GM Compliant Dept?

Question:

Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it. — Doug and Rox Ann Adams M268 Rd.5A McClure, Ohio 43534 —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

It may fall on deaf ears. The vehicle is out of warranty and GM no longer produces 1997 Blazers. It would more or less give the lady on the other end of the phone something to talk to her co-workers about at break time. However, I do feel your pain. A friend of mine used to own one, for all of 6 months, got rid of it ASAP as soon as the repair bills started to pile up. Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a > ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it > is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

Response:

Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and get something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I did…and should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for dumping the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known better).

Response:

My 97 Blazer, 4.3 Vortec.. 118,000 on it now. 2 door, cloth interior, a/c/, auto, 2wd, am/fm/cassette. Manual windows, cruise. Gauges but no tach. 40,000 – Alternator 50,000 – Water pump 80,000 – Transmission (set slip code). The did this under warranty. "New" gm reman, at dealer 80,000 – A/C compresor 80,000 – Wiper control module 102,000 – just out of warranty – fuel pump, 800, ouch! 104,000 – 2nd alternator The first set of brakes lasted 25,000, 2nd set about 50k, on the 3rd set now. OEM tires (Wranglers as I recall) wen to 65k, have Michelins on there now. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a >’97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it >is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

Response:

My 1998 GMC Jimmy I don’t know the mileage when the repairs were done but I have. It now has 106,000 miles Ignition switch Both front wheel bearings Two Alternators Drivers side power window motor Water pump Wiper motor

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 Blazer, 4.3 Vortec.. 118,000 on it now. 2 door, cloth interior, > a/c/, auto, 2wd, am/fm/cassette. Manual windows, cruise. Gauges but no > tach. > 40,000 – Alternator > 50,000 – Water pump > 80,000 – Transmission (set slip code). The did this under warranty. > "New" gm reman, at dealer > 80,000 – A/C compresor > 80,000 – Wiper control module > 102,000 – just out of warranty – fuel pump, 800, ouch! > 104,000 – 2nd alternator > The first set of brakes lasted 25,000, 2nd set about 50k, on the 3rd > set now. OEM tires (Wranglers as I recall) wen to 65k, have Michelins > on there now. >Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a >’97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it >is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

Response:

Sounds like GM’s Customer Service is just like a bull "services" a cow. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a > ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it > is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it. > — > Doug and Rox Ann Adams > M268 Rd.5A > McClure, Ohio 43534 > —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet > News==—- > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ > Newsgroups > —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption > =—-

Response:

> Sounds like GM’s Customer Service is just like a bull "services" a cow.

One way to look at it.  Except the cow may actually enjoy the experience!

Response:

Trust me, GM isn’t the only one with crappy Customer Service. Mercury/Ford is the same way. Some dude in India who reads scripts, and refuses to give you corporate contact information… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is > that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer > Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and get > something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I did…and > should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for dumping > the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they > didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known > better).

Response:

That may very well be true.  But the subject is not Ford’s customer service, it’s GM’s customer service.  So, I’m not sure what the point was.  If it’s to say that they all are bad…that is a poor excuse for GM to do it just because it’s competitors do (if that was the point).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Trust me, GM isn’t the only one with crappy Customer Service. Mercury/Ford > is the same way. Some dude in India who reads scripts, and refuses to give > you corporate contact information… > Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is > that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer > Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and > get something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I > did…and should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for > dumping the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they > didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known > better).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > That may very well be true.  But the subject is not Ford’s customer service, > it’s GM’s customer service.  So, I’m not sure what the point was.  If it’s > to say that they all are bad…that is a poor excuse for GM to do it just > because it’s competitors do (if that was the point). > Trust me, GM isn’t the only one with crappy Customer Service. Mercury/Ford > is the same way. Some dude in India who reads scripts, and refuses to give > you corporate contact information… >> Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is >> that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer >> Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and >> get something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I >> did…and should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for >> dumping the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they >> didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known >> better).

I worked for both Ford and GM and it’s pretty similar. We always called it "liar’s school." They take young kids out of school who usually don’t know much about vehicles. They put them in a pool with others to teach them how to blow customers off. When they graduate from there they head for a sales dept. assignment. Sounds like they transferred the work overseas.

Response:

underwear and scratched on the wall: > Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a > ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it > is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

I feel for ya. I had a ‘95 Jimmy which drove great and I loved the 4.3L engine but what a pain – almost 150K miles in seven years and I had – three EFI units, power steering pump, water pump, EGR unit twice, rebuilt headers, power window motor (driver), 4×4 actuator… …and to top it off, I had bought the truck with the (now infamous) Bridgestone ATX tires. Took it in to have the brakes done one day, and the guy called me talling me there’s deep cracks around the inner tread of all four tires. Fortunately, thanks to the Ford issue, I got them reimbursed a few months later. — kai www.perfectreign.com a palm tree nodded at me last night, he said, you look so pale…

Response:

Running day lights

Question:

>!

Damn!  I’m still working through the last DLR thread….. Sigh….

Response:

>>>Should be just what the doctor ordered. >I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up.

Was able to get it now, through Comcast.  Try again? — E-mail fudged to thwart spammers. Transpose the c’s and a’s in my e-mail address to reply.

Response:

Comes up for me now too.  I think the hosted site was offline for some reason. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>Should be just what the doctor ordered. >>I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up. >Was able to get it now, through Comcast.  Try again?

Response:

>! > Damn!  I’m still working through the last DLR thread….. > Sigh….

Did it ever end?  ;-)

Response:

Should be a fuse marked "DRL" that you can remove – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the >automatic running day lights?

Response:

!

Response:

> !

Possible (responding to your annotation in the subject heading).  But there isn’t much more to say about them, is there?  ;-)

Response:

Myself I like the lights on – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Not sure if it will work but on my 1998 GMC Jimmy if you set the parking > break one click the lights stay off. I cant do it my brake peddle is broke > and wont stay latched. I looked at repairing it but it seems to be a > replace > item and not worth the trouble of fixing it. > A couple of potential problems with this approach. > 1.  It causes the "Brake" warning light (on the dash) to remain illuminated. > This light serves two purposes.  One, to remind the operator that the > emergency brake is not released  AND, two, as a main brake system failure > light. > 2.  On some models, this causes the ABS system to not function (since the > BCM "thinks" that the e-brake is still engaged) > 3.  Can cause excessive rear brake pad wear or overheating of the rear > brakes > So, probably not a good idea.

Response:

Still doesn’t.  Can get part of it by searching for it in Google and choosing the "cached" option, but for all the pix it is still trying to get from the real host site. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try this URL.  I have been to it before (maybe a month ago or so?) but > I just tried it before posting and the site won’t load.  Anyway, in > case it’s just a glitch tonight, here is the URL: > http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html > Should be just what the doctor ordered. >I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up.

Response:

> Try this URL.  I have been to it before (maybe a month ago or so?) but > I just tried it before posting and the site won’t load.  Anyway, in > case it’s just a glitch tonight, here is the URL: > http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html > Should be just what the doctor ordered.

I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up.

Response:

> Not sure if it will work but on my 1998 GMC Jimmy if you set the parking > break one click the lights stay off. I cant do it my brake peddle is broke > and wont stay latched. I looked at repairing it but it seems to be a > replace > item and not worth the trouble of fixing it.

A couple of potential problems with this approach. 1.  It causes the "Brake" warning light (on the dash) to remain illuminated. This light serves two purposes.  One, to remind the operator that the emergency brake is not released  AND, two, as a main brake system failure light. 2.  On some models, this causes the ABS system to not function (since the BCM "thinks" that the e-brake is still engaged) 3.  Can cause excessive rear brake pad wear or overheating of the rear brakes So, probably not a good idea.

Response:

Try this URL.  I have been to it before (maybe a month ago or so?) but I just tried it before posting and the site won’t load.  Anyway, in case it’s just a glitch tonight, here is the URL: http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html Should be just what the doctor ordered. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the > automatic running day lights? >Probably not.  Everything I tried would cause the "Service Vehicle Soon" >light to come on and set a code in the BCM.  It appears that there is a >monitoring circuit that sets a code if it senses any malfunction of the >daytime running lights (DRLs).  GM won’t help either…they don’t care what >you want…even if it’s legal.  The DRL was one reason I ditched my GM >vehicle…couldn’t stand them (or the auto headlights either).  Hope you >have better luck.  Good luck!  If you don’t have better luck, buy a new 2005 >Mustang OR a 2006 Dodge Charger, neither of those have DRLs.

Response:

I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the automatic running day lights?

Response:

>I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the > automatic running day lights?

Probably not.  Everything I tried would cause the "Service Vehicle Soon" light to come on and set a code in the BCM.  It appears that there is a monitoring circuit that sets a code if it senses any malfunction of the daytime running lights (DRLs).  GM won’t help either…they don’t care what you want…even if it’s legal.  The DRL was one reason I ditched my GM vehicle…couldn’t stand them (or the auto headlights either).  Hope you have better luck.  Good luck!  If you don’t have better luck, buy a new 2005 Mustang OR a 2006 Dodge Charger, neither of those have DRLs.

Response:

Not sure if it will work but on my 1998 GMC Jimmy if you set the parking break one click the lights stay off. I cant do it my brake peddle is broke and wont stay latched. I looked at repairing it but it seems to be a replace item and not worth the trouble of fixing it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the > automatic running day lights? > Probably not.  Everything I tried would cause the "Service Vehicle Soon" > light to come on and set a code in the BCM.  It appears that there is a > monitoring circuit that sets a code if it senses any malfunction of the > daytime running lights (DRLs).  GM won’t help either…they don’t care what > you want…even if it’s legal.  The DRL was one reason I ditched my GM > vehicle…couldn’t stand them (or the auto headlights either).  Hope you > have better luck.  Good luck!  If you don’t have better luck, buy a new 2005 > Mustang OR a 2006 Dodge Charger, neither of those have DRLs.

Response:

Rust problem

Question:

I can only ask if it’s lived in a harsh winter climate it’s whole life, where they still use LOTS of salt. I’m pretty certain out on the East coast of Canada a vehicle’s lifespan is only about 10 years. Then frame and body are junk.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My father has a 1994 z71 with about 70k on it.  It seems to have a > serious rust problem. So far the bumper has rusted through, brake > lines have rusted through, fuel lines leaked due to rust, the > differential cover became so thin with rust, the fluid started to seep > through it, and the tailgate hinges dont look so good either. > Does anyone know if this is a common problem with this truck?  Or is > this abnormal.  Any info would be apreciated. > Brian

Response:

In new england it’s about 14 years before you need to replace parts IF you take care of it… haven’t seen any nasty frames though. My 1990 jimmy is about the worse i’ve seen and it’s fine, and my 1985’s frame is pretty nice but the sheet metal is like swiss cheeze… GMC Gremlin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can only ask if it’s lived in a harsh winter climate it’s whole life, > where they still use LOTS of salt. I’m pretty certain out on the East coast > of Canada a vehicle’s lifespan is only about 10 years. Then frame and body > are junk. > My father has a 1994 z71 with about 70k on it.  It seems to have a > serious rust problem. So far the bumper has rusted through, brake > lines have rusted through, fuel lines leaked due to rust, the > differential cover became so thin with rust, the fluid started to seep > through it, and the tailgate hinges dont look so good either. > Does anyone know if this is a common problem with this truck?  Or is > this abnormal.  Any info would be apreciated. > Brian

Response:

. . Rust problem   My father has a 1994 z71 with about 70k on it. It seems to have a serious rust problem. So far the bumper has rusted through, brake lines have rusted through, fuel lines leaked due to rust, the differential cover became so thin with rust, the fluid started to seep through it, and the tailgate hinges dont look so good either. Does anyone know if this is a common problem with this truck? Or is this abnormal. Any info would be apreciated. Brian The condition is specific to your truck. NOT  a normal condition for a maintained vehical. Been hauling any fertiizer??   Road Salt? MarshMonster ~:~ ====== ======

Response:

What area of the country and where is it parked when not being used?  Those two items make a BIG difference. For instance a vehicle in central Texas that is washed every month or so and stored in a garage will last a LOT longer than one used in the Northeast and kept in a gravel floored shed. Damn salt eats them alive and if the salt is kept damp by the moisture coming out of the ground through the gravel you can have rust through in less than 5 years. — Steve Williams Near Cooperstown NY

> My father has a 1994 z71 with about 70k on it.  It seems to have a > serious rust problem. So far the bumper has rusted through, brake > lines have rusted through, fuel lines leaked due to rust, the > differential cover became so thin with rust, the fluid started to seep > through it, and the tailgate hinges dont look so good either. > Does anyone know if this is a common problem with this truck?  Or is > this abnormal.  Any info would be apreciated. > Brian

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Response:

My father has a 1994 z71 with about 70k on it.  It seems to have a serious rust problem. So far the bumper has rusted through, brake lines have rusted through, fuel lines leaked due to rust, the differential cover became so thin with rust, the fluid started to seep through it, and the tailgate hinges dont look so good either. Does anyone know if this is a common problem with this truck?  Or is this abnormal.  Any info would be apreciated. Brian

Response:

1985 GMC Jimmy

Question:

> I know yours is a 85 and mine is still a 98. I was saying is I have 3 and > I > know one is on the exhaust. Was trying to help you. >     1985’s  only have ONE. Very little driveline wise  is the same from 1985 > to 1998. > Charles

    I assumed an S-15 Jimmy. In 1985 it   also came  in Full Size, which shares next to   nothing with a 1998 S-15 Jimmy. Charles

Response:

> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a > detailed description would be appreciated. >     Which Engine? 2.5L I-4, 2.8L V6 or 4.3L V6 (carburated,  late 1985 > vehicals). > Charles

    Disregaurd. I  didn’t  even notice you were talking abount a C-15/K-15 Full Size  Jimmy.

Response:

> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a > detailed description would be appreciated.

    Which Engine? 2.5L I-4, 2.8L V6 or 4.3L V6 (carburated,  late 1985 vehicals). Charles

Response:

> I know yours is a 85 and mine is still a 98. I was saying is I have 3 and I > know one is on the exhaust. Was trying to help you.

    1985’s  only have ONE. Very little driveline wise  is the same from 1985 to 1998. Charles

Response:

> Nope. >> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a >> detailed description would be appreciated. > Was this Jimmy built for California emissions?

Well, you might as well stop your search for the oxygen sensor. A 1985 Jimmy w/5.0 built for 49 state emissions (federal) did not have an oxygen sensor as factory equipment.

Response:

Nope.

> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a > detailed description would be appreciated. > Was this Jimmy built for California emissions?

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I know yours is a 85 and mine is still a 98. I was saying is I have 3 and I know one is on the exhaust. Was trying to help you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1985, not 1998. > Correct me if wrong but I think a 98 Jimmy has 3 oxygen sensors on it. One > is in the exhaust system left side near the motor. >> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a >> detailed description would be appreciated. >> — >> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. >> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

The only thing I could find there was just below the spark plugs. It’s hard to tell if it’s actually going into the exhaust manifold or not because of the limited visibility, but it has a single thin-gauge wire going to it that goes into a yellow plastic or ceramic connector. This connector is attached at the top of the device at a right angle, as if it’s snapped onto the tip. From what others are telling me, this is the temperature sending unit. Could you describe what it looks like, and some of the other items near it? The new sensor I have is a non-oem unit, so I’m assuming that it doesn’t look exactly the same.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->1985, not 1998. > It should be in the drivers side exhaust manifold. > — >     Dennis Smith >     -1971 Trans Am – 455 H.O. – M21 4speed – Cameo white/blue stripe- >      < http://ps2page.tripod.com/my71ta/tapage.html > >     -1973 Trans Am – 455 – TH400 auto – Buccaneer red- >     -1984 Trans Am – 5.0 L – TH700R4 auto – Royal blue/silver aero-

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Response:

> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a > detailed description would be appreciated.

Was this Jimmy built for California emissions?

Response:

>1985, not 1998.

It should be in the drivers side exhaust manifold.   —      Dennis Smith                                  -1971 Trans Am – 455 H.O. – M21 4speed – Cameo white/blue stripe-       < http://ps2page.tripod.com/my71ta/tapage.html >        -1973 Trans Am – 455 – TH400 auto – Buccaneer red-      -1984 Trans Am – 5.0 L – TH700R4 auto – Royal blue/silver aero-

Response:

1985, not 1998. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Correct me if wrong but I think a 98 Jimmy has 3 oxygen sensors on it. One > is in the exhaust system left side near the motor. > Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a > detailed description would be appreciated. > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a detailed description would be appreciated. — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Correct me if wrong but I think a 98 Jimmy has 3 oxygen sensors on it. One is in the exhaust system left side near the motor.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone know where the oxygen sensor is on 5.0 ltr? As a rank amateur, a > detailed description would be appreciated. > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free by AVG Antivirus. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Help – Rear Window Washer

Question:

Dave You gave in.  I’m looking to fix the problem as I do like to use the washer occassionally. Rog

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have the same problem with my 98 Blazer.  We just don’t bother to use the > fluid anymore since I never seem to have the time to try and take the > interior apart to find the leak.  It was squirting all over the inside by > the back window last time we tried to use it.  It was in the winter though > and I just figured the line was frozen somewhere and that was blocking it > from going where it needs to go.  Now that the weather is nice… it still > doesn’t squirt on the window. > Dave > re: 1998 GMC Jimmy > When I activate the rear washer the water does NOT get to the wiper arm > nozzle.  Instead it runs out thru a hole in a rear frame member.  I can’t > figure out where the tubing is broken or disconnected.  Any help is > appreciated.

Response:

Rog- Actually, it is my wife’s daily driver and she doesn’t seem to care so I don’t even bother with it.  The thing is usually filthy anyways and needs to be detailed so it will look nice.  If you find any ideas on causes/fixes for it, let me know. -Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dave > You gave in.  I’m looking to fix the problem as I do like to use the washer > occassionally. > Rog > I have the same problem with my 98 Blazer.  We just don’t bother to use > the > fluid anymore since I never seem to have the time to try and take the > interior apart to find the leak.  It was squirting all over the inside by > the back window last time we tried to use it.  It was in the winter though > and I just figured the line was frozen somewhere and that was blocking it > from going where it needs to go.  Now that the weather is nice… it still > doesn’t squirt on the window. > Dave > > re: 1998 GMC Jimmy > > When I activate the rear washer the water does NOT get to the wiper arm > > nozzle.  Instead it runs out thru a hole in a rear frame member.  I > can’t > > figure out where the tubing is broken or disconnected.  Any help is > > appreciated.

Response:

I have the same problem with my 98 Blazer.  We just don’t bother to use the fluid anymore since I never seem to have the time to try and take the interior apart to find the leak.  It was squirting all over the inside by the back window last time we tried to use it.  It was in the winter though and I just figured the line was frozen somewhere and that was blocking it from going where it needs to go.  Now that the weather is nice… it still doesn’t squirt on the window. Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> re: 1998 GMC Jimmy > When I activate the rear washer the water does NOT get to the wiper arm > nozzle.  Instead it runs out thru a hole in a rear frame member.  I can’t > figure out where the tubing is broken or disconnected.  Any help is > appreciated.

Response:

 re: 1998 GMC Jimmy When I activate the rear washer the water does NOT get to the wiper arm nozzle.  Instead it runs out thru a hole in a rear frame member.  I can’t figure out where the tubing is broken or disconnected.  Any help is appreciated.

Response:

Exhaust fumes in my K5 with the rear window down…

Question:

I have a cat-back system with side exits, post wheel, level to the ground but angled backwards. It looks bad a$$ sounds mean and with the top on/off all windows opened/closed I never smell it. 1990 GMC Jimmy SLE ~KJ/TLGM

>     Very well could. I would consider a turndown in the stock location instead.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | Just wondering.  I was planning on doing a little exhaust upgrade to it > | anyway.  You think relocating the pipe to exit in front of the wheel instead > | of behind it would help??? > | > | -JP > | > | >    Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong, > | it could be an issue of something in > | > the engine not running right. > | > > | >     I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the > | rear tires out the sides with slight > | > turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down > | ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock > | > exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the > | tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please). > | > > | >     On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL > | the time with the window down. I > | > changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has > | custom single exhaust exiting in the > | > OEM location and I never got gassed out. > | > > | >     None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and > | wanting the window down. > | > > | >     I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win. > | > > | > > | > > | > | it’s the stock exhaust location.  comes out the side, behind the wheel. > | > | > | > | >    Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear > | exit > | > | exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! > | > | > You now know why… > | > | > > | > | >     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them > | too. > | > | > > | > | > > | > | > > | > | > | Hey all… > | > | > | > | > | > | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I > | like > | > | > | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust > | fumes > | > | in > | > | > | through the back window and into the cab. > | > | > | > | > | > | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting > | air > | > | down > | > | > | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. > | > | > | > | > | > | So my two questions are: > | > | > | > | > | > | 1) Would the wing help?? > | > | > | > | > | > | 2) Where could I find one?? > | > | > | > | > | > | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone > | got a > | > | used > | > | > | one to get rid of? > | > | > | > | > | > | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, > | and if > | > | > | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be > | willing > | > | to > | > | > | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. > | > | > | > | > | > | Thanks all, > | > | > | > | > | > | -JP > | > | > | > | > | > | > | > | > > | > | > > | > | > | > | > | > > | > > | > |

Response:

    Very well could. I would consider a turndown in the stock location instead. | Just wondering.  I was planning on doing a little exhaust upgrade to it | anyway.  You think relocating the pipe to exit in front of the wheel instead | of behind it would help??? | | -JP |

| >    Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong, | it could be an issue of something in | > the engine not running right. | > | >     I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the | rear tires out the sides with slight | > turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down | ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock | > exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the | tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please). | > | >     On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL | the time with the window down. I | > changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has | custom single exhaust exiting in the | > OEM location and I never got gassed out. | > | >     None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and | wanting the window down. | > | >     I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win. | > | > | > | > | it’s the stock exhaust location.  comes out the side, behind the wheel. | > | | > | >    Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear | exit | > | exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! | > | > You now know why… | > | > | > | >     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them | too. | > | > | > | > | > | > | > | > | Hey all… | > | > | | > | > | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I | like | > | > | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust | fumes | > | in | > | > | through the back window and into the cab. | > | > | | > | > | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting | air | > | down | > | > | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. | > | > | | > | > | So my two questions are: | > | > | | > | > | 1) Would the wing help?? | > | > | | > | > | 2) Where could I find one?? | > | > | | > | > | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone | got a | > | used | > | > | one to get rid of? | > | > | | > | > | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, | and if | > | > | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be | willing | > | to | > | > | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. | > | > | | > | > | Thanks all, | > | > | | > | > | -JP | > | > | | > | > | | > | > | > | > | > | | > | | > | > | |

Response:

Just wondering.  I was planning on doing a little exhaust upgrade to it anyway.  You think relocating the pipe to exit in front of the wheel instead of behind it would help??? -JP

>    Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong,

it could be an issue of something in > the engine not running right. >     I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the

rear tires out the sides with slight > turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down

ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock > exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the

tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please). >     On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL

the time with the window down. I > changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has

custom single exhaust exiting in the > OEM location and I never got gassed out. >     None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and

wanting the window down. >     I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | it’s the stock exhaust location.  comes out the side, behind the wheel. > | > | >    Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear exit > | exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! > | > You now know why… > | > > | >     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them too. > | > > | > > | > > | > | Hey all… > | > | > | > | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like > | > | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes > | in > | > | through the back window and into the cab. > | > | > | > | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air > | down > | > | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. > | > | > | > | So my two questions are: > | > | > | > | 1) Would the wing help?? > | > | > | > | 2) Where could I find one?? > | > | > | > | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a > | used > | > | one to get rid of? > | > | > | > | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if > | > | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing > | to > | > | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. > | > | > | > | Thanks all, > | > | > | > | -JP > | > | > | > | > | > > | > > | > |

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->   Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong, it could be an issue of something in >the engine not running right. >    I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the rear tires out the sides with slight >turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock >exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please). >    On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL the time with the window down. I >changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has custom single exhaust exiting in the >OEM location and I never got gassed out. >    None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and wanting the window down. >    I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win. >| it’s the stock exhaust location.  comes out the side, behind the wheel. >| >| >    Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear exit >| exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! >| > You now know why… >| > >| >     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them too. >| > >| > >| > >| > | Hey all… >| > | >| > | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like >| > | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes >| in >| > | through the back window and into the cab. >| > | >| > | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air >| down >| > | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. >| > | >| > | So my two questions are: >| > | >| > | 1) Would the wing help?? >| > | >| > | 2) Where could I find one?? >| > | >| > | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a >| used >| > | one to get rid of? >| > | >| > | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if >| > | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing >| to >| > | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. >| > | >| > | Thanks all, >| > | >| > | -JP >| > | >| > | >| > >| > >| >|

An internal combustion engine makes carbon monoxide regardless of how well it is tuned.  It will kill you.  The bad part is that you can’t smell it at all.  The stinky fumes are just an indication that the exhaust is there but it will only kill a few brain cells without the CO.

Response:

It’s still got the original Cat, around 150k miles on it now.  The smog pump is connected, but the belt isn’t on there. You think putting the belt back on may help??  It’s a cheap enough fix, I may try it tomorrow evening after work.  Couldn’t hurt, that’s for sure. LMC has a new high-flow Cat for $189 (yikes!) By the way, I forgot to mention, the problem is much worse on startup.  Once the truck is warmed, the problem is much less noticeable. Thanks, -JP

>    Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong,

it could be an issue of something in > the engine not running right. >     I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the

rear tires out the sides with slight > turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down

ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock > exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the

tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please). >     On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL

the time with the window down. I > changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has

custom single exhaust exiting in the > OEM location and I never got gassed out. >     None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and

wanting the window down. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win.

Response:

    For a Cat you should check JEGS.     I wouldn’t bother with the AIR pump… | It’s still got the original Cat, around 150k miles on it now.  The smog pump | is connected, but the belt isn’t on there. | | You think putting the belt back on may help??  It’s a cheap enough fix, I | may try it tomorrow evening after work.  Couldn’t hurt, that’s for sure. | | LMC has a new high-flow Cat for $189 (yikes!) | | By the way, I forgot to mention, the problem is much worse on startup.  Once | the truck is warmed, the problem is much less noticeable. | | Thanks, | | -JP |

| >    Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong, | it could be an issue of something in | > the engine not running right. | > | >     I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the | rear tires out the sides with slight | > turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down | ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock | > exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the | tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please). | > | >     On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL | the time with the window down. I | > changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has | custom single exhaust exiting in the | > OEM location and I never got gassed out. | > | >     None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and | wanting the window down. | > | >     I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win. | > | | |

Response:

   Does it still have the Cat on it? Either way, if the fumes are strong, it could be an issue of something in the engine not running right.     I had 2 Blazers, one was an ‘81 with true duals that exited behind the rear tires out the sides with slight turn downs and I never had any fumes and I drove with the window down ALLOT! The other was an ‘84 with stock exhaust and the Cat and I was hard pressed to smell fumes sniffing the tailpipe(no smart-ass remarks please).     On my ‘85 Suburban, I had duals exiting in the rear and had fumes ALL the time with the window down. I changed it and exited it at the sides and cured the problem. It now has custom single exhaust exiting in the OEM location and I never got gassed out.     None of my Kids complained either and they were ALWAYS in the back and wanting the window down.     I was probably just lucky. With some vehicles you just cant win. | it’s the stock exhaust location.  comes out the side, behind the wheel. |

| >    Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear exit | exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! | > You now know why… | > | >     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them too. | > | > | > | > | Hey all… | > | | > | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like | > | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes | in | > | through the back window and into the cab. | > | | > | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air | down | > | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. | > | | > | So my two questions are: | > | | > | 1) Would the wing help?? | > | | > | 2) Where could I find one?? | > | | > | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a | used | > | one to get rid of? | > | | > | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if | > | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing | to | > | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. | > | | > | Thanks all, | > | | > | -JP | > | | > | | > | > | |

Response:

it’s the stock exhaust location.  comes out the side, behind the wheel.

>    Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear exit

exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! > You now know why… >     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them too.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | Hey all… > | > | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like > | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes in > | through the back window and into the cab. > | > | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air down > | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. > | > | So my two questions are: > | > | 1) Would the wing help?? > | > | 2) Where could I find one?? > | > | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a used > | one to get rid of? > | > | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if > | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing to > | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. > | > | Thanks all, > | > | -JP > | > |

Response:

It is generally recommended to keep the back window closed due to exhaust fumes.  The wing will reduce the dust on the back window but will not prevent some low pressure behind the vehicle.  Very hard to completely cancel the vacuum that is created by the body, so exhaust is pulled into that vacuum, then works its way into the passenger compartment. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey all… > I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like > driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes in > through the back window and into the cab. > I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air down > from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. > So my two questions are: > 1) Would the wing help?? > 2) Where could I find one?? > I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a used > one to get rid of? > I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if > someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing to > drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. > Thanks all, > -JP

Response:

Hey all… I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes in through the back window and into the cab. I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air down from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. So my two questions are: 1) Would the wing help?? 2) Where could I find one?? I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a used one to get rid of? I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing to drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. Thanks all, -JP

Response:

   Where do your tailpipes exit(or tailpipe if single exhaust)? Rear exit exhaust is a BIG no-no on an SUV!!! You now know why…     JCWhitney is a good source for ANY parts. I think LMC caries them too. | Hey all… | | I’m currently driving an ‘86 K5 Blazer.  I love the truck, and I like | driving with the windows all down, but when I do, it sucks exhaust fumes in | through the back window and into the cab. | | I’ve seen some K5’s with a ‘wing’ over the back window, diverting air down | from the roof.  This looks like it would do the trick. | | So my two questions are: | | 1) Would the wing help?? | | 2) Where could I find one?? | | I can’t seem to find a source on these things aftermarket, anyone got a used | one to get rid of? | | I’m actually looking for a rear top that has the sliding windows, and if | someone has one in White or Black with the wing attached, I’d be willing to | drive a while to pick it up.  I’m in the Atlanta area. | | Thanks all, | | -JP | |

Response:

Dissappointed in the 350

Question:

I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck market.

Response:

"Ric Bednar" wrote > I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

Your experience is the exception, not the rule with these engines.  I’ve hardly even seen the heads off these engines…especially at that kind of mileage. And I’ve never seen valve jobs and and/or stem seals replaced at that kind of mileage.  So you either got a bad one, or you or someone else is attempting to fix a non-existant problem. Ian

Response:

> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

I have never heard of those problems at that milage with that engine. Are you sure you did not leave a 2 or 3 off one end of the 38K miles?

Response:

> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

Never seen one need any interior engine work at that mileage. Very strange.  I have about 8 of them around here and none of them have less than 100K on them. The one in my van has 110K and still runs great. You may have gotten a Friday truck. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

    Valve Stem Seals at 38K? Not only is that abnormial, that and a "Vavle" job at that milage would lead me to beleave some one put used cylinder heads on it. Newer fast burn or Vortec heads are not known for cracking. I have seen 1 pair that  was. Each head from a different truck.     The only 350 heads that had cracking problems were 882 & 641 casting. I have a buddy that has 882’s on a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio 350. He’s put 50K on the engine since slaping it togher from parts laying around the junk yard. His problem is, he never cleaned the rust off of the vavles, and one has started to seize up when the truck sits longer then 3 months.     What cracks 350 heads, or any small block chevy heads, is being run while exceeding 260 degrees of cooliant tempiture. If you did that to your truck, and GM warenteed it, consider your self lucky. Warentees do not cover abuse. Charles

Response:

I have a 1999 K1500 with 56,000 miles on it. Oil changed at 3 to 4 thousand miles, runs like new and uses no oil. Smooth idle, smooth power. Mine is the normal for a 5.7 liter Chevy. And has never been apart. Brian

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

Response:

No, not valve SEALS – valve STEMS. He got new valve STEMS. Right after that they changed the bumper fluid. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Ric Bednar" wrote > I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market. > Your experience is the exception, not the rule with these engines.  I’ve > hardly > even seen the heads off these engines…especially at that kind of mileage. > And I’ve never seen valve jobs and and/or stem seals replaced at > that kind of mileage.  So you either got a bad one, or you or someone > else is attempting to fix a non-existant problem. > Ian

Response:

A chev 350 is generally tired at 200K+ A nissan titian would be lucky to make it to 100K The japs make good cars but they don’t have the redneck in ‘em to make a decent truck. ~KJ/TLGM 1990 GMC FS Jimmy 350CUI TBI w/ 114K & only oil changes.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

Response:

Interesting that you would want to compare a 5-year old truck to the new crop of Nissans and Toyotas.  Go back to 1999 and see what they used to import and tell me that they had anything even remotely comparable to a ChevyGMC full-sized… That aside, the repairs you experienced are quite abnormal for that motor. In fact, I would have a hard time believing that even an severely abused 350 would need a valve job before 40k miles.  Methinks someone is pulling the wool over your eyes. Just exactly what symptoms were you experiencing that made your mechanic say out of the blue "Oh yeah, you’re gonna need a valve job."? Cheers – Jonathan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

Response:

> A chev 350 is generally tired at 200K+ > A nissan titian would be lucky to make it to 100K > The japs make good cars but they don’t have the redneck in ‘em to make a > decent truck.

I beg to differ … Toyota has made excellent trucks for 20 years at least.

Response:

maybe If you woulda went backwards In years you woulda been ok.I have always had great luck with older 1970 up stuff.

Response:

> A chev 350 is generally tired at 200K+ > A nissan titian would be lucky to make it to 100K > The japs make good cars but they don’t have the redneck in ‘em to make a > decent truck.

Yall should go to Japan and see how the vehicle industry there is. Cars after 3 or 4 years are worth practically nothing. Government regulation, emissions testing and safety make it impossible to keep an older car unless you have alot of $ to keep it on the road. It’s not unusual to see a 4 year old car for sale like 10000yen (about $100). If there is rust or a dent, you need to fix it before passing. The emissions testing is something like 0 the first year, you pay 25% the next year (about $1000) then 50% 3rd year ($2000) then 75% then 100% on out. These are done EVERY year. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ~KJ/TLGM > 1990 GMC FS Jimmy 350CUI TBI w/ 114K & only oil changes. > I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

Response:

Response to the many replies: The GMC dealer did the work after several month of troubleshooting.  At first, they thought the cause was the fuel injectors, so after 5 fuel injector flushes and continuing problems, they determined the valve guides needed to be drilled out and new valves put in.  The dealer also said this actually is becomming more and more common for late model 5.7L engines.  They’ve seen a significant increase in valve jobs, regardless of mileage.  Unfotunately, mine was just one year out of warranty, even though I have very low mileage (38K is the correct odometer reading).   The valve job fixed the problem, the engine is running great again, so it’s safe to say this was the root cause. I like Tony 70000’s suggestion:  stick with the earlier model trucks (~ 1970  :-) ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it > came time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for > GM’s claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new > competition from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving > backward in the truck market.

Response:

Im a little hungover here so please bear with me. How did the dealer make th coralation between the injectors and the valves? Was the engine farting out of the intake? Did they do a compression test or a leakdown test? Why would the valve guides have to be replaced? Were the originals so badly worn out that they could not knurle the guides?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Response to the many replies: > The GMC dealer did the work after several month of troubleshooting.  At > first, they thought the cause was the fuel injectors, so after 5 fuel > injector flushes and continuing problems, they determined the valve > guides needed to be drilled out and new valves put in.  The dealer also > said this actually is becomming more and more common for late model 5.7L > engines.  They’ve seen a significant increase in valve jobs, regardless > of mileage.  Unfotunately, mine was just one year out of warranty, even > though I have very low mileage (38K is the correct odometer reading). > The valve job fixed the problem, the engine is running great again, so > it’s safe to say this was the root cause. > I like Tony 70000’s suggestion:  stick with the earlier model trucks (~ > 1970  :-) ) > I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it > came time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for > GM’s claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new > competition from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving > backward in the truck market.

Response:

The service engine code kept coming on and referencing stuck injectors.   After 5 trips to the dealer to flush the injectors, the problem continued.  The service crew had run into this before — for some reason, when the valves get gummed up and stick, the engine mgmt code that comes up points to the injectors.  I guess it was only through experience of having been there before and witnessing the same symptoms again that lead to them to the valves.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Im a little hungover here so please bear with me. How did the dealer make th >coralation between the injectors and the valves? Was the engine farting out >of the intake? Did they do a compression test or a leakdown test? Why would >the valve guides have to be replaced? Were the originals so badly worn out >that they could not knurle the guides? >Response to the many replies: >The GMC dealer did the work after several month of troubleshooting.  At >first, they thought the cause was the fuel injectors, so after 5 fuel >injector flushes and continuing problems, they determined the valve >guides needed to be drilled out and new valves put in.  The dealer also >said this actually is becomming more and more common for late model 5.7L >engines.  They’ve seen a significant increase in valve jobs, regardless >of mileage.  Unfotunately, mine was just one year out of warranty, even >though I have very low mileage (38K is the correct odometer reading). >The valve job fixed the problem, the engine is running great again, so >it’s safe to say this was the root cause. >I like Tony 70000’s suggestion:  stick with the earlier model trucks (~ >1970  :-) ) >>I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it >>came time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. >>5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a >>valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and >>had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for >>GM’s claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new >>competition from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving >>backward in the truck market.

Response:

But if the valves and guides were just carboned up, and the compression was good and didn’t leak down they could have at least attempted to run GM’s top engine cleaner through the motor. I’ve used it in the past and it works wonders on gummed up motors. Brian

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The service engine code kept coming on and referencing stuck injectors. > After 5 trips to the dealer to flush the injectors, the problem > continued.  The service crew had run into this before — for some > reason, when the valves get gummed up and stick, the engine mgmt code > that comes up points to the injectors.  I guess it was only through > experience of having been there before and witnessing the same symptoms > again that lead to them to the valves. >Im a little hungover here so please bear with me. How did the dealer make th >coralation between the injectors and the valves? Was the engine farting out >of the intake? Did they do a compression test or a leakdown test? Why would >the valve guides have to be replaced? Were the originals so badly worn out >that they could not knurle the guides? >>Response to the many replies: >>The GMC dealer did the work after several month of troubleshooting.  At >>first, they thought the cause was the fuel injectors, so after 5 fuel >>injector flushes and continuing problems, they determined the valve >>guides needed to be drilled out and new valves put in.  The dealer also >>said this actually is becomming more and more common for late model 5.7L >>engines.  They’ve seen a significant increase in valve jobs, regardless >>of mileage.  Unfotunately, mine was just one year out of warranty, even >>though I have very low mileage (38K is the correct odometer reading). >>The valve job fixed the problem, the engine is running great again, so >>it’s safe to say this was the root cause. >>I like Tony 70000’s suggestion:  stick with the earlier model trucks (~ >>1970  :-) ) >>>I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it >>>came time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. >>>5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a >>>valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and >>>had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for >>>GM’s claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new >>>competition from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving >>>backward in the truck market.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Response to the many replies: > The GMC dealer did the work after several month of troubleshooting.  At > first, they thought the cause was the fuel injectors, so after 5 fuel > injector flushes and continuing problems, they determined the valve > guides needed to be drilled out and new valves put in.  The dealer also > said this actually is becomming more and more common for late model 5.7L > engines.  They’ve seen a significant increase in valve jobs, regardless > of mileage.  Unfotunately, mine was just one year out of warranty, even > though I have very low mileage (38K is the correct odometer reading). > The valve job fixed the problem, the engine is running great again, so > it’s safe to say this was the root cause. > I like Tony 70000’s suggestion:  stick with the earlier model trucks (~ > 1970  :-) )

Three words: You Got Taken.

Response:

> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market.

..something else sets off my B.S. Meter… the 99 trucks no longer offered a 5.7L.  4.8 or 5.3L GenIII V8s, no more "classic" SBC. (or a 6L in a 3/4 ton) (unless it’s a Yukon or something – I believe those used the old engines for a bit longer, but the new series trucks swapped engine types at the redesign…) Ray

Response:

> But if the valves and guides were just carboned up, and the compression was > good and didn’t leak down they could have at least attempted to run GM’s top > engine cleaner through the motor. I’ve used it in the past and it works > wonders on gummed up motors. > Brian

there was some stuff we had sitting around the shop called 22K or 44K or something like that… supposedly worked like a champ, but the cans were old, so i didn’t want to try it.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >:|> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came >:|> time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. >:|> 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a >:|> valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and >:|> had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s >:|> claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition >:|> from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck >:|> market. >:|> >:| >:|..something else sets off my B.S. Meter… the 99 trucks no longer >:|offered a 5.7L.  4.8 or 5.3L GenIII V8s, no more "classic" SBC. >:|(or a 6L in a 3/4 ton) >:|

you could buy a c/k up until ‘00 as a C/K Classic w/ a 4.3, 305, or a 350.  they were sold right along side the Silverado/Sierra’s in ‘99 and ‘00. -Bret – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|(unless it’s a Yukon or something – I believe those used the old engines >:|for a bit longer, but the new series trucks swapped engine types at the >:|redesign…) >:| >:|Ray

Response:

44K I think is what your referring to, it’s manufactured by BG Products. It’s great stuff. Brian

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> But if the valves and guides were just carboned up, and the compression > was > good and didn’t leak down they could have at least attempted to run GM’s > top > engine cleaner through the motor. I’ve used it in the past and it works > wonders on gummed up motors. > Brian > there was some stuff we had sitting around the shop called 22K or 44K or > something like that… supposedly worked like a champ, but the cans were > old, so i didn’t want to try it.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > market. > ..something else sets off my B.S. Meter… the 99 trucks no longer > offered a 5.7L.  4.8 or 5.3L GenIII V8s, no more "classic" SBC. > (or a 6L in a 3/4 ton) > (unless it’s a Yukon or something – I believe those used the old engines > for a bit longer, but the new series trucks swapped engine types at the > redesign…) > Ray

Not true, I have a 1999 K1500 (not Silverado) that has a factory 5.7 liter in it. They consider this the early 99 as it looks like a 1998. The Silverado is considered the new 99 body and they came out in mid 1999 with the 4.8 and 5.3 liter. Mine was made in November of 1998. Brian

Response:

> 44K I think is what your referring to, it’s manufactured by BG Products. > It’s great stuff.

yep, that’s the stuff… there was this poster on the wall showing how clean it made the valves after using the stuff..  Damn, I’ve got a couple engines that could probably benefit from that stuff.   Too bad the guy went out of business… He also had a stockpile of this platinum-metering system for gasoline cars with carburetors… it would mix platinum with the fuel and supposedly made you get better gas mileage…

Response:

No I shouldn’t go see them. They should just go play there silly little gook games and leave my economy alone. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A chev 350 is generally tired at 200K+ > A nissan titian would be lucky to make it to 100K > The japs make good cars but they don’t have the redneck in ‘em to make a > decent truck. > Yall should go to Japan and see how the vehicle industry there is. > Cars after 3 or 4 years are worth practically nothing. Government > regulation, > emissions testing and safety make it impossible to keep an older car unless > you have alot of $ to keep it on the road. It’s not unusual to see a 4 year > old > car for sale like 10000yen (about $100). If there is rust or a dent, you > need to > fix it before passing. The emissions testing is something like 0 the first > year, > you pay 25% the next year (about $1000) then 50% 3rd year ($2000) then > 75% then 100% on out. These are done EVERY year. > ~KJ/TLGM > 1990 GMC FS Jimmy 350CUI TBI w/ 114K & only oil changes. > > I always heard praises of GM’s 350 V-8 while growing up, so when it came > > time to buy my own truck, I chose one with a good ol’ 350 (a.k.a. > > 5.7L).  It’s a 1999 GMC, and with only 38K miles, I just had to get a > > valve job and new valve stems.  I changed the oil every 3000 miles and > > had all scheduled maintenance performed by the dealer.  So much for GM’s > > claim of "the most reliable trucks on the road."  With new competition > > from Toyota and Nissan, GM sure seems to be moving backward in the truck > > market.

Response:

> A chev 350 is generally tired at 200K+ > A nissan titian would be lucky to make it to 100K > The japs make good cars but they don’t have the redneck in ‘em to make a > decent truck. > I beg to differ … Toyota has made excellent trucks for 20 years at

least. You mean red necks have been making toyotas excellent for the last 20 years. ~KJ/TLGM

Response:

steering wheel lose on 88 S15 Jimmy

Question:

> lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it.

I got it taken care of. And yes, I have another vehicle. A new Avalanche (without the body hardware). I drive the old truck in bad weather etc… Used a compression tool and sterring wheel puller. The only thing is I have to take it back apart since I didnt get the turn signal correct to change my headlight high beam. DOH! I also replaced the ignition switch while I was in there since it was hard to work sometimes, getting wore down to much. Thanks for all your help! (and to one of the previous posters, no, I dont use the steering wheel to pull myself into the truck!)

Response:

> Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. > Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the > wheel. > It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the > wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. > Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket > that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in > the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

Is that to just access the top 2? I never could figure how to get to those. I got the bottom 2 tight and now it’s as good as new. I guess if it happens again, I will try and figure out how to get to the top 2 screws. Mine is a tilt wheel.

Response:

>Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. >Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the >wheel. >It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the >wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. >Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket >that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in >the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. >A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

Try this link for a detailed expalnation of this procedure. http://www.necoa.org/article95.html

Response:

"Mesinpah"  wrote > Try this link for a detailed expalnation of this procedure. > http://www.necoa.org/article95.html

That’s an excellent link.  I was planning to do something similar, but why bother, that fellow has done a good job. Keep track of that link guys, as this question seems to come up once or twice every couple of months. Ian

Response:

"Repairman"  wrote > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

Not really.  I’d much rather work on a tilt column then the non-tilt columns.  Much easier to work on. Ian

Response:

He had looked for it, but was unable to find it. He took a good week looking for it too – because he purchased both the puller & the slide hammer specifically for this job. Not saying it’s the right way, just the way he did it. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In article > lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it. > I’m guessing he used the dent puller to remove the pivot bushings. > The correct tool (puller) probably sells for < $15.

Response:

> "Repairman"  wrote > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt. > Not really.  I’d much rather work on a tilt column then > the non-tilt columns.  Much easier to work on. > Ian

I have to replace the Wwiper switch in my 90 gmc 1/2 ton. I’ve been putting it off for almost a year now. Everything works except regular speed so I’ve gotten by with high-speed intermittent or full high-speed. I know it’s the switch because I can feel the indent is not there any more. I know I have to burrow heavily into the column and I believe the whole column has to be dropped slightly to feed the connector through. Maybe this summer, heh. B

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. >Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the >wheel. >It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the >wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. >Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket >that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in >the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. >A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt. > Try this link for a detailed expalnation of this procedure. > http://www.necoa.org/article95.html

That was an excellent link! Thanks. I will be pulling it back apart to do it right and fix my dimmer switch. Now the only thing wrong with my steering is that the wheel has left and right play it in. In other words and I can turn it left and right before it starts turning the wheels. Its about 1-2 inch play in it. I assume it may be the pitman arm or something underneath wore out. Amazing what you notice after driving a new vehicle!

Response:

> "KJ"  wrote > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel > puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ.

Yeah, if nothing else, the OP will get a nice lawn-decoration out of the experience.

Response:

> BTW by "dent puller" I mean a slide hammer. Those improper terms that you > grow up with are hard to re-learn…

it’s now known as a "master ignition key"… get it straight! D

Response:

> (and to one of the previous posters, no, I dont use the steering wheel to > pull myself into the truck!)

Oh come on… everyone in this group knows you do too! Don’t lie about it! LOL

Response:

In article > lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it.

I’m guessing he used the dent puller to remove the pivot bushings. The correct tool (puller) probably sells for < $15.

Response:

In article > Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. > Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the > wheel. > It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the > wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. > Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket > that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in > the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

The non-tilt columns don’t loosen up like the tilt columns do.

Response:

Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the wheel. It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt. — John "Anything you say can & will be misquoted & used against you" ‘01 FLHR "Red" ‘99 XC 700 ‘04 MXZ Adren. 600HO BRC  HOG

Response:

Actually its not the whole column but just the part that tilts – it goes left and right and up and down. Cant figure out how to get to it to tighten it up.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 88 S15 Jimmy 2WD > The steering wheel is really lose where it moves up and down and left and > right a lot. I am not driving it of course due to this. I have looked in the > CHILTON book and also looked around the steering column but cant figure out > how or what to take apart to tighten this up. Can anyone give me a clue as > to what is wrong and how to fix it? It is a tilt wheel if that matters as > well. > TIA, > Kevin

Response:

"cybercoaster"  wrote > Actually its not the whole column but just the part that tilts – it goes > left and right and up and down. Cant figure out how to get to it to tighten > it up.

Do fix it properly, you need to dis-assemble the column right down past the tilt section.  There are 4 bolts down there that always come loose, they need to be tightened up (preferably with some loctite). Ian

Response:

Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting hub ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the "J" bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column replaced (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to renew the "J" bolt slots. Once you have completed this repair you will know better than to ever use the steering wheel as a vehicle entry boost handle again.                                              Spud

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "cybercoaster"  wrote > Actually its not the whole column but just the part that tilts – it goes > left and right and up and down. Cant figure out how to get to it to > tighten > it up. > Do fix it properly, you need to dis-assemble the column > right down past the tilt section.  There are 4 bolts down > there that always come loose, they need to be tightened > up (preferably with some loctite). > Ian

Response:

"Spud" wrote > Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself > into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting hub > ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the "J" > bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. > The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column replaced > (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to > renew the "J" bolt slots.

What you describe "might" be what happened to you, but all the columns I’ve ever seen that are loose….are loose because of the four bolts at the base of the column.  They loosen up and back out.  There is no need for any "welding", just get down to the bolts, remove them, clean the threads and apply loctite and re-install. Ian

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Spud" wrote > Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself > into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting > hub > ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the > "J" > bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. > The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column > replaced > (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to > renew the "J" bolt slots. > What you describe "might" be what happened to you, but all the > columns I’ve ever seen that are loose….are loose because of the > four bolts at the base of the column.  They loosen up and back > out.  There is no need for any "welding", just get down to the > bolts, remove them, clean the threads and apply loctite and > re-install. > Ian

Response:

I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel puller and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Spud" wrote > Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself > into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting > hub > ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the > "J" > bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. > The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column > replaced > (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to > renew the "J" bolt slots. > What you describe "might" be what happened to you, but all the > columns I’ve ever seen that are loose….are loose because of the > four bolts at the base of the column.  They loosen up and back > out.  There is no need for any "welding", just get down to the > bolts, remove them, clean the threads and apply loctite and > re-install. > Ian

Response:

"KJ"  wrote > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience.

Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ. Ian

Response:

> I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > ~KJ/TLGM

Leave the dent puller at the body shop, only a theif  would go anywhere near a steering column with one. Like everyone says, 4 loose bolts are the problem. It’s an easy job once you’ve done a few… if you have the right tools. Little things like a lock plate compressor make the job a hell of a lot easier.                                                  Bob

Response:

lol All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic can do it. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "KJ"  wrote > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel > puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ. > Ian

Response:

BTW by "dent puller" I mean a slide hammer. Those improper terms that you grow up with are hard to re-learn… ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it. > ~KJ/TLGM > "KJ"  wrote > > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel > puller > > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion > that > > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do > it. > > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ. > Ian

Response:

I have a 88 S15 Jimmy 2WD The steering wheel is really lose where it moves up and down and left and right a lot. I am not driving it of course due to this. I have looked in the CHILTON book and also looked around the steering column but cant figure out how or what to take apart to tighten this up. Can anyone give me a clue as to what is wrong and how to fix it? It is a tilt wheel if that matters as well. TIA, Kevin

Response:

In article > lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it.

I’m guessing he used the dent puller to remove the pivot bushings. The correct tool (puller) probably sells for < $15.

Response:

In article > Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. > Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the > wheel. > It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the > wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. > Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket > that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in > the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

The non-tilt columns don’t loosen up like the tilt columns do.

Response:

there’s a trick little puller tool to used to get into the tilt system…my old boss gave me his extra one but have never needed to use it

Response:

> lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it.

I got it taken care of. And yes, I have another vehicle. A new Avalanche (without the body hardware). I drive the old truck in bad weather etc… Used a compression tool and sterring wheel puller. The only thing is I have to take it back apart since I didnt get the turn signal correct to change my headlight high beam. DOH! I also replaced the ignition switch while I was in there since it was hard to work sometimes, getting wore down to much. Thanks for all your help! (and to one of the previous posters, no, I dont use the steering wheel to pull myself into the truck!)

Response:

> Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. > Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the > wheel. > It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the > wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. > Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket > that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in > the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

Is that to just access the top 2? I never could figure how to get to those. I got the bottom 2 tight and now it’s as good as new. I guess if it happens again, I will try and figure out how to get to the top 2 screws. Mine is a tilt wheel.

Response:

> there’s a trick little puller tool to used to get into the tilt > system…my old boss gave me his extra one but have never needed to use > it

Then you can send it me?

Response:

>Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. >Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the >wheel. >It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the >wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. >Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket >that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in >the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. >A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

Try this link for a detailed expalnation of this procedure. http://www.necoa.org/article95.html

Response:

"Mesinpah"  wrote > Try this link for a detailed expalnation of this procedure. > http://www.necoa.org/article95.html

That’s an excellent link.  I was planning to do something similar, but why bother, that fellow has done a good job. Keep track of that link guys, as this question seems to come up once or twice every couple of months. Ian

Response:

"Repairman"  wrote > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt.

Not really.  I’d much rather work on a tilt column then the non-tilt columns.  Much easier to work on. Ian

Response:

He had looked for it, but was unable to find it. He took a good week looking for it too – because he purchased both the puller & the slide hammer specifically for this job. Not saying it’s the right way, just the way he did it. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In article > lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it. > I’m guessing he used the dent puller to remove the pivot bushings. > The correct tool (puller) probably sells for < $15.

Response:

> "Repairman"  wrote > A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt. > Not really.  I’d much rather work on a tilt column then > the non-tilt columns.  Much easier to work on. > Ian

I have to replace the Wwiper switch in my 90 gmc 1/2 ton. I’ve been putting it off for almost a year now. Everything works except regular speed so I’ve gotten by with high-speed intermittent or full high-speed. I know it’s the switch because I can feel the indent is not there any more. I know I have to burrow heavily into the column and I believe the whole column has to be dropped slightly to feed the connector through. Maybe this summer, heh. B

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. >Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the >wheel. >It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the >wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. >Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket >that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in >the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. >A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt. > Try this link for a detailed expalnation of this procedure. > http://www.necoa.org/article95.html

That was an excellent link! Thanks. I will be pulling it back apart to do it right and fix my dimmer switch. Now the only thing wrong with my steering is that the wheel has left and right play it in. In other words and I can turn it left and right before it starts turning the wheels. Its about 1-2 inch play in it. I assume it may be the pitman arm or something underneath wore out. Amazing what you notice after driving a new vehicle!

Response:

> "KJ"  wrote > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel > puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ.

Yeah, if nothing else, the OP will get a nice lawn-decoration out of the experience.

Response:

Just did one in a ‘89 S blazer. Yeah the 4 bolts where loose, my fatso brother hauls himself in via the wheel. It was a tilt wheel and the hardest part was pulling out the pins that the wheel tilts on as you need to remove that section to access the bolts. Shop manual shows a puller, I used a hardened screw, washers and a socket that fit over the pins to make a puller. It’s only machine screw threads in the hardened pins so be careful and gentle so ya don’t snap them off. A non tilt colum would be a breeze compaired to the tilt. — John "Anything you say can & will be misquoted & used against you" ‘01 FLHR "Red" ‘99 XC 700 ‘04 MXZ Adren. 600HO BRC  HOG

Response:

"KJ"  wrote > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience.

Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ. Ian

Response:

> I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > ~KJ/TLGM

Leave the dent puller at the body shop, only a theif  would go anywhere near a steering column with one. Like everyone says, 4 loose bolts are the problem. It’s an easy job once you’ve done a few… if you have the right tools. Little things like a lock plate compressor make the job a hell of a lot easier.                                                  Bob

Response:

lol All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic can do it. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "KJ"  wrote > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel > puller > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ. > Ian

Response:

BTW by "dent puller" I mean a slide hammer. Those improper terms that you grow up with are hard to re-learn… ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> lol > All I know is it was an ‘87 blazer. He bought a steering wheel puller & > jerry rigged whatever with that dent puller. > IMHO, the OP should be able to fix this if he just gets in there. He has > another vehicle obviously, so he has the time to experiment. I thought I > made it obvious that I don’t know the specifics, just that a home mechanic > can do it. > ~KJ/TLGM > "KJ"  wrote > > I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel > puller > > and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion > that > > needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* > > didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do > it. > > I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. > Well, I’ll defer to your steering column experience, there KJ. > Ian

Response:

I’ve seen it done before. I’d say the OP should get a steering wheel puller and a dent puller. One is obvious, the other there is *some* portion that needs to get pulled where a dent puller & a screw get it out nicely. *I* didn’t pull this column, but it was roughly described to me how to do it. I’d say just start takin it apart – a good learning experience. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Spud" wrote > Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself > into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting > hub > ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the > "J" > bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. > The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column > replaced > (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to > renew the "J" bolt slots. > What you describe "might" be what happened to you, but all the > columns I’ve ever seen that are loose….are loose because of the > four bolts at the base of the column.  They loosen up and back > out.  There is no need for any "welding", just get down to the > bolts, remove them, clean the threads and apply loctite and > re-install. > Ian

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Spud" wrote > Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself > into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting > hub > ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the > "J" > bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. > The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column > replaced > (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to > renew the "J" bolt slots. > What you describe "might" be what happened to you, but all the > columns I’ve ever seen that are loose….are loose because of the > four bolts at the base of the column.  They loosen up and back > out.  There is no need for any "welding", just get down to the > bolts, remove them, clean the threads and apply loctite and > re-install. > Ian

Response:

I have a 88 S15 Jimmy 2WD The steering wheel is really lose where it moves up and down and left and right a lot. I am not driving it of course due to this. I have looked in the CHILTON book and also looked around the steering column but cant figure out how or what to take apart to tighten this up. Can anyone give me a clue as to what is wrong and how to fix it? It is a tilt wheel if that matters as well. TIA, Kevin

Response:

Actually its not the whole column but just the part that tilts – it goes left and right and up and down. Cant figure out how to get to it to tighten it up.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 88 S15 Jimmy 2WD > The steering wheel is really lose where it moves up and down and left and > right a lot. I am not driving it of course due to this. I have looked in the > CHILTON book and also looked around the steering column but cant figure out > how or what to take apart to tighten this up. Can anyone give me a clue as > to what is wrong and how to fix it? It is a tilt wheel if that matters as > well. > TIA, > Kevin

Response:

"Spud" wrote > Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself > into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting hub > ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the "J" > bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. > The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column replaced > (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to > renew the "J" bolt slots.

What you describe "might" be what happened to you, but all the columns I’ve ever seen that are loose….are loose because of the four bolts at the base of the column.  They loosen up and back out.  There is no need for any "welding", just get down to the bolts, remove them, clean the threads and apply loctite and re-install. Ian

Response:

Been there, done that, It’s caused by grabbing the wheel to boost yourself into the truck. There are "J" bolts that hold the steering wheel tilting hub ( inc. turnsignal, ign, shifter) on to the column and you have torn the "J" bolt locking slots out of the top of the column tube. The steering wheel, hub, and column must be removed and the column replaced (if you can find one)or, as I did, repaired by welding new sections in to renew the "J" bolt slots. Once you have completed this repair you will know better than to ever use the steering wheel as a vehicle entry boost handle again.                                              Spud

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "cybercoaster"  wrote > Actually its not the whole column but just the part that tilts – it goes > left and right and up and down. Cant figure out how to get to it to > tighten > it up. > Do fix it properly, you need to dis-assemble the column > right down past the tilt section.  There are 4 bolts down > there that always come loose, they need to be tightened > up (preferably with some loctite). > Ian

Response:

"cybercoaster"  wrote > Actually its not the whole column but just the part that tilts – it goes > left and right and up and down. Cant figure out how to get to it to tighten > it up.

Do fix it properly, you need to dis-assemble the column right down past the tilt section.  There are 4 bolts down there that always come loose, they need to be tightened up (preferably with some loctite). Ian

Response:

How to fix yoke/spline clunk on stop/start by myself… pls help???

Question:

I have read about this problem before. But I have a question for others – would this apply to a 1990 GMC Jimmy? Feels like it’s doing the same thing ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Silv XCab Z71 > I have the usual clunk on stopping and starting.  It even had the > nickel-plated yoke installed to no avail. > Out of warranty now, I’m stuck paying for it myself. > I might try it myself, and I might take it to a local garage.  Can anyone > give me detailed instructions (possibly pics by email?) on how to do this? > These instructions will either be for me to do it or to make sure the local > garage knows exactly how to fix it. > e.g. What type of lubrication?  What to watch for… how to make it last the > longest… etc. > Also, > Does anyone know how to fix the squeaking steering wheel boot? > Again I’m going to have to do this all myself, so I’m looking for good > instructions for me or a local mech.  NOT a stealer.

Response:

> I have read about this problem before. But I have a question for others – > would this apply to a 1990 GMC Jimmy? Feels like it’s doing the same thing > > ~KJ/TLGM

It applies to pretty much every 87′ and later GM FS truck.  Yank the rear driveshaft, slap some grease in the yoke, and she’ll be quiet for 6-12 months depending on the type of grease. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Silv XCab Z71 > I have the usual clunk on stopping and starting.  It even had the > nickel-plated yoke installed to no avail. > Out of warranty now, I’m stuck paying for it myself. > I might try it myself, and I might take it to a local garage.  Can anyone > give me detailed instructions (possibly pics by email?) on how to do this? > These instructions will either be for me to do it or to make sure the > local > garage knows exactly how to fix it. > e.g. What type of lubrication?  What to watch for… how to make it last > the > longest… etc. > Also, > Does anyone know how to fix the squeaking steering wheel boot? > Again I’m going to have to do this all myself, so I’m looking for good > instructions for me or a local mech.  NOT a stealer.

Response:

> It applies to pretty much every 87′ and later GM FS truck.  Yank the rear > driveshaft, slap some grease in the yoke, and she’ll be quiet for 6-12 > months depending on the type of grease. > Doc

I thought it was just this, that’s why I haven’t been worried about it. ~TLGM/KJ

Response:

"99 Z71, and have had the problem since new,  dealer changed transfer case fluid and it took care of problem for awhile, but it came back, tried greasing splines with Mobil 1 and no good results, Changed transfer case fluid again using the AutoTrack (blue) fluid from GM and it’s taken care of the clunk for now , but rest assure, it’ll come back , usually in 6-9 months.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Silv XCab Z71 > I have the usual clunk on stopping and starting.  It even had the > nickel-plated yoke installed to no avail. > Out of warranty now, I’m stuck paying for it myself. > I might try it myself, and I might take it to a local garage.  Can anyone > give me detailed instructions (possibly pics by email?) on how to do this? > These instructions will either be for me to do it or to make sure the local > garage knows exactly how to fix it. > e.g. What type of lubrication?  What to watch for… how to make it last the > longest… etc. > Also, > Does anyone know how to fix the squeaking steering wheel boot? > Again I’m going to have to do this all myself, so I’m looking for good > instructions for me or a local mech.  NOT a stealer.

Response:

2000 Silv XCab Z71 I have the usual clunk on stopping and starting.  It even had the nickel-plated yoke installed to no avail. Out of warranty now, I’m stuck paying for it myself. I might try it myself, and I might take it to a local garage.  Can anyone give me detailed instructions (possibly pics by email?) on how to do this? These instructions will either be for me to do it or to make sure the local garage knows exactly how to fix it. e.g. What type of lubrication?  What to watch for… how to make it last the longest… etc. Also, Does anyone know how to fix the squeaking steering wheel boot? Again I’m going to have to do this all myself, so I’m looking for good instructions for me or a local mech.  NOT a stealer.

Response:

Ahh, see all those fancy good idea fixes dont last. The yoke has a binding problem, GM adds teflon to the ‘blue’ atf fluid to cure the problem and as a additive for the late model txfrcases. Try adding ‘TuffOil’ to the txfrcase. $9 , follow the instructions (1oz per Quart or some thing like that). Should stop the thumps in 50 or so miles. Its been working for me for the last  4 years. Never had grease anything, and probably never will. Cheers – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 2000 Silv XCab Z71 > I have the usual clunk on stopping and starting.  It even had the > nickel-plated yoke installed to no avail. > Out of warranty now, I’m stuck paying for it myself. > I might try it myself, and I might take it to a local garage.  Can anyone > give me detailed instructions (possibly pics by email?) on how to do this? > These instructions will either be for me to do it or to make sure the local > garage knows exactly how to fix it. > e.g. What type of lubrication?  What to watch for… how to make it last the > longest… etc. > Also, > Does anyone know how to fix the squeaking steering wheel boot? > Again I’m going to have to do this all myself, so I’m looking for good > instructions for me or a local mech.  NOT a stealer.

Response:

90 Suburban

Question:

Depends how bad you want it. I got my ‘90 GMC FS Jimmy down from 5K to 4.3K and took it because of low rot. Again, look at rear sill. Look along rockers, inside & out. Look inside all wheel wells. Look where the fire wall meets the floor, look in the corners of the 6" rise just behind the seats. ~KJ/TLGM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve owned a ‘90 Suburban 1500 since 1997.  Check inside the rear wheel > wells for rust and holes and also look under the tailgate at the rear > sill.  My rear sill was packed with mud and when I began removing the > mud, the rear sill fell apart (cost $1200 to replace).  The alternator > has a habit of burning up bearings (because the alterntor overheats) > but basically, nothing unusual under the hood.  I’ve had very few > serious problems with mine and after 182,000 miles, it runs very strong > (it had 87,000 miles on the odo when I bought it).  The truck holds > scads of cargo and I plan to keep it until some crazed female totals it > (that’s what usually causes me to get rid of a vehicle). > Just do a thorough check underneath for rust holes on the insides of the > rocker panels, fender wells and rear sill.  If the truck runs well nd > has no problems with rust, go for it (but I also think the price is a > bit steep because the book on it is around $2300) >I am thinking of buying a 1990 Chevy >Suburban. What should I pay attention to? All I >know is that it is a 1990 4X4 2500 (ps,ac, >pw,pl, etc), looks clean from picture. I will test >drive it this weekend. I will include a picture. >They are asking $5,000. >Thanks in advance! > There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor > traffic – the quick and the dead. > ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~ > Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol.  It is the great > equalizer.  ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~

Response:

 I’ve owned a ‘90 Suburban 1500 since 1997.  Check inside the rear wheel wells for rust and holes and also look under the tailgate at the rear sill.  My rear sill was packed with mud and when I began removing the mud, the rear sill fell apart (cost $1200 to replace).  The alternator has a habit of burning up bearings (because the alterntor overheats) but basically, nothing unusual under the hood.  I’ve had very few serious problems with mine and after 182,000 miles, it runs very strong (it had 87,000 miles on the odo when I bought it).  The truck holds scads of cargo and I plan to keep it until some crazed female totals it (that’s what usually causes me to get rid of a vehicle). Just do a thorough check underneath for rust holes on the insides of the rocker panels, fender wells and rear sill.  If the truck runs well nd has no problems with rust, go for it (but I also think the price is a bit steep because the book on it is around $2300)     >I am thinking of buying a 1990 Chevy >Suburban. What should I pay attention to? All I >know is that it is a 1990 4X4 2500 (ps,ac, >pw,pl, etc), looks clean from picture. I will test >drive it this weekend. I will include a picture. >They are asking $5,000. >Thanks in advance!

There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic – the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~ Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol.  It is the great equalizer.  ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~

Response:

I think that is a little high for a 90 Burb. I know of two loaded, almost perfect 2500, 4X4, 5.7, auto, Burb’s that were recently sold here. Both had front Bucket seats, with 2d and 3d seats, roof rack, front and rear heat/AC, mileage was close to 65,000 on both. The red ‘98, was an LS (cloth) with aftermarket lights, aluminum polished spoke wheels, radio/cassette/cd, and on-board GPS for $8500. The blue ‘97 was an LT (leather), radio/cassette/CD, stock wheels, stock lights for $8150. The paint and chrome was great on both, and although I didn’t get under them and check, both looked to have straight bodies, with no sign of being wrecked. The ‘98 was local NC vehicle and the ‘97 was a FL vehicle. I was interested because I have a 98 Burb and both of these were as good looking as mine. I can’t say for sure what their mechanical condition was but with the mileage and the way they looked they seem to have been taken care. A white loaded ‘98 Burb with 32,000 miles on it, sold for 15,500. But there is no way in Hell I would take less the $15000 for mine. — Diamond Jim "The Old Devil Dog"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am thinking of buying a 1990 Chevy Suburban. What should I pay attention > to? All I know is that it is a 1990 4X4 2500 (ps,ac, pw,pl, etc), looks > clean from picture. I will test drive it this weekend. I will include a > picture. They are asking $5,000. > Thanks in advance!

Response: