thank you

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Yea it’s pretty weird when it only does it like once a month and it happens only in the early morning, since i live in vegas that’s about the only time it’s cold. I just ordered the part, if it doesn’t happen again it’ll be worth it, it’s only about $20

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Could you have an alarm that you don’t know about. Motion sensor alarm ? The morning paper boy could be playing tricks. Just a thought – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working >properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of >my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this >once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the >morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING >about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few >custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do >with it

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Could be the door light switch. If it is sticking, it can fool the computer into thinking that there is a breech in the security system. Something basic to check out. My 2000 Cavalier was doing the exact same thing. Haven"t figured out how to post to the newsgroup yet, sorry about the email. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working >properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of >my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this >once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the >morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING >about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few >custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do >with it

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I don’t have a remote start, but i’m getting one this saturday.

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No i’m pretty sure I don’t have an alarm, there’s no paperboy anyway. I have NO clue why it’s doing this.

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I don’t have a security system on my truck yet, get one friday. But i’ll check if the switch because my inside lights don’t even turn on when i open my doors.

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I would suspect that you have the GM Passlock II system. Do you have a key fob to lock and unlock your doors? If not,  than I doubt it could be the door switch.  I’m not sure that year had the keyless entry or not. But, if you are already having problems with it than  check it out anyway.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I don’t have a security system on my truck yet, get one friday. But i’ll > check if the switch because my inside lights don’t even turn on when i > open my doors.

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Another thought, might as well unplug the horn. Until you get it fixed. I know the neighbours would appreciate it also. LOL. Mike .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I don’t have a security system on my truck yet, get one friday. But i’ll > check if the switch because my inside lights don’t even turn on when i > open my doors.

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Might be a warped steering wheel horn pad causing contact with the horn contact inside the steering column – thus blowing the horn. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~298,704 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

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I do have the remote entry but it doesn’t work for whatever reason, my car was broken into recently and hasn’t been the same since. When the horn goes off it’s a steady sound there’s no chirps or anything only constant horn, and why does it only go off in cold weather? I pulled the horn relay and of course it stopped I just hope I can still drive it without that in there.

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when my truck was broken into they ripped up the colom and the horn panel and the steering panels had to all be replaced, plus previous to being broken into I had the same problem, same time in the morning, but i just hit the horn and it stopped this time when i hit it it didn’t stop so i had to pull the horn relay. I’m still not certain what the problem is? all idea are appreciated and being looked into

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haha yea i did it. I’m just not sure how long the horn is going before I get out there and tunr it off. It was too early and too cold to sit out there and mess with it so ijust pulled the relay think that’ll cause any damage?

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No, you should be ok

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> haha yea i did it. I’m just not sure how long the horn is going before I > get out there and tunr it off. It was too early and too cold to sit out > there and mess with it so ijust pulled the relay think that’ll cause any > damage?

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Unplugging the horn relay will not effect anything except the horn. Everything you know as normal should be just that without the horn. There is a way to program te fob,  and I have it here some place, when I find it I’ll send it via email. I’ve also read it on here someplace also. Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It was warped, well the column wasn’t warped, but the metal plate behind > the Horn column was warped to one side and was very close together and > when the weather got cold enough it would cause the plastic to condense > causing the wire to touch the metal plate thus making the horn go off. > awesome guys! thanks for the input really helped out. now only if someone > knows why my remote entry pad doesn’t work or if anyone knows how to > program them

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You most likely on the right track.  I once owned a Caddy with a "rim blow" steering wheel.  One could blow the horn by squeezing the wheel   When it got cold the cover would contract blowing the horn.  Try removing the cover and placing a thin piece of foam under it, then replace, WBMA mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Might be a warped steering wheel horn pad causing contact with the horn > contact inside the steering column – thus blowing the horn. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey > _~_~_~298,704 miles_~_~_ > ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ > 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible > 78 Holiday 88 coupe > 68 LeSabre convertible > 73 Impala sedan

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http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic8206.htm Try this link for the fob programming. Might even help you out with the horn issue

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You most likely on the right track.  I once owned a Caddy with a > "rim blow" steering wheel.  One could blow the horn by squeezing > the wheel   When it got cold the cover would contract blowing the > horn.  Try removing the cover and placing a thin piece of foam > under it, then replace, WBMA > mike hunt > Might be a warped steering wheel horn pad causing contact with the horn > contact inside the steering column – thus blowing the horn. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey > _~_~_~298,704 miles_~_~_ > ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ > 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible > 78 Holiday 88 coupe > 68 LeSabre convertible > 73 Impala sedan

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I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do with it

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Maybe your remote car starter is set to start the truck when it gets below a certain temperature and it was hooked up wrong so rather than starting the truck it blows the horn. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working > properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of > my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this > once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the > morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING > about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few > custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do > with it

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this is my first GMC (2004 Sierra p/u 4800 vortec) and I thought it abnormal when it couldn’t warm up at idle.  The dealer replaced the thermostat but it still doesn’t warm up at idle.  I’ve driven 5 miles to work and left it idling for over twenty minutes and the gauge reads 175.  When driving it will warm up to almost 210 but it takes a lot longer than my other car.  If it’s cold enough outside, say below zero, it will actually start to cool down if I leave it idling.  I’ve let it idle for 20 minutes in the morning before so I could have a warm car and didn’t.  Is this normal?  Did I get another bad thermostat?

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>If it’s cold enough outside, say below > zero, it will actually start to cool down if > I leave it idling. I’ve let it idle for 20 > minutes in the morning before so I could > have a warm car and didn’t. Is this > normal? Did I get another bad > thermostat?

I’m reading your post to mean you aren’t getting any heat from your heater….right? Or is the question about what your gauge is reading? Spitballing:  radiator cap, wrong/faulty stat, valve in the heater-hose line faulty, faulty gauge/sending unit…. Factory guages are nortorious for being less than accurate. The rad cap is the means the system uses to pressurize.  Without pressure the cooling system will not function properly.  Caps are inexpensive.  Possibly the stat is the wrong range.  A 195

My 94 EB, woulkd spin the engine very fast, it had a new battery. Would not fire though,  turned out to be a relay. Just unplugging and replugging worked, but a new one solved the problem. Ride safe Barry <

Over the past year or so, my 1992 GMC 4X4 (350 w/140K)has stalled 3 times at highway speeds.  Each time I have been able to coast to a stop, shut everything down, and restart successfully.  This problem has always happened during hot weather (approx 100 degrees)and on flat ground.  The truck has never had a new fuel pump, and I suspect that may be the problem, but I don’t want to replace it if it could be something else.  (The SES light comes on when the truck stalls, but is off immediately upon restart). How do the shops test fuel pressure on these trucks?  Any other thoughts about what may be causing the problem will be greatly appreciated. Dennis

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Over the past year or so, my 1992 GMC 4X4 (350 w/140K)has stalled 3 > times at highway speeds.  Each time I have been able to coast to a > stop, shut everything down, and restart successfully.  This problem > has always happened during hot weather (approx 100 degrees)and on flat > ground.  The truck has never had a new fuel pump, and I suspect that > may be the problem, but I don’t want to replace it if it could be > something else.  (The SES light comes on when the truck stalls, but is > off immediately upon restart). > How do the shops test fuel pressure on these trucks?  Any other > thoughts about what may be causing the problem will be greatly > appreciated. > Dennis >  What code is stored when the SES light comes on?

Not sure.  Can I retrieve the codes on a ‘92 without special diagnostic equipment?  Seems like I read a post in this NG not too long ago about shorting across some connections and counting the long/short blinks of the SES light. The most recent stall would likely be the most current SES event, since it happened two days ago. Dennis

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> Over the past year or so, my 1992 GMC 4X4 (350 w/140K)has stalled 3 > times at highway speeds.  Each time I have been able to coast to a > stop, shut everything down, and restart successfully.  This problem > has always happened during hot weather (approx 100 degrees)and on flat > ground.  The truck has never had a new fuel pump, and I suspect that > may be the problem, but I don’t want to replace it if it could be > something else.  (The SES light comes on when the truck stalls, but is > off immediately upon restart). > How do the shops test fuel pressure on these trucks?  Any other > thoughts about what may be causing the problem will be greatly > appreciated. > Dennis

What code is stored when the SES light comes on?

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> Has anyone else had this problem?  Does anyone know the ‘real’ cause this?

My ‘04 Silverado SS started doing this at 15.5K miles.  I had the knock for a good two to three days.  It was very loud and very noticeable. On the first day I noticed it, I sprayed some lithium grease up under the rubber boot on the engine side of the firewall, in a futile attempt to quiet it.  On the fourth day of the noise, it simply vanished. I did a lot of research, and I hear it’s a very common thing due to the lower quality/quantity of the lube in the steering shaft from the factory.  There is a TSB and a different lube the dealer will use (the kit number is on gm-trucks.com – it’s about $8 if you want to do it yourself.) Supposedly if the noise keeps coming back on you, tech’s are told to replace the steering shaft with a different model. I may have heard that the different model is designed to hold grease in better… -marc

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"brouge"  wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> At around 16,000 miles I started to feel a clunk in the steering wheel when > in a gradual turn either left or right and when hitting any small bump in > the road.  I called the local dealer’s service department and was told I > probably just needed the steering shaft repacked.  When I took the truck in > for service I quizzed the service writer.  He told me all the GM trucks did > this and that I should have the shaft repacked every 20K.  When I told him I > had just traded in another GMC that I ran for 75,000 miles and it never > required this service he replied it was just the new trucks that required > the service.  I’ve never owned a four wheel drive vehicle before so I don’t > know if this is something common to 4WD’s.  16,000 miles seems awfully soon > for things like this to start cropping up.  A co-worker who has a 2002 > Sierra said he had experienced the same problem. > Has anyone else had this problem?  Does anyone know the ‘real’ cause this?

The "real" cause is GM’s shitty quality on this intermediate steering shaft. But they aren’t going to fix it anytime soon, so you will either live with the noise, or repack the shaft assembly every now and then. Ian

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2003 GMC Z71 extended cab 5.3 litre engine At around 16,000 miles I started to feel a clunk in the steering wheel when in a gradual turn either left or right and when hitting any small bump in the road.  I called the local dealer’s service department and was told I probably just needed the steering shaft repacked.  When I took the truck in for service I quizzed the service writer.  He told me all the GM trucks did this and that I should have the shaft repacked every 20K.  When I told him I had just traded in another GMC that I ran for 75,000 miles and it never required this service he replied it was just the new trucks that required the service.  I’ve never owned a four wheel drive vehicle before so I don’t know if this is something common to 4WD’s.  16,000 miles seems awfully soon for things like this to start cropping up.  A co-worker who has a 2002 Sierra said he had experienced the same problem. Has anyone else had this problem?  Does anyone know the ‘real’ cause this? thanks,

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Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a 1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located on the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost? The problem with the lever is, I cannot turn the wiper switch on. It seems jammed and won’t roll forward. Also before this happened, when I want to turn the wipers off, they won’t park. I have to twist the the wiper switch backwards till the wipers are near park position then release the switch. The intermitent didn’t not work right either. They would just be low or high speeds. Would this be a switch problem, or up in the wiper motor itself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

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>Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a >1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located on >the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost? The >problem with the lever is, I cannot turn the wiper switch on. It seems >jammed and won’t roll forward. Also before this happened, when I want to >turn the wipers off, they won’t park. I have to twist the the wiper switch >backwards till the wipers are near park position then release the switch. >The intermitent didn’t not work right either. They would just be low or high >speeds. Would this be a switch problem, or up in the wiper motor itself. >Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks >Mike

The lever pulls right out.  Best to try at the scrap yard before you work up the courage to do it on your own.  Once you do it you will be surprised at how easy it is. — Regards Gordie

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>Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a >1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located on >the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost?

I hope for your sake it’s gonna be a hell lot off cheaper than overhere. I payd 120Euro and had to install myself or theye would’ve taken another 100Euro for installing. Since one our in the shop costs about 65Euro. The mechanic told me the lever is the easiest thing, but the cable for the CC is sometimes a pain in the … . Good luck wih the fiddeling with the cable. Marc Heerlen, The Netherlands K1500 ‘88 4X4

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a >1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located on >the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost? > I hope for your sake it’s gonna be a hell lot off cheaper than overhere. I > payd 120Euro and had to install myself or theye would’ve taken another > 100Euro for installing. Since one our in the shop costs about 65Euro. The > mechanic told me the lever is the easiest thing, but the cable for the CC is > sometimes a pain in the … . > Good luck wih the fiddeling with the cable. > Marc > Heerlen, The Netherlands > K1500 ‘88 4X4

There is an easy way to do it….the cruise cable goes the length of the steering column. Think its 4 tiny wires wrapped in black sleeve. It plugs into a connector on the column under the dash. In that connector is a hole, use a piece of piano wire to loop in the hole when pulling the old switch out. Then when putting on the new switch, connect the piano wire to the new connector and pull it back down the column with the piano wire. Shouldn’t take more then 20minutes. New switch is around $100 from the dealer. Doug

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a >>1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located on >>the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost? > There is an easy way to do it….the cruise cable goes the length of the > steering column. Think its 4 tiny wires wrapped in black sleeve. It > plugs into a connector on the column under the dash. In that connector > is a hole, use a piece of piano wire to loop in the hole when pulling > the old switch out. Then when putting on the new switch, connect the > piano wire to the new connector and pull it back down the column with > the piano wire. Shouldn’t take more then 20minutes. New switch is around > $100 from the dealer. > Doug

 I got the cruise wire all figured out. But the new switch ($112 CDN retail 72 my cost) The problem I have now is how to run the switch wires through the column with a big plug on one end, and the switch on the other. They don’t come apart. I am going to install this tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help guys. Very much appreciated. Mike

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >>Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a >> >>1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located >on >> >>the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost? >> There is an easy way to do it….the cruise cable goes the length of the >> steering column. Think its 4 tiny wires wrapped in black sleeve. It >> plugs into a connector on the column under the dash. In that connector >> is a hole, use a piece of piano wire to loop in the hole when pulling >> the old switch out. Then when putting on the new switch, connect the >> piano wire to the new connector and pull it back down the column with >> the piano wire. Shouldn’t take more then 20minutes. New switch is around >> $100 from the dealer. >> Doug > I got the cruise wire all figured out. But the new switch ($112 CDN retail >72 my cost) The problem I have now is how to run the switch wires through >the column with a big plug on one end, and the switch on the other. They >don’t come apart. I am going to install this tomorrow. I will let you know >how it goes. Thanks for the help guys. Very much appreciated. >Mike > You will notice that the wires on one side of the ribbon are linger > than the ones on the ther side,  What happens is the big plug on the > end actually goes down the column sideways.  If you are retrofitting a > column that has not bee fitted with cruse from the factory you will > need to pull the steering wheel to get at the passageway so you can > feed the plug down from the top.  You will also have to pull the lever > out of the switch the way I suggested in my previous post and then you > can get the plastic housing off and then you can do the work. > If you are replacing an existing cruise switch and wiring you can use > piano wire (who has THAT kicking around?) or just pull a string > through with the old plug and pull the new plug back through with the > string. > The cruise from a car has shorter wires than for a truck. > These are things I found out the hard way > — > Regards > Gordie

All fixed. Everything is working great now. The intermitent is working great. The switch needed replacement, because it was stripped inside, but the intermitent wasn’t working even after the new switch was put in. But I found the problem to be in the top electrical plug on the wiper motor was bad. It wasn’t making a connection. So I took the plug apart and resoldered it back together and, voila! everything works perfect. Thanks again guys. Mike

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >>Anyone know the proper way to remove the turn signal lever arm? I have a > >>1987 GMC Sierra, tilt, cruise and intermitent wiper switch are located >on > >>the signal lever arm. Also any idea what a new switch would cost? > There is an easy way to do it….the cruise cable goes the length of the > steering column. Think its 4 tiny wires wrapped in black sleeve. It > plugs into a connector on the column under the dash. In that connector > is a hole, use a piece of piano wire to loop in the hole when pulling > the old switch out. Then when putting on the new switch, connect the > piano wire to the new connector and pull it back down the column with > the piano wire. Shouldn’t take more then 20minutes. New switch is around > $100 from the dealer. > Doug > I got the cruise wire all figured out. But the new switch ($112 CDN retail >72 my cost) The problem I have now is how to run the switch wires through >the column with a big plug on one end, and the switch on the other. They >don’t come apart. I am going to install this tomorrow. I will let you know >how it goes. Thanks for the help guys. Very much appreciated. >Mike

You will notice that the wires on one side of the ribbon are linger than the ones on the ther side,  What happens is the big plug on the end actually goes down the column sideways.  If you are retrofitting a column that has not bee fitted with cruse from the factory you will need to pull the steering wheel to get at the passageway so you can feed the plug down from the top.  You will also have to pull the lever out of the switch the way I suggested in my previous post and then you can get the plastic housing off and then you can do the work. If you are replacing an existing cruise switch and wiring you can use piano wire (who has THAT kicking around?) or just pull a string through with the old plug and pull the new plug back through with the string. The cruise from a car has shorter wires than for a truck. These are things I found out the hard way — Regards Gordie

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> Standard suspension

A few things to look into. 1)  Do you have P or LT rated tires?  LT’s will ride much firmer than P-rated tires. 2)  What is your tire pressure?  35 psi should give you the best ride. 3)  I’ve had great results with Gabriel Sport-Ryder shocks on my truck. Ride nice, cheap as dirt, lifetime warranty, and 40k later they’re still going strong. Doc

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Since I bought the truck a few years back (used) I have always found it rough on bumps… especially the front, not smooth at all. Similar trucks I have rode in I find the suspension is much more forgiving. Mine seems to ride like a heavy duty 2500. I was going to buy new shocks… but I am not certain if that is the problem. Can anyone help me out? Thanks

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> Since I bought the truck a few years back (used) I have always found it > rough on bumps… especially the front, not smooth at all. Similar > trucks I have rode in I find the suspension is much more forgiving. > Mine seems to ride like a heavy duty 2500. > I was going to buy new shocks… but I am not certain if that is the > problem. > Can anyone help me out? > Thanks

Is yours the Z71 or standard suspension? Doc

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Standard suspension

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    The body of this car is cracking from the front pillar between the door and the side window.  It cracking right in the bend.     Has anyone seen this before?     I bought the car new and it is has never been in an accident…  Are those pillars fiberglass or something.     Don’t tell me that this one is flexing like my 1995 GMC Sierra did..  I sold that after getting it fixed 6 times in the first 2 months.  The back window kept falling out.  Sure it was under warranty, but it was still a nuisance to get fixed. Jeff

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     The body of this car is cracking from the front pillar between the door > and the side window.  It cracking right in the bend. >     Has anyone seen this before? >     I bought the car new and it is has never been in an accident…  Are > those pillars fiberglass or something. >     Don’t tell me that this one is flexing like my 1995 GMC Sierra did.. I > sold that after getting it fixed 6 times in the first 2 months.  The back > window kept falling out.  Sure it was under warranty, but it was still a > nuisance to get fixed. > Jeff

The body is steel with the exception of any ground effects the car might have. Two vehicles that the body is flexing and cracking on? What kind of reoads do you drive on? nospam

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >     The body of this car is cracking from the front pillar between the door > and the side window.  It cracking right in the bend. >     Has anyone seen this before? >     I bought the car new and it is has never been in an accident…  Are > those pillars fiberglass or something. >     Don’t tell me that this one is flexing like my 1995 GMC Sierra did..  I > sold that after getting it fixed 6 times in the first 2 months.  The back > window kept falling out.  Sure it was under warranty, but it was still a > nuisance to get fixed. > Jeff

I’ve seen it on unibody construction but not until about 200k miles.

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The GMC did not ever Crack… Window just kept popping out… My 94 Grand Prix never cracked.  I had that until 195K miles.. My 98 Grand Am just has that little inch long crack that I just noticed at 80k miles..  The body is beautifull shape otherwise.. No Rust…. Some chips in the hood from driving the interstate…  Rock chips and so on..  It will probably be ok.. Mostly interstate driving for me. Jeff

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     The body of this car is cracking from the front pillar between the > door > and the side window.  It cracking right in the bend. >     Has anyone seen this before? >     I bought the car new and it is has never been in an accident…  Are > those pillars fiberglass or something. >     Don’t tell me that this one is flexing like my 1995 GMC Sierra did.. > I > sold that after getting it fixed 6 times in the first 2 months.  The back > window kept falling out.  Sure it was under warranty, but it was still a > nuisance to get fixed. > Jeff > The body is steel with the exception of any ground effects the car might > have. Two vehicles that the body is flexing and cracking on? What kind of > reoads do you drive on? > nospam

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Has someone been playing Dukes Of Hazzard with your car? Perhaps the car was banged up before you purchased it and were not informed about it. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

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Paul wrote <>:: I’ve seen it on unibody construction but not until 200K miles. Uh Oh ! I’m 79,000 past due. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Paul wrote <>:: I’ve seen it on unibody construction but not until 200K > miles. > Uh Oh ! I’m 79,000 past due. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

Look carefully around the B pillar. (That Imports spam site crashes my Netscape also.)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     The body of this car is cracking from the front pillar between the door > and the side window.  It cracking right in the bend. >     Has anyone seen this before? >     I bought the car new and it is has never been in an accident…  Are > those pillars fiberglass or something. >     Don’t tell me that this one is flexing like my 1995 GMC Sierra did.. I > sold that after getting it fixed 6 times in the first 2 months.  The back > window kept falling out.  Sure it was under warranty, but it was still a > nuisance to get fixed. > Jeff

    What you have is a stress crack. Which means your car has seen, and  is seeing Extreme Flex.     Stress Cracks are common on all 82 to 92 F-bodies (Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am) where the B-pillar meets the roof. F-body cars Flex, and Twist under normal driving conditions. They are the Extreme in GM flex-I-fliers. All  GM Uni-body cars will flex, trust me, owning a lift proves this. Lift a GM Uni-body car by the factory lift points, not the emergency jacking points, and  it’s a 50/50 gamble  if the doors will open.     Yet for a Grand Am to exhibit such flex on the road as to crack the A-Pillar, you have a serious issue. The Pillars are some of the strongest parts of the body. They have to be able to hold the weight of the car from crushing the roof in, during low speed roll overs. When  you think about the weight of a car, compared to the size of the pillars, and the fact that they will hold. You get an idea of how ridged they are. On that note, if the pillar keeps cracking, you will have a cracked, if  not crunched windshield.     You car should be inspected right away. Not by a dealer, but by a body shop that specializes in frame collision work. Don’t give them any stories, don’t mention any  thing about suing the manufacture, ect ect. Just get an un-biased report of the cause, and how extensive it is.     As for the truck you had, to lose 1 back glass meant  a serious problem. To lose 6, and not have the dimensions checked, was moronic on someone’s part at the service center. Truck cab’s don’t flex. Lose two body mounts, and they don’t flex. They shake. They do not normally even distort around the remaining mounts. Only under  extreme duress do they, normally by then the driver would be dead.     They will buckle inwards from impacts. So unless someone had dropped enough of a load on the roof of the truck to deform it, pushed in on the car sides, and the bed wall. The window should not have popped out unless the panels were not joined in alignment and  measurements. This would have also shown in the door gaps, and the  fender to door gaps. Charles

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> Has someone been playing Dukes Of Hazzard with your car? > Perhaps the car was banged up before you purchased it and were not > informed about it. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey

Nah.  Turns out the owner lives close to me…  Talked to the dude.. He traded it in for a Dodge Truck.  All he ever did was replace the alternator..

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Doesn’t fit a 1997 Chevy S10 Extended Cab does it? I would trade some stuff for the Shell, and sell my pick up with a shell for $7,500 if anyone is interested.?. Only 39,311 miles on it right now as it sits. Looks and runs perfect! Jerry

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I am selling the bedshell from my 2001 GMC Sierra.  The Shell fits 1999-2002 Chevy or GMC.  It is in excellent condition.  I have photos if interested. The color is tan/neutral.  Used on my truck for only 6 months.  No Damage. Has sliding windows on both sides with screen.  Dual locking handles on the back window.  Back window has the hydrolics which are still in excellent condition.  Has heavy dark tint on three of four sides.  Asking $800.  Paid $1200 for color to match the paint.  Selling Because I traded my truck in and the dealership was not going to give anything extra for the shell. Please email if you have any questions or wish to see the photos.  ONLY SERIOUS REPLY PLEASE. pREjAZZ aT  HOTMAIL dot COM

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I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed the bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was white. It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without any problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of the truck is also burned the same way. Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat buildup. Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during daylight hours so they get a lot of use. Any thoughts on this would be welcome. Clark

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| I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a | burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is | contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed the | bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder | close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was white. | It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it | certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without any | problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of the | truck is also burned the same way. | | Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that | something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat buildup. | Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during | daylight hours so they get a lot of use. | | Any thoughts on this would be welcome. | | Clark | | I know a guy at the office that had a 2000 Silverado (now has a 2004 Silverado) and has replaced the DRL lamps a few times.  I’ll check with him tomorrow and if no one else has a response here by then will post what he tells me.

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| I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a | burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is | contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed the | bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder | close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was white. | It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it | certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without any | problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of the | truck is also burned the same way. | | Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that | something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat buildup. | Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during | daylight hours so they get a lot of use. | | Any thoughts on this would be welcome. | | Clark | | Checked with a buddy of mine at the office that used to own a 2000 Silverado. He said that he changed the DRL bulbs twice (that he remembers) and had never noticed burned or charred looking sockets.  He hasn’t had to change the ones in his 2004 Silverado yet. Then I checked with another buddy of mine that has a 2001 GMC Tahoe.  He has changed his DRL bulbs once and also says he doesn’t remember observing what you describe. Curious, is this your 1st bulb change?  I would think that if the bulbs were being over-driven by too high of voltage, they would have failed long ago.  If you’ve changed them once before, maybe they were the wrong wattage (higher than design) and generating too much heat?

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James, thanks for your input. I think I may have changed one or both bulbs in the past but can’t remember for sure.  Your idea about wrong bulb, wattage too high, is worth looking into.  I’ll check into this.  Thanks again. Clark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > | I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a > | burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is > | contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed the > | bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder > | close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was white. > | It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it > | certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without any > | problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of the > | truck is also burned the same way. > | > | Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that > | something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat buildup. > | Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during > | daylight hours so they get a lot of use. > | > | Any thoughts on this would be welcome. > | > | Clark > | > | > Checked with a buddy of mine at the office that used to own a 2000 Silverado. > He said that he changed the DRL bulbs twice (that he remembers) and had never > noticed burned or charred looking sockets.  He hasn’t had to change the ones in > his 2004 Silverado yet. > Then I checked with another buddy of mine that has a 2001 GMC Tahoe.  He has > changed his DRL bulbs once and also says he doesn’t remember observing what you > describe. > Curious, is this your 1st bulb change?  I would think that if the bulbs were > being over-driven by too high of voltage, they would have failed long ago. If > you’ve changed them once before, maybe they were the wrong wattage (higher than > design) and generating too much heat?

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Just a thought.  I know J.C. Whitney sells over-wattage headlamp bulbs, etc. and often cause overheating of the lamp assemblies for those people that use them (not to mention they’re illegal anyway).  Good luck!

| James, thanks for your input. I think I may have changed one or both bulbs | in the past but can’t remember for sure.  Your idea about wrong bulb, | wattage too high, is worth looking into.  I’ll check into this.  Thanks | again. | | Clark | | > | > | I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a | > | burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is | > | contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed | the | > | bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder | > | close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was | white. | > | It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it | > | certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without | any | > | problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of | the | > | truck is also burned the same way. | > | | > | Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that | > | something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat | buildup. | > | Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during | > | daylight hours so they get a lot of use. | > | | > | Any thoughts on this would be welcome. | > | | > | Clark | > | | > | | > | > Checked with a buddy of mine at the office that used to own a 2000 | Silverado. | > He said that he changed the DRL bulbs twice (that he remembers) and had | never | > noticed burned or charred looking sockets.  He hasn’t had to change the | ones in | > his 2004 Silverado yet. | > | > Then I checked with another buddy of mine that has a 2001 GMC Tahoe.  He | has | > changed his DRL bulbs once and also says he doesn’t remember observing | what you | > describe. | > | > Curious, is this your 1st bulb change?  I would think that if the bulbs | were | > being over-driven by too high of voltage, they would have failed long ago. | If | > you’ve changed them once before, maybe they were the wrong wattage (higher | than | > design) and generating too much heat? | > | > | > | |

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Mine is a 2000 Silverado Z71 and the light housing has the same discolouration. I have replaced one of them and within a month it was the same….so i hope it is normal

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a > burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is > contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed the > bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder > close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was white. > It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it > certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without any > problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of the > truck is also burned the same way. > Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that > something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat buildup. > Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during > daylight hours so they get a lot of use. > Any thoughts on this would be welcome. > Clark

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I wonder if some were made with lamp holder sockets in a dark color instead if white.  If they were already a dark color (brown or black) then the darkening wouldn’t be as evident.  Hmmm, curious question.

| Mine is a 2000 Silverado Z71 and the light housing has the same | discolouration. I have replaced one of them and within a month it was the | same….so i hope it is normal | > I own a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton pickup.  Recently I had to replace a | > burned-out light bulb. It was one of the Daytime Running Lights which is | > contained in a housing below the headlights housing.  When I unscrewed the | > bulb holder from the housing I noticed that the area of the bulb holder | > close to the bulb base was brown – the rest of the bulb holder was white. | > It appears to me the discolouration is due to heat from the bulb – it | > certainly appears to be burned. I was able to replace the bulb without any | > problem and the light again works.  The bulb holder on the other side of | the | > truck is also burned the same way. | > | > Is this discolouration due to the heat normal,  or does it suggest that | > something is wrong such as voltage may be too high causing a heat buildup. | > Since these are Daytime Running Lights, they are constantly on during | > daylight hours so they get a lot of use. | > | > Any thoughts on this would be welcome. | > | > Clark | > | > | |

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