Chrome Recovery Hooks for Yukon???

Question:

Does anyone know where I purchase a pair of chrome recovery hooks for my ‘04 Yukon? Thanks, John

Response:

jcwhitney

Response:

> jcwhitney

I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. — John

Response:

Chevy / GMC dealer ? or   Have yours chrome platted. There is so little hook showing do you need it to be chrome platted? Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE, 3800 V6

Response:

you could take yours off and have then chromed if you want just be careful using them or they’ll snap in half after chroming

Response:

So uhh– use a drill? Chrome hooks are VERY inadvisable. Hydroen embrittlemtn due to poor QC of the process comes to mind. When they snap under load, hope they don’t kill someone. <I have multiple hooks front and rear on my Jeep and my Blazer- all of them unchromed, and all well tested with no yielding at all…>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

Hooks are hooks, as long as you get the proper load rating. I got my 10,000lb hooks from Princess Auto for $5/piece. Self mount, done. But chrome…… you don’t actually plan on using them, do you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

Saw some in LMC truck that had a 10,000lb pull strength…. ~KJ~ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> So uhh– use a drill? > Chrome hooks are VERY inadvisable. Hydroen embrittlemtn due to poor QC of > the process comes to mind. When they snap under load, hope they don’t kill > someone. > <I have multiple hooks front and rear on my Jeep and my Blazer- all of them > unchromed, and all well tested with no yielding at all…> > > jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

I posted this last night, guess it didn’t go through for some reason. LMC Truck has them; Chrome Tow Hook Chrome Tow Hook has a 10,000 lb. capacity. Part: 38-1942 Description/Application: CHROME TOW HOOK 10,000 LB CAPACITY List: 13.69 Sell: 10.95 Basic small (looking) hook, comes to a ’sharp’ point (rather than a round point like OEM) and has a flattened mounting point with 2 holes in it. ~KJ~ Never bought from them, but I haven’t heard anything bad about them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hooks are hooks, as long as you get the proper load rating. I got my > 10,000lb hooks from Princess Auto for $5/piece. Self mount, done. But > chrome…… you don’t actually plan on using them, do you. > > jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

Saw some in LMC truck that had a 10,000lb pull strength…. ~KJ~ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> So uhh– use a drill? > Chrome hooks are VERY inadvisable. Hydroen embrittlemtn due to poor QC of > the process comes to mind. When they snap under load, hope they don’t kill > someone. > <I have multiple hooks front and rear on my Jeep and my Blazer- all of them > unchromed, and all well tested with no yielding at all…> > > jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

I posted this last night, guess it didn’t go through for some reason. LMC Truck has them; Chrome Tow Hook Chrome Tow Hook has a 10,000 lb. capacity. Part: 38-1942 Description/Application: CHROME TOW HOOK 10,000 LB CAPACITY List: 13.69 Sell: 10.95 Basic small (looking) hook, comes to a ’sharp’ point (rather than a round point like OEM) and has a flattened mounting point with 2 holes in it. ~KJ~ Never bought from them, but I haven’t heard anything bad about them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hooks are hooks, as long as you get the proper load rating. I got my > 10,000lb hooks from Princess Auto for $5/piece. Self mount, done. But > chrome…… you don’t actually plan on using them, do you. > > jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

Does anyone know where I purchase a pair of chrome recovery hooks for my ‘04 Yukon? Thanks, John

Response:

jcwhitney

Response:

> jcwhitney

I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. — John

Response:

you could take yours off and have then chromed if you want just be careful using them or they’ll snap in half after chroming

Response:

So uhh– use a drill? Chrome hooks are VERY inadvisable. Hydroen embrittlemtn due to poor QC of the process comes to mind. When they snap under load, hope they don’t kill someone. <I have multiple hooks front and rear on my Jeep and my Blazer- all of them unchromed, and all well tested with no yielding at all…>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

Hooks are hooks, as long as you get the proper load rating. I got my 10,000lb hooks from Princess Auto for $5/piece. Self mount, done. But chrome…… you don’t actually plan on using them, do you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> jcwhitney > I already tried JC Whitney. They only have recovery hooks for Jeeps. > — John

Response:

Buick LeSabre

Question:

I can’t give you any specific URL’s, but here’s a brief rundown of changes: 1986: Majorly downsized, redesigned,  and switched over from RWD V8 to FWD V6 1987: Flush fitting headlights added, along with optional ABS 1990: Body-colored bumpers added 1992: Completely redesigned; no more coupes, ABS standard 1997: Minor facelift; mainly cleaner-looking headlights 2000: Major redesign Check out www.traderonline.com , search for these years, most have pictures. Michael Semon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Pardon a newbie question, but >Is there a resource to see the various body styles of this car over the last >decade?  I’ve found much information on reliability and price of used >models, but I can’t tell the physical differences over the last few years. >Thanks in advance for any ideas >Jim

Response:

Pardon a newbie question, but Is there a resource to see the various body styles of this car over the last decade?  I’ve found much information on reliability and price of used models, but I can’t tell the physical differences over the last few years. Thanks in advance for any ideas Jim

Response:

I read on the Car and Driver website that the LeSabre name may be discontinued in 2005, and that it will also then have a V8 engine. Does anyone here know something about these plans? Thanks Ralph

Response:

Haven’t heard anything definate. The Buick Regal & Century will be dropped after 2004 for a single replacement to be called La Crosse ( only in the US ) and a different name for the Canadian version. There is talk of either redesigning or a complete replacememt ( including new names ) for the Park Avenue & Le Sabre for 2005 or 2006 and possibly one of them being a  rear wheel drive V 8. More than likely the Park would be the V8 RWD. But who knows? maybe both. Many models are under consideration for RWD. The 2004 1/2 Bonneville GXP ( SSEi replacement ) will feautre a V8 Northstar engine borrowed from the departing Oldsmobile Aurora. Bonneville is also one of the car to return to a rear wheel drive platform. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE, 3800 V6

Response:

| I read on the Car and Driver website that the LeSabre name may be | discontinued in 2005, and that it will also then have a V8 engine. Does | anyone here know something about these plans? | | Thanks | Ralph | | Confused.  How can the LeSabre name be "discontinued in 2005" AND "also have a V8 engine"?   Or are you asking a conditional question for the second part? e.g.  Will it be discontinued in 2005?  IF NOT, will the next version have a V8?

Response:

> The 2004 1/2 Bonneville GXP ( SSEi replacement ) will feautre a V8 > Northstar engine borrowed from the departing Oldsmobile Aurora.

Actually, it didn’t get the Aurora’s 4.0 V8, but Cadillac’s 4.6 V8.

Response:

James C. Reeves writes "Confused.  How can the LeSabre name be "discontinued in 2005" AND "also have a V8 engine"?   Or are you asking a conditional question for the second part? e.g.  Will it be discontinued in 2005?  IF NOT, will the next version have a V8?" New name and a V8

Response:

        I vote to retain the name "LeSabre" and put a V8 back in it.  The car NEVER should have had less than a V8.  Image mistake.  Bad marketing mistake .. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> James C. Reeves writes > "Confused.  How can the LeSabre name be "discontinued in 2005" AND "also > have a > V8 engine"?   Or are you asking a conditional question for the second part? > e.g.  Will it be discontinued in 2005?  IF NOT, will the next version have a > V8?" > New name and a V8

Response:

>         I vote to retain the name "LeSabre" and put a V8 back in it.  The > car NEVER should have had less than a V8.  Image mistake.  Bad marketing > mistake .. .

Shoot, toss both the LeSabre and Park Avenue names, stick a V8 in the same chassis, and bring out the Roasmaster label.

Response:

There’s something totally wrong about having a puny non-frame-on-body Roadmaster. They’d have to call it RoadJunior or RoadMistress instead. The Roadmaster is SUPPOSED to be a tank.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->         I vote to retain the name "LeSabre" and put a V8 back in it. The > car NEVER should have had less than a V8.  Image mistake.  Bad marketing > mistake .. . > Shoot, toss both the LeSabre and Park Avenue names, stick a V8 in the > same chassis, and bring out the Roasmaster label.

Response:

> There’s something totally wrong about having a puny non-frame-on-body > Roadmaster. They’d have to call it RoadJunior or RoadMistress instead. The > Roadmaster is SUPPOSED to be a tank.

Well, it has some history behind it.  Me?  I’d go for a frame and RWD and keep it LeSabre sized. GM has a big problem right now – virtually all of their profits are tied up in fleet sales and they have an immense amount of redundancy and bloat. It confuses customers and wastes time and money. My suggestion would be: Cadillac – top end. Buick – Middle-end cars.  Family sedans.  3-4 offerings to compete with the Toyota Camry and simmilar. Ponitac – budget and sporty cars.  Vibe, Grand Prix, something under the Trans Am label again, and so on. Chevrolet – All SUVs and pickups.  ONE car would remain under the label, the Corvette.  Chevy is 99% trucks otherwise.  Names would denote trim lines instead.  Ie – a Yukon is the standard model and a Surburban is the XL model. GMC – C4500 and above – only commercial vehicles. No overlap.  All other lines removed.  Half as many individual offerings – and more attention to each specific line instead of making 3-4 types of the same car.

Response:

Buick should be two models standard and deluxe, standard a inline-six with 3speed colum shift, and deluxe with straight eight and two-speed automatic…..by the way they weighed about 6000lbs 0-60 was about half an hour…..<g>…. If you had electrical trouble you just hooked a jumper +batt. to +coil and let it roll down a hill lol now it takes how many electronic management systems to build a car?? he he don’t mind me I’m an old man with an additude…..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There’s something totally wrong about having a puny non-frame-on-body > Roadmaster. They’d have to call it RoadJunior or RoadMistress instead. The > Roadmaster is SUPPOSED to be a tank. > Well, it has some history behind it.  Me?  I’d go for a frame and RWD > and keep it LeSabre sized. > GM has a big problem right now – virtually all of their profits are tied > up in fleet sales and they have an immense amount of redundancy and bloat. > It confuses customers and wastes time and money. > My suggestion would be: > Cadillac – top end. > Buick – Middle-end cars.  Family sedans.  3-4 offerings to compete with > the Toyota Camry and simmilar. > Ponitac – budget and sporty cars.  Vibe, Grand Prix, something under the > Trans Am label again, and so on. > Chevrolet – All SUVs and pickups.  ONE car would remain under the label, > the Corvette.  Chevy is 99% trucks otherwise.  Names would denote trim > lines instead.  Ie – a Yukon is the standard model and a Surburban is the > XL model. > GMC – C4500 and above – only commercial vehicles. > No overlap.  All other lines removed.  Half as many individual offerings > – and more attention to each specific line instead of making 3-4 types > of the same car.

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Response:

|         I vote to retain the name "LeSabre" and put a V8 back in it.  The | car NEVER should have had less than a V8.  Image mistake.  Bad marketing | mistake .. . | |

| > James C. Reeves writes | > | > "Confused.  How can the LeSabre name be "discontinued in 2005" AND "also | > have a | > V8 engine"?   Or are you asking a conditional question for the second | part? | > e.g.  Will it be discontinued in 2005?  IF NOT, will the next version have | a | > V8?" | > | > New name and a V8 | > | > | CAFE standards killed the V8 more so than marketing.

Response:

Denali Grill without the GMC Emblem?

Question:

I have a ‘04 Yukon.  I’m looking for a Denali grill without the GMC emblem.  I’ve seen a lot of aftermarket grills for the Yukon, but I haven’t been able to find a grill that looks exactly like the OE Denali grill without the GMC emblem.  If anyone has seen one, please let me know. Thanks, John

Response:

have you checked ebay???

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘04 Yukon.  I’m looking for a Denali grill without the GMC > emblem.  I’ve seen a lot of aftermarket grills for the Yukon, but I > haven’t been able to find a grill that looks exactly like the OE > Denali grill without the GMC emblem.  If anyone has seen one, please > let me know. > Thanks, > John

Response:

Service engine soon light on–do-it-yourself or better off at shop?

Question:

> lights that come on and go off are usually, but not always, O2-sensor > related he > he he. > Doc

Response:

What were the conditions when the light came on??  Towing, climbing a hill??? Misfires are also a common cause…. Light flashes during the misfire condition and goes solid to let you know there was an error recorded.   The light will go off after a certain number of key cycles or trip cycles.  It’s in your owners manual which also suggests poor fuel or a change in fuel grade.   I had similar issues and discovered the valve guides were sticking and spent $1300.00 for a head job.  This seems to have fixed the problem as I have a ton more power climbing hills and towing. Bomber – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> lights that come on and go off are usually, but not always, O2-sensor > related > > after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! > > what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed > > on > until problem fixed and light reset > Not necessarily, if it finds a issue it will flash until it is taken > care of…  The problem may be intermediate so it will come and go. > I would still get it scanned the code will still be in the computer > and now you > have > a little time to get it fixed or figure out how to do it yourself > before > it > comes a major problem. > mark

Response:

> lights that come on and go off are usually, but not always, O2-sensor > related

he he. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! > > what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed on > until problem fixed and light reset > Not necessarily, if it finds a issue it will flash until it is taken care > of…  The problem may be intermediate so it will come and go.  I would > still get it scanned the code will still be in the computer and now you > have > a little time to get it fixed or figure out how to do it yourself before > it > comes a major problem. > mark

Response:

 (top post) When you start your truck the pcm scannd the sensors to check for an error…When it finds one the light will come on…On some sensors when the PCM doesnt detect a fault within a number of start ups if will turn out the light thus letting you know it is not detecting a fault…..But the code will be stored in its memory….It may be nothing but for $20.00 most places around here  i dont know about where your at …Will scan for codes….Intermitted or not …Ca really say for sure if its gonna be a problem unless we have a code… Steve C   Re: Service engine soon light on–do-it-yourself or better off at shop?   lights that come on and go off are usually, but not always, O2-sensor related

after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed on until problem fixed and light reset Not necessarily, if it finds a issue it will flash until it is taken care of… The problem may be intermediate so it will come and go. I would still get it scanned the code will still be in the computer and now you have a little time to get it fixed or figure out how to do it yourself before it comes a major problem. mark

Response:

lights that come on and go off are usually, but not always, O2-sensor related

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! > what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed on > until problem fixed and light reset > Not necessarily, if it finds a issue it will flash until it is taken care > of…  The problem may be intermediate so it will come and go.  I would > still get it scanned the code will still be in the computer and now you have > a little time to get it fixed or figure out how to do it yourself before it > comes a major problem. > mark

Response:

> after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! > what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed on

until problem fixed and light reset I had a 98 Chev. 5.7 and it did the exact same thing. One of the secondary o2 sensor heating element was beginning to go south.

Response:

> after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! > what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed on

until problem fixed and light reset Not necessarily, if it finds a issue it will flash until it is taken care of…  The problem may be intermediate so it will come and go.  I would still get it scanned the code will still be in the computer and now you have a little time to get it fixed or figure out how to do it yourself before it comes a major problem. mark

Response:

1999 gmc yukon 38k I’m wondering if this is pre-programmed thing like chrysler is famous for or do I have a problem? seems to run fine–mileage is normal–any suggestions? I was thinking about buying one of those hand held computers from local store and attempting fix myself–although I may be just wasting my time and $$

Response:

without knowing why it’s on, we’re kinda shooting in the dark here Have it scanned and tell us what codes were stored

> 1999 gmc yukon 38k I’m wondering if this is pre-programmed thing like

chrysler is famous for or do I have a problem? > seems to run fine–mileage is normal–any suggestions? > I was thinking about buying one of those hand held computers from local

store and attempting fix myself–although I may be just wasting my time and $$ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

after driving a few places today–the light is now off!! what the #%!$# I thought that once that light was on that it stayed on until problem fixed and light reset

Response:

> 1999 gmc yukon 38k I’m wondering if this is pre-programmed thing like

chrysler is famous for or do I have a problem? > seems to run fine–mileage is normal–any suggestions? > I was thinking about buying one of those hand held computers from local

store and attempting fix myself–although I may be just wasting my time and $$ As far as I know GM does not flash the light at maintenance intervals.  Go to a national auto or similar parts store they generally will let you borrow a scanner or will do it for you.  Sometimes it is something that easy to fix, sometimes not… mark

Response:

95 GMC Yukon — Brake Advice

Question:

Hi All,         I’m going to be installing front brakes on my friend’s Yukon tomorrow and have a question. I have done installation on a few imports and the only thing that they include is usually two pieces of plastic on the side of the brakes which you would put mykote grease to prevent vibration. I bought today the AC Delco brakes and noticed that there are a few washer gaskets and  plastic caps. Could anyone please tell me what they are used for? Sorry to be a pest….I just want to be sure ahead of time weather I’ll need to go and get a Hayes book or not. Thanks, Nick

Response:

"Nick" wrote> > I’m going to be installing front brakes on my friend’s Yukon tomorrow and

have a question. I have done installation on a few imports and t > only thing that they include is usually two pieces of plastic on the side

of the brakes which you would put mykote grease to prevent vibratio > bought today the AC Delco brakes and noticed that there are a few washer

gaskets and  plastic caps. Could anyone please tell me what th > for? Sorry to be a pest….I just want to be sure ahead of time weather

I’ll need to go and get a Hayes book or not. Those items are usually for the caliper pins that hold the caliper to the knuckle. Once you remove the caliper and get the pins out of the way, you should be able to see the old stuff…..and determine what shape they are in.  You can then replace the rubber components.  Make sure you clean the pins/bolts up well and lube them and the rubber components with the supplied packet of grease.  And spread some of that grease on the back of the brake pads where they contact the piston and the caliper.  Also make sure that you clean off the surfaces of the caliper and the knuckle where they will be in contact, and the areas where the brake pads and the caliper will be in contact. Ian

Response:

Thanks for the info…Worked like charm! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >"Nick" wrote> > I’m going to be installing front brakes on my friend’s Yukon tomorrow and >have a question. I have done installation on a few imports and t > only thing that they include is usually two pieces of plastic on the side >of the brakes which you would put mykote grease to prevent vibratio > bought today the AC Delco brakes and noticed that there are a few washer >gaskets and  plastic caps. Could anyone please tell me what th > for? Sorry to be a pest….I just want to be sure ahead of time weather >I’ll need to go and get a Hayes book or not. >Those items are usually for the caliper pins that hold the caliper to the >knuckle. >Once you remove the caliper and get the pins out of the way, you should >be able to see the old stuff…..and determine what shape they are in.  You >can then replace the rubber components.  Make sure you clean the pins/bolts >up well and lube them and the rubber components with the supplied packet >of grease.  And spread some of that grease on the back of the brake pads >where they contact the piston and the caliper.  Also make sure that you >clean >off the surfaces of the caliper and the knuckle where they will be in >contact, >and the areas where the brake pads and the caliper will be in contact. >Ian

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Response:

What's a good tire recommendation?

Question:

I”ve got a pair of BFG AT/KO on the rear and so far theye brought me 45000K and still about 6to 8 mm left, altough i”ve got a rough riding style. Great tyres, stick with them! Marc (the flying Dutchman) ”88 K15004X4 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

You want the best get toyo open country +4

Response:

Depends on what you’re looking for!!  do you want long wearing mileage? quiet highway driving?  extreme offroad traction?  punction resistance??? and don’t say ALL OF THE ABOVE, cause you won’t get it in one tire.  I’m a hunter, and take my 91 K1500 way further than I should into the bush…the tires the truck came with had rocks put thru them the first time out… I looked around and landed on a set of Kelly tires….TrailMark D/T  (deep tread).  VERY aggressive tread, 8 ply, E load range, and very strong.  They do howl on the highway, but have big tread blocks and grooves that seem to deal with water quite well.  However, in the bush, they are hard to beat.  I have YET to put a rock thru em (on my 3rd season now)…and snow performance is unreal….i’m sure the aggressive tread has something to do with it. Towing performance is great as well….pulling a fully enclosed 22 foot racecar trailer with a pro-street car loaded up caused the truck to sag some (even with overloads on it), but the tires did NOT bulge as I expected… I’ve got aobut 38,000 km on them now, and they are about at the "halfway point".  I’d say another 25K KM will be it for em, so thats decent wear for an aggressive tire…about the same as the BFG a/t’s.  I like mine because they are different…most people ask "where’d ya get those"!! b

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

www.tirerack.com Click on the link above and locate some possibilities for tires and you can compare them. It is a fairly objective comparison and it covers ALLOT of aspects of tires!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

I have a 97 yukon with stock suspension and I just replaced my 285/75-16 BFG AT ko’s with ProComp All Terrains of the same size. So far I really like them. They are the only all terrain tire with both a 50000 mile warranty and severe traction rating in all 50 states. I got them buy 3 get 1 free but I think that sale ended on Halloween. Check 4 Wheel Parts. By the way I got 58000 miles out of my BFG’s. The ProComps look a lot like the BFG’s.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

I agree with you. If you want something that will last forever and never get punctures, the harder the better, But don’t expect to ever leave the pavement, and carry chains for winter. I live in the northern part of Canada. (Too far I think. I grow weary of paying $5.50 for 4 litres of milk, and 95.5 cents per litre for gas) I drive in some very treacherous conditions. I just purchased 4 new BFG A/T for my 4wd Yukon and am very happy with the traction and handling. I have also ran Hankook Z36 and was quite happy with the overall traction and wear of them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Depends on what you’re looking for!!  do you want long wearing mileage? > quiet highway driving?  extreme offroad traction?  punction resistance??? > and don’t say ALL OF THE ABOVE, cause you won’t get it in one tire.  I’m a > hunter, and take my 91 K1500 way further than I should into the bush…the > tires the truck came with had rocks put thru them the first time out… > I looked around and landed on a set of Kelly tires….TrailMark D/T  (deep > tread).  VERY aggressive tread, 8 ply, E load range, and very strong. They > do howl on the highway, but have big tread blocks and grooves that seem to > deal with water quite well.  However, in the bush, they are hard to beat. I > have YET to put a rock thru em (on my 3rd season now)…and snow performance > is unreal….i’m sure the aggressive tread has something to do with it. > Towing performance is great as well….pulling a fully enclosed 22 foot > racecar trailer with a pro-street car loaded up caused the truck to sag some > (even with overloads on it), but the tires did NOT bulge as I expected… > I’ve got aobut 38,000 km on them now, and they are about at the "halfway > point".  I’d say another 25K KM will be it for em, so thats decent wear for > an aggressive tire…about the same as the BFG a/t’s.  I like mine because > they are different…most people ask "where’d ya get those"!! > b > Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

I’m on my second set of Michelin LTX on my 92 S10 Blazer.  They have a great ride and decent snow and rain traction.  I drive highway only. Rarely ever drive on gravel.  I have 91K on my current set and they are in need of replacing.  My last set got around 89K if I remember right. Good tires.  If you look at the sipes on them, they go all the way down. Goodyear and other only go halfway down.  The dealer told me this allows for better traction and wear.  I believe him so far. Lannie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->    I personally would stick with the BFG A/T’s! If you REALLY want something > different, Michelin LTX A/T would be my next recommendation. Third would be > the Goodyear Wrangler AT/S. >    As for going taller, you WILL NEED to have your computer recalibrated to > compensate if you do. Speedometer, shift points, converter lock-up, and > such, will be adversely effected. >    As for tire size, 285/75-16 will fit on the stock rims and suspension. If > your rims are narrower than 7inch however, you will have a bit too much > sidewall flex and the vehicle will feel somewhat unstable. 265’s are > available in BFG load range D, Goodyear  in load range C and E, and Michelin > in load range C, 285’s are only available in the BFG’s and Goodyear’s, both > with load range D. >    I only did a quick check on Tire Rack, www.tirerack.com . There might be > more load ranges available through someone else, the same for sizes of the > three. > Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

>Hi, >1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. >Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. >What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? >The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have >performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. >What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does >not have any suspension modifications. >Thanks!

I also have about 30K on my BFG All Terrain T/A KO’s.  Gonna have to replace them after winter.  Will be doing brakes and tires.  I’m looking at the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo II’s.  They have a nice looking tread pattern and will probably get better wet traction than these have given me.  I’m unimpressed with that aspect of my BFG’s, they suck in the rain, to be blunt, and considering how much rain we’ve had, 3 inches more than avg. so far this year, if next year is the same I’ll REALLY want better tires…

Response:

LTX AT  265 16     great tire. 65,ooo on mine and they are still going strong  25  gmc hd — 27 weeks to go , but who is counting Gary and Karla , that’s who !

Response:

i have a set of toyo open country A/T’s on my 2000 trk and love them. there LT245-75-16 dontgo off road enough to say i do, BUT have been in some good wet mud and they were great.

Response:

Hi, 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does not have any suspension modifications. Thanks!

Response:

   I personally would stick with the BFG A/T’s! If you REALLY want something different, Michelin LTX A/T would be my next recommendation. Third would be the Goodyear Wrangler AT/S.    As for going taller, you WILL NEED to have your computer recalibrated to compensate if you do. Speedometer, shift points, converter lock-up, and such, will be adversely effected.    As for tire size, 285/75-16 will fit on the stock rims and suspension. If your rims are narrower than 7inch however, you will have a bit too much sidewall flex and the vehicle will feel somewhat unstable. 265’s are available in BFG load range D, Goodyear  in load range C and E, and Michelin in load range C, 285’s are only available in the BFG’s and Goodyear’s, both with load range D.    I only did a quick check on Tire Rack, www.tirerack.com . There might be more load ranges available through someone else, the same for sizes of the three.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > 1996 GMC Suburban K2500 4X4 3/4 Ton. > Well, it’s time to get new tires and I’m would like some suggestions. > What do you think of Pirelli Scorpions? > The old tires are BF Goodrich LT265/75R/16 all terrain. These have > performed well but have worn out in about 30K miles. > What’s the largest size tires I can get away with? The vehicle does > not have any suspension modifications. > Thanks!

Response:

Coolent leak

Question:

"Bomber"  wrote > Needless to say I’m having a local shop do it this time.  Time on the books > they use to quote jobs is 5.7 hours.  This shop charges $60 per hour.  I > asked how long would it really take, 4 hours.  I’m still paying for 6. > $440 was the quote with oil, coolant and gasket set.

I need to get those books they use….5.7 hrs???? Give me a break. About the most you can get out of any of the books for this job is about 4.5 hrs.  I’ll tell you a little scam that I’ve seen some techs use on this job.  When you do an intake gasket on a Vortec v-8 you have to remove one valve cover in order to get the manifold out. This is "part" of the job, but I’ve seen tech’s go to the time book and add the valve cover R & R time to the intake manifold gasket time.  That’s not really fair to the customer.  I just had a peek in the Mitchell time guide, lower intake pays 4.1 hrs with A/C and cruise control, add perhaps .4 for changing the oil and you are up to 4.5 hrs.  One valve cover pays 1.2 hrs…bingo…there is your 5.7 hr job.  You might want to just nicely discuss this with them when you get the bill.  Armed with a little bit of knowledge you ought to be able to get that 1.2 hrs removed as you can correctly tell them that at least one valve cover "has" to be removed (either one, doesn’t matter) in order to get the manifold out. Oh, and it only takes about 2 hrs to do the job and do it correctly. Sorry about your luck with the RTV at the rear of the intake.  That’s one of the reasons that I get paid the big bucks, I can do the job in 2 hrs and not have it leak.  That is quite a normal mistake for a newbie doing one of these for the first time. Ian

Response:

Price of gaskets, and about 4hrs for the pre-vortec. Most of the time was devoted to cleaning the gasket surfaces. Gaskets were brittle and hard as a rock. Cheers – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I believe this has been mentioned before. > I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake on the > driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. > There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion areas > yet. > Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the gasket > all of a suddenly completely fail? > To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally paying. > Thank you

Response:

"Martin Riddle" wrote > Price of gaskets, and about 4hrs for the pre-vortec. Most of the time was

devoted to cleaning the > gasket surfaces. Gaskets were brittle and hard as a rock.

This is the great thing about the new style gaskets on the Vortecs and 60degree v-6’s, they just peel right off and leave very little to clean up on both the cylinder head and intake manifold.  Double bonus for the technician (sorry, owners), they leak a lot, and they are easy to clean and prep for the new gasket. Ian

Response:

The leak will get worse but how fast is any one’s guess. It’s about 4 hours to do correctly. It depends on how much your local labor rate is.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I believe this has been mentioned before. > I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake on the > driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. > There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion areas > yet. > Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the gasket > all of a suddenly completely fail? > To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally paying. > Thank you

Response:

I replaced the gaskets on mine (‘99 350 GMC Yukon) Friday.  Relatively easy just time consuming, 7 hours moving slowly and deliberately.  I screwed up on the silicon at the rear of the block and now it leaks oil.   Needless to say I’m having a local shop do it this time.  Time on the books they use to quote jobs is 5.7 hours.  This shop charges $60 per hour.  I asked how long would it really take, 4 hours.  I’m still paying for 6.   $440 was the quote with oil, coolant and gasket set. I am in Southern California. If I get another 60K out of it before it starts leaking again, I’ll just take it to the shop again.  Too much time lost, even if I had done it right the first time. Steve "Bomber" Baum – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I believe this has been mentioned before. > I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake > on the driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. > There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion > areas yet. > Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the > gasket all of a suddenly completely fail? > To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally > paying. > Thank you

Response:

I believe this has been mentioned before. I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake on the driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion areas yet. Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the gasket all of a suddenly completely fail? To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally paying. Thank you

Response:

> I believe this has been mentioned before. > I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake on the > driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. > There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion areas > yet. > Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the gasket > all of a suddenly completely fail?

It will slowly get progressively worse.  Bad news is that letting it go for a period of time will tend to corrosion etch the mating surfaces making a bad situation worse. > To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally paying.

I dunno, I did my own. VLJ — If it has tits or tires, its gonna be trouble.

Response:

Hi Steve,my 89 gmc 350 leaked at the front of the intake,had to remove intake and get it welded the resurface had it fluxed for cracks and replaced,about 450.canadian.The antifreeze had deteriated the gasket, was lucky it went to the outside instead of inside.Your labour will cost more as it most likely is a vortec 350,they are harder to work on.Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I believe this has been mentioned before. > I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake on the > driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. > There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion areas > yet. > Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the gasket > all of a suddenly completely fail? > To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally paying. > Thank you

Response:

This is a problem that is quite prominent on the 350 vortecs when they get about 4 or 5 years in age. I had a 98 chev that had this happen to. I was about to change it, but traded off instead. GM quoted me about 400 – 500 cdn.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I believe this has been mentioned before. > I have what appears to be coolant leaking out the front of my intake on the > driver side of my 1999 GMC PU with a 350. > There is no evidence of any coolant getting into the oil or combustion areas > yet. > Can anybody tell me if I have sometime to get this fixed or does the gasket > all of a suddenly completely fail? > To those of you who have had this repair what were you generally paying. > Thank you

Response:

Leaky power steering pump? '97 Yukon

Question:

……. Leaky power steering pump? ‘97 Yukon   What’s the typical fix for a tablespoon-a-day power steering pump fluid leak? 1997 GMC Yukon w/65K on the odometer. TIA to all! Harp Finding the leak and fixing it. .gibson6string..

Response:

for your help!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Harpman"  wrote > What’s the typical fix for a tablespoon-a-day power steering pump fluid > leak? > 1997 GMC Yukon w/65K on the odometer. > I guess it depends on where it’s leaking from on the > ps pump.  Usually, my experience has been that the > shaft seal  leaks.  Very common. > Ian

Response:

What’s the typical fix for a tablespoon-a-day power steering pump fluid leak? 1997 GMC Yukon w/65K on the odometer. TIA to all! Harp

Response:

"Harpman"  wrote > What’s the typical fix for a tablespoon-a-day power steering pump fluid > leak? > 1997 GMC Yukon w/65K on the odometer.

I guess it depends on where it’s leaking from on the ps pump.  Usually, my experience has been that the shaft seal  leaks.  Very common. Ian

Response:

New 2003 Yukon , Yukon XL or Tahoe LT – any opinions?

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m consdering getting a Chevy Tahoe LT 4WD or a GMC Yukon/Yukon XL. > I’m leaning towards the GMC because I prefer the look of the grill in > the front. > Does anyone have opions of why one is better than the other?  I know > they’re basically the same. > How is the Bose speakers in the Tahoe, any good? > Thanks. > -z >Just bought the Tahoe a couple weeks ago and I can’t tell you how >amazing this vehicle is.  The comfort factor is spectacular and the >convenience features are amazing.  Not sure what is standard in the >Yukon but the personalization in the LT is just perfect.  As an >example, based on which key we use to remotely open the vehicle, the >seats, mirrors even the radio station presets all automatically adjust >to the last settings you used (it even picks up where I left off on >the CD I’m listening to).

That’s what I figured.  I’m hearing good things about the Tahoe.  How is the stereo system in  the Tahoe, the one w/ the Bose speakers.  I have a 4Runner that came with JBL 6 speakers or something like that, to me it just doesn’t sound that great.  I was hoping the system in the Tahoe would be much better.  My wife has a Mercedes with Bose speakers and the sound is incredible, crystal clear. Thanks, -z

Response:

Yukon and Tahoe are built side by side at the same plant.  They are the same except for the emblems, grills, and the way the options are packaged. Equalled equipped (which is hard to do because of the way the options are packaged) the Tahoe is a few hundred cheaper than the Yukon. Jerry H.– retired GMC sales manager

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m consdering getting a Chevy Tahoe LT 4WD or a GMC Yukon/Yukon XL. > I’m leaning towards the GMC because I prefer the look of the grill in > the front. > Does anyone have opions of why one is better than the other?  I know > they’re basically the same. > How is the Bose speakers in the Tahoe, any good? > Thanks. > -z

Response:

> That’s what I figured.  I’m hearing good things about the Tahoe.  How > is the stereo system in  the Tahoe, the one w/ the Bose speakers.  I > have a 4Runner that came with JBL 6 speakers or something like that, > to me it just doesn’t sound that great.  I was hoping the system in > the Tahoe would be much better.  My wife has a Mercedes with Bose > speakers and the sound is incredible, crystal clear.

They are great vehicles. After years being kind of stripped down, in 1999-2000 GM finally got it with their C/K models and their redesign reflected a HUGE increase in convenience features addressing many things lacking in previous models. In 2003, they kick the convenience features up a notch. As to the stereo, have you ever been to a high-end audio shop and listened to three or four sets of $2000-plus home speakers? These pricey speakers all reflect what their designer believes represents the pinnacle of audio clarity, yet invariably they all sound different. My experience is that you would be nuts to expect a nirvana-inducing audio experience from any factory-installed automobile stereo system. HMc

Response:

I’m consdering getting a Chevy Tahoe LT 4WD or a GMC Yukon/Yukon XL. I’m leaning towards the GMC because I prefer the look of the grill in the front. Does anyone have opions of why one is better than the other?  I know they’re basically the same. How is the Bose speakers in the Tahoe, any good? Thanks. -z

Response:

> I’m consdering getting a Chevy Tahoe LT 4WD or a GMC Yukon/Yukon XL. > I’m leaning towards the GMC because I prefer the look of the grill in > the front. > Does anyone have opions of why one is better than the other?  I know > they’re basically the same. > How is the Bose speakers in the Tahoe, any good? > Thanks. > -z

Just bought the Tahoe a couple weeks ago and I can’t tell you how amazing this vehicle is.  The comfort factor is spectacular and the convenience features are amazing.  Not sure what is standard in the Yukon but the personalization in the LT is just perfect.  As an example, based on which key we use to remotely open the vehicle, the seats, mirrors even the radio station presets all automatically adjust to the last settings you used (it even picks up where I left off on the CD I’m listening to).

Response:

Can I Buy GM parts online, instead of going to dealer?

Question:

> That is right!  I forgot about that.  Maybe this is why sometimes the > ECM is picking this > up and other times its not.  What do you insulate connections with > after soldering?  And > which kind of solder should I use? > Hatt

I usually just use the generic solder from Radio Shack (64-004 which is standard 60/40 solder for electronics) and a 100 watt gun from wal mart (will be cheaper at wm).  Slip over one of the wires a piece of shrink tubing (also from Radio Shack) then twist the wires together.  Carefully heat the bare ends with the tip of the soldering gun while touching the wire with the solder.  When the wires get hot enough they will melt the solder and the solder will wick into the wire.  When both wires are coated with lead just let cool and the straighten out; then cover with the shrink tubing.  Use a lighter to carefully heat the shrink tubing and you are done. If you don’t want to use the shrink tubing then just carefully wrap them with electrical tape, which will work fine and will not be dangerous with having an open flame near gasoline….. good luck, mark

Response:

> Hmmmm, the same shop that put the wrong speaker in my Yukon when it > died…..

I can’t expound on the sales or service end of the dealership but I have to say I was impressed with the parts guys. Holman GMC is where I’ve bought both of my trucks and I couldn’t be happier with the service dept or the sales dept. Too bad they are an hour (each way) for us west siders. I can tell you that I went to Sweeney GMC in Queensgate for my sticking throttle body and was not at all happy with their work. Joshua

Response:

I got the TPS connector for my 87 K5 at Advanced Auto Parts in the HELP section. Good Luck      JR — Computer Tips & Tweaks www.acon-pchelp.com — A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always count on Paul’s support.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I will remember Joseph GMC in Cicny….problem is I am in Cleveland LOL J

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks Mark,  I’ll check into this, please check out the thread also > today with the subject > "service engine light soon." > I looked at the other thread… try to solder the connections if possible. > Butt-connectors can introduce too much resistance and cause problems.  Keep > working on it eventually you will figure out what the problem is and you can > say to yourself that you saved a lot of money. > good luck, > mark

That is right!  I forgot about that.  Maybe this is why sometimes the ECM is picking this up and other times its not.  What do you insulate connections with after soldering?  And which kind of solder should I use? Hatt —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I haven’t seen any car quests that I can think of right now, but I’ll check. Thanks, Hatt

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Power path makes OEM style connectors, got a Car Quest around? I do > mail order some stuff since I hate paying six bucks for a PF-59 oil > filter but we get boned for everything here. Try > http://gmpartsdirect.com > Have a great one! >I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me >I have to go to a dealer for it. >I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like >this online? >Hatt >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Thanks, I looked here pretty hard online,  no go. Hatt

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I got the TPS connector for my 87 K5 at Advanced Auto Parts in the HELP > section. > Good Luck >      JR > — > Computer Tips & Tweaks > www.acon-pchelp.com > — > A government that robs Peter to pay Paul > can always count on Paul’s support. > I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Try your local NAPA parts house.  Check the dealers cost, many times they are competitive (not cheaper but within a few dollars).  I am always shocked but the dealer is sometimes about the same as the local Kragen (also known as Checkers & Schucks in different parts of the USA), other times not. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Markup mostly. > why not the dealer ? > if the parts guy is any good at all, he can have it ordered before > you find > it on-line > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy > store) > > I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell > me > > I have to go to a dealer for it. > > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts > like > > this online? > > Hatt > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—– > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Power path makes OEM style connectors, got a Car Quest around? I do mail order some stuff since I hate paying six bucks for a PF-59 oil filter but we get boned for everything here. Try http://gmpartsdirect.com Have a great one! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me >I have to go to a dealer for it. >I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like >this online? >Hatt >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> Thanks Mark,  I’ll check into this, please check out the thread also > today with the subject > "service engine light soon."

I looked at the other thread… try to solder the connections if possible. Butt-connectors can introduce too much resistance and cause problems.  Keep working on it eventually you will figure out what the problem is and you can say to yourself that you saved a lot of money. good luck, mark

Response:

> Thanks for the info.  I found 8 trucks like mine in a junkyard, but > not one of them > had the throttle body in it.  Most of them didn’t even have any engine > at all.  I found > a throttle body at another one though.  I didn’t know I needed a > connector then.  I > got it just to tear apart so I knew what they were about. > Its not the TPS I’m after.  Those you can get at > a parts store.  I’m after the connector. > Hatt

Your local autoparts store should have blanks that will allow you to make your own pigtails.  I know that my local Napa has the blanks as I made my own water proof connections when I converted my ‘83 6.2 diesel to a ‘91 glow plug system.  Look around, changing the plug on the TPS to the correct should not be a big problem as long as you know the proper wiring order and are sure the TPS will generate the correct voltages for your ECM. good luck, mark

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for the info.  I found 8 trucks like mine in a junkyard, but > not one of them > had the throttle body in it.  Most of them didn’t even have any engine > at all.  I found > a throttle body at another one though.  I didn’t know I needed a > connector then.  I > got it just to tear apart so I knew what they were about. > Its not the TPS I’m after.  Those you can get at > a parts store.  I’m after the connector. > Hatt > Your local autoparts store should have blanks that will allow you to make > your own pigtails.  I know that my local Napa has the blanks as I made my > own water proof connections when I converted my ‘83 6.2 diesel to a ‘91 glow > plug system.  Look around, changing the plug on the TPS to the correct > should not be a big problem as long as you know the proper wiring order and > are sure the TPS will generate the correct voltages for your ECM. > good luck, > mark

Thanks Mark,  I’ll check into this, please check out the thread also today with the subject "service engine light soon." Hatt —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Hmmmm, the same shop that put the wrong speaker in my Yukon when it died….. The same shop that tried to convince me that I brought the same Yukon in with busted plastic under the wiper arms when the circuit board was replaced under recall. Plastic that busted because the arm was forced on one notch to far to the left…… The same dealer that gave a who cares attitude when I was wanting to price out an ‘03 2500HD and took absolutely no steps to do such and acted like it was a MAJOR effort and pain in the arse to even do a search to see if said truck already existed anywhere….. The same shop where the first sales droid I was speaking with took a call on his cell phone from A FRIEND ABOUT THE EVENING PLANS when already talking with me, a prospective customer…. He wasn’t getting the sale no matter what else transpired….. Oh yeah, the sales droid also somehow forgot from the showroom to the lot that I was looking for specific things in a 2500HD and showed me a LONG line of 1500 series trucks and then asks "Well hey, did you see anything you liked?" HELLO!!!! WHERE ARE THE FREAKIN’ 2500HDs????? Maybe a good parts shop, but A LOT else left to be desired…..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy store) > A good parts guy is worth his weight in gold.  Too bad they > are underpaid. > I’ll second that. Went to the dealer last week in search of a > transmission train plug. They didn’t have one but he remembered they > were tearing apart an Avalanche in the shop. I gladly paid full price > for a used drain plug. Joseph GMC in Cincinnati for those who care. > Joshua

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt > The local dealer is your best source of advice and parts.  If your local one > is not to your liking… or they are too expensive then look for another one > in a nearby town… > http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/  —> I can not tell you if their prices are > good or how their service is as I get my parts at local parts shops, PepBoys > or the local GMC truck shop but they seem to have a nice selection of parts. > If all else fails you can go to a junk yard and get the whole throttle body. > I just got a catalog from LMC truck they do have tps’s for my suburban > listed ($30) so they may have one for your truck…

http://www.lmctruck.com > good luck > mark

Thanks for the info.  I found 8 trucks like mine in a junkyard, but not one of them had the throttle body in it.  Most of them didn’t even have any engine at all.  I found a throttle body at another one though.  I didn’t know I needed a connector then.  I got it just to tear apart so I knew what they were about. Its not the TPS I’m after.  Those you can get at a parts store.  I’m after the connector. Hatt —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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Markup mostly.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> why not the dealer ? > if the parts guy is any good at all, he can have it ordered before you find > it on-line > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy store) > I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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by the time you pay shipping on a measly TPS, you will have spent as much or more than the dealer gets

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Markup mostly. > why not the dealer ? > if the parts guy is any good at all, he can have it ordered before > you find > it on-line > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy > store) > > I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell > me > > I have to go to a dealer for it. > > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts > like > > this online? > > Hatt > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—– > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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I use these guy’s when I get frustrated with the local’s..  It’s a gm dealer site.. petty good.. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ JJ

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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I see  your point, but I hate paying double or triple for parts anyway.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> by the time you pay shipping on a measly TPS, you will have spent as much or > more than the dealer gets > Markup mostly. > > why not the dealer ? > > if the parts guy is any good at all, he can have it ordered before > you find > > it on-line > > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy > store) > > > I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell > me > > > I have to go to a dealer for it. > > > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts > like > > > this online? > > > Hatt > > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > > > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—– > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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> "Gary Glaenzer"  wrote > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy store) > A good parts guy is worth his weight in gold.  Too bad they > are underpaid.

and extremely rare I’m blessed that our GM place has not one, but two, who take the time to DIG for the info, instead of saying’ tough shit, it’s not on the

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt >The local dealer is your best source of advice and parts.  If your local one >is not to your liking… or they are too expensive then look for another one >in a nearby town… >http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/  —> I can not tell you if their prices are >good or how their service is as I get my parts at local parts shops, PepBoys >or the local GMC truck shop but they seem to have a nice selection of parts. >If all else fails you can go to a junk yard and get the whole throttle body. >I just got a catalog from LMC truck they do have tps’s for my suburban >listed ($30) so they may have one for your truck…  http://www.lmctruck.com >good luck >mark

www.partszoneonline.com is one I’ve used, service was pretty quick, parts were reasonable (saved over $200 on the parts for the infamous CPI injector/nut kit).  One problem I have with the site is that you need the part number to get a price, though they have a phone number you can call…

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I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me I have to go to a dealer for it. I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like this online? Hatt —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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why not the dealer ? if the parts guy is any good at all, he can have it ordered before you find it on-line G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy store)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

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"Gary Glaenzer"  wrote > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy store)

A good parts guy is worth his weight in gold.  Too bad they are underpaid. Ian

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> I can’t find a TPS connector at any of the part stores.  They tell me > I have to go to a dealer for it. > I’d like to avoid this, so does anyone know where to buy parts like > this online? > Hatt

The local dealer is your best source of advice and parts.  If your local one is not to your liking… or they are too expensive then look for another one in a nearby town… http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/  —> I can not tell you if their prices are good or how their service is as I get my parts at local parts shops, PepBoys or the local GMC truck shop but they seem to have a nice selection of parts. If all else fails you can go to a junk yard and get the whole throttle body. I just got a catalog from LMC truck they do have tps’s for my suburban listed ($30) so they may have one for your truck…  http://www.lmctruck.com good luck mark

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> > G (thanking God daily for a good parts dept at the local Chevy store) > A good parts guy is worth his weight in gold.  Too bad they > are underpaid.

I’ll second that. Went to the dealer last week in search of a transmission train plug. They didn’t have one but he remembered they were tearing apart an Avalanche in the shop. I gladly paid full price for a used drain plug. Joseph GMC in Cincinnati for those who care. Joshua

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