Lock for my tailgate
Question:
John, I too have installed the electric lock. The one I bought was made by Pop N’ Lock. It was easy to install and works great. I installed it on a 2000 GMC Sierra 4X4. It’s been on there for just over 2 years now, no problems at all. -Glenn
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What is the best product to make sure my tailgate will be locked? Would it > be a coverplate or will it replace the handle mechanism?
Response:
I think thats what I will get, the manual one that fits into the lock recess
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> What is the best product to make sure my tailgate will be locked? Would it >> be a coverplate or will it replace the handle mechanism? > I bought the electric Pop ‘N Lock that installs inside the tailgate and wires > into the factory switch. Great idea, but it doesn’t work. > First of all, it was a m#therf#cker to install. You have to remove the latch > assembly and reinstall it with the lock plate sandwiched between it and the > tailgate, while reaching through a 2" x 4" hole and cutting the crap out of > your hands Oh, and don’t forget to move the z-bars out of the way, or you’ll > be removing the whole thing again. I’m a decent shadetree mechanic (brakes, > electrical, minor engine, etc). Iit took me 3 hours to get it in and wired. > Second, the one I bought wasn’t drilled properly for the S-10 Crew Cab, even > though it was the right model number listed. The company sent me a new one, > and let me keep the old one, but it was a 7-day wait. > Third, the lock striker doesn’t quite block the latch pawl mechanism 100%. A > good, hard tug on the handle still opens the gate. I’ve tried adjusting it and > adding bushings on the end to no avail. And, unlike a door handle which moves > freely when locked, the tailgate latch handle is supposed to be "locked", or > "fixed". A natural reaction is to pull harder. This will only weaken and > eventually break the striker. > Fourth, the electric lock solenoid failed after 3 months. I still had the > original one (that didn’t fit), so I just swapped solenoids. I figure the > thing will last another few months, then I’ll just sh#tcan it > Fifth and finally, anyone with a casual knowledge of these trucks will know > that the tailgate handle bezel pops out quite easily without tools, allowing > access to the Z-bars which control the tailgate latches. This readily bypasses > the lock, and now the thief can walk away with the contents off your bed AND > the tailgate, lock and all. > All in all, a complete waste of money. Go for the manual insert.
Response:
What is the best product to make sure my tailgate will be locked? Would it be a coverplate or will it replace the handle mechanism?
Response:
I saw one that goes under the pullup handle and has a key lock. It installs quickly, but cost about $30-35. I would be interested in others that are not quite so expensive or other home spun solutions. MR
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What is the best product to make sure my tailgate will be locked? Would it > be a coverplate or will it replace the handle mechanism?
Response:
They make some that are electric locks, no key hole. Locks and unlocks with the use of the key fob. Not sure who it is that makes them but they’re out there… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What is the best product to make sure my tailgate will be locked? Would it > be a coverplate or will it replace the handle mechanism?
Response:
>> What is the best product to make sure my tailgate will be locked? Would it > be a coverplate or will it replace the handle mechanism?
I bought the electric Pop ‘N Lock that installs inside the tailgate and wires into the factory switch. Great idea, but it doesn’t work. First of all, it was a m#therf#cker to install. You have to remove the latch assembly and reinstall it with the lock plate sandwiched between it and the tailgate, while reaching through a 2" x 4" hole and cutting the crap out of your hands Oh, and don’t forget to move the z-bars out of the way, or you’ll be removing the whole thing again. I’m a decent shadetree mechanic (brakes, electrical, minor engine, etc). Iit took me 3 hours to get it in and wired. Second, the one I bought wasn’t drilled properly for the S-10 Crew Cab, even though it was the right model number listed. The company sent me a new one, and let me keep the old one, but it was a 7-day wait. Third, the lock striker doesn’t quite block the latch pawl mechanism 100%. A good, hard tug on the handle still opens the gate. I’ve tried adjusting it and adding bushings on the end to no avail. And, unlike a door handle which moves freely when locked, the tailgate latch handle is supposed to be "locked", or "fixed". A natural reaction is to pull harder. This will only weaken and eventually break the striker. Fourth, the electric lock solenoid failed after 3 months. I still had the original one (that didn’t fit), so I just swapped solenoids. I figure the thing will last another few months, then I’ll just sh#tcan it Fifth and finally, anyone with a casual knowledge of these trucks will know that the tailgate handle bezel pops out quite easily without tools, allowing access to the Z-bars which control the tailgate latches. This readily bypasses the lock, and now the thief can walk away with the contents off your bed AND the tailgate, lock and all. All in all, a complete waste of money. Go for the manual insert.
