Posts tagged: GMC Safari

Safari wiper blade removal

Question:

I am looking for information on how to remove the wiper blade assembly on a 1997 GMC Safari. I have searched Google to no avail. Unfortunately I purchased this van used, so I have no user’s manual.  I’ve fiddled with the thing for 30 minutes, but the trick eludes me. (I’m talking about the entire wiper blade, not just the insert). Thanks! Robert

Response:

I’ll take a wild guess here. In the center of the arm where it piviots on the shaft of the main arm there may be a spring clip on the wiper blade. Lift up on the clip and pull out on the blade and it should slide off the shaft. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE The 1/4 million mile car.

Response:

It took a bit of fiddling, but that did the trick.  Thanks! Robert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ll take a wild guess here. In the center of the arm where it piviots > on the shaft of the main arm there may be a spring clip on the wiper > blade. Lift up on the clip and pull out on the blade and it should slide > off the shaft. > Harryface       > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > The 1/4 million mile car.

Response:

Convert R12 to R134a?

Question:

Barry, If you take it to a dealer they will use R-12, They won’t do a conversion for liability reasons. If you want to do it yourself then you need to replace the compressor,accumulator, and all the O-rings in the system (old ones are not compatible with 134A), you will also need the conversion fittings for the high and low side connections. You should also flush the system to eliminate as much old oil as possible. Then evacuate the system to check for leaks, then recharge with 134A. You will drop about 4% cooling ability pound for pound against R-12 in a conversion. Not a big problem in a pickup but it can be a big deal in a Blazer or Van with the larger greenhouse area. One last Item, make sure you put the conversion sticker on over the original R-12 tag. Steve W.

1989 GMC Safari with front and rear A/C is low on freon. Last charge lasted about 2 years. There is some oil leakage around the compressor. I expect that I will replace the compressor and accumulator. What is GM doing for A/C repairs on these vehicles? Are they converting to 134a or repairing as R12? What components are being replaced for conversions? Thanks! Barry

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Response:

I’m in favor of the R134A conversion, no great loss of cooling performance. The high cost of R 12 means if your keeping the car, the conversion will pay for itself. Use Ester based oil ! PAG oil is for new installations (changing everything) or cars factory outfitted with R 134A. PAG is a superior lubricant, but not compatible with R 12 oil, or Ester based oil. Ester based oil mixes with R12 oil, and is the choice for conversions. I’ve had my conversions for several years, know many people with similar conversions, no problems. Change orifice tube, the old ones plug up, prior to conversion for maximum performance. Nice thing about conversion is, use a thermometer, and high side guage to know when to top off. Cheap top offs offset loss of performance. I run mine at a low pressure to keep strain off old parts. The dehumidifying / defrosting performance is what matters to me, more so than maximum cooling.

Response:

1989 GMC Safari with front and rear A/C is low on freon. Last charge lasted about 2 years. There is some oil leakage around the compressor. I expect that I will replace the compressor and accumulator. What is GM doing for A/C repairs on these vehicles? Are they converting to 134a or repairing as R12? What components are being replaced for conversions? Thanks! Barry I had my ‘87 Toyota 4X4 converted when the evaporator had a leak. I replaced the evaporator coil and the expansion valve. Also the pressure switch when I had the dash tore out. My mechanic blew out the system, (did Not flush it) and used ester oil with R-134. He used adaptors to pull a vacuum on the system and to charge it. It has been working for two years now without any problems. He claims that if you do not flush the system you do not have to change hoses and O rings along with the condenser and dryer. (The old oil residue protects them according to him) If and when the compressor goes, I will change everything out. The parts store says it is mandatory to change the Condenser coil and dryer for the compressor to be covered under their warranty. Jarhead

Response:

For those interested in staying with R-12, I purchased many 12oz. cans when it was available. Since then I have gotten rid of my R-12 cars and now use R-134a. If you are interested in purchasing some or all of the R-12 e-mail me. Larry

Response:

The main reason to flush the entire system is because of catastrophic compressor failure. You need to get all that metal and teflon out of there. Otherwise you can have good luck just blowing it out, but the dryer still needs to be replaced. If you don’t cut any corners, it works very well for the cost.

1989 GMC Safari with front and rear A/C is low on freon. Last charge lasted about 2 years. There is some oil leakage around the compressor. I expect that I will replace the compressor and accumulator. What is GM doing for A/C repairs on these vehicles? Are they converting to 134a or repairing as R12? What components are being replaced for conversions? Thanks! Barry I had my ‘87 Toyota 4X4 converted when the evaporator had a leak. I replaced the evaporator coil and the expansion valve. Also the pressure switch when I had the dash tore out. My mechanic blew out the system, (did Not flush it) and used ester oil with R-134. He used adaptors to pull a vacuum on the system and to charge it. It has been working for two years now without any problems. He claims that if you do not flush the system you do not have to change hoses and O rings along with the condenser and dryer. (The old oil residue protects them according to him) If and when the compressor goes, I will change everything out. The parts store says it is mandatory to change the Condenser coil and dryer for the compressor to be covered under their warranty. Jarhead

Response:

Don’t know what components have to be replaced or the cost. I do know that the cooling efficiency drops off so you will notice a difference. Considering the cost or R12 and the amount of stuff out there that is mixed with propane (definitely an explosion hazard), I’d go with the conversion. I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it. ~ Thomas Jefferson ~

Response:

Why does GM need so many divisions?

Question:

> Time for a GM history lesson.  

And what a lesson!  Thanks for the enlightenment.

Response:

> But it seems like they are all competing against each other in the > sedan, coupe, and SUV markets, while leaving significant parts of > the overall market with little coverage.  For example, hatchbacks, > station wagons, convertibles.

Honda was mentioned initially, but it doesn’t have a low-scale convertible either or a station wagon for the same reason the Sunfire convertible and the Roadmaster were discontinued: too few buyers. Finally, how many hatchback Civic have you seen lately?

Response:

> Like Saab, Daewoo, Isuzu, Subaru and a little of Fiat, Alfa Romeo and > Lancia.

Shucks, how could I forget Opel, Vauxhall, Holden, Hummer?  Well, I probably forgot others…

Response:

Why does Pepsi own Pizza Hut?   ;) mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot. > Like Saab, Daewoo, Isuzu, Subaru and a little of Fiat, Alfa Romeo and > Lancia. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln. > And Mazda, Volvo, Jaguar, Land Rover, Aston Martin. > Chevrolet is the budget brand, Pontiac is the sporty brand, Oldsmobile > is the anonymous brand, Buick is the luxury brand, Cadillac is the > ultra-luxury brand, and Saturn is the import-fighting brand. > Her, you answered your own question. > If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough. > It’s not enough for Toyota with itself and Lexus, plus Scion. > The more you think of it, the more it makes sense to sell 80% of the > same design with different styling and features to different > demographics than trying to make one size expecting to fit everybody.

Response:

> > Time for a GM history lesson.   > And what a lesson!  Thanks for the enlightenment.

You’re welcome.  As my friends would tell (warn) you, I love talking about General Motors. — -Toby Hanson Leader, Smilin’ Scandinavians Polka Band "Ask me about our new ‘Frequent Schottische’ program!"

Response:

> Because Buick is still not as "luxury" as Cadillac.  Nobody (except me, > perhaps) thinks of Buicks as the pinnacles of the automotive experience. > I’m personally one who has had good success with Buicks.  I’ve had good > success with other makes, too, but not like I have with Buick.  I realize > they are "the same" as Chevy and Pontiac, but I haven’t owned many of > those.  My Buicks don’t always look real nice, but they always run great and > ride great.  I’ve ridden in Cadillacs that didn’t feel as good to me as my > Buick.

Buick is the pinnacle of American middle class luxury.  I got my first Buick right at the end of high school and I’ve owned nothing else since.   I’m currently the proud owner of a 1983 LeSabre Limited with 275,000 miles on it.  I just had the engine and transmission rebuilt in September.  It was definitely worth it!  I’d rather drive that good ol’ Buick than any number of newer cars.  When GM finally sells another full-size RWD Buick that rides like my LeSabre I might think of moving up.  Of course, I could always find a nice low-mileage Roadmaster kicking around somewhere but I’m inclined to keep the ol’ Buick on the road for quite a while yet. >   My last one was an 83 Electra Limited.  Most people I knew had newer cars > (it was 1997 when I got that car).  I found that in driving other cars, none > compared to that Buick in terms of ride comfort.  There were cars that got > better gas mileage, looked better, got more attention, and were quicker, but > I couldn’t find a car that I liked any better.  I only sold it because it > wouldn’t pass inspection (a weld in the seat broke so it rocked back and > forth … it could’ve been fixed, but the bolts holding the seats in were > extremely rusty and I’d have had to cut them off and reweld new studs to the > floor .. I didn’t think the car was worth the effort, so I sold it for the > same $400 I paid for it).

Then you know what I’m talking about.  Buick is just the right balance of comfort, luxury, dependability and enjoyment.  It’s not flashy; it’s not the car that will get you laid.  But, if you do happen to have a woman with you there’s probably no better car to be intimate in than a big ol’ Buick.  Besides, isn’t it nice to know that if that 17yo kid in the tricked-out Honda rolls through the red light that you could crush his little car like a beer can? >   As soon as I find another Buick that is at the right price range and worth > the money, I’ll buy it and ride that one until the wheels fall off (or the > seat breaks LOL), too. >   Walter

– -Toby Hanson Leader, Smilin’ Scandinavians Polka Band "Ask me about our new ‘Frequent Schottische’ program!"

Response:

> Nice synopsis, Toby.

Thanks to everyone who enjoyed my history of GM.  I grew up in a GM family and Grandpa always liked to tell some of his great GM stories like the time he rode in his first Buick or the time Grandma got her first Oldsmobile.  Ah, what special times those were… — -Toby Hanson Leader, Smilin’ Scandinavians Polka Band "Ask me about our new ‘Frequent Schottische’ program!"

Response:

Toby Re fresh my memory…….Does your 83 Le Sabre have the round " hands " clock on the right hand side of the dash, above the glove box? I can’t remember if our 85 was like that……My aunt & uncles 79 Le Sabre & Electra was. Harryface ( Who didn’t take a dashboard photo of the 85  Buick when we had it ) Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE, 249,000 miles. Made In America By Good Ole Boys From GM’s Assembly Plant in Wentzville. MissourA.. 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door,  1980 – 83 2. 1968 Buick  LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88,  1986 -91 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000

Response:

> Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars?

one advantage of this system is that they can sell more cars than anyone else without appearing like they are. for example, here in my city anyway, gm sold more cars than any other manufacturer but every single gm division was beaten by another brand.  the sum of all their combined sales, though, easily left the other carmakers behind.  gm dealers here in winnipeg definitely are top dogs, but the average consumer will always see chevy as struggling to compete with honda. therefore, you probably get less of that "rooting for the underdog" attitude and buying something that’s only second best just so you don’t encourage the clear leader.

Response:

Because Buick is still not as "luxury" as Cadillac.  Nobody (except me, > perhaps) thinks of Buicks as the pinnacles of the automotive experience.

I’m personally one who has had good success with Buicks.  I’ve had good success with other makes, too, but not like I have with Buick.  I realize they are "the same" as Chevy and Pontiac, but I haven’t owned many of those.  My Buicks don’t always look real nice, but they always run great and ride great.  I’ve ridden in Cadillacs that didn’t feel as good to me as my Buick.   My last one was an 83 Electra Limited.  Most people I knew had newer cars (it was 1997 when I got that car).  I found that in driving other cars, none compared to that Buick in terms of ride comfort.  There were cars that got better gas mileage, looked better, got more attention, and were quicker, but I couldn’t find a car that I liked any better.  I only sold it because it wouldn’t pass inspection (a weld in the seat broke so it rocked back and forth … it could’ve been fixed, but the bolts holding the seats in were extremely rusty and I’d have had to cut them off and reweld new studs to the floor .. I didn’t think the car was worth the effort, so I sold it for the same $400 I paid for it).   As soon as I find another Buick that is at the right price range and worth the money, I’ll buy it and ride that one until the wheels fall off (or the seat breaks LOL), too.   Walter

Response:

By the way … nice job with the history of GM.  I couldn’t have done it better myself.  :)   Walter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Also Opel, Vauxhall, Daiwoo, …

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I apologize in advance for this dumb question. > Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars? > GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  (Admittedly, I wonder why > Mercury is necessary, since it seems to sell the same cars as Ford.) > Chevrolet is the budget brand, Pontiac is the sporty brand, Oldsmobile > is the anonymous brand, Buick is the luxury brand, Cadillac is the > ultra-luxury brand, and Saturn is the import-fighting brand.  Say > what?  If Saturns were intended to be import-fighters, why couldn’t > the whole company be Saturn?  Why should anyone buy a Cadillac for > luxury when Buicks offer luxury as well for thousands less?  Why does > GM need Buick if Cadillac is the luxury division?  And why must > several different brands sell the same GM vehicle?  Isn’t the Cadillac > Escalade just a glorified Chevy Suburban?  Didn’t Cadillac learn > anything from the time it tried to sell glorified Chevy Cavaliers with > leather seats and hood ornaments?  (And why hasn’t the Escalade been > the subject of such ridicule?)  For that matter, why do ALL the GM > divisions sell SUVs?  Couldn’t that be left to Chevy and GMC?  Isn’t > the Oldsmobile SUV just a clone of the Chevy Blazer?  I can’t imagine > driving off-road and roughing it in an Oldsmobile, Buick, or Cadillac. >  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and > Buick Century?  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Omega > and Buick Skylark?  What was the difference between a Camaro and > Firebird? > If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough.  Honda > would be subdivided into at least 4 different divisions, which would > include an economy division (Hondavey, analogous to Chevy), a sporty > division (Hondiac, analogous to Pontiac), a luxury division (Honduck, > which would just be a budget Acura and analogous to Buick), and > another division that has no identity (Hondamobile, analogous to > Oldsmobile).  Oh, I forgot.  There would be a fifth Honda division set > up to compete with everyone else (analogous to Saturn), as if that was > outside the scope of Hondavey, Hondiac, Honduck, and Hondamobile.

Response:

I don’t know why a person would even care that GM has so many divisions in such a diverse market, but you forgot a few of Fords.  They have part of MAzda, a stake in Yamaha I think, and they have part or all of Jaguar and maybe Land Rover also.

> I apologize in advance for this dumb question. > Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars? > GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  (Admittedly, I wonder why > Mercury is necessary, since it seems to sell the same cars as Ford.)

Rest of original post deleted.

Response:

>> For that matter, why do ALL the GMdivisions sell SUVs? >For the same reason that all GM divisions sell sedans or coupes (except for >GMC).  Various divisions can take a base vehicle, add their distinctions to >it, raise the price a little, and can then attract a segment of the market >who wouldn’t have otherwise considered purchasing that base vehicle because >it wasn’t sporty enough, or didn’t have enough sophistication to it.

But it seems like they are all competing against each other in the sedan, coupe, and SUV markets, while leaving significant parts of the overall market with little coverage.  For example, hatchbacks, station wagons, convertibles. — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

Response:

>I apologize in advance for this dumb question. >Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell >the same cars?

They seem to be moving away from being totally interchangeable….each brand has (and/or is trying to maintain) its own separate image.  It’s not economically feasible to make them totally separate so they share some components.  It’s no longer the 70s when all of GMs divisions sold the same car with only slight trim differences. GM isn’t the only company with several nearly redundant vehicles.  For the life of me I can’t tell the difference between many Toyota models.  What’s the difference between an Avalon & a Camry?  Seem to be pretty much the same car to me.  And what’s a Solara?  Just a 2-door version of one of the above.   Ditto for their line of trucks. > Saturn is the import-fighting brand.  Say what?  If Saturns were intended to be import-fighters, why couldn’t >the whole company be Saturn?

Not everyone particularly likes imports, or American cars that drive/feel/look like imports.  Saturn was created to attract those who would otherwise choose a foreign car without compromising existing brands.

Response:

Short story,  it allows you to get miffed with Olds but still buy a GM Buick,  GM still makes a sale. More sales opportunities.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I apologize in advance for this dumb question. > Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars? > GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  (Admittedly, I wonder why > Mercury is necessary, since it seems to sell the same cars as Ford.) > Chevrolet is the budget brand, Pontiac is the sporty brand, Oldsmobile > is the anonymous brand, Buick is the luxury brand, Cadillac is the > ultra-luxury brand, and Saturn is the import-fighting brand.  Say > what?  If Saturns were intended to be import-fighters, why couldn’t > the whole company be Saturn?  Why should anyone buy a Cadillac for > luxury when Buicks offer luxury as well for thousands less?  Why does > GM need Buick if Cadillac is the luxury division?  And why must > several different brands sell the same GM vehicle?  Isn’t the Cadillac > Escalade just a glorified Chevy Suburban?  Didn’t Cadillac learn > anything from the time it tried to sell glorified Chevy Cavaliers with > leather seats and hood ornaments?  (And why hasn’t the Escalade been > the subject of such ridicule?)  For that matter, why do ALL the GM > divisions sell SUVs?  Couldn’t that be left to Chevy and GMC?  Isn’t > the Oldsmobile SUV just a clone of the Chevy Blazer?  I can’t imagine > driving off-road and roughing it in an Oldsmobile, Buick, or Cadillac. >  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and > Buick Century?  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Omega > and Buick Skylark?  What was the difference between a Camaro and > Firebird? > If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough.  Honda > would be subdivided into at least 4 different divisions, which would > include an economy division (Hondavey, analogous to Chevy), a sporty > division (Hondiac, analogous to Pontiac), a luxury division (Honduck, > which would just be a budget Acura and analogous to Buick), and > another division that has no identity (Hondamobile, analogous to > Oldsmobile).  Oh, I forgot.  There would be a fifth Honda division set > up to compete with everyone else (analogous to Saturn), as if that was > outside the scope of Hondavey, Hondiac, Honduck, and Hondamobile.

Response:

> GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot.

Like Saab, Daewoo, Isuzu, Subaru and a little of Fiat, Alfa Romeo and Lancia. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  

And Mazda, Volvo, Jaguar, Land Rover, Aston Martin. > Chevrolet is the budget brand, Pontiac is the sporty brand, Oldsmobile > is the anonymous brand, Buick is the luxury brand, Cadillac is the > ultra-luxury brand, and Saturn is the import-fighting brand.  

Her, you answered your own question. > If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough.  

It’s not enough for Toyota with itself and Lexus, plus Scion. The more you think of it, the more it makes sense to sell 80% of the same design with different styling and features to different demographics than trying to make one size expecting to fit everybody.

Response:

> Bottom line: I like my Grand Am.  And I would not trade it for a Malibu, or > an Alero. =)

being an alero owner, i felt i had to offer my point of view: i would never trade in my alero for a grand-am. you should study the subject more carefully before you make your bold claims.  the alero/grand-am share almost all of their major parts. transmission ratios, and engine "peppiness" included.  stock and performance suspensions are actually more firm on alero models when compared to the grand-ams (judging by anti-roll bar diameters).  i found no information on steering system differences.  the chevy malibu is, as you said, soft and intended for grocery-getting.  the achieva was replaced by the alero, so they were never sold in the same model-years.  when introduced, the alero was a little more upscale and was more of a "sleeper" performer, while the grand-am had a more "in-your face, try me" attitude.  the only advantage, performance-wise, the grand-am had was the optional "ram-air" package, claiming an extra 5 hp on the 3.4 that both cars share.  in 1999, the alero had standard 4-wheel disc brakes while the grand-am and malibu had rear drums. having driven all three, i do not regret my choice of n-body.  my source for the data was from www.n-body.net before they recently changed their look and erased the technical information on the cars.

Response:

I apologize in advance for this dumb question. Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell the same cars? GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot. Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  (Admittedly, I wonder why Mercury is necessary, since it seems to sell the same cars as Ford.) Chevrolet is the budget brand, Pontiac is the sporty brand, Oldsmobile is the anonymous brand, Buick is the luxury brand, Cadillac is the ultra-luxury brand, and Saturn is the import-fighting brand.  Say what?  If Saturns were intended to be import-fighters, why couldn’t the whole company be Saturn?  Why should anyone buy a Cadillac for luxury when Buicks offer luxury as well for thousands less?  Why does GM need Buick if Cadillac is the luxury division?  And why must several different brands sell the same GM vehicle?  Isn’t the Cadillac Escalade just a glorified Chevy Suburban?  Didn’t Cadillac learn anything from the time it tried to sell glorified Chevy Cavaliers with leather seats and hood ornaments?  (And why hasn’t the Escalade been the subject of such ridicule?)  For that matter, why do ALL the GM divisions sell SUVs?  Couldn’t that be left to Chevy and GMC?  Isn’t the Oldsmobile SUV just a clone of the Chevy Blazer?  I can’t imagine driving off-road and roughing it in an Oldsmobile, Buick, or Cadillac.  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and Buick Century?  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Omega and Buick Skylark?  What was the difference between a Camaro and Firebird? If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough.  Honda would be subdivided into at least 4 different divisions, which would include an economy division (Hondavey, analogous to Chevy), a sporty division (Hondiac, analogous to Pontiac), a luxury division (Honduck, which would just be a budget Acura and analogous to Buick), and another division that has no identity (Hondamobile, analogous to Oldsmobile).  Oh, I forgot.  There would be a fifth Honda division set up to compete with everyone else (analogous to Saturn), as if that was outside the scope of Hondavey, Hondiac, Honduck, and Hondamobile.

Response:

> I apologize in advance for this dumb question. > Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars?

Time for a GM history lesson.  God created the heavens and the earth.   Then he created William C. Durant.  Billy Durant was a wheeler-dealer around the turn of the last century who knew how to raise money.  He collected a bunch of tiny little car companies into a conglomerate.   These include Buick, Oldsmobile, Cadillac, Oakland and a number of parts and supply manufacturers.  He manages to wheel and deal his way out of that company and it goes to the bankers who put the great Alfred P. Sloan in charge.  Durant teams up with a race car driver Louis Chevrolet and starts building cars again.  Eventually Chevrolet becomes so powerful that it buys out General Motors, Durant’s old company, and reorganizes the whole affair from the top down with a corporate staff overseeing a bunch of mostly independent divisions: Chevrolet, Oakland (later renamed Pontiac), Buick, Oldsmobile, Cadillac and GMC. The divisions we now know and love are the last vestiges of the days when each division built its own cars.  Even though there was a lot of interchange way back in the 1950s they still made most of their own powertrains and maintained a great deal of separation. > GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot.

Saturn isn’t exactly a division; it’s a wholly-owned corporation.  As Saturn matures, however, I expect it to come increasingly under the umbrella of GM as a division.  The current breakdown of divisions/markets is Chevrolet-entry level; Pontiac-sporty; Oldsmobile-nobody knows/cares; Buick-upscale family/middle class luxury; Cadillac-luxury; GMC-trucks/commercial chasses. From the glory days of Harley Earl until the 1990s the lineup was pretty much the same with the exception that Olds and Buick covered more or less the same territory as upscale family and middle class luxury cars.   The Oldsmobile 98 and Buick Park Ave/Electra were roughly comparable to a poor man’s Sedan de Ville. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  (Admittedly, I wonder why > Mercury is necessary, since it seems to sell the same cars as Ford.)

FoMoCo developed the Lincoln and Mercury brands in the 1930s to cover three market segments: entry-level, middle class and luxury.  Chrysler had the same divisional alignment for many years although they were assembled somewhat similarly to General Motors in that Walter Chrysler took over Maxwell, turned it into Plymouth, started making cars under his own name and added Dodge to the mix. > Chevrolet is the budget brand, Pontiac is the sporty brand, Oldsmobile > is the anonymous brand, Buick is the luxury brand, Cadillac is the > ultra-luxury brand, and Saturn is the import-fighting brand.  Say > what?  If Saturns were intended to be import-fighters, why couldn’t > the whole company be Saturn?  

Because Saturn isn’t necessarily an import fighter.  It’s a way for GM to try new approaches to making and selling cars.  Their target demographic happens to be the same demo in the sights of VW, Nissan, Toyota, Honda, etc. so it’s a de facto import fighter. > Why should anyone buy a Cadillac for > luxury when Buicks offer luxury as well for thousands less?  

Because Buick is still not as "luxury" as Cadillac.  Nobody (except me, perhaps) thinks of Buicks as the pinnacles of the automotive experience. > Why does > GM need Buick if Cadillac is the luxury division?  

Because Buick is positioned slightly below Cadillac in the market.   Cadillac doesn’t want to have the image of being merely a middle class car.  It wants to be first class and so Buick is relegated to middle class status. > And why must > several different brands sell the same GM vehicle?  

Making several different vehicles with similar components means lower production costs.  Also, a popular vehicle can be sold through more than one division. > Isn’t the Cadillac > Escalade just a glorified Chevy Suburban?  

Yes.  The point is that it’s glorified.  If it were merely a Suburban with a Cadillac badge it would be just a Suburban.  They actually make the Escalade with more features and amenities than the more pedestrian Suburban. > Didn’t Cadillac learn > anything from the time it tried to sell glorified Chevy Cavaliers with > leather seats and hood ornaments?  (And why hasn’t the Escalade been > the subject of such ridicule?)  

Yes it did.  Don’t rebadge a crappy car as a Cadillac.  That cheapens the brand image.  The early Cavaliers were not the best cars.  When Cadillac started peddling them as Cimarrons that make Cadillac seem chintzy.  They were trying to compete with smaller European luxury models from BMW and Mercedes.  They failed.  People could see that the Cimarron was pretty crappy and many people stayed away from them. The Escalade doesn’t suffer from the same problem as the Cimarron because it’s a much better vehicle and GM has figured out that it really needs to differentiate the two similar models and make the Escalade identifyably Cadillac. > For that matter, why do ALL the GM > divisions sell SUVs?  

Because SUVs are popular and many people want to buy them.  Technically the Pontiac Aztek/Buick Rendezvous are more crossover vehicles than SUVs.  SUVs are normally based on a truck platform and the Aztek/Rendezvous are based on car platforms.  They could just bring back the Safari and Estate Wagon station wagon models but station wagons are too uncool right now.   > Couldn’t that be left to Chevy and GMC?  Isn’t > the Oldsmobile SUV just a clone of the Chevy Blazer?  

It could, but people will buy an SUV made by just about anyone these days.  Even Mercedes has multiple SUVs in its model lineup. > I can’t imagine > driving off-road and roughing it in an Oldsmobile, Buick, or Cadillac.

That’s not the point.  People no longer use SUVs for off-road driving.   They’ve replaced the station wagon as the preferred family hauler.  Most of the people who own SUVs don’t even know what a dirt road looks like. >  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and > Buick Century?  

One is an Oldsmobile, the other is a Buick.  There’s not a whole lot of difference, really.  That’s part of why Oldsmobile is slated to join Plymouth, DeSoto and LaSalle up in automobile division heaven.  Olds doesn’t have an identity and a market niche anymore.  Their market has been gobbled up by Buick, Cadillac, Pontiac and Saturn.  They have nobody to compete with anymore.  It’s sad; I’ll hate to see the last Oldsmobile.  Olds was one of America’s greatest automotive makes for many years. > What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Omega > and Buick Skylark?  

See above. > What was the difference between a Camaro and > Firebird?

See above. > If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough.  Honda > would be subdivided into at least 4 different divisions, which would > include an economy division (Hondavey, analogous to Chevy), a sporty > division (Hondiac, analogous to Pontiac), a luxury division (Honduck, > which would just be a budget Acura and analogous to Buick), and > another division that has no identity (Hondamobile, analogous to > Oldsmobile).  Oh, I forgot.  There would be a fifth Honda division set > up to compete with everyone else (analogous to Saturn), as if that was > outside the scope of Hondavey, Hondiac, Honduck, and Hondamobile.

Well, sort of.  Honda is in a much different position that GM was.  GM was a conglomerate from the beginning.  Honda was a single-horse operation and has expanded into different market niches by growing with its customers in a way that GM hasn’t done in many years.  It used to be that a guy would start out in high school with a 15 year old Chevy and pour his time and money into fixing it up and eventually get his first good job and buy a Pontiac.  Once his bachelor days were over he’d settle down, marry and buy a Buick.  Around 40 or so he’d get more prosperous, join the country club and buy an Oldsmobile.  Once he became an executive he’d get the Cadillac, join the local Rotary Club and move to a big house on the north side of town.  GM buyers frequently moved up within the divisions. Honda started with the simplest, least-expensive economy cars.  As their new buyers became more affluent they developed new cars and eventually the Acura division.  Other Japanese makes have done the same thing: Toyota (Lexus) and Nissan (Infiniti). — -Toby Hanson Leader, Smilin’ Scandinavians Polka Band "Ask me about our new ‘Frequent Schottische’ program!"

Response:

> I apologize in advance for this dumb question. > Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars? > GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot.

How dare you to forget Holden! An Australian division of GM. And yes I am a proud owner of 2 Holdens too. (which who exports to the middle east and the US with the new GTO). :-) — Regards Dan. 93 S2 VP 3.8 A4, 00 S1 VX Gen 3 M6. V8 Freak. :-p

Response:

Nice synopsis, Toby.

Response:

> (snip) For that matter, why do ALL the GM > divisions sell SUVs?  Couldn’t that be left to Chevy and GMC?  Isn’t > the Oldsmobile SUV just a clone of the Chevy Blazer?  I can’t imagine > driving off-road and roughing it in an Oldsmobile, Buick, or Cadillac.

Hmm… You’ve never been on a Houston Freeway during rush hour? 8 out of 10 passenger vehicles are either P/U trucks or SUV’s. Men drive the P/U’s, women drive the SUV’s.

Response:

> I apologize in advance for this dumb question. > Why does GM need so many divisions, especially when they seem to sell > the same cars? > GM has Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile (being dropped), Buick, > Cadillac, Saturn, GMC, and perhaps another division or two I forgot. > Ford only has Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln.  (Admittedly, I wonder why > Mercury is necessary, since it seems to sell the same cars as Ford.)

Actually, it’s not so cut and dry any more with Ford.  They’ve done quite a bit of acquriing lately, and Ford now has Mazda, Aston-Martin, Jaguar, Land Rover, and Volvo, along with the Lincoln, Mercury and Ford names. And you forgot the Hummer Division of GM. =) > If Saturns were intended to be import-fighters, why couldn’t > the whole company be Saturn?

Because not everyone (including me) wants to buy a Saturn. =)  GM’s branding seems to have a lot of redundancy to it,but when you think about it each different iteration of a particular body style can have huge differences that attract different buyers.  Take for example, my car: a Pontiac Grand Am.  The same N-Body is used in the Olds Alero, the Olds Achieva, and the Chevy Malibu  You could ARGUE that this is the same car regardless of brand, but you’d be wrong.  Yes, the drivetrain is the same.  But, the Grand Am has firmer steering and different handling than an Alero or Malibu.  Tranmission ratios are different, delivering power at different shift points.  The Olds Alero and Achieva are going to give you a softer ride, than tha Grand Am, and the Grand Am is going to have more pep and acceleration than the Alero or the Malibu.  And the interiors are way different on each of those cars. Bottom line: I like my Grand Am.  And I would not trade it for a Malibu, or an Alero. =) > Why should anyone buy a Cadillac for > luxury when Buicks offer luxury as well for thousands less?

For the same reason that people will be an Acura rather than a high-end Honda: status.  Cadillac carries a higher level of status to it than a Buick, and some people willing to pay a premium for that status symbol, even if it is technically the same car. > Why does > GM need Buick if Cadillac is the luxury division?

For the reverse reason: some people want the amenities of a luxury car, but can’t spend the dough on a Cadillac. > Isn’t the Cadillac > Escalade just a glorified Chevy Suburban?

Yes, but the escalade will have a softer suspension based on a design that uses magnetic electronically controlled shock absorbers, as opposed to the old gas shocks you’ll get on the same car as a Chevy.  You’ll also get a smoother ride, shift points will have a gentler feel to them, and most importantly, there are more features and amenities that come standard to a Cadillac.  The trim is more upscale, you’ll get those heated leather seats, and you’ll have a Northstar engine with a Caddy. Again, the idea here is that the Escalade has all these bells and whistles added because there is a segment of the population who will not be caught dead buying a "common" vehicle like the Suburban.  They want a vehicle with class, and so they will consider the Cadillac instead. Likewise, most of us can’t afford or don’t want the high-fallootin’ status that goes with Cadillac, and think it’s all just a bunch of fluff.  So the rest of us will buy a suburban. =) > Didn’t Cadillac learn > anything from the time it tried to sell glorified Chevy Cavaliers with > leather seats and hood ornaments?

Yes: they learned that you need more than just some leather seats and hood ornaments to make a Cadillac and Cadillac.  So if you add more features to the same vehicle to distinguish it and make it something that will significantly stand out from the more basic vehicle it’s modeled after, people will be more likely to accept the higher price tag. > (And why hasn’t the Escalade been the subject of such ridicule?)

Better marketing. =) > For that matter, why do ALL the GMdivisions sell SUVs?

For the same reason that all GM divisions sell sedans or coupes (except for GMC).  Various divisions can take a base vehicle, add their distinctions to it, raise the price a little, and can then attract a segment of the market who wouldn’t have otherwise considered purchasing that base vehicle because it wasn’t sporty enough, or didn’t have enough sophistication to it. > Couldn’t that be left to Chevy and GMC?  Isn’t > the Oldsmobile SUV just a clone of the Chevy Blazer?

Yup, and because Olds caters to some of the same people as Cadillac, and some of the same people as Buick, Olds is being phased out. >  I can’t imagine > driving off-road and roughing it in an Oldsmobile, Buick, or Cadillac.

No, and most likely the people who buy SUVs won’t be doing it either. However, SUVs are the rage, and the high-income segment of the market wants a sylish looking SUV, even if they only intend to drive to the opera and back with it. >  What was the difference between the Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera and > Buick Century?

See above…  Some want luxury at a slightly lower price than what Cadillac will offer, and others want to pay that high price for bragging rights. > If Honda were like GM, Honda and Acura wouldn’t be enough.

Perhaps not, but you could argue that technically, the Acura divison is just as superfluous.  Underneath the hood, an Acura is little more than a rebadged Honda with a higher price tag.  But again, people want to be able to brag that they paid a lot for their luxury car… > Honda > would be subdivided into at least 4 different divisions, which would > include an economy division (Hondavey, analogous to Chevy), a sporty > division (Hondiac, analogous to Pontiac),

Don’t think for a moment that there’s not a market for this… you’ve seen trciked-up Hondas on the road, haven’t you? =)

Response:

Best All Around Tire?

Question:

Well, we just got our first snow of the season.  Probably won’t get anymore to tell you the truth.  Anyway, my tires are about shot (found out after sliding all over the road, so much for having a 4×4) and I’m looking for something to replace them.  A good all around tire for both road and very light off road use. Any ideas?  New shoes for a 92 K1500 4×4 6.2 diesel. Beaner

Response:

I don’t have longevity to back me up, but I am really liking the Remington Wide Brute tires I just put on m wife’s ‘94 Burb.  They don’t throw you in heavy water, have great traction in the snow (uphill driveway and drifts on the road), and are very quiet for a tire of this size. Just my opinion. Snowman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, we just got our first snow of the season.  Probably won’t get anymore > to tell you the truth.  Anyway, my tires are about shot (found out after > sliding all over the road, so much for having a 4×4) and I’m looking for > something to replace them.  A good all around tire for both road and very > light off road use. > Any ideas?  New shoes for a 92 K1500 4×4 6.2 diesel. > Beaner

Response:

I got  101K out of my last set of Michelin LTX tires. I have about 60K on my current set. They are fairing quite as well as the others, but I’ve done more off-road then that last set.  They are great in snow and water.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, we just got our first snow of the season.  Probably won’t get anymore > to tell you the truth.  Anyway, my tires are about shot (found out after > sliding all over the road, so much for having a 4×4) and I’m looking for > something to replace them.  A good all around tire for both road and very > light off road use. > Any ideas?  New shoes for a 92 K1500 4×4 6.2 diesel. > Beaner

Response:

> I got  101K out of my last set of Michelin LTX tires. I have about 60K on my > current set. They are fairing quite as well as the others, but I’ve done > more off-road then that last set.  They are great in snow and water.

As far as Ice and hardpack, I think they are the best I have ever driven.  I have been using the LTX for years now, and have not found a condition where they have been less than superb. But they are pricy. Well worth it.  Cheaper than a body repair. Scott

Response:

I say you get what you pay for, LTX’S are good tires. I would’nt put anything but michelins on my vehicles. Larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I got  101K out of my last set of Michelin LTX tires. I have about 60K > on my > current set. They are fairing quite as well as the others, but I’ve done > more off-road then that last set.  They are great in snow and water. > As far as Ice and hardpack, I think they are the best I have ever > driven.  I have been using the LTX for years now, and have not found a > condition where they have been less than superb. > But they are pricy. > Well worth it.  Cheaper than a body repair. > Scott

Response:

Kelly-Springfield Safari SUV. Superior wet and dry traction, awesome in yesterdays wet snow! 265r16 should run around $92 on the truck. Here’s what, I have not needed 4wd yet! Have a great one! Bush 2001 GMC Sierra Z-71 SLT x-cab loaded 1952 GMC 1/2T long stepside 3.90 open drive T-5 gearbox 12V – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well, we just got our first snow of the season.  Probably won’t get anymore >to tell you the truth.  Anyway, my tires are about shot (found out after >sliding all over the road, so much for having a 4×4) and I’m looking for >something to replace them.  A good all around tire for both road and very >light off road use. >Any ideas?  New shoes for a 92 K1500 4×4 6.2 diesel. >Beaner

Response:

Michelin, michelin, michelin

Response:

BFG A/T KO!!! THE best all-around tire I have EVER come across, including the LTX. The only non-snow-specific tire to have a severe snow rating. Very quiet on road, long wearing, great handling, strong sidewalls, fair priced… Awesome in everything I have put them through except serious mud.

Response:

My vote for the Bridgestone Dueler AT REVO…….DAMN am I impressed with them. We just got 14 inches of the white stuff here in NY and I have been biting thru everything on the roads. The plows werent out and I had to get to work (yes, I am one of those lucky people who are considered "neccessary travelers") Although it was slow, I had ZERO problems driving . Remember, the best is ALWAYS subjective to who is writing

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> BFG A/T KO!!! THE best all-around tire I have EVER come across, including > the LTX. The only non-snow-specific tire to have a severe snow rating. Very > quiet on road, long wearing, great handling, strong sidewalls, fair > priced… Awesome in everything I have put them through except serious mud.

Response:

>BFG A/T KO!!! THE best all-around tire I have EVER come across, including >the LTX. The only non-snow-specific tire to have a severe snow rating. Very >quiet on road, long wearing, great handling, strong sidewalls, fair >priced… Awesome in everything I have put them through except serious mud.

I’ll agree, though I haven’t used mine offroad.  I think they’re an EXCELLENT snow tire because they’re designed for mud and snow is the next worst thing.  I tried doing a donut in the parking lot at work the first snowfall we had after I got them and had trouble, in 2WD. This is my third winter with these tires and I don’t think I’d want anything else.

Response:

I’ve been running the AT’s since before they re-designed them and started calling them "KO’s", and they’re hands down, the best tire I’ve ever tried. I used to have an ‘85 C-10 way back in HS when I lived in Northern Maryland, and lemme tell ya, the All-Terrain T/A’s made it handle like a 4wd in the snow.  Lived in Pittsburgh for 6+ years, and never had any probs with the TA’s there either – and I’ve got a friend that plows snow on the side to make hunting money and all he’ll ever run are the AT’s. And if i remember right, if you buy all 4, and *somehow* manage to get stuck, BFG will send out a tow truck……how’s that for product support?? Jeremy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->BFG A/T KO!!! THE best all-around tire I have EVER come across, including >the LTX. The only non-snow-specific tire to have a severe snow rating. Very >quiet on road, long wearing, great handling, strong sidewalls, fair >priced… Awesome in everything I have put them through except serious mud. > I’ll agree, though I haven’t used mine offroad.  I think they’re an > EXCELLENT snow tire because they’re designed for mud and snow is the > next worst thing.  I tried doing a donut in the parking lot at work > the first snowfall we had after I got them and had trouble, in 2WD. > This is my third winter with these tires and I don’t think I’d want > anything else.

Response:

hey beaner, dixie is right-on: for years i drove my 3rd-gen camaro in the snow with blizzaks, and we get for-real lake-effect snow up here by lake ontario. tires make all the difference- i’ve never gotten it stuck. so when i was forced to buy a blazer, i immediately put 31" blizzak winter duelers on it, and it is unstoppable. by this i mean, i can drive in 2hi almost always, and a couple of inches of snow merely feels like driving in the rain. if there is six or more inches of heavy slush, and i put it in 4hi, i can just about break the tires free if i floor it. i also have to stand on the brakes to get antilock to rear its annoying head. in fact, i have yet to see snow that even needs 4hi, but i did use it in reverse to yank a duster out of a ditch for a pretty girl… summary: buy blizzaks, run 2hi, ignore weather forecasts. use "m&s" tires and expect to need 4hi. i will not discuss 4lo. one more thing- the blizzaks are a true "ice tire". you just cant believe how they hook up on a sheet of super-hardpack until you see it. for snow, they have big ol’ square knobs. -

1995 Safari

Question:

‘95 safari doesn’t idle Surging…I’d take it to a gaage and ask for senser scan.

Response:

This was the symptoms of the EGR valve problem that was a recall on them. GM would also replace or reprogram the chip while it was there. Go to your GMC dealer and see if yours is in the range for the factory recall I got mine in without the notice through the field manager. If it was already done I guess it’s up to you. I had my injectors replaced without much difference, after the egr fix all seemed O.K.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, I have a 1995 Safari van and have had a terrible time with the idle. It > seems to stick and rev quite high at times and other times it does not idle > at all. I have had it at the garage numerous times and they are unable to > fix it. I have been told that it is jsut a build up of carbon which then > plugs the fuel injectors, causing the computer to compensate with a fast > idle. I have used all the additives I can find to clean the fuel injectors, > but nothing seems to work. I am desperate for suggestions. I really like the > van, but am getting a little concerned. > Please respond to me directly with any suggestions. > Thank you in advance.

Response:

The Vortec CPFI systems have a tendency to clog up sometimes. The fuel-additive injector cleaners are generally pretty ineffective. If that is the problem, you might need to have it hooked up to a cleaning system (I believe that GM’s setup pumps in a mixture of gas and Top Engine Cleaner). Then again, it could be some other cause. How much diagnosis has anyone done on it? — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, I have a 1995 Safari van and have had a terrible time with the idle. It > seems to stick and rev quite high at times and other times it does not idle > at all. I have had it at the garage numerous times and they are unable to > fix it. I have been told that it is jsut a build up of carbon which then > plugs the fuel injectors, causing the computer to compensate with a fast > idle. I have used all the additives I can find to clean the fuel injectors, > but nothing seems to work. I am desperate for suggestions. I really like the > van, but am getting a little concerned. > Please respond to me directly with any suggestions. > Thank you in advance.

Response:

Hi, I have a 1995 Safari van and have had a terrible time with the idle. It seems to stick and rev quite high at times and other times it does not idle at all. I have had it at the garage numerous times and they are unable to fix it. I have been told that it is jsut a build up of carbon which then plugs the fuel injectors, causing the computer to compensate with a fast idle. I have used all the additives I can find to clean the fuel injectors, but nothing seems to work. I am desperate for suggestions. I really like the van, but am getting a little concerned. Please respond to me directly with any suggestions. Thank you in advance.

Response:

1988 Astro Van rear door

Question:

My Astro Van rear door is hard to open. (the one on the left side looking from the rear outside)  More so, lately.  It always has been a push pull operation.  (Pulling on the handle while pushing on the door)  If I take the panel off, and inspect the linkage or mechanism, what shall I look for? Thanks. Perry bentcajungirl

Response:

Your orientation is ambiguous. Left and right on a car is ALWAYS from the perspective of a driver sitting behind the steering wheel. That said, it probably doesn’t make much difference which door. Before removing a panel try cleaning accumulated grease and dirt from the latches, then spray them with a bit of "white grease" (Comes in an aerosol can with a plastic tube.) Do the same for the hinges, too. You may be surprised how this treatment can loosen things up. Look for a striker out of adjustment or a hinge sagging allowing the door to rub the sill. Finally, if still necessary, pull the door panels and look for something in the linkage binding. Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My Astro Van rear door is hard to open. (the one on the left side looking > from the rear outside)  More so, lately.  It always has been a push pull > operation.  (Pulling on the handle while pushing on the door)  If I take the > panel off, and inspect the linkage or mechanism, what shall I look for? > Thanks. > Perry > bentcajungirl

Response:

> My Astro Van rear door is hard to open. (the one on the left side looking > from the rear outside)  More so, lately.  It always has been a push pull > operation.  (Pulling on the handle while pushing on the door)  If I take the > panel off, and inspect the linkage or mechanism, what shall I look for? > Thanks. > Perry > bentcajungirl

I had this same problem on my 87 GMC Safari.  I let it persist until the door finally wouldn’t open.  I had the exact same symptoms you describe (pushing on the door to open it).  What eventually happened was that the door handle broke.  Specifically it was the tab that lifts the latch rod that unlatches the latch on the door.  I had to cut open the inside panel and manually pull the rod to unlatch the door to get it open and then remove and replace the door latch mechanism.  GM has redesigned all of the door handles for the Safari/Astro.  I’ve replaced two of them so far because the cheap pot metal handles broke.  The new ones work much better. — -Toby Hanson Leader, Smilin’ Scandinavians Polka Band "Ask me about our new ‘Frequent Schottische’ program!"

Response:

Torque Converter Clutch Vibration

Question:

I have a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon with a 5.0 l V-8 and 700-4R (Automatic Overdrive) Automatic Transmission.  Whenever I drive 60-65 mph or more on the highway, after about 30 miles the the car starts to vibrate quite violently when I run uphill grades.  The problem appears to be caused by the Torqe Converter Clutch rapidly engaging in and out or possibly just slipping.  When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or depress the accellerator the clutch disengages and the car runs smooth again.  Sometimes the vibration occurrs only on steep hills, and other times it happens whenever I accellerate lightly.  This problem began when the car had about 75,000 miles, and has only gotten slightly worse though the car now has about 145,000 miles!  Whenever I ask a transmission shop, they say I need a complete transmission rebuild at an estimated $1100-$1500 to cure the problem.  All this time, the transmission has otherwise ran just fine, no slipping or delayed shifting, or leaks. Common sense says that the problem should be fixable without re-building the entire transmission. Does anyone know what the true cause of this vibration problem is? I can’t help wonder if replacing just the torque converter could fix the problem. I would appreciate any opinions on the matter. P.S. I have a 1988 GMC Safari Van 4.3 l V-6 with the same transmission that has now (at 170,000 miles) developed a very similar problem, with somewat less vibration intensity.

Response:

Are you sure it’s not an engine misfire you’re feeling? If the engine is misfiring, often it’s a lot more noticeable with the TCC engaged, because of the direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. However, I don’t know if that would explain the amount of vibration you’re describing.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon with a 5.0 l V-8 and 700-4R > (Automatic Overdrive) Automatic Transmission.  Whenever I drive 60-65 mph or > more on the highway, after about 30 miles the the car starts to vibrate > quite violently when I run uphill grades.  The problem appears to be caused > by the Torqe Converter Clutch rapidly engaging in and out or possibly just > slipping.  When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > depress the accellerator the clutch disengages and the car runs smooth > again.  Sometimes the vibration occurrs only on steep hills, and other times > it happens whenever I accellerate lightly.  This problem began when the car > had about 75,000 miles, and has only gotten slightly worse though the car > now has about 145,000 miles!  Whenever I ask a transmission shop, they say I > need a complete transmission rebuild at an estimated $1100-$1500 to cure the > problem.  All this time, the transmission has otherwise ran just fine, no > slipping or delayed shifting, or leaks. > Common sense says that the problem should be fixable without re-building the > entire transmission. > Does anyone know what the true cause of this vibration problem is? > I can’t help wonder if replacing just the torque converter could fix the > problem. > I would appreciate any opinions on the matter. > P.S. I have a 1988 GMC Safari Van 4.3 l V-6 with the same transmission that > has now (at 170,000 miles) developed a very similar problem, with somewat > less vibration intensity.

Response:

Sorry for the delay, I wasn’t able to access the news server for some reason. I am fairly sure that this is not an engine miss, but in fact is a torque converter clutch problem of some sort.  The reaction to brake/throttle is definite: "When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or depress the accellerator the clutch DISENGAGES and the car runs smooth again."

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are you sure it’s not an engine misfire you’re feeling? If the engine is > misfiring, often it’s a lot more noticeable with the TCC engaged, because of > the direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. However, > I don’t know if that would explain the amount of vibration you’re > describing.. > — > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > I have a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon with a 5.0 l V-8 and 700-4R > (Automatic Overdrive) Automatic Transmission.  Whenever I drive 60-65 mph > or > more on the highway, after about 30 miles the the car starts to vibrate > quite violently when I run uphill grades.  The problem appears to be > caused > by the Torqe Converter Clutch rapidly engaging in and out or possibly just > slipping.  When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > depress the accellerator the clutch disengages and the car runs smooth > again.  Sometimes the vibration occurrs only on steep hills, and other > times > it happens whenever I accellerate lightly.  This problem began when the > car > had about 75,000 miles, and has only gotten slightly worse though the car > now has about 145,000 miles!  Whenever I ask a transmission shop, they say > I > need a complete transmission rebuild at an estimated $1100-$1500 to cure > the > problem.  All this time, the transmission has otherwise ran just fine, no > slipping or delayed shifting, or leaks. > Common sense says that the problem should be fixable without re-building > the > entire transmission. > Does anyone know what the true cause of this vibration problem is? > I can’t help wonder if replacing just the torque converter could fix the > problem. > I would appreciate any opinions on the matter. > P.S. I have a 1988 GMC Safari Van 4.3 l V-6 with the same transmission > that > has now (at 170,000 miles) developed a very similar problem, with somewat > less vibration intensity.

Response:

Can you run with the TCC solenoid wires unhooked and see if the problem goes away? Just a thought, GW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Sorry for the delay, I wasn’t able to access the news server for some > reason. > I am fairly sure that this is not an engine miss, but in fact is a torque > converter clutch problem of some sort.  The reaction to brake/throttle is > definite: "When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > depress the accellerator the clutch DISENGAGES and the car runs smooth > again." > Are you sure it’s not an engine misfire you’re feeling? If the engine is > misfiring, often it’s a lot more noticeable with the TCC engaged, because > of > the direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. > However, > I don’t know if that would explain the amount of vibration you’re > describing.. > — > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > > I have a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon with a 5.0 l V-8 and > 700-4R > > (Automatic Overdrive) Automatic Transmission.  Whenever I drive 60-65 > mph > or > > more on the highway, after about 30 miles the the car starts to vibrate > > quite violently when I run uphill grades.  The problem appears to be > caused > > by the Torqe Converter Clutch rapidly engaging in and out or possibly > just > > slipping.  When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > > depress the accellerator the clutch disengages and the car runs smooth > > again.  Sometimes the vibration occurrs only on steep hills, and other > times > > it happens whenever I accellerate lightly.  This problem began when the > car > > had about 75,000 miles, and has only gotten slightly worse though the > car > > now has about 145,000 miles!  Whenever I ask a transmission shop, they > say > I > > need a complete transmission rebuild at an estimated $1100-$1500 to cure > the > > problem.  All this time, the transmission has otherwise ran just fine, > no > > slipping or delayed shifting, or leaks. > > Common sense says that the problem should be fixable without re-building > the > > entire transmission. > > Does anyone know what the true cause of this vibration problem is? > > I can’t help wonder if replacing just the torque converter could fix the > > problem. > > I would appreciate any opinions on the matter. > > P.S. I have a 1988 GMC Safari Van 4.3 l V-6 with the same transmission > that > > has now (at 170,000 miles) developed a very similar problem, with > somewat > > less vibration intensity.

– GW – note incorrect email address

Response:

Yes, I should have mentioned that I had done this once in the past, and the vibration definitely did go away!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can you run with the TCC solenoid wires unhooked and see if the problem goes > away? > Just a thought, > GW > Sorry for the delay, I wasn’t able to access the news server for some > reason. > I am fairly sure that this is not an engine miss, but in fact is a torque > converter clutch problem of some sort.  The reaction to brake/throttle is > definite: "When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > depress the accellerator the clutch DISENGAGES and the car runs smooth > again." > > Are you sure it’s not an engine misfire you’re feeling? If the engine is > > misfiring, often it’s a lot more noticeable with the TCC engaged, because > of > > the direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. > However, > > I don’t know if that would explain the amount of vibration you’re > > describing.. > > — > > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > > > I have a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon with a 5.0 l V-8 and > 700-4R > > > (Automatic Overdrive) Automatic Transmission.  Whenever I drive 60-65 > mph > > or > > > more on the highway, after about 30 miles the the car starts to vibrate > > > quite violently when I run uphill grades.  The problem appears to be > > caused > > > by the Torqe Converter Clutch rapidly engaging in and out or possibly > just > > > slipping.  When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > > > depress the accellerator the clutch disengages and the car runs smooth > > > again.  Sometimes the vibration occurrs only on steep hills, and other > > times > > > it happens whenever I accellerate lightly.  This problem began when the > > car > > > had about 75,000 miles, and has only gotten slightly worse though the > car > > > now has about 145,000 miles!  Whenever I ask a transmission shop, they > say > > I > > > need a complete transmission rebuild at an estimated $1100-$1500 to cure > > the > > > problem.  All this time, the transmission has otherwise ran just fine, > no > > > slipping or delayed shifting, or leaks. > > > Common sense says that the problem should be fixable without re-building > > the > > > entire transmission. > > > Does anyone know what the true cause of this vibration problem is? > > > I can’t help wonder if replacing just the torque converter could fix the > > > problem. > > > I would appreciate any opinions on the matter. > > > P.S. I have a 1988 GMC Safari Van 4.3 l V-6 with the same transmission > > that > > > has now (at 170,000 miles) developed a very similar problem, with > somewat > > > less vibration intensity. > — > GW – note incorrect email address

Response:

Yes

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can you run with the TCC solenoid wires unhooked and see if the problem goes > away? > Just a thought, > GW > Sorry for the delay, I wasn’t able to access the news server for some > reason. > I am fairly sure that this is not an engine miss, but in fact is a torque > converter clutch problem of some sort.  The reaction to brake/throttle is > definite: "When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > depress the accellerator the clutch DISENGAGES and the car runs smooth > again." > > Are you sure it’s not an engine misfire you’re feeling? If the engine is > > misfiring, often it’s a lot more noticeable with the TCC engaged, because > of > > the direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. > However, > > I don’t know if that would explain the amount of vibration you’re > > describing.. > > — > > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > > > I have a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon with a 5.0 l V-8 and > 700-4R > > > (Automatic Overdrive) Automatic Transmission.  Whenever I drive 60-65 > mph > > or > > > more on the highway, after about 30 miles the the car starts to vibrate > > > quite violently when I run uphill grades.  The problem appears to be > > caused > > > by the Torqe Converter Clutch rapidly engaging in and out or possibly > just > > > slipping.  When this happens, if I depress the brake pedal slightly, or > > > depress the accellerator the clutch disengages and the car runs smooth > > > again.  Sometimes the vibration occurrs only on steep hills, and other > > times > > > it happens whenever I accellerate lightly.  This problem began when the > > car > > > had about 75,000 miles, and has only gotten slightly worse though the > car > > > now has about 145,000 miles!  Whenever I ask a transmission shop, they > say > > I > > > need a complete transmission rebuild at an estimated $1100-$1500 to cure > > the > > > problem.  All this time, the transmission has otherwise ran just fine, > no > > > slipping or delayed shifting, or leaks. > > > Common sense says that the problem should be fixable without re-building > > the > > > entire transmission. > > > Does anyone know what the true cause of this vibration problem is? > > > I can’t help wonder if replacing just the torque converter could fix the > > > problem. > > > I would appreciate any opinions on the matter. > > > P.S. I have a 1988 GMC Safari Van 4.3 l V-6 with the same transmission > > that > > > has now (at 170,000 miles) developed a very similar problem, with > somewat > > > less vibration intensity. > — > GW – note incorrect email address

Response:

Preferred sparkplugs?

Question:

1989 GMC Safari 4.3L. Changing plugs is a pain in the butt. So I am looking at long life plugs like platinum plugs. I am biased against Champion because I had one shear off in an aluminum head on another vehicle. Probably had little to do with the spark plug but if you have ever had this happen you  need to take out the frustration somewhere. What plugs do you like best and why? I have been using antiseize on aluminum heads. Should I use it on my cast iron ones too? Thanks for your opinions! Barry

Response:

I use AC Delco R43TSM in my 4.3 (I think that’s the number of the plug), can’t really go wrong, the first set in the truck (from the factory) lasted 60,000 miles before I replaced for regular maintenence.  I would NOT reccomend going that long, 30,000 miles is about the longest I’d go on a set of plugs.  Platinum plugs did nothing for me, I replaced a set of them in my 4.3 with the above mentioned AC Delco plugs and saw performance and gas mileage gains, the platinum plugs only had around 30,000 miles on them at the time of removal… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >1989 GMC Safari 4.3L. Changing plugs is a pain in the butt. So I am >looking at long life plugs like platinum plugs. I am biased against >Champion because I had one shear off in an aluminum head on another >vehicle. Probably had little to do with the spark plug but if you have >ever had this happen you  need to take out the frustration somewhere. >What plugs do you like best and why? I have been using antiseize on >aluminum heads. Should I use it on my cast iron ones too? >Thanks for your opinions! >Barry

Response:

What does battery light indicate?

Question:

Steve, that may be true in some areas. Where I live, there are big signs in the parking lots of the auto parts stores that forbid doing repair work in the lots. It is a zoning thing. I’ve always found it better to do the repair back home in my garage, where I have everything that I need. Then, once it is repaired, I can drive back to the auto parts store as a test-drive of the repair. —Bob Gross—

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> True statement, I myself have done the diagnosis before the rushing out an > buying an alternator, but after 2 or three times it’s just easier to drive > right to the parts store when you see the battery light come on. There were > a few times I just saw the light, drove to the local auto parts store, > walked in, bought an alternator walked out to the car, grabbed my 19MM, 13MM > and 10MM wrenches out of the trunk, and changed the alternator in the > parking lot in about 5 minutes. The good thing is: you can get your core > credit right away. > Steve

Response:

They have those signs at the parts stores in my area too.  We also have highway signs that say "Speed Limit 65", "No Travelling in Breakdown Lane", "No Turn on Red" etc.  Apparently all these signs are installed just to keep sign makers busy as most if not all go unheeded and violaters go unpunished. — "Opportunities are spawned from crisis"

Steve, that may be true in some areas. Where I live, there are big signs in the parking lots of the auto parts stores that forbid doing repair work in the lots. It is a zoning thing.

Response:

The charge indicator light will come on any time the alternators output voltage is less than the battery voltage. Sounds like it is working correctly in both instances. Connect a simple volt meter to the battery terminals and run the engine up past a fast idle – the volt meter should read 13.6 to 14.3 volts or so if the alternator is charging properly. — "Opportunities are spawned from crisis"

1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the battery light indicating? Barry

Response:

On some GM vehicles of that era, you can "blow out" some of the sections of the alternator (actually the rectifiers) and the alternator will then have reduced output. It still works, but not fully. With a good test system, you can spot that in voltage and current. —Bob Gross— – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The charge indicator light will come on any time the alternators output > voltage is less than the battery voltage. > Sounds like it is working correctly in both instances. > Connect a simple volt meter to the battery terminals and run the engine up > past a fast idle – the volt meter should read 13.6 to 14.3 volts or so if > the alternator is charging properly. > — > "Opportunities are spawned from crisis" > 1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and > runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was > indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. > I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of > the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the > battery light indicating? > Barry

Response:

On mid-late 80’s vehicles a GM (Delco) Alternator, the internal voltage regulator is controlled by three diodes.  Diode faults are generally the cause of alternator failure.  Only ONE of the diodes controls the battery light.  If that is not the one that faults, then you will have reduced output until your battery goes dead.  The only way to find it is an charging system checkout. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > On some GM vehicles of that era, you can "blow out" some of the sections of > the alternator (actually the rectifiers) and the alternator will then have > reduced output. It still works, but not fully. With a good test system, you > can spot that in voltage and current. > —Bob Gross— > The charge indicator light will come on any time the alternators output > voltage is less than the battery voltage. > Sounds like it is working correctly in both instances. > Connect a simple volt meter to the battery terminals and run the engine up > past a fast idle – the volt meter should read 13.6 to 14.3 volts or so if > the alternator is charging properly. > — > "Opportunities are spawned from crisis" > 1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and > runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was > indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. > I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of > the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the > battery light indicating? > Barry

Response:

Yes, I had one rectifer section fail (with a "snap" sound) and the alternator still worked so-so. Then I had a second section fail, and it still worked just a little. It could not power up headlights and run the car, but the car would run if I used no lights or accessories at all. Obviously, that alternator got replaced a day later. I did not need any charging system check to see what was going on. —Bob Gross— – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On mid-late 80’s vehicles a GM (Delco) Alternator, the internal voltage > regulator is controlled by three diodes.  Diode faults are generally the cause > of alternator failure.  Only ONE of the diodes controls the battery light. If > that is not the one that faults, then you will have reduced output until your > battery goes dead.  The only way to find it is an charging system checkout. > On some GM vehicles of that era, you can "blow out" some of the sections of > the alternator (actually the rectifiers) and the alternator will then have > reduced output. It still works, but not fully. With a good test system, you > can spot that in voltage and current.

Response:

True statement, I myself have done the diagnosis before the rushing out an buying an alternator, but after 2 or three times it’s just easier to drive right to the parts store when you see the battery light come on. There were a few times I just saw the light, drove to the local auto parts store, walked in, bought an alternator walked out to the car, grabbed my 19MM, 13MM and 10MM wrenches out of the trunk, and changed the alternator in the parking lot in about 5 minutes. The good thing is: you can get your core credit right away. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> SM, > I just wanted to make sure he didn’t rush out and spend the money without > thorough diagnosis. > I could have written that better. > GW > I have to disagree with Geoff’s statistic, "9 out of ten times that means > the alternator is bad." When it comes to GM products, when the battery light > comes on, you can be 99.99% sure it’s the alternator. > :) Steve > 3 cars, 1992 Lumina 3.1 (5 alternators in 8 years), 1995 Z34 3.4 (2 > alternators in 3 weeks), 1988 Z24 2.8 (4 alternators in 4 years)……. > > >1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and > > >runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was > > >indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. > > >I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of > > >the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the > > >battery light indicating? > > >Barry > — > or click on

Response:

It indicates low voltage in the charging system.  9 out of 10 times that means the alternator is bad. The rest of the time it’s a wiring problem.  (loose, dirty, chafed….) GW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and > runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was > indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. > I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of > the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the > battery light indicating? > Barry

Response:

1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the battery light indicating? Barry

Response:

SM, I just wanted to make sure he didn’t rush out and spend the money without thorough diagnosis. I could have written that better. GW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have to disagree with Geoff’s statistic, "9 out of ten times that means > the alternator is bad." When it comes to GM products, when the battery light > comes on, you can be 99.99% sure it’s the alternator. > :) Steve > 3 cars, 1992 Lumina 3.1 (5 alternators in 8 years), 1995 Z34 3.4 (2 > alternators in 3 weeks), 1988 Z24 2.8 (4 alternators in 4 years)……. > >1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and > >runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was > >indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. > >I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of > >the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the > >battery light indicating? > >Barry

– or click on

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and >runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was >indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. >I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of >the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the >battery light indicating? >Barry

Response:

I have to disagree with Geoff’s statistic, "9 out of ten times that means the alternator is bad." When it comes to GM products, when the battery light comes on, you can be 99.99% sure it’s the alternator. :) Steve 3 cars, 1992 Lumina 3.1 (5 alternators in 8 years), 1995 Z34 3.4 (2 alternators in 3 weeks), 1988 Z24 2.8 (4 alternators in 4 years)……. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->1989 GMC Safari. Would not start. Replaced starter. Vehicle starts and >runs. I have a voltage indicator on the instrument panel. It was >indicating in the yellow and the battery dummy light was illuminated. >I replaced the battery. Now the voltage when running is just out of >the yellow range but the battery light is still on. What is the >battery light indicating? >Barry

Response:

These Kids are going to drive me nuts

Question:

I’m  heading out of town on business for a week or so , my wife will have to live with it this way until I get back … I;ll let you know what I find ,,, Thanks again for the help Myron — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I do not have remote starting. My factory shop manual doesn’t even show it. > Maybe it wasn’t offered in 1995? > So bear in mind the models are different and mine is not equipped with remote > starter. Other than that I would expect them to be very similar. What I am > writing is based on my observation of the 1995 model and the 1995 shop manual. > You say, "… sometimes the upper door will open , but the bottom door stay > locked." There is an actuator in the liftgate and another in the lower righthand > door. Sounds like the latter is failing intermittently.   Or the power lead to > it is broken. (Inside the insulation, so it sometimes makes the circuit, > sometimes doesn’t.)   Does it show this behavior from the instrument panel > switch as well as the lock in the back door? The IP switch and the RKE units > should work ONLY when the shifter is in PARK or NEUTRAL. > First step: find and check the 30 amp circuit breaker. Should be in the > "convenience center" (What a misnomer!) labelled PWR ACC. There are probably two > in your Safari. If they are both 30 amp you could swap them as a test. > Best I can read the pictures in the manual the wiring harness is routed under > the carpet along the driver’s door, then up beside (or through?) the pillar > behind the driver and overhead to the back where it descends to the second A/C > unit and on around the back roof to the right side and down to the conduit into > the lower right door. If I understand your symptoms rightly, I’d start by > opening that right rear door and trace power back from there. > Happy hunting! > Myron E. Williams > Yes I have remote start .. locks … the only way I can get the back door to > open is using the key … I’ve had some time to play with it … sometimes > the upper door will open , but the bottom door stay locked  but I am > wondering if there are wires under the carpet ,  I agree it seems to point > toward a short … > — > > Does the beast have Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)? Or are you just pushing > the door > > switches and using the key in the rear? > > I’m assuming the ‘98 is very similar to my ‘95. Sure don’t see anything in > that > > wiring diagram that would cause self-activation UNLESS you have a chafed > wire > > intermittently grounding. > > Back to the original question: does it have RKE? Maybe I can sniff out > what wire > > to look for. I love a challenge. > > Myron E. Williams > > > Thanks for your help .. My wife went out in the morning ,,, the door > locks > > > were working but not the back … I tried it again when I got home from > work > > > , after the third or forth try it started to work , I decided to clean > the > > > beast out while I had the time … with the back doors open and the > front > > > ones closed , every now and then the lock switches would activate on > their > > > own … > > > it’s got me …. oh yes , this one is a 98 AWD …. > > > — > > > > I’m having trouble identifying what could have happened. I have left > these > > > doors > > > > open on my 1995 with no noticeable effect. > > > > I assume you have checked the fuses and circuit breaker? Somehow you > have > > > lost > > > > power to the locks. The controlling relay is tucked up between the > dash > > > and body > > > > to the right above the front passenger’s knee. You might try > > > troubleshooting > > > > there. > > > > But the back doors are controlled by their own separate switch system. > The > > > > factory shop manual has a whole section entitled "Lockout Procedure". > It > > > > consists of removing the interior liftgate garnish and actuating the > latch > > > with > > > > a screwdriver. Doesn’t look like fun. I’d spend some effort trying to > > > activate > > > > the electrical systems first.. (Page 10A1-59 in the 1995 Shop Manual.) > > > > Myron E. Wiliams > > > > > Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left > the > > > pass > > > > > and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it > , > > > the > > > > > power door locks no longer work. > > > > > I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,, > > > any > > > > > help appreciated ,, > > > > > thanks in advance > > > > > —

Response:

Yes I have remote start .. locks … the only way I can get the back door to open is using the key … I’ve had some time to play with it … sometimes the upper door will open , but the bottom door stay locked  but I am wondering if there are wires under the carpet ,  I agree it seems to point toward a short … — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the beast have Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)? Or are you just pushing the door > switches and using the key in the rear? > I’m assuming the ‘98 is very similar to my ‘95. Sure don’t see anything in that > wiring diagram that would cause self-activation UNLESS you have a chafed wire > intermittently grounding. > Back to the original question: does it have RKE? Maybe I can sniff out what wire > to look for. I love a challenge. > Myron E. Williams > Thanks for your help .. My wife went out in the morning ,,, the door locks > were working but not the back … I tried it again when I got home from work > , after the third or forth try it started to work , I decided to clean the > beast out while I had the time … with the back doors open and the front > ones closed , every now and then the lock switches would activate on their > own … > it’s got me …. oh yes , this one is a 98 AWD …. > — > > I’m having trouble identifying what could have happened. I have left these > doors > > open on my 1995 with no noticeable effect. > > I assume you have checked the fuses and circuit breaker? Somehow you have > lost > > power to the locks. The controlling relay is tucked up between the dash > and body > > to the right above the front passenger’s knee. You might try > troubleshooting > > there. > > But the back doors are controlled by their own separate switch system. The > > factory shop manual has a whole section entitled "Lockout Procedure". It > > consists of removing the interior liftgate garnish and actuating the latch > with > > a screwdriver. Doesn’t look like fun. I’d spend some effort trying to > activate > > the electrical systems first.. (Page 10A1-59 in the 1995 Shop Manual.) > > Myron E. Wiliams > > > Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left the > pass > > > and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it , > the > > > power door locks no longer work. > > > I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,, > any > > > help appreciated ,, > > > thanks in advance > > > —

Response:

I do not have remote starting. My factory shop manual doesn’t even show it. Maybe it wasn’t offered in 1995? So bear in mind the models are different and mine is not equipped with remote starter. Other than that I would expect them to be very similar. What I am writing is based on my observation of the 1995 model and the 1995 shop manual. You say, "… sometimes the upper door will open , but the bottom door stay locked." There is an actuator in the liftgate and another in the lower righthand door. Sounds like the latter is failing intermittently.   Or the power lead to it is broken. (Inside the insulation, so it sometimes makes the circuit, sometimes doesn’t.)   Does it show this behavior from the instrument panel switch as well as the lock in the back door? The IP switch and the RKE units should work ONLY when the shifter is in PARK or NEUTRAL. First step: find and check the 30 amp circuit breaker. Should be in the "convenience center" (What a misnomer!) labelled PWR ACC. There are probably two in your Safari. If they are both 30 amp you could swap them as a test. Best I can read the pictures in the manual the wiring harness is routed under the carpet along the driver’s door, then up beside (or through?) the pillar behind the driver and overhead to the back where it descends to the second A/C unit and on around the back roof to the right side and down to the conduit into the lower right door. If I understand your symptoms rightly, I’d start by opening that right rear door and trace power back from there. Happy hunting! Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes I have remote start .. locks … the only way I can get the back door to > open is using the key … I’ve had some time to play with it … sometimes > the upper door will open , but the bottom door stay locked  but I am > wondering if there are wires under the carpet ,  I agree it seems to point > toward a short … > — > Does the beast have Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)? Or are you just pushing > the door > switches and using the key in the rear? > I’m assuming the ‘98 is very similar to my ‘95. Sure don’t see anything in > that > wiring diagram that would cause self-activation UNLESS you have a chafed > wire > intermittently grounding. > Back to the original question: does it have RKE? Maybe I can sniff out > what wire > to look for. I love a challenge. > Myron E. Williams > > Thanks for your help .. My wife went out in the morning ,,, the door > locks > > were working but not the back … I tried it again when I got home from > work > > , after the third or forth try it started to work , I decided to clean > the > > beast out while I had the time … with the back doors open and the > front > > ones closed , every now and then the lock switches would activate on > their > > own … > > it’s got me …. oh yes , this one is a 98 AWD …. > > — > > > I’m having trouble identifying what could have happened. I have left > these > > doors > > > open on my 1995 with no noticeable effect. > > > I assume you have checked the fuses and circuit breaker? Somehow you > have > > lost > > > power to the locks. The controlling relay is tucked up between the > dash > > and body > > > to the right above the front passenger’s knee. You might try > > troubleshooting > > > there. > > > But the back doors are controlled by their own separate switch system. > The > > > factory shop manual has a whole section entitled "Lockout Procedure". > It > > > consists of removing the interior liftgate garnish and actuating the > latch > > with > > > a screwdriver. Doesn’t look like fun. I’d spend some effort trying to > > activate > > > the electrical systems first.. (Page 10A1-59 in the 1995 Shop Manual.) > > > Myron E. Wiliams > > > > Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left > the > > pass > > > > and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it > , > > the > > > > power door locks no longer work. > > > > I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,, > > any > > > > help appreciated ,, > > > > thanks in advance > > > > —

Response:

Thanks for your help .. My wife went out in the morning ,,, the door locks were working but not the back … I tried it again when I got home from work , after the third or forth try it started to work , I decided to clean the beast out while I had the time … with the back doors open and the front ones closed , every now and then the lock switches would activate on their own … it’s got me …. oh yes , this one is a 98 AWD …. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m having trouble identifying what could have happened. I have left these doors > open on my 1995 with no noticeable effect. > I assume you have checked the fuses and circuit breaker? Somehow you have lost > power to the locks. The controlling relay is tucked up between the dash and body > to the right above the front passenger’s knee. You might try troubleshooting > there. > But the back doors are controlled by their own separate switch system. The > factory shop manual has a whole section entitled "Lockout Procedure". It > consists of removing the interior liftgate garnish and actuating the latch with > a screwdriver. Doesn’t look like fun. I’d spend some effort trying to activate > the electrical systems first.. (Page 10A1-59 in the 1995 Shop Manual.) > Myron E. Wiliams > Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left the pass > and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it , the > power door locks no longer work. > I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,, any > help appreciated ,, > thanks in advance > —

Response:

Does the beast have Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)? Or are you just pushing the door switches and using the key in the rear? I’m assuming the ‘98 is very similar to my ‘95. Sure don’t see anything in that wiring diagram that would cause self-activation UNLESS you have a chafed wire intermittently grounding. Back to the original question: does it have RKE? Maybe I can sniff out what wire to look for. I love a challenge. Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for your help .. My wife went out in the morning ,,, the door locks > were working but not the back … I tried it again when I got home from work > , after the third or forth try it started to work , I decided to clean the > beast out while I had the time … with the back doors open and the front > ones closed , every now and then the lock switches would activate on their > own … > it’s got me …. oh yes , this one is a 98 AWD …. > — > I’m having trouble identifying what could have happened. I have left these > doors > open on my 1995 with no noticeable effect. > I assume you have checked the fuses and circuit breaker? Somehow you have > lost > power to the locks. The controlling relay is tucked up between the dash > and body > to the right above the front passenger’s knee. You might try > troubleshooting > there. > But the back doors are controlled by their own separate switch system. The > factory shop manual has a whole section entitled "Lockout Procedure". It > consists of removing the interior liftgate garnish and actuating the latch > with > a screwdriver. Doesn’t look like fun. I’d spend some effort trying to > activate > the electrical systems first.. (Page 10A1-59 in the 1995 Shop Manual.) > Myron E. Wiliams > > Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left the > pass > > and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it , > the > > power door locks no longer work. > > I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,, > any > > help appreciated ,, > > thanks in advance > > —

Response:

Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left the pass and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it , the power door locks no longer work. I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,,  any help appreciated ,, thanks in advance —

Response:

I’m having trouble identifying what could have happened. I have left these doors open on my 1995 with no noticeable effect. I assume you have checked the fuses and circuit breaker? Somehow you have lost power to the locks. The controlling relay is tucked up between the dash and body to the right above the front passenger’s knee. You might try troubleshooting there. But the back doors are controlled by their own separate switch system. The factory shop manual has a whole section entitled "Lockout Procedure". It consists of removing the interior liftgate garnish and actuating the latch with a screwdriver. Doesn’t look like fun. I’d spend some effort trying to activate the electrical systems first.. (Page 10A1-59 in the 1995 Shop Manual.) Myron E. Wiliams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Gooday all … my two daughters were in our gmc safari van … left the pass > and upper rear doors open  ….. for a few hours … when I found it , the > power door locks no longer work. > I closed the back door .. it’s locked and won’t open  …aggghhh ,,,  any > help appreciated ,, > thanks in advance > —

Response: