FS – Aluminum Allow takeoffs

Question:

Don’t have a picture.  They are spotless, as stated only about 900 miles, just enough to get home from Phoenix and order new ones.   Where are you located?  A trip to see them woud be very worthwhile. New ones from dealer cost about $500 each wheel alone.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->sorry, what about a pic? > how much?  with and without the tires? > > Taken from a 2002 Yukon, 6 hole, 16 Inch, fit Chevy or GMC. > > Includes 265 70 R16 tires with about 900 miles.  Firestone Wilderness > > LE > > 4 in all. > > In Central Arizona, no shipping available

Response:

how much?  with and without the tires?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Taken from a 2002 Yukon, 6 hole, 16 Inch, fit Chevy or GMC. > Includes 265 70 R16 tires with about 900 miles.  Firestone Wilderness > LE > 4 in all. > In Central Arizona, no shipping available

Response:

sorry, what about a pic?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> how much?  with and without the tires? > Taken from a 2002 Yukon, 6 hole, 16 Inch, fit Chevy or GMC. > Includes 265 70 R16 tires with about 900 miles.  Firestone Wilderness > LE > 4 in all. > In Central Arizona, no shipping available

Response:

Taken from a 2002 Yukon, 6 hole, 16 Inch, fit Chevy or GMC. Includes 265 70 R16 tires with about 900 miles.  Firestone Wilderness LE 4 in all. In Central Arizona, no shipping available

Response:

Forgot to mention  $400 for all – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Taken from a 2002 Yukon, 6 hole, 16 Inch, fit Chevy or GMC. >Includes 265 70 R16 tires with about 900 miles.  Firestone Wilderness >LE >4 in all. >In Central Arizona, no shipping available

Response:

GMC suburban sagging

Question:

oops…I meant to ask if the truck was sagging more on the left-hand (drivers side) than the RIGHT?  Sorry. MDH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is the truck sagging on the left-hand (drivers side) side more than > the left?  It is common for these trucks to sag some on the left hand > side due to the placement of the spare tire (inside on the left rear). >  My ‘90 burb sags 3/4" on the driver’s side.  A good buddy of mine has > a ‘89 GMC and his also sags 3/4" on the driver’s side.  You can have > the springs re-arched, but they will eventually sag again.  If you > want to invest the money, find a spring shop – you might be able to > get a set fabricated that will sometimes be heavier duty than your > factory set. > hi, > I have a GMC suburban 1500, 1989 model. The truck is sagging at rear, I > have noticed same problem with other trucks of same model and year. > Changing  shocks helped a little bit but sagging is still there. My > question is: > 1. Is is because of bad leaf springs? > 2. Can I use same leaf springs as in 1991 suburbans for my 1989 model? > (available used that’s why). > 3. I have heard some places heat treat these springs and make them good > again. Has anyone tried this? and is it worth it? > I would appreictae any help and suggestions. > humayun

Response:

Is the truck sagging on the left-hand (drivers side) side more than the left?  It is common for these trucks to sag some on the left hand side due to the placement of the spare tire (inside on the left rear).  My ‘90 burb sags 3/4" on the driver’s side.  A good buddy of mine has a ‘89 GMC and his also sags 3/4" on the driver’s side.  You can have the springs re-arched, but they will eventually sag again.  If you want to invest the money, find a spring shop – you might be able to get a set fabricated that will sometimes be heavier duty than your factory set. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hi, > I have a GMC suburban 1500, 1989 model. The truck is sagging at rear, I > have noticed same problem with other trucks of same model and year. > Changing  shocks helped a little bit but sagging is still there. My > question is: > 1. Is is because of bad leaf springs? > 2. Can I use same leaf springs as in 1991 suburbans for my 1989 model? > (available used that’s why). > 3. I have heard some places heat treat these springs and make them good > again. Has anyone tried this? and is it worth it? > I would appreictae any help and suggestions. > humayun

Response:

Lift up the carpeting and take a good look at the rear corners of the truck. The place where the body sits and is welded to the cross piece has a tendency to rust and allow the rear part of the body to sag. I had to fabricate a new cross piece for my 87 K5. It took most of a 3-day weekend to do it. I also welded in a new section of real floor while I was at it. — You don’t shoot to kill. You shoot to stay alive.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hi, > I have a GMC suburban 1500, 1989 model. The truck is sagging at rear, I > have noticed same problem with other trucks of same model and year. > Changing  shocks helped a little bit but sagging is still there. My > question is: > 1. Is is because of bad leaf springs? > 2. Can I use same leaf springs as in 1991 suburbans for my 1989 model? > (available used that’s why). > 3. I have heard some places heat treat these springs and make them good > again. Has anyone tried this? and is it worth it? > I would appreictae any help and suggestions. > humayun

Response:

> hi, > I have a GMC suburban 1500, 1989 model. The truck is sagging at rear, I > have noticed same problem with other trucks of same model and year. > Changing  shocks helped a little bit but sagging is still there. My > question is: > 1. Is is because of bad leaf springs? > 2. Can I use same leaf springs as in 1991 suburbans for my 1989 model? > (available used that’s why). > 3. I have heard some places heat treat these springs and make them good > again. Has anyone tried this? and is it worth it? > I would appreictae any help and suggestions. > humayun

Shocks do not help sagging.  Shocks help control the bounce and smooth out the ride.  Any perceived help was nothing but perception.  The springs are the only thing that help sagging and yes, they need to be replaced. You can heat treat them but they won’t meet factory specs.  You can put add a leafs on but they won’t meet factory specs.  Go to the junk yards and see if you can find the ones for your truck.  And I believe the 91’s will work…they did use different rear ends for different applications, but I believe the springs did not change…but verify that first. HH

Response:

hi, I have a GMC suburban 1500, 1989 model. The truck is sagging at rear, I have noticed same problem with other trucks of same model and year. Changing  shocks helped a little bit but sagging is still there. My question is: 1. Is is because of bad leaf springs? 2. Can I use same leaf springs as in 1991 suburbans for my 1989 model? (available used that’s why). 3. I have heard some places heat treat these springs and make them good again. Has anyone tried this? and is it worth it? I would appreictae any help and suggestions. humayun

Response:

> hi, > I have a GMC suburban 1500, 1989 model. The truck is sagging at rear, I > have noticed same problem with other trucks of same model and year. > Changing  shocks helped a little bit but sagging is still there. My > question is: > 1. Is is because of bad leaf springs? > 2. Can I use same leaf springs as in 1991 suburbans for my 1989 model? > (available used that’s why). > 3. I have heard some places heat treat these springs and make them good > again. Has anyone tried this? and is it worth it? > I would appreictae any help and suggestions. > humayun

Just whip out your J.C. Whitney catalog or look them up on the net www.jcwhitney.com  and order yourself some helper leafs or helper springs. D_Hawg 99 Burb 01 Yukon

Response:

tahoe trailer towing experience ?

Question:

I’ve been towing travel trailers for 14 years, 95% of it with an ‘88 Safari van.  The Safari had an 111" wheelbase and had no stability problems with the 25 ft. trailer. Of course, I always paid close attention to the items I listed in my previous post.  Also, the Safari had a very short rear overhang.  The length of the overhang (the distance from the rear axle to the hitch ball) is important for stability.  The longer the overhang, the longer the tail is that wags the dog.  A long wheelbase is desirable too, but a short overhang gives the trailer less leverage to exert on the tow vehicle.  I’m pretty sure that a Suburban, for instance, has a longer rear overhang than my Yukon, as well as a longer wheelbase.  A ‘burb would probably be a more stable tow vehicle, but I don’t think it would be a huge improvement over my Yukon, at least not when towing my 25 footer or a smaller trailer. As far as opinions go, much of what I’ve stated I’ve gleaned from years of reading articles in such publications as Trailer Life magazine.  Time after time the editors have told people who have had trailer sway trouble that there can be multiple factors contributing to it.  I’ve just repeated what I read and what has worked for me.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing > issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into > longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify > this. It’s all about geometry. > These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off > experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s > mistakes than to learn from your own.  :-) > I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer.  I > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix.  I had no sway problems > (aside from  the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > headwind near Barstow CA.  I do use a sway control and keep it cranked > down, > though.  I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > enough air in the tires,  not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > > Tom, > > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > sidewalled, > > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > made > > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > settled > > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > since > > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > yours > > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > ride > > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT > with > it > > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > > Best of luck, > > Kevin > > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > 2001, > > > or 2002  Chevy Tahoe ?   I mean a pop-up camping trailer.   I know the > > > towing capacity is high.  But my question is about other factors like, > > > have you experienced sway?  Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > > Thanks > > > Tom Klingler > > > Ohio > > > —

Response:

Try trailerlife.com for vehicle tow ratings. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> No one has mentioned weight of any of these trailers, and since we’ve been out > searching for a camper this spring, we’re finding quite a variance in weight of > trailers of the same length. > Where is a good site to go to to for a list of trucks and their towing > capabilities? (we are in the truck market also) > My thoughts are a 1500 series should be capable of towing a 5500lb (dry weight) > camper, but once you get into the 6500lb (dry weight) you’d be better off moving > up to a 2500 series truck. Yes? No? > I prefer to have a little extra oomph, meaning, I’d prefer not to tow a 7000lb > camper with a vehicle that has a max capacity of 7000lbs. > Thanks; > Chris > The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing > issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into > longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify > this. It’s all about geometry. > These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off > experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s > mistakes than to learn from your own.  :-) > > I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer. I > > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix.  I had no sway problems > > (aside from  the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > > headwind near Barstow CA.  I do use a sway control and keep it cranked > down, > > though.  I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > > enough air in the tires,  not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > > > Tom, > > > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > > > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > > sidewalled, > > > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > > made > > > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > > > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > > settled > > > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > > since > > > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > > > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > > > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > > > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > > yours > > > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > > ride > > > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT > with > > it > > > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > > > Best of luck, > > > Kevin > > > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > > 2001, > > > > or 2002  Chevy Tahoe ?   I mean a pop-up camping trailer.   I know the > > > > towing capacity is high.  But my question is about other factors like, > > > > have you experienced sway?  Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > > > Thanks > > > > Tom Klingler > > > > Ohio > > > > —

Response:

No one has mentioned weight of any of these trailers, and since we’ve been out searching for a camper this spring, we’re finding quite a variance in weight of trailers of the same length. Where is a good site to go to to for a list of trucks and their towing capabilities? (we are in the truck market also) My thoughts are a 1500 series should be capable of towing a 5500lb (dry weight) camper, but once you get into the 6500lb (dry weight) you’d be better off moving up to a 2500 series truck. Yes? No? I prefer to have a little extra oomph, meaning, I’d prefer not to tow a 7000lb camper with a vehicle that has a max capacity of 7000lbs. Thanks; Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing > issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into > longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify > this. It’s all about geometry. > These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off > experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s > mistakes than to learn from your own.  :-) > I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer.  I > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix.  I had no sway problems > (aside from  the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > headwind near Barstow CA.  I do use a sway control and keep it cranked > down, > though.  I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > enough air in the tires,  not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > > Tom, > > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > sidewalled, > > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > made > > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > settled > > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > since > > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > yours > > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > ride > > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT > with > it > > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > > Best of luck, > > Kevin > > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > 2001, > > > or 2002  Chevy Tahoe ?   I mean a pop-up camping trailer.   I know the > > > towing capacity is high.  But my question is about other factors like, > > > have you experienced sway?  Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > > Thanks > > > Tom Klingler > > > Ohio > > > —

Response:

The items you noted at the bottom of your post do contribute to towing issues, BUT the length of the wheelbase is a huge factor when you get into longer trailers. Anyone with a lot of time towing behind them will certify this. It’s all about geometry. These are all opinions and worth what you pay for them, but I’ll sponge off experience any day! ‘Tis cheaper in the long run to learn from another’s mistakes than to learn from your own.  :-)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer.  I > just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix.  I had no sway problems > (aside from  the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty > headwind near Barstow CA.  I do use a sway control and keep it cranked down, > though.  I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. > IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not > using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping > enough air in the tires,  not loading the trailer so there is sufficient > tongue weight, or a combination of these factors. > Tom, > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft > sidewalled, > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it > made > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This > settled > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft > since > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas > yours > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the > ride > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT with > it > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > Best of luck, > Kevin > > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, > 2001, > > or 2002  Chevy Tahoe ?   I mean a pop-up camping trailer.   I know the > > towing capacity is high.  But my question is about other factors like, > > have you experienced sway?  Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > > Thanks > > Tom Klingler > > Ohio > > —

Response:

I have a ‘99 Yukon 4×2 and tow a 25 ft. Wanderer Lite travel trailer.  I just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Phoenix.  I had no sway problems (aside from  the usual anoyance when a truck passes) even in a nasty headwind near Barstow CA.  I do use a sway control and keep it cranked down, though.  I think better than stock shocks would be a plus, too. IMO, most of the problems people have with sway when towing are due to not using a sway control, not using a load distributing hitch, not keeping enough air in the tires,  not loading the trailer so there is sufficient tongue weight, or a combination of these factors.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tom, > I had a ‘95 Yukon, essentially the same thing you are asking about. It > shipped with "P" rated tires. They are much to swishy, read soft sidewalled, > for towing. I switched it over to LTs when they were ready to go and it made > a world of difference. I also had to swap the rear shocks out for Monroe > LoadLeveler shocks and the fronts for Monroe Sensatrak shocks. This settled > the bouncing down with the extra weight. The rear was just a bit soft since > they don’t have as many leafs as the Suburbans. > We pulled a 2,700 lbs. pop-up with it over a 3,500 mile trip through the > mountains of Tennessee and the flats of Texas without any problems. It > averaged 12.5 MPG on 87 octane. That one had the TB Injection whereas yours > has the Vortec. As long as you have LT rated tires, you should find the ride > very nice with a pop-up. I am not sure I would want to pull a 25′ TT with it > though as you start getting into the shorter wheelbase issues. > Best of luck, > Kevin > Anyone care to share real-world trailer towing experience with 2000, 2001, > or 2002  Chevy Tahoe ?   I mean a pop-up camping trailer.   I know the > towing capacity is high.  But my question is about other factors like, > have you experienced sway?  Is the "Autoride" suspension worth it? > Thanks > Tom Klingler > Ohio > —

Response:

Yes Mark, ‘Autroride’ does include the autoleveling system.  Sorry I was not clear on that.  HOWEVER, and I am not sure about all Tahoes, But All GMC Yukons and Yukon XLs have the autoleveling system as standard equipment.  I think this started sometime in the 2001 model run. Jerry H. — JHH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sorry Jerry, AutoRide DOES INCLUDE ACTIVE AUTOMATIC REAR LEVELING – > get with the program. > For 1/2 tons (at least) such as Tahoe and Yukon: > – AutoRide has "active" automatic rear leveling plus other real-time > suspension controls/actions. > – Premium Ride has "passive" automatic rear leveling without the > real-time stuff. > http://www.gmc.com/owners/meet_engineers.html > "The standard suspension

Door Ajar Light

Question:

I recently took my ‘99 GMC Yukon in for service due to the ‘Service Engine Soon’ idiot light came on.   They SAID they’d fixed the problem BUT …. I didn’t even make it off the lot before it had come back on agian.  So, of course, I took it back for a second attempt to remedy the ‘Light’.   They had it fixed, agian, later that afternoon. My question is:  Did they just disable the ‘Service engine soon’ light since it’s probably just an emissions problem that is not checked in my state for inspetions?  They reason I am curious is that there is no ‘Door ajar’ idiot light on my console.  SHOULD THERE BE ONE ON THE ‘99 Yukon? Does anyone follow this idiotic resoning? CBE — MSN, AIM, & Yahoo Chat: Ten77EMT                   ICq: 136258710

Response:

You don’t mention mileage, and I am not sure it works the same still, but the service engine light used to come on every 15000 miles on an old Plymouth Arrow my wife owned.  It was tied to the mileage and unless there was a problem with the engine never came on except at 15,000 mile intervals. The mechanic would reach up behind the dash and reset it after they did a basic engine service. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently took my ‘99 GMC Yukon in for service due to the ‘Service Engine > Soon’ idiot light came on.   They SAID they’d fixed the problem BUT …. I > didn’t even make it off the lot before it had come back on agian.  So, of > course, I took it back for a second attempt to remedy the ‘Light’.   They > had it fixed, agian, later that afternoon. > My question is:  Did they just disable the ‘Service engine soon’ light since > it’s probably just an emissions problem that is not checked in my state for > inspetions?  They reason I am curious is that there is no ‘Door ajar’ idiot > light on my console.  SHOULD THERE BE ONE ON THE ‘99 Yukon? > Does anyone follow this idiotic resoning? > CBE > — > MSN, AIM, & Yahoo Chat: Ten77EMT >                   ICq: 136258710

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I recently took my ‘99 GMC Yukon in for service due to the ‘Service Engine > Soon’ idiot light came on.   They SAID they’d fixed the problem BUT …. I > didn’t even make it off the lot before it had come back on agian.  So, of > course, I took it back for a second attempt to remedy the ‘Light’.   They > had it fixed, agian, later that afternoon. > My question is:  Did they just disable the ‘Service engine soon’ light since > it’s probably just an emissions problem that is not checked in my state for > inspetions?  They reason I am curious is that there is no ‘Door ajar’ idiot > light on my console.  SHOULD THERE BE ONE ON THE ‘99 Yukon? > Does anyone follow this idiotic resoning? > CBE > — > MSN, AIM, & Yahoo Chat: Ten77EMT >                   ICq: 136258710

If you have a reputable mechanic they may very well have fixed the problem and forgot to reset the light, or there was a second problem they needed to take care of masked by the first.  I’d ask your mechanic what was up.

Response:

yukon running board question

Question:

Just bought a 2002 2wd GMC Yukon.  We really love the thing but my wife has a little bit of trouble climbing up into it and I’m starting to wish I had bought one with running board trim on it.  Any suggestions or recommendations as to whether I should talk to the dealer or look for any aftermarket product? Anybody gone through this on a Yukon or Tahoe? Thanks, Tony

Response:

"rking" wrote > Just bought a 2002 2wd GMC Yukon.  We really love the thing but my wife has > a little bit of trouble climbing up into it and I’m starting to wish I had > bought one with running board trim on it.  Any suggestions or > recommendations as to whether I should talk to the dealer or look for any > aftermarket product? Anybody gone through this on a Yukon or Tahoe?

I’ve installed a few of the factory running boards when doing PDI’s on these vehicle’s.  The factory boards fit perfectly, and the body has all the hardware built right on to the inner sill for attaching the boards. I can’t comment on what the price difference would be, but almost certainly the factory boards will look as good or better then after market.  If you have factory rear a/c, the board on the right side is a bit more work, you just have to remove 4 small nuts that hold the a/c hoses to the body and pry them out a wee bit in order to slide the brackets under the hoses. Ian

Response:

> I’ve installed a few of the factory running boards when doing PDI’s on > these vehicle’s.  The factory boards fit perfectly, and the body has all > the hardware built right on to the inner sill for attaching the boards. > I can’t comment on what the price difference would be, but almost > certainly the factory boards will look as good or better then after > market.  If you have factory rear a/c, the board on the right side is > a bit more work, you just have to remove 4 small nuts that hold > the a/c hoses to the body and pry them out a wee bit in order to > slide the brackets under the hoses. > Ian

Thanks for the reply.  Any rough idea what the factory running boards cost? Tony

Response:

"rking"  wrote > Thanks for the reply.  Any rough idea what the factory running boards

cost? That I don’t know.  All of the Yukon’s I’ve seen come from the factory with them.  I’ll bet they are pricey though. Ian

Response:

>Thanks for the reply.  Any rough idea what the factory running boards cost?

If you want to put them on yourself and want to order them online, you can get a good price at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com I don’t know how much the shipping will add to it, but the boards themselves are considerably cheaper than from a dealer.  You do need to know the specific GM part number, however.   That’s because the search function on that website has not been updated to 2002.  However, if you do know the part number and plug the part number into the website, the part WILL come up. If instead of running boards, you want to consider nerf bars (side step bars), you can get those in black, chrome, or stainless steel, you can also order those online from truck accessory websites, or in person at accessory retail stores, or O’Reilly Auto Parts can get them for you. They are supposedly easy to mount.  If you want to see some: http://www.manik.com http://www.westin.com http://www.boards4less.com Good luck. RD

Response:

GMC Yukon or Chev Tahoe?

Question:

Whats the difference between the two?

Response:

Exterior trim, wheels, and the way the options are packaged.  The drivetrains, frames, interiors, etc. are the same.  The rest is just personal preference.  Which do you like the looks of the best?  You cannot get them optioned "exactly" the same; the option packages are different, even though slightly.  Hope this helps. Jerry H. — JHH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Whats the difference between the two?

Response:

> Whats the difference between the two?

ask the dealership.

Response:

Thanks. Thats pretty much what I thought. I just wanted to be sure. Today I like the Yukon best. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Exterior trim, wheels, and the way the options are packaged.  The > drivetrains, frames, interiors, etc. are the same.  The rest is just > personal preference.  Which do you like the looks of the best?  You cannot > get them optioned "exactly" the same; the option packages are different, > even though slightly.  Hope this helps. > Jerry H. > — > JHH > Whats the difference between the two?

Response:

Wow! YOu are a genius. Why didnt I think of that!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Whats the difference between the two? > ask the dealership.

Response:

The Spelling

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Whats the difference between the two?

Response:

Thats probably fairly accurate

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The Spelling > Whats the difference between the two?

Response:

Arbitration

Question:

Who would I contact to begin arbitration to have my 2001 Yukon Denali bought back by GMC? Can anyone with experience in something like this lend assistance. — Thanks, JimM

Response:

The BBB in your area will set this up for you.

> Who would I contact to begin arbitration to have my 2001 Yukon Denali > bought back by GMC? Can anyone with experience in something like this > lend assistance. > — > Thanks, > JimM

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

You might also check to see if your state has a lemon law. The arbitration process should be outline in the back of your owner’s manual.  It is in my 98 Pont. TransSport manual – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The BBB in your area will set this up for you. > Who would I contact to begin arbitration to have my 2001 Yukon Denali > bought back by GMC? Can anyone with experience in something like this > lend assistance. > — > Thanks, > JimM > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

99 yukon/tahoe clunk

Question:

GM recommends the PTFE Grease, However I found that adding  Tuffoil to the Txfer case oil ( according to the instructions) has the same affect. It appears that the Txfer case output shaft ( the later version 96+ ) binds with the drive line yoke. Tuffoil $9 Martin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> mks, > Mobil 1 universal synthetic grease cured the problem once and for all > with my Suburban. > Dean >My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping >and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s >in the differential. >U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output >shaft and the driveshaft. >Manually by hand it slides good. > I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today >it’s back. >It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then >goes back when accelerating. >Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

Response:

Hello- I bought a new 99 Tahoe, and remember a clunk at about 17000 miles- took it in, sevice dept. wrote on the repair order- checked suspension and body mounts, noise seems to be coming from driveline, flushed transfer case per bulletin and installed new fluid per bulletin 990421004. Had another problem at 7000 miles, noise in driveline when slowing down- repair was- remove driveshaft, cleaned splines lubed spline, reinstall and roadtest. After both those, the noises/clunks/etc went away. Hope this helps. Carl – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What exactly do you need?  Looks like you found the TSB alright, there > are at least 2 listed on www.alldatadiy.com (I only have access to > titles) with the word "clunk" in the title, both numbers I found are > listed in your post.  Take it to the dealer and ask them to perform the > TSB… >NOTE: >IF anyone can get me the TSB listed below, I would be thankful.  Post >to here please. >Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be >confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin >Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile >47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) >Driveline Clunk >File In Section: 04 – Driveline Axle >Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002 >INFORMATION >Driveline Clunk >Models: >2000 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models >This bulletin is being revised to update the models section and add >information to the Important statement. Please discard Corporate >Bulletin Number 56-44-O1A (Section 4 – Drive Axle and Section 7 – >Transmission). >Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be >confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin >Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile >47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, >described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004. >Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions >may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting >between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. >Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual >transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise >while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then >released. >Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, >there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in >order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay >(also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the >gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of >rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more >freeplay the total system will have. >The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a >buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline. >For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a >4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. >This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, >the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), >the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated >clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline. >In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair >driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons: >^ Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one >individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the >added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline >components. >Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount >of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a >satisfactory lash reduction. >^ While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will >not adversely affect durability or performance. > — > Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ# is 8023912 or, > * Send me E-mail Express directly to my computer screen

> Download ICQ at http://www.icq.com/download/ > For adding similar signatures to your e-mail go to:

http://www.icq.com/email/emailsig.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Next question. Will it eventually hurt anything if the part is not replaced? Thanks! Kevin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is a TSB for a nickel plate slip yoke for this problem, see: > http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/bulletins/01-04-17-004.html > : My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when > stopping > : and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s > : in the differential. > : U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans > output > : shaft and the driveshaft. > : Manually by hand it slides good. > :  I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today > : it’s back. > : It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then > : goes back when accelerating. > : Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure? > : > : > :

Response:

What exactly do you need?  Looks like you found the TSB alright, there are at least 2 listed on www.alldatadiy.com (I only have access to titles) with the word "clunk" in the title, both numbers I found are listed in your post.  Take it to the dealer and ask them to perform the TSB… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >NOTE: >IF anyone can get me the TSB listed below, I would be thankful.  Post >to here please. >Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be >confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin >Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile >47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) >Driveline Clunk >File In Section: 04 – Driveline Axle >Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002 >INFORMATION >Driveline Clunk >Models: >2000 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models >This bulletin is being revised to update the models section and add >information to the Important statement. Please discard Corporate >Bulletin Number 56-44-O1A (Section 4 – Drive Axle and Section 7 – >Transmission). >Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be >confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin >Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile >47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, >described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004. >Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions >may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting >between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. >Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual >transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise >while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then >released. >Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, >there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in >order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay >(also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the >gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of >rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more >freeplay the total system will have. >The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a >buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline. >For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a >4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. >This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, >the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), >the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated >clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline. >In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair >driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons: >^ Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one >individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the >added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline >components. >Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount >of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a >satisfactory lash reduction. >^ While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will >not adversely affect durability or performance.

– Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ# is 8023912 or, Download ICQ at http://www.icq.com/download/ For adding similar signatures to your e-mail go to: http://www.icq.com/email/emailsig.html

Response:

NOTE: IF anyone can get me the TSB listed below, I would be thankful.  Post to here please. Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) Driveline Clunk File In Section: 04 – Driveline Axle Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002 INFORMATION Driveline Clunk Models: 2000 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models This bulletin is being revised to update the models section and add information to the Important statement. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 56-44-O1A (Section 4 – Drive Axle and Section 7 – Transmission). Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004. Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released. Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have. The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline. For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline. In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons: ^ Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction. ^ While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.

Response:

There’s a TSB on this exact issue from what I recall.  Something about the fluid in the t-case, not 100% sure though… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Perhaps you want to look at the suspension instead.  A sticky shock or a >torsion bar or maybe a spring.  Look at everything.  I test drove a truck a >99 Tahoe and didn’t buy it for that very reason.  I never found what was >causing it.  It really sounded  to me like a suspension issue. U-joints >usually have a ringy, tinny, bell, sound to them, this was a dull thump. >Hope it helps. >My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when >stopping >and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s >in the differential. >U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans >output >shaft and the driveshaft. >Manually by hand it slides good. > I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today >it’s back. >It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then >goes back when accelerating. >Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

– Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ# is 8023912 or, Download ICQ at http://www.icq.com/download/ For adding similar signatures to your e-mail go to: http://www.icq.com/email/emailsig.html

Response:

mks, Mobil 1 universal synthetic grease cured the problem once and for all with my Suburban. Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping >and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s >in the differential. >U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output >shaft and the driveshaft. >Manually by hand it slides good. > I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today >it’s back. >It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then >goes back when accelerating. >Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

Response:

Is it in 4×4 mode or 2 wheel drive.  Could be the transfer case if in 4×4 mode or the switch that puts it in 4×4 mode.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping > and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s > in the differential. > U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output > shaft and the driveshaft. > Manually by hand it slides good. >  I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today > it’s back. > It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then > goes back when accelerating. > Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

Response:

Perhaps you want to look at the suspension instead.  A sticky shock or a torsion bar or maybe a spring.  Look at everything.  I test drove a truck a 99 Tahoe and didn’t buy it for that very reason.  I never found what was causing it.  It really sounded  to me like a suspension issue. U-joints usually have a ringy, tinny, bell, sound to them, this was a dull thump. Hope it helps.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping > and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s > in the differential. > U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output > shaft and the driveshaft. > Manually by hand it slides good. >  I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today > it’s back. > It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then > goes back when accelerating. > Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

Response:

There is a TSB for a nickel plate slip yoke for this problem, see: http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/bulletins/01-04-17-004.html

: My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping : and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s : in the differential. : U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output : shaft and the driveshaft. : Manually by hand it slides good. :  I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today : it’s back. : It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then : goes back when accelerating. : Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure? : : :

Response:

My ‘99 Suburban has always done this and my ‘95 Yukon does it a bit as well. The Yukon had grease put in the yoke while under warranty. This fixed it for a while and then it started maybe six months later. Hasn’t hurt a thing and I haven’t been concerned enough to beat myself up trying to figure it out. It doesn’t cause any performance issues at all that I’ve seen.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping > and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s > in the differential. > U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output > shaft and the driveshaft. > Manually by hand it slides good. >  I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today > it’s back. > It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then > goes back when accelerating. > Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

Response:

My 99 Yukon 50,000 mi. [just bought it last month] has a clunk when stopping and accelerating from a stop.It’s coming from the rear. I don’t think it’s in the differential. U-joints check out good.I heard it could be the splines at the trans output shaft and the driveshaft. Manually by hand it slides good.  I lubed the shaft with clean grease—worked fine for 2 days–now today it’s back. It kind of feels like the rear end housing twists back when stopping then goes back when accelerating. Is anyone else having this problem? What’s the cure?

Response:

4×4 Front Axle lube problem!!

Question:

> Do you notice any leeks around your axils or pinion? If it can come out, it > can go in.

Matt, There don’t seem to be any big leaks..  Just a very small amount of oilness near the seals.   I had a suggestion that the axle areas don’t get drained well, and so I will try jacking the truck side to side on the next drain cycle. Actually my yard is plenty hilly; I can just move the truck on a good side slant, one side and then the other! Anyone have opinions on ‘flushing’… ??

Response:

Terry King might have said: > Do you notice any leeks around your axils or pinion? If it can come out, it > can go in. >Matt, There don’t seem to be any big leaks..  Just a very small amount >of oilness near the seals.  

seepage is not unusual. >I had a suggestion that the axle areas don’t get drained well,

true enough, if i could throw a ’some’ in there? >and so I >will try jacking the truck side to side on the next drain cycle.

hehehehe i do this sometimes, depending on what i’ve had to replace, or change. >Actually my yard is plenty hilly; I can just move the truck on a good >side slant, one side and then the other! >Anyone have opinions on ‘flushing’… ??

i don’t know from IFS Chevys, but if it was a solid axle i’d use twenty weight, and make sure the axle and flushing oil were both warm: driven and setting in the sun, respectively. i’d drive it about a mile or two and drain it, refill with twenty weight. lather, rinse, repeat. refill with recommended oil.

Response:

Have a 92 GMC Yukon, (full size – 4WD, Auto as stock) Last Winter had troubled getting front axle to engage (both heat-actuator and a later motor actuator). Lubricant was drained and replaced and the stuff that came out was very moisture-ridden, cream color.  Must have been in there 100K miles. Replaced lubricant, looked OK, actuated OK.  Found the breather tube hanging where it could have gotten road water, attached it up high in engine compartment. NOW, today I decided, before Winter, to check the lubricant. It’s badly fouled again!  Consistency, color of dirty cream. Still very slippery, but seems about 40 weight. YuKKK!!! Anybody else experienced this??  Any pointers or suggestions?? I just drained and replaced with standard 80W90.  But, should I try to flush this with something??  I can do this myself, and wouldn’t mind a couple flush cycles.  What would be good to flush WITH?? AT fluid?? Kerosene?? #20 motor oil??  I would expect to go run it for 5 miles or so, and drain it again… Hoping this rings a bell and someone else has dealt with this mess!!! I NEED this to work reliably this Winter or Walk… — Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Response:

Do you notice any leeks around your axils or pinion? If it can come out, it can go in. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have a 92 GMC Yukon, (full size – 4WD, Auto as stock) > Last Winter had troubled getting front axle to engage > (both heat-actuator and a later motor actuator). > Lubricant was drained and replaced and the stuff that > came out was very moisture-ridden, cream color.  Must have > been in there 100K miles. Replaced lubricant, looked OK, > actuated OK.  Found the breather tube hanging where it could > have gotten road water, attached it up high in engine > compartment. > NOW, today I decided, before Winter, to check the lubricant. > It’s badly fouled again!  Consistency, color of dirty > cream. Still very slippery, but seems about 40 weight. YuKKK!!! > Anybody else experienced this??  Any pointers or suggestions?? > I just drained and replaced with standard 80W90.  But, should > I try to flush this with something??  I can do this myself, and > wouldn’t mind a couple flush cycles.  What would be good to flush WITH?? > AT fluid?? Kerosene?? #20 motor oil??  I would expect to go run it for > 5 miles or so, and drain it again… > Hoping this rings a bell and someone else has dealt with this mess!!! > I NEED this to work reliably this Winter or Walk… > — > Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Response:

HELP!! GMC rear differential disassembly??

Question:

Dear Techies, I may be in big trouble here. Started to pull an axle on my 92 GMC Yukon (Semi-floating axles)with a leaking seal.  I need help in understanding what I’m seeing! This SHOULD be simple: 1. Remove the "differential pinion shaft lockscrew". 2. Remove the pinion shaft 3. Push in on the axle (into the space left by the    pinion shaft) 4. Remove the ‘C’ ring fron the axle end and pull it out. The "differential pinion shaft lockscrew" is the question: It is 5/16 NC thread, 5/16 hex head. It removed fairly easily with a 6" bar on a 1/4" socket.  But it’s only 3/8" long.  There is still a pin in place, retaining the pinion shaft.   What am I seeing here??  Is the lockscrew broken?? Is there a pin held in place by the screw I removed?   The screw I removed has 3/8" of 5/12 NC thread. The whole screw is dark black except a small shiny area  on the end. The end of the screw is not flat, but slightly concave. Can someone who has taken these apart, please tell me what I may be seeing?  What does this pin look like? Dimensions, threaded VS unthreaded etc… Pointer to a picture of one.. IF this is broken, any suggestions not involving self-destruction? I really need to get my one vehicle back on the road! Any trick methods to get a working axle seal without removing the axle??? THANKS for your help!!!!! — Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Response:

Sounds like the ‘lockscrew’ has been broken.  Not a biggie.  Spray carb or brake cleaner into the hole the piece came out of, liberally.  Turn the ring gear so the other piece can fall out, wiggle the ring gear forward and back, the broken piece ’should’ fall out. You should note that, if the ‘lockscrew’ has been broken, you have a problem in the gear carrier, or the shaft.  Also check the axle bearing for wear. Sorry, no other way to get to the seal.  Item last, the screw (as I remember), is probably an inch and a quarter. Best of luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear Techies, > I may be in big trouble here. Started to pull an axle > on my 92 GMC Yukon (Semi-floating axles)with a leaking > seal.  I need help in understanding what I’m seeing! > This SHOULD be simple: > 1. Remove the "differential pinion shaft lockscrew". > 2. Remove the pinion shaft > 3. Push in on the axle (into the space left by the >    pinion shaft) > 4. Remove the ‘C’ ring fron the axle end and pull it out. > The "differential pinion shaft lockscrew" is the question: > It is 5/16 NC thread, 5/16 hex head. It removed fairly > easily with a 6" bar on a 1/4" socket.  But it’s only > 3/8" long.  There is still a pin in place, retaining the > pinion shaft. > What am I seeing here??  Is the lockscrew broken?? Is there > a pin held in place by the screw I removed? > The screw I removed has 3/8" of 5/12 NC thread. The whole > screw is dark black except a small shiny area  on the end. > The end of the screw is not flat, but slightly concave. > Can someone who has taken these apart, please tell me what > I may be seeing?  What does this pin look like? Dimensions, > threaded VS unthreaded etc… Pointer to a picture of one.. > IF this is broken, any suggestions not involving self-destruction? > I really need to get my one vehicle back on the road! > Any trick methods to get a working axle seal without removing > the axle??? > THANKS for your help!!!!! > — > Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Response:

>Dear Techies, >I may be in big trouble here. Started to pull an axle >on my 92 GMC Yukon (Semi-floating axles)with a leaking >seal.  I need help in understanding what I’m seeing!

Yes, the screw is broken.  It should be 1 1/2" long or so with teh last inch being just plain(no threads). Unfortunatly, when these break, they usually leav about 1/2 a thread in the hole.  There are a couple of ways to remove it, involving torches, big-assed hammers and the like.  Snap-On even has a kit(there’s a surprise. huh?) including a loooong left handed drill bit.  But out in the back woods of Vermont, lacking special tools and the like, your best bet is probably to put the thing back together and let a shop mess with it. Wally Crow aka Big Daddy ‘74 Sporty chop ASE Master Auto Tech. Chevy Master Tech Y2K TOMKAT  SENS  BS#133

Response:

> Yes, the screw is broken.  It should be 1 1/2" long or so with teh > last inch being just plain(no threads). > Unfortunatly, when these break, they usually leav about 1/2 a thread > in the hole

OUCH!!! Can anyone put their hands on one of these screws, and tell me exactly how long the threaded portion is?? I may be able to use a screw extractor, but I’d really like to know how much left in the hole is threaded… Thanks!

Response: