Category: GMC Safari

97 blazer 4.3 has white exhause fume

Question:

hello, I have a 97 blazer with 196kmile (on engine). here in illinois, we have some teen temperatures lately and I notice, the car puts white smoke all the time, hot or cold. Most of the cars puts out white before they heat up but mine does all the time. 91 GMC safari with 4.3 Z engine does not smoke that much even it has 160 F thermostat. Do you have any idea whta might be the reason, or first what i should check.

Response:

White mist coming out of your tail pipe might be antifreeze. Check the level in the radiator. Have the cooling system pressure tested, you may have a blown head gasket. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~297,491 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

Those blazers are known for cooling system problems, so Harryface is probably correct.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> White mist coming out of your tail pipe might be antifreeze. Check the > level in the radiator. Have the cooling system pressure tested, you may > have a blown head gasket. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > 3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey > _~_~_~297,491 miles_~_~_ > ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ > 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible > 78 Holiday 88 coupe > 68 LeSabre convertible > 73 Impala sedan

Response:

>hello, I have a 97 blazer with 196kmile (on engine). here in illinois, >we have some teen temperatures lately and I notice, the car puts white >smoke all the time, hot or cold. Most of the cars puts out white before >they heat up but mine does all the time. 91 GMC safari with 4.3 Z >engine does not smoke that much even it has 160 F thermostat. Do you >have any idea whta might be the reason, or first what i should check.

If your coolant level is high enough and you haven’t added any it could just be that it’s too cold outside.  In some parts of Canada in the winter virtually every car is puffing white smoke. See if it smokes when it’s warm outside.  If not, might just be typical cold weather "smoke."

Response:

> Those blazers are known for cooling system problems, so Harryface is > probably correct.

But they aren’t particularly known for head gasket problems. It’s cold, probably just water vapor.  A lot of cars will put out what appears to be white smoke (water vapor) even once they are warmed up. Ian

Response:

It got 50s and the white smoke dissappeared. what botters me is, It smokes white even when the engine is hot. independent of how long i drive, it just smokes white when it is cold. My other cars smoke white for a short time – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Those blazers are known for cooling system problems, so Harryface is > probably correct. > But they aren’t particularly known for head gasket problems. > It’s cold, probably just water vapor.  A lot of cars will put out > what appears to be white smoke (water vapor) even once they > are warmed up. > Ian

Response:

> It got 50s and the white smoke dissappeared. what botters me is, It > smokes white even when the engine is hot. independent of how long i > drive, it just smokes white when it is cold. My other cars smoke white > for a short time

Different cars do different things.  I would not worry about it.  Have you taken a whiff of the exhaust itself?  If it was burning antifreeze, you should be able to smell it.  And if it was burning antifreeze, it would smoke hot or cold, no matter what the temp was. Ian

Response:

No funny smell. everything looks ok. thanks for the input – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It got 50s and the white smoke dissappeared. what botters me is, It > smokes white even when the engine is hot. independent of how long i > drive, it just smokes white when it is cold. My other cars smoke white > for a short time > Different cars do different things.  I would not worry about it. Have > you taken a whiff of the exhaust itself?  If it was burning antifreeze, > you should be able to smell it.  And if it was burning antifreeze, it > would smoke hot or cold, no matter what the temp was. > Ian

Response:

Allowable Tires Sizes '93 GMC Safari Van

Question:

Is your vehicle is equipped with traction control? mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 97 Astro that original came with 215-75R15. >I have experience using a set of 225-75R15 tires on it with some problems: > Thanks to everyone who responded to my question.  It would seem like going from > 205-75R15 to 215-75R15 shouln’t be a problem, as the diameter would only be > about a half inch difference.  I will consider this the maximum size then. > Have a nice Holiday. > Dale > TeleDale Key Service, > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

>I have a 97 Astro that original came with 215-75R15. >I have experience using a set of 225-75R15 tires on it with some problems:

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question.  It would seem like going from 205-75R15 to 215-75R15 shouln’t be a problem, as the diameter would only be about a half inch difference.  I will consider this the maximum size then.   Have a nice Holiday. Dale TeleDale Key Service,   http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

I have a 97 Astro that original came with 215-75R15. I have experience using a set of 225-75R15 tires on it with some problems: 1. With full passenger seating (8 people in car) and some luggage in the truck, the rear tires rub the wheel wells when it rides over relatively minor road bumps. 2. front tires rub on maximum turns if there is any looseness or folding   of the wheel well plastic covers. For these reasons, I would be going back to original size tires when I have to change tires again. David – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter).   > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first.   > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale > TeleDale Key Service,   > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

I hear you on the tire size. Best thing to do is go to the site www.astrosafari.com and do a search cuz I know they have asked the question. Otherwise, they can answer it for you. I have 225/70R15 which is same size as your stock size. Another option is to search www.overlandvans.com and decide if you want to do a little bit of lift to accomodate bigger tires. Not sure if they mention maximum tires sizes on that size. Regardless, a change in tire size will affect your speedo. One size won’t change it much but a few sizes bigger you may want to change your final drive and/or speedo gear. richard – 95 astro AWD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first. > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale > TeleDale Key Service, > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

I used to have an a 93 AWD Safari van and ran P225/70R15 Michelin X-One tires in the summer. They were great tires, much better than the stock Uniroyals one of which blew up on me. Those Michelins were on the van until just before I sold it. Tim or Linda – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> try www.tirerack.com >I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC >Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list > any >such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such >information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know >whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the > P235, and >so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. > When >I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches > (or >going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). >Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 >inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches > diameter).  I >hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they > can >check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a >message here first. >I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I > can >use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. >Thanks,  Dale >TeleDale Key Service, >http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale >1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

try www.tirerack.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first. > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale > TeleDale Key Service, > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

>Here’s a site that may help you. >http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html >Ed

Hi This is Dale again. I looked at that web page and made a couple of comparisons.  This information is very interesting, however, I don’t know yet whether the Safari vans can accomidate the P235.  I think that if I wanted to go one size up (from P205 to P215), that a half an inch shouldn’t cause any problem, but perhaps someone else’s reference material will have specific info on these vans. Thanks again for posting this stuff. TeleDale Key Service,   http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list > any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the > P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. > When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches > (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches > diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they > can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first. > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I > can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale

Here’s a site that may help you. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Ed

Response:

I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter).   Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a message here first.   I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. Thanks,  Dale TeleDale Key Service,   http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

Windows motor electric schem ??

Question:

Hi Dave!

>Does somebody have a schem where > this pink wire conected to and from, and > which fuse? > The Pink wire is the power feed to the Master switch on the drivers side > and also to the passenger side switch.  It comes from a Circuit Breaker > not a fuse.  The CB is 30A, the circuit number is #343 and the CB is ‘B’ > on the fuse block(lower CB of 2 CBs in the fuse block, next to the 20A > Wiper fuse)  The CB is powered ‘Hot’ in Run and Retained Accessory > power. > Dave S(Texas)

I can scan and send you the diagram. I have another problem with windows of my 91 safari. send me a message if you want. good luck. Yes, If You can to scan it for me it"ll be very helpful for me. Although I found the problem, 4 wires in the door were broken and I fixed them. But I still need the diagram. What is the problem You have? Thnak You, Gurevich Vladimir P.S. I wrote You by email but got an error message according Your mail… Try to reply me by email: vlgurevich  at  mail  dot ru

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >Does somebody have a schem where > > this pink wire conected to and from, and > > which fuse? > The Pink wire is the power feed to the Master switch on the drivers side > and also to the passenger side switch.  It comes from a Circuit Breaker > not a fuse.  The CB is 30A, the circuit number is #343 and the CB is ‘B’ > on the fuse block(lower CB of 2 CBs in the fuse block, next to the 20A > Wiper fuse)  The CB is powered ‘Hot’ in Run and Retained Accessory > power. > Dave S(Texas) > I can scan and send you the diagram. I have another problem with > windows of my 91 safari. send me a message if you want. good luck.

Response:

>Does somebody have a schem where > this pink wire conected to and from, and > which fuse?

The Pink wire is the power feed to the Master switch on the drivers side and also to the passenger side switch.  It comes from a Circuit Breaker not a fuse.  The CB is 30A, the circuit number is #343 and the CB is ‘B’ on the fuse block(lower CB of 2 CBs in the fuse block, next to the 20A Wiper fuse)  The CB is powered ‘Hot’ in Run and Retained Accessory power. Dave S(Texas)

Response:

> >Does somebody have a schem where > this pink wire conected to and from, and > which fuse? > The Pink wire is the power feed to the Master switch on the drivers side > and also to the passenger side switch.  It comes from a Circuit Breaker > not a fuse.  The CB is 30A, the circuit number is #343 and the CB is ‘B’ > on the fuse block(lower CB of 2 CBs in the fuse block, next to the 20A > Wiper fuse)  The CB is powered ‘Hot’ in Run and Retained Accessory > power. > Dave S(Texas)

I can scan and send you the diagram. I have another problem with windows of my 91 safari. send me a message if you want. good luck.

Response:

Sorry, I forgot… GMC Safari 1991

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have problem that the pink wire that connected to the switch of the > electric window doesn’t supply the power. > Does somebody have a schem where this pink wire conected to and from, and > which fuse?

Response:

I have problem that the pink wire that connected to the switch of the electric window doesn’t supply the power. Does somebody have a schem where this pink wire conected to and from, and which fuse?

Response:

Please state year make and model of vehicle.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have problem that the pink wire that connected to the switch of the > electric window doesn’t supply the power. > Does somebody have a schem where this pink wire conected to and from, and > which fuse?

Response:

>I have problem

What kind of car, what year, what model?

Response:

you need to tell everyone what make and model and year the car is before anyone can tell you if they have a schematic. — penumbral_shadowTrackpads.com! Community Forums, Gallery, more! 150,000 Photos, 3,000 Videos and growing! http://www.trackpads.com

Response:

GMC Safari 1999 – asking for assistance

Question:

Actually, the P-codes are Powertrain, B-codes are Body control codes. B2947 is "Security System Sensor Power CKT Low" B2960 is "Sec Sys Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid" B3031 is "Security System Controller in Learn Mode" and P1631 is "Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct" Everything points to the Passlock system. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Thanks to Ian, I guess we have to do what you suggested – in the end … >Hope somebody can help with the following ODB II-codes: >P1631,B2947,B2960,B3031. The P-code should be a message from the PassLock, but >the others? >Again, thanks for help … >Niels. >> Trying to help an disabled person with his GMC Safari 1999, I ask this >> competent group for help. GMC has (to my knowledge) no official >> representative i Norway, so little or no help can be expected here. >> The car is equip. with an Autostart-system (www.autostart.ca), but I >> believe the problem is to be found i the cars own system for >> protection against unautorized use. The car starts – with and without >> the Autostart-system – and then stops immidiately. Can anyone – in >> simle terms – tell me WHICH (security) factors influence on starting >> the car, assuming the basic factors as gas,electrical comp. … are >> OK? In other words: Where to start searching? I’ll have som OBD >> II-codes available in a few days, but would not be surprised if the >>  security area is not very well covered. Best regards Niels Nielsen. >If in fact it’s the factory security Passlock that is causing the problem, >it’s likely to be in the ignition switch area.  I know that in our >dealership, >the first order of business would be to completely disconnect the "auto >start" system, put the everything back the way it was from the factory, >and then proceed with the diagnosis.  Often, the installers muck something >up when they install their hardware. >Ian

Response:

Thanks to Ian, I guess we have to do what you suggested – in the end … Hope somebody can help with the following ODB II-codes: P1631,B2947,B2960,B3031. The P-code should be a message from the PassLock, but the others? Again, thanks for help … Niels. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Trying to help an disabled person with his GMC Safari 1999, I ask this > competent group for help. GMC has (to my knowledge) no official > representative i Norway, so little or no help can be expected here. > The car is equip. with an Autostart-system (www.autostart.ca), but I > believe the problem is to be found i the cars own system for > protection against unautorized use. The car starts – with and without > the Autostart-system – and then stops immidiately. Can anyone – in > simle terms – tell me WHICH (security) factors influence on starting > the car, assuming the basic factors as gas,electrical comp. … are > OK? In other words: Where to start searching? I’ll have som OBD > II-codes available in a few days, but would not be surprised if the >  security area is not very well covered. Best regards Niels Nielsen. >If in fact it’s the factory security Passlock that is causing the problem, >it’s likely to be in the ignition switch area.  I know that in our >dealership, >the first order of business would be to completely disconnect the "auto >start" system, put the everything back the way it was from the factory, >and then proceed with the diagnosis.  Often, the installers muck something >up when they install their hardware. >Ian

Response:

> Trying to help an disabled person with his GMC Safari 1999, I ask this > competent group for help. GMC has (to my knowledge) no official > representative i Norway, so little or no help can be expected here. > The car is equip. with an Autostart-system (www.autostart.ca), but I > believe the problem is to be found i the cars own system for > protection against unautorized use. The car starts – with and without > the Autostart-system – and then stops immidiately. Can anyone – in > simle terms – tell me WHICH (security) factors influence on starting > the car, assuming the basic factors as gas,electrical comp. … are > OK? In other words: Where to start searching? I’ll have som OBD > II-codes available in a few days, but would not be surprised if the >  security area is not very well covered. Best regards Niels Nielsen.

If in fact it’s the factory security Passlock that is causing the problem, it’s likely to be in the ignition switch area.  I know that in our dealership, the first order of business would be to completely disconnect the "auto start" system, put the everything back the way it was from the factory, and then proceed with the diagnosis.  Often, the installers muck something up when they install their hardware. Ian

Response:

Trying to help an disabled person with his GMC Safari 1999, I ask this competent group for help. GMC has (to my knowledge) no official representative i Norway, so little or no help can be expected here. The car is equip. with an Autostart-system (www.autostart.ca), but I believe the problem is to be found i the cars own system for protection against unautorized use. The car starts – with and without the Autostart-system – and then stops immidiately. Can anyone – in simle terms – tell me WHICH (security) factors influence on starting the car, assuming the basic factors as gas,electrical comp. … are OK? In other words: Where to start searching? I’ll have som OBD II-codes available in a few days, but would not be surprised if the security area is not very well covered. Best regards   Niels Nielsen.

Response:

2000 Buick Century

Question:

Anyone else having trouble with their Buicks?

Response:

>Anyone else having trouble with their Buicks?

I’ve not heard of any problems..   You probably just got a fluky one, that’s all..  Defects that aren’t immediately detectable happen to every brand.. Either way, it’s still under warranty, so it shouldn’t cost you anything.. — Mark – Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Chevy Astro / GMC Safari Message Board! Click Below! http://pub37.ezboard.com/bchevyastroandgmcsafari

Response:

 I have a Buick Century 2000 50,010 miles on it the bushing in the lower afarm left side came out any one have this proble  Ron

Response:

Try a new bushing in the lower afarm.  That should cure your proble   ;0 mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >  I have a Buick Century 2000 50,010 miles on it the bushing in the lower > afarm left side came out any one have this proble  Ron

Response:

> I have a Buick Century 2000 50,010 miles on it the bushing in the lower > afarm left side came out any one have this proble  Ron

    You  mean your  drivers  side lower (no upper on that car) A-Arm/Frame, lost one of the two bushings?     Has the car been wrecked, or hit a curb real hard with the  drivers side front wheel? Charles

Response:

How can a bushing come out when its held in by a 5" long bolt?? Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~289,164 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

1998 gmc safari van

Question:

> I need a list of all codes for a 1998 gmc safari van

That would be a pretty big list. What do you need the codes for? Determining what options it came with? Emissions controls? ODB-II codes?

Response:

I need ODB-II codes

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I need a list of all codes for a 1998 gmc safari van > That would be a pretty big list. What do you need the codes for? Determining > what options it came with? Emissions controls? ODB-II codes?

Response:

> I need ODB-II codes

http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/

Response:

what are the engine codes for a 1998 gmc safari van.also are there other codes for transmission, emmisions or any other codes for this van

Response:

> what are the engine codes for a 1998 gmc safari van.also are there other > codes for transmission, emmisions or any other codes for this van

Which codes? VIN RPO Diagnostic ??

Response:

I need a list of all codes for a 1998 gmc safari van

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> what are the engine codes for a 1998 gmc safari van.also are there other > codes for transmission, emmisions or any other codes for this van > Which codes? > VIN > RPO > Diagnostic > ??

Response:

4.3L 91 GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Van automatic transmision problem

Question:

Having almost a year ago replaced a 4L60E in my 97 Astro that listed at Chevrolet for about $ 1900 uninstalled. My cost through a friend that has a body shop was about $1320.00 for a GM Goodwrench 4L60E unit. Since I have gave you the good news. I know you are now on the edge of your seat waiting for an answer to your question. Answer:  Simply those transmissions are weak. Because of the problem you cited take the vehicle back 1.  selling dealer get it fixed 2.  get selling dealer refund you your money 3.  exchange for another vehicle. snip . — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Charge, I still think there must be another reason. It drives fine but engages hard only. I thought that it might be a vacuum leak. I know a car engages hard just because of it. Do you have any other idea. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Having almost a year ago replaced a 4L60E in my 97 Astro that listed at > Chevrolet for about $ 1900 uninstalled. > My cost through a friend that has a body shop was about $1320.00 for a GM > Goodwrench 4L60E unit. > Since I have gave you the good news. > I know you are now on the edge of your seat waiting for an answer to your > question. > Answer:  Simply those transmissions are weak. > Because of the problem you cited take the vehicle back > 1.  selling dealer get it fixed > 2.  get selling dealer refund you your money > 3.  exchange for another vehicle. > snip > . > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

plain and simple get the idle speed where it belongs. 1500 rpm  is way out of line. Look for a defective idle air solenoid or a vacuum leak – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi guys, I just bought a GMC safari wan with 4.3 L engine and 4 speed >(with OD) transmision. >My problem is it is my first 4.3L and when i put it in Drive, it >engages very hard: it looks like car is reving at 1500 rpm and i >change the shifter from neutrol to Drive. It is smoother when i shift >it to reverse. >What might be the problem? >in addition, it is a little bit late but does this trucks have any >known problems.

Response:

Hi guys, I just bought a GMC safari wan with 4.3 L engine and 4 speed (with OD) transmision. My problem is it is my first 4.3L and when i put it in Drive, it engages very hard: it looks like car is reving at 1500 rpm and i change the shifter from neutrol to Drive. It is smoother when i shift it to reverse. What might be the problem? in addition, it is a little bit late but does this trucks have any known problems.

Response:

Chevy Astro/GMC Safari

Question:

I have a 1987 GMC Safari (Astro) with a 4.3L v6 and TBI. This van has about 193K/miles on it and since i’ve had it (about 2-1/2 yrs) it’s had a hesitation.  Well, now it just stalls out and i’m trying to find out why it just doesn’t keep going at all and stalls when "a load" is put on it (i.e. putting it in DRIVE or REVERSE). We’ve taken off the TBI to possibly clean it, but the thought may be that it’s in the Injectors. How long should these last, or do they just need a good cleaning too?  I dont want to dump $350 into a pair of injectors when that may not fix it. Lemme know…  - Ray –

Response:

Have you checked your EGR valve for operation? If it’s the original one I bet that’s your problem. On the other hand it’s real easy to see if your TBI’s injectors are working well, just take off the air cover and look. Should be a nice clean even spray, no drips drops or plops. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1987 GMC Safari (Astro) with a 4.3L v6 and TBI. > This van has about 193K/miles on it and since i’ve had it (about 2-1/2 > yrs) it’s had a hesitation.  Well, now it just stalls out and i’m trying > to find out why it just doesn’t keep going at all and stalls when "a load" > is put on it (i.e. putting it in DRIVE or REVERSE). > We’ve taken off the TBI to possibly clean it, but the thought may be that > it’s in the Injectors. > How long should these last, or do they just need a good cleaning too?  I > dont want to dump $350 into a pair of injectors when that may not fix it. > Lemme know… >  - Ray –

Response:

When Boosting another Vehicle is this correct.

Question:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

I am lead to believe that the best way to boost a vehicle is for the vehicle with the good battery to be turned off with the headlights on. The headlights add a load to the system which will absorb the sag in voltage of the battery and protect the computer systems from a voltage spike or sag. It is easy to blow a computer board with a voltage spike so this is how I have always done it and it works fine. Running the engine on the good vehicle while boosting is exposing its systems to unnecessary risk. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am lead to believe that the best way to boost a vehicle is for the vehicle > with the good battery to be turned off with the headlights on. The > headlights add a load to the system which will absorb the sag in voltage of > the battery and protect the computer systems from a voltage spike or sag. > It is easy to blow a computer board with a voltage spike so this is how I > have always done it and it works fine. Running the engine on the good > vehicle while boosting is exposing its systems to unnecessary risk. > Steve > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Yes, it is good to leave the headlights on – but you should be connecting the negative of the dead-batt car to chassis (ground it) and not to he Neg output – you are putting it parallel to the good batt and a good chance that you MAY kill that chip. Hooking ip (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) is wrong and bad.

Response:

When jump starting another vehicle you should shut the running engine off before connecting anything.  Then connect both positive ends to the positive terminals of the batteries.  Then connect the negative leads to a steel bracket on the engine of both vehicles, usually there are lifting brackets or an engine locating strut bracket.  Note that I said; engine locating strut "BRACKET", not the strut itself as the strut is mounted in rubber. When both ends are connected, start the running car and make sure you have good connections.  You should be able to hear the alternator load up trying to charge the dead battery.  Let the battery charge for a bit, as long as possible before trying to start the other car.  If you turn the lights on it will just put more load on the already maxed out alternator.  After the car is started, disconnect the negative lead on one of the vehicles first, then the negative on the other vehicle, then both positive.  In that order of disconnect, you will run less risk of causing an arc, which could damage either vehicle.  Never cause an arc anywhere near one of the batteries, they can explode.  This has worked well for me for years and never caused any damage to either vehicle. Good luck

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am lead to believe that the best way to boost a vehicle is for the > vehicle > with the good battery to be turned off with the headlights on. The > headlights add a load to the system which will absorb the sag in voltage > of > the battery and protect the computer systems from a voltage spike or sag. > It is easy to blow a computer board with a voltage spike so this is how I > have always done it and it works fine. Running the engine on the good > vehicle while boosting is exposing its systems to unnecessary risk. > Steve > > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > > damage the chip. > > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > > started and we stopped. > > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > > positive > > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > > arc > > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > > never > > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > > Your replies appreciated > > Denny > Yes, it is good to leave the headlights on – but you should be connecting > the negative of the dead-batt car to chassis (ground it) and not to he Neg > output – you are putting it parallel to the good batt and a good chance that > you MAY kill that chip. Hooking ip (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) is wrong and > bad.

because I haven’t done that a hundred times on newer vehicles… didn’t damage any of them.

Response:

"Denny B" wrote > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer.

There are enough stupid people out there that aren’t careful how they hook up the leads and end up frying some valuable components.  This is what the manufacturers are trying to prevent. There is nothing wrong with just hooking up booster cables to the two batteries (correctly) even with the engine of the donor car running.  I’ve been working on cars for 23 years, and have yet to have had any problems by boosting this way.  The recommendation to put the negative cable away from the actual battery post is simply a precaution in case the battery is leaking acid and the spark ignites the battery and blows it up.  If at all possible it’s better to install the negative booster cable to a ground on the engine, but I’ve done it both ways. Just the other day, I was talking to one of the service advisors about a customer who had just towed in their fairly new Blazer.  Seems the wife and daughter had attempted to boost the vehicle, got the positive and negative crossed….and the vehicle almost went up in smoke.  Who knows what they blew on that vehicle…..will be interesting to find out how many components they fried.  But that’s the main concern, crossing positive and negative.  Boosting new cars is done all the time.  I’m not dragging  a car in the shop if I can just roll a booster pack out to it. Ian

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I am lead to believe that the best way to boost a vehicle is for the > vehicle > > with the good battery to be turned off with the headlights on. The > > headlights add a load to the system which will absorb the sag in voltage > of > > the battery and protect the computer systems from a voltage spike or > sag. > > It is easy to blow a computer board with a voltage spike so this is how > I > > have always done it and it works fine. Running the engine on the good > > vehicle while boosting is exposing its systems to unnecessary risk. > > Steve > > > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > > > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > > > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > > > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > > > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > > > damage the chip. > > > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > > > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > > > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > > > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > > > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > > > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > > > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > > > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > > > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > > > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > > > started and we stopped. > > > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > > > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > > > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > > > positive > > > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > > > arc > > > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > > > never > > > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > > >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > > > Your replies appreciated > > > Denny > Yes, it is good to leave the headlights on – but you should be connecting > the negative of the dead-batt car to chassis (ground it) and not to he Neg > output – you are putting it parallel to the good batt and a good chance > that > you MAY kill that chip. Hooking ip (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) is wrong and > bad. > because I haven’t done that a hundred times on newer vehicles… didn’t > damage any of them.

Well, if you put them + to + and – to – and always use your own car to do the jump, your batt is gonna need replace – gonna run low on juice lol. Well, just make sure you have a good set of cables and try to match up the batt sizes :) I once saw some guy using a Honda Civi to jump start a Ford Windstar – the Winstar sucked the juices out of the Civi cause they decide to leave the cables on to "charge" the Windstar before cranking it. I drive a GMC Safari, so I ended up jumping the two of them LOL — take a quick read in your car’s owner manual, they will show you how to properly jump start your car. *note. on some newer car’s like the Chevy Venture, they put the "Negative" terminal in a super uneasy spot to reach on purpose so that owner’s wont beable to help jump start other cars unless they REALLY know what they are doing – cause if not, they might damage something. Hence why again, the (-) of the bad car should go to a metal connection on the car, not the (-) – you end up putting the two batts in parallel, rather than series. Here is a quick goggle – http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm – give it a read

Response:

> Hence why again, the (-) of the bad car should go to a metal connection on > the car, not the (-) – you end up putting the two batts in parallel, rather > than series. > Here is a quick goggle – http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm – give > it a read

The negative side of the battery is connected to car ground. It does not make any difference if the (-) cable is put on the battery or part of the car.  It is the same thing. The reason it is not wise to attach the cable directly to the battery is because there may hydrogen gas there.  It may explode. You want the batteries parallel.  It would be difficult and dangerous to put them in series.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hence why again, the (-) of the bad car should go to a metal connection on > the car, not the (-) – you end up putting the two batts in parallel, rather > than series. > Here is a quick goggle – http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm – give > it a read > The negative side of the battery is connected to car ground. > It does not make any difference if the (-) cable is put on the battery > or part of the car.  It is the same thing. > The reason it is not wise to attach the cable directly to the battery > is because there may hydrogen gas there.  It may explode. > You want the batteries parallel.  It would be difficult and dangerous > to put them in series.

I had to jump start my Grand Prix and I was using a Silverado to give me the boost. Had the negative cable hooked up to the battery (Gramps did it) and my car wouldn’t start. Moved the negative cable to an unpainted part of my chassis, turned the key and it churned right up.

Response:

@hotmail.com says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hence why again, the (-) of the bad car should go to a metal connection > on > > the car, not the (-) – you end up putting the two batts in parallel, > rather > > than series. > > Here is a quick goggle – http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm – > give > > it a read > The negative side of the battery is connected to car ground. > It does not make any difference if the (-) cable is put on the battery > or part of the car.  It is the same thing. > The reason it is not wise to attach the cable directly to the battery > is because there may hydrogen gas there.  It may explode. > You want the batteries parallel.  It would be difficult and dangerous > to put them in series. > I had to jump start my Grand Prix and I was using a Silverado to give me the > boost. Had the negative cable hooked up to the battery (Gramps did it) and > my car wouldn’t start. Moved the negative cable to an unpainted part of my > chassis, turned the key and it churned right up.

Sounds like it either wasnt making contact at the bat post or it had a bad ground wire.  I guess if this thread tought me anything it is that Nissan doesnt want their cars jumped and I’ll gladly oblidge them in that endeavor. ;-)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hence why again, the (-) of the bad car should go to a metal connection > on > > the car, not the (-) – you end up putting the two batts in parallel, > rather > > than series. > > Here is a quick goggle – http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm – > give > > it a read > The negative side of the battery is connected to car ground. > It does not make any difference if the (-) cable is put on the battery > or part of the car.  It is the same thing. > The reason it is not wise to attach the cable directly to the battery > is because there may hydrogen gas there.  It may explode. > You want the batteries parallel.  It would be difficult and dangerous > to put them in series. > I had to jump start my Grand Prix and I was using a Silverado to give me the > boost. Had the negative cable hooked up to the battery (Gramps did it) and > my car wouldn’t start. Moved the negative cable to an unpainted part of my > chassis, turned the key and it churned right up.

Better ohm/volt out the cable.  It is not grounded properly. It will lead to early alternator death along with a host of other electrical problems.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hence why again, the (-) of the bad car should go to a metal connection on > the car, not the (-) – you end up putting the two batts in parallel, rather > than series. > Here is a quick goggle – http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm – give > it a read > The negative side of the battery is connected to car ground. > It does not make any difference if the (-) cable is put on the battery > or part of the car.  It is the same thing. > The reason it is not wise to attach the cable directly to the battery > is because there may hydrogen gas there.  It may explode. > You want the batteries parallel.  It would be difficult and dangerous > to put them in series.

Oops, my bad – you are right, the other way around – hah hah. :P Silly me, series means it will be a total of 24V when they are "good" LOL – not good for the rest of the electronics! The important thing, just get it right – and yes, not to wise to hook up to neg batt cause it may explode, I think that link give a description of that.

Response:

>  I guess if this thread taught me anything it is that Nissan doesnt want > their cars jumped and I’ll gladly oblidge them in that endeavor. ;-)

LOL! Me too. GW

Response:

Better ohm/volt out the cable.  It is not grounded properly. It will lead to early alternator death along with a host of other electrical problems. I’ll check into the cable thing when it warms up a little bit. It happened curious, but could a loose connection at the alternator have done that?

Response:

Sounds like it either wasnt making contact at the bat post or it had a bad ground wire. I’m probably going to check the wire when it gets a little bit warmer out (gotta love Milwaukee weather…one day its 60 the next it’s 15). But then it may also have not been making contact. All I can remember is that it was freaking cold out and my alternator plug wasn’t pushed into the alternator all the way.

Response:

>"Denny B" wrote >There are enough stupid people out there that aren’t

And every one of them is behind the wheel  here in Southern Calif when it’s raining. Except for me. I’m stupid, just not that stupid. >their fairly new Blazer.  Seems the wife and daughter >had attempted to boost the vehicle, got the positive >and negative crossed….and the vehicle almost went >up in smoke.  Who knows what they blew on that >vehicle…..will be interesting to find out how many >components they fried.  

My prediction is: The sacrificial devices now installed by the factory are arrayed like a regiment of pikemen, lancers and bowmen. I don’t forsee any factory component other than what was supposed to open up at the reversal will be affected.( Aftermarket things that they hang on and hook directly to the battery with a long wire run can sometimes fizzle.) That’s not how I would expect the factory to do things, as I’d expect them to leave one component supply unprotected just to sell a part to a dummy. Let me know if I was right or just passing gas. >crossing positive and negative.  Boosting new cars >is done all the time.  I’m not dragging  a car in the >shop if I can just roll a booster pack out to it.

I concur. I think what the folks are trying to prevent here is damage due to voltage spiking during the establishment of the connection. But capacitors can be a sponge for those, especially big ones, and a car battery is almost a perfect capacitor, and a huge one at that. The component that’s a bugger for killer spike generating is the cycling AC compressor clutch, and the AC compressor is included even in the defrost selection, so it’s a well used component. The various points of the electrical system are already hardened for that stuff, with the first device being the diode across the compressor clutch supply and earth at the connector. Many of the sealed electronic components are internally protected, just in case some yahoo scratches his head wondering who the hell put a resistor on this here icebox?  (true event) Jack – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Ian

Response:

> Better ohm/volt out the cable.  It is not grounded properly. > It will lead to early alternator death along with a host of > other electrical problems. > I’ll check into the cable thing when it warms up a little bit. It happened > curious, but could a loose connection at the alternator have done that?

A loose connection at the alt should not prevent jump starting with cables at the battery posts but it could shorten alt life due to resistance and transients.

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

When jump starting, allow the discharged battery in the stranded car sit and accept the boost charge for at least 10 to 15 minutes to minimize damage from voltage spike and/or current surge.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much > everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the > shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and > alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can > cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from > this. > I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

— Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. >The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan >and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles >Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle >has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can >damage the chip. >We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off >I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery >negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. >Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both >vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. >Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I >tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after >5 minutes of trying stopped. >I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb >and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle >started and we stopped. >What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this >claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting >themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the >positive >of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an >arc >it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will >never >give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather > Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. >Your replies appreciated >Denny

Well, what they’re implying is that there is an entire class of people out there who know nothing about how to jump-start a car, doing incredibly stupid things like connecting the positive poles first, grounding the negatives together, and so on and so  forth.   Oh wait..  that’s what you did…    Oh well…  my statement stands… The proper method for jumpstarting a car is to make sure that the cars are close enough to connect the battery cables, but not touching (more important with cars with metallic/chrome bumpers but still good practice with those having rubberized/composite bumpers).  Ensure the engines of both cars are switched off.  Ensure that all electrical devices (stereos, lights, etc.) on the cars are turned off.  Connect postive to positive, connecting the cables (usually the red clamps) to the car with the good battery, then the  car with the discharged battery.  Then, connect one end of the cable with the black clamp to the negative post of the good battery, and ground the other end of the clamp to a good electrical ground on the car with the dead battery. Usually a bracket, or other metallic part of the car that is grounded. It is NOT recommended that you connect to the negative post of the discharged battery, as this can produce a spark which, in the presence of hydrogen gas, is considered to be a "bad" thing.  Start the car with the good battery, allow it to idle high (about 1500 rpm or so) and attempt to start the car with the dead battery.  If the car will not start, allow the battery to receive charge for 20 minutes, and then retry.  Continue until the car has received enough charge to start.  When disconnecting the cables, remove them in the reverse order of connection, making sure not to allow any short/cross circuiting of clamps. Cross connecting of cables can result in electrical failure of wiring and components of either car, including but not limited to the reverse polarity protection diodes in the alternators.  It can also result in sparks which can result in explosion and/or fire.  It is recommended that extreme care be exercised when jump-starting a car. As with any procedure involving large mechanical devices (and automobiles certainly qualify) or electrical connections, if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t even attempt to do it yourself, call someone who knows what they’re doing.  If you don’t, you could very well lose a limb, and organ, or your life. Raymond Sirois SysOp: The Lost Chord BBS 607-733-5745 telnet://thelostchord.dns2go.com:6000

Response:

The onboard computer for most new cars nowadays runs pretty much everything; the fuel injection, the brakes, the transmission, the shocks, etc. When a big source of current like a battery and alternator from another vehicle is hooked into the system, it can cause a surge, and unfortunately, computers are prone to damage from this. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I thought the procedure was Positive of good battery to positive of dead battery Negative of good battery to metal on engine of dead battery. Start engine of  car w/ good battery. Start engine of dead battery car.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. > The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan > and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles > Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle > has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can > damage the chip. > We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off > I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery > negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. > Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both > vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. > Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I > tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after > 5 minutes of trying stopped. > I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb > and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle > started and we stopped. > What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this > claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting > themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the > positive > of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an > arc > it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will > never > give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather >  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. > Your replies appreciated > Denny

Response:

I had problems starting my car in minus 26 degree weather. The person I asked to give me a boost has a year 2002 Nissan and he stated that his booklet states Not to boost other vehicles Nor other vehicles give him a boost. He stated that his vehicle has a chip that costs thousands of dollars and boosting can damage the chip. We went ahead any way, his engine was off and my engine was off I connected the jumper cable negative (black) to his battery negative, then the black jumper cable to my battery negative. Then I connected the red cable to the battery positives of both vehicles. Made sure the connections were solid. Then the Nissan started its engine, it continued to run and then I tried to start my engine. I could not start my engine and after 5 minutes of trying stopped. I went and purchased some fluid to spray down the throat of my carb and the Nissan again assisted me. I still could not get my vehicle started and we stopped. What interests me there was no damage to the Nissan and is this claim about not boosting other vehicles the manufacturer protecting themselves as usual. Or do they actually mean if you connect the positive of one battery to the negative battery of the other or if you cause an arc it will damage the chip (ic). Are they implying a Nissan battery will never give you trouble and you will Never need a boost in ninus 30 weather  Or do you have to have your vehicle towed to a Nissan dealer. Your replies appreciated Denny

Response:

Installing remote starter GMC Safari AWD

Question:

Why can’t you use the run and tap connectors, the one that wraps around the existing wire, and the additional wire slides in the hole on the other side, and you squeeze the blade down which pierces the insulation.  Works for me… Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Been there done that thanks anyway. I can get Bosch relays local for > cheaper. I am looking for a harness so as to not have to cut the wires > at the steering colum on the van. > www.bought4less.com  has BOSCH Relays included in the MAS START 2001 > Remote Start / keyless entry > : I will be installing a remote starter kit in My 94 safari AWD with the W > : engine. > : I have seen on the net some T harness’s for newer models but nothing for > : a 94 Safari. > : Does anyone know where I can find a T harness for the ignition plug? > : Also looking for any other tips Ie the best place to tap into the tack > : etc. > : > : While I am at it I will offer a tip. > : I installed a cheap remote starter in a 89 bonneville. Worked fine for > : two years. > : I did not install relays for the park lights because I did not need one > : (small load) > : Then I bought a trailer with more lights and not thinking about the > : added load I hooked up the trailer. > : Well one morning while sitting watching TV the car starter engages the > : engine starts with the starter still engaged. In a panic I started > : ripping out wires ten minutes went by before I grabbed a wire cutter and > : in panic cut the battery wire. The starter still works fine two years > : later. (lucky) > : > : Took me two days too repair the wires that I ripped out and a month for > : the skin to grow back on my hands. > : > : NEVER EVER I REPEAT NEVER install an after market starter kit without a > : kill switch or fuse and always use relays on all outputs regardless. > : > : What had happened is the extra load caused a small ten cent transistor > : to short in the remote brain box.

Response:

I might as well get right up in there with a soldering gun and do it right. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Why can’t you use the run and tap connectors, the one that wraps around the > existing wire, and the additional wire slides in the hole on the other side, > and you squeeze the blade down which pierces the insulation. >  Works for me… > Steve > Been there done that thanks anyway. I can get Bosch relays local for > cheaper. I am looking for a harness so as to not have to cut the wires > at the steering colum on the van. > > www.bought4less.com  has BOSCH Relays included in the MAS START 2001 > > Remote Start / keyless entry > > : I will be installing a remote starter kit in My 94 safari AWD with the > W > > : engine. > > : I have seen on the net some T harness’s for newer models but nothing > for > > : a 94 Safari. > > : Does anyone know where I can find a T harness for the ignition plug? > > : Also looking for any other tips Ie the best place to tap into the tack > > : etc. > > : > > : While I am at it I will offer a tip. > > : I installed a cheap remote starter in a 89 bonneville. Worked fine for > > : two years. > > : I did not install relays for the park lights because I did not need > one > > : (small load) > > : Then I bought a trailer with more lights and not thinking about the > > : added load I hooked up the trailer. > > : Well one morning while sitting watching TV the car starter engages the > > : engine starts with the starter still engaged. In a panic I started > > : ripping out wires ten minutes went by before I grabbed a wire cutter > and > > : in panic cut the battery wire. The starter still works fine two years > > : later. (lucky) > > : > > : Took me two days too repair the wires that I ripped out and a month > for > > : the skin to grow back on my hands. > > : > > : NEVER EVER I REPEAT NEVER install an after market starter kit without > a > > : kill switch or fuse and always use relays on all outputs regardless. > > : > > : What had happened is the extra load caused a small ten cent transistor > > : to short in the remote brain box.

Response:

I will be installing a remote starter kit in My 94 safari AWD with the W engine. I have seen on the net some T harness’s for newer models but nothing for a 94 Safari. Does anyone know where I can find a T harness for the ignition plug? Also looking for any other tips Ie the best place to tap into the tack etc. While I am at it I will offer a tip. I installed a cheap remote starter in a 89 bonneville. Worked fine for two years. I did not install relays for the park lights because I did not need one (small load) Then I bought a trailer with more lights and not thinking about the added load I hooked up the trailer. Well one morning while sitting watching TV the car starter engages the engine starts with the starter still engaged. In a panic I started ripping out wires ten minutes went by before I grabbed a wire cutter and in panic cut the battery wire. The starter still works fine two years later. (lucky) Took me two days too repair the wires that I ripped out and a month for the skin to grow back on my hands. NEVER EVER I REPEAT NEVER install an after market starter kit without a kill switch or fuse and always use relays on all outputs regardless. What had happened is the extra load caused a small ten cent transistor to short in the remote brain box.

Response:

www.bought4less.com  has BOSCH Relays included in the MAS START 2001 Remote Start / keyless entry

: I will be installing a remote starter kit in My 94 safari AWD with the W : engine. : I have seen on the net some T harness’s for newer models but nothing for : a 94 Safari. : Does anyone know where I can find a T harness for the ignition plug? : Also looking for any other tips Ie the best place to tap into the tack : etc. : : While I am at it I will offer a tip. : I installed a cheap remote starter in a 89 bonneville. Worked fine for : two years. : I did not install relays for the park lights because I did not need one : (small load) : Then I bought a trailer with more lights and not thinking about the : added load I hooked up the trailer. : Well one morning while sitting watching TV the car starter engages the : engine starts with the starter still engaged. In a panic I started : ripping out wires ten minutes went by before I grabbed a wire cutter and : in panic cut the battery wire. The starter still works fine two years : later. (lucky) : : Took me two days too repair the wires that I ripped out and a month for : the skin to grow back on my hands. : : NEVER EVER I REPEAT NEVER install an after market starter kit without a : kill switch or fuse and always use relays on all outputs regardless. : : What had happened is the extra load caused a small ten cent transistor : to short in the remote brain box.

Response:

Been there done that thanks anyway. I can get Bosch relays local for cheaper. I am looking for a harness so as to not have to cut the wires at the steering colum on the van. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > www.bought4less.com  has BOSCH Relays included in the MAS START 2001 > Remote Start / keyless entry > : I will be installing a remote starter kit in My 94 safari AWD with the W > : engine. > : I have seen on the net some T harness’s for newer models but nothing for > : a 94 Safari. > : Does anyone know where I can find a T harness for the ignition plug? > : Also looking for any other tips Ie the best place to tap into the tack > : etc. > : > : While I am at it I will offer a tip. > : I installed a cheap remote starter in a 89 bonneville. Worked fine for > : two years. > : I did not install relays for the park lights because I did not need one > : (small load) > : Then I bought a trailer with more lights and not thinking about the > : added load I hooked up the trailer. > : Well one morning while sitting watching TV the car starter engages the > : engine starts with the starter still engaged. In a panic I started > : ripping out wires ten minutes went by before I grabbed a wire cutter and > : in panic cut the battery wire. The starter still works fine two years > : later. (lucky) > : > : Took me two days too repair the wires that I ripped out and a month for > : the skin to grow back on my hands. > : > : NEVER EVER I REPEAT NEVER install an after market starter kit without a > : kill switch or fuse and always use relays on all outputs regardless. > : > : What had happened is the extra load caused a small ten cent transistor > : to short in the remote brain box.

Response: