Lopsided GMC Pickup

Question:

I’d also say to check the rear shocks first like the other poster mentioned. Did you buy the vehicle new or used? Possibly there is some flex in the bed / or frame area. Check for loose bed mounting bolts. I saw a new Chevy truck awhile ago & they didn’t even have wheelwell liners in the rear. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

Response:

> Could any of you please comment on a problem I have?  I own a 2000 GMC > Sierra 1/2 ton pickup, 2WD with milage of 68000 kms (42000 miles). > Awhile ago I noticed that the left-rear side of the truck appeared to be > lower that the right.  I took measurements and found that the left was 1 1/2 > inches lower than the right.  I took these measurements from the bottom of > the wheel rim to the fender wheelwell.  (Measuring from the ground may not > be accurate due to uneven tire inflation or uneven ground).

Do you have gas shocks?  If they are oem at 42k miles it’s time for new ones.

Response:

Could any of you please comment on a problem I have?  I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup, 2WD with milage of 68000 kms (42000 miles). Awhile ago I noticed that the left-rear side of the truck appeared to be lower that the right.  I took measurements and found that the left was 1 1/2 inches lower than the right.  I took these measurements from the bottom of the wheel rim to the fender wheelwell.  (Measuring from the ground may not be accurate due to uneven tire inflation or uneven ground). I brought this to the attention of my GM dealer who checked it out and reported that the rear of the vehicle was level.  I took measurements again while at the dealer and discovered that the difference was only 1/4 inch. So something had changed while driving from my home to the dealer’s site.  I drove home and checked again.  This time the difference was about 1 inch. What’s going on here? I have a theory.  There is almost no weight in the bed of the truck so the back end of the truck is light.  What if there is dirt or other foreign matter between the spring leaves? As I drive over uneven road surfaces the springs flex.  Due to dirt between the spring leaves and because there’s not much weight back there, the springs don’t always return to their original position.  What do you think? Have you heard of this problem before? Perhaps I’m worrying about nothing but my concern initially was that there was a weakened spring.  I’ve never carried any heavy load in the bed. I thought I might attempt to spray liberal amounts of WD40 between the spring leaves in case my theory is correct.  Any thoughts or similar experiences? Thanks to all. Clark Martin

Response:

2001 Suburban – Passenger Side Draft

Question:

Hello, I noticed another thing with my Suburban over the weekend.  The passenger side has a stiff draft coming from underneath the glove box (closer to the door).  The floor heat works fine, but is diluted with the cold air.  The driver’s side is fine.  With below-zero temperatures it really makes a big difference. Everything is exposed below the glove box on the right so I’m not sure if some sort of panel is missing.  Any ideas? Thanks, Brown Weed

Response:

>I noticed another thing with my Suburban over the weekend.  The passenger >side has a stiff draft coming from underneath the glove box (closer to the >door).  The floor heat works fine, but is diluted with the cold air.  The >driver’s side is fine.  With below-zero temperatures it really makes a big >difference. >Everything is exposed below the glove box on the right so I’m not sure if >some sort of panel is missing.  Any ideas? >Thanks, >Brown Weed

I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe.  I had it in 4 times about the problem.  The factory is to meet me soon.  There are several things that can cause this problem and there is a TSB at your dealer that addresses one of the problems. I bought the $120 service manual so that I could fix things myself because Mr. Goodwrench doesn’t have a clue.  Try this first: Let the car out in the cold overnight.  Then remove the radio fuse for at least one minute.  The fuse is under the panel in the left end of the dash, next to the door.  After the fuse is plugged back in, the actuators in the heater will reset.  This helped mine but I still have some cold air. The recirculate/fresh air door MUST seal in either positions to keep the cold air out. I’ll bet you have the worst problem when you keep things set on AUTO.  Manually increasing the fan speed will force more of the cold air thru the heater. If you send me your email address, I’ll let you know what the factory man says. Lynn

Response:

<<< I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe Thanks Lynn, I am bringing it into the dealer soon for an electrical problem so I’ll have them check this out too (if your suggestion below doesn’t fix it).  Do you remember any details regarding the TSB? -Brown

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I noticed another thing with my Suburban over the weekend.  The passenger >side has a stiff draft coming from underneath the glove box (closer to the >door).  The floor heat works fine, but is diluted with the cold air.  The >driver’s side is fine.  With below-zero temperatures it really makes a big >difference. >Everything is exposed below the glove box on the right so I’m not sure if >some sort of panel is missing.  Any ideas? >Thanks, >Brown Weed > I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe.  I had it in 4 times about the > problem.  The factory is to meet me soon.  There are several things that can > cause this problem and there is a TSB at your dealer that addresses one of the > problems. > I bought the $120 service manual so that I could fix things myself because Mr. > Goodwrench doesn’t have a clue.  Try this first: Let the car out in the cold > overnight.  Then remove the radio fuse for at least one minute.  The fuse is > under the panel in the left end of the dash, next to the door.  After the fuse > is plugged back in, the actuators in the heater will reset.  This helped mine > but I still have some cold air. > The recirculate/fresh air door MUST seal in either positions to keep the cold > air out. > I’ll bet you have the worst problem when you keep things set on AUTO. Manually > increasing the fan speed will force more of the cold air thru the heater. > If you send me your email address, I’ll let you know what the factory man says. > Lynn

Response:

This will fix a poor seal but it won’t address the problem of the door not closing properly.  I had all this done and much more.  The entire dash was ripped out and everything resealed.  The recirculate door warps or something. TSB below: 99ssconv Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver’s Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal) 1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models 2002 Cadillac Escalade Condition Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be: Colder than the driver’s side when the heat mode is on. Warmer than the driver’s side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on. There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on. Cause Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving. Correction Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures: Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode. Remove the fixed mast radio antenna. Open the hood and install fender covers. Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure: Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle. Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer. Important Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm. Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm. Lower the hood. Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure: On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw. Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin. Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl. Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel. Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out. Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it. With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape. Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover. Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module. Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures. Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure: Important It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas. Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541). Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions. From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition. From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal. Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor. Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl. Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover. Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place. Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind. Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time. Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base. Lower but do not close the hood. Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N

Tail lamps won't go out

Question:

I’ve been meaning to get into the local yard just to scope out the 73-91 blazer/burbs for any toys, etc…. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck….. >:| >:|~KJ~ > go look at the 88-98 C/K tail lights and you’ll see the infamous bulb > mount board. > -Bret >:| >:|> >:|> >:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. >:|Relocate it >:|> >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I >:|mean, >:|> >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own >:|that >:|> >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. >:|Mayhaps >:|> >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~KJ~ >:|> >:|> you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights >:|> in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to >:|> use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These >:|fail >:|> >:|due to >:|> >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. >:|Only >:|> >:|problem >:|> >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to >:|remotely >:|> >:|mount >:|> >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|> >:|powered when >:|> >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|> >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem >:|further >:|> >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom >:|of >:|> >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d >:|try >:|> >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve >:|never >:|> >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the >:|board >:|> >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything. what >:|> >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:| >:|> >:|

Response:

FYI, These are always on EBAY. Need to get some myself soon. Chris http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=337…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? > > Snowman > Maybe the headlight switch itself? > Doc > > > Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > > > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > > > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > > > Fronts are o.k. > > > Right turn signal stopped working. > > > Left still works. > > > Hazards stopped working. > > > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > > > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > > > Thank for any suggestions, > > > Mike > What I don’t understand is, because it’s the running lights that are > on, where are they getting power with the headlamp switch off? > I know it’s not the switch because the front parking lamps turn off > with the switch and when you pull the fuse, but the rears stay on! > It’s like a power wire to the rear lights is shorted to another power > wire that’s always hot? > The only one I can think of is the orange wire in the trailer plug > that’s always hot to charge the auxiliary battery in the trailer to > power the electric brakes in the event of a disconnect. > As someone mentioned, it must be in the trailer plug. > I’ll let you all know what I find out. > Thanks for all the replies, > Mike

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? > Snowman > Maybe the headlight switch itself? > Doc > > Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > > Fronts are o.k. > > Right turn signal stopped working. > > Left still works. > > Hazards stopped working. > > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > > Thank for any suggestions, > > Mike

What I don’t understand is, because it’s the running lights that are on, where are they getting power with the headlamp switch off? I know it’s not the switch because the front parking lamps turn off with the switch and when you pull the fuse, but the rears stay on! It’s like a power wire to the rear lights is shorted to another power wire that’s always hot? The only one I can think of is the orange wire in the trailer plug that’s always hot to charge the auxiliary battery in the trailer to power the electric brakes in the event of a disconnect. As someone mentioned, it must be in the trailer plug. I’ll let you all know what I find out. Thanks for all the replies, Mike

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >:|>  is >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> > >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> > >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. >:|> >:|> Doc >:| >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|would be more than enough. >:| >:|~TLGM

the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. -Bret

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to > > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >  is > > there about $50.00 > > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount > > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. > > ~KJ~ > Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when > the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit. If > they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. > Doc > I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of > these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try > to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never > seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board > would be more than enough. > ~TLGM

Heat isn’t what kills them; it’s corrosion.  Seperating the bulbs from the boards won’t solve anything. Doc

Response:

> brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? > Snowman

Maybe the headlight switch itself? Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

Response:

I don’t think many car manufacturers used twist in bulbs since 87! Chrysler, Ford nor GM! That plastic push in type is here to stay!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >:|>  is >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> > >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> > >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. >:|> >:|> Doc >:| >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|would be more than enough. >:| >:|~TLGM > the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring > connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what > GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb > holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. > -Bret

Response:

So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I mean, if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >:|>  is >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> > >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> > >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. >:|> >:|> Doc >:| >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|would be more than enough. >:| >:|~TLGM > the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring > connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what > GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb > holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. > -Bret

Response:

> Heat isn’t what kills them; it’s corrosion.  Seperating the bulbs from the > boards won’t solve anything. > Doc

Ah, I was always under the impression that it was a heat thing. Thanks for the info! ~KJ~

Response:

>:|I don’t think many car manufacturers used twist in bulbs since 87! >:| >:|Chrysler, Ford nor GM! >:| >:|That plastic push in type is here to stay! >:|

I’m not talking about twist in bulbs, I’m talking about the bulb *HOLDERS* that twist into the light housing.  somewhere along the line GM changed the bulb type in the 88-98 trucks to the push in type, unfortunately it didn’t help with the corrosion problem. -Bret

Response:

>:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I mean, >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:| >:|~KJ~

you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. -Bret – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:| >:|> >:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail >:|due to >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only >:|problem >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely >:|mount >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|powered when >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:| >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >  is > there about $50.00 > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. > ~KJ~ > Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when > the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If > they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. > Doc

I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board would be more than enough. ~TLGM

Response:

>:|I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck….. >:| >:|~KJ~

go look at the 88-98 C/K tail lights and you’ll see the infamous bulb mount board. -Bret – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:| >:|> >:|> >:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. >:|Relocate it >:|> >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I >:|mean, >:|> >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own >:|that >:|> >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. >:|Mayhaps >:|> >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~KJ~ >:|> >:|> you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights >:|> in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to >:|> use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These >:|fail >:|> >:|due to >:|> >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. >:|Only >:|> >:|problem >:|> >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to >:|remotely >:|> >:|mount >:|> >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|> >:|powered when >:|> >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|> >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem >:|further >:|> >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom >:|of >:|> >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d >:|try >:|> >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve >:|never >:|> >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the >:|board >:|> >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what >:|> >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:| >:|> >:|

Response:

I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck….. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I mean, >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:| >:|~KJ~ > you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights > in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to > use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. > -Bret >:| >:|> >:|> >:|>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail >:|due to >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only >:|problem >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely >:|mount >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|powered when >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:| >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|

Response:

Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. Fronts are o.k. Right turn signal stopped working. Left still works. Hazards stopped working. When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. Thank for any suggestions, Mike

Response:

There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem is there about $50.00 Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

Response:

> There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem is > there about $50.00 > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. > ~KJ~

Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

Response:

brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? Snowman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

Response:

Check your trailer wiring. Les – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

Response:

Taho S-10

Question:

Has anyone ever heard of a 1988 Taho S-10? I have one .

Response:

there was also a badge on the frt fenders, near the wheel well too J

Response:

And if I’m right "silverado" was cloth interior and a towing package….? ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have, that used to be nothing more than a package on the mid/late > 80s/early 90s S trucks…GMC S-15 Sonomas had a Sierra package > Jason > 98 Sonoma 4×4 4.3L

Response:

i second that KJ i think you are right

Response:

> Has anyone ever heard of a 1988 Taho S-10? I have one .

Yes, it was a trim level.  

Response:

I have, that used to be nothing more than a package on the mid/late 80s/early 90s S trucks…GMC S-15 Sonomas had a Sierra package Jason 98 Sonoma 4×4 4.3L

Response:

the tahoe was just a package with the trk. i had a 91 s-10 tahoe, its just a upgreade from the base model, or so i been told. the only thing that marked it as a tahoe was the tag that said s10 tahoe on the glove box.

Response:

Silverado – thunk, clunk, shunk

Question:

“MR” wrote: Thanks for the info Ian. Mine does not seem to have the launch shudder as descirbed, but does have a slight clunk like it has slipped and caught just as it starts off. It only does it after it has been on the hwy. and very warm. It has the locking rear end, but don’t know if that has anything to do with it. Any ideas or is that the start of the launch shudder? I have about 15k miles on it now and only use it to tow a travel trailer in season. I guess the only other option would be to try greasing that slip yoke. You could cut off the original style clamp and just use a screw type clamp as a replacement. I’m not sure that greasing this slip yoke will help any, but you never know. Ian

Thanks. I may do that after it warms a little. Been below 0 the last few days. MR

Response:

Thanks for the info Ian. Mine does not seem to have the launch shudder as descirbed, but does have a slight clunk like it has slipped and caught just as it starts off. It only does it after it has been on the hwy. and very warm. It has the locking rear end, but don’t know if that has anything to do with it. Any ideas or is that the start of the launch shudder? I have about 15k miles on it now and only use it to tow a travel trailer in season. Thanks, MR “MR” wrote: Right. This is a two piece drive shaft on 2wd, 02 2500HD. The yoke is covered with the sleeve just behind the support bearing. I looked for a grease fitting, but did not see one or anyway to apply grease without taking the sleeve and drive shaft out. No g-fittings on the u-joints either. Ok, the slip yoke issue doesn’t apply to this truck. There is however a bulletin on “launch shudder” which applies to your truck. Perhaps this is the problem you are experiencing. I’ll quote the bulletin below. Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and InstallNew Pinion Flange/Seal) #02-04-17-001A – (07/19/2002) Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install New Pinion Flange/Seal) 1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickups 1999-2003 GMC Sierra 2WD 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickups With 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30) Except QUADRASTEERT (RPO NYS) Equipped Vehicles This bulletin is being revised to add Model information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-04-17-001 (Section 04 — Driveline Axle). Important Implementation of this Service Bulletin by “GM of Canada” dealers requires prior District Service Manager approval. Condition Some customers may comment on a vibration when accelerating from a stop. This is also known as launch shudder. This condition may occur between 0-40 km/h (0-25 mph) and be more noticeable when the vehicle is carrying cargo or used for towing. Correction A new propeller shaft, P/N 15071486, has been developed to correct this condition. The new propeller shaft incorporates dual double cardan joints on the center and rear joint positions. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-00-90-002 for lubrication information. The new propeller shaft will require the installation of a new pinion flange kit, P/N 15071485. The pinion flange kit consists of the following components: a.. A pinion flange b.. Hex bolts (four) c.. A pinion seal d.. A rear axle drive pinion nut Replace the propeller shaft with the new propeller shaft using the following procedure. Use the part numbers listed below. 1.. Remove the propeller shaft assembly and the center bearing. Refer to the applicable Propeller Shaft Replacement procedure in the Propeller Shaft sub-section of the Service Information (SI). Important In step 2, you must measure the pinion and differential preload. This information is needed to set the preload of the new pinion flange to the correct specification and to reduce any rear axle noise concerns. 2.. Remove the drive pinion yoke and the pinion oil seal. Refer to the Drive Pinion Flange/Yoke and/or Oil Seal Replacement procedure in the Rear Drive Axle sub-section of the Service Information (SI). Important In step 3, use this procedure as a guideline to install the pinion flange to the drive pinion and to set up the proper pinion bearing preload. 3.. Install the new pinion oil seal, the new pinion flange and the new drive pinion nut. Refer to the Drive Pinion Flange/Yoke and/or Oil Seal Replacement procedure in the Rear Drive Axle sub-section of the Service Information (SI). 4.. Install the new propeller shaft assembly and the new center bearing. Refer to the applicable Propeller Shaft Replacement procedure in the Propeller Shaft sub-section of the Service Information (SI). Tighten a.. Tighten the propeller shaft flange bolts to 70 N.

2003 Sierra Extended Service plans???

Question:

Cost of extended contract goes up at 8K and at 15K since you are buying a certain number of months & miles on top of what you have on vehicle at time of purchase. Thanks for all the replies. Everyone has made me decide that my first thought was correct…just put the money away for future expenses rather than buy contract. Thanks Thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wondering what 8,000 miles has to do with it?  Unless GM has changed their > plans in the last 1 1/2 years, you can purchase any plan up until you reach > the limits of the factory warranty. (3-36 in the case of a GMC).  I used to > tell my customers the following:  If you plan to keep the truck a long time, > and/or drive a lot of miles, I would seriously consider the Major Guard > warranty.  That’s the best one, the one that covers most everything.  It’s > the only one I would recommend.  The others leave too much uncovered.  If > you usually trade every couple or three years, and/or you don’t drive a lot > of miles; you are probably wasting your money on an extended service > contract. > Of course the upper management didn’t care for me advising customers this, > they wanted me to push for every customer to buy one.  I just wanted to be > upfront and honest with every customer.  It helped me get more return and > referrals when I was a floor salesman.  Just remember, don’t buy anything > but a GM warranty, and just like the price of the truck, the price of the > warranty is negotiable. > Jerry H.– retired GMC sales manager > > We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with it. > We > > are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on vehicles. > We’d > > like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are > > particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can now > say > > whether or not it paid. > > Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the extension??? > > Thanks, > > Mel > Every dis-interested party that has ever done a report on them agree, they > are a rip-off.  If you can talk the price way down, and I mean way down, > it > may be worth it.  Make sure you read all the fine print on what it does > and > does not cover, and what your responsibilities are to keep it in force > (You > may be obligated to maintaining a very strict maintenace schedule, for > example). > — > John > <rant> > Made the mistake of believing Freeserve ads ‘Use the Internet as often as > you like, any time you like’ > What they really mean is once in awhile, but not to often, otherwise you > get > a nasty letter from > Keith Hawkins > Consumer Managing Director > </rant>

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wondering what 8,000 miles has to do with it?  Unless GM has changed their > plans in the last 1 1/2 years, you can purchase any plan up until you reach > the limits of the factory warranty. (3-36 in the case of a GMC).  I used to > tell my customers the following:  If you plan to keep the truck a long time, > and/or drive a lot of miles, I would seriously consider the Major Guard > warranty.  That’s the best one, the one that covers most everything.  It’s > the only one I would recommend.  The others leave too much uncovered.  If > you usually trade every couple or three years, and/or you don’t drive a lot > of miles; you are probably wasting your money on an extended service > contract. > Of course the upper management didn’t care for me advising customers this, > they wanted me to push for every customer to buy one.  I just wanted to be > upfront and honest with every customer.  It helped me get more return and > referrals when I was a floor salesman.  Just remember, don’t buy anything > but a GM warranty, and just like the price of the truck, the price of the > warranty is negotiable. > Jerry H.– retired GMC sales manager > > We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with it. > We > > are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on vehicles. > We’d > > like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are > > particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can now > say > > whether or not it paid. > > Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the extension??? > > Thanks, > > Mel > Every dis-interested party that has ever done a report on them agree, they > are a rip-off.  If you can talk the price way down, and I mean way down, > it > may be worth it.  Make sure you read all the fine print on what it does > and > does not cover, and what your responsibilities are to keep it in force > (You > may be obligated to maintaining a very strict maintenace schedule, for > example). > — > John > <rant> > Made the mistake of believing Freeserve ads ‘Use the Internet as often as > you like, any time you like’ > What they really mean is once in awhile, but not to often, otherwise you > get > a nasty letter from > Keith Hawkins > Consumer Managing Director > </rant>

Response:

#1 the cost of the insurance plan will more than cover the cost of any repair expected during the coverage period for 97% of the vehicles covered #2 the insurance is a HUGE PROFIT MAKER for the dealer and GM.  Typically half the extended warranty goes to the sales guy as commission. Remember that the guy telling you about extended warranty plans is SELLING you your paranoia. Put the money in the bank.  Buy a GIC or a savings bond.  Take it out if you need a repair.  Cash it in at the end of your "extended" warranty and take a holiday. Why pay now to let someone else have a holiday on your dime?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m debating on the GMC Major Gard package vs. a similar program offered > by First Extended Service Corp. I was told the latter was cheaper and > covered more items with a better deductible system. Only downside was it > was more of a hassle to find a repair shop. Any thoughts? > By the way, I drove my last truck over 300,000 miles over 25 years, so > I’ll buy the optional coverage. But, I want to get a reliable package > since it’s pretty expensive. > Wondering what 8,000 miles has to do with it?  Unless GM has changed > their > plans in the last 1 1/2 years, you can purchase any plan up until you > reach > the limits of the factory warranty. (3-36 in the case of a GMC).  I used > to > tell my customers the following:  If you plan to keep the truck a long > time, > and/or drive a lot of miles, I would seriously consider the Major Guard > warranty.  That’s the best one, the one that covers most everything. > It’s > the only one I would recommend.  The others leave too much uncovered. > If > you usually trade every couple or three years, and/or you don’t drive a > lot > of miles; you are probably wasting your money on an extended service > contract. > Of course the upper management didn’t care for me advising customers > this, > they wanted me to push for every customer to buy one.  I just wanted to > be > upfront and honest with every customer.  It helped me get more return > and > referrals when I was a floor salesman.  Just remember, don’t buy > anything > but a GM warranty, and just like the price of the truck, the price of > the > warranty is negotiable. > Jerry H.– retired GMC sales manager > > We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with > it. > We > > are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on > vehicles. > We’d > > like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are > > particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can > now > say > > whether or not it paid. > > Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the > extension??? > > Thanks, > > Mel > Every dis-interested party that has ever done a report on them agree, > they > are a rip-off.  If you can talk the price way down, and I mean way > down, > it > may be worth it.  Make sure you read all the fine print on what it > does > and > does not cover, and what your responsibilities are to keep it in force > (You > may be obligated to maintaining a very strict maintenace schedule, for > example). > — > John > <rant> > Made the mistake of believing Freeserve ads ‘Use the Internet as often > as > you like, any time you like’ > What they really mean is once in awhile, but not to often, otherwise > you > get > a nasty letter from > Keith Hawkins > Consumer Managing Director > </rant>

Response:

I’m debating on the GMC Major Gard package vs. a similar program offered by First Extended Service Corp. I was told the latter was cheaper and covered more items with a better deductible system. Only downside was it was more of a hassle to find a repair shop. Any thoughts? By the way, I drove my last truck over 300,000 miles over 25 years, so I’ll buy the optional coverage. But, I want to get a reliable package since it’s pretty expensive.

Wondering what 8,000 miles has to do with it?  Unless GM has changed their plans in the last 1 1/2 years, you can purchase any plan up until you reach the limits of the factory warranty. (3-36 in the case of a GMC).  I used to tell my customers the following:  If you plan to keep the truck a long time, and/or drive a lot of miles, I would seriously consider the Major Guard warranty.  That’s the best one, the one that covers most everything. It’s the only one I would recommend.  The others leave too much uncovered. If you usually trade every couple or three years, and/or you don’t drive a lot of miles; you are probably wasting your money on an extended service contract. Of course the upper management didn’t care for me advising customers this, they wanted me to push for every customer to buy one.  I just wanted to be upfront and honest with every customer.  It helped me get more return and referrals when I was a floor salesman.  Just remember, don’t buy anything but a GM warranty, and just like the price of the truck, the price of the warranty is negotiable. Jerry H.– retired GMC sales manager

> We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with

it. We – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on vehicles. > We’d > like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are > particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can now > say > whether or not it paid. > Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the extension??? > Thanks, > Mel > Every dis-interested party that has ever done a report on them agree, they > are a rip-off.  If you can talk the price way down, and I mean way

down, it > may be worth it.  Make sure you read all the fine print on what it

does and > does not cover, and what your responsibilities are to keep it in force (You > may be obligated to maintaining a very strict maintenace schedule, for > example). > — > John > <rant> > Made the mistake of believing Freeserve ads ‘Use the Internet as often as > you like, any time you like’ > What they really mean is once in awhile, but not to often, otherwise

you get – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> a nasty letter from > Keith Hawkins > Consumer Managing Director > </rant>

Response:

> We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with it. We > are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on vehicles. We’d > like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are > particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can now say > whether or not it paid. > Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the extension??? > Thanks, > Mel

Every dis-interested party that has ever done a report on them agree, they are a rip-off.  If you can talk the price way down, and I mean way down, it may be worth it.  Make sure you read all the fine print on what it does and does not cover, and what your responsibilities are to keep it in force (You may be obligated to maintaining a very strict maintenace schedule, for example). — John <rant> Made the mistake of believing Freeserve ads ‘Use the Internet as often as you like, any time you like’ What they really mean is once in awhile, but not to often, otherwise you get a nasty letter from Keith Hawkins Consumer Managing Director </rant>

Response:

Wondering what 8,000 miles has to do with it?  Unless GM has changed their plans in the last 1 1/2 years, you can purchase any plan up until you reach the limits of the factory warranty. (3-36 in the case of a GMC).  I used to tell my customers the following:  If you plan to keep the truck a long time, and/or drive a lot of miles, I would seriously consider the Major Guard warranty.  That’s the best one, the one that covers most everything.  It’s the only one I would recommend.  The others leave too much uncovered.  If you usually trade every couple or three years, and/or you don’t drive a lot of miles; you are probably wasting your money on an extended service contract. Of course the upper management didn’t care for me advising customers this, they wanted me to push for every customer to buy one.  I just wanted to be upfront and honest with every customer.  It helped me get more return and referrals when I was a floor salesman.  Just remember, don’t buy anything but a GM warranty, and just like the price of the truck, the price of the warranty is negotiable. Jerry H.– retired GMC sales manager

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with it. We > are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on vehicles. > We’d > like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are > particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can now > say > whether or not it paid. > Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the extension??? > Thanks, > Mel > Every dis-interested party that has ever done a report on them agree, they > are a rip-off.  If you can talk the price way down, and I mean way down, it > may be worth it.  Make sure you read all the fine print on what it does and > does not cover, and what your responsibilities are to keep it in force (You > may be obligated to maintaining a very strict maintenace schedule, for > example). > — > John > <rant> > Made the mistake of believing Freeserve ads ‘Use the Internet as often as > you like, any time you like’ > What they really mean is once in awhile, but not to often, otherwise you get > a nasty letter from > Keith Hawkins > Consumer Managing Director > </rant>

Response:

We have 7k miles on our new 2003 Sierra and we are very happy with it. We are not big fans of buying the extended coverage contracts on vehicles. We’d like to hear some opinions of the GM extended coverage plans. We are particularly anxious to hear from those who bought coverage and can now say whether or not it paid. Quick, before we go over 8,000 milies, should we bou the extension??? Thanks, Mel

Response:

Timing chain 96 1500 5.7L

Question:

> Do these motors have any timing chain issues? 96 1500 5.7L 85K mi, well > maintained with synthetic and not abused.

They last awhile, that’s for sure.  These trucks most certainly do not have ‘timing chain issues.’ Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> –TW > "Build a man a fire, and he’ll be warm for a day. > Set a man on fire, and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life. " > -Terry Pratchett

Response:

This is why I bought a new GMC Sierra instead of a Toyota Tundra. My last timing chain lasted nearly 300,000 miles on a ‘78 Chevy 350-4. Hope my new one goes as long. I know the engine has a lot more power and better mileage than the old one ever did.

"Tundra Wookie"  wrote > Do these motors have any timing chain issues? 96 1500 5.7L 85K mi, well > maintained with synthetic and not abused.

I have seen very few timing chains replaced on these engines. Ian

Response:

Do these motors have any timing chain issues? 96 1500 5.7L 85K mi, well maintained with synthetic and not abused. –TW "Build a man a fire, and he’ll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life. " -Terry Pratchett

Response:

"Tundra Wookie"  wrote > Do these motors have any timing chain issues? 96 1500 5.7L 85K mi, well > maintained with synthetic and not abused.

I have seen very few timing chains replaced on these engines. Ian

Response:

Techline CD

Question:

I bought a set of GM SI 2000 cd’s on ebay about a year ago. About 5 cd’s total. They cant be updated but mine cover 98-02 gm cars and trucks. Like ian says the tsb’s are outdated. Still if they cover just one of your cars the price beats the heck out of one manual. I think I got mine for about 15 bucks. I couldnt get them to install off the cd’s, I had to dump everything onto the hard drive and then install from there. Just so you know they do install apache server software and java onto your pc so you will have more apps running in the background all the time. @att.net says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes Ian, those are the it. I know they get outdated with the tsb’s, > but it’s nice to have when looking at wiring on my 03 GMC Sierra. > Outdated CD’s wouldn’t really bother me for my use.. > Thanks, > "Fred Reyes"  wrote > > Does anybody know where I can download the Techline service CD? > Are you talking about the GM Service Information electronic > manuals?  If so….there is no point in downloading (if you could > find them) the install cd’s, as they are outdated within 2 months. > You may be able to subscribe to the on-line manuals…but > I’m not familiar with the procedure myself….as I have > access to the web site due to the fact that I’m a GM > dealership employee. > Ian

Response:

Yes Ian, those are the it. I know they get outdated with the tsb’s, but it’s nice to have when looking at wiring on my 03 GMC Sierra. Outdated CD’s wouldn’t really bother me for my use.. Thanks, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > "Fred Reyes"  wrote > Does anybody know where I can download the Techline service CD? > Are you talking about the GM Service Information electronic > manuals?  If so….there is no point in downloading (if you could > find them) the install cd’s, as they are outdated within 2 months. > You may be able to subscribe to the on-line manuals…but > I’m not familiar with the procedure myself….as I have > access to the web site due to the fact that I’m a GM > dealership employee. > Ian

Response:

"Fred Reyes"  wrote > Does anybody know where I can download the Techline service CD?

Are you talking about the GM Service Information electronic manuals?  If so….there is no point in downloading (if you could find them) the install cd’s, as they are outdated within 2 months. You may be able to subscribe to the on-line manuals…but I’m not familiar with the procedure myself….as I have access to the web site due to the fact that I’m a GM dealership employee. Ian

Response:

Yes, you can subscribe to them: http://www.acdelcotds.com/transaction/presubscription.asp Not cheap, at least for the DIYer: $20 for 1 day, $45 for 5 days, $150 for 1 month, or $1200 for 1 year. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Fred Reyes"  wrote > Does anybody know where I can download the Techline service CD? > Are you talking about the GM Service Information electronic > manuals?  If so….there is no point in downloading (if you could > find them) the install cd’s, as they are outdated within 2 months. > You may be able to subscribe to the on-line manuals…but > I’m not familiar with the procedure myself….as I have > access to the web site due to the fact that I’m a GM > dealership employee. > Ian

Response:

Does anybody know where I can download the Techline service CD? Thanks, Fred

Response:

Retained Acc Power (RAP) on a 03 GMC Sierra

Question:

Was just looking under the hood of my new-to-me S-10 today.  Noticed in the relay center in the engine bay there is a RAP relay, maybe you can tap it there, on the output pin of the relay… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >the bcm controls the rap relay. the bcm has an internal timer which can be >monitored with the techII Scanner > From a brief look, I can’t really see anyplace where there is an actual >RAP > feed. The devices controlled by RAP are either internally controlled by >the > BCM, or are controlled like you mentioned the radio is, by having a signal > sent to their module to turn on or off. > — > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > > Does anybody know where I can tap the Retained Acc Power (RAP) on an > > 03 GMC Sierra? I am adding XM radio and would like it to stay on with > > the radio. > > I have been through the fuse box and the door fuse boxes but could not > > find a RAP feed. > > For those of you that are going to tell me "behind the radio", in 03 > > GM changed the design of the radio. It has 12 volt battery and a > > switched/logic signal that tells the radio to go on or off. > > Thanks,

Response:

Does anybody know where I can tap the Retained Acc Power (RAP) on an 03 GMC Sierra? I am adding XM radio and would like it to stay on with the radio. I have been through the fuse box and the door fuse boxes but could not find a RAP feed. For those of you that are going to tell me "behind the radio", in 03 GM changed the design of the radio. It has 12 volt battery and a switched/logic signal that tells the radio to go on or off. Thanks,

Response:

From a brief look, I can’t really see anyplace where there is an actual RAP feed. The devices controlled by RAP are either internally controlled by the BCM, or are controlled like you mentioned the radio is, by having a signal sent to their module to turn on or off. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anybody know where I can tap the Retained Acc Power (RAP) on an > 03 GMC Sierra? I am adding XM radio and would like it to stay on with > the radio. > I have been through the fuse box and the door fuse boxes but could not > find a RAP feed. > For those of you that are going to tell me "behind the radio", in 03 > GM changed the design of the radio. It has 12 volt battery and a > switched/logic signal that tells the radio to go on or off. > Thanks,

Response:

the bcm controls the rap relay. the bcm has an internal timer which can be monitored with the techII Scanner

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> From a brief look, I can’t really see anyplace where there is an actual RAP > feed. The devices controlled by RAP are either internally controlled by the > BCM, or are controlled like you mentioned the radio is, by having a signal > sent to their module to turn on or off. > — > Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada > Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/ > Does anybody know where I can tap the Retained Acc Power (RAP) on an > 03 GMC Sierra? I am adding XM radio and would like it to stay on with > the radio. > I have been through the fuse box and the door fuse boxes but could not > find a RAP feed. > For those of you that are going to tell me "behind the radio", in 03 > GM changed the design of the radio. It has 12 volt battery and a > switched/logic signal that tells the radio to go on or off. > Thanks,

Response:

92 GMC SIERRA MISFIRING

Question:

I have a 92, gmc,k1500 pickup, v-6 fuel injected with the following problem-After engine warms up, it runs rough and misses under load(accelerating) I have changed the plugs, dist. cap and rotor, plug wires, coil, and fuel filter. I have had the "check engine" light come on periodically, but it only stays on for about 10 seconds and then goes off. Any ideas?  Thanks

Response:

Check for trouble codes – see www.troublecodes.net for instructions. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

> I have a 92, gmc,k1500 pickup, v-6 fuel injected with the following

problem-After engine warms up, it runs rough and misses under load(accelerating) I have changed the plugs, dist. cap and rotor, plug wires, coil, and fuel filter. I have had the "check engine" light come on periodically, but it only stays on for about 10 seconds and then goes off. Any ideas?  Thanks – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response: