Category: GMC Yukon

Body Lift Kit Recommendation?

Question:

Hello Need a recommendation for a 3-4" body lift on a 2002 GMC Yukon XL 4X4 Thanks

Response:

> Hello > Need a recommendation for a 3-4" body lift on a 2002 GMC Yukon XL 4X4 > Thanks

my recommendation would be to get a 4" suspension lift, but if you must use a body lift then keep it as low as possible.  You dont want to stretch your hoses and things too much and if you get in even a minor accident having the body so much higher can cause nasty things to happen like the mounts coming loose.

Response:

    Go with a suspension lift ONLY! If you want to install bigger tires and need the clearance for off roading, your stock suspension might not be what you want. If you are only going for looks, not much looks worse than a gap between the body and frame, misaligned bumpers, a hacked up fan shroud(not to mention it drastically hinders cooling), and the massive amount of frame that will be showing. Spend the money on a suspension lift, or go with a little bit smaller tire.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello > Need a recommendation for a 3-4" body lift on a 2002 GMC Yukon XL 4X4 > Thanks

Response:

Headlight kit Question

Question:

Daniel,         A generic relay is just a switch.  A coil in the relay flips the switch, electromagnetically.  Hook a hot wire to one side of the relay coil.  Hook the "ground" line from your headlight switch to the other side of the coil.  Then, when the coil is grounded by you setting the headlight switch ON, it "fires" the relay.  That causes the "normally open" contacts (poles) to connect, just like any switch does.         Now the relay can connect your headlights to ground through those "active" contacts, just as your headlight switch did.  Hook one side of the active contacts to ground.  Hook the other side to the *headlights* ground wire (that once went to the headlight switch).  Now your headlight switch grounds the relay coil, not the headlights.  The headlights will be fed ground by the relay contacts, when the coil fires, and "switches" the relay ON.         Use one relay for high beams, and another one for low beams.  Just wire up the relay coils as if they were your headlights, and let the relay contacts turn on your lights.         The huge advantage here is that a relay coil draws *much* less power than headlights do, so your headlight switch will probably outlast the truck now.  The heavy current needed for the headlights only goes through the active relay contacts.  A relay is *much* cheaper than a new headlight switch; if it ever does go bad, you can easily change it yourself.         The headlight relay for any car or truck that uses headlight relays, stock, is going to be fine.  Any 12 Vdc "holding relay" would do it for you, though.  Whatever you choose, make sure that you record the Part Number and manufacturer’s address in your vehicle records.         It is a common electrical practice to control huge current flows, using only a cheap little switch, by using the cheap switch to control a relay that can handle the huge current loads. Cheers, Red Replies will bounce, unless you remove the letter A from my email address. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am also trying to get the 4 beam setup running, There is a big problem in > my eyes because GM uses ground switching for the headlights… > if you turn on the low beams and measure the voltage, both low and hi beams > have 12vdc supplied, but only the low beams have a true ground, the hi beams > ground wire is floating…. and that switches when the hi beams come on….. > I was planning on using a relay….. now what do I use!!!! > Let me know if you get yours working…… > I will update if I find a solution….. > Daniel > I have a 2001 Tahoe and my question is this. I am thinking of buying a > High > 4 Quad Beam Kit for my suv so I can run Hi and Low beams at the same time. > the instructions are vague they tell you to find the wiring harness for > the > headlights and harness should be located near driver side fender. I don’t > want to cut anything but I can’t find it…obviously it is there some > where. > I’m also confused as to if I will need 2 kits or if 1 will be enough for > the > whole system. Would appreciate any info about this from any1 who may be > familiar with this kit. > Thanks in Advance, > D

Response:

Sorry guys – my scanner sucks.  This is as simple as it gets.  The page has pictures on it too.  HTH . R&D Truck & Auto Accessories, Inc. Instructions for installing Head Light Controller into 99-UP Chevrolet and GMC pickups and full size sport new style sport utility vehicles (Tahoes, Suburbans, Yukon, Yukon XL). NOT FOR HEAVYDUTY& and DIESEL MODELS! 1.  Disconnect battery before doing any electrical work on vehicle. 2.  Open hood and locate the Electrical Center box (fuse box). This is the large black plastic box on the drivers side. Take the cover off, it will lift right off. 3.  Remove the 4 bolts for the fender to firewall brace. These bolts are 13 mm. Two of the bolts are under the hood weather stripping~ Remove the windshield washer hose from the brace. Fig 1. 4.  Remove the Electrical Center box, there are two catches on the engine side down low. Release these catches and the box will slide right up and off. 5.    - There is one catch on the fuse box part of the Electrical Center1 it is on the fender side up high.  Release this and the fuse box will now tilt up, it is hinged on the engine side. It is helpful to use a screwdriver to hold this up while you make the connections. Brace the screwdriver against the inside of the fender with the blade towards the fuse box so as not to scratch anything’ 6.  Locate the square green connector on the underside of the fuse box. Connect the purple wire from the Headlight Controller to either of the purple wires in the 3rd row, 5th’ column of the square green connector. It may be necessary to clip the wire ties holding the wires together. There is another pair of purple wires on this connector do not connect to these or the Headlight Controller will not work properly. 7.  Connect the yellow wire from the Headlight Controller to either of the yellow wires in the 4th row,  5th column of the green connector. Connect the orange wire from the Headlight Controller to either of the orange wires in the 6th row, 5th column of the green connector. 8.  Connect the black wire from the Headlight Controller to the black wire in the 6th row, 6th column of the red connector which is right below the green connector. 9.  Reconnect battery and test system. With the headlights on, turn on the brights, all four of the headlights should be on. With the headlight on dim only the outside lights  should be on. If the headlights do not work this way check the connections to make sure they are on the right wire and are making contact. If one side or the other fail to light check the fuses. . .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Here’s where I bought mine.  Easiest thing in the world to do.  Easy to > follow instructions.  I also bought the headlight over ride, the foglight > controller and the electric lock device.  To get all four headlights on > hi-beam, you have to open the power center on the left fender.  The > connections are underneath it, but its real simple. > . > http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/acb/index.cfm?ncp=yes&DID=9 > . > I am also trying to get the 4 beam setup running, There is a big problem > in > my eyes because GM uses ground switching for the headlights… > if you turn on the low beams and measure the voltage, both low and hi > beams > have 12vdc supplied, but only the low beams have a true ground, the hi > beams > ground wire is floating…. and that switches when the hi beams come > on….. > I was planning on using a relay….. now what do I use!!!! > Let me know if you get yours working…… > I will update if I find a solution….. > Daniel > > I have a 2001 Tahoe and my question is this. I am thinking of buying a > High > > 4 Quad Beam Kit for my suv so I can run Hi and Low beams at the same > time. > > the instructions are vague they tell you to find the wiring harness for > the > > headlights and harness should be located near driver side fender. I > don’t > > want to cut anything but I can’t find it…obviously it is there some > where. > > I’m also confused as to if I will need 2 kits or if 1 will be enough for > the > > whole system. Would appreciate any info about this from any1 who may be > > familiar with this kit. > > Thanks in Advance, > > D

Response:

Here’s where I bought mine.  Easiest thing in the world to do.  Easy to follow instructions.  I also bought the headlight over ride, the foglight controller and the electric lock device.  To get all four headlights on hi-beam, you have to open the power center on the left fender.  The connections are underneath it, but its real simple. . http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/acb/index.cfm?ncp=yes&DID=9 .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am also trying to get the 4 beam setup running, There is a big problem in > my eyes because GM uses ground switching for the headlights… > if you turn on the low beams and measure the voltage, both low and hi beams > have 12vdc supplied, but only the low beams have a true ground, the hi beams > ground wire is floating…. and that switches when the hi beams come on….. > I was planning on using a relay….. now what do I use!!!! > Let me know if you get yours working…… > I will update if I find a solution….. > Daniel > I have a 2001 Tahoe and my question is this. I am thinking of buying a > High > 4 Quad Beam Kit for my suv so I can run Hi and Low beams at the same time. > the instructions are vague they tell you to find the wiring harness for > the > headlights and harness should be located near driver side fender. I don’t > want to cut anything but I can’t find it…obviously it is there some > where. > I’m also confused as to if I will need 2 kits or if 1 will be enough for > the > whole system. Would appreciate any info about this from any1 who may be > familiar with this kit. > Thanks in Advance, > D

Response:

I am also trying to get the 4 beam setup running, There is a big problem in my eyes because GM uses ground switching for the headlights… if you turn on the low beams and measure the voltage, both low and hi beams have 12vdc supplied, but only the low beams have a true ground, the hi beams ground wire is floating…. and that switches when the hi beams come on….. I was planning on using a relay….. now what do I use!!!! Let me know if you get yours working…… I will update if I find a solution….. Daniel

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2001 Tahoe and my question is this. I am thinking of buying a High > 4 Quad Beam Kit for my suv so I can run Hi and Low beams at the same time. > the instructions are vague they tell you to find the wiring harness for the > headlights and harness should be located near driver side fender. I don’t > want to cut anything but I can’t find it…obviously it is there some where. > I’m also confused as to if I will need 2 kits or if 1 will be enough for the > whole system. Would appreciate any info about this from any1 who may be > familiar with this kit. > Thanks in Advance, > D

Response:

I have a 2001 Tahoe and my question is this. I am thinking of buying a High 4 Quad Beam Kit for my suv so I can run Hi and Low beams at the same time. the instructions are vague they tell you to find the wiring harness for the headlights and harness should be located near driver side fender. I don’t want to cut anything but I can’t find it…obviously it is there some where. I’m also confused as to if I will need 2 kits or if 1 will be enough for the whole system. Would appreciate any info about this from any1 who may be familiar with this kit. Thanks in Advance, D

Response:

GM Janesville, WI. Plant

Question:

"Old Crow"  wrote > Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI > a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can > get those boards on in about 45 minutes.

I haven’t done a Suburban in a while, but I thought the time had been cut.  I do know that the Astro’s running boards are nasty. I just don’t think it will make much difference to the tech’s.  I hardly do PDI’s anymore.  Used to be that we would have so many we would have to stay late one night a week to get them done.  Even then, I’d take 5 Cavaliers over a Suburban…heh heh. > What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with > the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the > roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it.

I’ve never done one of those.  That would be nasty.  I’ve heard some horror stories of tech’s not putting a stop on the drill bit and cranking right on through the interior liner.  What do you say?  OOOppppps!!! Ian

Response:

IAN, If you drill the holes for the Avalanche roof rack from the outside, what holds the rack down ? just sheet metal screws? I thought it be bolted down from the inside. Hope you put some paint on the bolt holes so the owners don’t have 12 rusty holes on top in a few years…lol. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

WHen we tried to sell my dads 99 Navigator after he died in 2001 we advertise for two weeks, no callers, we advertised it as not having 4 wheel drive. Asked the Lincoln dealer if they would like to buy it back and they said you couldn’t sell that vehicle here ( in Chicago ) without 4 wheel drive, possibly in Florida or California. I told the salesman " Well my dad bought it here, and he didn’t need 4 wheel drive and probably the rest of the people that bought one here didn’t need it either or don’t even understand the purpose of it". He offered us $23,000 for it – a 99 with 10,854 miles in mint condition – We said no thanks. We advertised again, plus told people we knew if they knew anyone looking for one to pass the word around. One of the Bank Officers at mom’s bank bought it for $29,000. Dad paid a shade under $41,000 for it new. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

"Harry Face" wrote > If you drill the holes for the Avalanche roof rack from the outside, > what holds the rack down ? just sheet metal screws?

They use special blind nuts that operate like a rivet. > Hope you put some paint on the bolt holes so the owners don’t have 12 > rusty holes on top in a few years…lol.

Sorry, doesn’t say anything in the instructions about painting the holes, nor does it pay to do that. Pretty cynical, huh?  Actually, I believe that the design of the blind nuts are supposed to "weatherproof" the hole. Ian

Response:

I stand corrected, its the same as my Denali then. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The Navigator has automatic AWD, it is not a 4X4 > mike hunt > Who would even think of driving a 50k Lincoln Navigator in the snow!!! > I’ll bet the 4×4 has never been activated in 90% of those trucks. > Jerry H. > > Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? > > The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. > > They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! > > lol > > GW > > > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > > > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > > > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > > > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > > > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > > > place. > > > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > > > Harryface > > > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > > > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

I would imagine they likely use those kind of screws that have a sort of goo coating on the threads that’s supposed to coat the metal where the hole was drilled through.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> IAN, > If you drill the holes for the Avalanche roof rack from the outside, > what holds the rack down ? just sheet metal screws? > I thought it be bolted down from the inside. > Hope you put some paint on the bolt holes so the owners don’t have 12 > rusty holes on top in a few years…lol. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

That one of the reasons why Ford trucks have outsold Chevy for over twenty-five years.  Ford listens to it customers and had been offering factory running boards for about eight years.  They even have automatic retracting boards, that extend and retract when the doors open, on some of their trucks and SUV’s. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 > GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant > that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM > truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a > move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV > built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL > are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in place. Sounds like a dumb option to me. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! lol GW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > place. > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory installing the running boards when the trucks came in. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 > GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant > that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM > truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a > move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV > built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL > are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

Who would even think of driving a 50k Lincoln Navigator in the snow!!! I’ll bet the 4×4 has never been activated in 90% of those trucks. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? > The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. > They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! > lol > GW > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > place. > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in.

Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say. Ian

Response:

Jerry My dad ordered a 99 Navigator to get it without the 4 wheel drive, boy did he go round and round with the salesman over that. Nobody stocked a 2 wheel drive Navigator. Finally they caved in and order the damn thing. Daddy also owned  5 pick uo trucks , none of them 4 x 4’s. Navigator rode great in the snow. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

>"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in. >Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install >those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say.

Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can get those boards on in about 45 minutes. What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it. — Old Crow ‘82 FLTC 92" ‘Pearl’ TOMKAT, SENS, BS#133, DOF#51 ASE Certified Master Auto Tech Chevy Certified Master Tech

Response:

That’s what they said about windshield washer when they came out.  ;) mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > place. > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

Dealers in the snow belt stock the AWD.  In the sun belt they stock both.  The problem is if he lives in the snow belt, and tries to sell a RWD SUV in the snow belt, nobody will take it in trade.  Gotta sell it in the south or loose your shirt on the trade price. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Jerry > My dad ordered a 99 Navigator to get it without the 4 wheel drive, boy > did he go round and round with the salesman over that. Nobody stocked a > 2 wheel drive Navigator. Finally they caved in and order the damn thing. > Daddy also owned  5 pick uo trucks , none of them 4 x 4’s. > Navigator rode great in the snow. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

The Navigator has automatic AWD, it is not a 4X4 mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Who would even think of driving a 50k Lincoln Navigator in the snow!!! > I’ll bet the 4×4 has never been activated in 90% of those trucks. > Jerry H. > Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? > The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. > They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! > lol > GW > > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > > place. > > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > > Harryface > > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

can i ask what may be a dumb question? what is PDI’s

Response:

 Preparation of Dealer Inventory if I recall. You know the dealer prep charge everyone complains about….. The one everyone thinks is just a wash and wax… Steve W. — Pacifism – The theory that if they’d fed  Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,  he’d have become a vegan.

> can i ask what may be a dumb question? > what is PDI’s

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> Preparation of Dealer Inventory if I recall. You know the dealer prep >charge everyone complains about….. >The one everyone thinks is just a wash and wax… >Steve W.

I figured it as Pre-Delivery Inspection…

Response:

"Mike Levy A+, N+, MCP"  wrote > I figured it as Pre-Delivery Inspection…

That’s the one. Ian

Response:

thanks guys for the lesson. thats what i like about this group, i am always learning something new. thanks again.

Response:

Steve, This is NOT the ‘dealers prep’ as you call it.  Dealers do not charge for it, they are PAID to do it by GM.  So much time is alloted for each individual model.  This is to check all fluids, pull off all protective coverings, put in some gas, install items like running boards, roof racks, hubcabs, etc. The ‘wax’ jobs, interior coatings, pinstripes, etc are usually included in what you are referring to.  $25-$75 worth of work that they want to charge $399-$599 for.  Thank God the dealership I worked for never got into all that. Jerry H. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Preparation of Dealer Inventory if I recall. You know the dealer prep > charge everyone complains about….. > The one everyone thinks is just a wash and wax… > Steve W. > — > Pacifism – The theory that if they’d fed >  Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh, >  he’d have become a vegan. > can i ask what may be a dumb question? > what is PDI’s > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

"Old Crow"  wrote > Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI > a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can > get those boards on in about 45 minutes.

I haven’t done a Suburban in a while, but I thought the time had been cut.  I do know that the Astro’s running boards are nasty. I just don’t think it will make much difference to the tech’s.  I hardly do PDI’s anymore.  Used to be that we would have so many we would have to stay late one night a week to get them done.  Even then, I’d take 5 Cavaliers over a Suburban…heh heh. > What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with > the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the > roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it.

I’ve never done one of those.  That would be nasty.  I’ve heard some horror stories of tech’s not putting a stop on the drill bit and cranking right on through the interior liner.  What do you say?  OOOppppps!!! Ian

Response:

>"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in. >Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install >those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say.

Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can get those boards on in about 45 minutes. What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it. — Old Crow ‘82 FLTC 92" ‘Pearl’ TOMKAT, SENS, BS#133, DOF#51 ASE Certified Master Auto Tech Chevy Certified Master Tech

Response:

Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory installing the running boards when the trucks came in. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 > GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant > that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM > truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a > move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV > built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL > are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in.

Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say. Ian

Response:

2003 Tahoe Gas Mileage

Question:

– Pacifism – The theory that if they’d fed  Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,  he’d have become a vegan.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> inline > > that’s why you’re getting such lousy mileage.  ethanol blends > don’t have > > nearly the energy in them as straight gasoline.  less energy in > the fuel, > > the more you need to go a mile. > Do you know the BTU/Gallon of ethonal blend as compared to a > non-ethonal octane blend or can you point us to a reference on > that? > no I can’t, but logic should bear out that if there is a set amount of btu’s > required for an act (i.e. climb a hill) then a fuel with a higher btu > content will allow less fuel to be used for said act.  higher BTU content is > a big factor in why a diesel engine will get better mileage than a gasser (a > more efficient design helps too) > I always thought in the case of modern internal combustion > engines, slight differences in the latent heats of combustion > between a certain octane gasoline using ethanol or some other > knock supressant would be negligible. > If I buy gas in Maine (where I live) it is oxygenated with MTBE, I get about > 2mpg less than if I drive 15 miles across the border to NH and purchase > non-oxgenated gasoline.  my dad used to have a 3 cyl metro that would get > about 15mpg LESS with oxygenated fuel (learned this when MTBE gas was forced > on us by the EPA 7 or 8 years ago). > The higher the octane rating of the fuel, the slower burning the > fuel is. The higher the pressure in the combustion chamber, the > greater thermal efficiency.  The higher the pressure, the faster > the gasoline burns. If it burns too fast it causes "knock". > knocking is the gasoline exploding rather than burning in a controlled > fashion. >  That > is why we boost the octane rating of the gasoline with something > like ethonal or MTB. The higher the octane rating, the slower the > fuel burns.  Do you know what a Carnot cycle is? > no clue on the carnot cycle, but ethanol and MTBE are oxgenators, they > aren’t there for the octane rating.  putting more latent oxygen in the fuel > helps with CO and hydrocarbon emissions.

http://www.nesea.org/greencarclub/factsheets_ethanol.pdf  Gasohol: A blend of finished motor gasoline containing alcohol (generally ethanol but sometimes methanol) at a concentration of 10 percent or less by volume. Data on gasohol that has at least 2.7 percent oxygen, by weight, and is intended for sale inside carbon monoxide nonattainment areas are included in data on oxygenated gasoline. See Oxygenates. Oxygenates: Substances which, when added to gasoline, increase the amount of oxygen in that gasoline blend. Ethanol, Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether (MTBE), Ethyl Tertiary Butyl Ether (ETBE), and methanol are common oxygenates. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

>I use only the cheapest unleaded regular on my 5.3 liter 1/2 ton >extended cab truck and always have. If I am driving the >interstate, I set my cruise on 82 and consistently get 16 to 17. >If I am driving two lane, I set the cruise on 72 and very >consistently get 17 to 18.5. I have drove with the cruise at >60-65 and got over 20. I have 3.73 gears, which is probably what >that guy has in his Tahoe.  My truck dry weighed 4700lbs and I >carry a large tool box. That tahoe dry probably weighs >4300-4400lbs. Something is wrong with his Tahoe or  driving if he >can’t get over 13.5mpg on the highway.

<snip> Ok, I can tell you this: A) I only have about 5,000 miles on my Tahoe now, so perhaps it’s too early to think of 13.5mpg a problem? Perhaps it will still increase? The 13.5 is *average total* btw, not just highway. I do mostly highway, 60+ miles per hour, but not all. How arcurate can the "average mpg current trip really be anyhow? The numbers just keep fluctuating as you are driving… B) I have the regular, smaller tires NOT the off-road tires. They are inflated to about 35 psi I believe C) I Don’t cary any major weight or tools, and only occasionally "floor it" to get around a slowpoke. D) I did verify, my sticker says 14mpg/city and 18mpg/highway. What does the stickers say on you people claiming 18-20mpg?? I’d really like to know if your stickers say 18-20, and if not, then how could you be getting *better* mpg that the sticker says? Usually you get LOWER numbers than what the stickers say, even if just slightly lower-but certainly never higher. E) As I said before, I do use cruise control quite a bit on highways. I also have yet to use the A/C, so we can rule that out.

Response:

inline

> that’s why you’re getting such lousy mileage.  ethanol blends > don’t have > nearly the energy in them as straight gasoline.  less energy in > the fuel, > the more you need to go a mile. > Do you know the BTU/Gallon of ethonal blend as compared to a > non-ethonal octane blend or can you point us to a reference on > that?

no I can’t, but logic should bear out that if there is a set amount of btu’s required for an act (i.e. climb a hill) then a fuel with a higher btu content will allow less fuel to be used for said act.  higher BTU content is a big factor in why a diesel engine will get better mileage than a gasser (a more efficient design helps too) I always thought in the case of modern internal combustion > engines, slight differences in the latent heats of combustion > between a certain octane gasoline using ethanol or some other > knock supressant would be negligible.

If I buy gas in Maine (where I live) it is oxygenated with MTBE, I get about 2mpg less than if I drive 15 miles across the border to NH and purchase non-oxgenated gasoline.  my dad used to have a 3 cyl metro that would get about 15mpg LESS with oxygenated fuel (learned this when MTBE gas was forced on us by the EPA 7 or 8 years ago). > The higher the octane rating of the fuel, the slower burning the > fuel is. The higher the pressure in the combustion chamber, the > greater thermal efficiency.  The higher the pressure, the faster > the gasoline burns. If it burns too fast it causes "knock".

knocking is the gasoline exploding rather than burning in a controlled fashion.  That > is why we boost the octane rating of the gasoline with something > like ethonal or MTB. The higher the octane rating, the slower the > fuel burns.  Do you know what a Carnot cycle is?

no clue on the carnot cycle, but ethanol and MTBE are oxgenators, they aren’t there for the octane rating.  putting more latent oxygen in the fuel helps with CO and hydrocarbon emissions.

Response:

sorry, I thought the guy geting 13.5 was using that ethanol blended crap.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> that’s why you’re getting such lousy mileage.  ethanol blends don’t have > nearly the energy in them as straight gasoline.  less energy in the fuel, > the more you need to go a mile. > 18 to 23 mpg with a full sized ext cab 4×4 w/ 5.3 is lousy? Please read the > posts before replying to them. > Dave

Response:

>I only use mid grade or better. >I’m not concerned with the price of fuel too much. Good fuel and good oil >are the key to long life and optimum performance. I’ll only tank up with >Panther piss if I have to. >IMO if you can’t afford another few bucks to fill up your driving the wrong >vehicle, a Metro would be a better choice. Spending 40K for a truck and >skimping on fuel isn’t worth it. >At 4-5 miles per gallon difference using better fuels to me is a no >brainer. What are we talking about saving? Not that much, and I would >rather not have the knock sensor working overtime to save a few bucks in my >expensive truck.

This is all of course, if you even buy into the whole "fuel grade" thing in the first place. Many people have said there is little difference. Still further, the manual I believe, reccomends 87 octane.

Response:

>sorry, I thought the guy geting 13.5 was using that ethanol blended crap.

That would be me, and no, I have never used ethanol yet. Stright 87 octane.

Response:

 there are differences in the fuel grades, however, you most likely won’t see any difference running a normal compression (9.5:1 and lower) and normal rpm (5000rpm and lower) engine.  you will see a big differance with higher comp. ratio’s and high rpms.  the 4AGE in my MR2 is ~10.5:1 CR and has a 7500RPM rev limit and you definately can tell a difference above 4500RPM, with 87octane it pings like crazy, bump up to 93 no pings and a bunch more power. so in short, a truck engine most likely won’t benefit from anything higher than 87octane, but a ‘67 Camaro Z28 w/ the solid lifter 302 won’t hardly run on anything less than 93. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This is all of course, if you even buy into the whole "fuel grade" > thing in the first place. Many people have said there is little > difference. Still further, the manual I believe, reccomends 87 octane.

Response:

> there are differences in the fuel grades, however, you most likely won’t >see any difference running a normal compression (9.5:1 and lower) and normal >rpm (5000rpm and lower) engine.  you will see a big differance with higher >comp. ratio’s and high rpms.  the 4AGE in my MR2 is ~10.5:1 CR and has a >7500RPM rev limit and you definately can tell a difference above 4500RPM, >with 87octane it pings like crazy, bump up to 93 no pings and a bunch more >power. so in short, a truck engine most likely won’t benefit from anything >higher than 87octane, but a ‘67 Camaro Z28 w/ the solid lifter 302 won’t >hardly run on anything less than 93.

Ok, so this would explian why the Tahoe and some other SUV manuals I have read recently call for 87 octane. In any case I’ll likely (for the sake of curiosity) try 93 octane for a while and see if my 13.5 MPG magically starts to rise…As far as pinging, I have never had any pinging in recent SUV’s I’ve owned or been in. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This is all of course, if you even buy into the whole "fuel grade" > thing in the first place. Many people have said there is little > difference. Still further, the manual I believe, reccomends 87 octane.

Response:

> >13.5 is pretty lousy, my ‘99 Yukon w/5.7 gets 17-18 mpg on cruise at 70 mph >with the AC on. > One question: are you using high grade fuel? because if you are of > course, you are loosing the benefit of higher miles-per-gallon in the > cost of the fuel, which is pointless. The whole idea is to save money. > Ok, maybe it’s nice to not have to fill up as often too, but I think > money is number 1.

I use only the cheapest unleaded regular on my 5.3 liter 1/2 ton extended cab truck and always have. If I am driving the interstate, I set my cruise on 82 and consistently get 16 to 17. If I am driving two lane, I set the cruise on 72 and very consistently get 17 to 18.5. I have drove with the cruise at 60-65 and got over 20. I have 3.73 gears, which is probably what that guy has in his Tahoe.  My truck dry weighed 4700lbs and I carry a large tool box. That tahoe dry probably weighs 4300-4400lbs. Something is wrong with his Tahoe or  driving if he can’t get over 13.5mpg on the highway. In all 35,000 miles of driving my truck, which includes a lot of idling time (hundreds of hours) in the winter on cold remote Rocky Mountain locations and a lot of driving on really bad dirt and gravel roads and city driving, I have overall averaged 14.1mpg. I’m running 265×16 Toyo 8 ply rated tires, which are off road tires with a fairly agressive tread. I run them with 35psi. I’m sure I’d get better milage with 245’s with a highway tread, as is the case for most Tahoes. I’ve never felt that Toyos were very good for gas milage, but they quite good demanding conditions out in the boonies where I work at least 100 days a year. Tires, type and tire size and the pressures you run them at can make a difference. The larger tire you run the less gas milage you are going to get. Larger lower pressure tires can have a much higher coefficient of friction. Narrower higher pressure, harder rubber compound tires will have a lower coefficient of friction and can get quite a bit better gas milage on the same vehicle, especially if the gearing on your vehicle was designed for the smaller tires. If you stuck some over size softer rubber tires on your Tahoe, you can count on getting less gas milage. We all like larger fatter tires, but we pay for it in more way than just what they cost us to buy and have mounted and balanced. I have kept meticulous records of every drop of gas, oil, and other maintaince of every vehicle I have drove since 1982. That includes blazers, 1/2 ton trucks and a host of automobiles. Curiously I used to manage a fleet of some 150-200 oil field trucks. 99% of the the cost per mile and milage had -nothing- to do with whether they were fords or chevys or how often the oil was changed and whether it was synthetic oil or not, and -everything- to do with the idiot behind the wheel. Even in the best maintained trucks, there are drivers who can drive the same road with the same vehicle and get 2-5mpg less and tear that vehicle up in 1/3 of the time. Never give a ford man a chevy and never give a chevy man a ford….expecially if they are YOUNG men (Ages 30 and under). Young men are the hardest people there on any vehicle and especially hard on trucks. My guess is that if a person can’t even get the EPA rated milage his tahoe, he is a young man and/or put oversize tires on it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A tad less on winter blend fuels. This winter I had to tow >a friends Exploder that blew a head gasket back home (300 miles) on a dolly >and got 11.5 mpg running 65 mph with all that crap hanging off the back >end. >A 5.3 getting 18-20 is totally realistic on the freeway IMO > The sticker, last I remember, states 13-18, and rarely in my > experience have I ever seen the maximum numbers on the window sticker > (in this case the 18) reached by any vehicle. I suspect that it will > top out around 15 or maybe 16 eventually. Incidentally I do use cruise > quite a bit too, and mine is a 5.3 also, for the record.

Are you running a bug smasher and a rear air foil? Believe it or not an ill designed bug smasher can affect your milage. The old flat ones were really bad. On a stock truck, unless I put oversized tires on it, I’ve always been able to get more than the sticker rating starting with the first truck I had that had a sticker rating (1982 Silverado 4×4 305-16epa vs 17-20 hwy actual, 1983 305 blazer 4×4, 17 EPA, 18-21 on highway-both had 3:03 gears) and I’m a crochety old guy that has had lot’s of 4wd trucks and full size SUV’s over the last 30 years. I keep meticulous records, both on personal and company vehicles. But as I said, 99% of it is the driver, not the vehicle.  Do you drive like an impatient young man? <chuckle>. One thing I have noticed with new body style Chev/GMC is that gas tanks can be quite erratic to fill depending on how I am parked when I fill up and how impatient I am to get the tank completely full and how the pump shut off itself is set. Take your truck on a long trip that takes 3 or more fillups, use the cruise and keep your foot off the gas and the brake. If you the disgruntled Tahoe driver does that, I will be amazed if he averages less than 18mpg.

Response:

> that’s why you’re getting such lousy mileage.  ethanol blends don’t have > nearly the energy in them as straight gasoline.  less energy in the fuel, > the more you need to go a mile.

Do you know the BTU/Gallon of ethonal blend as compared to a non-ethonal octane blend or can you point us to a reference on that? I always thought in the case of modern internal combustion engines, slight differences in the latent heats of combustion between a certain octane gasoline using ethanol or some other knock supressant would be negligible. The higher the octane rating of the fuel, the slower burning the fuel is. The higher the pressure in the combustion chamber, the greater thermal efficiency.  The higher the pressure, the faster the gasoline burns. If it burns too fast it causes "knock". That is why we boost the octane rating of the gasoline with something like ethonal or MTB. The higher the octane rating, the slower the fuel burns.  Do you know what a Carnot cycle is? No doubt I’m a bit rusty on the various thermodynmic considerations in an internal combustion engine, but my gut feel is that worrying about slight difference in the heats of combustion of a 10% ethonal mixture as compared to using some other octane booster thermodynically just isn’t going to make a smattering of difference. But I’ve not studied the Carnot Cycle as it pertains to internal combustion engines in a long LONG time. Check it out: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – message > > >> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am > wondering > > >> what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > > >> Anyone with experience? > > >My ‘99 Sierra ext-cab 4×4 w/5.3 has gotten nearly 23mpg on the freeway > at > 70 > > >mph, but 18-20 is much more common. > > >Dave > > What kind of fuel? (See my other post) > I always use the lowest priced gasoline I can find. Usually a mid grade > ethanol blend. Here in Iowa, it’s usually a couple of cents cheaper than > regular. > Dave

Response:

> that’s why you’re getting such lousy mileage.  ethanol blends don’t have > nearly the energy in them as straight gasoline.  less energy in the fuel, > the more you need to go a mile.

18 to 23 mpg with a full sized ext cab 4×4 w/ 5.3 is lousy? Please read the posts before replying to them. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > >> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am > wondering > > >> what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > > >> Anyone with experience? > > >My ‘99 Sierra ext-cab 4×4 w/5.3 has gotten nearly 23mpg on the freeway > at > 70 > > >mph, but 18-20 is much more common. > > >Dave > > What kind of fuel? (See my other post) > I always use the lowest priced gasoline I can find. Usually a mid grade > ethanol blend. Here in Iowa, it’s usually a couple of cents cheaper than > regular. > Dave

Response:

> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering > what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > Anyone with experience?

My ‘99 Sierra ext-cab 4×4 w/5.3 has gotten nearly 23mpg on the freeway at 70 mph, but 18-20 is much more common. Dave

Response:

>13.5 is pretty lousy, my ‘99 Yukon w/5.7 gets 17-18 mpg on cruise at 70 mph >with the AC on.

One question: are you using high grade fuel? because if you are of course, you are loosing the benefit of higher miles-per-gallon in the cost of the fuel, which is pointless. The whole idea is to save money. Ok, maybe it’s nice to not have to fill up as often too, but I think money is number 1. > A tad less on winter blend fuels. This winter I had to tow >a friends Exploder that blew a head gasket back home (300 miles) on a dolly >and got 11.5 mpg running 65 mph with all that crap hanging off the back >end. >A 5.3 getting 18-20 is totally realistic on the freeway IMO

The sticker, last I remember, states 13-18, and rarely in my experience have I ever seen the maximum numbers on the window sticker (in this case the 18) reached by any vehicle. I suspect that it will top out around 15 or maybe 16 eventually. Incidentally I do use cruise quite a bit too, and mine is a 5.3 also, for the record.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering > what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > Anyone with experience? >My ‘99 Sierra ext-cab 4×4 w/5.3 has gotten nearly 23mpg on the freeway at 70 >mph, but 18-20 is much more common. >Dave

What kind of fuel? (See my other post)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering >> what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? >> Anyone with experience? >My ‘99 Sierra ext-cab 4×4 w/5.3 has gotten nearly 23mpg on the freeway at 70 >mph, but 18-20 is much more common. >Dave > What kind of fuel? (See my other post)

I always use the lowest priced gasoline I can find. Usually a mid grade ethanol blend. Here in Iowa, it’s usually a couple of cents cheaper than regular. Dave

Response:

that’s why you’re getting such lousy mileage.  ethanol blends don’t have nearly the energy in them as straight gasoline.  less energy in the fuel, the more you need to go a mile.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am > wondering > >> what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > >> Anyone with experience? > >My ‘99 Sierra ext-cab 4×4 w/5.3 has gotten nearly 23mpg on the freeway at > 70 > >mph, but 18-20 is much more common. > >Dave > What kind of fuel? (See my other post) > I always use the lowest priced gasoline I can find. Usually a mid grade > ethanol blend. Here in Iowa, it’s usually a couple of cents cheaper than > regular. > Dave

Response:

I only use mid grade or better. I’m not concerned with the price of fuel too much. Good fuel and good oil are the key to long life and optimum performance. I’ll only tank up with Panther piss if I have to. IMO if you can’t afford another few bucks to fill up your driving the wrong vehicle, a Metro would be a better choice. Spending 40K for a truck and skimping on fuel isn’t worth it. At 4-5 miles per gallon difference using better fuels to me is a no brainer. What are we talking about saving? Not that much, and I would rather not have the knock sensor working overtime to save a few bucks in my expensive truck. — John "Some suffer from insanity, I choose to enjoy it" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->13.5 is pretty lousy, my ‘99 Yukon w/5.7 gets 17-18 mpg on cruise at 70 mph >with the AC on. > One question: are you using high grade fuel? because if you are of > course, you are loosing the benefit of higher miles-per-gallon in the > cost of the fuel, which is pointless. The whole idea is to save money. > Ok, maybe it’s nice to not have to fill up as often too, but I think > money is number 1. > A tad less on winter blend fuels. This winter I had to tow >a friends Exploder that blew a head gasket back home (300 miles) on a dolly >and got 11.5 mpg running 65 mph with all that crap hanging off the back >end. >A 5.3 getting 18-20 is totally realistic on the freeway IMO > The sticker, last I remember, states 13-18, and rarely in my > experience have I ever seen the maximum numbers on the window sticker > (in this case the 18) reached by any vehicle. I suspect that it will > top out around 15 or maybe 16 eventually. Incidentally I do use cruise > quite a bit too, and mine is a 5.3 also, for the record.

Response:

I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? Anyone with experience?

Response:

18-20

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering > what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > Anyone with experience?

Response:

>18-20

I’d like to see that somewhere in reality. My 2003 Tahoe LT is up tp 13.5 after about 4 months, of mostly 60-70 mph. The Tahoe is a big truck, and expecting it to get 18-20 miles per gallon is not realistic. I love the truck and was fully aware of what kind of gas mileage to expect when I bought it, and I have not been surprised thus far at all. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering > what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? > Anyone with experience?

Response:

13.5 is pretty lousy, my ‘99 Yukon w/5.7 gets 17-18 mpg on cruise at 70 mph with the AC on. A tad less on winter blend fuels. This winter I had to tow a friends Exploder that blew a head gasket back home (300 miles) on a dolly and got 11.5 mpg running 65 mph with all that crap hanging off the back end. A 5.3 getting 18-20 is totally realistic on the freeway IMO — John "Some suffer from insanity, I choose to enjoy it" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->18-20 > I’d like to see that somewhere in reality. My 2003 Tahoe LT is up tp > 13.5 after about 4 months, of mostly 60-70 mph. The Tahoe is a big > truck, and expecting it to get 18-20 miles per gallon is not > realistic. I love the truck and was fully aware of what kind of gas > mileage to expect when I bought it, and I have not been surprised thus > far at all. >> I am considering buying a Tahoe with the 5.3 liter engine and am wondering >> what can be expected for freeway (70mph) gas mileage? >> Anyone with experience?

Response:

2001 Yukon ABS

Question:

"Steve Ortmann" wrote > Vehicle: 2001 GMC Yukon XL 5.3 L 2WD > I’m experiencing problems with the ABS system. ABS light ON. Pump motor is > always on, even with ignition off. I pulled the 60A fuse which shut the pump > down. Pulling the fuse made the Parking brake light illuminate. Brake > hydraulic system still functions normally. No drag or pull. Brakes feel fine > and pedal pressure is normal.My guess is the electronic control unit went > bad. Your help diagnosing this would be appreciated.

I think you are right.  We have run into this problem quite a bit. The relay that engages the ABS pump motor is integral with the EBCM and goes belly up.  Since it’s part of the EBCM, it’s a rather expensive fix. I think the codes you will see will be C0267-C0268 Ian

Response:

Vehicle: 2001 GMC Yukon XL 5.3 L 2WD I’m experiencing problems with the ABS system. ABS light ON. Pump motor is always on, even with ignition off. I pulled the 60A fuse which shut the pump down. Pulling the fuse made the Parking brake light illuminate. Brake hydraulic system still functions normally. No drag or pull. Brakes feel fine and pedal pressure is normal.My guess is the electronic control unit went bad. Your help diagnosing this would be appreciated.

Response:

Which Tahoe suspension is best?? Autoride?? Stabilitrak??

Question:

We will soon order a new Tahoe (or Yukon) and wonder whether the premium suspension or the Z71 would be best for us. We will drive about 5,000 miles per year mostly highway.  May never go offroad.  We live in the mountains of northcentral PA.   The only trailering is a 2-place snowmobile trailer to PA and Quebec.   Rarely would carry a heavy load in the truck. We like the Z71 features otherwise but wonder if the suspension would be too rough for everyday use and trips without a trailer. Comments, especially from people who are familiar with both suspensions, are appreciated. Also, have heard some very negative comments about Autoride.  Any comments on Autoride??  Also Stabilitrak?? Thanks.

Response:

You would be wasting your money on anything other than the standard suspension if your use is as you say.  Just to be sure, go and drive one with each suspension.  Autoride is for folks who do both highway and rough road driving, as it automatically adjust the shock settings.  The Z71 suspension has stiffer springs and shocks, which would give you a stiffer ride on the highway.  The rear shocks will automatically level the truck with the standard suspension, to handle and weight you may carry. Jerry H. – Retired GMC sales manager – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We will soon order a new Tahoe (or Yukon) and wonder whether the > premium suspension or the Z71 would be best for us. > We will drive about 5,000 miles per year mostly highway.  May never go > offroad.  We live in the mountains of northcentral PA.   The only > trailering is a 2-place snowmobile trailer to PA and Quebec.   Rarely > would carry a heavy load in the truck. > We like the Z71 features otherwise but wonder if the suspension would > be too rough for everyday use and trips without a trailer. > Comments, especially from people who are familiar with both > suspensions, are appreciated. > Also, have heard some very negative comments about Autoride.  Any > comments on Autoride??  Also Stabilitrak?? > Thanks.

Response:

Surges, then dies?

Question:

How do you double the value of a Yugo? Fill it full of gas! Q: Wanna buy my Yugo? A: Yugo fu_k yerself!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As the snow flies… > At a used car lot on the edge of town, > Liberal guy and a liberal gal buy a Yugo, > (buy a Yugo) > And they drive with pride, > ‘cuz if there’s one thing that this world needs > it’s environmental friends that’ll take the lead in a Yugo, > (in a Yugo) > They say people don’t ya understand? > those Suburbans are ruinin’ the land, > But they’ll wish they had a full-size van one day, > They point fingers at you and me, > And say we are too blind to see, > But do we simply use our heads > And choose another way? > As those small wheels turn > Fifty miles to the gallon and the knees on the chest > Their gonna save enough gas for all of the rest > In a Yugo > (in a Yugo) > Then one day on the Interstate > They suddenly lose control > They swerve to miss a baby duck > They’re squashed beneath a produce truck > But they drove with pride, > And as the crowds drive past the little flat car > that would save a lot of gas, but they didn’t get far > in a Yugo > (in a Yugo) > And as they’re trapped inside > (in a Yugo!) > In a used car lot on the other side of town > A liberal guy and a liberal gal… buy a Yugo, > (buy a Yugo) > And they drive with pride, > (in a Yugo) > >> My semi-stock Blazer stomps most the ricers.  For some reason, they > think > >> their fart cans, lights and stickers make their cars fast.  Oh yeah, > you > >> cannot forget the big fat gay wings.  Repressed! > >Fart Cannon muffler = $200 > >Neon Lights = $100 > >Stickers <Type-R and a plethora of Japanese symbols> = $50 > >Big, fat gay wing = $400 > >Being stomped by a semi-stock GM truck, PRICELESS. > I used to have a rusted-out plymouth fury station wagon with a 383 > police interceptor engine and the usual big mother of a carb, heavy > 4-speed transmission, etc. It was a lot of fun against the hot-rod > wannabes.  More than a few brainless kids driving fast-car lookalikes > blew out their engines or transmissions because they would NOT let > themselves be beat by an over-the-hill family station wagon. :) > That tank got better mileage than my teensy little S10 blazer, too. > (But doesn’t everything?)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My semi-stock Blazer stomps most the ricers.  For some reason, they think > their fart cans, lights and stickers make their cars fast.  Oh yeah, you > cannot forget the big fat gay wings.  Repressed! >Fart Cannon muffler = $200 >Neon Lights = $100 >Stickers <Type-R and a plethora of Japanese symbols> = $50 >Big, fat gay wing = $400 >Being stomped by a semi-stock GM truck, PRICELESS.

I used to have a rusted-out plymouth fury station wagon with a 383 police interceptor engine and the usual big mother of a carb, heavy 4-speed transmission, etc. It was a lot of fun against the hot-rod wannabes.  More than a few brainless kids driving fast-car lookalikes blew out their engines or transmissions because they would NOT let themselves be beat by an over-the-hill family station wagon. :) That tank got better mileage than my teensy little S10 blazer, too. (But doesn’t everything?)

Response:

As the snow flies… At a used car lot on the edge of town, Liberal guy and a liberal gal buy a Yugo, (buy a Yugo) And they drive with pride, ‘cuz if there’s one thing that this world needs it’s environmental friends that’ll take the lead in a Yugo, (in a Yugo) They say people don’t ya understand? those Suburbans are ruinin’ the land, But they’ll wish they had a full-size van one day, They point fingers at you and me, And say we are too blind to see, But do we simply use our heads And choose another way? As those small wheels turn Fifty miles to the gallon and the knees on the chest Their gonna save enough gas for all of the rest In a Yugo (in a Yugo) Then one day on the Interstate They suddenly lose control They swerve to miss a baby duck They’re squashed beneath a produce truck But they drove with pride, And as the crowds drive past the little flat car that would save a lot of gas, but they didn’t get far in a Yugo (in a Yugo) And as they’re trapped inside (in a Yugo!) In a used car lot on the other side of town A liberal guy and a liberal gal… buy a Yugo, (buy a Yugo) And they drive with pride, (in a Yugo)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> My semi-stock Blazer stomps most the ricers.  For some reason, they think >> their fart cans, lights and stickers make their cars fast.  Oh yeah, you >> cannot forget the big fat gay wings.  Repressed! >Fart Cannon muffler = $200 >Neon Lights = $100 >Stickers <Type-R and a plethora of Japanese symbols> = $50 >Big, fat gay wing = $400 >Being stomped by a semi-stock GM truck, PRICELESS. > I used to have a rusted-out plymouth fury station wagon with a 383 > police interceptor engine and the usual big mother of a carb, heavy > 4-speed transmission, etc. It was a lot of fun against the hot-rod > wannabes.  More than a few brainless kids driving fast-car lookalikes > blew out their engines or transmissions because they would NOT let > themselves be beat by an over-the-hill family station wagon. :) > That tank got better mileage than my teensy little S10 blazer, too. > (But doesn’t everything?)

Response:

That was great!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My semi-stock Blazer stomps most the ricers.  For some reason, they think > their fart cans, lights and stickers make their cars fast.  Oh yeah, you > cannot forget the big fat gay wings.  Repressed! > Fart Cannon muffler = $200 > Neon Lights = $100 > Stickers <Type-R and a plethora of Japanese symbols> = $50 > Big, fat gay wing = $400 > Being stomped by a semi-stock GM truck, PRICELESS. > Take er’ easy, > Doc

Response:

>  Repressed! >  ’elp, ‘elp, I’m bein’ repressed.

Fo hun’ed years man, fo hun’ed years.

Response:

> My semi-stock Blazer stomps most the ricers.  For some reason, they think > their fart cans, lights and stickers make their cars fast.  Oh yeah, you > cannot forget the big fat gay wings.  Repressed!

Fart Cannon muffler = $200 Neon Lights = $100 Stickers <Type-R and a plethora of Japanese symbols> = $50 Big, fat gay wing = $400 Being stomped by a semi-stock GM truck, PRICELESS. Take er’ easy, Doc

Response:

>  Repressed!

 ’elp, ‘elp, I’m bein’ repressed.

Response:

My semi-stock Blazer stomps most the ricers.  For some reason, they think their fart cans, lights and stickers make their cars fast.  Oh yeah, you cannot forget the big fat gay wings.  Repressed!

> Just stay away from the "Rice’ tricks, i.e., fart cannons & funky > taillights! LOL! > ROFLMFAO!  Fart Cannons!  That’s the best description I’ve heard on the way > they sound.  Thanks for the laugh <g>.  My truck eats those for breakfast > <well, ricers and Fords too>.  You can see some pics of my truck at

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> rder=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ > <Mine’s the blue Sierra, the red Sonoma is the wife’s truck> > Have a good one, > Doc

Response:

> Just stay away from the "Rice’ tricks, i.e., fart cannons & funky > taillights! LOL!

ROFLMFAO!  Fart Cannons!  That’s the best description I’ve heard on the way they sound.  Thanks for the laugh <g>.  My truck eats those for breakfast <well, ricers and Fords too>.  You can see some pics of my truck at rder=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ <Mine’s the blue Sierra, the red Sonoma is the wife’s truck> Have a good one, Doc

Response:

Just stay away from the "Rice’ tricks, i.e., fart cannons & funky taillights! LOL!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Doc, > Can’t thank you enough! Keep up the good work! > Hope Santa brings ya what ya want! > Peace, > Harpman > Santa’s running a bit behind this year!  Me and my truck asked for some new > headers, high-flow cats and big-wazoo exhaust tips which should be arriving > shortly!  Have a great holiday. > Doc > > > Thanks for your reply, Doc! > > > I did replace the fuel filter one month ago! > > > I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM = $256.00…ouch! > > > Another warm, fuzzy moment from GMC! > > > Runs like a top! Got the old pump, piece o’ crap plastic! Should I > bother > > to > > > test it, now that I’ve already replaced it? > > If she’s running well, I think it’s safe to assume that the pump was the > > culprit.  Here’s how to make your next pump last forever: > > 1)  Never let the tank get below 1/4 full <the pump has lees surrounding > gas > > to cool it and heat shortens pump life> > > 2)  Replace fuel filter every 15k <partially blocked filter makes pump > work > > harder and shortens life> > > 3)  Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner every oil change > > Have a great Christmas, > > Doc > > > > > 1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt > like > > > > > it…..surges twice then dies! > > > > > Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading > > > > > bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no > fuel! > > > > > Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay > running??? > > Do > > > I > > > > > guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. > > > > > What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? > > > > > Respectfully to the Group, > > > > > Harpman > > > > Harp, > > > > You need a fuel pressure gauge to test for proper fuel pressure > <59-65 > > > psi> > > > > to the injectors.  There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for > this > > > > purpose.  I’d replace the fuel filter before I seven tarted thinking > > about > > > > the fuel pump! > > > > Doc

Response:

> Doc, > Can’t thank you enough! Keep up the good work! > Hope Santa brings ya what ya want! > Peace, > Harpman

Santa’s running a bit behind this year!  Me and my truck asked for some new headers, high-flow cats and big-wazoo exhaust tips which should be arriving shortly!  Have a great holiday. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Thanks for your reply, Doc! > > I did replace the fuel filter one month ago! > > I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM = $256.00…ouch! > > Another warm, fuzzy moment from GMC! > > Runs like a top! Got the old pump, piece o’ crap plastic! Should I > bother > to > > test it, now that I’ve already replaced it? > If she’s running well, I think it’s safe to assume that the pump was the > culprit.  Here’s how to make your next pump last forever: > 1)  Never let the tank get below 1/4 full <the pump has lees surrounding > gas > to cool it and heat shortens pump life> > 2)  Replace fuel filter every 15k <partially blocked filter makes pump > work > harder and shortens life> > 3)  Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner every oil change > Have a great Christmas, > Doc > > > > 1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt like > > > > it…..surges twice then dies! > > > > Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading > > > > bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no fuel! > > > > Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay running??? > Do > > I > > > > guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. > > > > What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? > > > > Respectfully to the Group, > > > > Harpman > > > Harp, > > > You need a fuel pressure gauge to test for proper fuel pressure <59-65 > > psi> > > > to the injectors.  There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for this > > > purpose.  I’d replace the fuel filter before I seven tarted thinking > about > > > the fuel pump! > > > Doc

Response:

> Thanks for your reply, Doc! > I did replace the fuel filter one month ago! > I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM = $256.00…ouch! > Another warm, fuzzy moment from GMC! > Runs like a top! Got the old pump, piece o’ crap plastic! Should I bother to > test it, now that I’ve already replaced it?

If she’s running well, I think it’s safe to assume that the pump was the culprit.  Here’s how to make your next pump last forever: 1)  Never let the tank get below 1/4 full <the pump has lees surrounding gas to cool it and heat shortens pump life> 2)  Replace fuel filter every 15k <partially blocked filter makes pump work harder and shortens life> 3)  Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner every oil change Have a great Christmas, Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > 1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt like > > it…..surges twice then dies! > > Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading > > bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no fuel! > > Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay running??? Do > I > > guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. > > What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? > > Respectfully to the Group, > > Harpman > Harp, > You need a fuel pressure gauge to test for proper fuel pressure <59-65 > psi> > to the injectors.  There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for this > purpose.  I’d replace the fuel filter before I seven tarted thinking about > the fuel pump! > Doc

Response:

Doc, Can’t thank you enough! Keep up the good work! Hope Santa brings ya what ya want! Peace, Harpman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for your reply, Doc! > I did replace the fuel filter one month ago! > I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM = $256.00…ouch! > Another warm, fuzzy moment from GMC! > Runs like a top! Got the old pump, piece o’ crap plastic! Should I bother > to > test it, now that I’ve already replaced it? > If she’s running well, I think it’s safe to assume that the pump was the > culprit.  Here’s how to make your next pump last forever: > 1)  Never let the tank get below 1/4 full <the pump has lees surrounding gas > to cool it and heat shortens pump life> > 2)  Replace fuel filter every 15k <partially blocked filter makes pump work > harder and shortens life> > 3)  Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner every oil change > Have a great Christmas, > Doc > > > 1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt like > > > it…..surges twice then dies! > > > Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading > > > bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no fuel! > > > Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay running??? > Do > I > > > guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. > > > What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? > > > Respectfully to the Group, > > > Harpman > > Harp, > > You need a fuel pressure gauge to test for proper fuel pressure <59-65 > psi> > > to the injectors.  There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for this > > purpose.  I’d replace the fuel filter before I seven tarted thinking > about > > the fuel pump! > > Doc

Response:

Thanks for your reply, Doc! I did replace the fuel filter one month ago! I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM = $256.00…ouch! Another warm, fuzzy moment from GMC! Runs like a top! Got the old pump, piece o’ crap plastic! Should I bother to test it, now that I’ve already replaced it?

Response:

Thanks for your reply, Doc! I did replace the fuel filter one month ago! I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM = $256.00…ouch! Another warm, fuzzy moment from GMC! Runs like a top! Got the old pump, piece o’ crap plastic! Should I bother to test it, now that I’ve already replaced it?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt like > it…..surges twice then dies! > Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading > bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no fuel! > Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay running??? Do I > guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. > What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? > Respectfully to the Group, > Harpman > Harp, > You need a fuel pressure gauge to test for proper fuel pressure <59-65 psi> > to the injectors.  There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for this > purpose.  I’d replace the fuel filter before I seven tarted thinking about > the fuel pump! > Doc

Response:

1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt like it…..surges twice then dies! Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no fuel! Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay running??? Do I guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? Respectfully to the Group, Harpman

Response:

> 1997 Yukon with 60K on the Odo. Thought I ran out of gas, felt like > it…..surges twice then dies! > Put a gallon of gas in, just to make sure the gauge wasn’t reading > bad…….just turns over, plenty of electrical, feels like no fuel! > Sprayed carb cleaner/starter, fired up, but wouldn’t stay running??? Do I > guess….fuel pump? I can hear it clicking….. > What’s the check procedure for such an occurrence? > Respectfully to the Group, > Harpman

Harp, You need a fuel pressure gauge to test for proper fuel pressure <59-65 psi> to the injectors.  There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for this purpose.  I’d replace the fuel filter before I seven tarted thinking about the fuel pump! Doc

Response:

Yukon Problem – Please help

Question:

They have a service bulletin for this squeak noise from the parking brakes. There is a updated shoe retainer clip.  The bulletin is for noise from rear of vehicle.  Tahoe, Suburban, Avalanche and Silverado are involved.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well is the parking brake was never used it would never be adjusted (if the > auto-adjuster works that way). Or perhaps the mechanism stiffened up from > not using it. Either way, why not do the work yourself, a new rotor will > cost you $50-$100 (should replace in pairs, though you can replace a single > one) and parking brake mechanism or parts shouldn’t be that expensive > either. But either way you should get in the habit of using the parking > brake, if your transmissions pawl broke under the load your car would be > smashed up real bad as well as other cars, possibly hurting people, > especially if it was parked on a steep hill. It’s just common sense. > I bought a Yukon in aug 2000 from Peoria Pontiac GMC. > I just started hearing a scrapping noise and took it in to my closest > dealer( Lou Sabh in Scottsdale) > I was told it was coming from a e-brake on left side that came out of > alignment and destroyed the rooter.They said this is a wear issue and NOT > covered. My question is  - > how could this be a wear issue if the e-brake has NEVER been used.They > want > 601.00 to fix. I took the car to Peoria Pontiac GMC and tried to get them > to > fix it under warranty – they said this is a wear issue. without looking at > it. > Has anyone had this happen to thier Yukon or Tahoe? > Please let me know > Jay

Response:

Well is the parking brake was never used it would never be adjusted (if the auto-adjuster works that way). Or perhaps the mechanism stiffened up from not using it. Either way, why not do the work yourself, a new rotor will cost you $50-$100 (should replace in pairs, though you can replace a single one) and parking brake mechanism or parts shouldn’t be that expensive either. But either way you should get in the habit of using the parking brake, if your transmissions pawl broke under the load your car would be smashed up real bad as well as other cars, possibly hurting people, especially if it was parked on a steep hill. It’s just common sense.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a Yukon in aug 2000 from Peoria Pontiac GMC. > I just started hearing a scrapping noise and took it in to my closest > dealer( Lou Sabh in Scottsdale) > I was told it was coming from a e-brake on left side that came out of > alignment and destroyed the rooter.They said this is a wear issue and NOT > covered. My question is  - > how could this be a wear issue if the e-brake has NEVER been used.They want > 601.00 to fix. I took the car to Peoria Pontiac GMC and tried to get them to > fix it under warranty – they said this is a wear issue. without looking at > it. > Has anyone had this happen to thier Yukon or Tahoe? > Please let me know > Jay

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a Yukon in aug 2000 from Peoria Pontiac GMC. > I just started hearing a scrapping noise and took it in to my closest > dealer( Lou Sabh in Scottsdale) > I was told it was coming from a e-brake on left side that came out of > alignment and destroyed the rooter.They said this is a wear issue and NOT > covered. My question is  - > how could this be a wear issue if the e-brake has NEVER been used.They want > 601.00 to fix. I took the car to Peoria Pontiac GMC and tried to get them to > fix it under warranty – they said this is a wear issue. without looking at > it. > Has anyone had this happen to thier Yukon or Tahoe? > Please let me know > Jay

Jay, We have 01 Yukon and frankly the emergency brake problem is probably a safety issue.  Ours doesn’t hold worth a crap and didn’t new.  I haven’t looked at the rotor probably should though.  You probably ought to drop a note to the folks at NHTSA,  with a copy to a  GMC Vice President .

Response:

GM is great for trying to weasel out of warranty issues.  I had a rear windshield on a 2002 Sunfire shatter at 2000 miles.  GM said it was not their fault, due to vandalism.  I was there when it happened and I know it was a defective piece of glass.  Contact NHTSA, they may listen to your complaint. Larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I bought a Yukon in aug 2000 from Peoria Pontiac GMC. > I just started hearing a scrapping noise and took it in to my closest > dealer( Lou Sabh in Scottsdale) > I was told it was coming from a e-brake on left side that came out of > alignment and destroyed the rooter.They said this is a wear issue and NOT > covered. My question is  - > how could this be a wear issue if the e-brake has NEVER been used.They want > 601.00 to fix. I took the car to Peoria Pontiac GMC and tried to get them to > fix it under warranty – they said this is a wear issue. without looking at > it. > Has anyone had this happen to thier Yukon or Tahoe? > Please let me know > Jay

Response:

I bought a Yukon in aug 2000 from Peoria Pontiac GMC. I just started hearing a scrapping noise and took it in to my closest dealer( Lou Sabh in Scottsdale) I was told it was coming from a e-brake on left side that came out of alignment and destroyed the rooter.They said this is a wear issue and NOT covered. My question is  - how could this be a wear issue if the e-brake has NEVER been used.They want 601.00 to fix. I took the car to Peoria Pontiac GMC and tried to get them to fix it under warranty – they said this is a wear issue. without looking at it. Has anyone had this happen to thier Yukon or Tahoe? Please let me know Jay

Response:

97 Yukon klunk

Question:

>is it normal to hear a pronounced clunk when shifting my GMC Yukon from >four low to four high or two high? It has the electronic shifting >transfer case. >thanks

Yes.  When you go in and out of 4low, you’re changing gear ratios and there are no syncronizers in the t/case. — Old Crow ASE Master Tech   Chevy Master Tech ‘82 FLTC   ‘Pearl’ ‘84 S-10 4×4  350k miles and still going

Response:

yep. normal. my 97 tahoe does that too… — nick leinonen markham, ontario, canada http://community.webshots.com/user/nickleinonen . is it normal to hear a pronounced clunk when shifting my GMC Yukon from four low to four high or two high? It has the electronic shifting transfer case. thanks

Response:

is it normal to hear a pronounced clunk when shifting my GMC Yukon from four low to four high or two high? It has the electronic shifting transfer case. thanks

Response:

"Slash" wrote > is it normal to hear a pronounced clunk when shifting my GMC Yukon from > four low to four high or two high? It has the electronic shifting > transfer case.

Yes….any shifting in and out of Lo Range is usually accompanied by some pretty good clunks. Ian

Response:

92 GMC Yukon: A/C clutch bearing noisy!

Question:

THANKS! Doc. Got no answers elsewhere; appreciate your expertise. > The bearing can be bought at most auto parts stores.  You’ll need to rent an > A/C clutch puller to remove the clutch and replace the bearing.

– Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Response:

> THANKS! Doc. Got no answers elsewhere; appreciate your expertise. > The bearing can be bought at most auto parts stores.  You’ll need to rent an > A/C clutch puller to remove the clutch and replace the bearing. > — > Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

You’re welcome.  The clutch puller can be rented for free from Autozone (pay a deposit, get it back when tool is returned) if you have one nearby. Otherwise a True Value or General Rental will have one. Regards, Doc

Response:

The bearing in the A/C clutch has become very noisy. I can’t find anything in my aftermarket manuals about this bearing. How is it replaced? Is it a usual aftermarket part? Or dealer only?   Any replacement tips would be appreciated! — Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Response:

> The bearing in the A/C clutch has become very noisy. I can’t > find anything in my aftermarket manuals about this bearing. > How is it replaced? Is it a usual aftermarket part? > Or dealer only? > Any replacement tips would be appreciated! > — > Regards, Terry King …In The Woods In Vermont

Terry, The bearing can be bought at most auto parts stores.  You’ll need to rent an A/C clutch puller to remove the clutch and replace the bearing. Regards, Doc

Response: