What is it worth?

Question:

Well because I have 4 vehicles and 1/2 of them are of the same style. People are freaky about their Blazer’s, that’s what makes them collectable. Why are spoons collectable, thimbles, underwear, toothbrushes, etc? Cuz ‘der be freeks. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ok, that’s fine and dandy. But what makes this truck a "GENUINE collector’s > vehicle"? Your words not mine. Of course it’s only worth what someone will > pay for it, That doesn’t make an ‘84 K5 a collector’s vehicle. I’m just > curious why you say that is all. > Let’s put it this way. I regligeously follow the postings on eBay, and > look at more pictures of K5’s then naked women. I’m not the only freak > out there. Whenever you are selling something, it is ONLY worth what > someone is willing to pay for it. It’s not sticker price, it’s not > invoice, it’s not anything like that. If you find the right market, > you can make the $$$$. > ~TLGM/KJ > A professional broker. > > Yes, > > That would be nice to know.  Although it is a nice Blazer, I have only > > thought the interesting part about the truck is that it was set up from > the > > factory to do snow plowing, but how many other trucks were done the same > > way? If it was an earlier one maybe, but 84, I don’t see the > > collecterbility. > > Good question. > > Wiz. > > > Just curious as to how you think this warrants collectors status? An > ‘84 > >  K5? > > > > You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ > >  lady, > > > > hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I > >  paid > > > > $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 > GMC > > > > Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, > power > > > > brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new > alternator, > >  new > > > > starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean > >  interior, > > > > 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, > 110000 > > > > miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was > >  rusty, > > > > driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve > had > >  it > > > > for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) > to > >  be > > > > A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay > for > >  it. > > > > THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt > >  this > > > > truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! > > > > http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg > > > > ~KJ~ > > > > > I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. > > > > >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow > for > >  one > > > > > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up > with > >  heavy > > > > > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, > and > >  no > > > > > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > > > > > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, > which > >  are > > > > > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back > fiberglass > >  cover > > > > > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet > and > > > > > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. > Has > >  never > > > > > towed anything, no tow hitch. > > > > > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I > >  have > > > > > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now > has > >  about > > > > > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts > retained. I > > > > > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back > about > >  2 > > > > > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on > >  Ultra > >  5 > > > > > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > > > > > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less > >  sensors > > > > > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > > > > > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but > >  looks > > > > > great. > > > > > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to > >  concentrate > >  on > > > > > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > > > > > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > > > > > Thanks for any input. > > > > > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > > > > > Wiz.

Response:

Ok, that’s fine and dandy. But what makes this truck a "GENUINE collector’s vehicle"? Your words not mine. Of course it’s only worth what someone will pay for it, That doesn’t make an ‘84 K5 a collector’s vehicle. I’m just curious why you say that is all.

> Let’s put it this way. I regligeously follow the postings on eBay, and > look at more pictures of K5’s then naked women. I’m not the only freak > out there. Whenever you are selling something, it is ONLY worth what > someone is willing to pay for it. It’s not sticker price, it’s not > invoice, it’s not anything like that. If you find the right market, > you can make the $$$$. > ~TLGM/KJ > A professional broker.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes, > That would be nice to know.  Although it is a nice Blazer, I have only > thought the interesting part about the truck is that it was set up from the > factory to do snow plowing, but how many other trucks were done the same > way? If it was an earlier one maybe, but 84, I don’t see the > collecterbility. > Good question. > Wiz. > > Just curious as to how you think this warrants collectors status? An ‘84 >  K5? > > > You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ >  lady, > > > hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I >  paid > > > $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 GMC > > > Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, power > > > brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new alternator, >  new > > > starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean >  interior, > > > 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, 110000 > > > miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was >  rusty, > > > driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve had >  it > > > for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) to >  be > > > A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay for >  it. > > > THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt >  this > > > truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! > > > http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg > > > ~KJ~ > > > > I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. > > > >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for >  one > > > > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with >  heavy > > > > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and >  no > > > > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > > > > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which >  are > > > > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass >  cover > > > > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > > > > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has >  never > > > > towed anything, no tow hitch. > > > > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I >  have > > > > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has >  about > > > > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > > > > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about >  2 > > > > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on >  Ultra >  5 > > > > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > > > > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less >  sensors > > > > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > > > > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but >  looks > > > > great. > > > > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to >  concentrate >  on > > > > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > > > > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > > > > Thanks for any input. > > > > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > > > > Wiz.

Response:

Let’s put it this way. I regligeously follow the postings on eBay, and look at more pictures of K5’s then naked women. I’m not the only freak out there. Whenever you are selling something, it is ONLY worth what someone is willing to pay for it. It’s not sticker price, it’s not invoice, it’s not anything like that. If you find the right market, you can make the $$$$. ~TLGM/KJ A professional broker. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes, > That would be nice to know.  Although it is a nice Blazer, I have only > thought the interesting part about the truck is that it was set up from the > factory to do snow plowing, but how many other trucks were done the same > way? If it was an earlier one maybe, but 84, I don’t see the > collecterbility. > Good question. > Wiz. > Just curious as to how you think this warrants collectors status? An ‘84 >  K5? > > You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ >  lady, > > hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I >  paid > > $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 GMC > > Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, power > > brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new alternator, >  new > > starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean >  interior, > > 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, 110000 > > miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was >  rusty, > > driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve had >  it > > for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) to >  be > > A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay for >  it. > > THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt >  this > > truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! > > http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg > > ~KJ~ > > > I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. > > >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for >  one > > > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with >  heavy > > > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and >  no > > > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > > > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which >  are > > > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass >  cover > > > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > > > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has >  never > > > towed anything, no tow hitch. > > > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I >  have > > > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has >  about > > > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > > > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about >  2 > > > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on >  Ultra >  5 > > > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > > > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less >  sensors > > > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > > > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but >  looks > > > great. > > > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to >  concentrate >  on > > > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > > > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > > > Thanks for any input. > > > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > > > Wiz.

Response:

Yes, That would be nice to know.  Although it is a nice Blazer, I have only thought the interesting part about the truck is that it was set up from the factory to do snow plowing, but how many other trucks were done the same way? If it was an earlier one maybe, but 84, I don’t see the collecterbility. Good question. Wiz.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just curious as to how you think this warrants collectors status? An ‘84 K5? > You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ lady, > hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I paid > $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 GMC > Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, power > brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new alternator, new > starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean > interior, > 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, 110000 > miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was > rusty, > driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve had > it > for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) to be > A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay for it. > THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt this > truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! > http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg > ~KJ~ > > I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. > >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for > one > > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with > heavy > > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and > no > > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which are > > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass > cover > > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has > never > > towed anything, no tow hitch. > > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I have > > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has > about > > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about 2 > > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on Ultra > 5 > > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less sensors > > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but looks > > great. > > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to > concentrate > on > > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > > Thanks for any input. > > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > > Wiz.

Response:

Just curious as to how you think this warrants collectors status? An ‘84 K5?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ lady, > hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I paid > $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 GMC > Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, power > brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new alternator, new > starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean interior, > 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, 110000 > miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was rusty, > driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve had it > for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) to be > A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay for it. > THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt this > truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! > http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg > ~KJ~ > I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for one > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with heavy > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and no > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which are > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass > cover > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has never > towed anything, no tow hitch. > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I have > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has about > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about 2 > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on Ultra 5 > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less sensors > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but looks > great. > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to concentrate > on > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > Thanks for any input. > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > Wiz.

Response:

Thanks KJ, I might have a buyer for 4K. He approached me as I was telling a friend that I had to sell it. Time will Tell, Wiz.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ lady, > hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I paid > $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 GMC > Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, power > brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new alternator, new > starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean interior, > 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, 110000 > miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was rusty, > driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve had it > for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) to be > A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay for it. > THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt this > truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! > http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg > ~KJ~ > I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for one > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with heavy > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and no > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which are > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass > cover > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has never > towed anything, no tow hitch. > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I have > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has about > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about 2 > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on Ultra 5 > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less sensors > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but looks > great. > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to concentrate > on > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > Thanks for any input. > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > Wiz.

Response:

well, what I would do is go to kelly blue book’s site (or something similiar), take into account what the going rate for that blazer is worth, and if it is kept well, and has more than it came from the factory with, I’d say, on average, ask maybe 1000 or 1500 more depending on its condition Im not a professional appraiser, Im just a lowly ole’ mechanic Jason

Response:

You have a GENUINE collector’s vehicle there. Depending on the lil’ lady, hold onto it for the price YOU want. About 1 and a half months ago I paid $4300 (down from 5k) for (what I believe to be) an exceptional 1990 GMC Jimmy. Power windows, power gate, power mirrors, power steering, power brakes, vanity mirror passenger side, virgin hardtop, new alternator, new starter, new oil pan [rust bubble seeping oil], clean clean clean interior, 4×4, warn premium locking hubs, fresh paint, 1 month old tranny, 110000 miles. Things wrong that I noticed at time of purchase: tail pan was rusty, driver’s door doesn’t close without ‘gentle’ slamming. Now that I’ve had it for a while, it needs about $350 (largest chunk being the tail pan) to be A++ mint. Now there is no way I can honestly say I didn’t over pay for it. THE highest I could get KBB to say it’s worth is like 3.3k… I felt this truck to me was worth 3.7k to 3.8k, but I get what I want! http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_01.jpg to 07.jpg ~KJ~ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for one > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with heavy > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and no > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which are > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass cover > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has never > towed anything, no tow hitch. > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I have > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has about > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about 2 > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on Ultra 5 > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less sensors > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but looks > great. > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to concentrate on > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > Thanks for any input. > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > Wiz.

Response:

I see some really nice early 80 Blazers every week at the auction. What they go for at the auction doesn’t matter but most that buy the nice ones retail them for $2000-$2500, with the very best retailing up to $3000 and very occasionally $3500. No rust, 88-92 Blazers commonly go for $2500-$4000 around here A ‘91 diesel Blazer was just sold off of a nearby used car lot for $3250. While it wasn’t perfect, it had a straight body, no dents, some faded paint, minor scratches, 155,000 miles, no rust, interior worn but serviceable seats. The dealer got it late Saturday, I looked at it on a Sunday, when the lot was closed, and returned early Monday morning to buy it as I wanted a diesel. I was two late, three people had already been there, and the first bought it. — Diamond Jim "The Old Devil Dog" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer. >  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for one > winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with heavy > duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and no > power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no > headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which are > standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass cover > has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and > interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has never > towed anything, no tow hitch. > Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I have > replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has about > 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I > replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about 2 > months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on Ultra 5 > spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. > Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less sensors > than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. > This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but looks > great. > Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to concentrate on > other vehicles, as informed by wife. > Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? > Thanks for any input. > Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. > Wiz.

Response:

I’m going to sell my daily driver 84 Full size 4×4 Blazer.  It was Originally purchased in Indiana and was used to plow snow for one winter before being brought to LA, California, so it was set up with heavy duty, quad front, suspension, heavy duty transmission with cooler, and no power options. No a/c, no power windows, no rear interior trim, no headliner. Has cruse control and power steering, power brakes, which are standard. Painted red with black roof and rear cover. Back fiberglass cover has been off only once in life of vehicle, last month. New carpet and interior looks clean and complete, no major damage or defacing. Has never towed anything, no tow hitch. Since I purchased the Blazer from the original owner 2 years ago I have replaced the 305 with a rebuilt 350 from a 1973 Monte Carlo, now has about 40k miles on it, long motor only, all other original parts retained. I replaced the exhaust with a 3" Magnaflow from the manifolds back about 2 months ago. New, 2 weeks old, 33×12.5×15 Yokohama Geolander 2s on Ultra 5 spoke alloys. Rebuilt Rochester Q-jet carb, this week. Passed smog last month, this is a federal vehicle so has 12 less sensors than Californian Blazers. Also had the auto serviced 6 weeks ago. This is a great, simple, clean, 4×4. No pretence. Not perfect, but looks great. Have spent too much time and money on this Blazer and need to concentrate on other vehicles, as informed by wife. Any Idea what I should be asking for the Blazer? Thanks for any input. Can get some photos if this would make pricing easier. Wiz.

Response:

'88 GMC Suburban…

Question:

No I’m wondering what you want a Burban for. Mudding, pushing snow, daily driver. Like I said my 85′ is for sale, and at the price I am hoping to sell for, a TBI conversion wouldn’t be an impossible expense. It depends on what you want the Blazer/Jimmy/Burban for what amount of rust is acceptable. ~KJ~

>    I don’t have it yet! I am looking at getting it. Somewhere in the

$800-$1000 range! Do ya think its a good > deal? It has got some Midwest cancer, but not too bad and definitely fixable!

> | What do you want this truck for? > | > | ~KJ~ > | > | >    Thanx…I was real close! lol > | > > | > > | >

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > | > | > | > | >:| Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range…The body is rough, but not shot! > | > | >:| > | > | >:|I am gonna sound like an idiot, but would you decipher the > | abbreviations for me, please Doc? I know a few > | > of > | > | >:|’em, but just do ‘em all if you would… > | > | >:| > | > | >:|            Thanx > | > | >:| > | > | >:| > | > | >:|| > | > | >:|| >    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some > | input on a > | > | >:|| couple things… > | > | >:|| > > | > | >:|| > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a > | quarter inch of > | > | >:|| throttle pedal to it while cranking > | > | >:|| > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? > | > | >:|| > | > | >:|| The ECM > | > | > | > | Engine Control Module > | > | > | > | > | > | > | > | >:|ignores TPS > | > | > | > | Throttle Position Sensor > | > | > | > | >:| signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave > | > | >:|| it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air > | during > | > | >:|| cranking.  I’d check the IAC > | > | > | > | Idle Air Control > | > | > | > | >:|pintle when you turn the key to run to make > | > | >:|| sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR > | > | > | > | Fuel Pressure Regulator > | > | > | > | > | > | HTH, > | > | Bret > | > > | > > | > |

Response:

   I don’t have it yet! I am looking at getting it. Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range! Do ya think its a good deal? It has got some Midwest cancer, but not too bad and definitely fixable!

| What do you want this truck for? | | ~KJ~ |

| >    Thanx…I was real close! lol | > | > | >

| > | | > | >:| Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range…The body is rough, but not shot! | > | >:| | > | >:|I am gonna sound like an idiot, but would you decipher the | abbreviations for me, please Doc? I know a few | > of | > | >:|’em, but just do ‘em all if you would… | > | >:| | > | >:|            Thanx | > | >:| | > | >:| | > | >:|| | > | >:|| >    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some | input on a | > | >:|| couple things… | > | >:|| > | > | >:|| > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a | quarter inch of | > | >:|| throttle pedal to it while cranking | > | >:|| > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? | > | >:|| | > | >:|| The ECM | > | | > | Engine Control Module | > | | > | | > | | > | >:|ignores TPS | > | | > | Throttle Position Sensor | > | | > | >:| signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave | > | >:|| it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air | during | > | >:|| cranking.  I’d check the IAC | > | | > | Idle Air Control | > | | > | >:|pintle when you turn the key to run to make | > | >:|| sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR | > | | > | Fuel Pressure Regulator | > | | > | | > | HTH, | > | Bret | > | > | |

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:| Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range…The body is rough, but not shot! >:| >:|I am gonna sound like an idiot, but would you decipher the abbreviations for me, please Doc? I know a few of >:|’em, but just do ‘em all if you would… >:| >:|            Thanx >:| >:| >:|| >:|| >    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a >:|| couple things… >:|| > >:|| > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of >:|| throttle pedal to it while cranking >:|| > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? >:|| >:|| The ECM

Engine Control Module >:|ignores TPS

Throttle Position Sensor >:| signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave >:|| it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air during >:|| cranking.  I’d check the IAC

Idle Air Control >:|pintle when you turn the key to run to make >:|| sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR

Fuel Pressure Regulator HTH, Bret

Response:

   Thanx…I was real close! lol

| | >:| Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range…The body is rough, but not shot! | >:| | >:|I am gonna sound like an idiot, but would you decipher the abbreviations for me, please Doc? I know a few of | >:|’em, but just do ‘em all if you would… | >:| | >:|            Thanx | >:| | >:|

| >:|| | >:|| >    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a | >:|| couple things… | >:|| > | >:|| > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of | >:|| throttle pedal to it while cranking | >:|| > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? | >:|| | >:|| The ECM | | Engine Control Module | | | | >:|ignores TPS | | Throttle Position Sensor | | >:| signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave | >:|| it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air during | >:|| cranking.  I’d check the IAC | | Idle Air Control | | >:|pintle when you turn the key to run to make | >:|| sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR | | Fuel Pressure Regulator | | | HTH, | Bret

Response:

What do you want this truck for? ~KJ~

>    Thanx…I was real close! lol

> | > | >:| Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range…The body is rough, but not shot! > | >:| > | >:|I am gonna sound like an idiot, but would you decipher the

abbreviations for me, please Doc? I know a few > of > | >:|’em, but just do ‘em all if you would… > | >:| > | >:|            Thanx > | >:| > | >:|

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | >:|| > | >:|| >    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a > | >:|| couple things… > | >:|| > > | >:|| > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of > | >:|| throttle pedal to it while cranking > | >:|| > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? > | >:|| > | >:|| The ECM > | > | Engine Control Module > | > | > | > | >:|ignores TPS > | > | Throttle Position Sensor > | > | >:| signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave > | >:|| it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air during > | >:|| cranking.  I’d check the IAC > | > | Idle Air Control > | > | >:|pintle when you turn the key to run to make > | >:|| sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR > | > | Fuel Pressure Regulator > | > | > | HTH, > | Bret

Response:

>    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a couple things… > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of

throttle pedal to it while cranking > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause???

The ECM ignores TPS signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air during cranking.  I’d check the IAC pintle when you turn the key to run to make sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR might be shot causing excessive fuel flow during cranking, OR a leaky injector is dripping into the intake after the vehicle is shut off and you need to crack the throttle to get enough air to fire the rich mixture. > When put into gear(TH700) at a stand still, it goes in fairly hard, not

harsh, but abrupt. Shifts good under > light, part, or full throttle. Kicks down fine. Fluid is good!  Whets the

best guess? Likely caused by the high idle as stated below.  The higher the RPM the harder she’ll dump into gear. > Idles pretty high. No tach but I would estimate 1000-1200 RPM. Could this

be caused by the same thing causing > the first issue which in turn is causing the second?

Could be the rich mixture as stated above causing the high idle.  IAC, CTS, FPR come to mind. > NP208 or NP241?

Not a clue. >    BTW, just under 180K on it!

She’s a baby! >    Do ya need to know anything else?

How much $$$ they looking for?  Body in good shape? Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

1988 and up is NP241 stock. I believe that the NP208 is directly interchangeable so if it torched, and they had one laying around…. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a > couple things… > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of > throttle pedal to it while cranking > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? > The ECM ignores TPS signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave > it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air during > cranking.  I’d check the IAC pintle when you turn the key to run to make > sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR might be shot causing > excessive fuel flow during cranking, OR a leaky injector is dripping into > the intake after the vehicle is shut off and you need to crack the throttle > to get enough air to fire the rich mixture. > When put into gear(TH700) at a stand still, it goes in fairly hard, not > harsh, but abrupt. Shifts good under > light, part, or full throttle. Kicks down fine. Fluid is good!  Whets the > best guess? > Likely caused by the high idle as stated below.  The higher the RPM the > harder she’ll dump into gear. > Idles pretty high. No tach but I would estimate 1000-1200 RPM. Could this > be caused by the same thing causing > the first issue which in turn is causing the second? > Could be the rich mixture as stated above causing the high idle.  IAC, CTS, > FPR come to mind. > NP208 or NP241? > Not a clue. >    BTW, just under 180K on it! > She’s a baby! >    Do ya need to know anything else? > How much $$$ they looking for?  Body in good shape? > Doc

Response:

 Somewhere in the $800-$1000 range…The body is rough, but not shot! I am gonna sound like an idiot, but would you decipher the abbreviations for me, please Doc? I know a few of ‘em, but just do ‘em all if you would…             Thanx

|

| >    I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a | couple things… | > | > When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of | throttle pedal to it while cranking | > and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? | | The ECM ignores TPS signal when cranking, so cracking the throttle just gave | it more air, not more fuel.  So, too much fuel or not enough air during | cranking.  I’d check the IAC pintle when you turn the key to run to make | sure it’s actually retracting.  Other than that, FPR might be shot causing | excessive fuel flow during cranking, OR a leaky injector is dripping into | the intake after the vehicle is shut off and you need to crack the throttle | to get enough air to fire the rich mixture. | | | > When put into gear(TH700) at a stand still, it goes in fairly hard, not | harsh, but abrupt. Shifts good under | > light, part, or full throttle. Kicks down fine. Fluid is good!  Whets the | best guess? | | Likely caused by the high idle as stated below.  The higher the RPM the | harder she’ll dump into gear. | | > Idles pretty high. No tach but I would estimate 1000-1200 RPM. Could this | be caused by the same thing causing | > the first issue which in turn is causing the second? | | Could be the rich mixture as stated above causing the high idle.  IAC, CTS, | FPR come to mind. | | > NP208 or NP241? | | Not a clue. | | >    BTW, just under 180K on it! | | She’s a baby! | | > | >    Do ya need to know anything else? | | How much $$$ they looking for?  Body in good shape? | | Doc | | > | > | > | > | > | |

Response:

   I test drove an ‘88 GMC Suburban today and want to get some input on a couple things… When turning it over, it would halfway fire. I put MAYBE a quarter inch of throttle pedal to it while cranking and it fired right away. What is the most likely cause??? When put into gear(TH700) at a stand still, it goes in fairly hard, not harsh, but abrupt. Shifts good under light, part, or full throttle. Kicks down fine. Fluid is good!  Whets the best guess? Idles pretty high. No tach but I would estimate 1000-1200 RPM. Could this be caused by the same thing causing the first issue which in turn is causing the second? NP208 or NP241?    BTW, just under 180K on it!    Do ya need to know anything else?

Response:

1990 GMC Jimmy Auto – Move shifter.

Question:

Garry, how would you suggest getting my shifting capabilities on the floor with a TH700R4? Not so much a shift kit, but if that’s the only way… Just want something more like a manual. ~KJ~

Response:

www.jegs.com I stutter sometimes, sorry…lol

| Garry, how would you suggest getting my shifting capabilities on the floor | with a TH700R4? | Not so much a shift kit, but if that’s the only way… Just want something | more like a manual. | | ~KJ~ | |

Response:

Looking there for the shift kits & what not – because I couldn’t find any gauges I liked. ~KJ~

> www.jegs.com > I stutter sometimes, sorry…lol

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | Garry, how would you suggest getting my shifting capabilities on the floor > | with a TH700R4? > | Not so much a shift kit, but if that’s the only way… Just want something > | more like a manual. > | > | ~KJ~ > | > |

Response:

Suburban gas to diesel conversion???

Question:

> I was told that it was rebuilt within the last few months and I just want to > keep it as healthy as possible. I don’t have a cooler on it yet, but I saved > your article on how to route it (I don’t think I’ll go as far as brand > specific wire ties and hose clamps) and plan to do so soon. (Maybe even > tonight, seeing as I have some new-found cash available that I had saved for > taxe$…)

e-mail if you need any info

Response:

I wish I could take it back, but their out of business now … I wonder why? Thanks, Andrew

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wow! > Mark, I had no idea! I think I might just sell the one I have and buy a > diesel. It’s just that I have gone through this Suburban (mechanically) > through out. She is very sound. The reason I am changing the engine is > that > she burns way too much oil … two quarts a 40 gallon tank! The engine > only > has approximately 30K since a rebuild. Plus she gets horrible gas mileage > … 5-6 a gallon. > I’m sorry it is not a complicated conversion but is more then a drop and go > situation.  You have to look more into your set-up like: is your speedo a > quartz set-up, is your trans electronic and so on…  I think my 91 was the > first year to use the 4L80E, you may have the good old fashion 700R4 with > the shift cable and a mechanical speedo.  If so then it would be a minor > trans modification and the brake power boost modification and you could just > disconnect the computer.  Take the engine back to the shop that rebuilt it 2 > qts per 300 miles is an issue.  It sounds like they did not hone the > cylinder bores before they rebuilt the engine (been there done that, once) > or the rings did not set. > good luck, > mark

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 700R4 was used into model year 93 > 4L60E was first used in 93 > so there was some overlap in 1993 same > the valve body on the 60E is aluminum, cast iron on 700R4 > 700 uses a governor to control shift points and a throttle cable to control > line pressure, upshift scheduling, and downshift at throttle opening; the > 60E uses electronic controls throughout > torque converter remained the same thru 97, in 98 converter clutch lining > went to a woven-fiber material, and the ECM caused a regulated amount of > slip upon > TCC application > durability of the gear train is similar, as gear train has remained the same > since 1982; 60E’s suffer from a weak area where the sun shell splines onto > the rear sun gear, also the valve body is subject to wear in the torque > converter regulator valve bore, and the actuator feed limit valve bore > additionally, 97 full-size trucks have a wiring concern at the ECM, a bad > ground inside the ECM will cause no or slow pressure rise upon throttle > opening, which will cause a failure: a wiring harness modification is > available to correct this problem > some 700’s suffer from inadequate pressure rise vs throttle opening, can be > corrected by increasing size of pressure regulator boost valve, also the > size of the servo piston that applies the band in 2nd gear can usually be > increased one step with no bad effects

I was told that it was rebuilt within the last few months and I just want to keep it as healthy as possible. I don’t have a cooler on it yet, but I saved your article on how to route it (I don’t think I’ll go as far as brand specific wire ties and hose clamps) and plan to do so soon. (Maybe even tonight, seeing as I have some new-found cash available that I had saved for taxe$…) ~KJ~ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What are the reliability/toughness differences between a 700R4 and a 60LE? > And which does my 1990 GMC Jimmy have? I’m guessing the 60LE….. > ~KJ~ > > change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel > > > > I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to > replace > > > the > > > > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or > 6.5 > > > liter > > > > diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > > > imho…. > > > 1. new engine mounts > > > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > > > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > > > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > > > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > > > 5. new diesel computer > > > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > > > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas > to > > > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > > > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the > HVAC > > > system > > > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > > > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power > > steering > > > pump, ac compressor ect > > > 11. add and wire a second battery > > > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > > > 13. change the exhaust system > > > 14. etc…. > > > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about > $4400 > to > > > your door.  So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the > work > > > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the > wiring > > > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > > > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas > > computer. > > > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would > be > > > the emissions issue.  I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and > go > > on > > > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing.  Keep us > > posted > > > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk > yard. > > > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > > > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with > a > > 6.5 > > > dsl. > > > Good luck, > > > mark > > > 6.5 dsl  —>  http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Response:

700R4 was used into model year 93 4L60E was first used in 93 so there was some overlap in 1993 the valve body on the 60E is aluminum, cast iron on 700R4 700 uses a governor to control shift points and a throttle cable to control line pressure, upshift scheduling, and downshift at throttle opening; the 60E uses electronic controls throughout torque converter remained the same thru 97, in 98 converter clutch lining went to a woven-fiber material, and the ECM caused a regulated amount of slip upon TCC application durability of the gear train is similar, as gear train has remained the same since 1982; 60E’s suffer from a weak area where the sun shell splines onto the rear sun gear, also the valve body is subject to wear in the torque converter regulator valve bore, and the actuator feed limit valve bore additionally, 97 full-size trucks have a wiring concern at the ECM, a bad ground inside the ECM will cause no or slow pressure rise upon throttle opening, which will cause a failure: a wiring harness modification is available to correct this problem some 700’s suffer from inadequate pressure rise vs throttle opening, can be corrected by increasing size of pressure regulator boost valve, also the size of the servo piston that applies the band in 2nd gear can usually be increased one step with no bad effects

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What are the reliability/toughness differences between a 700R4 and a 60LE? > And which does my 1990 GMC Jimmy have? I’m guessing the 60LE….. > ~KJ~ > change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel > > > I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to > replace > > the > > > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > > liter > > > diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > > imho…. > > 1. new engine mounts > > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > > 5. new diesel computer > > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > > system > > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power > steering > > pump, ac compressor ect > > 11. add and wire a second battery > > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > > 13. change the exhaust system > > 14. etc…. > > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 > to > > your door.  So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the > work > > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas > computer. > > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would > be > > the emissions issue.  I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go > on > > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing.  Keep us > posted > > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a > 6.5 > > dsl. > > Good luck, > > mark > > 6.5 dsl  —>  http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Response:

What are the reliability/toughness differences between a 700R4 and a 60LE? And which does my 1990 GMC Jimmy have? I’m guessing the 60LE….. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel > > I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to replace > the > > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > liter > > diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > imho…. > 1. new engine mounts > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > 5. new diesel computer > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > system > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power > steering > pump, ac compressor ect > 11. add and wire a second battery > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > 13. change the exhaust system > 14. etc…. > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to > your door.  So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas > computer. > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be > the emissions issue.  I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go > on > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing.  Keep us > posted > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a > 6.5 > dsl. > Good luck, > mark > 6.5 dsl  —>  http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Response:

> Wow! > Mark, I had no idea! I think I might just sell the one I have and buy a > diesel. It’s just that I have gone through this Suburban (mechanically) > through out. She is very sound. The reason I am changing the engine is that > she burns way too much oil … two quarts a 40 gallon tank! The engine only > has approximately 30K since a rebuild. Plus she gets horrible gas mileage > … 5-6 a gallon.

I’m sorry it is not a complicated conversion but is more then a drop and go situation.  You have to look more into your set-up like: is your speedo a quartz set-up, is your trans electronic and so on…  I think my 91 was the first year to use the 4L80E, you may have the good old fashion 700R4 with the shift cable and a mechanical speedo.  If so then it would be a minor trans modification and the brake power boost modification and you could just disconnect the computer.  Take the engine back to the shop that rebuilt it 2 qts per 300 miles is an issue.  It sounds like they did not hone the cylinder bores before they rebuilt the engine (been there done that, once) or the rings did not set. good luck, mark

Response:

change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to replace > the > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > liter > diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > imho…. > 1. new engine mounts > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > 5. new diesel computer > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > system > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power steering > pump, ac compressor ect > 11. add and wire a second battery > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > 13. change the exhaust system > 14. etc…. > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to > your door.  So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas computer. > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be > the emissions issue.  I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go on > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing.  Keep us posted > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a 6.5 > dsl. > Good luck, > mark > 6.5 dsl  —>  http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Response:

Wow! Mark, I had no idea! I think I might just sell the one I have and buy a diesel. It’s just that I have gone through this Suburban (mechanically) through out. She is very sound. The reason I am changing the engine is that she burns way too much oil … two quarts a 40 gallon tank! The engine only has approximately 30K since a rebuild. Plus she gets horrible gas mileage … 5-6 a gallon. Thanks for the input! Andrew

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to replace > the > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > liter > diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > imho…. > 1. new engine mounts > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > 5. new diesel computer > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > system > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power steering > pump, ac compressor ect > 11. add and wire a second battery > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > 13. change the exhaust system > 14. etc…. > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to > your door.  So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas computer. > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be > the emissions issue.  I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go on > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing.  Keep us posted > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a 6.5 > dsl. > Good luck, > mark > 6.5 dsl  —>  http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Response:

> I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to replace the > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 liter > diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome?

imho…. 1. new engine mounts 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) 4. re-wire engine wiring harness 5. new diesel computer 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC system 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power steering pump, ac compressor ect 11. add and wire a second battery 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump 13. change the exhaust system 14. etc…. It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to your door.  So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas computer. I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be the emissions issue.  I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go on your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing.  Keep us posted if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a 6.5 dsl. Good luck, mark 6.5 dsl  —>  http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Response:

I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454.  I am getting ready to replace the engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 liter diesel?  If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? Thanks, Andrew

Response:

1990 GMC Jimmy Continuous brake light.

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > The first thing that I would do is bleed the brakes again and make sure >  that > > the perportioning valve gets centered. That’s probably all you’ll need >  to > > do, but it’s possible that when you gave it the old panic stop the > > perportioing valve went south on ya. > > nospam > Now if I remember "centered" is with the little ‘thingy’ pushed in? And >  now > is this proportioning valve the distribution block that I am thinking of >  up > towards the front of the truck? I also can’t remember how the last guy who > had trouble with this valve determined if it was broken? > ~KJ~ > Now that would be me my good man, AFAIK I was the last one on the ng to go > though the proportioning valve hell.  The proportioning valve is likely > located just beside your master cylinder, and will be aluminum with a little > yellow electrical connector on the top of it.  That little bastard connector > is what tells the brake light to come on. > To verify it’s the prop valve sensor and not the emergency brake sensor > out-of-whack, make sure the brake light is on, and pull the yellow > connector.  If the light stays on, it’s the emergency brake sensor.

Light went out… > Lemme guess, you aggressively bled the rears with the ass end of the vehicle > jacked up right?  That’s what killed my last one.  My symptoms were ZERO > front brakes, brake light would illuminate when I smashed the pedal and then > remain on until I turned the truck off. > HTH, > Doc

No, truck stops alright. I think the rears aren’t working…. any suggestions? ~TLGM

Response:

I wouldn’t say my girl was aggressive with the brakes, but it *was* jacked up (as little as possible however, maybe 2" higher then my tires would keep it). It’s stopping just fine, so if anything it’s the rears that aren’t working. It doesn’t go away ever (there on start up), unless I engage the e-brake, and disengage. Then when I use the brakes again with any force, it comes back on…. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > The first thing that I would do is bleed the brakes again and make sure > that > > the perportioning valve gets centered. That’s probably all you’ll need > to > > do, but it’s possible that when you gave it the old panic stop the > > perportioing valve went south on ya. > > nospam > Now if I remember "centered" is with the little ‘thingy’ pushed in? And > now > is this proportioning valve the distribution block that I am thinking of > up > towards the front of the truck? I also can’t remember how the last guy who > had trouble with this valve determined if it was broken? > ~KJ~ > Now that would be me my good man, AFAIK I was the last one on the ng to go > though the proportioning valve hell.  The proportioning valve is likely > located just beside your master cylinder, and will be aluminum with a little > yellow electrical connector on the top of it.  That little bastard connector > is what tells the brake light to come on. > To verify it’s the prop valve sensor and not the emergency brake sensor > out-of-whack, make sure the brake light is on, and pull the yellow > connector.  If the light stays on, it’s the emergency brake sensor. > Lemme guess, you aggressively bled the rears with the ass end of the vehicle > jacked up right?  That’s what killed my last one.  My symptoms were ZERO > front brakes, brake light would illuminate when I smashed the pedal and then > remain on until I turned the truck off. > HTH, > Doc

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The first thing that I would do is bleed the brakes again and make sure > that > the perportioning valve gets centered. That’s probably all you’ll need to > do, but it’s possible that when you gave it the old panic stop the > perportioing valve went south on ya. > nospam > Now if I remember "centered" is with the little ‘thingy’ pushed in? And now > is this proportioning valve the distribution block that I am thinking of up > towards the front of the truck? I also can’t remember how the last guy who > had trouble with this valve determined if it was broken?

centered has nothing to do with the ‘thingy’ pushed in, the purpose of the ‘thingy-pushing-in’ is to make it easier to bleed it is centered when pressures come up equally in both systems it has a single wire coming off it

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The first thing that I would do is bleed the brakes again and make sure > that > the perportioning valve gets centered. That’s probably all you’ll need to > do, but it’s possible that when you gave it the old panic stop the > perportioing valve went south on ya. > nospam > Now if I remember "centered" is with the little ‘thingy’ pushed in? And now > is this proportioning valve the distribution block that I am thinking of up > towards the front of the truck? I also can’t remember how the last guy who > had trouble with this valve determined if it was broken? > ~KJ~

Now that would be me my good man, AFAIK I was the last one on the ng to go though the proportioning valve hell.  The proportioning valve is likely located just beside your master cylinder, and will be aluminum with a little yellow electrical connector on the top of it.  That little bastard connector is what tells the brake light to come on. To verify it’s the prop valve sensor and not the emergency brake sensor out-of-whack, make sure the brake light is on, and pull the yellow connector.  If the light stays on, it’s the emergency brake sensor. Lemme guess, you aggressively bled the rears with the ass end of the vehicle jacked up right?  That’s what killed my last one.  My symptoms were ZERO front brakes, brake light would illuminate when I smashed the pedal and then remain on until I turned the truck off. HTH, Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> The first thing that I would do is bleed the brakes again and make sure that > the perportioning valve gets centered. That’s probably all you’ll need to > do, but it’s possible that when you gave it the old panic stop the > perportioing valve went south on ya. > nospam

Now if I remember "centered" is with the little ‘thingy’ pushed in? And now is this proportioning valve the distribution block that I am thinking of up towards the front of the truck? I also can’t remember how the last guy who had trouble with this valve determined if it was broken? ~KJ~

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1990 GMC Jimmy > Disc front, drum rear. > AFAIK stock braking system. > I went through all my brakes about 2 weeks ago > 1: replaced all pads/shoes. > 2: Replaced front calipers, rear pistons. > 3: Replaced hard lines that run along rear drive shaft. > 3: Had 0 problems bleeding system, AFAIK. > Truck stops well, very well indeed. However even when I did my first "panic > stop" test when I was really after the brake the brake light came on. It > continued to turn on JUST when I was REALLY after the brake. However now it > is on all the time. > I can’t see any leaks, but I haven’t inspected the entire brake system super > close. The main reason is – I can’t see the level in the resevoir going down > at all, and it stops very well. > I can only thing it’s a bubble in the system, but if the truck thinks there > is something wrong I’d like to fix it. > ~KJ~

The first thing that I would do is bleed the brakes again and make sure that the perportioning valve gets centered. That’s probably all you’ll need to do, but it’s possible that when you gave it the old panic stop the perportioing valve went south on ya. nospam

Response:

1990 GMC Jimmy Disc front, drum rear. AFAIK stock braking system. I went through all my brakes about 2 weeks ago 1: replaced all pads/shoes. 2: Replaced front calipers, rear pistons. 3: Replaced hard lines that run along rear drive shaft. 3: Had 0 problems bleeding system, AFAIK. Truck stops well, very well indeed. However even when I did my first "panic stop" test when I was really after the brake the brake light came on. It continued to turn on JUST when I was REALLY after the brake. However now it is on all the time. I can’t see any leaks, but I haven’t inspected the entire brake system super close. The main reason is – I can’t see the level in the resevoir going down at all, and it stops very well. I can only thing it’s a bubble in the system, but if the truck thinks there is something wrong I’d like to fix it. ~KJ~

Response:

1990 GMC Jimmy No Dome Lights

Question:

> Hornet alarms tap into the dome light wire, whether ground or positive to > trigger the alarm when the doors are opened.  More than likely, they used a > quick tap, which cut the wire.  Or, if they a cheap, made attempt to remove > the insulator to wrap the wire around the line, and cut the wire.  You > should be looking for a white wire in the drivers side kick panel.

Makes sense. I will look more into this in the morning. Thank you very much for your contribution. ~TLGM

Response:

> KJ, > You need to eliminate a bad ground as the problem.  Find the hot wire coming > from the dome light (should be orange or orange w/white stripe), slice a > little insulator off, and using an alligator clip-lead apply +12V to it. > Should light right up.  If it does, you know they aren’t getting juice, then > you need to trace that hot wire all the way back to the junction block. > If it doesn’t light up, likely a bad ground or even a fried bulb socket > (highly unlikely). > Doc

Thanks for the help. I’ll be breaking out the test light/multimeter soon enough! I think now I have it licked. ~TLGM <famous last words>

Response:

Bobo, you da man. I thought I remembered reading about something like this – but didn’t know if it applied to my truck. The break was actually up ‘under’ the dash – where the floor angles up into the fire wall. But it was the orange wire! ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> pull up the left side step trim panel and repair the broken orange wire in > the harness…..kinda in the middle of the harness from the front of the > door to the rear…I have fixed these in the past and that’s where the > broken wire lays….. oops., side thought, does your truck have interior > lights under the dash??? that could change things….. > > 1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized > > Equipped with a Hornet security system. > > Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at > all. > . > > In this order, I checked for functionality… > > 1: Checked ALL fuses. > > 2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck > now > > ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. > > 3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked > > that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) > > 4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] > switch, > > even though the switch is easy enough to test. > > 5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and > white > > wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to > > ground however…. > > 6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, > unsuccessfully. > > 7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, > > gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a > wire > > spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a > quick-disconnect > > splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though > > I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome > light > > didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires > to > > see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of > course > it > > goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink > > wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become > > tiresome. > > My thoughts: > > 1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the > > previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. > > 2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to > > look. > > Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash > > back together…. > > ~KJ~ > KJ, > You need to eliminate a bad ground as the problem.  Find the hot wire > coming > from the dome light (should be orange or orange w/white stripe), slice a > little insulator off, and using an alligator clip-lead apply +12V to it. > Should light right up.  If it does, you know they aren’t getting juice, > then > you need to trace that hot wire all the way back to the junction block. > If it doesn’t light up, likely a bad ground or even a fried bulb socket > (highly unlikely). > Doc

Response:

pull up the left side step trim panel and repair the broken orange wire in the harness…..kinda in the middle of the harness from the front of the door to the rear…I have fixed these in the past and that’s where the broken wire lays….. oops., side thought, does your truck have interior lights under the dash??? that could change things…..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized > Equipped with a Hornet security system. > Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at all. > . > In this order, I checked for functionality… > 1: Checked ALL fuses. > 2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck now > ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. > 3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked > that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) > 4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] switch, > even though the switch is easy enough to test. > 5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and white > wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to > ground however…. > 6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, > unsuccessfully. > 7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, > gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a wire > spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a quick-disconnect > splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though > I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome > light > didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires to > see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of course > it > goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink > wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become > tiresome. > My thoughts: > 1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the > previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. > 2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to > look. > Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash > back together…. > ~KJ~ > KJ, > You need to eliminate a bad ground as the problem.  Find the hot wire coming > from the dome light (should be orange or orange w/white stripe), slice a > little insulator off, and using an alligator clip-lead apply +12V to it. > Should light right up.  If it does, you know they aren’t getting juice, then > you need to trace that hot wire all the way back to the junction block. > If it doesn’t light up, likely a bad ground or even a fried bulb socket > (highly unlikely). > Doc

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized > Equipped with a Hornet security system. > Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at all. . > In this order, I checked for functionality… > 1: Checked ALL fuses. > 2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck now > ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. > 3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked > that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) > 4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] switch, > even though the switch is easy enough to test. > 5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and white > wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to > ground however…. > 6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, unsuccessfully. > 7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, > gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a wire > spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a quick-disconnect > splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though > I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome light > didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires to > see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of course it > goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink > wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become > tiresome. > My thoughts: > 1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the > previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. > 2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to > look. > Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash > back together…. > ~KJ~

KJ, You need to eliminate a bad ground as the problem.  Find the hot wire coming from the dome light (should be orange or orange w/white stripe), slice a little insulator off, and using an alligator clip-lead apply +12V to it. Should light right up.  If it does, you know they aren’t getting juice, then you need to trace that hot wire all the way back to the junction block. If it doesn’t light up, likely a bad ground or even a fried bulb socket (highly unlikely). Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> Please don’t take this response as being smart alecky….but it seems > to me you have spent an awful lot of time and trouble on this problem. > Have you thought about a flashlight? > Cheers, > Autumn

Not an option. It’s worth my time to find it, I’d like my truck to be fully functional. ~TLGM – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized >Equipped with a Hornet security system. >Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at all. . >In this order, I checked for functionality… >1: Checked ALL fuses. >2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck now >:-) ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. >3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked >that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) >4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] switch, >even though the switch is easy enough to test. >5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and white >wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to >ground however…. >6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, unsuccessfully. >7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, >gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a wire >spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a quick-disconnect >splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though >I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome light >didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires to >see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of course it >goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink >wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become >tiresome. >My thoughts: >1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the >previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. >2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to >look. >Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash >back together…. >~KJ~

Response:

1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized Equipped with a Hornet security system. Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at all. . In this order, I checked for functionality… 1: Checked ALL fuses. 2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck now ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. 3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) 4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] switch, even though the switch is easy enough to test. 5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and white wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to ground however…. 6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, unsuccessfully. 7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a wire spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a quick-disconnect splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome light didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires to see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of course it goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become tiresome. My thoughts: 1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. 2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to look. Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash back together…. ~KJ~

Response:

Please don’t take this response as being smart alecky….but it seems to me you have spent an awful lot of time and trouble on this problem. Have you thought about a flashlight? Cheers, Autumn – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized >Equipped with a Hornet security system. >Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at all. . >In this order, I checked for functionality… >1: Checked ALL fuses. >2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck now >:-) ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. >3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked >that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) >4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] switch, >even though the switch is easy enough to test. >5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and white >wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to >ground however…. >6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, unsuccessfully. >7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, >gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a wire >spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a quick-disconnect >splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though >I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome light >didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires to >see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of course it >goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink >wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become >tiresome. >My thoughts: >1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the >previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. >2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to >look. >Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash >back together…. >~KJ~

Response:

Hornet alarms tap into the dome light wire, whether ground or positive to trigger the alarm when the doors are opened.  More than likely, they used a quick tap, which cut the wire.  Or, if they a cheap, made attempt to remove the insulator to wrap the wire around the line, and cut the wire.  You should be looking for a white wire in the drivers side kick panel.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Please don’t take this response as being smart alecky….but it seems > to me you have spent an awful lot of time and trouble on this problem. > Have you thought about a flashlight? > Cheers, > Autumn >1990 GMC Jimmy Full Sized >Equipped with a Hornet security system. >Dome lights do not work. Not at the switch, not at the doors, not at all. . >In this order, I checked for functionality… >1: Checked ALL fuses. >2: Replaced both the bulbs with known working [have my own parts truck now >:-) ] to eliminate dead shorts in the bulbs. >3: Checked the sockets for juice, none found. I have however not checked >that one of the leads goes to ground….(or that both do, read on) >4: Replaced the switch with a known working [hehe... parts truck] switch, >even though the switch is easy enough to test. >5: Checked the two contacts that are for the dome lights (black and white >wires) and got no current between the two of them. Both appear to go to >ground however…. >6: Tried to follow the wires with the dash partially apart, unsuccessfully. >7: Pulled the dash completely apart (nothing there any more, no cluster, >gear indicator….) to make it easier to follow the wire. There is a wire >spliced into the BLACK wire (very professionally, with a quick-disconnect >splicer thingy). I thought maybe this was a mistaken ground (even though >I’ve had no battery drain problems) and disconnected it, and the dome light >didn’t work still. I didn’t however individually check these two wires to >see if they would go to ground. I tried to follow the wire, but of course it >goes into shrink wrap, and then into a larger cluster or wires shrink >wrapped. I could probably follow it, but it’s late and already become >tiresome. >My thoughts: >1: The people who installed the alarm system messed this up, and the >previous owner was never able to get it fixed by them. >2: Some wire is chafed that I don’t know about, and don’t know where to >look. >Anyone have any thoughts as to where I can look? I’d like to get my dash >back together…. >~KJ~

Response:

Tell me what's wrong, PLEASE

Question:

Re: Tell me what’s wrong, PLEASE   PETE AT LEAST FRIKKEN PUT IN A COUPLE CARRIAGE RETURNS WHEN YOU POST IF YOU REFUSE TO MARK WHO YOUR REPLYING ~KJ~ <starting to get miffed> WAAAAAAAAA

Response:

Thank you ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Re: Tell me what’s wrong, PLEASE > PETE AT LEAST FRIKKEN PUT IN A COUPLE CARRIAGE RETURNS WHEN YOU POST IF > YOU REFUSE TO MARK WHO YOUR REPLYING > ~KJ~ > <starting to get miffed> > WAAAAAAAAA

Response:

PETE AT LEAST FRIKKEN PUT IN A COUPLE CARRIAGE RETURNS WHEN YOU POST IF YOU REFUSE TO MARK WHO YOUR REPLYING ~KJ~ <starting to get miffed>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Re: Tell me what’s wrong, PLEASE > He said the wires are new – and if he routed them ok… If it’s a > misfiring thing it still could be the cap & rotor. At 107K mi that’s a > fair age for that part – just like the plugs and wires, > especially since pulling off the old wires (if stuck) can crack them. > Elliott > you have a bad plug wire. you were only feeling it in tcc lockup, which > your trans mission was shifting in and out of. the plug wire is a > problem. the tcc is a fact of life > the post i read said new PLUGS. did i miss something?

Response:

Btw, the tranny would shift to go for a passing gear, but alas…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m only throwing this out there from personal experience with my 98 > Silverado. You symptoms are what I was going through and even the mechanic > that drove thought it was the trans. He said take it easy and baby it, > becaus it’d only happen when I accelerated. RPM’s went up, and I went > nowhere. After about three months of this, it finally started bucking and I > barely made it to the mechanic. I couldn’t go over 30 and it got worse as I > drove. When I got there they tried to start it and found out that there was > no gas pressure. Dead gas pump was the trouble. > On a fluke, that one went bad after a couple of months and it was replaced > for free. It’s a Delco btw, no problems imo. No problems since and it’s > probably been over 18 months. > Just throwing it out there, you would have swore it was the tranny. Engine > revved and rps went up but not the truck, lol. > Good luck.

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Response:

Re: Tell me what’s wrong, PLEASE   He said the wires are new – and if he routed them ok… If it’s a misfiring thing it still could be the cap & rotor. At 107K mi that’s a fair age for that part – just like the plugs and wires, especially since pulling off the old wires (if stuck) can crack them. Elliott

you have a bad plug wire. you were only feeling it in tcc lockup, which your trans mission was shifting in and out of. the plug wire is a problem. the tcc is a fact of life the post i read said new PLUGS. did i miss something?

Response:

I’m only throwing this out there from personal experience with my 98 Silverado. You symptoms are what I was going through and even the mechanic that drove thought it was the trans. He said take it easy and baby it, becaus it’d only happen when I accelerated. RPM’s went up, and I went nowhere. After about three months of this, it finally started bucking and I barely made it to the mechanic. I couldn’t go over 30 and it got worse as I drove. When I got there they tried to start it and found out that there was no gas pressure. Dead gas pump was the trouble. On a fluke, that one went bad after a couple of months and it was replaced for free. It’s a Delco btw, no problems imo. No problems since and it’s probably been over 18 months. Just throwing it out there, you would have swore it was the tranny. Engine revved and rps went up but not the truck, lol. Good luck. Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Accounts Starting At $6.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com                <><><><><><><>   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <><><><><><><><>

Response:

No it doesn’t Elliot: They did away with vacum modulators about 86 or 86, Transurgeon can correct me, he’s the resident trans guru. I’ve rebuilt them, but couldn’t tell you what made them go "Bu Bye!’ He can without taking them out of the car! Transmission guys amaze me sometimes, I call to ask a question and how much to rebuild, and they say why do you want to rebuild? Just do this! Refinish King > What’s the grief?  Is the 98 tranny hooked to the vac or not? > He said he changed the plugs – and thus coulda broke or melted a vac > hose. > I know older trannys needed vac for proper shifting.  What about 98? > Elliott

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > What doc said +… > > You may want to check the vacuum lines when changing the other parts > > (unless someone sets me straight on the year vs Vac…). > > I’ve had vehicles shift funny when they had vacuum problems (and rpms > > increase randomly) – though I’m not sure if that connection is still > > there – or if they’re all electronic now.  Anyone know if a 98 engine > > still has a vacuum link to the tranny? > good grief > > Elliott message > > > > RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( > within > > > > 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid > > > > replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump > out > > > old) > > > > Here’s the problem > > > > I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) > the > > > > tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 > > > mph. > > > > Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would > > > > smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and > again > > > > etc. > > > > I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. > > > > The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. > > > > Any ideas what might be wrong? > > > > Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why > > > would > > > > the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. > > > > Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? > > > > What are your ideas. PLEASE > > > Your transmission was shifting in and out of lockup.  Check your fluid > level > > > and quality ASAP.  If all checks out ok, change the fluid and filter > > > immediately and have the PCM scanned for error codes. > > > Doc

Response:

He said the wires are new – and if he routed them ok… If it’s a misfiring thing it still could be the cap & rotor. At 107K mi that’s a fair age for that part – just like the plugs and wires, especially since pulling off the old wires (if stuck) can crack them. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > you have a bad plug wire. you were only feeling it in tcc lockup, which > your trans mission was shifting in and out of. the plug wire is a > problem. the tcc is a fact of life

Response:

NO NO NO I had the plugs replaced but not the wires or cap or rotor – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > He said the wires are new – and if he routed them ok… > If it’s a misfiring thing it still could be the cap & rotor. > At 107K mi that’s a fair age for that part – just like the plugs and > wires, > especially since pulling off the old wires (if stuck) can crack them. > Elliott > you have a bad plug wire. you were only feeling it in tcc lockup, which > your trans mission was shifting in and out of. the plug wire is a > problem. the tcc is a fact of life

Response:

rebuild a trans in a car? LOL

Response:

you have a bad plug wire. you were only feeling it in tcc lockup, which your trans mission was shifting in and out of. the plug wire is a problem. the tcc is a fact of life

Response:

Why do you think it is a plug wire – PLEASE??

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> you have a bad plug wire. you were only feeling it in tcc lockup, which > your trans mission was shifting in and out of. the plug wire is a > problem. the tcc is a fact of life

Response:

> What’s the grief?  Is the 98 tranny hooked to the vac or not? > He said he changed the plugs – and thus coulda broke or melted a vac > hose. > I know older trannys needed vac for proper shifting.  What about 98? > Elliott

They haven’t been hooked to a vacuum or throttle source since 1994 in the trucks, even earlier with the cars.  1994+ are completely computer controlled.  Stick to welding driveshafts and machining heads with a dremmel wee grasshopper. Doc

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > What doc said +… > > You may want to check the vacuum lines when changing the other parts > > (unless someone sets me straight on the year vs Vac…). > > I’ve had vehicles shift funny when they had vacuum problems (and rpms > > increase randomly) – though I’m not sure if that connection is still > > there – or if they’re all electronic now.  Anyone know if a 98 engine > > still has a vacuum link to the tranny? > good grief > > Elliott message > > > > RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( > within > > > > 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid > > > > replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump > out > > > old) > > > > Here’s the problem > > > > I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) > the > > > > tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 > > > mph. > > > > Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would > > > > smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and > again > > > > etc. > > > > I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. > > > > The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. > > > > Any ideas what might be wrong? > > > > Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why > > > would > > > > the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. > > > > Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? > > > > What are your ideas. PLEASE > > > Your transmission was shifting in and out of lockup.  Check your fluid > level > > > and quality ASAP.  If all checks out ok, change the fluid and filter > > > immediately and have the PCM scanned for error codes. > > > Doc

Response:

> What doc said +… > You may want to check the vacuum lines when changing the other parts > (unless someone sets me straight on the year vs Vac…). > I’ve had vehicles shift funny when they had vacuum problems (and rpms > increase randomly) – though I’m not sure if that connection is still > there – or if they’re all electronic now.  Anyone know if a 98 engine > still has a vacuum link to the tranny?

good grief – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Elliott > > RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( within > > 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid > > replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump out > old) > > Here’s the problem > > I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) the > > tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 > mph. > > Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would > > smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and again > > etc. > > I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. > > The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. > > Any ideas what might be wrong? > > Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why > would > > the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. > > Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? > > What are your ideas. PLEASE > Your transmission was shifting in and out of lockup.  Check your fluid level > and quality ASAP.  If all checks out ok, change the fluid and filter > immediately and have the PCM scanned for error codes. > Doc

Response:

What’s the grief?  Is the 98 tranny hooked to the vac or not? He said he changed the plugs – and thus coulda broke or melted a vac hose. I know older trannys needed vac for proper shifting.  What about 98? Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What doc said +… > You may want to check the vacuum lines when changing the other parts > (unless someone sets me straight on the year vs Vac…). > I’ve had vehicles shift funny when they had vacuum problems (and rpms > increase randomly) – though I’m not sure if that connection is still > there – or if they’re all electronic now.  Anyone know if a 98 engine > still has a vacuum link to the tranny? > good grief > Elliott > > > RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( > within > > > 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid > > > replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump > out > > old) > > > Here’s the problem > > > I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) > the > > > tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 > > mph. > > > Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would > > > smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and > again > > > etc. > > > I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. > > > The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. > > > Any ideas what might be wrong? > > > Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why > > would > > > the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. > > > Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? > > > What are your ideas. PLEASE > > Your transmission was shifting in and out of lockup.  Check your fluid > level > > and quality ASAP.  If all checks out ok, change the fluid and filter > > immediately and have the PCM scanned for error codes. > > Doc

Response:

What doc said +… You may want to check the vacuum lines when changing the other parts (unless someone sets me straight on the year vs Vac…).   I’ve had vehicles shift funny when they had vacuum problems (and rpms increase randomly) – though I’m not sure if that connection is still there – or if they’re all electronic now.  Anyone know if a 98 engine still has a vacuum link to the tranny? Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( within > 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid > replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump out > old) > Here’s the problem > I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) the > tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 > mph. > Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would > smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and again > etc. > I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. > The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. > Any ideas what might be wrong? > Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why > would > the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. > Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? > What are your ideas. PLEASE > Your transmission was shifting in and out of lockup.  Check your fluid level > and quality ASAP.  If all checks out ok, change the fluid and filter > immediately and have the PCM scanned for error codes. > Doc

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( within > 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid > replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump out old) > Here’s the problem > I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) the > tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 mph. > Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would > smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and again > etc. > I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. > The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. > Any ideas what might be wrong? > Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why would > the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. > Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? > What are your ideas. PLEASE

Your transmission was shifting in and out of lockup.  Check your fluid level and quality ASAP.  If all checks out ok, change the fluid and filter immediately and have the PCM scanned for error codes. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

RE: 1998 GMC Jimmy  4.3 engine  4X4  A/T  107,000 miles  Recently ( within 4000 miles)replaced spark plugs, gas filter and had auto trans fluid replaced (did not drop pan but used machine to pump in new and pump out old) Here’s the problem I went on a 300 mile highway drive.  After about 150 miles (at 70 mph) the tach went from a steady 2100 rpm to 2500 rpm but I was always going 72 mph. Also the suv was bucking like it was runing out of gas.  Then it would smooth out and drop back to 2100 rpm.  Then it would do it again and again etc. I was afraid I would not make it to my destination, but I did. The next day I returned home (300 miles) and it ran perfectly. Any ideas what might be wrong? Someone thought spark plug wires might need replacement but I say why would the rpm’s rise but the speed remain the same it it was the wires. Could the screen in the A/T be clogged? What are your ideas. PLEASE

Response:

GMC Jimmy wheel bearing removal

Question:

1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the hub nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back side of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong again LOL. Tim

Response:

"Tim or Linda"  wrote > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the hub > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back side > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong

again You need to tap the axle shaft out of the bearing and hub assembly. Just be careful that you don’t wreck the threads on the axle shaft.  If it’s badly siezed you may need a puller, but I’ve always been able to get them out by just tapping on the shaft with a brass drift and hammer. Ian

Response:

Just to make sure I do this right. You are saying I should hit on the threaded shaft that had the large 36mm  nut on it. I am being careful not to add extra expense by doing something wrong. After I get this one done I have another to do on our second Jimmy.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Tim or Linda"  wrote > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the > hub > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back > side > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong > again > You need to tap the axle shaft out of the bearing and hub assembly. > Just be careful that you don’t wreck the threads on the axle shaft.  If > it’s badly siezed you may need a puller, but I’ve always been able > to get them out by just tapping on the shaft with a brass drift and > hammer. > Ian

Response:

Yes that is the part to hit  >>>BUT DO NOT HAMMER DIRECTLY ON IT<<<. Put a small block of wood/plastic on the end first, or use a rubber/plastic hammer. If you hit it with a standard hammer you will end up either damaging the threads the first time you hit off center, or mushrooming the end just enough to prevent you from putting the nut on again. — Steve Williams Near Cooperstown NY – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just to make sure I do this right. You are saying I should hit on the > threaded shaft that had the large 36mm  nut on it. I am being careful not to > add extra expense by doing something wrong. After I get this one done I have > another to do on our second Jimmy. > "Tim or Linda"  wrote > > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the > hub > > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back > side > > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it > > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must > > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong > again > You need to tap the axle shaft out of the bearing and hub assembly. > Just be careful that you don’t wreck the threads on the axle shaft. If > it’s badly siezed you may need a puller, but I’ve always been able > to get them out by just tapping on the shaft with a brass drift and > hammer. > Ian

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Response:

"Tim or Linda"  wrote > Just to make sure I do this right. You are saying I should hit on the > threaded shaft that had the large 36mm  nut on it. I am being careful not to > add extra expense by doing something wrong. After I get this one done I have > another to do on our second Jimmy.

Yes, that’s where you will have to hit.  As another poster mentions, you don’t really want to hit directly on the end with a hammer.  There is a section right at the end that doesn’t have threads, but it’s really much too easy for the newbie to end up damaging the threads badly enough that you would need a new shaft.  A brass drift works best, but most folks don’t have one of those.  Another option is to re-install the nut and screw it in just far enough so that it is slightly past the end of the shaft.  This helps to prevent the end of the shaft from becoming deformed.  If the shaft is not that tight in the bearing, it will come out quite easily.  If it’s very tight, you so run the risk of damaging the end.  Good luck. Ian

Response:

I placed a 2 X 4 on the threaded spindle and hit it over 20 times with a 2 pound hammer. I called Auto Zone they have a two loaner tools for removing the hub. One is a 3 sided puller and other is a slide type hammer. I know that the puller have used them before and have a good idea of what the slide hammer is. My question is what is the best to use. I am worried hitting will cause other problems or should I just continue till it comes off. Thanks in advance – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the hub > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back side > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong again > LOL. > Tim

Response:

I got it off the slide hammer would not work. Got the three side puller. Just took some time to turn the screw on the puller, hit it with a hammer, and even put some heat on it with a torch. It came off HARD all the way. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I placed a 2 X 4 on the threaded spindle and hit it over 20 times with a 2 > pound hammer. > I called Auto Zone they have a two loaner tools for removing the hub. One is > a 3 sided puller and other is a slide type hammer. I know that the puller > have used them before and have a good idea of what the slide hammer is. My > question is what is the best to use. I am worried hitting will cause other > problems or should I just continue till it comes off. > Thanks in advance > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the > hub > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back > side > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong > again > LOL. > Tim

Response:

I am doing this exact job today – great timing for a post.  Something no one has mentioned yet… What torque do I put on the hub nut when putting it back on? Thanks, Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I got it off the slide hammer would not work. Got the three side puller. > Just took some time to turn the screw on the puller, hit it with a hammer, > and even put some heat on it with a torch. It came off HARD all the way. > I placed a 2 X 4 on the threaded spindle and hit it over 20 times with a 2 > pound hammer. > I called Auto Zone they have a two loaner tools for removing the hub. One > is > a 3 sided puller and other is a slide type hammer. I know that the puller > have used them before and have a good idea of what the slide hammer is. My > question is what is the best to use. I am worried hitting will cause other > problems or should I just continue till it comes off. > Thanks in advance > > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed the > hub > > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back > side > > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits it > > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I must > > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong > again > > LOL. > > Tim

Response:

Not idea what the torque is. I did put the hub about half way and forgot the splash guard for the brake and had to pull it back off. Auto Zone told me it should just slide off. WRONG they come off HARD and go on HARD even after a good cleaning. Good Luck. I have 3 more to do.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am doing this exact job today – great timing for a post.  Something no one > has mentioned yet… > What torque do I put on the hub nut when putting it back on? > Thanks, > Mike > I got it off the slide hammer would not work. Got the three side puller. > Just took some time to turn the screw on the puller, hit it with a hammer, > and even put some heat on it with a torch. It came off HARD all the way. > > I placed a 2 X 4 on the threaded spindle and hit it over 20 times with a > 2 > > pound hammer. > > I called Auto Zone they have a two loaner tools for removing the hub. > One > is > > a 3 sided puller and other is a slide type hammer. I know that the > puller > > have used them before and have a good idea of what the slide hammer is. > My > > question is what is the best to use. I am worried hitting will cause > other > > problems or should I just continue till it comes off. > > Thanks in advance > > > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > > > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed > the > > hub > > > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the back > > side > > > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits > it > > > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I > must > > > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or wrong > > again > > > LOL. > > > Tim

Response:

"OCG" wrote > I am doing this exact job today – great timing for a post.  Something no one > has mentioned yet… > What torque do I put on the hub nut when putting it back on?

103 ft/lbs. Ian

Response:

Done….not a bad job (4 hours including lots of learning). The car is 80% quieter now…but something else is grinding.  I wonder if the other side (front) bearing is going too.  What’s strange is that the noise appears worse with even a slight turn left OR right. Given I just replaced the right front bearing, do you think it is the other bearing?  (Do you have the same symptoms) or do you think a CV/U joint is to blame? Thanks, Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Not idea what the torque is. I did put the hub about half way and forgot the > splash guard for the brake and had to pull it back off. Auto Zone told me it > should just slide off. WRONG they come off HARD and go on HARD even after a > good cleaning. > Good Luck. I have 3 more to do. > I am doing this exact job today – great timing for a post.  Something no > one > has mentioned yet… > What torque do I put on the hub nut when putting it back on? > Thanks, > Mike > > I got it off the slide hammer would not work. Got the three side puller. > > Just took some time to turn the screw on the puller, hit it with a > hammer, > > and even put some heat on it with a torch. It came off HARD all the way. > > > I placed a 2 X 4 on the threaded spindle and hit it over 20 times with > a > 2 > > > pound hammer. > > > I called Auto Zone they have a two loaner tools for removing the hub. > One > > is > > > a 3 sided puller and other is a slide type hammer. I know that the > puller > > > have used them before and have a good idea of what the slide hammer > is. > My > > > question is what is the best to use. I am worried hitting will cause > other > > > problems or should I just continue till it comes off. > > > Thanks in advance > > > > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > > > > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. Removed > the > > > hub > > > > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the > back > > > side > > > > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few hits > it > > > > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure I > must > > > > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or > wrong > > > again > > > > LOL. > > > > Tim

Response:

Same thing here quieter but still making nose will change the other side when I get the money for the part (not working)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Done….not a bad job (4 hours including lots of learning). > The car is 80% quieter now…but something else is grinding.  I wonder if > the other side (front) bearing is going too.  What’s strange is that the > noise appears worse with even a slight turn left OR right. > Given I just replaced the right front bearing, do you think it is the other > bearing?  (Do you have the same symptoms) or do you think a CV/U joint is to > blame? > Thanks, > Mike > Not idea what the torque is. I did put the hub about half way and forgot > the > splash guard for the brake and had to pull it back off. Auto Zone told me > it > should just slide off. WRONG they come off HARD and go on HARD even after > a > good cleaning. > Good Luck. I have 3 more to do. > > I am doing this exact job today – great timing for a post.  Something no > one > > has mentioned yet… > > What torque do I put on the hub nut when putting it back on? > > Thanks, > > Mike > > > I got it off the slide hammer would not work. Got the three side > puller. > > > Just took some time to turn the screw on the puller, hit it with a > hammer, > > > and even put some heat on it with a torch. It came off HARD all the > way. > > > > I placed a 2 X 4 on the threaded spindle and hit it over 20 times > with > a > > 2 > > > > pound hammer. > > > > I called Auto Zone they have a two loaner tools for removing the > hub. > > One > > > is > > > > a 3 sided puller and other is a slide type hammer. I know that the > > puller > > > > have used them before and have a good idea of what the slide hammer > is. > > My > > > > question is what is the best to use. I am worried hitting will cause > > other > > > > problems or should I just continue till it comes off. > > > > Thanks in advance > > > > > 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 WD front wheel bearing replacement. > > > > > I got the brake off and supported. Took the ABS sensor off. > Removed > > the > > > > hub > > > > > nut after getting a 38mm socket, and removed the 3 bolts from the > back > > > > side > > > > > of the bearing hub. I then hit it with a hammer and after a few > hits > > it > > > > > broke loose. But its still connected to the drive shaft. I figure > I > > must > > > > > need a puller to get it removed from the spindle. Am I right or > wrong > > > > again > > > > > LOL. > > > > > Tim

Response:

gmc jimmy electrical issues

Question:

Ok here is the deal, I have a 1993 Gmc Jimmy with the 4.3 vortec engine (SLT I believe). It has been running allright I guess but a few months ago my wife got in it and went to move the seat forward -everything is electric…:(- and right when she got it all the way forward it stopped working. Now it will not move at all. Not only that but now the power locks and the 4×4 will not function. This sucks. I am most interested in getting the seat and the 4×4 to work again. When I try to push the button that actuates the 4×4 I hear a clicking over behind the glove compartment and the lights on the button look like they are trying but then nothing happens. I have a hayes manuel but it is no help in this matter. After tearing into the dash to see "what" was behind the glove compartment I think I might have found the "computer". I am not sure. Anyway, if there is anyone out there that might be able to help me that would be great! Adam

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ok here is the deal, I have a 1993 Gmc Jimmy with the 4.3 vortec > engine (SLT I believe). It has been running allright I guess but a few > months ago my wife got in it and went to move the seat forward > -everything is electric…:(- and right when she got it all the way > forward it stopped working. Now it will not move at all. Not only that > but now the power locks and the 4×4 will not function. This sucks. I > am most interested in getting the seat and the 4×4 to work again. When > I try to push the button that actuates the 4×4 I hear a clicking over > behind the glove compartment and the lights on the button look like > they are trying but then nothing happens. I have a hayes manuel but it > is no help in this matter. After tearing into the dash to see "what" > was behind the glove compartment I think I might have found the > "computer". I am not sure. Anyway, if there is anyone out there that > might be able to help me that would be great! > Adam

Checked the fuses yet? Doc

Response:

Did you check the fuses?  IIRC from when I had a truck of that vintage all the options you mention are on one fuse. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Ok here is the deal, I have a 1993 Gmc Jimmy with the 4.3 vortec >engine (SLT I believe). It has been running allright I guess but a few >months ago my wife got in it and went to move the seat forward >-everything is electric…:(- and right when she got it all the way >forward it stopped working. Now it will not move at all. Not only that >but now the power locks and the 4×4 will not function. This sucks. I >am most interested in getting the seat and the 4×4 to work again. When >I try to push the button that actuates the 4×4 I hear a clicking over >behind the glove compartment and the lights on the button look like >they are trying but then nothing happens. I have a hayes manuel but it >is no help in this matter. After tearing into the dash to see "what" >was behind the glove compartment I think I might have found the >"computer". I am not sure. Anyway, if there is anyone out there that >might be able to help me that would be great! >Adam

Response:

Jimmy Head lights

Question:

I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy the left headlamp was bouncing when I drove it seemed to be loose. As luck would have it some hit the right front bumper and put a hole in it. I had it repaired (insurance covered) at a body shop and asked them if they could look at the headlamp. When I picked it up they said they tightened it up and that should stop it. Yesterday was the first I drove it at night and now it seems to be aimed very low. How do I adjust them and will that cause it to bounce again. Tim

Response:

| I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy the left headlamp was bouncing when I drove it | seemed to be loose. As luck would have it some hit the right front bumper | and put a hole in it. I had it repaired (insurance covered) at a body shop | and asked them if they could look at the headlamp. When I picked it up they | said they tightened it up and that should stop it. Yesterday was the first I | drove it at night and now it seems to be aimed very low. How do I adjust | them and will that cause it to bounce again. | | Tim | | Usually there are two adjustment screws…one to adjust vertical positioning and the other horizontal positioning.  You will need to do some research on how to calibrate your adjustments.  If you have a flat driveway with a garage door to shine the lights on, you’re part way there.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >| I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy the left headlamp was bouncing when I drove it >| seemed to be loose. As luck would have it some hit the right front bumper >| and put a hole in it. I had it repaired (insurance covered) at a body shop >| and asked them if they could look at the headlamp. When I picked it up they >| said they tightened it up and that should stop it. Yesterday was the first I >| drove it at night and now it seems to be aimed very low. How do I adjust >| them and will that cause it to bounce again. >| >| Tim >| >| >Usually there are two adjustment screws…one to adjust vertical positioning >and the other horizontal positioning.  You will need to do some research on how >to calibrate your adjustments.  If you have a flat driveway with a garage door >to shine the lights on, you’re part way there.

Also needs to be double-checked that the lamp housings are installed correctly.  

Response:

All I know of is one screw on the center top that tilts the lamp housing out. I think that is for changing lamps but not sure.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->| I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy the left headlamp was bouncing when I drove it >| seemed to be loose. As luck would have it some hit the right front bumper >| and put a hole in it. I had it repaired (insurance covered) at a body shop >| and asked them if they could look at the headlamp. When I picked it up they >| said they tightened it up and that should stop it. Yesterday was the first I >| drove it at night and now it seems to be aimed very low. How do I adjust >| them and will that cause it to bounce again. >| >| Tim >| >| >Usually there are two adjustment screws…one to adjust vertical positioning >and the other horizontal positioning.  You will need to do some research on how >to calibrate your adjustments.  If you have a flat driveway with a garage door >to shine the lights on, you’re part way there. > Also needs to be double-checked that the lamp housings are installed > correctly.

Response:

> I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy the left headlamp was bouncing when I drove it > seemed to be loose. As luck would have it some hit the right front bumper > and put a hole in it. I had it repaired (insurance covered) at a body shop > and asked them if they could look at the headlamp. When I picked it up they > said they tightened it up and that should stop it. Yesterday was the first I > drove it at night and now it seems to be aimed very low. How do I adjust > them and will that cause it to bounce again. > Tim

Take it back to the body shop and have them aim it, they get paid by the insurance company to do that, they are obviously not doing their job. Back in the day, If I let a car go without the headlamps being aimed, I’d get bitched at by whatever service writer who had the job.

Response:

I have two Jimmy’s and would like to know where and how the adjustment works. The body shop told me they tightened it down to stop the bouncing it was not part of the damage they just did it for me.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy the left headlamp was bouncing when I drove it > seemed to be loose. As luck would have it some hit the right front bumper > and put a hole in it. I had it repaired (insurance covered) at a body shop > and asked them if they could look at the headlamp. When I picked it up > they > said they tightened it up and that should stop it. Yesterday was the first > I > drove it at night and now it seems to be aimed very low. How do I adjust > them and will that cause it to bounce again. > Tim > Take it back to the body shop and have them aim it, they get paid by the > insurance company to do that, they are obviously not doing their job. > Back in the day, If I let a car go without the headlamps being aimed, I’d > get bitched at by whatever service writer who had the job.

Response: