Sonoma Failed Smog – NOx

Question:

Just in the interest of helping anybody who has this same problem, here’s the GM fix so far.  I took it to big GM dealer early yesterday a.m..  Sat and waited for emissions guy to get in.  He took one look at previous test results and said, "Oh, you’re running 89 octane, aren’t you? (yes, I was)  "Run it out, run a full tank of Chevron 93 through it, bring it back to me when its almost empty. I will test it while you wait and I guarantee it will pass." He never even looked at the truck or tested it.  He told me, "I don’t have to look at it.  There’s nothing wrong with your truck."  He explained that — since ‘99 and later 2.2 do NOT have an EGR system — many are doomed to fail new, stricter CA NOx standards at slow speed IF you take the test on regular (89 octane) gas. Well, so at least the EGR controversy is settled.  It’ll take a while to run a full tank of 93 octane through it.  Then I’ll take the test again.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Just in the interest of helping anybody who has this same problem, >here’s the GM fix so far.  I took it to big GM dealer early yesterday >a.m..  Sat and waited for emissions guy to get in.  He took one look at >previous test results and said, "Oh, you’re running 89 octane, aren’t >you? (yes, I was)  "Run it out, run a full tank of Chevron 93 through >it, bring it back to me when its almost empty. I will test it while you >wait and I guarantee it will pass." >He never even looked at the truck or tested it.  He told me, "I don’t >have to look at it.  There’s nothing wrong with your truck."  He >explained that — since ‘99 and later 2.2 do NOT have an EGR system — >many are doomed to fail new, stricter CA NOx standards at slow speed IF >you take the test on regular (89 octane) gas. >Well, so at least the EGR controversy is settled.  It’ll take a while >to run a full tank of 93 octane through it.  Then I’ll take the test >again.

Most interesting. Please post back with the results when retested. "When a legislature undertakes to proscribe the exercise of a citizen’s constitutional rights it acts lawlessly and the citizen can take matters into his own hands and proceed on the basis that such a law is no law at all." – Justice William O. Douglas

Response:

My 99 Sonoma – 2.2L, 5-speed – just tanked on CA smog test.  Failed  the NOx measurement at 25 mph.  Max is 527, I measured 876.  Passed NOx at idle.  HC measure 0.0  (pass), CO measured 0.01 (pass).  Anybody got an idea of what I am looking at with this high NO  measurement?  Truck feels like its running fine.  No "Check Engine"  light ever.  New AC platinum plugs a few months ago.  This vehicle doesn’t even HAVE an EGR valve, which would be my first  suspect. Any advice appreciated.  Thanks….

Response:

when the NO is high it’s because the engine is running to lean and hot  and is breaking down the oxygen molicule which combines with nitrogin to make N2O. I’d have the garage do a diagnostic on the engine management system to see if any of the censors are out of range.they could be out, but not enough to trip the computer warning light.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 99 Sonoma – 2.2L, 5-speed – just tanked on CA smog test.  Failed >  the NOx measurement at 25 mph.  Max is 527, I measured 876.  Passed > NOx at idle.  HC measure 0.0 >  (pass), CO measured 0.01 (pass). >  Anybody got an idea of what I am looking at with this high NO >  measurement?  Truck feels like its running fine.  No "Check Engine" >  light ever.  New AC platinum plugs a few months ago. >  This vehicle doesn’t even HAVE an EGR valve, which would be my first >  suspect. > Any advice appreciated.  Thanks….

Response:

GMC Sonoma dashboard is heating up.

Question:

I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma  small pickup in which the radio controls faceplate and the climate control faceplate  of the dashboard is getting very hot. It is doing this 4 or 5 times a week. Anyone have any idea what this could be?  Thanks.

Response:

|I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma  small pickup in which the radio controls | faceplate and the climate control faceplate  of the dashboard is | getting very hot. It is doing this 4 or 5 times a week. Anyone have | any idea what this could be?  Thanks. Could the "auto" light system have the lights on?  My neighbor has this problem with the lighted controls on the steering wheel on his LeSabre.

Response:

Thanks James. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > |I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma  small pickup in which the radio controls > | faceplate and the climate control faceplate  of the dashboard is > | getting very hot. It is doing this 4 or 5 times a week. Anyone have > | any idea what this could be?  Thanks. > Could the "auto" light system have the lights on?  My neighbor has this problem > with the lighted controls on the steering wheel on his LeSabre.

Response:

1995 Chevy S10 P/U 2.2 Litre – Will Not Start

Question:

Hi, I am trying to help a friend who is low on cash to get his truck running again. I am a mechanical engineer but by no means an auto mechanic, so I told him there was a 1 in a 100 chance I could help. Anyway his truck died on him while driving on the interstate with no prior warning. This afternoon I went out to where the truck was parked and with a boost in place I asked him to crank the engine over.  As soon as the engine turned over, a small bang occurred and smoke appeared at the intake manifold.  I think this engine has throttle body fuel injection and this is where the back firing like bang emanated from. I then checked for spark by removing a plug and had him crank the engine one more time.  No back firing sound this time and there was spark. Prior to me arriving he had replaced the fuel filter, but this did not cure the problem.  The engine has 135,000 miles and my best uninformed guess is timing chain (or belt – not sure on this engine).  This might explain the back fire and certainly account for the engine not starting as it appears it has both gas and spark.  I am not sure the easiest way to rule this guess out and then proceed along some systematic path to arrive at the root cause. Any advice / suggestions would be much appreciated!  Many thanks. Craig

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I am trying to help a friend who is low on cash to get his truck > running again. I am a mechanical engineer but by no means an auto > mechanic, so I told him there was a 1 in a 100 chance I could help. > Anyway his truck died on him while driving on the interstate with no > prior warning. > This afternoon I went out to where the truck was parked and with a > boost in place I asked him to crank the engine over.  As soon as the > engine turned over, a small bang occurred and smoke appeared at the > intake manifold.  I think this engine has throttle body fuel injection > and this is where the back firing like bang emanated from. > I then checked for spark by removing a plug and had him crank the > engine one more time.  No back firing sound this time and there was > spark. > Prior to me arriving he had replaced the fuel filter, but this did not > cure the problem.  The engine has 135,000 miles and my best uninformed > guess is timing chain (or belt – not sure on this engine).  This might > explain the back fire and certainly account for the engine not > starting as it appears it has both gas and spark.  I am not sure the > easiest way to rule this guess out and then proceed along some > systematic path to arrive at the root cause. > Any advice / suggestions would be much appreciated!  Many thanks. > Craig

    That engine has Timing GEARS. We had one, a 1997 GMC Sonoma that had a bad gear. Back in 2000. I heard at the time it was a comment issue.     I hate to assume that is the issue your having, but it is one I would investigate. Especially given the mileage. If your friend is really serious about keeping that truck, he should get a factory service manual for it. The factory service manuals will have the diagnostic flow chats to help you diagnose the issue, as well as the proper repair instructions. Charles

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I am trying to help a friend who is low on cash to get his truck > running again. I am a mechanical engineer but by no means an auto > mechanic, so I told him there was a 1 in a 100 chance I could help. > Anyway his truck died on him while driving on the interstate with no > prior warning. > This afternoon I went out to where the truck was parked and with a > boost in place I asked him to crank the engine over.  As soon as the > engine turned over, a small bang occurred and smoke appeared at the > intake manifold.  I think this engine has throttle body fuel injection > and this is where the back firing like bang emanated from. > I then checked for spark by removing a plug and had him crank the > engine one more time.  No back firing sound this time and there was > spark. > Prior to me arriving he had replaced the fuel filter, but this did not > cure the problem.  The engine has 135,000 miles and my best uninformed > guess is timing chain (or belt – not sure on this engine).  This might > explain the back fire and certainly account for the engine not > starting as it appears it has both gas and spark.  I am not sure the > easiest way to rule this guess out and then proceed along some > systematic path to arrive at the root cause. > Any advice / suggestions would be much appreciated!  Many thanks. > Craig >     That engine has Timing GEARS. We had one, a 1997 GMC Sonoma that had a > bad gear. Back in 2000. I heard at the time it was a comment issue. >     I hate to assume that is the issue your having, but it is one I would > investigate. Especially given the mileage. If your friend is really serious > about keeping that truck, he should get a factory service manual for it. The > factory service manuals will have the diagnostic flow chats to help you > diagnose the issue, as well as the proper repair instructions. > Charles

Charles To check the timing chain/gear theory, will the valve cover have to be removed, or is there a quicker way? Thanks Craig

Response:

I f you are sure the injectors are pulsing and there is spark, do a compression test, this will tell if the gears let go, the valves may be bent at this point anyway.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi, > > I am trying to help a friend who is low on cash to get his truck > > running again. I am a mechanical engineer but by no means an auto > > mechanic, so I told him there was a 1 in a 100 chance I could help. > > Anyway his truck died on him while driving on the interstate with no > > prior warning. > > This afternoon I went out to where the truck was parked and with a > > boost in place I asked him to crank the engine over.  As soon as the > > engine turned over, a small bang occurred and smoke appeared at the > > intake manifold.  I think this engine has throttle body fuel injection > > and this is where the back firing like bang emanated from. > > I then checked for spark by removing a plug and had him crank the > > engine one more time.  No back firing sound this time and there was > > spark. > > Prior to me arriving he had replaced the fuel filter, but this did not > > cure the problem.  The engine has 135,000 miles and my best uninformed > > guess is timing chain (or belt – not sure on this engine).  This might > > explain the back fire and certainly account for the engine not > > starting as it appears it has both gas and spark.  I am not sure the > > easiest way to rule this guess out and then proceed along some > > systematic path to arrive at the root cause. > > Any advice / suggestions would be much appreciated!  Many thanks. > > Craig >     That engine has Timing GEARS. We had one, a 1997 GMC Sonoma that had a > bad gear. Back in 2000. I heard at the time it was a comment issue. >     I hate to assume that is the issue your having, but it is one I would > investigate. Especially given the mileage. If your friend is really serious > about keeping that truck, he should get a factory service manual for it. The > factory service manuals will have the diagnostic flow chats to help you > diagnose the issue, as well as the proper repair instructions. > Charles > Charles > To check the timing chain/gear theory, will the valve cover have to be > removed, or is there a quicker way? > Thanks > Craig

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Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi, > > I am trying to help a friend who is low on cash to get his truck > > running again. I am a mechanical engineer but by no means an auto > > mechanic, so I told him there was a 1 in a 100 chance I could help. > > Anyway his truck died on him while driving on the interstate with no > > prior warning. > > This afternoon I went out to where the truck was parked and with a > > boost in place I asked him to crank the engine over.  As soon as the > > engine turned over, a small bang occurred and smoke appeared at the > > intake manifold.  I think this engine has throttle body fuel injection > > and this is where the back firing like bang emanated from. > > I then checked for spark by removing a plug and had him crank the > > engine one more time.  No back firing sound this time and there was > > spark. > > Prior to me arriving he had replaced the fuel filter, but this did not > > cure the problem.  The engine has 135,000 miles and my best uninformed > > guess is timing chain (or belt – not sure on this engine).  This might > > explain the back fire and certainly account for the engine not > > starting as it appears it has both gas and spark.  I am not sure the > > easiest way to rule this guess out and then proceed along some > > systematic path to arrive at the root cause. > > Any advice / suggestions would be much appreciated!  Many thanks. > > Craig >     That engine has Timing GEARS. We had one, a 1997 GMC Sonoma that had a > bad gear. Back in 2000. I heard at the time it was a comment issue. >     I hate to assume that is the issue your having, but it is one I would > investigate. Especially given the mileage. If your friend is really serious > about keeping that truck, he should get a factory service manual for it. The > factory service manuals will have the diagnostic flow chats to help you > diagnose the issue, as well as the proper repair instructions. > Charles > Charles > To check the timing chain/gear theory, will the valve cover have to be > removed, or is there a quicker way? > Thanks > Craig

   Craig     I did not do that job my self. A associate of the business,  who at the time worked for a GM dealer, did it. He did it at home as a "side" job. We sent it out to someone who was experienced with it.     I haven’t ever had the chance to  work on a Rear Drive 2.2, since then. Most of the 94 and up S-trucks I see  are 4.3 trucks. Charles

Response:

Yes of course, a compression test!  Thanks for your help. Craig – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I f you are sure the injectors are pulsing and there is spark, do a > compression test, this will tell if the gears let go, the valves may be bent > at this point anyway. > > > Hi, > > > I am trying to help a friend who is low on cash to get his truck > > > running again. I am a mechanical engineer but by no means an auto > > > mechanic, so I told him there was a 1 in a 100 chance I could help. > > > Anyway his truck died on him while driving on the interstate with no > > > prior warning. > > > This afternoon I went out to where the truck was parked and with a > > > boost in place I asked him to crank the engine over.  As soon as the > > > engine turned over, a small bang occurred and smoke appeared at the > > > intake manifold.  I think this engine has throttle body fuel injection > > > and this is where the back firing like bang emanated from. > > > I then checked for spark by removing a plug and had him crank the > > > engine one more time.  No back firing sound this time and there was > > > spark. > > > Prior to me arriving he had replaced the fuel filter, but this did not > > > cure the problem.  The engine has 135,000 miles and my best uninformed > > > guess is timing chain (or belt – not sure on this engine).  This might > > > explain the back fire and certainly account for the engine not > > > starting as it appears it has both gas and spark.  I am not sure the > > > easiest way to rule this guess out and then proceed along some > > > systematic path to arrive at the root cause. > > > Any advice / suggestions would be much appreciated!  Many thanks. > > > Craig > >     That engine has Timing GEARS. We had one, a 1997 GMC Sonoma that had >  a > > bad gear. Back in 2000. I heard at the time it was a comment issue. > >     I hate to assume that is the issue your having, but it is one I >  would > > investigate. Especially given the mileage. If your friend is really >  serious > > about keeping that truck, he should get a factory service manual for it. >  The > > factory service manuals will have the diagnostic flow chats to help you > > diagnose the issue, as well as the proper repair instructions. > > Charles > Charles > To check the timing chain/gear theory, will the valve cover have to be > removed, or is there a quicker way? > Thanks > Craig > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Advise: 97 Suburban ABS Problems

Question:

Ever since new, my 97 GMC Suburban will  have the ABS system activate at low speeds without reason, and for a moment, you feel that you have no brakes. Years ago, while on warranty, dealer replaced the ABS "brain" etc. I have spoken to many other GM truck owners, and apparently this is a somewhat common problem.  No recall? Anyone have a comment on inappropriate activation of the ABS systems on GM vehicles of that era?

Response:

"RobertS975"  wrote > Ever since new, my 97 GMC Suburban will  have the ABS system activate at low > speeds without reason, and for a moment, you feel that you have no brakes. > Years ago, while on warranty, dealer replaced the ABS "brain" etc. > I have spoken to many other GM truck owners, and apparently this is a somewhat > common problem.  No recall? Anyone have a comment on inappropriate activation > of the ABS systems on GM vehicles of that era?

Probably no reason for a recall.  Here is the bulletin that addresses the problem.  Basically, dirty sensor mounting surfaces cause the signal to drop out at low speeds, which fools the ABS system into thinking that it is experiencing an ABS event when it’s not. Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface) #02-05-25-006A – (11/26/2002) Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface) 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada This bulletin is being revised to change model information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006 (Section 05 — Brakes). Condition Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set. Cause The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface. Correction Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.   1.. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.   2.. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.   3.. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.   4.. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV’s. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV’s.   5.. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV’s, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.   6.. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.   7.. Clean the speed sensor mounting surface on the hub to remove rust and corrosion.   Important   Make sure that the sensor sits flat on the hub. If the sensor flange is distorted, replace the sensor.   8.. Apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface prior to sensor installation.   9.. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.   10.. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.   11.. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV’s. Ian

Response:

Available options for Savana conversion chassis ?

Question:

Oh, I just wanted to add that while the van was only a few weeks old (1,800 miles on the odometer), I checked the gas mileage on a high speed drive (mostly 75+ miles per hour) from Los Angeles to Monterey, and it averaged 20.2 MPG over the 800 mile drive — I was very, very pleased as it was not even broken in, and is not the most, ahem, aerodynamic vehicle to be driving 80 MPH. I have not checked it since, but I believe that a 1500 series can average 20 MPG on the highway. Not bad for a vehicle that weighs 4,700 lbs empty and has a 2,500 lb payload.

Response:

>> I see conversions listed with and without the 7200 rating. >Yeah it depends a lot on how it was ordered. The lower rated ones should >not be used for towing because the brakes are not really able to handle >it. Mine is a 2500 set up for heavy use and has an 8600 rating. The >drawback with the heavy springs is that the ride is just a bit stiffer, >but it also handles the wind and winding roads better.

So the 7200 rating is more than beefier suspension to handle the extra weight.  It also has larger brakes to stop the extra weight ?  I have to say again – how does a customer learn of these details ?  No dealer or conversion rep I’ve spoken with has any knowledge of this. Frustating to someone trying to learn before buying. We would tow a 4000 lb trailer and its gear max.  Occasional (1 or 2 week trip, once a year perhaps) towing in mountains.  Live in flat Michigan otherwise.  I don’t care if I’m the first one up the mountain, so I don’t mind if the vehicle won’t pull it fast as long it’s not strained/stressed to the point of damage going slow.  Most of the vehicle’s use will be non-loaded driving.   We’ve pulled pop-up trailers with minivans (2500 lb with a 3.3L and a 4000 lb with towing pkg 3.8L) and were satisfied with that.  So would a 1500 5.4L with 3.42 rear (for better overall gas mileage) be ok (taking advantage of the tow/haul mode) ?  The 12/16 mpg of the 2500 with its 6.0L seems a big price to pay for such occasional benefit.  Dirtbeard, your 20 mpg would be welcomed. All’s we’re really after in a conversion is 4 captain’s chairs.  Just want buckets in the middle row.  GM doesn’t offer that anymore. Anyway to purchase a passenger van and have such seats installed ? That’s be a way to get heated side mirrors and rear defrost for example.   Upfitters aren’t interested in that due to liability concerns since the vehicle hasn’t been crash tested in that configuration. Any idea of the dealer cost for the chassis with YF1 RV package ? Steve

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>The 1500 passenger van lists a GVWR rating of 7200 lbs (option code >>>C5Z) as being available.  I believe the standard rating is 6200 > lbs. >>>Is this available for this conversion van ?  If so, what is changed > on >>>the van to obtain this higher rating – handling, suspension ? >>Conversions generally are rated higher than the base van, they need > the >>heavier suspension because of all the added weight of the conversion >>materials. I would also say that since you plan on towing with it you >>should start with a 2500 instead of the 1500. That way you can up the >>GVW and get a good transmission as well. >I see conversions listed with and without the 7200 rating. > Yeah it depends a lot on how it was ordered. The lower rated ones should > not be used for towing because the brakes are not really able to handle > it. Mine is a 2500 set up for heavy use and has an 8600 rating. The > drawback with the heavy springs is that the ride is just a bit stiffer, > but it also handles the wind and winding roads better. >This would be the heavy duty version of the Hydra-Matic (code MT1) ? > Yes, that is the 4L80-E trans. Much better for towing than the 4L60-E > and lasts a lot longer as well. The 60 has a nasty habit of breaking > internally when actually used as a truck transmission.

Hi, They both are very good transmissions — GM makes some of the best transmission in use. I believe that Rolls Royce uses, or did use, a GM transmission. The 4L60-E (M30/M31) is a very good transmission and is used in huge range of vehicles from Corvettes and Hummer H2s to the 2500 series Sierras. Some specs: Maximum Engine Torque: 360 lb-ft (M30) (As found in Corvette) 380 lb-ft (M32) Maximum Gearbox Torque: 670 lb-ft (M32) 610 lb-ft (M30) Converter Size: 245mm, 280mm, 298mm & 300mm (M30) 300mm (M32) (reference) (Diameter of torque converter turbine) Fluid Capacity (Approximate): Dry: 7.9L (8.4 qt) (with 245 mm converter) Dry: 10.8L (11.4 qt) (with 300 mm converter) Case Material: Die Cast Aluminum Assembly Site: Toledo, OH Romulus, MI Ramos, Mexico APPLICATIONS Chevrolet S-10 GMC Sonoma Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Trailblazer GMC Jimmy GMC Envoy Olds Bravada 1500 – 2500 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickup and Chassis Cab GMC Sierra Denali GMC Yukon XL Denali GMC Yukon Denali Chevrolet Tahoe GMC Yukon Cadillac Escalade Cadillac EXT Chevrolet Avalanche Chevrolet Suburban GMC Yukon XL Chevrolet Express GMC Savana Chevrolet Astro GMC Safari Chevrolet Corvette Chevrolet SSR HUMMER 2 The 4L80-E (MT1) is a stronger transmission, generally is used in the 2500 and 3500 series, but shifts more like a truck transmission. Some specs: Maximum Engine Torque: 440 lb-ft (MT1) 460 lb-ft (MN8) Maximum Gearbox Torque: 885 lb-ft Converter Size: 310mm (reference) (Diameter of torque converter turbine) Fluid Capacity (Approximate): Bottom Pan Removal: 4.0L – 6.0L (4.2 qt – 6.3 qt) Case Material: Die Cast Aluminum Assembly Site: Ypsilanti, MI APPLICATIONS Chevrolet Avalanche (MN8) 2500 HD & 3500 GMC Sierra and Chevrolet Silverado Chevrolet Suburban and GMC Yukon XL (MT1/MN8) Chevrolet Express and GMC Savana (MT1) I think the MT1 is a better choice for serious towing, but the M30 shifts more smoothly (it gets used in Cadillacs as well). If one has noticed more M30s needing service, it could be due in part to the vastly greater number of them in use as well as the more rugged nature of the MT1. Last year I bought a new 2003 1500 cargo van with the 4.3L, M30, rack and pinion steering (standard), and 7,200 lb GVW (the 7,200 GVW option was about $50 for the 1,500). For a cargo van (lighter than a conversion), it leaves about a 2,500 lb payload, which is plenty for me. If one goes to a 2500 series, it has a 2,736 lb payload, MT1 and recirculating ball steering. If you are doing serious towing, than I would think about the 2500 series — the price is very, very close between the two series. However, if you are doing a good deal of "normal driving," I would consider seriously the 7,200 lb GVW 1500. It shifts "like a Cadillac,’ and steers like it has rack and pinion (well, it does have rack and pinion). The ride also is more pleasant and is less likely to result in squeaks and rattles one gets from driving around in an overly stiffly sprung truck while unloaded/empty. The 2500’s typically come with a 3.73 or 4.10 rear axle while the 1500’s come with a 3.42 or a 3.73. Again, here the trade off will be towing/hauling ability versus gas mileage and engine speed/wear. As you go from the 1500 to the 3500 series, they just get heavier duty and more "truck-like," and there are very real costs and benefits to becoming more truck-like. I only have had my Savana for about 14 months now, but it is a treat to drive. As of 2003, all models all have much larger four wheel disc ABS brakes that work great, and a tow/haul switch on the dash that reprograms the transmission into a later shifting, higher revving mode that makes it feel like you dropped the rear axle ratio by a half click. The tow/haul mode ought to also take a good deal of torque load off the M30 when hauling or towing, and lead to greater longevity. Either way you go, I don’t think you will regret a new Savana/Express. The 2003 and 2004 models are very good vehicles. You might want to read the marketing blurbs: http://www.gmfleet.com/us/about/news/articles/030202d.html http://media.gm.com:8221/division/2003_prodinfo/03_gmc/03_savana/inde… In 2003, they went through a major resdesign — the 2004’s are pretty much the same vehicle.

Response:

I’m interested in a GMC 1500 Savana Conversion, 5300 engine, 3.42 rear axle ratio.  We may be towing a 4000 trailer. There are some options listed on gmc’s web site for the conversion van that I’d like clarification on.  These are found on the www.gmc.com web site under Savana Conversion Van at the bottom of the page, then clicking on "see all features & options or get the specifications". "Features and options – interior features" lists Defogger, rear-window, electric as being an option.  Can this be obtained along with the heated outside side mirrors (which come standard) ?  My conversion rep says no, something about the electrical system cannot supply enough current for both. Can the external transmission oil cooler (option code V-14) be obtained with this engine ? Can the locking rear heavy duty differential (option code G80) be obtained ? The 1500 passenger van lists a GVWR rating of 7200 lbs (option code C5Z) as being available.  I believe the standard rating is 6200 lbs. Is this available for this conversion van ?  If so, what is changed on the van to obtain this higher rating – handling, suspension ? Option Codes lists 9R5 as Suspension, rear multi-leaf.  What is this ? Two packages are listed, 1SC and 1SD.  What is the difference ? What is the YF1 RV Package ? Thanks, Steve

Response:

Inline

> I’m interested in a GMC 1500 Savana Conversion, 5300 engine, 3.42 rear > axle ratio.  We may be towing a 4000 trailer. There are some options > listed on gmc’s web site for the conversion van that I’d like > clarification on.  These are found on the www.gmc.com web site under > Savana Conversion Van at the bottom of the page, then clicking on "see > all features & options or get the specifications". > "Features and options – interior features" lists Defogger, > rear-window, electric as being an option.  Can this be obtained along > with the heated outside side mirrors (which come standard) ?  My > conversion rep says no, something about the electrical system cannot > supply enough current for both.

Nope. I was told it was because of the upfitters using more juice in the interior and that most of the time the rear window isn’t used due to curtains. (I can tell you that I have the curtains and heavy tint on the rear windows, you can see through them but only during a bright day) > Can the external transmission oil cooler (option code V-14) be > obtained with this engine ?

Should be available, I know mine has the factory oil and trans coolers,plus and aux. cooler for the trans. > Can the locking rear heavy duty differential (option code G80) be > obtained ?

It can be BUT it is known for grenading itself, so I would suggest not getting it. But it’s your choice. > The 1500 passenger van lists a GVWR rating of 7200 lbs (option code > C5Z) as being available.  I believe the standard rating is 6200 lbs. > Is this available for this conversion van ?  If so, what is changed on > the van to obtain this higher rating – handling, suspension ?

Conversions generally are rated higher than the base van, they need the heavier suspension because of all the added weight of the conversion materials. I would also say that since you plan on towing with it you should start with a 2500 instead of the 1500. That way you can up the GVW and get a good transmission as well. > Option Codes lists 9R5 as Suspension, rear multi-leaf.  What is this ?

Just multi-leaf rear springs. Some are built with coil springs others are standard leaf springs. > Two packages are listed, 1SC and 1SD.  What is the difference ?

1SD has more options, lighted visor mirrors,  leather steering wheel, aluminum rims, remote entry. BUT a lot of those are also available as options from the upfitter as well. > What is the YF1 RV Package ?

A few extras due to it being an RV instead of a standard van. It includes a power block in the back and a seperate fuse panel and other items get relocated so the upfitter has power and room to work. > Thanks, > Steve

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Response:

>> "Features and options – interior features" lists Defogger, > rear-window, electric as being an option.  Can this be obtained along > with the heated outside side mirrors (which come standard) ?  My > conversion rep says no, something about the electrical system cannot > supply enough current for both. >Nope. I was told it was because of the upfitters using more juice in the >interior and that most of the time the rear window isn’t used due to >curtains. (I can tell you that I have the curtains and heavy tint on the >rear windows, you can see through them but only during a bright day)

I currently drive a mini-van with sun tinted rear window and find its defroster useful.  No plans for curtains on this van’s windows.  So no way to get both heated side mirrors and read window ?  With a heavy duty alternator, I’d think there’d be enough supply to power the few extra lights the conversion has. > Can the external transmission oil cooler (option code V-14) be > obtained with this engine ? >Should be available, I know mine has the factory oil and trans >coolers,plus and aux. cooler for the trans.

Apparently only available with 6 L engine (and standard on it). http://www.gmc.com/gmcjsp/savana/specs_mechanical.jsp?vehicle=savanac… > Can the locking rear heavy duty differential (option code G80) be > obtained ? >It can be BUT it is known for grenading itself, so I would suggest not >getting it. But it’s your choice.

How does one become aware of such issues – hang out in the newsgroups ?  Is there info describing such things somewhere ? > The 1500 passenger van lists a GVWR rating of 7200 lbs (option code > C5Z) as being available.  I believe the standard rating is 6200 lbs. > Is this available for this conversion van ?  If so, what is changed on > the van to obtain this higher rating – handling, suspension ? >Conversions generally are rated higher than the base van, they need the >heavier suspension because of all the added weight of the conversion >materials. I would also say that since you plan on towing with it you >should start with a 2500 instead of the 1500. That way you can up the >GVW and get a good transmission as well.

I see conversions listed with and without the 7200 rating. This would be the heavy duty version of the Hydra-Matic (code MT1) ? > Option Codes lists 9R5 as Suspension, rear multi-leaf.  What is this ? >Just multi-leaf rear springs. Some are built with coil springs others >are standard leaf springs.

Multi-leaf rear springs are standard.  Would coil be desirable if towing ? What’s the Trailering Special Equipment package with weight ditributing trailing hitch platform ?  Is it a platform or an actual hitch ?  Better to get an after-market hitch ? Steve

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> "Features and options – interior features" lists Defogger, >> rear-window, electric as being an option.  Can this be obtained along >> with the heated outside side mirrors (which come standard) ?  My >> conversion rep says no, something about the electrical system cannot >> supply enough current for both. >Nope. I was told it was because of the upfitters using more juice in the >interior and that most of the time the rear window isn’t used due to >curtains. (I can tell you that I have the curtains and heavy tint on the >rear windows, you can see through them but only during a bright day) > I currently drive a mini-van with sun tinted rear window and find its > defroster useful.  No plans for curtains on this van’s windows.  So no > way to get both heated side mirrors and read window ?  With a heavy > duty alternator, I’d think there’d be enough supply to power the few > extra lights the conversion has.

Yeah you would think so but they want to make sure I guess. On my van if you add up all the lights and TV and VDP and the stereo plus the valance lights and reading and center lights the power couch your looking at about 40 amps just in add-ons. I would think it would be OK but they may be just making sure. >> Can the external transmission oil cooler (option code V-14) be >> obtained with this engine ? >Should be available, I know mine has the factory oil and trans >coolers,plus and aux. cooler for the trans. > Apparently only available with 6 L engine (and standard on it).

http://www.gmc.com/gmcjsp/savana/specs_mechanical.jsp?vehicle=savanac… Then have a dealer add it before you take delivery, Believe me you need more cooling than just the standard cooler if your towing. Heat is what kills a trans faster than anything else. >> Can the locking rear heavy duty differential (option code G80) be >> obtained ? >It can be BUT it is known for grenading itself, so I would suggest not >getting it. But it’s your choice. > How does one become aware of such issues – hang out in the newsgroups > ?  Is there info describing such things somewhere ?

Well known if you do any service work on GM vehicles, also if you want more opinions about it just post a message asking about the G80 optional diff in alt.trucks.chevy. They just don’t seem to hold up in a vehicle that actually gets used. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> The 1500 passenger van lists a GVWR rating of 7200 lbs (option code >> C5Z) as being available.  I believe the standard rating is 6200 lbs. >> Is this available for this conversion van ?  If so, what is changed on >> the van to obtain this higher rating – handling, suspension ? >Conversions generally are rated higher than the base van, they need the >heavier suspension because of all the added weight of the conversion >materials. I would also say that since you plan on towing with it you >should start with a 2500 instead of the 1500. That way you can up the >GVW and get a good transmission as well. > I see conversions listed with and without the 7200 rating.

Yeah it depends a lot on how it was ordered. The lower rated ones should not be used for towing because the brakes are not really able to handle it. Mine is a 2500 set up for heavy use and has an 8600 rating. The drawback with the heavy springs is that the ride is just a bit stiffer, but it also handles the wind and winding roads better. > This would be the heavy duty version of the Hydra-Matic (code MT1) ?

Yes, that is the 4L80-E trans. Much better for towing than the 4L60-E and lasts a lot longer as well. The 60 has a nasty habit of breaking internally when actually used as a truck transmission. >> Option Codes lists 9R5 as Suspension, rear multi-leaf.  What is this ? >Just multi-leaf rear springs. Some are built with coil springs others >are standard leaf springs. > Multi-leaf rear springs are standard.  Would coil be desirable if > towing ?

Not really much difference, about the only thing a coil has an advantage on is if a spring were to break. On a leaf spring the leaves also align the axle and if (only seen it once on an abused truck) the top leaf were to break the axle will shift. On a coil system the axle is located with control arms. Ride wise they are about the same. > What’s the Trailering Special Equipment package with weight > ditributing trailing hitch platform ?  Is it a platform or an actual > hitch ?  Better to get an after-market hitch ?

It is a regular receiver hitch unit bolted to the frame, they used to be Reese but I’m not sure if they still are. > Steve

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Response:

GMC 1997 Help with ignition trouble

Question:

I have a 1997 Sonoma with roughly 50,000 miles one it.  The problem is that the truck is having a hard tine starting.  When the key is turned to the "on" position normally the truck (as with most models) will go through a self check meaning all the dash lights will light up, the fuel pump kicks on,  and so forth.  Well every now and then that self check doesn’t come on at all.  The battery is still good because if I were to turn the key to the "start" postilion the engine will turn over with no problem however with no fuel pump or any other electronics running the truck just won’t start.  Any suggestions? 2003 History A 50,000 mile tune up and overhall was completed over the summer with no problems.   In the middle of fall a new battery was purchased that had 625 CCAs which is 100 more then the previous.  A few weeks after is when all this began.  The problem seems to happen more often when the Temperature is between 40-50, but not limited to that range.

Response:

pull the battery cables and scrape them clean of oxides inside the ends. Clean the posts well also. That will probably fix the problem. John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1997 Sonoma with roughly 50,000 miles one it.  The problem is > that the truck is having a hard tine starting.  When the key is turned > to the "on" position normally the truck (as with most models) will go > through a self check meaning all the dash lights will light up, the > fuel pump kicks on,  and so forth.  Well every now and then that self > check doesn’t come on at all.  The battery is still good because if I > were to turn the key to the "start" postilion the engine will turn > over with no problem however with no fuel pump or any other > electronics running the truck just won’t start.  Any suggestions? > 2003 History > A 50,000 mile tune up and overhall was completed over the summer with > no problems.   In the middle of fall a new battery was purchased that > had 625 CCAs which is 100 more then the previous.  A few weeks after > is when all this began.  The problem seems to happen more often when > the Temperature is between 40-50, but not limited to that range.

Response:

Sienna Help

Question:

Hi All, I am in the Marine Corps stationed in SanDiego, CA. and we are getting ready to purchase a Minivan and are not sure what is a good buy for the money right now.  I know Toyota Sienna’s are good, but they are also a bit pricy. How do the other minivans compare or should we mainly consider the Toy?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Want to get one with 50,000 or less miles. Thanks for any help provided… John

Response:

We are very happy with our 2002 Sienna, purchased new but now with almost 40k miles on it. They are pricey, but my experience with other Toyotas has been that they hold their value and live a long time. I always advise that when buying a Toyota to be sure you get a color you like because you’re going to have it a long time. I actually like the styling of the Honda Odyssey’s better and I think you wouldn’t go wrong with a Honda either. The main thing to look out for with used Siennas is that the maintenance has been kept up. The engine seems to be more dependent on regular oil changes using a high-quality oil. So if somebody before you has let it go a little, it might not be good.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All, > I am in the Marine Corps stationed in SanDiego, CA. and we are getting ready > to purchase a Minivan and are not sure what is a good buy for the money > right now.  I know Toyota Sienna’s are good, but they are also a bit pricy. > How do the other minivans compare or should we mainly consider the Toy? Any > help would be greatly appreciated.  Want to get one with 50,000 or less > miles. > Thanks for any help provided… > John

Response:

Hey, Marine.. BUY AMERICAN! — 2002 GMC Sonoma ZQ8 SLS Step-Side Extended Cab – 4.3L Vortec / 4L60E http://www.sounddomain.com/id/sl4ck3r Is sex dirty? Only if it’s done right.  -Woody Allen

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All, > I am in the Marine Corps stationed in SanDiego, CA. and we are getting ready > to purchase a Minivan and are not sure what is a good buy for the money > right now.  I know Toyota Sienna’s are good, but they are also a bit pricy. > How do the other minivans compare or should we mainly consider the Toy? Any > help would be greatly appreciated.  Want to get one with 50,000 or less > miles. > Thanks for any help provided… > John

Response:

1998 GMC Jimmy wiring harness connector?

Question:

Hello all, I am upgrading the radio and would like to know if  anyone please tell me what type of connector is in the back of the OEM radio. I have found 2 harness adapters, one that is 21 pin and one is 32 pin. Also do I need an antenna adapter? Thanks, Dave-

Response:

Your best bet is to post in rec.audio.car for the harness, as mine is a 2002 and won’t be the same. You WILL need a mounting bracket and an attenna adaptor. — 2002 GMC Sonoma ZQ8 SLS Step-Side Extended Cab – 4.3L Vortec / 4L60E Is sex dirty? Only if it’s done right.  -Woody Allen

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all, > I am upgrading the radio and would like to know if  anyone please tell me > what type of connector is in the back of the OEM radio. > I have found 2 harness adapters, one that is 21 pin and one is 32 pin. > Also do I need an antenna adapter? > Thanks, > Dave-

Response:

98 jimmy no heat feet

Question:

The heater won’t direct the heat down to the floor. Is there a fuse on the mode motor? If so where is it? thanx

Response:

I think that the air control actuators to select the outlets on this vehicle are vacuum-powered, even on the automatic A/C system.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The heater won’t direct the heat down to the floor. > Is there a fuse on the mode motor? If so where is it? > thanx

Response:

This just happened to me too. Had my other car in for a repair and as I was leaving, asked the mechanic if the "air door’ on the heater was electrically actuated or vacuum? He said it was vacuum and usually when that happened, it was a broken vacuum line running up to a vacumm accumulator ball mounted on the underside of the hood, driver’s side. He walked me out to my Sonoma, we raided the hood and sure enough, the vacuum hose was broken at the black plastic ball on the under side of the hood. He replaced the short hose and now everything works great. Hope this helps…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think that the air control actuators to select the outlets on this vehicle > are vacuum-powered, even on the automatic A/C system.. > — > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > The heater won’t direct the heat down to the floor. > Is there a fuse on the mode motor? If so where is it? > thanx

Response:

Poor Gas mileage 2003 Jimmy with 4.3 liter Vortec

Question:

Sent some stuff to you but it bounced, got another address?? Stuuder – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > That is cool stuff.  I like to see more of that truck.  Are you display that > truck anywhere? > Paul >Hey Mike, >Commute 7 miles each way??? Have I got a deal for you, how ’bout my 86 > Mazda electric >PU, I built it to do 35-40 miles between charges. Top speed 80 MPH.Gorget > about the >gas.!!! Reason for selling, interests changed, been there done that , > gimme another >project.:-) >http://www.geocities.com/stuuder/STUUDERS_STUDES.html?1009727899790 >Ian >>I’ll agree with everyone here, the truck isn’t a fuel miser by any >>means.  I have a 94 4×4 4-door Jimmy, 4.3L automatic and a 3.42 rear >>axle.  With the 20 gallon tank, with my normal driving, I’m starting >>to think about getting gas at 220 miles or so, and that runs the tank >>fairly empty.  I’ve gotten over 15 MPG on my last 3 tanks, and it’s >>been pretty cold here.  I’ve gotten up to 23 MPG on the highway in the >>summer, on several occasions.  My commute is 7 miles each way, with >>2/3 of it at 45-60, depending on the type of people in front of me and >>the rest would be considered city driving. >>>The EPA rating is 23 mpg on the highway for 2WD automatic, or 19 mpg for > 4WD >>>automatic. Your consumption works out to about 12.8 mpg (US). >>>First off, how did you measure the consumption? Best way is to fill tank >>>until the pump shuts off, reset trip odometer, drive, and then refill > tank >>>and calculate from the mileage and the fuel added. >>>Cold temperatures will certainly reduce the gas mileage, and some > engines >>>tend to have worse fuel economy at low mileage. Your mileage still seems > a >>>bit low, but maybe not unreasonable..

Response:

Hey Mike, Commute 7 miles each way??? Have I got a deal for you, how ’bout my 86 Mazda electric PU, I built it to do 35-40 miles between charges. Top speed 80 MPH.Gorget about the gas.!!! Reason for selling, interests changed, been there done that , gimme another project.:-) http://www.geocities.com/stuuder/STUUDERS_STUDES.html?1009727899790 Ian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ll agree with everyone here, the truck isn’t a fuel miser by any > means.  I have a 94 4×4 4-door Jimmy, 4.3L automatic and a 3.42 rear > axle.  With the 20 gallon tank, with my normal driving, I’m starting > to think about getting gas at 220 miles or so, and that runs the tank > fairly empty.  I’ve gotten over 15 MPG on my last 3 tanks, and it’s > been pretty cold here.  I’ve gotten up to 23 MPG on the highway in the > summer, on several occasions.  My commute is 7 miles each way, with > 2/3 of it at 45-60, depending on the type of people in front of me and > the rest would be considered city driving. >The EPA rating is 23 mpg on the highway for 2WD automatic, or 19 mpg for 4WD >automatic. Your consumption works out to about 12.8 mpg (US). >First off, how did you measure the consumption? Best way is to fill tank >until the pump shuts off, reset trip odometer, drive, and then refill tank >and calculate from the mileage and the fuel added. >Cold temperatures will certainly reduce the gas mileage, and some engines >tend to have worse fuel economy at low mileage. Your mileage still seems a >bit low, but maybe not unreasonable..

Response:

That is cool stuff.  I like to see more of that truck.  Are you display that truck anywhere? Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Mike, > Commute 7 miles each way??? Have I got a deal for you, how ’bout my 86 Mazda electric > PU, I built it to do 35-40 miles between charges. Top speed 80 MPH.Gorget about the > gas.!!! Reason for selling, interests changed, been there done that , gimme another > project.:-) > http://www.geocities.com/stuuder/STUUDERS_STUDES.html?1009727899790 > Ian > I’ll agree with everyone here, the truck isn’t a fuel miser by any > means.  I have a 94 4×4 4-door Jimmy, 4.3L automatic and a 3.42 rear > axle.  With the 20 gallon tank, with my normal driving, I’m starting > to think about getting gas at 220 miles or so, and that runs the tank > fairly empty.  I’ve gotten over 15 MPG on my last 3 tanks, and it’s > been pretty cold here.  I’ve gotten up to 23 MPG on the highway in the > summer, on several occasions.  My commute is 7 miles each way, with > 2/3 of it at 45-60, depending on the type of people in front of me and > the rest would be considered city driving. >>The EPA rating is 23 mpg on the highway for 2WD automatic, or 19 mpg for 4WD >>automatic. Your consumption works out to about 12.8 mpg (US). >>First off, how did you measure the consumption? Best way is to fill tank >>until the pump shuts off, reset trip odometer, drive, and then refill tank >>and calculate from the mileage and the fuel added. >>Cold temperatures will certainly reduce the gas mileage, and some engines >>tend to have worse fuel economy at low mileage. Your mileage still seems a >>bit low, but maybe not unreasonable..

Response:

I’ll agree with everyone here, the truck isn’t a fuel miser by any means.  I have a 94 4×4 4-door Jimmy, 4.3L automatic and a 3.42 rear axle.  With the 20 gallon tank, with my normal driving, I’m starting to think about getting gas at 220 miles or so, and that runs the tank fairly empty.  I’ve gotten over 15 MPG on my last 3 tanks, and it’s been pretty cold here.  I’ve gotten up to 23 MPG on the highway in the summer, on several occasions.  My commute is 7 miles each way, with 2/3 of it at 45-60, depending on the type of people in front of me and the rest would be considered city driving. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >The EPA rating is 23 mpg on the highway for 2WD automatic, or 19 mpg for 4WD >automatic. Your consumption works out to about 12.8 mpg (US). >First off, how did you measure the consumption? Best way is to fill tank >until the pump shuts off, reset trip odometer, drive, and then refill tank >and calculate from the mileage and the fuel added. >Cold temperatures will certainly reduce the gas mileage, and some engines >tend to have worse fuel economy at low mileage. Your mileage still seems a >bit low, but maybe not unreasonable..

Response:

Bob,     It depends on how you are coming up with this number. I have a 1999 Jimmy with the 4.3L engine. I also have a trip computer aboard. My average highway/city driving is about 18.5mpg (60% of my commute to work is highway). If I set the reset trip computer before I leave for vacation, I get a number of about 21mpg/highway (This would be at a maximum of 65-70 mph.). I notice, that when I exceed 70 miles per hour, the fuel economy drops drastically.     I have also performed a city driving test. In that test, I found that fuel consumption was about, 16.5 miles to the gallon.     In short, never trust a salesperson. They will say what you want to hear.     You could also increase your highway mileage by using the cruise-control, if your truck has it. Most drivers can’t maintain an even speed, on a long trip. I include myself in that statement. It’s because driver’s tend to pass vehicles to make time.     Do this for one week:  1.) Fuel your truck to the full mark. (record the odometer)  2.) Wake-up early, so you have no rush to get to work.  3.) When you drive the truck to work, use moderate acceleration from a stop, and don’t exceed the speed limit. (Meaning, ..don’t try to pass anyone). With any luck, you will have time to pick-up breakfast or a coffee, by the time you get to work.  4.) At the end of the week, fuel-up the truck, and record the miles/Km.  5.) You might find that this truck can come close to the E.P.A. posted consumption rates.     My Jimmy is a 4 door 4wd, and I can get close to the posted MPG, when I’m easy on the accelerator.     In the summer, with the a/c on, I get about 17 mpg total. The a/c will take away mpg, Big-time. GMdude

Response:

Most Blazers get at best on sticker 16 to 20 in 4 door and the 2 doors get a bit better so that dosent sound to far off with the cold weather —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

The EPA rating is 23 mpg on the highway for 2WD automatic, or 19 mpg for 4WD automatic. Your consumption works out to about 12.8 mpg (US). First off, how did you measure the consumption? Best way is to fill tank until the pump shuts off, reset trip odometer, drive, and then refill tank and calculate from the mileage and the fuel added. Cold temperatures will certainly reduce the gas mileage, and some engines tend to have worse fuel economy at low mileage. Your mileage still seems a bit low, but maybe not unreasonable.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is it normal for a 2003 Jimmy  with 5000 miles on it to burn 22 liters of > gas to go 120 kms on the highway? I believe this works out to about 15 miles > per Us gallon. > I questioned GM Canada and was told that I had to wait until there was 5000 > kms (3000 miles) before the dealer could do a fuel consumption test. I have > had the vehicle back to the dealer twice and all I am told is that there are > no stored computer codes, it passes diagnostics and the are no available > software updates. > The sticker in the window when I bought the truck stated "25 miles per > gallon highway" (in Canada I think the English gallon is used on the > sticker, which is about 1.1/4 US gallons). The salesperson said that because > I wasn’t getting the 3.72 rear end and a two door was lighter than a four > door I should expect better than this. > I got a different story a week after I bought the truck and questioned him > on the gas mileage. I was then told not to expect more than 20 miles per > gallon for our climate. > I was wondering if in fact this truck does have the 3.72 rear end. Is there > anyway I can tell this , be it from the VIN or a sticker somewhere inside ? > Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response:

IT PROBABLY IS MY 02 SUBURBAN 5.3 GETS 13 MPG/18MPG

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is it normal for a 2003 Jimmy  with 5000 miles on it to burn 22 liters of > gas to go 120 kms on the highway? I believe this works out to about 15 miles > per Us gallon. > I questioned GM Canada and was told that I had to wait until there was 5000 > kms (3000 miles) before the dealer could do a fuel consumption test. I have > had the vehicle back to the dealer twice and all I am told is that there are > no stored computer codes, it passes diagnostics and the are no available > software updates. > The sticker in the window when I bought the truck stated "25 miles per > gallon highway" (in Canada I think the English gallon is used on the > sticker, which is about 1.1/4 US gallons). The salesperson said that because > I wasn’t getting the 3.72 rear end and a two door was lighter than a four > door I should expect better than this. > I got a different story a week after I bought the truck and questioned him > on the gas mileage. I was then told not to expect more than 20 miles per > gallon for our climate. > I was wondering if in fact this truck does have the 3.72 rear end. Is there > anyway I can tell this , be it from the VIN or a sticker somewhere inside ? > Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response:

My boys ‘99 Jimmy with the 4.3 gets AVG 16-18 MPG according to the onboard computer, on long (500 miles)trips he gets 23-25 MPG. They never have been a great gas mileage engine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is it normal for a 2003 Jimmy  with 5000 miles on it to burn 22 liters of > gas to go 120 kms on the highway? I believe this works out to about 15 miles > per Us gallon. > I questioned GM Canada and was told that I had to wait until there was 5000 > kms (3000 miles) before the dealer could do a fuel consumption test. I have > had the vehicle back to the dealer twice and all I am told is that there are > no stored computer codes, it passes diagnostics and the are no available > software updates. > The sticker in the window when I bought the truck stated "25 miles per > gallon highway" (in Canada I think the English gallon is used on the > sticker, which is about 1.1/4 US gallons). The salesperson said that because > I wasn’t getting the 3.72 rear end and a two door was lighter than a four > door I should expect better than this. > I got a different story a week after I bought the truck and questioned him > on the gas mileage. I was then told not to expect more than 20 miles per > gallon for our climate. > I was wondering if in fact this truck does have the 3.72 rear end. Is there > anyway I can tell this , be it from the VIN or a sticker somewhere inside ? > Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response:

15 sounds right, I know I can kill a tank a week with my Sonoma with the 4.3. Whenever somebody comments, I just say, "It’s a good sized engine with the aerodynamics of a 4000 pound flying bathtub". — Is sex dirty? Only if it’s done right.  -Woody Allen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > | Is it normal for a 2003 Jimmy  with 5000 miles on it to burn 22 liters of > | gas to go 120 kms on the highway? I believe this works out to about 15 > miles > | per Us gallon. > | > | I questioned GM Canada and was told that I had to wait until there was > 5000 > | kms (3000 miles) before the dealer could do a fuel consumption test. I > have > | had the vehicle back to the dealer twice and all I am told is that there > are > | no stored computer codes, it passes diagnostics and the are no available > | software updates. > | > | The sticker in the window when I bought the truck stated "25 miles per > | gallon highway" (in Canada I think the English gallon is used on the > | sticker, which is about 1.1/4 US gallons). The salesperson said that > because > | I wasn’t getting the 3.72 rear end and a two door was lighter than a four > | door I should expect better than this. > | > | I got a different story a week after I bought the truck and questioned him > | on the gas mileage. I was then told not to expect more than 20 miles per > | gallon for our climate. > | > | I was wondering if in fact this truck does have the 3.72 rear end. Is > there > | anyway I can tell this , be it from the VIN or a sticker somewhere inside > ? > | > | Any help would be greatly appreciated. > | > | > Keep in mind that gas mileage can be