GMC FAQ » GMC Yukon

Open letter to GM

admin — Wed, 03 Nov 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

After years of buying Japanese cars, in 2000 I buy a $40,000 GMC Yukon XL, thinking GM quality had improved. Today at 25,000 miles (4-1/3 years old) the fuel pump failed. The cost to repair: $730. This is the first time I’ve ever had a fuel pump fail. My Japanese cars all had at least 100,000 miles on them before being sold. I see no excuse for such an early failure of this expensive part. I guess the next vehicle will not be another GM no matter how sweet the rebate. George Litwinski "It’s good to want things." S. Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist, Visual Basic.Net programmer)

Response:

GRL wrote, > After years of buying Japanese cars, in 2000 I buy a $40,000 GMC > Yukon XL, thinking GM quality had improved. > Today at 25,000 miles (4-1/3 years old) the fuel pump failed. > The cost to repair: $730.

Is that all that went wrong in 4 and a half years? Jeez….consider yourself lucky. Ian

Response:

says… >This is the first time I’ve ever had a fuel pump fail. My Japanese cars = >all had at least 100,000 miles on them before being sold.

MOVE to Japan. We don’t need you! — Dennis Smith -1971 Trans Am – 455 H.O. – M21 4speed – Cameo white/blue stripe- -1973 Trans Am – 455 – TH400 auto – Buccaneer red- -1984 Trans Am – 5.0 L – TH700R4 auto – Royal blue/silver aero-

Response:

And think of all those people that switched to Honda only to have their transmissions fail at 25k miles….. After years of buying Japanese cars, in 2000 I buy a $40,000 GMC Yukon XL, thinking GM quality had improved. Today at 25,000 miles (4-1/3 years old) the fuel pump failed. The cost to repair: $730. This is the first time I’ve ever had a fuel pump fail. My Japanese cars all had at least 100,000 miles on them before being sold. I see no excuse for such an early failure of this expensive part. I guess the next vehicle will not be another GM no matter how sweet the rebate. George Litwinski "It’s good to want things." S. Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist, Visual Basic.Net programmer)

Response:

Dang $730 for a $500 job with parts at list price. That’s a little steep. After years of buying Japanese cars, in 2000 I buy a $40,000 GMC Yukon XL, thinking GM quality had improved. Today at 25,000 miles (4-1/3 years old) the fuel pump failed. The cost to repair: $730. This is the first time I’ve ever had a fuel pump fail. My Japanese cars all had at least 100,000 miles on them before being sold. I see no excuse for such an early failure of this expensive part. I guess the next vehicle will not be another GM no matter how sweet the rebate. George Litwinski "It’s good to want things." S. Barr (philosopher, poet, humorist, chemist, Visual Basic.Net programmer)

Response:

With 25,000 miles… the dealer should’ve goodwilled it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > After years of buying Japanese cars, in 2000 I buy a $40,000 GMC Yukon > XL, thinking GM quality had improved. > Today at 25,000 miles (4-1/3 years old) the fuel pump failed. > The cost to repair: $730. > This is the first time I’ve ever had a fuel pump fail. My Japanese cars > all had at least 100,000 miles on them before being sold. > I see no excuse for such an early failure of this expensive part. > I guess the next vehicle will not be another GM no matter how sweet the > rebate. > / > George Litwinski > // > "It

Loud ping/bell sound

admin — Mon, 11 Oct 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Warranty item. Take it back to the dealer and have them check it out.

|I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging | noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle | especially after I drive and sitting idle. | | The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound | started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile | break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in period, | I started to drive a little more normal. | | I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal contracting | but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. (shrug) | | Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? | | Thanks in advance. | |

Response:

Well, it looks like this is an already known problem: Make : CHEVROLET Model : TAHOE Year : 2004 Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Service Bulletin Num : 030605008 Date of Bulletin: NOV 01, 2003 NHTSA Item Number: 10005576 Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:EXHAUST SYSTEM Summary: ADVANCE SERVICE INFORMATION – EXHAUST SYSTEM POPPING/SNAPPING NOISE WHEN VEHICLE IS HOT, AT IDLE OR IMMEDIATELY AFTER VEHICLE IS SHUT OFF. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Warranty item. Take it back to the dealer and have them check it out. > |I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging > | noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle > | especially after I drive and sitting idle. > | > | The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound > | started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile > | break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in > period, > | I started to drive a little more normal. > | > | I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal > contracting > | but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. (shrug) > | > | Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? > | > | Thanks in advance. > | > |

Response:

See the thread on this group about the same problem and it is mentioned a lot at www.automotiveforums.com. It’s a faulty exhaust or muffler. Mine does it and drives me nuts. (2004 GMC Yukon, started at 600 miles, now have 2800 miles) I can hear it when I am driving. The dealer told me GM is waiting on a "fix" for it for a year. Sounds like the big stall and ignore to me; He did not seem too interested. I am and others are also. Complain to GM loudly. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging >noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle >especially after I drive and sitting idle. > The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound > started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile > break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in > period, I started to drive a little more normal. > I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal contracting > but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. (shrug) > Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? > Thanks in advance.

Response:

Look at the thread "2004 GMC Yukon problems"

Response:

Well, according to the chevy dealer down the street from here, there seems to be a fix now available. They need to adjust the exhaust brackets and motor mounts per the service information. That will repair the cooling ping problem. FYI.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> See the thread on this group about the same problem and it is mentioned a > lot at www.automotiveforums.com. It’s a faulty exhaust or muffler. Mine > does it and drives me nuts. (2004 GMC Yukon, started at 600 miles, now > have 2800 miles) I can hear it when I am driving. The dealer told me GM is > waiting on a "fix" for it for a year. Sounds like the big stall and ignore > to me; He did not seem too interested. I am and others are also. Complain > to GM loudly. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. >I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging >noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle >especially after I drive and sitting idle. > The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound > started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile > break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in > period, I started to drive a little more normal. > I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal > contracting but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. > (shrug) > Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? > Thanks in advance.

Response:

I took mine for 3000 mi service the other day. The svc mgr told me the "fix" was for the 6L engine and not my 5.3. He couldn’t explain to me why GMC would not authorize a repair. I asked him why they sell GMC vehicles with known defects and he told me to complain to GMC.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, according to the chevy dealer down the street from here, there seems > to be a fix now available. They need to adjust the exhaust brackets and > motor mounts per the service information. That will repair the cooling > ping problem. > FYI. > See the thread on this group about the same problem and it is mentioned a > lot at www.automotiveforums.com. It’s a faulty exhaust or muffler. Mine > does it and drives me nuts. (2004 GMC Yukon, started at 600 miles, now > have 2800 miles) I can hear it when I am driving. The dealer told me GM > is waiting on a "fix" for it for a year. Sounds like the big stall and > ignore to me; He did not seem too interested. I am and others are also. > Complain to GM loudly. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. >>I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging >>noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle >>especially after I drive and sitting idle. >> The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound >> started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile >> break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in >> period, I started to drive a little more normal. >> I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal >> contracting but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. >> (shrug) >> Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? >> Thanks in advance.

Response:

Hmmm, if this particular bulletin is only for the 6.0L, then GM seems to think there is a problem with the 6.0L only, which is NOT the case. I read somewhere that the "fix" was supposed to be out mid-October, which a "fix" is out now but for the wrong model? Very confusing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I took mine for 3000 mi service the other day. The svc mgr told me the >"fix" was for the 6L engine and not my 5.3. He couldn’t explain to me why >GMC would not authorize a repair. I asked him why they sell GMC vehicles >with known defects and he told me to complain to GMC. > Well, according to the chevy dealer down the street from here, there > seems to be a fix now available. They need to adjust the exhaust > brackets and motor mounts per the service information. That will repair > the cooling ping problem. > FYI. >> See the thread on this group about the same problem and it is mentioned >> a lot at www.automotiveforums.com. It’s a faulty exhaust or muffler. >> Mine does it and drives me nuts. (2004 GMC Yukon, started at 600 miles, >> now have 2800 miles) I can hear it when I am driving. The dealer told me >> GM is waiting on a "fix" for it for a year. Sounds like the big stall >> and ignore to me; He did not seem too interested. I am and others are >> also. Complain to GM loudly. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. >>>I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging >>>noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle >>>especially after I drive and sitting idle. >>> The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound >>> started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile >>> break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in >>> period, I started to drive a little more normal. >>> I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal >>> contracting but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. >>> (shrug) >>> Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? >>> Thanks in advance.

Response:

I just looked at the Chevrolet website and the Tahoe only comes with a 4.8L or 5.3L. There isn’t a 6.0L option for the Tahoe but the same bulletin is out for it? (shrug) Still confused.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hmmm, if this particular bulletin is only for the 6.0L, then GM seems to > think there is a problem with the 6.0L only, which is NOT the case. > I read somewhere that the "fix" was supposed to be out mid-October, which > a "fix" is out now but for the wrong model? > Very confusing. >I took mine for 3000 mi service the other day. The svc mgr told me the >"fix" was for the 6L engine and not my 5.3. He couldn’t explain to me why >GMC would not authorize a repair. I asked him why they sell GMC vehicles >with known defects and he told me to complain to GMC. >> Well, according to the chevy dealer down the street from here, there >> seems to be a fix now available. They need to adjust the exhaust >> brackets and motor mounts per the service information. That will repair >> the cooling ping problem. >> FYI. >>> See the thread on this group about the same problem and it is mentioned >>> a lot at www.automotiveforums.com. It’s a faulty exhaust or muffler. >>> Mine does it and drives me nuts. (2004 GMC Yukon, started at 600 miles, >>> now have 2800 miles) I can hear it when I am driving. The dealer told >>> me GM is waiting on a "fix" for it for a year. Sounds like the big >>> stall and ignore to me; He did not seem too interested. I am and others >>> are also. Complain to GM loudly. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. >>>>I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud >>>>pinging noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the >>>>vehicle especially after I drive and sitting idle. >>>> The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound >>>> started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 >>>> mile break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the >>>> break-in period, I started to drive a little more normal. >>>> I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal >>>> contracting but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. >>>> (shrug) >>>> Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? >>>> Thanks in advance.

Response:

I bought a 04 Chevy Tahoe recently and its starting to make loud pinging noise, almost a bell like sound, around the bottom part of the vehicle especially after I drive and sitting idle. The car is new and it now has about 850 miles on it but the loud sound started around the 650 mile mark. I conducted the traditional 500 mile break-in period and even changed the oil at 550. After the break-in period, I started to drive a little more normal. I know the small clicking noise is normal because of the metal contracting but I think the bell sound is related. I’m not sure. (shrug) Will this loud ping sound go away or should I start to worry? Thanks in advance.

Response:

Door arm rest 94 XL

admin — Sun, 29 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

The arm rest on the driver’s door of my 1994 Explorer XL is a mess. The plastic under the padding is broken (cracked into little pieces) from age. This is the part you pull to close the door. The Ford dealer wants to sell me a whole new door panel, but even that wouldn’t work because the truck has NON power windows, and the only panels available are for power window models. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any ideas for a fix or can I maybe find the armrest only for sale somewhere? I check ebay occasionally without success. It seems non power windows are rare in Explorers.

Response:

> The arm rest on the driver’s door of my 1994 Explorer XL is a mess. The > plastic under the padding is broken (cracked into little pieces) from > age. This is the part you pull to close the door.

Brother, I feel your pain. I have the same truck. Mine has the driver’s door hinge problem that is apparently fairly common. This led to a lot of door slamming (because the door doesn’t line up properly) which in turn led to a latch that keeps coming unscrewed and a door handle that’s busted completely. Of course if I’d known the hinge was a common failure I could have bought the kit 5 years ago when it started acting up and saved myself a lot of trouble. The driver’s door hasn’t closed properly in ages; if I’m ever in a wreck I hope I roll onto the left side so that door will stay closed I also have manual windows (and no roof rack – how many Explorers have no roof rack???) and have checked eBay for months without seeing a single one of these handles listed. Although if I replaced mine with an OE handle I’d just break the new one in a couple months. My plan is to remove the right handle, use it to make a template which I can mirror and then make a handle out of 3/4" plywood. Plywood can take stress on any axis so I won’t be as likely to bust the new handle. If I could get my hands on a scrap of no-void birch ply that would be sweet. My ‘94 has so many problems it would cost more to fix them all than the truck would be worth after the repairs. Unfortunately, I don’t have the budget for a replacement. I know all the idiosyncrasies so it’s no big deal for me, but I don’t think anybody else could love this Explorer! — Gordon S. Hlavenka http://www.crashelectronics.com "If we imagined he could _find_ the car, we could pretend it might be fixed." – Calvin

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The arm rest on the driver’s door of my 1994 Explorer XL is a mess. > The plastic under the padding is broken (cracked into little pieces) > from age. This is the part you pull to close the door. > Brother, I feel your pain. > I have the same truck. Mine has the driver’s door hinge problem that is > apparently fairly common. This led to a lot of door slamming (because > the door doesn’t line up properly) which in turn led to a latch that > keeps coming unscrewed and a door handle that’s busted completely. Of > course if I’d known the hinge was a common failure I could have bought > the kit 5 years ago when it started acting up and saved myself a lot of > trouble. > The driver’s door hasn’t closed properly in ages; if I’m ever in a wreck > I hope I roll onto the left side so that door will stay closed > I also have manual windows (and no roof rack – how many Explorers have > no roof rack???) and have checked eBay for months without seeing a > single one of these handles listed. Although if I replaced mine with an > OE handle I’d just break the new one in a couple months. > My plan is to remove the right handle, use it to make a template which I > can mirror and then make a handle out of 3/4" plywood. Plywood can take > stress on any axis so I won’t be as likely to bust the new handle. If I > could get my hands on a scrap of no-void birch ply that would be sweet. > My ‘94 has so many problems it would cost more to fix them all than the > truck would be worth after the repairs. Unfortunately, I don’t have the > budget for a replacement. I know all the idiosyncrasies so it’s no big > deal for me, but I don’t think anybody else could love this Explorer!

Thanks. Yup. My door hinge is sloppy, you gotta slam the door to get it shut. Now there’s no place to pull to do it. I roll the window down and pull it shut. The outside door handle is so loose it flops in the breeze but still works. The drivers seat is sprung so bad it lists to port. But it always starts and gets me where I’m going. Has never let me down, on road or off, trailering my boat etc. And it even gets really decent gas mileage. It’s my second car now. My son borrows it when his GMC Yukon is in the shop which is very often. And … I no have roof rack either. Makes it easy to find in a parking lot full of Explorers!

Response:

Does a OEM Denali Grille Fit a Yukon???

admin — Tue, 30 Mar 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I’m thinking about replacing the grille on my ‘04 Yukon with an OEM Denali grille. Does anyone know if the Denali grill will fit? Particularly with the Yukon headlights. — John

Response:

Not sure about 2004, but looking at the 2002 GMC Cataloge photo’s I’d say no. The 02 Denali has a flat front bumper along the top where it mates with the grille bottom. The 02 Yukon’s bumper has a drop down step in the top of the bupmer so the grille comes down further to mate with the bumper. Thus meaning the grille on the Yukon is probably 2 inches bigger in height than the Denali grille. Again this is for the 2002’s. Ask at the dealer to be sure . Make sure your leaning against the counter so you don’t fall over when they tell you the price of a Denali grille. Good Luck. Harryface 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE 3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

Response:

yes it does. but you need to change the headlights and turn signal lights as well to make it fit. bumpers have nothing to do with it.

Response:

Fool Proof Environmental Opportunity

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

"You’re Sure?", actually, but your way does seem more appropriate. > There once was a fellow by the name of Chris Columbus that set out > to Prove the earth was round "How Stupid was this guy" His > countrymen told everyone he was a fool. A queen hocked her jewels so > he could buy a ship and prove that he was right. I was just trying > to remember if he was right……

He was wrong, actually. Columbus knew that his ships could not sail the entire distance west from Europe to Asia, so he convinced himself that the Earth was pear-shaped, with a smaller circumference in the northern hemisphere (!). He was the luckiest known sonofabitch in history because North America happened to be in the way. He bumped into it just before he ran too low of supplies to return to Europe. And he died believing that he *had* reached Asia. Oh, that "NRG" thingy? Crock of shit. People have been selling similar things for decades.

Response:

What a flake. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Steve, > There once was a fellow by the name of Chris Columbus that set out > to Prove the earth was round "How Stupid was this guy" His > countrymen told everyone he was a fool. A queen hocked her jewels so > he could buy a ship and prove that he was right. I was just trying > to remember if he was right…… > October 2002 GREATER TULSA REPORTER NEWSPAPERS > EnergyCel Makes Vehicles More Fuel Efficient and Safer > Total Safety Means More Than Seatbelts & Airbags > By Jerry Cumbus > Better mileage means much more than spending less at the gas pump. > When the better mileage results from > improved combustion, this brings about a multitude of benefits and > advantages in the long-term operation of > your vehicle far beyond saving a few dollars when topping off the > tank. > Truly efficient combustion in an internal combustion engine is > difficult to achieve. That is why we have catalytic > converters and other emissions control equipment incorporated in the > design of contemporary engines, to > keep all the unburned particulates out of the air we breathe and > provide a higher safety level of clean atmosphere. > The bad news is all these contraptions drain power from the principle > purpose of the engine, which is to make > the vehicle move both quickly and efficiently. Thus requiring more > power to do the same job. Theoretically, > this entire approach to solve the pollution problem is, to a degree, > self-defeating, or at best, far from a thoroughly > scientific methodology for pollution control. > Effective atmospheric safety in this area has been the focus of > extensive research for most of the past 60 years. > Today, our knowledge of chemistry and molecular physics has brought > about advances we are beginning to > realize and apply to the problems permeating the perpetuation of > atmospheric safety in this context, through > improvement in fuel efficiency. The best part of this development, is > better mileage. > We are currently continuing tests on a new device, called the > EnergyCel, which makes a significant contribution > to every aspect of fuel efficiency. The EnergyCels on which we are > continuing to conduct evaluations are > installed on a

Differential Capacities

admin — Tue, 16 Mar 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I am planning on changing the oil in my front and rear diffs before I > make > > the long drive from MS to ID. > > I am considering buying synthetic oil, but cannot figure out exactly how > > much I need. > > I cannot seem to find many websites that show the capacities for the > > differentials. > > The one site I did find showed 4.2 – 5.5 pints for the Rear and 3.5 > pints > > for the Front. > > Do these numbers sound accurate?? > > If it matters, I am working with a 96 GMC Yukon with M80 rear end. > > Thanks, > > Mike > Go to www.autozone.com and punch in your vehicle information, then go to > the > specifications section. Or better yet, crack your owners manual! > Doc > Doc, > Thanks, I’ll try the Autozone website. > Actually I did check my owners manual first, but it does not list capacities > for the front or rear diff. > All it has is the weight of the oil to use, and I have heard GM changed that > from 80w90 to 75w90. > Mike

80W and 75W are the same thing for all intents and purposes. Most Dyno oils are 80W90 and the Synthetics are 75W90. They are interchangeable. For fluid capacities, general rule of thumb (except for the new ones, 2000 and newer) is fill em’ till they overflow thru the fill hole, let the excess run off and then cork them up. Should be slightly over 2 quarts for front and about 1 3/4 quarts for front. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I am planning on changing the oil in my front and rear diffs before I make the long drive from MS to ID. I am considering buying synthetic oil, but cannot figure out exactly how much I need. I cannot seem to find many websites that show the capacities for the differentials. The one site I did find showed 4.2 – 5.5 pints for the Rear and 3.5 pints for the Front. Do these numbers sound accurate?? If it matters, I am working with a 96 GMC Yukon with M80 rear end. Thanks, Mike

Response:

> I am planning on changing the oil in my front and rear diffs before I make > the long drive from MS to ID. > I am considering buying synthetic oil, but cannot figure out exactly how > much I need. > I cannot seem to find many websites that show the capacities for the > differentials. > The one site I did find showed 4.2 – 5.5 pints for the Rear and 3.5 pints > for the Front. > Do these numbers sound accurate?? > If it matters, I am working with a 96 GMC Yukon with M80 rear end. > Thanks, > Mike

Go to www.autozone.com and punch in your vehicle information, then go to the specifications section. Or better yet, crack your owners manual! Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am planning on changing the oil in my front and rear diffs before I make > the long drive from MS to ID. > I am considering buying synthetic oil, but cannot figure out exactly how > much I need. > I cannot seem to find many websites that show the capacities for the > differentials. > The one site I did find showed 4.2 – 5.5 pints for the Rear and 3.5 pints > for the Front. > Do these numbers sound accurate?? > If it matters, I am working with a 96 GMC Yukon with M80 rear end. > Thanks, > Mike > Go to www.autozone.com and punch in your vehicle information, then go to the > specifications section. Or better yet, crack your owners manual! > Doc

Doc, Thanks, I’ll try the Autozone website. Actually I did check my owners manual first, but it does not list capacities for the front or rear diff. All it has is the weight of the oil to use, and I have heard GM changed that from 80w90 to 75w90. Mike

Response:

Trailer towing

admin — Sun, 14 Mar 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Anybody tow a travel trailer with an Explorer? I want to haul a 3000 lb 16 foot trailer and am considering a purchasing a 1998 Explorer with the 5.0 L or 4.6 L (whichever is maximum available) V8 engine and 4 speed automatic. I currently tow with a 1980 Jeep Wagoneer with 360 V8 (5.9 L). I know that my trailer is well within published towing limits for the Explorer, but I am especially interested in speeds attainable on mountain passes and in long term durability. I would buy the Explorer with the heavy duty towing package (hitch receiver, extra AT cooling, wiring harness, optional axle ratio, etc). Comparisons with other SUV’s would also be welcome (Jeep GC, Chevy Blazer, Chevy Tahoe/GMC Yukon, Dodge Durango, etc). Dick Ballard Beaverton OR (near Portland)

Response:

Hey Dick, I own a 96 Explorer XLT V6 which I use to tow a Coleman Sunridge. The Sunridge is close to 3000 # fully loaded. I have never to this day had any problems. I live in the mountains of NC. Of course I feel it back there when I start uphill, but it dont have any problems towing it at all.But if you expect to maintain the same speed as you do on flat terrain, dont buy it. I use the tow package with a 3.73 rear axle / weight distr. hitch / bilsteins all around. Another thing is that the Explorer is not a full size truck, and so the wheel base is narrower. If you dont have a good hitch system, and with good I mean weight distr. hitch, you WILLLL run into lateral stability problems, "sway", when you drive in crosswind, when you pass heavy trucks etc. Now this is just my HO, ok, but based on experience. Power wise its capable, stability wise its capable, depending on the hitch system you choose. — Tor Langvand – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Anybody tow a travel trailer with an Explorer? I want to haul a 3000 >lb 16 foot trailer and am considering a purchasing a 1998 Explorer >with the 5.0 L or 4.6 L (whichever is maximum available) V8 engine and >4 speed automatic. >I currently tow with a 1980 Jeep Wagoneer with 360 V8 (5.9 L). I know >that my trailer is well within published towing limits for the >Explorer, but I am especially interested in speeds attainable on >mountain passes and in long term durability. I would buy the Explorer >with the heavy duty towing package (hitch receiver, extra AT cooling, >wiring harness, optional axle ratio, etc). >Comparisons with other SUV’s would also be welcome (Jeep GC, Chevy >Blazer, Chevy Tahoe/GMC Yukon, Dodge Durango, etc). >Dick Ballard >Beaverton OR (near Portland)

begin 666 Tor Langvand.vcf M0D5′24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..DQA;F=V86YD.U1O

Response:

I have a 96 explorer with the v-8 and tow a 24 foot 4500# trailer. I live in Pittsburgh and have towed throughout pa, wv, va, and the outer banks of nc. Before the explorer, i had a trooper with a 6, and the difference is enormous. With the v8 i can pass going up hills on interstates as well as just maintaining my speed. Regardless of which engine, you will need a weight distribution hitch and a SWAY bar for crosswinds and semis passing you at 70 mph on the interstates. Good luck and happy trailering! bill hadley

Response:

We own a 97, sohc v6 and although its not that bad for power and economy i wouldn’t bother trying to tow our boat which weighs in at 4000lbs, maybe our snowmobile trailer at 1500lbs but that’s about it. It’s my moms suburban kid moving machine and is nice to drive. However, I feel the same way you do, as for the guy who tows the 4500, sure you can do it with the explorer, but in my mind its pushing it. Perhaps I’m into overkill because my main towing vehicle is either a 95 powerstroke 250, or an 81 F350 with low gears and a 4 speed. For our lighter towing, the boat at about 4000, the 96 four door Tahoe is just great, enough interior room, and a bit more mass for stopping and the like. Personally I think the older 350 with TBI has a better torque curve than the 302, pre vortech. Now the Vortech, which we have in a 96 really has the gusto with 3.73 rears. I don’t know what you are looking for as the tahoe is much bigger than the explorer and on a truck chassis, but my dad had no problem choosing it over the explorer for his winter vehicle and in 96 the expedition was still a year away. I have noted that people discuss explorers with 4.10 rears, I’d like these if I wanted to tow. Also the 302 is the only V8 option this year, the 4.6 should come after the redesign, its too wide for the present rendition with its overhead cams. The 302 hasn’t changed in a long time and although a good motor, we have had many, the 4.6 is more economical, more powerful and a lot smoother. Just an idea. JT : Anybody tow a travel trailer with an Explorer? I want to haul a 3000 : lb 16 foot trailer and am considering a purchasing a 1998 Explorer : with the 5.0 L or 4.6 L (whichever is maximum available) V8 engine and : 4 speed automatic. : I currently tow with a 1980 Jeep Wagoneer with 360 V8 (5.9 L). I know : that my trailer is well within published towing limits for the : Explorer, but I am especially interested in speeds attainable on : mountain passes and in long term durability. I would buy the Explorer : with the heavy duty towing package (hitch receiver, extra AT cooling, : wiring harness, optional axle ratio, etc). : Comparisons with other SUV’s would also be welcome (Jeep GC, Chevy : Blazer, Chevy Tahoe/GMC Yukon, Dodge Durango, etc). : Dick Ballard : Beaverton OR (near Portland)

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Does anyone know the towing rates for the bumper hitch on ‘93 4wd 6?

Response:

>Does anyone know the towing rates for the bumper hitch >on ‘93 4wd 6?

Many of them have the capacity stamped into the mounting plate that the ball goes into. It’s usually between 2500 and 3500 pounds. — Elbridge Gerry, of Massachusetts: "What, sir, is the use of militia? It is to prevent the establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty. . . Whenever Government means to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise a standing army upon its ruins." – Debate, U.S. House of Representatives, August 17, 1789

Response:

Bump Stop Question

admin — Thu, 12 Feb 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I noticed while I was under my truck the other day that the bump stops were all pretty much gone. Is this a dealer only part to replace, or can I use something different?? I have a 96 GMC Yukon 4×4 that is completely stock. I will be replacing the shocks in a few days and would like to do the bump stops at the same time. Thanks, Mike

Response:

> I noticed while I was under my truck the other day that the bump stops were > all pretty much gone. > Is this a dealer only part to replace, or can I use something different?? > I have a 96 GMC Yukon 4×4 that is completely stock. > I will be replacing the shocks in a few days and would like to do the bump > stops at the same time.

You should be able to pop the old ones out, and new ones in, in under 10 minutes. The metal ‘cup’ they sit in, have a few ‘claws’ that grip it. You’ll just pry them out with a medium sized screwdriver. -marc

Response:

Radio

admin — Tue, 03 Feb 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Has anyone ever changed the bulb behind the display on the radio. Mine went out and looking how to replace it.

Response:

Forgettaboutit. This problem has been documented here, ad nauseum. It’s not a "bulb" but some sort of internal circuit. Check with your dealer for a cheap radio swap. They seem to have some sort of hidden warranty. If you don’t get satisifaction from one dealer, try another as they are well aware of the problem. My radio was replaced at 40,000 for about $70.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone ever changed the bulb behind the display on the radio. Mine went > out and looking how to replace it.

Response:

Glad you got satisfaction. I discussed it with the Maxwell Ford guys here in Austin and I got was a blank stare and a quote for replacing the radio. Maybe I’ll try another dealer in town. To the original poster, be glad it’s just the radio channel and time that aren’t displaying correctly. It could be as bad as the transmission being out of whack, or something, like the 2002’s. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Forgettaboutit. This problem has been documented here, ad nauseum. It’s not > a "bulb" but some sort of internal circuit. Check with your dealer for a > cheap radio swap. They seem to have some sort of hidden warranty. If you > don’t get satisifaction from one dealer, try another as they are well aware > of the problem. My radio was replaced at 40,000 for about $70. > Has anyone ever changed the bulb behind the display on the radio. Mine > went > out and looking how to replace it.

Response:

do a google search for explorer radio repair-common problem.

Can anyone suggest a good replacement radio for my 2001 explorer with read seat controls, the display in mine had died and ford wants $200.00 to fix it. Or, does anyone know where I can get it fixed on on the net? — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

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go see that adress http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/index.htm they might help you out Pascal – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can anyone suggest a good replacement radio for my 2001 explorer with read > seat controls, the display in mine had died and ford wants $200.00 to fix > it. Or, does anyone know where I can get it fixed on on the net?

Response:

Hi My CD 6006 E is out of order ( CD ) and I want to replace it . It’s a double din size . Regards Any recommandation ? ART-Explorer 02 AWD- XLT ( export ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> go see that adress > http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/index.htm > they might help you out > Pascal > Can anyone suggest a good replacement radio for my 2001 explorer with read > seat controls, the display in mine had died and ford wants $200.00 to fix > it. Or, does anyone know where I can get it fixed on on the net?

Response:

It could be just a light bulb ……. I don’t know what your radio or your rear display looks like, but my 90 Bronco’s radio did the same thing. The digital display went blank, and I couldn’t see diddley……. Come to find out, the display was not bad. as there is a light bulb that illuminates the display. I replaced the light bulb behind the display, and PRESTO ……. It sure beats paying a dealer $200.00 to do something just as simple. But the dealer probably subcontracts a radio repair facility to do all of it’s radio repairs. But, then again ….. I don’t know if your radio is still using the same method of lighting it’s digital display. Things might have hurt to open it up and see what’s cooking in there !!! Just remember what you did to get it apart. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Can anyone suggest a good replacement radio for my 2001 explorer with read >seat controls, the display in mine had died and ford wants $200.00 to fix >it. Or, does anyone know where I can get it fixed on on the net?

Response:

The radio in my GMC Yukon is now locked up after I replaced the battery this weekend. As I bought the truck used over a year ago, I never received the code to unlock the radio. Is there anyway to rescue the radio/cassette or is it toast? Cheers, Paul

Response:

The same thing happened to my sister and her used Cavalier that she bought. The previous owner set the code, and she was unaware until a couple of years after the purchase and she had to replace the battery. She called the dealer and they said they could clear it for around $39.00.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The radio in my GMC Yukon is now locked up after I replaced the battery this > weekend. As I bought the truck used over a year ago, I never received the > code to unlock the radio. > Is there anyway to rescue the radio/cassette or is it toast? > Cheers, > Paul

Response:

Hi All, I enjoyed the radio program of NZ last night even I am in Japan. I used to live in NZ for 15 month as using working & holiday visa and it was all good memories. I was so surprized that the internet make such a things true…..we can hear radio program of all over the world without going to overseas. smash

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And on the 7th day, God invented the Harley Davidson, and on the 8th day, He traded it in for something more powerful, and then on the 9th said >Hi All, >I enjoyed the radio program of NZ last night >even I am in Japan. I used to live in NZ for >15 month as using working & holiday visa and >it was all good memories. >I was so surprized that the internet make >such a things true…..we can hear radio >program of all over the world without >going to overseas. >smash

it is wonderful, isn’t it? I like to listen to English radio on the ‘net – it brings back memories of travelling around the UK, listening to the car radio. Rev. Possum Bits (aka Pseudocherus peregrinus occidantalis), U.L.C. Also to be found at http://members.iinet.net.au/~pamela2 * "Look, Gonzo, I’m not posing naked for anybody, even if it is artistic." – Janice

Response:

> A guy posted a question about his radio which stopped working after taking > out and putting it back in. I pulled out mine because AM didn’t work although > FM worked. After putting it back, FM doesn’t work but AM works fine. Took out > again and tried to find the problem or hiding switch if any. Couldn’t find > anything. Now AM still works fine but FM just gives very very faint sound > when the volume is at max. Any reply is appreciated. > Yong > —

Just a guess but it sounds like it could be an antenna problem. Jack

Response:

A guy posted a question about his radio which stopped working after taking out and putting it back in. I pulled out mine because AM didn’t work although FM worked. After putting it back, FM doesn’t work but AM works fine. Took out again and tried to find the problem or hiding switch if any. Couldn’t find anything. Now AM still works fine but FM just gives very very faint sound when the volume is at max. Any reply is appreciated. Yong —

Response:

i was wondering does anyone hear know about adding sterring wheel radio controls to a car is it possible?

Response:

A large number of car stereos can be suplemented with steering wheel mounted remotes. Blaupunkt is one option among many. http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-QbIwt6JvYzh/prodview.asp?I=023RC09 If you search through the Crutcfield web site (www.crutchfield.com) you will find a large number of these. Give them a call (1 888 955 6000) and they may even be able to tell you if a remote is available for the stereo you have in the car now. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > i was wondering does anyone hear know about adding sterring wheel radio > controls to a car is it possible?

Response:

Just a guess but it sounds like it could be an antenna problem. Jack

Response:

i was wondering does anyone hear know about adding sterring wheel radio controls to a car is it possible?

Response:

Another Bad Sales Month for GM, Other US Manufacturer Ford :-(

admin — Tue, 03 Feb 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

For January GM Down 2% Ford Down 9% Toyota Up 16% Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck and this on top of being up 60+% earlier!) Haven’t seen the other manufacturer numbers yet. GM execs blame the cold weather. Guess it wasn’t as cold and snowy over at the Nissan and Toyota dealers, huh! The new OnStar car give-away promotion is apparently a flop…dealers report that people come into the dealer to play the game and simply leave…few, if any sales are resulting from the promotion, apparently. GM has released some newly redesigned vehicles, one would think those would bring in some buyers! Perhaps it will turn around (the continued pervasive erosion of market share) as more of them are made available? For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle? Just curious. I’ll abstain from giving my input…most of you know it already! But, folks, we all love GM and GM needs our help! Tell them what you want from them! Apparently they don’t have much of a clue of what buyers want!

Response:

>Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16%

I was just reading (MT or C&D maybe?) that for the first time Toyota outsold Ford in the car area. >GM has released some newly redesigned vehicles,

including the old Daewoo line up rebadged as both Suzuki and Chevy (Aveo) >For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to >consider a new GM vehicle?

I assume you mean "in the market for a new car"? In our case I’m seriously looking at the Malibu vs. the new Pontiac G6 (when it comes out for sale) vs. Toy Corrolla or Ford Focus… >What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What >features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to >change

What they need is a good product at a fair price. One that won’t bedevil us with trips tot he dealer for minor (or major) warranty work and one that won’t crap out in a major way the day after the warranty is up… Wir welle bleiwe wat mir sin (Letzebuergesch)

Response:

says… > For January > GM Down 2% > Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16% > Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck > and this on top of being up 60+% > earlier!)

People that bought a Titan werent in the market for a real truck obviously… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Haven’t seen the other manufacturer numbers yet. > GM execs blame the cold weather. Guess it wasn’t as cold and snowy over at the > Nissan and Toyota dealers, huh! > The new OnStar car give-away promotion is apparently a flop…dealers report > that people come into the dealer to play the game and simply leave…few, if > any sales are resulting from the promotion, apparently. > GM has released some newly redesigned vehicles, one would think those would > bring in some buyers! Perhaps it will turn around (the continued pervasive > erosion of market share) as more of them are made available? > For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to > consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What > features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to > change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle?

I havent even reached 300,000 miles yet so I’m not looking for anything.

Response:

> For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to > consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What > features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to > change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle? > Just curious. I’ll abstain from giving my input…most of you know it already! > But, folks, we all love GM and GM needs our help! Tell them what you want > from them! Apparently they don’t have much of a clue of what buyers want!

I already mentioned this: – Consolidate their car lines. Cadillac – same. Buick – pretty much the same – graft the top end Pontiacs into it. Pontiac – Vibe, Aveo, and sporty cars. Chevrolet would be all the SUV lines other than Cadillac. Period. Exception – Corvette would be the one car made under the Chevrolet badge. GMC – 100% commercial vehicles. 4500 series and up. By getting rid of half a dozen redundant choices, they would focus the comsumers’ attention on a few simple choices. Toyota is good at this – they have virtually no overlap in their entire line, so there is a choice for everyone. Two dealerships, not four. In the above scenario, you want a SUV? You get a Chevy Yukon or one of the others. Move the new Buick SUV to Chevrolet and keep the same name, for instance. Truck/SUV? One dealership. The Buick/Chevrolet/GMC version of the same vehicle is a waste of resources. Passenger cars? Buick/Pontiac – one dealership as well – all different with no overlap. Lastly – something inexpensive that’s not a Daewoo. The Vibe is selling so well because it’s not a typical GM vewhicle. A decent replacement for the Cavalier would be good, for instance, as the Toyota Echo is cleaning up in the fleet sales.

Response:

> What they need is a good product at a fair price. One that won’t bedevil us > with trips tot he dealer for minor (or major) warranty work and one that won’t > crap out in a major way the day after the warranty is up…

Then get something like the Vibe with the large engine and manual trans. Build quality is better than a typical GM vehicle, and it has plenty of power. Clutch jobs are cheap as well.

Response:

I guess the most important thing they could do to build brand loyalty would be to stand behind their product better. There is a KNOWN defect in the 3.4L, V-6 intake manifold gasket. This is a well known problem, yet there has been no recall and no extended warranty. We have an ‘02 Pontiac Grand Am with this engine and I am worried about this gasket leaking in the future. http://tinyurl.com/3du7v Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For January > GM Down 2% > Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16% > Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck > and this on top of being up 60+% > earlier!) snip> > For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to > consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What > features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to > change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle? > Just curious. I’ll abstain from giving my input…most of you know it already! > But, folks, we all love GM and GM needs our help! Tell them what you want > from them! Apparently they don’t have much of a clue of what buyers want!

Response:

> For January > GM Down 2% > Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16% > Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck > and this on top of being up 60+% > earlier!)

SNIP I just bought a new Ford Ranger a few months ago, plan to buy my wife a new Grand Am next year. Bought a new Astro van in 2000. Buy a Toyota or Nissan? HELL no.

Response:

James ranted on: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->For January > GM Down 2% > Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16% > Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck > and this on top of being up 60+% > earlier!) >Haven’t seen the other manufacturer numbers yet. >GM execs blame the cold weather. Guess it wasn’t as cold and snowy over at >the >Nissan and Toyota dealers, huh! >The new OnStar car give-away promotion is apparently a flop…dealers report >that people come into the dealer to play the game and simply leave…few, if >any sales are resulting from the promotion, apparently. >GM has released some newly redesigned vehicles, one would think those would >bring in some buyers! Perhaps it will turn around (the continued pervasive >erosion of market share) as more of them are made available? >For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to >consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What >features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to >change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle? >Just curious. I’ll abstain from giving my input…most of you know it >already! >:-) But, folks, we all love GM and GM needs our help! Tell them what you >want >from them! Apparently they don’t have much of a clue of what buyers want!

James, why don’t you admit that you had a problem that you could not figure out on your GM car, so you hassled GM to the point where they would not listen to you. (?) In contrast, I like my new GM just the way it is, and I would not want anybody to change the lighting control, which is what your major rant always is. Why don’t you simply take your sour grapes and go away? Please. —Bob Gross—

Response:

Me and mine did our parts….I bought a 2004 Sierra in December; my brother got jealous and bought one himself; his stepson didn’t want to be left out and bought a Silverado. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For January > GM Down 2% > Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16% > Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck > and this on top of being up 60+% > earlier!) > Haven’t seen the other manufacturer numbers yet. > GM execs blame the cold weather. Guess it wasn’t as cold and snowy over at the > Nissan and Toyota dealers, huh! > The new OnStar car give-away promotion is apparently a flop…dealers report > that people come into the dealer to play the game and simply leave…few, if > any sales are resulting from the promotion, apparently. > GM has released some newly redesigned vehicles, one would think those would > bring in some buyers! Perhaps it will turn around (the continued pervasive > erosion of market share) as more of them are made available? > For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to > consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What > features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to > change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle? > Just curious. I’ll abstain from giving my input…most of you know it already! > But, folks, we all love GM and GM needs our help! Tell them what you want > from them! Apparently they don’t have much of a clue of what buyers want!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > For January > GM Down 2% > Ford Down 9% > Toyota Up 16% > Nissan Up 26% (Mostly from it’s new Titan truck > and this on top of being up 60+% > earlier!) > Haven’t seen the other manufacturer numbers yet. > GM execs blame the cold weather. Guess it wasn’t as cold and snowy over at the > Nissan and Toyota dealers, huh! > The new OnStar car give-away promotion is apparently a flop…dealers report > that people come into the dealer to play the game and simply leave…few, if > any sales are resulting from the promotion, apparently. > GM has released some newly redesigned vehicles, one would think those would > bring in some buyers! Perhaps it will turn around (the continued pervasive > erosion of market share) as more of them are made available? > For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to > consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? What > features, design elements, functions or consumer related policies need to > change (if any do) for you to consider a new GM vehicle? > Just curious. I’ll abstain from giving my input…most of you know it already! > But, folks, we all love GM and GM needs our help! Tell them what you want > from them! Apparently they don’t have much of a clue of what buyers want!

Next thing to be "outsourced" I guess. If you don’t have to pay your workers a high salary so they can pay their income tax and social security plus paying their medical benefits and stuff, one can build a pretty good car at a very competitive price. Some of those foreign vehicles are assembled here in automatic factories because it is cheaper to ship the parts than it is the whole vehicle. The parts all made outside the country. Most of them use Value Added tax (Like a sales tax). They don’t tax their exports but add a big tax on anything we send them. Free trade they call it.

Response:

>>I guess the most important thing they could do to build brand loyalty would >be to stand behind their product better. There is a KNOWN defect in the >3.4L, V-6 intake manifold gasket. This is a well known problem, yet there >has been no recall and no extended warranty.

The gasket has been redesigned in all 3.1 & 3.4 engines assembled after November 2002. Jury is still out on whether it actually fixed the problem. It does leave those who bought earlier vehicles (1999 – 2002) the possibility of a repair job down the road. I always get a GM extended warranty when I lease GM vehicles. Lots of folks say it’s a waste of money, but when the intake gasket goes just after the factory warranty would have expired, it’s paid for itself. Same deal on the 3.1L piston slap problem. Brad

Response:

>>For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to >consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy?

Design and build a proper station wagon. They’ve got 3 years or I get a Ford of a Mazda (same thing really) The Malibu Maxx is not a wagon in my book…it’s a sedan with an extended roof line that makes the car look like they ran out of sheetmetal during assembly.

Response:

>>Next thing to be "outsourced" I guess.

They are already doing that. The new 2005 Chevy Equinox will be built at the CAMI plant in Ingersol, Ontario. The 3.4L engine for the Equinox will be assembled in China and shipped to Canada to reduce costs. Apparently it’s cheaper to send an engine halfway around the world then it is to build it in a somewhat close proximity to the factory.

Response:

>>Next thing to be "outsourced" I guess. > They are already doing that. > The new 2005 Chevy Equinox will be built at the CAMI plant in Ingersol, > Ontario. The 3.4L engine for the Equinox will be assembled in China and > shipped to Canada to reduce costs. > Apparently it’s cheaper to send an engine halfway around the world then > it is to build it in a somewhat close proximity to the factory.

Isnt that wierd?

Response:

>- Consolidate their car lines. >Cadillac – same. >Buick – pretty much the same – graft the top end Pontiacs into it. >Pontiac – Vibe, Aveo, and sporty cars. >Chevrolet would be all the SUV lines other than Cadillac. Period. >Exception – Corvette would be the one car made under the Chevrolet badge. >GMC – 100% commercial vehicles. 4500 series and up.

Where would ordinary cars go? I.e. ones that are neither especially sporty (Pontiac), nor upscale (Buick), nor luxury (Cadillac)? Seems like the Chevrolet brand could still have the ordinary cars like the Malibu, the replacement of the Cavalier, and a passenger minivan (of course, ordinary cars can and should be good cars, not just filler). Where would you do with Saturn and Saab? — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

Response:

> Where would ordinary cars go? I.e. ones that are neither especially > sporty (Pontiac), nor upscale (Buick), nor luxury (Cadillac)? Seems > like the Chevrolet brand could still have the ordinary cars like the > Malibu, the replacement of the Cavalier, and a passenger minivan (of > course, ordinary cars can and should be good cars, not just filler).

Normal cars would be split between Buick and Pontiac. When people think "Chevy" they think "Truck" and "Corvette" Pontiac – cars. Buick – upscale cars > Where would you do with Saturn and Saab?

Their own brands, of course. No change.

Response:

> it’s a sedan with an extended roof line that makes the car look like they ran > out of sheetmetal during assembly.

AMC Gremlin for the 21st century? LOL — Dennis Smith -1971 Trans Am – 455 H.O. – M21 4speed – Cameo white/blue stripe- < http://ps2page.tripod.com/my71ta/tapage.html > -1973 Trans Am – 455 – TH400 auto – Buccaneer red- -1984 Trans Am – 5.0 L – TH700R4 auto – Royal blue/silver aero-

Response:

>AMC Gremlin for the 21st century? LOL

Both people I know who had Gremlins had great cars, would that they were Grems for the 21st! The 72 AMC Ambassador Brougham that I had was among the best cars I’ve ever had. Nothing like a car with a queen size bed built into the front/rear lay down seats, and the 360 V8 burned rubber in all 3 gears… Wir welle bleiwe wat mir sin (Letzebuergesch)

Response:

| James, why don’t you admit that you had a problem that you could not figure out | on your GM car, Since I earlier explained the "problem" (as you put it) quite accurately and in very fine detail, I obviously "figured it out". It wasn’t hard to figure out. I do admit that I didn’t like some of the "features" my former Malibu LS had though and expressed that the features could create confusion FOR SOME PERCENTAGE OF PEOPLE! I’ll leave it at that as to not taint this thread with "my" particular product suggestions. | so you hassled GM to the point where they would not listen | to you. (?) Two emails a hassle? Pretty low threshold, don’t you think? Obviously my suggestion struck a nerve…they must hear it A LOT. I know several people personally that have made the same suggestions I have, frankly. On file at the NHTSA are many "public comments" that have within their text claimes to have "written GM" over the same suggestion/concerns I have. Quite a common "complaint"…admit it or not! | In contrast, I like my new GM just the way it is, and I would not want anybody | to change the lighting control, which is what your major rant always is. And that is perfectly fine. I’m glad you’re fine with your car. You should have it just the way you want it…as other potential customers should as well (or they won’t buy). No need to contribute to this thread then. Most customers are probably fine with their GM car (take HarryFace, for example…a wonderful relationship with his 1991 Bonneville!). But obviously the numbers are quite clear and telling (and have been for about 6-7 years now) in that the typical average buyer is slowly going elsewhere…that is the real topic of this thread…what do members of this forum think GM needs to do to turn that around. I’ve stayed out of the discussion on "my" suggestion…that is until you made it personal and mentioned it. Do you not want some good feedback for those GM management types that lurk here to hear from loyal GM customers that care enough to post here? Tough love is the most sincere type of love…surely you must understand that! No one is going to take time here if they didn’t REALLY care! I come from many generations of GMers! Hide your head in the sand, if you must. I only hope that THAT problem you obviously have isn’t a prevasive cultural issue among the management types at GM! | | Why don’t you simply take your sour grapes and go away? Please. Product improvement requires consumer input. Ignoring customer "gripes" (I call them product suggestions…see the difference?) is a sure way to loose business. (Oh wait, GM IS loosing business!) You aren’t the customer advocate type, are you?! ;-) You must work for GM…I’ve conversed with plenty just like you over at corporate! …a experience never had elsewhere! Go away? Not likely…sorry.

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Cool… I might just have to buy back my GM stock with this insider info! :-)

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| | >>For those in this forum that are in the market. What will it take for you to | >>consider a new GM vehicle? What does GM need to do to get you to buy? | Design and build a proper station wagon. They’ve got 3 years or I get a | Ford of a Mazda (same thing really) | | The Malibu Maxx is not a wagon in my book…it’s a sedan with an | extended roof line that makes the car look like they ran out of | sheetmetal during assembly. I tend to agree. Although they seem to have made some nice improvements to the Malibu, generally (from what I’ve read, anyway). It is a little curious…wonder how much real space gain there is to the "Maxx" version over the sedan version? Hmmm…. I wonder if Dodge’s new Magnum model (coming out soon) is closer to the traditional rear-drive HEMI V8 "wagon" design or not? If so, might be worthwhile for GM to keep tabs on the Magnum sales numbers…the consumer may be interested in a "wagon" again…GM should be in that space if so…

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>>> The new 2005 Chevy Equinox will be built at the CAMI plant in Ingersol, >> Ontario. The 3.4L engine for the Equinox will be assembled in China and >> shipped to Canada to reduce costs. >> Apparently it’s cheaper to send an engine halfway around the world then >> it is to build it in a somewhat close proximity to the factory. >Isnt that wierd?

Very weird. I guess they figure that paying factory workers in China peanuts for a salary more than compensates for the shipping costs.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>The new 2005 Chevy Equinox will be built at the CAMI plant in Ingersol, >>>Ontario. The 3.4L engine for the Equinox will be assembled in China and >>>shipped to Canada to reduce costs. >>>Apparently it’s cheaper to send an engine halfway around the world then >>>it is to build it in a somewhat close proximity to the factory. >>Isnt that wierd? > Very weird. > I guess they figure that paying factory workers in China peanuts for a > salary more than compensates for the shipping costs.

And it is the only way they can compete with the other Oriental vehicles that are taking over the market. Like the textile industry, soon you will have an option of buying a car made by an oriental company or one from an American company that makes their cars in the orient.

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The US companies have for the most part continued to fall behind the power curve of competitive reality. Korea is eating up the low price market. Toyota is gaining everywhere and attacking on all fronts. Nissan is picking up the market for edgy designs and rear wheel drive performance cars. Honda has become a player in minivans, SUVS and soon pickup truck-lites. GM at least has a couple of hit products on it’s hands as well as a lot of also rans. Ford has the F150 and …. well, nothing. Chrysler is flailing about trying to figure out who and what it is while releasing funky little niche vehicles and neglecting to be a leader in any of the mainstream vehicle categories. All in all things continue to look grim for Detroit Inc. GM is probably doing the best overall job of the big 2.5, but that is not saying much. Toyota is the global car company which most thoroughly has it’s act together and they are gaining momentum by the day. John

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> Then get something like the Vibe with the large engine and manual trans. > Build quality is better than a typical GM vehicle, and it has plenty > of power. Clutch jobs are cheap as well.

Yes, Toyota can built a good Pontiac. Sad.