GMC FAQ » GMC Truck

GMC Canyon Accessory Power Outlets

admin — Tue, 08 Feb 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I have just leased a 2005 GMC Canyon Crew Cab. My problem relates to the Accessory Power Outlets (cigarette lighter slots) located under the heater. There are two and they both have a protective cap. I have a Nokia Cell Phone and use the in car charger. The problem is that the charger does not work in the new Canyon. I have tested the charger in three other vehicles and it works fine. I have taken the truck to the dealer and they said that there is power going to both outlets. When I insert the charger, it does not seem to seat correctly. When I push it in as far as it can go, the charger still moves around a lot more than it does in other vehicles. Has anyone else seen or heard of this problem? Any ideas on what to do about it? Thanks. Darren

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have just leased a 2005 GMC Canyon Crew Cab. > My problem relates to the Accessory Power Outlets (cigarette lighter slots) > located under the heater. There are two and they both have a protective > cap. > I have a Nokia Cell Phone and use the in car charger. The problem is that > the charger does not work in the new Canyon. > I have tested the charger in three other vehicles and it works fine. I have > taken the truck to the dealer and they said that there is power going to > both outlets. When I insert the charger, it does not seem to seat > correctly. When I push it in as far as it can go, the charger still moves > around a lot more than it does in other vehicles. Has anyone else seen or > heard of this problem? Any ideas on what to do about it? Thanks. > Darren

Keep pushing? Sometimes cell chargers have a small contact area for the ground, and so do the accessory power outlets in some cars, like my cell charger plug has to be aligned just right to work in my 300zx

Response:

Generator soundproofing — I will buy lead sheet

admin — Thu, 20 Jan 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i

It seems the Greater Sound Reduction (GSR) would occur at the boundary between air and solid (plywood or lead), rather than within a substance (my wag). GSR may be better if the lead squares are mounted on standoffs. A quick google did not answer whether my wag is true or false.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i > It seems the Greater Sound Reduction (GSR) would occur at the > boundary between air and solid (plywood or lead), rather than > within a substance (my wag). GSR may be better if the lead squares > are mounted on standoffs. A quick google did not answer whether my > wag is true or false.

In sound studio construction, the dead air in double wall construction is considered key. However, lead is in a special category, because it is extraordinarily efficient at absorbing vibration. I speculate that if the lead is mounted on standoffs, fatigue cracking will appear near the points of attachment. I have not seen freestanding lead used. In movie cameras, lead is applied directly to the inside of the film magazine, right up against the aluminum casting.

Response:

[ plenty snipped ] > > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which >However, lead is in a special category, because it is extraordinarily >efficient at absorbing vibration. >I have not seen freestanding lead used. >In movie cameras, lead is applied directly to the inside of the film >magazine, right up against the aluminum casting.

In the good Old Days before environmental concerns took hold, thick lead foil was commonly used as a sound baffle around pipes and other tricky and space constricted items. A favorite in NYC was wrapping it around incinerator chutes. — Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Response:

I believe this is a diesel generator and as such there are 2 things that need to be addressed before you start and that is the intake and exhaust. Did you know that most of the noise from a diesel somes from the intake and exhaust? As a matter of fact some diesel pickup trucks have a muffler on the air intake? At the Cummins school years ago they had a cummins diesel engine running at full power but the exhaust and intake were routed to outside the building. It was so quiet that one could carry on a normal conversation standing 2 feet away from the engine. Outside the building the noise level was quite impressive. Once you have the exhaust and intake directed to the outside, then you can attack if necessary the remaining noise levels of the motor. Don’t forget that the exhaust gases will get quite hot under load. Good Luck BTW Cummins and Onan are parts of the same company. Onan makes a great engine as does Cummins. r

Response:

I had a insulation installation company bring in for repair a trailer mounted insulation blower once. It was inside a 10×10x30 foot long trailer, and the engine, a B+S vanguard v-twin was about 6 feet inside the trailer rear door. The engine installer did a good job unstalling a duct in the floor to the cooling air inlet at the flywheel screen, and all was well until one day one of the workers knocked off the duct while moving supplies or something, we never found out. This missing duct allowed the engine cooling air to "recycle", i.e. the hot cooling air exhaust went back in to the cooling air intake. This was with a 10′x10′ door open only six feet away, mind you. After almost a full day with inadequate cooling the engine oil looked like tar and was about as thick. Total engine destruction due to inadequate cooling was the result. I hope you have provided a way for the engine to cool itself, the box you are describing sounds a lot like that trailer. Air cooled engines make about the same watts in heat as the generator makes electrical power, i.e. 5 kw generator makes 5 kw heated air Scott

Response:

[snip] > that I plan on addressing with some baffling. > I am also thinking of spraying or gluing some vibration absorber to > the sheet metal pieces on the engine. Would it make sense to you? > i

I have a feeling that the intense vibration would cause the stuff to degrade at an accelerated rate. Perhaps it would be manageable.

Response:

Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise. Local supplier of soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl). Lead side would face out (free of skin of machine.) This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db reduction at freq. At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., deliver, and collect. John

Response:

You don’t want to staple it. The staples will transfer the vibrations and therefore noise to the plywood. The best answer is some sort of glue like liquid nails. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise. Local supplier of > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl). Lead side would > face out (free of skin of machine.) > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db > reduction at freq. At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., > deliver, and collect. > Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm > thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". > i

Response:

3M spray on adhesive is great for that. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You don’t want to staple it. The staples will transfer the vibrations and > therefore noise to the plywood. The best answer is some sort of glue like > liquid nails. > . > > Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial > > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise. Local supplier of > > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of > > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl). Lead side would > > face out (free of skin of machine.) > > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db > > reduction at freq. At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., > > deliver, and collect. > Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm > thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". > i

Response:

A soft inside is important. You need to actually absorb the sound energy and turn it into heat. A hard enclosure will just bounce the sound around more until it comes out anyways. Some DIY audio shops sell a mat made to line the insides of speakers. It works very well on top of dense wood to absorb sound energy.

Response:

I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. Shaking head in amazement.

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > The lead will be inside the plywood compartment, not exposed to > elements.

Riiiiight.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where >> runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. >> My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of >> less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going >> out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope >> you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. >> Shaking head in amazement. > The lead will be inside the plywood compartment, not exposed to > elements. > Riiiiight.

Lead is still used AFAIK as a roofing material. Very much in evidence on historic buildings. Also concider the number of houses STILL served by lead waterpipes. Does it degrade at all? Is this not one of the big problems with the stuff?

Response:

3M is the leader in adhesives. or Marine products http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/manufacturing_industry/engin… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You don’t want to staple it. The staples will transfer the vibrations and > therefore noise to the plywood. The best answer is some sort of glue like > liquid nails. > Thanks. I would like to know what is the source of your knowledge. > Specifically, how do you know that liquid nails would in fact hold > lead and would not separate. > i > . >> > Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial >> > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise. Local supplier of >> > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of >> > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl). Lead side would >> > face out (free of skin of machine.) >> > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db >> > reduction at freq. At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., >> > deliver, and collect. >> Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm >> thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". >> i > —

Response:

The glue type was a shot in the dark. The no holes came from an acoustical engineer on a bus conversion my father and grandfather did and the lead was on the floor so holding it in position was easy. The engineer did say if you must have nails, glue a small piece of lead over the heads.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You don’t want to staple it. The staples will transfer the vibrations and > therefore noise to the plywood. The best answer is some sort of glue like > liquid nails. > Thanks. I would like to know what is the source of your knowledge. > Specifically, how do you know that liquid nails would in fact hold > lead and would not separate. > i > .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> > Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial >> > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise. Local supplier of >> > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of >> > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl). Lead side would >> > face out (free of skin of machine.) >> > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db >> > reduction at freq. At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., >> > deliver, and collect. >> Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm >> thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". >> i > —

Response:

The reason they are getting rid of it in solder has to do with the inability to insure correct disposal of electronic devices, not the presence of lead in operating ones. I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount of it.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > The reason they are getting rid of it in solder has to do with the > inability > to insure correct disposal of electronic devices, not the presence of > lead > in operating ones. > I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount > of it.

And yet seeping water in landfills is exactly why the EU is making it illegal. Go figure.

Response:

> I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount of it.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > The reason they are getting rid of it in solder has to do with the > inability to insure correct disposal of electronic devices, not the > presence of lead in operating ones. > I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount > of it.

Could give these guys a try instead of lead: http://www.dynamat.com/ -Bruce

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of less than an > ounce of lead in our products, and you are going out and exposing several > pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement.

Lead occurs in nature. What was God thinking???

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I am soundproofing this generator: >> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ >> This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. >> I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per >> square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which >> works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" >> plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can >> accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 >> sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges >> better. >> If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if >> I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset >> at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel >> noise. >> If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly >> thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early >> tomorrow. >> Thanks, as always, >> i > I believe this is a diesel generator and as such there are 2 things > that need to be addressed before you start and that is the intake and > exhaust. Did you know that most of the noise from a diesel somes from > the intake and exhaust? > The exhaust issue has been addressed. I have a tractor muffler that is > surprisingly quiet. I ran my genset in the garage and routed exhaust > outside. It was almost completely quiet. > The intake of air is a good question, but, given relatively low HP and > volume (70 ci, 1800 RPM), it is not much.

Whatever goes out must come in, so I would route the air intake from the outside as well. That should reduce noise a significant amount. > What is much more serious is the fact that this engine is > aircooled. It sucks cold air in from the side that says ONAN in big > letters, and exhausts warm air from the back. I route that air > outside with the help of some HVAC stuff.

Not only is the engine air cooled, so is the alternator. The fan noise would be rather loud. If it were me, I would build a "dog house" for it outside. When I needed it I would take the doors off and fire it up. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As a matter of fact some diesel pickup trucks have a muffler on > the air intake? At the Cummins school years ago they had a cummins > diesel engine running at full power but the exhaust and intake were > routed to outside the building. It was so quiet that one could carry > on a normal conversation standing 2 feet away from the engine. Outside > the building the noise level was quite impressive. Once you have the > exhaust and intake directed to the outside, then you can attack if > necessary the remaining noise levels of the motor. Don’t forget that > the exhaust gases will get quite hot under load. > Thanks. Exhaust has been taken care of. Cooling is an open question > that I plan on addressing with some baffling. > I am also thinking of spraying or gluing some vibration absorber to > the sheet metal pieces on the engine. Would it make sense to you? > i

What seems obvious sometimes isn’t the solution. It will take some careful analysis to properly quite down the critter. There is a reason why all the data centers I have seen have their generators outside and isolated from the main buiilding. I assume you are determined to keep it indoors. When you get it to the point where the fan noise is most of what you hear, you are getting close. A cheap RS SPL meter might help locate the noise sources. When you get it to the point where the fan noise is the primary culprit, you will likely have to build a sound isolation booth for it with proper air intake and exhaust for cooling the alternator and engine. Don’t forget to calculate back pressure on the exhaust system. One elbow is the equivalent of adding something like 10 to 20 feet of pipe. Too little backpressure is as bad as not enough. Applying sound absorbant material to the engine covers might be helpful in reducing valve train noise but that could be detrimental to the proper cooling of an engine. When we would dyno test 871 GMC diesels it would be before the engine was painted. After painting the engine, we would test it once more and the coolant temp would go up about 15 degrees when under full load. I keep imagining an old printer sound booth only on a bigger scale for your application. You might try wrapping the exhaust pipe with some asbestos like wrap to keep the noise down as well. Tap it with a screwdriver and see if it rings. Sound travels through steel much faster than through air. Did you call you local Onan dealer to see if Onan makes a low noise kit for that genpack? You could call the factory and see what they have to say about it. They like talking to customers. My son talked to the founders son or grandson and he is a nice guy. He was also the current head honcho at the time. r

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of less than > an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going out and exposing > several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > Lead occurs in nature. What was God thinking???

And Arsenic and Ebola and the radioactive isotopes all occur in nature as well. But God didn’t refine them or displace them to the point of being dangerous. We did that to ourselves.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>> I am soundproofing this generator: >>>> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ >>>> This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. >>>> I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per >>>> square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which >>>> works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" >>>> plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can >>>> accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on >>>> 5 sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges >>>> better. >>>> If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, >>>> if I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded >>>> genset at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 >>>> decibel noise. >>>> If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be >>>> greatly thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo >>>> there early tomorrow. >>>> Thanks, as always, >>>> i >>> I believe this is a diesel generator and as such there are 2 things >>> that need to be addressed before you start and that is the intake and >>> exhaust. Did you know that most of the noise from a diesel somes >>> from the intake and exhaust? >> The exhaust issue has been addressed. I have a tractor muffler that is >> surprisingly quiet. I ran my genset in the garage and routed exhaust >> outside. It was almost completely quiet. >> The intake of air is a good question, but, given relatively low HP and >> volume (70 ci, 1800 RPM), it is not much. > Whatever goes out must come in, so I would route the air intake from > the outside as well. That should reduce noise a significant amount. > Agreed. >> What is much more serious is the fact that this engine is >> aircooled. It sucks cold air in from the side that says ONAN in big >> letters, and exhausts warm air from the back. I route that air >> outside with the help of some HVAC stuff. > Not only is the engine air cooled, so is the alternator. The fan noise > would be rather loud. If it were me, I would build a "dog house" for > it outside. When I needed it I would take the doors off and fire it > up. > Yes, it will be outside, and I did build the dog house > see > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/Enclosure

Great pics. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> As a matter of fact some diesel pickup trucks have a muffler on >>> the air intake? At the Cummins school years ago they had a cummins >>> diesel engine running at full power but the exhaust and intake were >>> routed to outside the building. It was so quiet that one could carry >>> on a normal conversation standing 2 feet away from the engine. >>> Outside the building the noise level was quite impressive. Once you >>> have the exhaust and intake directed to the outside, then you can >>> attack if necessary the remaining noise levels of the motor. Don’t >>> forget that the exhaust gases will get quite hot under load. >> Thanks. Exhaust has been taken care of. Cooling is an open question >> that I plan on addressing with some baffling. >> I am also thinking of spraying or gluing some vibration absorber to >> the sheet metal pieces on the engine. Would it make sense to you? >> i > What seems obvious sometimes isn’t the solution. It will take some > careful analysis to properly quite down the critter. There is a reason > why all the data centers I have seen have their generators outside and > isolated from the main buiilding. I assume you are determined to keep > it indoors. > No, I am determined to keep it outdoors.

my apologies…i misunderstood. > When you get it to the point where the fan noise is most of what > you hear, you are getting close. A cheap RS SPL meter might help > locate the noise sources. > I have a digital SPL meter.

that will work fine. Point it at different areas and see what needs work. Some thick foam rubber will quiet down your plywood enclosure. Maybe some syrofoam insulboard will work. > All I know is that Onan parts for my 26 year old genset are very > expensive. > i

Onan parts are expensive no matter what. Thankfully they don’t break often. There were 3rd party parts suppliers but I don’t know if they still exist. I have an 18 Hp Onan gas engine on my lawn tractor. Runs great and will likely outlast me. I had to buy 2 exhaust pipes and two mufflers for it this year. Cost me in excess of $120.00. I almost made the pipes myself but I needed it in a hurry. r

Response:

207.115.63.158: > Air cooled engines make about the same watts in heat as the generator makes > electrical power, i.e. 5 kw generator makes 5 kw heated air > Scott

Yes, that is true. We would figure the electric bill for computers and add that same dollar amount for AC to keep it cool. It was within pennies of each other. r

Response:

> 207.115.63.158: > Air cooled engines make about the same watts in heat as the generator > makes > electrical power, i.e. 5 kw generator makes 5 kw heated air > Scott > Yes, that is true. > We would figure the electric bill for computers and add that same > dollar > amount for AC to keep it cool. It was within pennies of each other.

Well, ALL of the power that goes into computer equipment ultimately leaves the other end of the equation as heat.

Response:

Braking concern on Sunfire 2000

admin — Wed, 15 Sep 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >That is a good point! However, according to her, the AC was not ON during >that time. I will check this AC cycling ON and OFF myself to see if I can >duplicate the problem. > > I sometimes drive a 99 GMC 3/4 ton, at work, that does the same thing. My > theory is that when the a/c kicks on or off, the rpm’s change enough to > cause the truck to move a little. Not my truck, so I haven’t really > investigated it but that’s what it feels like. If I make the concious >effort > to press the pedal a little harder at stop lights, it doesn’t move. > H

The windshield defog automatically activates the A/C Just a thought.

Response:

Thanks for the input. Some info I got from the internet points to the same direction. Jasper – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This problem of mine might be related. I have Pontiac Montana 2001 and I > recently noticed that whenever I brake to come to a full stop, I can > feel pulsating vibration like I am hitting a "regularly intervaled small > bumps". I can feel it not from the brake pedal so I guess it is from > something else. > Could someone give me some pointers about this problem before I go to my > mechanic? I would really appreciate it. > That sounds more like warped rotors. Depending on how worn and warped > they are, a mechanic MIGHT be able to turn them and smooth things out. > However, you may need replacements.

Response:

This problem of mine might be related. I have Pontiac Montana 2001 and I recently noticed that whenever I brake to come to a full stop, I can feel pulsating vibration like I am hitting a "regularly intervaled small bumps". I can feel it not from the brake pedal so I guess it is from something else. Could someone give me some pointers about this problem before I go to my mechanic? I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Jasper (PS: To reply, please remove "nospam". Thanks.) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->We have a Pontiac Sunfire year 2000. My wife has been complaining "on > and >off" about vehicle braking problem that it slip from time to time with no >specific pattern (day or night, rain day or hot condition) . Basically > she >said that when she apply the brake at the stop sign or red light, sometime >it would slip once causing the car to take off then stop. No ABS pump > noise >and no wheel lock. I have the car brake done a month ago with new rotors >and new pad (old one were worn and old rotors rust a bit but still >acceptable from vehicle safety inspection point of view), rear brake shoes >are like new. This vehicle has ABS and traction control that always on >while she is driving. I took the car out for test drive many times and >could not duplicate the problem. I believe her braking diagnostic problem >because she is usually never wrong about car develop new symptom that is > out >of the norm. My driving habit and her is not the same as she is gentle > with >her acceleration and stopping but that should not be a factor. Does > anyone >has similar braking concern as this and how did you solve it? > I sometimes drive a 99 GMC 3/4 ton, at work, that does the same thing. My > theory is that when the a/c kicks on or off, the rpm’s change enough to > cause the truck to move a little. Not my truck, so I haven’t really > investigated it but that’s what it feels like. If I make the concious effort > to press the pedal a little harder at stop lights, it doesn’t move. > H

Response:

> This problem of mine might be related. I have Pontiac Montana 2001 and I > recently noticed that whenever I brake to come to a full stop, I can > feel pulsating vibration like I am hitting a "regularly intervaled small > bumps". I can feel it not from the brake pedal so I guess it is from > something else. > Could someone give me some pointers about this problem before I go to my > mechanic? I would really appreciate it.

That sounds more like warped rotors. Depending on how worn and warped they are, a mechanic MIGHT be able to turn them and smooth things out. However, you may need replacements. — E-mail fudged to thwart spammers. Transpose the c’s and a’s in my e-mail address to reply.

Response:

That is a good point! However, according to her, the AC was not ON during that time. I will check this AC cycling ON and OFF myself to see if I can duplicate the problem.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a Pontiac Sunfire year 2000. My wife has been complaining "on > and > off" about vehicle braking problem that it slip from time to time with no > specific pattern (day or night, rain day or hot condition) . Basically > she > said that when she apply the brake at the stop sign or red light, sometime > it would slip once causing the car to take off then stop. No ABS pump > noise > and no wheel lock. I have the car brake done a month ago with new rotors > and new pad (old one were worn and old rotors rust a bit but still > acceptable from vehicle safety inspection point of view), rear brake shoes > are like new. This vehicle has ABS and traction control that always on > while she is driving. I took the car out for test drive many times and > could not duplicate the problem. I believe her braking diagnostic problem > because she is usually never wrong about car develop new symptom that is > out > of the norm. My driving habit and her is not the same as she is gentle > with > her acceleration and stopping but that should not be a factor. Does > anyone > has similar braking concern as this and how did you solve it? > I sometimes drive a 99 GMC 3/4 ton, at work, that does the same thing. My > theory is that when the a/c kicks on or off, the rpm’s change enough to > cause the truck to move a little. Not my truck, so I haven’t really > investigated it but that’s what it feels like. If I make the concious effort > to press the pedal a little harder at stop lights, it doesn’t move. > H

Response:

We have a Pontiac Sunfire year 2000. My wife has been complaining "on and off" about vehicle braking problem that it slip from time to time with no specific pattern (day or night, rain day or hot condition) . Basically she said that when she apply the brake at the stop sign or red light, sometime it would slip once causing the car to take off then stop. No ABS pump noise and no wheel lock. I have the car brake done a month ago with new rotors and new pad (old one were worn and old rotors rust a bit but still acceptable from vehicle safety inspection point of view), rear brake shoes are like new. This vehicle has ABS and traction control that always on while she is driving. I took the car out for test drive many times and could not duplicate the problem. I believe her braking diagnostic problem because she is usually never wrong about car develop new symptom that is out of the norm. My driving habit and her is not the same as she is gentle with her acceleration and stopping but that should not be a factor. Does anyone has similar braking concern as this and how did you solve it?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a Pontiac Sunfire year 2000. My wife has been complaining "on and > off" about vehicle braking problem that it slip from time to time with no > specific pattern (day or night, rain day or hot condition) . Basically she > said that when she apply the brake at the stop sign or red light, sometime > it would slip once causing the car to take off then stop. No ABS pump noise > and no wheel lock. I have the car brake done a month ago with new rotors > and new pad (old one were worn and old rotors rust a bit but still > acceptable from vehicle safety inspection point of view), rear brake shoes > are like new. This vehicle has ABS and traction control that always on > while she is driving. I took the car out for test drive many times and > could not duplicate the problem. I believe her braking diagnostic problem > because she is usually never wrong about car develop new symptom that is out > of the norm. My driving habit and her is not the same as she is gentle with > her acceleration and stopping but that should not be a factor. Does anyone > has similar braking concern as this and how did you solve it?

I sometimes drive a 99 GMC 3/4 ton, at work, that does the same thing. My theory is that when the a/c kicks on or off, the rpm’s change enough to cause the truck to move a little. Not my truck, so I haven’t really investigated it but that’s what it feels like. If I make the concious effort to press the pedal a little harder at stop lights, it doesn’t move. H

Response:

Question about My New truck!

admin — Sun, 22 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

> Old thread revival. > My parents were too cheap to pay for carpet or cloth seats so I figured if > theirs leaked it wasn’t going to hurt anything anyway, the vinyl seats and > rubber floor covering are pretty water resistant.

It’s very much so fun to run without the top! However I have carpet and cloth seats, so I never let it get rained on. GMC Gremlin

Response:

Yes! It is nice. They weren’t given to me. I work 55 + hours a week to get them. Being a Tool Maker in Michigan doesn’t heart either. When the hours aren’t there in the Tool trade, I do side jobs, like Construction & Cement work.

Must be nice to be able to afford new trks, the best I can do is a 88Blazer but it has new motor &tranny in it. Also got an 85 K20 3/4 ton !39xxx mi on it motor neve been apart runns great finally had to put new clutch in it stuff just dont last lol lol.

Response:

Uhm…. mine leaked when it was a virgin top and stoped after I removed it. Now I have a cloth top and my hard top and neither leak…. GMC Gremlin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I aint about to take the top off mine it dont leak and i dont want it to > start. Thats what happens with T tops off& on ruins the gaskets.

Response:

> Uhm…. mine leaked when it was a virgin top and stoped after I removed > it. Now I have a cloth top and my hard top and neither leak…. > GMC Gremlin > I aint about to take the top off mine it dont leak and i dont want it to > start. Thats what happens with T tops off& on ruins the gaskets.

Old thread revival. My parents were too cheap to pay for carpet or cloth seats so I figured if theirs leaked it wasn’t going to hurt anything anyway, the vinyl seats and rubber floor covering are pretty water resistant.

Response:

I aint about to take the top off mine it dont leak and i dont want it to start. Thats what happens with T tops off& on ruins the gaskets.

Response:

> I aint about to take the top off mine it dont leak and i dont want it to > start. Thats what happens with T tops off& on ruins the gaskets.

I always told them since it didn’t have any carpet and had vinly seats there wasn’t anything to hurt getting wet. If only GM would bring back the two door, removable top blazers I’d have to buy one, until then I’ll just keep what I have now, don’t see any new ones I like.

Response:

>Well I just got a new 2004 Silverado long bed LS. It has everything I could ever need in it, I can hit a button and the side mirrors fold in. I went with the 5.3 L engine. The sales person told me it has 295 HP is this right? >It runs like a scolded dog. But it doesn’t seam to have the low end power my 2002 Z-71 had with the same engine? Must be the gear ratio. I had the 5.7 in my 2000 Z-71. A friend talked me into the 5.3 in 2002. I could tell the difference in power but it was acceptable. The MPG was worth the trade. > Was the 2000 a 1/2-ton? If so, you didn’t have the 5.7, it was discontinued in the 1/2-ton trucks in 99 with the new design. Your truck has 285 HP, the 295 rating is in the vans. I bet the 2002 was a 3.73, with the Z71 package. If the 2004 isn’t a Z71, the base gears are 3.42 or even higher (lower number), accounting for the better economy. My first sentence MAY be wrong, if the 3/4-ton was offered with the Z71 package (I doubt it though)… >The MPG is better than the 2002 and it was good for what it was. I have been getting an average of 18 to 19 MPG around town. With the price of gas today that’s not bad for a full size truck. I fell it would do better if I could kept my led foot of the peddle. I’m amazed they can get that much power and speed out of an engine and get that good gas mileage. I can’t wait to take it on a long trip to see what kind of mileage I can get. > >I wish my push guard of the 2002 would fit the 2004 can’t have everything. The 98 GMC & 2000 GMC were 1/2 ton HD with toe pacages. It said it was a 5.7 under the hood of the 98. And the 2000 said it was a 5.3 under the hood. The dealer booklet said it was 300 HP. The 2002 Chevy was a 5.7 300 HP. 1 Ton Express Van. The 2004 Chevy is a 5.3 295 HP. It would out run any of them, but it isn’t a 4X4. I do remember having the opption of the 5.7 in the 2000. I went with the 5.3 because of gas milage.

Response:

> Must be nice to be able to afford new trks, the best I can do is a > 88Blazer but it has new motor &tranny in it. Also got an 85 K20 3/4 ton > !39xxx mi on it motor neve been apart runns great finally had to put new > clutch in it stuff just dont last lol lol.

I have never bought a new truck, but if my wife wouldn’t kill me I’d love to have an old k5. Took my drivers test in my parents 79, never could talk them into letting me drive it topless though.

Response:

Well I just got a new 2004 Silverado long bed LS. It has everything I could ever need in it, I can hit a button and the side mirrors fold in. I went with the 5.3 L engine. The sales person told me it has 295 HP is this right? It runs like a scolded dog. But it doesn’t seam to have the low end power my 2002 Z-71 had with the same engine? Must be the gear ratio. I had the 5.7 in my 2000 Z-71. A friend talked me into the 5.3 in 2002. I could tell the difference in power but it was acceptable. The MPG was worth the trade. The MPG is better than the 2002 and it was good for what it was. I have been getting an average of 18 to 19 MPG around town. With the price of gas today that’s not bad for a full size truck. I fell it would do better if I could kept my led foot of the peddle. I’m amazed they can get that much power and speed out of an engine and get that good gas mileage. I can’t wait to take it on a long trip to see what kind of mileage I can get. I wish my push guard of the 2002 would fit the 2004 can’t have everything.

Response:

Was the 2000 a 1/2-ton? If so, you didn’t have the 5.7, it was discontinued in the 1/2-ton trucks in 99 with the new design. Your truck has 285 HP, the 295 rating is in the vans. I bet the 2002 was a 3.73, with the Z71 package. If the 2004 isn’t a Z71, the base gears are 3.42 or even higher (lower number), accounting for the better economy. My first sentence MAY be wrong, if the 3/4-ton was offered with the Z71 package (I doubt it though)… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The MPG is better than the 2002 and it was good for what it was. I have been getting an average of 18 to 19 MPG around town. With the price of gas today that’s not bad for a full size truck. I fell it would do better if I could kept my led foot of the peddle. I’m amazed they can get that much power and speed out of an engine and get that good gas mileage. I can’t wait to take it on a long trip to see what kind of mileage I can get. >I wish my push guard of the 2002 would fit the 2004 can’t have everything.

Response:

'92 GMC failing idle HC smog test in California

admin — Sun, 15 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Don’t get me started on Calif’s new pissassed smog BS.. Those dirty rotten bureaucratic mofo’s need to keep adding more tests and tighter limits so they can justify their pencil pushing jobs….Got a "Test Only" notice this time around and I have a new engine in the 91 S-10 Please Arnold…FIRE THEM ALL

Response:

> Please Arnold…FIRE THEM ALL

Don’t you really want to say "Terminate" them?

Response:

Just as long as they don’t have a chance to say: "We’ll be back"

Response:

the California idle smog test. The test allows 120 Maximum HC (PPM) and my truck tested 175. The oil was clean at the time of the test. The 2500 rpm test for HC shows only 24 PPM out of an allowable limit of 180 PPM, so it is fine at higher rpm’s. I have since installed a new air filter (the old one wasn’t in bad shape) and changed the spark plugs. After changing the plugs, I waited until dark and started the truck to see if I could see any arcing from the plug wires. None was apparent at idle, but when I revved the motor to approx 2500 rpm, I did see 4 or 5 blue flashes at various points. I plan to change out the plug wires and then retest. Here are my questions for the group: 1. Is it likely that changing out the plug wires will help? BTW, they are OEM and have never been changed. 2. How do you test the oxygen sensor, and if it was bad, would it cause the idle test failure? 3. Any other tricks for passing smog would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help. These California smog tests are a nightmare if you don’t pass! Dennis" Dennis I think you answered your own question.Replace those old wires and make sure they are routed properly.How about the cap and rotor? They 12 years old too?replace them if they are worn.Check for vacuum leaks.<—- (real important)There is a process to check for vac.leaks with a volt-meter on some f.i. vehicles. How is your idle,is it nice and smooth or are there misses? I’m sure I’ll be corrected if wrong,but high HC is caused by misses or too rich a mixture and if you have arching wires,well,it’s kinda obvious,but get a nice smooth idle and you should pass.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > the California idle smog test. The test allows 120 Maximum HC (PPM) and > my truck tested 175. The oil was clean at the time of the test. The 2500 > rpm test for HC shows only 24 PPM out of an allowable limit of 180 PPM, > so it is fine at higher rpm’s. I have since installed a new air filter > (the old one wasn’t in bad shape) and changed the spark plugs. After > changing the plugs, I waited until dark and started the truck to see if > I could see any arcing from the plug wires. None was apparent at idle, > but when I revved the motor to approx 2500 rpm, I did see 4 or 5 blue > flashes at various points. I plan to change out the plug wires and then > retest. > Here are my questions for the group: > 1. Is it likely that changing out the plug wires will help? BTW, they > are OEM and have never been changed. > 2. How do you test the oxygen sensor, and if it was bad, would it cause > the idle test failure? > 3. Any other tricks for passing smog would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks in advance for your help. These California smog tests are a > nightmare if you don’t pass! > Dennis" > Dennis I think you answered your own question.Replace those old wires > and make sure they are routed properly.How about the cap and rotor? They > 12 years old too?replace them if they are worn.Check for vacuum > leaks.<—- (real important)There is a process to check for vac.leaks > with a volt-meter on some f.i. vehicles. > How is your idle,is it nice and smooth or are there misses? > I’m sure I’ll be corrected if wrong,but high HC is caused by misses or > too rich a mixture and if you have arching wires,well,it’s kinda > obvious,but get a nice smooth idle and you should pass.

If you can see arcing on the wires you need to replace them anyway.

Response:

> Dennis I think you answered your own question.Replace those old wires > and make sure they are routed properly.How about the cap and rotor? They > 12 years old too?replace them if they are worn.Check for vacuum > leaks.<—- (real important)There is a process to check for vac.leaks > with a volt-meter on some f.i. vehicles. > How is your idle,is it nice and smooth or are there misses? > I’m sure I’ll be corrected if wrong,but high HC is caused by misses or > too rich a mixture and if you have arching wires,well,it’s kinda > obvious,but get a nice smooth idle and you should pass.

Brian: Cap & rotor were replaced about 6 months ago when I R&R’ed the intake manifold gasket (what a fun job!). Idle is a tad bit rough. I’ll try the plug wires and see how that improves things. It’s a tough call because I didn’t really notice the truck running poorly in the first place. I do know this, it’s going to cost $30 each time I retry the smog test, so I’d like to get it in the best shape possible (without spending a fortune) before I try again. Thanks for your reply. Dennis

Response:

Anything that causes a missfire will raise HC — ignition, valves, leaky intake gaskets. Sounds like you need attention to the ignition. I’d be surprised if it’s your oxy sensor. When mine failed, it failed across the rpm range. It would go in and out of closed loop. A scanner would tell. Dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My ‘92 GMC 1/2 Ton 4X4 (350) with 140K miles is failing the California >idle smog test. The test allows 120 Maximum HC (PPM) and my truck >tested 175. The oil was clean at the time of the test. The 2500 rpm >test for HC shows only 24 PPM out of an allowable limit of 180 PPM, so >it is fine at higher rpm’s. I have since installed a new air filter >(the old one wasn’t in bad shape) and changed the spark plugs. After >changing the plugs, I waited until dark and started the truck to see >if I could see any arcing from the plug wires. None was apparent at >idle, but when I revved the motor to approx 2500 rpm, I did see 4 or >5 blue flashes at various points. I plan to change out the plug wires >and then retest. >Here are my questions for the group: >1. Is it likely that changing out the plug wires will help? BTW, >they are OEM and have never been changed. >2. How do you test the oxygen sensor, and if it was bad, would it >cause the idle test failure? >3. Any other tricks for passing smog would be greatly appreciated. >Thanks in advance for your help. These California smog tests are a >nightmare if you don’t pass! >Dennis

Response:

Hi, Your HC’s are unburned hydrocarbons. These fail because of poor ignition of the gases. You can check your wires. A good quality wire is Motorcraft. If you buy them at Kragen’s auto they are warrantied for life assuming you keep your reciept and don’t rip the boot off at the plug. A culprit may be your air injection system if you have one. What the air injection system does is feed a fresh air charge into your exhaust manifold at the heads. This fresh charge ignites the gases which in turn burns the unburned hydrocarbons. If your truck is running good this is probably your problem. Have you heard poping out of the exhaust when letting off the throttle on older cars? This is due to the leaking exhaust which sucks fresh air into your exhaust system. The poping is gases being burned in your exhaust. The same thing as your air injection. Good luck to you. Jessie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My ‘92 GMC 1/2 Ton 4X4 (350) with 140K miles is failing the California > idle smog test. The test allows 120 Maximum HC (PPM) and my truck > tested 175. The oil was clean at the time of the test. The 2500 rpm > test for HC shows only 24 PPM out of an allowable limit of 180 PPM, so > it is fine at higher rpm’s. I have since installed a new air filter > (the old one wasn’t in bad shape) and changed the spark plugs. After > changing the plugs, I waited until dark and started the truck to see > if I could see any arcing from the plug wires. None was apparent at > idle, but when I revved the motor to approx 2500 rpm, I did see 4 or > 5 blue flashes at various points. I plan to change out the plug wires > and then retest. > Here are my questions for the group: > 1. Is it likely that changing out the plug wires will help? BTW, > they are OEM and have never been changed. > 2. How do you test the oxygen sensor, and if it was bad, would it > cause the idle test failure? > 3. Any other tricks for passing smog would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks in advance for your help. These California smog tests are a > nightmare if you don’t pass! > Dennis

Response:

My ‘92 GMC 1/2 Ton 4X4 (350) with 140K miles is failing the California idle smog test. The test allows 120 Maximum HC (PPM) and my truck tested 175. The oil was clean at the time of the test. The 2500 rpm test for HC shows only 24 PPM out of an allowable limit of 180 PPM, so it is fine at higher rpm’s. I have since installed a new air filter (the old one wasn’t in bad shape) and changed the spark plugs. After changing the plugs, I waited until dark and started the truck to see if I could see any arcing from the plug wires. None was apparent at idle, but when I revved the motor to approx 2500 rpm, I did see 4 or 5 blue flashes at various points. I plan to change out the plug wires and then retest. Here are my questions for the group: 1. Is it likely that changing out the plug wires will help? BTW, they are OEM and have never been changed. 2. How do you test the oxygen sensor, and if it was bad, would it cause the idle test failure? 3. Any other tricks for passing smog would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help. These California smog tests are a nightmare if you don’t pass! Dennis

Response:

truck still acting up

admin — Tue, 10 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

my 87 gmc 4×4 w/ 305 still stalls and dies when selected in reverse or ata idle, put new egr valve on, it was bad, new egr selonoid too. my check engine light doesnt come on, never has. so i hooked up a code tool, it nver flashed any codes or nothing. any suggestions

Response:

Maybe it’s time for wires and plugs? I don’t remember your original post, but if you did the above, a compression test is in order. Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my 87 gmc 4×4 w/ 305 still stalls and dies when selected in reverse or ata > idle, put new egr valve on, it was bad, new egr selonoid too. my check > engine light doesnt come on, never has. so i hooked up a code tool, it > nver flashed any codes or nothing. any suggestions

Response:

. . ======= ======= truck still acting up Bud, we will need a little more info before making a solid diagnostic decision. ~:~ MarshMonster ~sets the glass of shroom juice down…wipes his eyeballs…~

Response:

its got new wires, plugs, compression ok, motor has only 25,000 miles on it, checked ect sensor, map sensor, ok. going to check fuel pressure tommorrow, ill even check to see if theres anything in the fuel,like water or to much alcohol. its got e new fuel filter.

Response:

missing and 4×4

admin — Fri, 06 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

i have a 1987 gmc 1/2 ton 4×4 w/ a 305 TBI. sometimes when ever i put the truck in reverse, or i slow down and stop , the trck dies on me. it also does it if im sitting at a stop light and the truck idles. the weirdest thimg that happened was when it died on me , i craked it over to start it, but it kept crankin, never started. it still was crankin even after i turn the key off. it finally started when i kept hitting the gas pedal.

Response:

> i have a 1987 gmc 1/2 ton 4×4 w/ a 305 TBI. sometimes when ever i put the > truck in reverse, or i slow down and stop , the trck dies on me. it also > does it if im sitting at a stop light and the truck idles. the weirdest > thimg that happened was when it died on me , i craked it over to start it, > but it kept crankin, never started. it still was crankin even after i turn > the key off. it finally started when i kept hitting the gas pedal.

That’s very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

Response:

Sounds like it needs: A good tune up, and the starter is about ready to bite the dust too, unless your ignition switch is bad. But this is all seat of the pants diagnostics, if you give more info on how the truck acts, as in: has it lost power, is it missing under load, does it buck or stumble under load or highway speed? All these symptoms, if present, can help in diagnosing a headache in the stomach over the phone. Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 1987 gmc 1/2 ton 4×4 w/ a 305 TBI. sometimes when ever i put the > truck in reverse, or i slow down and stop , the trck dies on me. it also > does it if im sitting at a stop light and the truck idles. the weirdest > thimg that happened was when it died on me , i craked it over to start it, > but it kept crankin, never started. it still was crankin even after i turn > the key off. it finally started when i kept hitting the gas pedal.

Response:

I’m almost 100% sure i know how to fix it. my 89 K5 ran like a top until a few weeks ago, wouldn’t crank, i’d have to hold the pedal down to make it run, ran fine if i kept just a little throttle on it, if i let off, went dead immediately. I thought it might be the EGR valve; replaced it, no difference. Then i replaced the EGR solenoid(?) and it runs fine. It was 29 or 30 bucks at autozone, takes about 20 minutes to replace and will run fine afterwards. Good luck TB

Response:

it drives great, no loss of power, it only runs like crap like i described. in fact, everything from the oil pan up to the intake is only little over a year old. i changed the fuel filter, it looked like it had water in it. still have the same problem. TBI was cleaned and redone recently, but i have had the same problem before, im thinkin its the egr valve / or selonoid too. the starter hasnt acted up anymore so far.

Response:

Purchasing a DANA 60 rear axle.

admin — Tue, 03 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Another plus for the 14bolt is, readily availiable and easy to find disk brake convertion kits or parts. And a Detroit locker is cheap, you have to have an open carrier to start with (not the gov-lock carrier) The crosspins are different.

Response:

Alright, work that $25.00 in as gas money. GMC Gremlin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Gremlin here’s my thoughts, > I agree with your 1-4 points and will add these for your consideration. If > he was’nt really using it and it was just laying around collecting spider > webs I would offer him $75.00 – $80.00 for it. After all, you are one > state away. Another thought is how much does your local junk yard ask for > the same part? Work your deal from there. My drag racing mentor once told > me, "When you make an offer for that old Nova or Mustang sitting around > rusting and taking up space, make your offer based on what it’s worth to > them, not what it is worth to you." Just a thought. > NHRA

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dearest Group, > I am considering purchasing a DANA 60 rear axle from a private party. I > have not seen the axle yet, it is in the next state over. Here is what I was > able to find out about the axle; > 1: 100K plus > 2: Open carrier > 3: 3.55 gears (if he recalls correctly) > 4: No drums (but he thinks the can find them or someone who will have some) > 5: Reason being sold; basically has a 1998 Chevy and a banshee that he is > pouring his money into, this was for a K5 that he got rid of (as is the > sheet metal that I am picking up). > Asking price: $100 > Bad things; > 1: 100K plus > 2: Open carrier > 3: 3.55 gears (if he recalls correctly) > 4: No drums (but he thinks the can find them or someone who will have some) > My thought is however since it won’t be going right under the truck that it > would be a perfect core. I could go in & freshen up seals/bearings/what not, > drop some kind of a locker in there with like 4.56 gears and do a disk > conversion. That should cover 1-4???

A Dana 60 is a B*TCH to work on. Changing bearings is no "walk in the park." I’m with the guy that suggested a 14 bolt or even the 9 1/2" axle. If the Dana is a full floater, most are, and the hubs and drums are gone, I’d walk away from it. Al – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should I haggle or is this a good deal? Sounds like it’s a really good price > to me, but I also don’t deal with these things daily. > GMC Gremlin

Response:

> What lug pattern is it? 5-6-8? Just asking cause I don’t ever recall > hearing > about a factory D60 rear in any K5. > Not factory, but it was slated for a K5 > Are you 8 lugged now why not get a > 14boltFF, thoes are dirt cheap around here. > IIRC they have a larger pumpkin = less ground clearance.

I don’t know what IIRC means but…… You’re looking at it all wrong. {larger pumpkin = stronger} Shave the 14bolt pumpkin if you really want, nets you about 1 1/2". For strength, by God if you’ve broken a 14boltFF you’ve done something VERY WRONG. > Like $50 at the local wreckers > (thats Canadian dollars) Personally I wouldn’t drive across the city for a > non-complete D60 rear. A D70 rear maybe. > Never heard of them

Never heard of a D70? Hmmm. Dana Corp’s strength equvalent to the Corp14boltFF. 1.5" shafts. But 14bolt has the extra pinion bearing. > I’ve got 2 14bolts in the back yard > right now. Dime a dozen. > Close to southern NH?

NH? New Hampshire? Not even close, well I’m not even sure where that is. I’m southern Alberta near the Rockies. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> GMC Gremlin

Response:

> What lug pattern is it? 5-6-8? Just asking cause I don’t ever recall hearing > about a factory D60 rear in any K5.

Not factory, but it was slated for a K5 > Are you 8 lugged now why not get a > 14boltFF, thoes are dirt cheap around here.

IIRC they have a larger pumpkin = less ground clearance. > Like $50 at the local wreckers > (thats Canadian dollars) Personally I wouldn’t drive across the city for a > non-complete D60 rear. A D70 rear maybe.

Never heard of them. > I’ve got 2 14bolts in the back yard > right now. Dime a dozen.

Close to southern NH? GMC Gremlin

Response:

yep…good price for the core.

Response:

Hey Gremlin here’s my thoughts, I agree with your 1-4 points and will add these for your consideration. If he was’nt really using it and it was just laying around collecting spider webs I would offer him $75.00 – $80.00 for it. After all, you are one state away. Another thought is how much does your local junk yard ask for the same part? Work your deal from there. My drag racing mentor once told me, "When you make an offer for that old Nova or Mustang sitting around rusting and taking up space, make your offer based on what it’s worth to them, not what it is worth to you." Just a thought. NHRA

Response:

What lug pattern is it? 5-6-8? Just asking cause I don’t ever recall hearing about a factory D60 rear in any K5. Are you 8 lugged now why not get a 14boltFF, thoes are dirt cheap around here. Like $50 at the local wreckers (thats Canadian dollars) Personally I wouldn’t drive across the city for a non-complete D60 rear. A D70 rear maybe. I’ve got 2 14bolts in the back yard right now. Dime a dozen.

Response:

Dearest Group, I am considering purchasing a DANA 60 rear axle from a private party. I have not seen the axle yet, it is in the next state over. Here is what I was able to find out about the axle; 1: 100K plus 2: Open carrier 3: 3.55 gears (if he recalls correctly) 4: No drums (but he thinks the can find them or someone who will have some) 5: Reason being sold; basically has a 1998 Chevy and a banshee that he is pouring his money into, this was for a K5 that he got rid of (as is the sheet metal that I am picking up). Asking price: $100 Bad things; 1: 100K plus 2: Open carrier 3: 3.55 gears (if he recalls correctly) 4: No drums (but he thinks the can find them or someone who will have some) My thought is however since it won’t be going right under the truck that it would be a perfect core. I could go in & freshen up seals/bearings/what not, drop some kind of a locker in there with like 4.56 gears and do a disk conversion. That should cover 1-4??? Should I haggle or is this a good deal? Sounds like it’s a really good price to me, but I also don’t deal with these things daily. GMC Gremlin

Response:

chilton vs factory service manual – size matters

admin — Tue, 03 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Agreed. While I think the aftermarket manuals certainly have their place for the shade-tree mechanic who does not have the money to spend on the OEM manuals, the aftermarket manuals certainlly contain incorrect information. They try to include too many different YMM vehicles into one manual in order to maximize profit. I have the Hayes manual for my 1997 S-10 and it states the oil filter is not on the engine and in a closed box. Nope… it screws into the engine just like most oil filters. They were not even close.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this major > difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong with my > truck so I can try the manuals out!?!

Response:

wow, are you nuts? Read the manuals to enjoy learn, but HOPE nothing goes wrong so you can enjoy the manuals without the expense and grease. john

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m not so much of an truck enthusiast as a major do-it-yourselfer. > When I researched what manual would be best to get for my 2003 > Silverado 4×4, I read most of the posts about Chilton or Haynes > manuals. I decided to go full-blown > and get the FSM. ($140 at helminc.com) > What I didn’t read about or expect is the shear amount of info in the > FSM. It comes in 5 phone-book-sized volumes. Stack the volumes on > top of each other and they measure 9" thick. Those are standard 8.5" > x 11" pages. I couldn’t count the pages (in this lifetime) because of > the complex numbering. And this is just the main set of manuals. > There are several other specialized sets for diesel, emmisions, etc. > When I received the shipment I was perplexed why the box weighed so > much. When I opened it I worried for a moment that they got my order > wrong and sent me 10 manuals. > Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this major > difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong with my > truck so I can try the manuals out!?! > –zeb

Response:

I have two different sets of gauges and one set of toe plates. The bubble gauges basically work the same , just different mounts. First you need a level floor OR a way to level an area for the vehicle to drive on. I have the later in that I use an old frame machine plate. I check it for level every alignment. BUT once you have a level spot you then check the ride height of the vehicle (all front/rear specs are based on the vehicle being at that height as a starting point) Then you attach the gauges. Then read the bubbles position. One set I have has a level that you can preset to the correct camber angle and then if it reads 0 your OK. The other just reads the angle. Caster angle is read on an angle meter on the end of the gauge using a wire that you line up with the upper and lower ball joints. Toe can be done easily with a tape measure and a set of straightedges and 4 blocks to set against the rim. Just measure and calculate out the difference. Wider in front = Toe out Wider in the back = toe in. If you don’t have the specs handy and are just trying to get it close enough to take it to a shop then you can use 0-1/8" toe in on rear wheel drives, up to 1/8" toe out for front wheel drives. — Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know there are people who look down on bubble gauges. I don’t, because I > don’t know how it’s done with either…. > GMC Gremlin message > If you have a level floor: > Or can compensate your floor, I use bubble gauges. To diagnose what the > guys > with the fancy computer machines do, and the vehicles still wear tires. > The insurance companies refer me work, even though I’m freelancing in > other > shops, and still trying to get another building. > Refinish King > > I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I could > > figure out where to look when something goes wrong! > > I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment > > machine". Gives me specs though! > > GMC Gremlin > message > > > Factory service manuals: > > > To any aftermarket manuals are akin to, comparing shit to Shinola! > > > But, in the service sector, you’d tie up a million dollars in FSM’s. > Also, > > > you’d tie up vehicles for a month waiting for the volumes you don’t > have. > > > So far the Mitchell On Demand was the best, but All Data is becoming > the > > > standard now, because there is more information in the All Data CD or > DVD > > > series now. Before All Data was limited, because they were a start up > > > company. > > > Refinish King > > > > > I’m not so much of an truck enthusiast as a major > do-it-yourselfer. > > > > > When I researched what manual would be best to get for my 2003 > > > > > Silverado 4×4, I read most of the posts about Chilton or Haynes > > > > > manuals. I decided to go full-blown > > > > > and get the FSM. ($140 at helminc.com) > > > > > What I didn’t read about or expect is the shear amount of info in > the > > > > > FSM. It comes in 5 phone-book-sized volumes. Stack the volumes > on > > > > > top of each other and they measure 9" thick. Those are standard > 8.5" > > > > > x 11" pages. I couldn’t count the pages (in this lifetime) > because > of > > > > > the complex numbering. And this is just the main set of manuals. > > > > > There are several other specialized sets for diesel, emmisions, > etc. > > > > > When I received the shipment I was perplexed why the box weighed > so > > > > > much. When I opened it I worried for a moment that they got my > order > > > > > wrong and sent me 10 manuals. > > > > > Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this > major > > > > > difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong > with > my > > > > > truck so I can try the manuals out!?! > > > > > –zeb > > > > I’ve always gotten the factory manuals on all my vehicles. Yes, > they’re > > > > expensive, but worth it. You won’t be sorry, in my opinion. > > > > Garrett Fulton > > > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > > > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > > > > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I could > figure out where to look when something goes wrong! > I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment > machine". Gives me specs though! > GMC Gremlin

I did have a situation once where something was totally missing in the factory service manual. An ‘85 Chevy 1/2 ton truck, 6.2 NA diesel. The section on the glow plugs, removal, installation, discription, operation, circuitry, the whole deal, was missing. Completely. Only time I’ve ever seen that, though. Garrett Fulton —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I know there are people who look down on bubble gauges. I don’t, because I don’t know how it’s done with either…. GMC Gremlin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you have a level floor: > Or can compensate your floor, I use bubble gauges. To diagnose what the guys > with the fancy computer machines do, and the vehicles still wear tires. > The insurance companies refer me work, even though I’m freelancing in other > shops, and still trying to get another building. > Refinish King > I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I could > figure out where to look when something goes wrong! > I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment > machine". Gives me specs though! > GMC Gremlin message > > Factory service manuals: > > To any aftermarket manuals are akin to, comparing shit to Shinola! > > But, in the service sector, you’d tie up a million dollars in FSM’s. > Also, > > you’d tie up vehicles for a month waiting for the volumes you don’t > have. > > So far the Mitchell On Demand was the best, but All Data is becoming the > > standard now, because there is more information in the All Data CD or > DVD > > series now. Before All Data was limited, because they were a start up > > company. > > Refinish King > > > > I’m not so much of an truck enthusiast as a major do-it-yourselfer. > > > > When I researched what manual would be best to get for my 2003 > > > > Silverado 4×4, I read most of the posts about Chilton or Haynes > > > > manuals. I decided to go full-blown > > > > and get the FSM. ($140 at helminc.com) > > > > What I didn’t read about or expect is the shear amount of info in > the > > > > FSM. It comes in 5 phone-book-sized volumes. Stack the volumes on > > > > top of each other and they measure 9" thick. Those are standard > 8.5" > > > > x 11" pages. I couldn’t count the pages (in this lifetime) because > of > > > > the complex numbering. And this is just the main set of manuals. > > > > There are several other specialized sets for diesel, emmisions, etc. > > > > When I received the shipment I was perplexed why the box weighed so > > > > much. When I opened it I worried for a moment that they got my > order > > > > wrong and sent me 10 manuals. > > > > Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this > major > > > > difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong with > my > > > > truck so I can try the manuals out!?! > > > > –zeb > > > I’ve always gotten the factory manuals on all my vehicles. Yes, > they’re > > > expensive, but worth it. You won’t be sorry, in my opinion. > > > Garrett Fulton > > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > > > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> You’d be the man to ask about it! Do you think it could be in a > missing volume? I was more so just interested in how to do it, rather > then trying too.

If I remember (which isn’t likely) I’ll take a look in a 1990 service manual and see where the specs are located. Pretty sure it’s just under the "wheel alignment" section. Ian

Response:

If you have a level floor: Or can compensate your floor, I use bubble gauges. To diagnose what the guys with the fancy computer machines do, and the vehicles still wear tires. The insurance companies refer me work, even though I’m freelancing in other shops, and still trying to get another building. Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I could > figure out where to look when something goes wrong! > I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment > machine". Gives me specs though! > GMC Gremlin > Factory service manuals: > To any aftermarket manuals are akin to, comparing shit to Shinola! > But, in the service sector, you’d tie up a million dollars in FSM’s. Also, > you’d tie up vehicles for a month waiting for the volumes you don’t have. > So far the Mitchell On Demand was the best, but All Data is becoming the > standard now, because there is more information in the All Data CD or DVD > series now. Before All Data was limited, because they were a start up > company. > Refinish King > > > I’m not so much of an truck enthusiast as a major do-it-yourselfer. > > > When I researched what manual would be best to get for my 2003 > > > Silverado 4×4, I read most of the posts about Chilton or Haynes > > > manuals. I decided to go full-blown > > > and get the FSM. ($140 at helminc.com) > > > What I didn’t read about or expect is the shear amount of info in the > > > FSM. It comes in 5 phone-book-sized volumes. Stack the volumes on > > > top of each other and they measure 9" thick. Those are standard 8.5" > > > x 11" pages. I couldn’t count the pages (in this lifetime) because of > > > the complex numbering. And this is just the main set of manuals. > > > There are several other specialized sets for diesel, emmisions, etc. > > > When I received the shipment I was perplexed why the box weighed so > > > much. When I opened it I worried for a moment that they got my order > > > wrong and sent me 10 manuals. > > > Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this major > > > difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong with my > > > truck so I can try the manuals out!?! > > > –zeb > > I’ve always gotten the factory manuals on all my vehicles. Yes, they’re > > expensive, but worth it. You won’t be sorry, in my opinion. > > Garrett Fulton > > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I > could figure out where to look when something goes wrong! > I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment > machine". Gives me specs though!

You may not be looking hard enough. They should be there. Ian

Response:

You’d be the man to ask about it! Do you think it could be in a missing volume? I was more so just interested in how to do it, rather then trying too. GMC Gremlin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I > could figure out where to look when something goes wrong! > I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment > machine". Gives me specs though! > You may not be looking hard enough. They should > be there. > Ian

Response:

I have allot of the FSM on my 1990 GMC and I’d feel equipped if I could figure out where to look when something goes wrong! I was disappointed, for an alignment it still says "use the alignment machine". Gives me specs though! GMC Gremlin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Factory service manuals: > To any aftermarket manuals are akin to, comparing shit to Shinola! > But, in the service sector, you’d tie up a million dollars in FSM’s. Also, > you’d tie up vehicles for a month waiting for the volumes you don’t have. > So far the Mitchell On Demand was the best, but All Data is becoming the > standard now, because there is more information in the All Data CD or DVD > series now. Before All Data was limited, because they were a start up > company. > Refinish King > > I’m not so much of an truck enthusiast as a major do-it-yourselfer. > > When I researched what manual would be best to get for my 2003 > > Silverado 4×4, I read most of the posts about Chilton or Haynes > > manuals. I decided to go full-blown > > and get the FSM. ($140 at helminc.com) > > What I didn’t read about or expect is the shear amount of info in the > > FSM. It comes in 5 phone-book-sized volumes. Stack the volumes on > > top of each other and they measure 9" thick. Those are standard 8.5" > > x 11" pages. I couldn’t count the pages (in this lifetime) because of > > the complex numbering. And this is just the main set of manuals. > > There are several other specialized sets for diesel, emmisions, etc. > > When I received the shipment I was perplexed why the box weighed so > > much. When I opened it I worried for a moment that they got my order > > wrong and sent me 10 manuals. > > Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this major > > difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong with my > > truck so I can try the manuals out!?! > > –zeb > I’ve always gotten the factory manuals on all my vehicles. Yes, they’re > expensive, but worth it. You won’t be sorry, in my opinion. > Garrett Fulton > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Factory service manuals: To any aftermarket manuals are akin to, comparing shit to Shinola! But, in the service sector, you’d tie up a million dollars in FSM’s. Also, you’d tie up vehicles for a month waiting for the volumes you don’t have. So far the Mitchell On Demand was the best, but All Data is becoming the standard now, because there is more information in the All Data CD or DVD series now. Before All Data was limited, because they were a start up company. Refinish King

Response:

I’m not so much of an truck enthusiast as a major do-it-yourselfer. When I researched what manual would be best to get for my 2003 Silverado 4×4, I read most of the posts about Chilton or Haynes manuals. I decided to go full-blown and get the FSM. ($140 at helminc.com) What I didn’t read about or expect is the shear amount of info in the FSM. It comes in 5 phone-book-sized volumes. Stack the volumes on top of each other and they measure 9" thick. Those are standard 8.5" x 11" pages. I couldn’t count the pages (in this lifetime) because of the complex numbering. And this is just the main set of manuals. There are several other specialized sets for diesel, emmisions, etc. When I received the shipment I was perplexed why the box weighed so much. When I opened it I worried for a moment that they got my order wrong and sent me 10 manuals. Anyway, I’m just posting this for people who don’t realize this major difference. Now I almost can’t wait for something to go wrong with my truck so I can try the manuals out!?! –zeb

Response:

I’ve always gotten the factory manuals on all my vehicles. Yes, they’re expensive, but worth it. You won’t be sorry, in my opinion. Garrett Fulton —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

general info wanted

admin — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Can someone point me toward a source of general information on chevy’s through the years? I’m interested in getting a project truck, but I’d like to do some research first as to what swaps out with what among the various years/models. Also any general reccommendations along these lines would be appreciated. Thanks, Charlie

Response:

I think there’s a ‘chevrolet light duty truck bible’, I’m not sure, a buddy has one and likes. it I have an ‘illustrated buyer’s guide to chevrolet trucks’ it’s pretty good, covers all the different option packages, hp gains, just anything that went on in a chevy/gmc from the 30’s up i think. Check out 4×4 magazines too, i happen to see one a while back that covered weak links in chevy trucks, like the frame crack, etc. Pretty handy magazine. Anyway, good luck lookin TB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can someone point me toward a source of general information on chevy’s > through the years? I’m interested in getting a project truck, but I’d like > to do some research first as to what swaps out with what among the various > years/models. Also any general reccommendations along these lines would be > appreciated. > Thanks, > Charlie

Response:

. . TOP POST The History of Chevy Trucks Address:http://www.chevytrucks.org/resources/history_of_chevy_trucks.htm also…… do a google….. +"History" +"Chevrolet truck" as typed above. You’ll find everything your looking for, as far as Chevy truck background and even sites on classic conversions. MarshMonster ~:~ general info wanted Can someone point me toward a source of general information on chevy’s through the years? I’m interested in getting a project truck, but I’d like to do some research first as to what swaps out with what among the various years/models. Also any general reccommendations along these lines would be appreciated. Thanks, Charlie

Response:

Re: " Can someone point me toward a source of general information on chevy’s through the years? I’m interested in getting a project truck, but I’d like to do some research first as to what swaps out with what among the various years/models. Also any general reccommendations along these lines would be appreciated. Thanks, Charlie" Charlie,the book you need is called "Chevrolet+GMC Light Truck Owner’s Bible" by Moses Ludel GM part # 12363286 Robert Bentley Pubs.1-800-423-4595 1995 Really a must have 69 Cust.Camper longhorn,