85 T/A

Question:

That and the extent of the damage I did see when I decided to give a second look on Sunday… well, evaporator canister behind the driver side headlight being held up with a license plate so it didn’t fall through the rust hole. Battery on the passenger side, wired to the fender and a plate of aluminum under the thing to keep that from falling through that rust hole. 3" rust holes on the inner fenders around shock mounts. Rust holes above and below both hinges, AND along the bottom edge of the driver side door. Not sure how it managed to NOT fall off. Never even opened the other door. Rear hatch, missing spoiler (metal clips were still there though…wow).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> $2500 for an 85 T/A with front end damage??? > What’s that guy smoking? > Jay S > Quite a bit of front end damage… Not gonna waste my time. Kind of a > wasted > trip… Ah well…. NEXT > LOL > John

Response:

> $2500 for an 85 T/A with front end damage??? > What’s that guy smoking?

I dunno, but its got to be illegal..LOLOL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Jay S > Quite a bit of front end damage… Not gonna waste my time. Kind of a > wasted > trip… Ah well…. NEXT > LOL > John > > First off I know it’s a bad so please forgive the cross-post. I was > looking > > for responses before I went to this guys house this afternoon… > > Going to look at it today (5.0, 5 speed). Are there any points to look > at > on > > these beasts? New brakes all around (disk), rubber,  floor, and exhaust. > The > > guy is asking $2500 (Canadian). From the image I saw, it doesn’t have > > T-tops. I called the guy. He’s the second owner. He just bought a > mini-van > > (his kids are getting too big to fit in the back… LMAO BTDT). > > Are there any notorious trouble areas to be on the lookout for? He never > > said (mind you, I never asked either) whether or not it was TPI or 4 BBL > ( I > > went to http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml to get more > info > > on the 3rd gens…). You know, things that get overlooked in a quick > > viewing. Aside from the obvious, floors inside and out, inner fenders, > > rubber trim, u-joints, etc. > > I’d like to be armed with enough info and questions to make a decent > > decision, but at the same time I don’t want to insult the guy. Mileage > on > > the engine isn’t really a concern to me.  Being affiliated with a > wrecking > > yard has me at an advantage for parts (depending on what I need). I’m > not > > concerned with matching numbers really. > > Sorry, started rambling. Anyway, I’ll stop for now. Look forward to any > and > > all responses. > > Thanks > > John

Response:

I had a chance at 2 85 T/As one was rusted, but noone was asking 2500

Response:

is the the same CBHVAC i used to see on the camaro/firebird NG?

Response:

Yup…same smartass me…:) Been a while since seen you post in here…you must be over in the FB group now..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> is the the same CBHVAC i used to see on the camaro/firebird NG?

Response:

> is the the same CBHVAC i used to see on the camaro/firebird NG?

probably… same bastard asshole I haven’t talked to in months…. god I hate him… he told me to ditch my award-winning drag Camaro for a Honda Accord ’cause it gets better gas mileage…. BTW, I got lotsa stuff to sell, including red Type R badges and Carbon Fiber hoods and wings…(hopefully, I’ll agitate him into tellin’ me where everyone gathers on IRC now with this post… heh heh)

Response:

Ok bitch…:) Its not like you dont have the addy..:) Fingers broke??

> is the the same CBHVAC i used to see on the camaro/firebird NG? > probably… same bastard asshole I haven’t talked to in months..

thats button #1 >.. god I > hate him.

Liar..:) .. he told me to ditch my award-winning drag Camaro for a Honda > Accord ’cause it gets better gas mileage..

THAT my friend…is YOUR fuckup….:) >.. BTW, I got lotsa stuff to sell, > including red Type R badges and Carbon Fiber hoods and wings…(hopefully, > I’ll agitate him into tellin’ me where everyone gathers on IRC now with this > post… heh heh)

Not a chance..LOL… actually…IRC is dead..most of us have hit MSN like idiots..LOL

Response:

> Ok bitch…:) > Its not like you dont have the addy..:) > Fingers broke??

heh heh actually, I don’t have the addy anymore due to a system crash that I wasn’t responsible for… beararr79atattbidotcom is my address, so refresh what I used to have =)  BTW, I recently bought a ‘98 T-Top Z… I like it a lot, it’s just kindof a bitch that it’s starting to get too cold to take the T’s off at night… heh heh

Response:

Oh great,  now this kid hijacked MY THREAD…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> is the the same CBHVAC i used to see on the camaro/firebird NG? > probably… same bastard asshole I haven’t talked to in months…. god I > hate him… he told me to ditch my award-winning drag Camaro for a Honda > Accord ’cause it gets better gas mileage…. BTW, I got lotsa stuff to sell, > including red Type R badges and Carbon Fiber hoods and wings…(hopefully, > I’ll agitate him into tellin’ me where everyone gathers on IRC now with this > post… heh heh)

Response:

Im gonna head back over to ther Camaro/Firebird group….the ‘Bird group sux — Jason Sobol Cleveland, Ohio Custom 1986 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 Custom 1998 GMC Sonoma 4×4 founder, Rock Capitol Camaro/Firebird http://rockcapcambird.tripod.com http://www.blackta.com (my personal site)

Response:

kinda late [osting, but if yer still looking for a T/A, how about an 86..rustfree,w/t/tops/5.o  auto in real nice shape?..I’d take 3000 for it now..but in the spring..4500

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had a chance at 2 85 T/As one was rusted, but noone was asking 2500

Response:

That sucker better have about 20 miles on  it too for that price… You can get a 4th gen for that.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> kinda late [osting, but if yer still looking for a T/A, how about an > 86..rustfree,w/t/tops/5.o  auto in real nice shape?..I’d take 3000 for it > now..but in the spring..4500 > I had a chance at 2 85 T/As one was rusted, but noone was asking 2500

Response:

$2500 for an 85 T/A with front end damage??? What’s that guy smoking? Jay S

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Quite a bit of front end damage… Not gonna waste my time. Kind of a wasted > trip… Ah well…. NEXT > LOL > John > First off I know it’s a bad so please forgive the cross-post. I was > looking > for responses before I went to this guys house this afternoon… > Going to look at it today (5.0, 5 speed). Are there any points to look at > on > these beasts? New brakes all around (disk), rubber,  floor, and exhaust. > The > guy is asking $2500 (Canadian). From the image I saw, it doesn’t have > T-tops. I called the guy. He’s the second owner. He just bought a mini-van > (his kids are getting too big to fit in the back… LMAO BTDT). > Are there any notorious trouble areas to be on the lookout for? He never > said (mind you, I never asked either) whether or not it was TPI or 4 BBL > ( I > went to http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml to get more > info > on the 3rd gens…). You know, things that get overlooked in a quick > viewing. Aside from the obvious, floors inside and out, inner fenders, > rubber trim, u-joints, etc. > I’d like to be armed with enough info and questions to make a decent > decision, but at the same time I don’t want to insult the guy. Mileage on > the engine isn’t really a concern to me.  Being affiliated with a wrecking > yard has me at an advantage for parts (depending on what I need). I’m not > concerned with matching numbers really. > Sorry, started rambling. Anyway, I’ll stop for now. Look forward to any > and > all responses. > Thanks > John

Response:

First off I know it’s a bad so please forgive the cross-post. I was looking for responses before I went to this guys house this afternoon… Going to look at it today (5.0, 5 speed). Are there any points to look at on these beasts? New brakes all around (disk), rubber,  floor, and exhaust. The guy is asking $2500 (Canadian). From the image I saw, it doesn’t have T-tops. I called the guy. He’s the second owner. He just bought a mini-van (his kids are getting too big to fit in the back… LMAO BTDT). Are there any notorious trouble areas to be on the lookout for? He never said (mind you, I never asked either) whether or not it was TPI or 4 BBL ( I went to http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml to get more info on the 3rd gens…). You know, things that get overlooked in a quick viewing. Aside from the obvious, floors inside and out, inner fenders, rubber trim, u-joints, etc. I’d like to be armed with enough info and questions to make a decent decision, but at the same time I don’t want to insult the guy. Mileage on the engine isn’t really a concern to me.  Being affiliated with a wrecking yard has me at an advantage for parts (depending on what I need). I’m not concerned with matching numbers really. Sorry, started rambling. Anyway, I’ll stop for now. Look forward to any and all responses. Thanks John

Response:

Quite a bit of front end damage… Not gonna waste my time. Kind of a wasted trip… Ah well…. NEXT LOL John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> First off I know it’s a bad so please forgive the cross-post. I was looking > for responses before I went to this guys house this afternoon… > Going to look at it today (5.0, 5 speed). Are there any points to look at on > these beasts? New brakes all around (disk), rubber,  floor, and exhaust. The > guy is asking $2500 (Canadian). From the image I saw, it doesn’t have > T-tops. I called the guy. He’s the second owner. He just bought a mini-van > (his kids are getting too big to fit in the back… LMAO BTDT). > Are there any notorious trouble areas to be on the lookout for? He never > said (mind you, I never asked either) whether or not it was TPI or 4 BBL ( I > went to http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml to get more info > on the 3rd gens…). You know, things that get overlooked in a quick > viewing. Aside from the obvious, floors inside and out, inner fenders, > rubber trim, u-joints, etc. > I’d like to be armed with enough info and questions to make a decent > decision, but at the same time I don’t want to insult the guy. Mileage on > the engine isn’t really a concern to me.  Being affiliated with a wrecking > yard has me at an advantage for parts (depending on what I need). I’m not > concerned with matching numbers really. > Sorry, started rambling. Anyway, I’ll stop for now. Look forward to any and > all responses. > Thanks > John

Response:

tonneau cover with spoiler

Question:

I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma and I saw (on an F-150) a tonneau cover that had a spoiler. My question is, can I get them with the spoiler and/or can I add them after by just buying a regular one? — If I could get a firm grip on reality, I’d choke it!

Response:

I think you need to buy the 2 parts and install the spoiler onto the tonneau… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma and I saw (on an F-150) a tonneau cover that had a >spoiler. My question is, can I get them with the spoiler and/or can I add >them after by just buying a regular one?

Response:

Not too much pressure for just the fiberglass cover? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think you need to buy the 2 parts and install the spoiler onto the > tonneau… >I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma and I saw (on an F-150) a tonneau cover that had a >spoiler. My question is, can I get them with the spoiler and/or can I add >them after by just buying a regular one?

Response:

Any ECM/PCM Experts in here?

Question:

It seems like on at least some engines, that particular diagnostic is only enabled when the coolant temperature reaches the regular thermostat opening temperature (194 degrees F). If you had a 160 degree thermostat, it might never be enabled. I would be tempted to try a few more degrees of spark advance to see if that keeps it happy. If that isn’t practical, I’d maybe look into a custom PCM program with that particular diagnostic disabled.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> BINGO! > That’s exactly what’s happening Robert.  In lieu of a KS signal, the PCM > defaults to full retard, and the truck’s a pig until the code is cleared. > The question is why is it doing this?  Why isn’t my engine knocking?  Did I > just build it too well or should I be running 87/89 to induce some knock? I > wouldn’t think the 4 deg. BTDC would be enough to screw with it enough to > set a code.  Maybe I should (can’t believe I’m saying this) induce some > knocking by advancing the timing a few degrees at a time to see if the > problem goes away. > I thought of something when I first woke up this morning.  I never had > problems with ESC (code 43) while running a 160F thermostat.  The problems > arose after I switched back to the 195F t-stat.  Funny thing is though, > you’d think a hotter engine would induce MORE detonation, not less! > Doc > When you go to full throttle, the PCM expects to detect some knock with > the > standard spark advance settings it uses. If it doesn’t, it assumes the > knock > sensor is not functioning, sets code 43, and probably goes to full-retard > spark advance settings, which probably explains the massive power loss you > saw afterwards.. > — > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > > Hi guys, > > I’m a regular over at alt.trucks.chevy but figured I’d post my stumping > > situation here as well!  Hopefully someone in one of these groups has > > experienced a similar problem at some point in time with an OBD-I > system. > > So, here goes! > > Well, the code 43 (electronic spark control system malfunction) > persists. > I > > <thought> I had it pinned down to an aftermarket A/C high-pressure > cutoff > > switch causing a PCM brain fart under full throttle, as the code would > only > > set when I mashed it with the A/C on.  The code was set today (actually, > > about 15 mins ago on my way home) without the A/C on when I mashed the > pedal > > to race my wife’s Sonoma in the other lane! > > Vehicle specifics: > > 1988 GMC Sierra SLX w/305 TBI and TH400. > > 128,000 miles, 28,000 since engine rebuild. > > Entire ignition system (including PCM) is about 6 months old > > Electronic spark control module is brand new > > Knock sensor is brand new > > So, I replaced the entire electronic spark control system and STILL am > > getting the code 43.  Here’s how it happens.  When I mash the go pedal, > I > > get an amazing surge of power (the most power I’ve EVER felt from ANY > > doggish 305!) that lasts about 3 seconds, then the engine bogs down, I > have > > NO power and the SES light comes on with a code 43 being set.  The code > > disappears after a few minutes and engine operation returns to normal. > > All of the wiring connections are clean and the KS wire is new, as I > found > > the old one had been singed by the exhaust manifold, which I originally > > thought was the source of my code 43 woes. > > I’m going to check if my new PCM is still under warranty as maybe it’s a > PCM > > malfunction?  Would my timing being slighty off spec cause this error? > I > > have it set 4 deg. BTDC (spec is 0 deg. BTDC) to compensate for the 60 > over > > bore and high compression pistons/rings (9.5:1).  I’ve had it set at 4 > deg. > > BTDC since I replaced the ignition system (about 6 months) and haven’t > had > > any problems thus far. > > Any thoughts?  Any at all?  Now that I know what this motor is capable > of > > (my 3 second surge of immense power!) I want to find a way to fix the > ESC > > problem and find out where the extra horsies are coming from. > > TIA! > > Doc

Response:

It seems to differ depending on the engine/VIN code as to whether or not it works this way. However, some of them certainly do. For example, the code description for 86-89 5.0L FI, VIN F for code 43 is "The ECM did not detect a knock signal during near wide open throttle operation with coolant temperature above 194

GMC Sonoma Remote Oil Filter Adapter

Question:

Hi, Does anyone have any suggestions for replacing a remote oil filter adapter? I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma 4×4 with a stock remote oil filter adapter. The adapter is made of aluminum and it corroded at the mounting holes since the mounting studs are made of steel.  GM designers were not using their heads on this. The bi-metallic corrosion is pretty bad.  If anyone knows of a steel version of the stock adapter, that would be great.  Otherwise, any ideas on how to prevent corrosion on the aluminum replacement would also be helpful. Thanks. Rich

Response:

Dielectric grease, or paint it. GW > Hi, > Does anyone have any suggestions for replacing a remote oil filter adapter? > I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma 4×4 with a stock remote oil filter adapter. The > adapter is made of aluminum and it corroded at the mounting holes since the > mounting studs are made of steel.  GM designers were not using their heads > on this. The bi-metallic corrosion is pretty bad.  If anyone knows of a > steel version of the stock adapter, that would be great.  Otherwise, any > ideas on how to prevent corrosion on the aluminum replacement would also be > helpful. > Thanks. > Rich

– or click on

Response:

GMC Sonoma – Chassis Lube Question

Question:

> PYATS. > Some kid I went to school with thought a grease job was putting grease > on the fittings themselves.

That’s a good one > Harryface > ( Who’s 68 Buick had grease fittings on the u joints & Center bearing > support )

Those were some heavy drive shafts… and expensive, too.

Response:

> You don’t.  Some u-joints (particularly aftermarket ones) have drilled holes > in > the center which cross and go to each spoke of the joint.  There’s a grease > fitting > in the center which you can pump grease into, the grease goes out the > drilled holes > lubes the needle bearings in each spoke. > The only problem with this scheme is that the grease passages make the > u-joint weaker.

Hmmm. Gonna have to look at that one more closely. Anyhoo, what about the propshaft splines? Where are they, and how do I lubricate them? Mike Doerner

Response:

PYATS. Some kid I went to school with thought a grease job was putting grease on the fittings themselves. Harryface ( Who’s 68 Buick had grease fittings on the u joints & Center bearing support ) Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, 229,000 miles 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door,  1980 – 83 2. 1968 Buick  LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88,  1986 -91 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000

Response:

"Michael R. Doerner" wrote > If there is, I didn’t see one. Can anyone enlighten me?

If you have a one piece rear drive shaft, then no…you won’t have any grease nipples.  Sometimes it’s not a bad idea to lubricate the slip yoke then goes into the rear of the trans/transfer case (depending on whether it’s a 2 or 4 wheel drive) and GM has a special lubricant for this purpose.  Believe it or not, it’s called GM Special Lubricant.  A lot of the full size trucks have a problem with the slip yoke hanging up on the splines of the output shafts causing a funny little bump that you feel when coming to a stop and/or starting off at a light.  We used to fix this with the lubricant, but GM has now come out with a change up yoke that is "nickle plated".  This only applies to certain models. If you have a two piece drive shaft, the rear drive shaft will have a grease nipple on the side of the slip yoke.  None of the u-joints have grease nipples anymore. Ian

Response:

>> > I would hope there is a grease fitting on the driveshaft and U joints. > If there is, I didn’t see one. Can anyone enlighten me? > Mike Doerner >Harry was probably wondering how & why one would smear grease >on U-joints?  I’m kind of wondering the same thing.

You don’t.  Some u-joints (particularly aftermarket ones) have drilled holes in the center which cross and go to each spoke of the joint.  There’s a grease fitting in the center which you can pump grease into, the grease goes out the drilled holes lubes the needle bearings in each spoke. The only problem with this scheme is that the grease passages make the u-joint weaker. —

Response:

I would hope there is a grease fitting on the driveshaft and U joints. H

Response:

> I would hope there is a grease fitting on the driveshaft and U joints. > H

If there is, I didn’t see one. Can anyone enlighten me? Mike Doerner

Response:

> > I would hope there is a grease fitting on the driveshaft and U joints. > If there is, I didn’t see one. Can anyone enlighten me? > Mike Doerner

Harry was probably wondering how & why one would smear grease on U-joints?  I’m kind of wondering the same thing.

Response:

The manual describes the various areas that require lubrication on my 2001 GMC Sonoma, The U-Joints, paking brake cable guides, steering, etc.. And the propshaft splines. My questions are. 1.) Where/What are the propshaft splines? Is this on the main driveshaft? Or is the for the front axle? 2.) What is the proper way to lubricate them? Is there a grease fitting, or do I smear it on like the u-joints? Thanks. Mike Doerner

Response:

fuel filter

Question:

I have a ‘94 GMC Sonoma and need to know how to change the fuel filter.  I am new to trying minor repair on my own.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jeff

Response:

One word of advice….release the pressure from the tank by opening the cap……I had fun when the gas sprayed me in the face…heh I got a little excited and tried to sit up….wacking my nose ……I came out from under the car covered in gas and blood looked like swamp thing…..also always clamp both ends of the hose…I know it’s a given but hey you wanted some help Chris

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a ‘94 GMC Sonoma and need to know how to change the fuel filter.  I > am new to trying minor repair on my own.  Any help would be greatly > appreciated. > Jeff

Response:

Could anyone tell me where the fuel filter is located on the 96 explorer XLT 6cyl??  The dealer said they had to go under the back seat to get to it, but when I looked back there and lifted the carpet and stuff I saw no bolts that had been undone (the paint was still on them nicely) or anything that would look like it could get to the underside of the car.   Thanks.

Response:

>Could anyone tell me where the fuel filter is located on the 96 explorer

 on the drivers side frame rail almostr directly under the drivers seat.

Response:

> >Could anyone tell me where the fuel filter is located on the 96 explorer >  on the drivers side frame rail almostr directly under the drivers seat.

FYI – You need a special tool to remove the filter from Ford Quick Connects.  If you don’t have the tool, you may damage the quick connects and then you’ll have real problems.  I’ve seen the tool and it’s nothing too special (IOW it looks like it can’t cost too much). C_YA KAB

Response:

small truck advice

Question:

>I just bought a 2000.  While they are not perfect they are nice little >trucks.  I was surprised that the little 2.2L could move it pretty well, but >if you have the money go for the 4.3L, the 2.2 has trouble passing on the >highway and is kind of buzzy, but I didn’t care what engine I got because I >want to swap a v-8 in a few years.  I got my 88 with 70k on it after it was

Wow… doesn’t look like a whole lotta room in my 2001 S10 4.3L to get a V8 in there.  Lemme know if you manage to wedge it in  I’m scared to try and do anything with the 6, let alone an 8.

Response:

The V-8 is the same width as a 4.3, just longer.  The 4.3 is a 5.7 V-8 with 2 cylinders missing so the swap is pretty straight-forward.  I think without re-locating anything, you need to use an e-fan… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I just bought a 2000.  While they are not perfect they are nice little >trucks.  I was surprised that the little 2.2L could move it pretty well, but >if you have the money go for the 4.3L, the 2.2 has trouble passing on the >highway and is kind of buzzy, but I didn’t care what engine I got because I >want to swap a v-8 in a few years.  I got my 88 with 70k on it after it was > Wow… doesn’t look like a whole lotta room in my 2001 S10 4.3L to get > a V8 in there.  Lemme know if you manage to wedge it in  I’m scared > to try and do anything with the 6, let alone an 8.

Response:

Hi Brian: I had an ‘87 reg. cab with 2.5L, 4 speed (2WD) that I bought as a wreck and fixed up.  I had it 7 years and only replaced the muffler and front brakes. It had 250 000 miles on it when I retired it last fall.  I absolutely loved it.  Got a ‘97 Sonoma ext. cab with the 4.3L auto (2WD).  Its a nice truck and moves right along, but the mileage is a bit of a shocker after the ‘87. I figure on a good day with a strong tail wind, I get 23 mpg. Andy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi!  I am looking at getting a small truck.  I have been looking at the > S10/Sonoma mostly and am wondering if anybody has anything good/bad to say > about them.  I want an extended cab for the extra room because the regular > cabs seem kind of cramped.  I am looking at 1999-2002 models. either new or > used.  I would appreciate any advice or comments.  Thank you. > Brian

Response:

23 MPG is good for a 4.3L.  I’ve gotten 21 on the highway, not drafting anyone, going 70-75, from southern NJ to upstate NY… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Brian: > I had an ‘87 reg. cab with 2.5L, 4 speed (2WD) that I bought as a wreck and > fixed up.  I had it 7 years and only replaced the muffler and front brakes. > It had 250 000 miles on it when I retired it last fall.  I absolutely loved > it.  Got a ‘97 Sonoma ext. cab with the 4.3L auto (2WD).  Its a nice truck > and moves right along, but the mileage is a bit of a shocker after the ‘87. > I figure on a good day with a strong tail wind, I get 23 mpg. > Andy >Hi!  I am looking at getting a small truck.  I have been looking at the >S10/Sonoma mostly and am wondering if anybody has anything good/bad to say >about them.  I want an extended cab for the extra room because the regular >cabs seem kind of cramped.  I am looking at 1999-2002 models. either new > or >used.  I would appreciate any advice or comments.  Thank you. >Brian

Response:

Its also good for the 2.2L. Eugene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 23 MPG is good for a 4.3L.  I’ve gotten 21 on the highway, not drafting > anyone, going 70-75, from southern NJ to upstate NY… > Hi Brian: > I had an ‘87 reg. cab with 2.5L, 4 speed (2WD) that I bought as a wreck and > fixed up.  I had it 7 years and only replaced the muffler and front brakes. > It had 250 000 miles on it when I retired it last fall.  I absolutely loved > it.  Got a ‘97 Sonoma ext. cab with the 4.3L auto (2WD).  Its a nice truck > and moves right along, but the mileage is a bit of a shocker after the ‘87. > I figure on a good day with a strong tail wind, I get 23 mpg. > Andy >>Hi!  I am looking at getting a small truck.  I have been looking at the >>S10/Sonoma mostly and am wondering if anybody has anything good/bad to say >>about them.  I want an extended cab for the extra room because the regular >>cabs seem kind of cramped.  I am looking at 1999-2002 models. either new > or >>used.  I would appreciate any advice or comments.  Thank you. >>Brian

Response:

Brother has a 1991 Chevy S – 10 4X4 reegular cab, two tone,  with 220,000 miles. No rust. engine never taken apart, original trans…. Has had very good luck with it in   -60 below Minnesota winters Harryface 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door,  1980 – 83 2. 1968 Buick  LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88,  1986 -91 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE, 1991 to ? ? 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000

Response:

>I personally don’t think much of that 2.2 liter engine because of its long >history of head gasket failures.  Other than that, I think the trucks are >pretty good.  At work they had a ”94 for the parts truck, and I always >thought it was pretty light in the back for driving on snow.  If you are in >snow county, I recommend a 4×4 if at all possible. >-NC

Brian, I second Nicks’s opinion of the 2.2L engine.  Get the 4.3L and don’t look back.  You will have lot’s of fun trying to even move that truck with anything in it, or on the freeway with the 2.2L.  Ever driven a 95+ Cavalier?  Same deal  Get the 4×4 if you can (or need), resale on a 4×2 drops like a rock in snow country, even with the V6.  Having said that, I got the 4×2 in Michigan, because it was all I could afford.  However, I do have a TrailBlazer & a beater Corsica to back it up in the snow

Response:

Hi!  I am looking at getting a small truck.  I have been looking at the S10/Sonoma mostly and am wondering if anybody has anything good/bad to say about them.  I want an extended cab for the extra room because the regular cabs seem kind of cramped.  I am looking at 1999-2002 models. either new or used.  I would appreciate any advice or comments.  Thank you. Brian

Response:

I just bought a 2000.  While they are not perfect they are nice little trucks.  I was surprised that the little 2.2L could move it pretty well, but if you have the money go for the 4.3L, the 2.2 has trouble passing on the highway and is kind of buzzy, but I didn’t care what engine I got because I want to swap a v-8 in a few years.  I got my 88 with 70k on it after it was mud raced, repo’ed and auctioned off.  We hauled over 1 ton of lumber on it over a WV mountain, then took took some cows to the sale, before took it to columbus to college.  I wrecked it twice and it was stolen once.  It wasn’t untill It had 170k on it and things started to rust out from its early years at the mud races (all the undercoating was torn off, the cab had mud under the carpet, sctatches all over).  I moved all my stuff through 4 apartments and a house (lost of electronic and computer equipment as well as office furniture that I got dumpster diving).  I drove it through at least 10 states working as a emergency reapir tech for 911 systems.  People tell me theie import was so great because they got 100k miles on it and then I find out that all they ever did was drive it to and from work, they never abused it like I did.  My brake jobs cost me $20 for either shoes or pads and I still have the original rotors and just replaced the original clutch at 170k (not bad when you take into account I learned to drive stick on it).  The only breakdowns were do to the rust, the gas tank bottom rested and started leaking, then the radiator rotted out and blew on the highway causing the engine to overheat and took the head gasket before I could get stopped.  I almost finished rebuilding the engine myself when I got a new job and the wife said I had to buy a new truck, so I bought another S-10.  Now I can affore to take better care of this one (actually change the oil and wash it more than once a year), so it should last me a long time. Eugene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi!  I am looking at getting a small truck.  I have been looking at the > S10/Sonoma mostly and am wondering if anybody has anything good/bad to say > about them.  I want an extended cab for the extra room because the regular > cabs seem kind of cramped.  I am looking at 1999-2002 models. either new or > used.  I would appreciate any advice or comments.  Thank you. > Brian

Response:

Thanks Eugene for your response.  Is your truck a regular or extended cab? I’m leaning toward the extended cab myself.  I would like to get the 4.3, because I heard they go like a bat out of hell, but I will probably have to go with the 2.2 for purchase price and gas mileaage reasons.  I welcome any more comments you have on them, and once again, thank you. Brian

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just bought a 2000.  While they are not perfect they are nice little > trucks.  I was surprised that the little 2.2L could move it pretty well, but > if you have the money go for the 4.3L, the 2.2 has trouble passing on the > highway and is kind of buzzy, but I didn’t care what engine I got because I > want to swap a v-8 in a few years.  I got my 88 with 70k on it after it was > mud raced, repo’ed and auctioned off.  We hauled over 1 ton of lumber on it > over a WV mountain, then took took some cows to the sale, before took it to > columbus to college.  I wrecked it twice and it was stolen once.  It wasn’t > untill It had 170k on it and things started to rust out from its early years > at the mud races (all the undercoating was torn off, the cab had mud under > the carpet, sctatches all over).  I moved all my stuff through 4 apartments > and a house (lost of electronic and computer equipment as well as office > furniture that I got dumpster diving).  I drove it through at least 10 > states working as a emergency reapir tech for 911 systems.  People tell me > theie import was so great because they got 100k miles on it and then I find > out that all they ever did was drive it to and from work, they never abused > it like I did.  My brake jobs cost me $20 for either shoes or pads and I > still have the original rotors and just replaced the original clutch at 170k > (not bad when you take into account I learned to drive stick on it).  The > only breakdowns were do to the rust, the gas tank bottom rested and started > leaking, then the radiator rotted out and blew on the highway causing the > engine to overheat and took the head gasket before I could get stopped.  I > almost finished rebuilding the engine myself when I got a new job and the > wife said I had to buy a new truck, so I bought another S-10.  Now I can > affore to take better care of this one (actually change the oil and wash it > more than once a year), so it should last me a long time. > Eugene

Response:

Brain, I personally don’t think much of that 2.2 liter engine because of its long history of head gasket failures.  Other than that, I think the trucks are pretty good.  At work they had a ”94 for the parts truck, and I always thought it was pretty light in the back for driving on snow.  If you are in snow county, I recommend a 4×4 if at all possible. -NC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi!  I am looking at getting a small truck.  I have been looking at the > S10/Sonoma mostly and am wondering if anybody has anything good/bad to say > about them.  I want an extended cab for the extra room because the regular > cabs seem kind of cramped.  I am looking at 1999-2002 models. either new or > used.  I would appreciate any advice or comments.  Thank you. > Brian

Response:

Mine is the extended cab, that is about the only thing I ever wanted to change about my old one.  I will probabally never will have anyone in the back but I like to have the extra space.  The 2.2 was cheaper , but the gas milage is not really any better, at least going from manual to auto tranny, plus the 4×4 is nor available with the 2.2.  I wish I had gotten 4×4 on this one, espically with the crappy tires they put on it.  I want to put a locker in the back to help out. Eugene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks Eugene for your response.  Is your truck a regular or extended cab? > I’m leaning toward the extended cab myself.  I would like to get the 4.3, > because I heard they go like a bat out of hell, but I will probably have to > go with the 2.2 for purchase price and gas mileaage reasons.  I welcome any > more comments you have on them, and once again, thank you. > Brian > I just bought a 2000.  While they are not perfect they are nice little > trucks.  I was surprised that the little 2.2L could move it pretty well, > but > if you have the money go for the 4.3L, the 2.2 has trouble passing on the > highway and is kind of buzzy, but I didn’t care what engine I got because > I > want to swap a v-8 in a few years.  I got my 88 with 70k on it after it > was > mud raced, repo’ed and auctioned off.  We hauled over 1 ton of lumber on > it > over a WV mountain, then took took some cows to the sale, before took it > to > columbus to college.  I wrecked it twice and it was stolen once.  It > wasn’t > untill It had 170k on it and things started to rust out from its early > years > at the mud races (all the undercoating was torn off, the cab had mud under > the carpet, sctatches all over).  I moved all my stuff through 4 > apartments > and a house (lost of electronic and computer equipment as well as office > furniture that I got dumpster diving).  I drove it through at least 10 > states working as a emergency reapir tech for 911 systems.  People tell me > theie import was so great because they got 100k miles on it and then I > find > out that all they ever did was drive it to and from work, they never > abused > it like I did.  My brake jobs cost me $20 for either shoes or pads and I > still have the original rotors and just replaced the original clutch at > 170k > (not bad when you take into account I learned to drive stick on it). The > only breakdowns were do to the rust, the gas tank bottom rested and > started > leaking, then the radiator rotted out and blew on the highway causing the > engine to overheat and took the head gasket before I could get stopped. I > almost finished rebuilding the engine myself when I got a new job and the > wife said I had to buy a new truck, so I bought another S-10.  Now I can > affore to take better care of this one (actually change the oil and wash > it > more than once a year), so it should last me a long time. > Eugene

Response:

Tach wire at IG module

Question:

Thanks Kevin.  I read a previous post of their "quality".  My system isn’t a Bulldog.  If their information is correct, it seems GM may have kept the color but changed the pin location; my book has the white wire in pin A; my truck has a white wire in pin B.   I’ll check it out later today after a couple hours sleep.  Thanks again. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This is from the Bulldog security web site (I’m not real fond of their > remotes, but info is info). looks like a white wire. > http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/wires/gmcsonoma00-01.htm

Response:

Kevin and Robert, Thanks for your help.  I received some help from an RX-7 group (of all places) that was dead on.  The Bulldog site was good and listed a white wire at the coil but I decided the information received from the RX-7 group was clearer so I followed it.  I made the connection suggested and the system recognized the tach signal.  It’s a white wire at pin 10 on the BCM 80 pin connector on my 2.2L 2000 Sonoma.  There is no continuity from the white wire at the IG module to the white wire at the BCM.  Now to get over the Passlock system and the clutch switch. Martin

Response:

The vehicle is a 2000 Sonoma 2.2L manual with distributorless ignition. I’m installing, well attempting to install a remote starter. Anyone know which wire goes to the tach signal at the ignition module six wire plug?  My ‘94-96’s manual wire colors don’t match all the wire colors on the 2000 truck and I couldn’t find a 2000 manual.  I guessed GM changed the wire colors but kept the routing the same; maybe I was wrong.  My manual says pin A at the ignition module goes to the tach, but (I think) the remote starter is not sensing a tach signal.  My splice is making good connection to pin A. Any help or insight finding an online manual or wire diagram is greatly appreciated. Martin

Response:

Martin, This is from the Bulldog security web site (I’m not real fond of their remotes, but info is info). looks like a white wire. http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/wires/gmcsonoma00-01.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The vehicle is a 2000 Sonoma 2.2L manual with > distributorless ignition. > I’m installing, well attempting to install a remote starter. > Anyone know which wire goes to the tach signal at the > ignition module six wire plug?  My ‘94-96’s manual wire > colors don’t match all the wire colors on the 2000 truck and > I couldn’t find a 2000 manual.  I guessed GM changed the > wire colors but kept the routing the same; maybe I was > wrong.  My manual says pin A at the ignition module goes to > the tach, but (I think) the remote starter is not sensing a > tach signal.  My splice is making good connection to pin A. > Any help or insight finding an online manual or wire diagram > is greatly appreciated. > Martin

Response:

Hmm, the schematic shows the white wire to be ignition control for #1/#4 cylinders from the ECM to the ignition module. I suppose that would work, sort of.. hopefully the starter doesn’t drag down the signal or it’ll screw up the ignition.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Martin, > This is from the Bulldog security web site (I’m not real fond of their > remotes, but info is info). looks like a white wire. > http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/wires/gmcsonoma00-01.htm > The vehicle is a 2000 Sonoma 2.2L manual with > distributorless ignition. > I’m installing, well attempting to install a remote starter. > Anyone know which wire goes to the tach signal at the > ignition module six wire plug?  My ‘94-96’s manual wire > colors don’t match all the wire colors on the 2000 truck and > I couldn’t find a 2000 manual.  I guessed GM changed the > wire colors but kept the routing the same; maybe I was > wrong.  My manual says pin A at the ignition module goes to > the tach, but (I think) the remote starter is not sensing a > tach signal.  My splice is making good connection to pin A. > Any help or insight finding an online manual or wire diagram > is greatly appreciated. > Martin

Response:

Trailer towing with 90 Astro

Question:

Thanks, Did you ever find that it couldn’t hold the speed limit up the hills with that big trailer? 7000lbs is a little bigger than what we are looking at, but it give me a good idea about a 4000lb trailer. Ryan. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who >> > > have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van. > I have a ‘91 G20 w/ a 4.3L and I tow a 7000LB trailer around NE Ohio (hills > aren’t too bad).  I can’t say i’m not impressed w/ its ability to move, it > handles the load pretty decent.  I tow in 3rd gear (not overdrive).  I know its > not the same van as yours, but it is a little bigger, so maybe this helps you > out.

Response:

You need to be careful.  The max towing capacity with a new (01) astro with your differential (not AWD which will decrease it even more) is 5000 pounds with driver only, (nothing else) in the van.  Add anything else in the van and take that off the tow capacity.

Response:

I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van. We are thinking of buying a 16 to 20 foot holiday trailer. We have a full size truck, but its not an extended cab so we would like to use the van for pulling the trailer. My main concerns are if the 4.3 has enough power to pull a trailer this size at highway speeds. I’m not expecting much up hills, but I would hope for at least 90Km/h up hills. I live in Alberta, so I could remove the Catalytic converter if I have to get more power. Anyone else cut the Cat out and get good results? I was also thinking of going to an electric fan too (not much of a difference, but it wouldn’t hurt). External tranny cooler is a given too. Please, I don’t want to hear from people who "think" it doesn’t have enough power. Only reply if you have had first hand experience please. Thanks. Ryan.

Response:

Have you checked your owners manual for ratings? The reason I ask is that while my 2000 Safari with the 4.3 Ltr is rated for 5,500 lbs towing capacity, some of the earlier models are a lot less — We have met the enemy, and they is us — Pogo

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who > have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van. > We are thinking of buying a 16 to 20 foot holiday trailer. We have a > full size truck, but its not an extended cab so we would like to use > the van for pulling the trailer. > My main concerns are if the 4.3 has enough power to pull a trailer > this size at highway speeds. I’m not expecting much up hills, but I > would hope for at least 90Km/h up hills. I live in Alberta, so I could > remove the Catalytic converter if I have to get more power. Anyone > else cut the Cat out and get good results? > I was also thinking of going to an electric fan too (not much of a > difference, but it wouldn’t hurt). External tranny cooler is a given > too. > Please, I don’t want to hear from people who "think" it doesn’t have > enough power. Only reply if you have had first hand experience please. > Thanks. > Ryan.

Response:

> Have you checked your owners manual for ratings? The reason I ask is that > while my 2000 Safari with the 4.3 Ltr is rated for 5,500 lbs towing > capacity, some of the earlier models are a lot less > — > We have met the enemy, and they is us — Pogo

I forgot to mention that I did check the ratings and the AWD is rated for 5000lbs (500 less than the two wheel drive). But that is not what I am concerned about. I realize it has enough brakes and suspension to handle it, but I don’t want to be driving with the pedal to the mat all the time. I just spoke to a guy who pulled his 25 foot trailer with a 2000 Envoy and he got 9mpg. Up steep hills he couldn’t go any faster than 70km/h. I don’t want to end up with the same problem. Ryan. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who > have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van. > We are thinking of buying a 16 to 20 foot holiday trailer. We have a > full size truck, but its not an extended cab so we would like to use > the van for pulling the trailer. > My main concerns are if the 4.3 has enough power to pull a trailer > this size at highway speeds. I’m not expecting much up hills, but I > would hope for at least 90Km/h up hills. I live in Alberta, so I could > remove the Catalytic converter if I have to get more power. Anyone > else cut the Cat out and get good results? > I was also thinking of going to an electric fan too (not much of a > difference, but it wouldn’t hurt). External tranny cooler is a given > too. > Please, I don’t want to hear from people who "think" it doesn’t have > enough power. Only reply if you have had first hand experience please. > Thanks. > Ryan.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have you checked your owners manual for ratings? The reason I ask is that > while my 2000 Safari with the 4.3 Ltr is rated for 5,500 lbs towing > capacity, some of the earlier models are a lot less > — > We have met the enemy, and they is us — Pogo > I forgot to mention that I did check the ratings and the AWD is rated > for 5000lbs (500 less than the two wheel drive). But that is not what > I am concerned about. I realize it has enough brakes and suspension to > handle it, but I don’t want to be driving with the pedal to the mat > all the time. I just spoke to a guy who pulled his 25 foot trailer > with a 2000 Envoy and he got 9mpg. Up steep hills he couldn’t go any > faster than 70km/h. I don’t want to end up with the same problem. > Ryan. > > I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who > > have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van. > > We are thinking of buying a 16 to 20 foot holiday trailer. We have a > > full size truck, but its not an extended cab so we would like to use > > the van for pulling the trailer. > > My main concerns are if the 4.3 has enough power to pull a trailer > > this size at highway speeds. I’m not expecting much up hills, but I > > would hope for at least 90Km/h up hills. I live in Alberta, so I could > > remove the Catalytic converter if I have to get more power. Anyone > > else cut the Cat out and get good results? > > I was also thinking of going to an electric fan too (not much of a > > difference, but it wouldn’t hurt). External tranny cooler is a given > > too. > > Please, I don’t want to hear from people who "think" it doesn’t have > > enough power. Only reply if you have had first hand experience please. > > Thanks. > > Ryan.

Can only tell you my experience. Had a ‘91 Sonoma with the 4.3L V6, automatic and 3.08 rear axle. Remember the ‘91 had 14" wheels so the effective axle ratio was actually lower compared to 15" wheels. Towed both a 3,600 lb 19′ Sunline 5th wheel and a 30′ Award trailer. The Award probably is more like what you’d be towing weight wise. I never had a problem moving the rig up hills. Towed the 5th from Syracuse, NY to St. Augustine, Fl and it was fine. Never held anybody up. Matter of fact, we had to beat feet on the return trip as I’d burned my feet bad the last day we were there. I can honestly say, the 4.3L was capable of more than 80 mph with the trailer behind. I got between 12 and 15+ mpg towing. It didn’t do quite as good with the Award, but we still towed it to Myrtle Beach, SC. Got closer to 11 to 14 mpg and again never held anybody up. Tow the same trailer now with a ‘96 Sierra ext cab, short box. Weight is almost the same as your van. Engine has lots more power as it’s the vortec 4.3L. It still handles the trailer well and we go to Florida every winter. Still get 11 to 14 mpg on regular unleaded. Another thing, I was going to install a transmission cooler on the GMC since it didn’t have the towing package. Haven’t done it yet. Truck has 82,000 miles, tranny fluid changed at 50,000 miles, clean and good smelling. Tech said the tranny pan was clean also. If we were going to do any extensive mountain driving though, I’d get the biggest one I could. Hugh

Response:

>I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who > > > have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van.

I have a ‘91 G20 w/ a 4.3L and I tow a 7000LB trailer around NE Ohio (hills aren’t too bad).  I can’t say i’m not impressed w/ its ability to move, it handles the load pretty decent.  I tow in 3rd gear (not overdrive).  I know its not the same van as yours, but it is a little bigger, so maybe this helps you out.

Response:

Thanks Hugh. I think we may go ahead with the trailer idea, I don’t think it will be too much of a problem. Our Van has a 3.42 ratio, so it should be ok. Ryan. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > I have a 1990 AWD Astro van and I would like to hear from people who > > > have towed holiday trailers with their Astro/Safari van. > > > We are thinking of buying a 16 to 20 foot holiday trailer. We have a > > > full size truck, but its not an extended cab so we would like to use > > > the van for pulling the trailer. > > > My main concerns are if the 4.3 has enough power to pull a trailer > > > this size at highway speeds. I’m not expecting much up hills, but I > > > would hope for at least 90Km/h up hills. I live in Alberta, so I could > > > remove the Catalytic converter if I have to get more power. Anyone > > > else cut the Cat out and get good results? > > > I was also thinking of going to an electric fan too (not much of a > > > difference, but it wouldn’t hurt). External tranny cooler is a given > > > too. > > > Please, I don’t want to hear from people who "think" it doesn’t have > > > enough power. Only reply if you have had first hand experience please. > > > Thanks. > > > Ryan. > Can only tell you my experience. Had a ‘91 Sonoma with the > 4.3L V6, automatic and 3.08 rear axle. Remember the ‘91 had > 14" wheels so the effective axle ratio was actually lower > compared to 15" wheels. Towed both a 3,600 lb 19′ Sunline > 5th wheel and a 30′ Award trailer. The Award probably is > more like what you’d be towing weight wise. I never had a > problem moving the rig up hills. Towed the 5th from > Syracuse, NY to St. Augustine, Fl and it was fine. Never > held anybody up. Matter of fact, we had to beat feet on the > return trip as I’d burned my feet bad the last day we were > there. I can honestly say, the 4.3L was capable of more than > 80 mph with the trailer behind. I got between 12 and 15+ mpg > towing. It didn’t do quite as good with the Award, but we > still towed it to Myrtle Beach, SC. Got closer to 11 to 14 > mpg and again never held anybody up. > Tow the same trailer now with a ‘96 Sierra ext cab, short > box. Weight is almost the same as your van. Engine has lots > more power as it’s the vortec 4.3L. It still handles the > trailer well and we go to Florida every winter. Still get 11 > to 14 mpg on regular unleaded. > Another thing, I was going to install a transmission cooler > on the GMC since it didn’t have the towing package. Haven’t > done it yet. Truck has 82,000 miles, tranny fluid changed at > 50,000 miles, clean and good smelling. Tech said the tranny > pan was clean also. If we were going to do any extensive > mountain driving though, I’d get the biggest one I could. > Hugh

Response:

Impala in Israel?

Question:

>              I thought the Impalas were exported to the Mid-East as Caprice > SS….I could be wrong though.

The middle east Caprice is a completely different animal from the current model Impala.

Response:

             I thought the Impalas were exported to the Mid-East as Caprice SS….I could be wrong though.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was watchings the news about the suicide bomb in Tel-Avia today. > Tragic.  Anyway, I could have sworn I saw a white Impala as a Police > car as well as a civilian one.  Does GM sell the Impala overseas under > a different name?

Response:

> I was watchings the news about the suicide bomb in Tel-Avia today. > Tragic.  Anyway, I could have sworn I saw a white Impala as a Police > car as well as a civilian one.  Does GM sell the Impala overseas under > a different name?

GM sells the Chevy Impala in Israel under its original name actually (though it isn’t used by the police). Other GM cars sold here are the Chevy Cavalier and Malibu, Olds Alero (named "Chevrolet Alero" over here), Buick LeSabre, Cadillac STS/SLS, and GMC Savana/Sierra/Sonoma/Safari. Oldsmobiles were imported until the early 90’s, and Pontiacs up to 1996 (Sunbird, Grand Prix, Bonneville). The Corsica, Lumina and Monte Carlo were also quite popular here, and there are even a few Berettas on the road.   Uri

Response:

I was watchings the news about the suicide bomb in Tel-Avia today. Tragic.  Anyway, I could have sworn I saw a white Impala as a Police car as well as a civilian one.  Does GM sell the Impala overseas under a different name?

Response:

> I was watchings the news about the suicide bomb in Tel-Avia today. > Tragic.  Anyway, I could have sworn I saw a white Impala as a Police > car as well as a civilian one.  Does GM sell the Impala overseas under > a different name?

   It was probably a Chevy Lumina (Holden Commodore).  That’s probably about the same size as the new Impala, but rear-drive. Not sold over here.

Response:

Ok…  It had the pointed front end like the 2000 and 2001 Impalas. Maybe the picture was fuzzy.  I was reading up on a brochure for the Impala.  I’m suggesting my mother get one. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was watchings the news about the suicide bomb in Tel-Avia today. > Tragic.  Anyway, I could have sworn I saw a white Impala as a Police > car as well as a civilian one.  Does GM sell the Impala overseas under > a different name? >   It was probably a Chevy Lumina (Holden Commodore).  That’s >probably about the same size as the new Impala, but rear-drive. >Not sold over here.

Response: