tahoe trailer towing experience ?
Question:
I’ve been towing travel trailers for 14 years, 95% of it with an ‘88 Safari van. The Safari had an 111" wheelbase and had no stability problems with the 25 ft. trailer. Of course, I always paid close attention to the items I listed in my previous post. Also, the Safari had a very short rear overhang. The length of the overhang (the distance from the rear axle to the hitch ball) is important for stability. The longer the overhang, the longer the tail is that wags the dog. A long wheelbase is desirable too, but a short overhang gives the trailer less leverage to exert on the tow vehicle. I’m pretty sure that a Suburban, for instance, has a longer rear overhang than my Yukon, as well as a longer wheelbase. A ‘burb would probably be a more stable tow vehicle, but I don’t think it would be a huge improvement over my Yukon, at least not when towing my 25 footer or a smaller trailer. As far as opinions go, much of what I’ve stated I’ve gleaned from years of reading articles in such publications as Trailer Life magazine. Time after time the editors have told people who have had trailer sway trouble that there can be multiple factors contributing to it. I’ve just repeated what I read and what has worked for me.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing > issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into > longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify > this. It’s all about geometry. > These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off > experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s > mistakes than to learn from your own. :-) > I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer. I > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix. I had no sway problems > (aside from the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > headwind near Barstow CA. I do use a sway control and keep it cranked > down, > though. I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > enough air in the tires, not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > > Tom, > > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > sidewalled, > > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > made > > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > settled > > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > since > > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > yours > > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > ride > > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT > with > it > > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > > Best of luck, > > Kevin > > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > 2001, > > > or 2002 Chevy Tahoe ? I mean a pop-up camping trailer. I know the > > > towing capacity is high. But my question is about other factors like, > > > have you experienced sway? Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > > Thanks > > > Tom Klingler > > > Ohio > > > —
Response:
Try trailerlife.com for vehicle tow ratings. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> No one has mentioned weight of any of these trailers, and since we’ve been out > searching for a camper this spring, we’re finding quite a variance in weight of > trailers of the same length. > Where is a good site to go to to for a list of trucks and their towing > capabilities? (we are in the truck market also) > My thoughts are a 1500 series should be capable of towing a 5500lb (dry weight) > camper, but once you get into the 6500lb (dry weight) you’d be better off moving > up to a 2500 series truck. Yes? No? > I prefer to have a little extra oomph, meaning, I’d prefer not to tow a 7000lb > camper with a vehicle that has a max capacity of 7000lbs. > Thanks; > Chris > The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing > issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into > longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify > this. It’s all about geometry. > These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off > experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s > mistakes than to learn from your own. :-) > > I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer. I > > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix. I had no sway problems > > (aside from the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > > headwind near Barstow CA. I do use a sway control and keep it cranked > down, > > though. I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > > enough air in the tires, not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > > > Tom, > > > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > > > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > > sidewalled, > > > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > > made > > > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > > > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > > settled > > > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > > since > > > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > > > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > > > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > > > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > > yours > > > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > > ride > > > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT > with > > it > > > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > > > Best of luck, > > > Kevin > > > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > > 2001, > > > > or 2002 Chevy Tahoe ? I mean a pop-up camping trailer. I know the > > > > towing capacity is high. But my question is about other factors like, > > > > have you experienced sway? Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > > > Thanks > > > > Tom Klingler > > > > Ohio > > > > —
Response:
No one has mentioned weight of any of these trailers, and since we’ve been out searching for a camper this spring, we’re finding quite a variance in weight of trailers of the same length. Where is a good site to go to to for a list of trucks and their towing capabilities? (we are in the truck market also) My thoughts are a 1500 series should be capable of towing a 5500lb (dry weight) camper, but once you get into the 6500lb (dry weight) you’d be better off moving up to a 2500 series truck. Yes? No? I prefer to have a little extra oomph, meaning, I’d prefer not to tow a 7000lb camper with a vehicle that has a max capacity of 7000lbs. Thanks; Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing > issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into > longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify > this. It’s all about geometry. > These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off > experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s > mistakes than to learn from your own. :-) > I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer. I > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix. I had no sway problems > (aside from the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > headwind near Barstow CA. I do use a sway control and keep it cranked > down, > though. I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > enough air in the tires, not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > > Tom, > > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > sidewalled, > > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > made > > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > settled > > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > since > > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > yours > > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > ride > > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT > with > it > > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > > Best of luck, > > Kevin > > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > 2001, > > > or 2002 Chevy Tahoe ? I mean a pop-up camping trailer. I know the > > > towing capacity is high. But my question is about other factors like, > > > have you experienced sway? Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > > Thanks > > > Tom Klingler > > > Ohio > > > —
Response:
The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify this. It’s all about geometry. These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s mistakes than to learn from your own. :-)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer. I > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix. I had no sway problems > (aside from the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > headwind near Barstow CA. I do use a sway control and keep it cranked down, > though. I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > enough air in the tires, not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > Tom, > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > sidewalled, > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > made > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > settled > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > since > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > yours > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > ride > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT with > it > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > Best of luck, > Kevin > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > 2001, > > or 2002 Chevy Tahoe ? I mean a pop-up camping trailer. I know the > > towing capacity is high. But my question is about other factors like, > > have you experienced sway? Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > Thanks > > Tom Klingler > > Ohio > > —
Response:
I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer. I just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix. I had no sway problems (aside from the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty headwind near Barstow CA. I do use a sway control and keep it cranked down, though. I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping enough air in the tires, not loading the trailer so there is sufficient tongue weight, or a combination of these factors.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tom, > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft sidewalled, > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it made > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This settled > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft since > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas yours > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the ride > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT with it > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > Best of luck, > Kevin > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, 2001, > or 2002 Chevy Tahoe ? I mean a pop-up camping trailer. I know the > towing capacity is high. But my question is about other factors like, > have you experienced sway? Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > Thanks > Tom Klingler > Ohio > —
Response:
Yes Mark, ‘Autroride’ does include the autoleveling system. Sorry I was not clear on that. HOWEVER, and I am not sure about all Tahoes, But All GMC Yukons and Yukon XLs have the autoleveling system as standard equipment. I think this started sometime in the 2001 model run. Jerry H. — JHH
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sorry Jerry, AutoRide DOES INCLUDE ACTIVE AUTOMATIC REAR LEVELING – > get with the program. > For 1/2 tons (at least) such as Tahoe and Yukon: > – AutoRide has "active" automatic rear leveling plus other real-time > suspension controls/actions. > – Premium Ride has "passive" automatic rear leveling without the > real-time stuff. > http://www.gmc.com/owners/meet_engineers.html > "The standard suspension
