Convert R12 to R134a?
Question:
Barry, If you take it to a dealer they will use R-12, They won’t do a conversion for liability reasons. If you want to do it yourself then you need to replace the compressor,accumulator, and all the O-rings in the system (old ones are not compatible with 134A), you will also need the conversion fittings for the high and low side connections. You should also flush the system to eliminate as much old oil as possible. Then evacuate the system to check for leaks, then recharge with 134A. You will drop about 4% cooling ability pound for pound against R-12 in a conversion. Not a big problem in a pickup but it can be a big deal in a Blazer or Van with the larger greenhouse area. One last Item, make sure you put the conversion sticker on over the original R-12 tag. Steve W.
1989 GMC Safari with front and rear A/C is low on freon. Last charge lasted about 2 years. There is some oil leakage around the compressor. I expect that I will replace the compressor and accumulator. What is GM doing for A/C repairs on these vehicles? Are they converting to 134a or repairing as R12? What components are being replaced for conversions? Thanks! Barry
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Response:
I’m in favor of the R134A conversion, no great loss of cooling performance. The high cost of R 12 means if your keeping the car, the conversion will pay for itself. Use Ester based oil ! PAG oil is for new installations (changing everything) or cars factory outfitted with R 134A. PAG is a superior lubricant, but not compatible with R 12 oil, or Ester based oil. Ester based oil mixes with R12 oil, and is the choice for conversions. I’ve had my conversions for several years, know many people with similar conversions, no problems. Change orifice tube, the old ones plug up, prior to conversion for maximum performance. Nice thing about conversion is, use a thermometer, and high side guage to know when to top off. Cheap top offs offset loss of performance. I run mine at a low pressure to keep strain off old parts. The dehumidifying / defrosting performance is what matters to me, more so than maximum cooling.
Response:
1989 GMC Safari with front and rear A/C is low on freon. Last charge lasted about 2 years. There is some oil leakage around the compressor. I expect that I will replace the compressor and accumulator. What is GM doing for A/C repairs on these vehicles? Are they converting to 134a or repairing as R12? What components are being replaced for conversions? Thanks! Barry I had my ‘87 Toyota 4X4 converted when the evaporator had a leak. I replaced the evaporator coil and the expansion valve. Also the pressure switch when I had the dash tore out. My mechanic blew out the system, (did Not flush it) and used ester oil with R-134. He used adaptors to pull a vacuum on the system and to charge it. It has been working for two years now without any problems. He claims that if you do not flush the system you do not have to change hoses and O rings along with the condenser and dryer. (The old oil residue protects them according to him) If and when the compressor goes, I will change everything out. The parts store says it is mandatory to change the Condenser coil and dryer for the compressor to be covered under their warranty. Jarhead
Response:
For those interested in staying with R-12, I purchased many 12oz. cans when it was available. Since then I have gotten rid of my R-12 cars and now use R-134a. If you are interested in purchasing some or all of the R-12 e-mail me. Larry
Response:
The main reason to flush the entire system is because of catastrophic compressor failure. You need to get all that metal and teflon out of there. Otherwise you can have good luck just blowing it out, but the dryer still needs to be replaced. If you don’t cut any corners, it works very well for the cost.
1989 GMC Safari with front and rear A/C is low on freon. Last charge lasted about 2 years. There is some oil leakage around the compressor. I expect that I will replace the compressor and accumulator. What is GM doing for A/C repairs on these vehicles? Are they converting to 134a or repairing as R12? What components are being replaced for conversions? Thanks! Barry I had my ‘87 Toyota 4X4 converted when the evaporator had a leak. I replaced the evaporator coil and the expansion valve. Also the pressure switch when I had the dash tore out. My mechanic blew out the system, (did Not flush it) and used ester oil with R-134. He used adaptors to pull a vacuum on the system and to charge it. It has been working for two years now without any problems. He claims that if you do not flush the system you do not have to change hoses and O rings along with the condenser and dryer. (The old oil residue protects them according to him) If and when the compressor goes, I will change everything out. The parts store says it is mandatory to change the Condenser coil and dryer for the compressor to be covered under their warranty. Jarhead
Response:
Don’t know what components have to be replaced or the cost. I do know that the cooling efficiency drops off so you will notice a difference. Considering the cost or R12 and the amount of stuff out there that is mixed with propane (definitely an explosion hazard), I’d go with the conversion. I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it. ~ Thomas Jefferson ~
