Today's Articles

Truck parts for sale

Question:

parts you mention. Thanks, Snowman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve had several Chevys and I’ve loved them but I’ve gotten out of the need > for trucks so I’m selling mine.  One’s a ‘93 with 430,000 miles on er, > 2500HD 6.5 turbo ex cab 2 wheel drive with front end damage but she runs > good.  Any reasonable offer will be considered.  Another is a parts truck, a > ‘93 GMC all exactly the same as the first, but it’s a 4×4 and has 160,000 > miles.  It’s a parts truck because the engine is blown, also a diesel.  It > has all good glass, and the cab, interior and doors are good.  The whole > front clip, bed, and tailgate are damaged.  All the stuff underneath is fine > including the 4L80E automatic.  I will sell one part at a time, or the whole > truck.  Another is an ‘83 Blazer heavy half (6 lug 16" wheels) with no > engine at all and a 700R4 that only has 1st and 3rd gears but all the rest > of the 4×4 drive train is good.  The wheels are custom alloys and have brand > new tires on them.  One set of 8 lug wheels on the other truck is also > custom alloy.  All three vehicles have heavy duty slide-in receivers, and > one ‘93 has a chrome brush guard and a very nice Kenwood stereo cd changer > with a JBL amp and MTX speakers.  Make an offer on anything you want. > All the best to everyone, > Alden

Response:

I’ve had several Chevys and I’ve loved them but I’ve gotten out of the need for trucks so I’m selling mine.  One’s a ‘93 with 430,000 miles on er, 2500HD 6.5 turbo ex cab 2 wheel drive with front end damage but she runs good.  Any reasonable offer will be considered.  Another is a parts truck, a ‘93 GMC all exactly the same as the first, but it’s a 4×4 and has 160,000 miles.  It’s a parts truck because the engine is blown, also a diesel.  It has all good glass, and the cab, interior and doors are good.  The whole front clip, bed, and tailgate are damaged.  All the stuff underneath is fine including the 4L80E automatic.  I will sell one part at a time, or the whole truck.  Another is an ‘83 Blazer heavy half (6 lug 16" wheels) with no engine at all and a 700R4 that only has 1st and 3rd gears but all the rest of the 4×4 drive train is good.  The wheels are custom alloys and have brand new tires on them.  One set of 8 lug wheels on the other truck is also custom alloy.  All three vehicles have heavy duty slide-in receivers, and one ‘93 has a chrome brush guard and a very nice Kenwood stereo cd changer with a JBL amp and MTX speakers.  Make an offer on anything you want. All the best to everyone, Alden

Response:

Any word on 2004 GMC Serria pickup changes ??

Question:

I don’t know of a newsgroup for GMC pickups, so I’ll ask here… Any word on 2004 GMC Serria pickup changes ?? Thanks for any information you can provide.. -x-   100 Proof News – http://www.100ProofNews.com -x-   3,500+ Binary NewsGroups, and over 90,000 other groups -x-   Access to over 700 Gigs/Day – $8.95/Month -x-   UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD

Response:

According to dealer, only change to the 2004’s is body cosmetics, and a few minor electronics updates.  Other than that, same truck as 1999-2003.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t know of a newsgroup for GMC pickups, so I’ll ask here… > Any word on 2004 GMC Serria pickup changes ?? > Thanks for any information you can provide.. > -x-   100 Proof News – http://www.100ProofNews.com > -x-   3,500+ Binary NewsGroups, and over 90,000 other groups > -x-   Access to over 700 Gigs/Day – $8.95/Month > -x-   UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD

Response:

95 Blazer

Question:

Jeg har en 95 mod Chevrolet Blazer jeg vil selge.

Response:

>Jeg har en 95 mod Chevrolet Blazer jeg vil selge.

You’re selling your 95 Blazer?  Sorry, I don’t understand foreign languages too well…

Response:

Nou von voug vil sleg, oui doun nou vat jou meen H

Response:

Huh?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Nou von voug vil sleg, oui doun nou vat jou meen > H

Response:

>Nou von voug vil sleg, oui doun nou vat jou meen

Jibberish. —      Dennis Smith                                  -1971 Trans Am – 455 H.O. – TH400 auto – Cameo white/blue stripe-       < http://ps2page.tripod.com/my71ta/tapage.html >        -1973 Trans Am – 455 – TH400 auto – Buccaneer red-      -1984 Trans Am – 5.0 L – TH700R4 auto – Royal blue/silver aero-

Response:

Exactly! It could happen either in cold start or in hot temperature. The thing bothers me most is that when I stop by 7-11 to buy a cop of cold drink in the hot weather and come back to start my car again. I asked my dealer several times for this problem, they could not find anything at all. Well, if you find any solution, please let me know. Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The ‘roar’ which I hear can occur either cold,  or after we’ve reached > 100degrees on the dial.  I say design flaw!  Its got something to do with the > grease in the fan clutch…it has to warm up for 30 seconds before it will > release the fan when just starting up.  Somestime I wait minutes for it to quiet > down.  Even when hot its really annoying because you will be a a red light, step > on the gas and you will have no power because its all taken up moving the > fan…  Maybe I should sneak in an electric fan or two. > I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy which is exactly the same as chevy Blazer. Two > complaints exactly the same as Taylor: > 1. The height of brake pedal is not adequate. It is also too heavy and a bit > sloppy when you apply it. > 2. Brake pad wears quickly. In my case, about every 15000 miles. When I > drove my previous car, a Honda, I changed brake pad every 40,000 miles (same > driver, as a comparison). > I had also minor problems in interior lights and passenger side seat once. > Sometimes, when I start engine at high temperature, engine makes some kind > of groaning noise. However, it comes back to normal quickly. > No other significant problem. I just changed my tires (~60,000 miles) and it > may go for another 5 years. > Mike Yang > > About 1 1/3 years back I bought a used 1995 Chevy Blazer LT, loaded, with > > 88,000km (55,000 miles) on it.  I fell in love with it.  My vehicle before > was > > my beautiful 1968 Pontiac Parisenne, so it was a change. > > Likes > >     Power everything > >     4×4 on the fly > >     It is a V6 so I get some power without loosing a LOT > >     Some nice body and engine mods can be applied (I sugguest moving up to > a K&N > > filter or a K&N FIPK like I’m doing) > >     Pretty good for -30C in the middle of winter…but not invincible as I > bent > > my rib on a curb as I slid into it.  So long for 4×4 and ABS… > > Dislikes > >     ABS (just dont like them, and I have to take it in for the second > factory > > recall during this 1.3 years I’ve had it) > >     The brake pedal is too close.  It should be inline with the gas pedal > so I > > don’t have to do any EXTRA work when applying the brakes) > >     Bought it from the dealer and I wore down the brakes within 6 months. > We > > estimated that I would go through brakes once/year.  Thats $400CAN/year on > > brakes alone. (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) > >     Then again, it IS only a V6. > >     Engine is a little cramp…but I suppose that is true of most newer > > vehicles. > >     The vehicle needs to be an inch or two wider. > >     Both O2 sensor replacements through the dealer could set you back > $300CAN > > (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) > >     A/C went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it. ($600 > worth) > >     Fuel pump went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it ($500 > worth) > >     Recently lost power door locks and seats (electrical short – tracking > it > > down) > > The truck itself has been rather trust worthy.  The only thing that was a > ‘break > > down’ was the fuel pump…and the brakes were kinda critical.  It made the > trip > > of 3000km (2000miles) from Canada to the US though without problems. > > > We are looking at a 95 blazer. It has high miles but a low price. Are > they a > > > reliable vehicle? Anyone have concerns or good experience with them?

Response:

Actually, for clearity, it was the dealer which I bought the vehicle from that was going to charge me $400.  I knew this guy who owed be a bit so he flipped the bill at Minute Muffler for me.  I cannot do ‘automotive repairs’ myself due the the rental agreement I signed :(  I recently moved down to the US East Coast and they all want everything esthitically pleasing where I am…which means no grease monkeys in the front yard doing their own repairs…kinda sucks :( – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > $400.00 for brakes?????? that’s insane. you can save yourself a lot of money by > doing them yourself. they are not that hard. it’ll only cost you like $60.00 for the

Response:

The ‘roar’ which I hear can occur either cold,  or after we’ve reached 100degrees on the dial.  I say design flaw!  Its got something to do with the grease in the fan clutch…it has to warm up for 30 seconds before it will release the fan when just starting up.  Somestime I wait minutes for it to quiet down.  Even when hot its really annoying because you will be a a red light, step on the gas and you will have no power because its all taken up moving the fan…  Maybe I should sneak in an electric fan or two. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy which is exactly the same as chevy Blazer. Two > complaints exactly the same as Taylor: > 1. The height of brake pedal is not adequate. It is also too heavy and a bit > sloppy when you apply it. > 2. Brake pad wears quickly. In my case, about every 15000 miles. When I > drove my previous car, a Honda, I changed brake pad every 40,000 miles (same > driver, as a comparison). > I had also minor problems in interior lights and passenger side seat once. > Sometimes, when I start engine at high temperature, engine makes some kind > of groaning noise. However, it comes back to normal quickly. > No other significant problem. I just changed my tires (~60,000 miles) and it > may go for another 5 years. > Mike Yang > About 1 1/3 years back I bought a used 1995 Chevy Blazer LT, loaded, with > 88,000km (55,000 miles) on it.  I fell in love with it.  My vehicle before > was > my beautiful 1968 Pontiac Parisenne, so it was a change. > Likes >     Power everything >     4×4 on the fly >     It is a V6 so I get some power without loosing a LOT >     Some nice body and engine mods can be applied (I sugguest moving up to > a K&N > filter or a K&N FIPK like I’m doing) >     Pretty good for -30C in the middle of winter…but not invincible as I > bent > my rib on a curb as I slid into it.  So long for 4×4 and ABS… > Dislikes >     ABS (just dont like them, and I have to take it in for the second > factory > recall during this 1.3 years I’ve had it) >     The brake pedal is too close.  It should be inline with the gas pedal > so I > don’t have to do any EXTRA work when applying the brakes) >     Bought it from the dealer and I wore down the brakes within 6 months. > We > estimated that I would go through brakes once/year.  Thats $400CAN/year on > brakes alone. (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) >     Then again, it IS only a V6. >     Engine is a little cramp…but I suppose that is true of most newer > vehicles. >     The vehicle needs to be an inch or two wider. >     Both O2 sensor replacements through the dealer could set you back > $300CAN > (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) >     A/C went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it. ($600 > worth) >     Fuel pump went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it ($500 > worth) >     Recently lost power door locks and seats (electrical short – tracking > it > down) > The truck itself has been rather trust worthy.  The only thing that was a > ‘break > down’ was the fuel pump…and the brakes were kinda critical.  It made the > trip > of 3000km (2000miles) from Canada to the US though without problems. > > We are looking at a 95 blazer. It has high miles but a low price. Are > they a > > reliable vehicle? Anyone have concerns or good experience with them?

Response:

I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy which is exactly the same as chevy Blazer. Two complaints exactly the same as Taylor: 1. The height of brake pedal is not adequate. It is also too heavy and a bit sloppy when you apply it. 2. Brake pad wears quickly. In my case, about every 15000 miles. When I drove my previous car, a Honda, I changed brake pad every 40,000 miles (same driver, as a comparison). I had also minor problems in interior lights and passenger side seat once. Sometimes, when I start engine at high temperature, engine makes some kind of groaning noise. However, it comes back to normal quickly. No other significant problem. I just changed my tires (~60,000 miles) and it may go for another 5 years. Mike Yang

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> About 1 1/3 years back I bought a used 1995 Chevy Blazer LT, loaded, with > 88,000km (55,000 miles) on it.  I fell in love with it.  My vehicle before was > my beautiful 1968 Pontiac Parisenne, so it was a change. > Likes >     Power everything >     4×4 on the fly >     It is a V6 so I get some power without loosing a LOT >     Some nice body and engine mods can be applied (I sugguest moving up to a K&N > filter or a K&N FIPK like I’m doing) >     Pretty good for -30C in the middle of winter…but not invincible as I bent > my rib on a curb as I slid into it.  So long for 4×4 and ABS… > Dislikes >     ABS (just dont like them, and I have to take it in for the second factory > recall during this 1.3 years I’ve had it) >     The brake pedal is too close.  It should be inline with the gas pedal so I > don’t have to do any EXTRA work when applying the brakes) >     Bought it from the dealer and I wore down the brakes within 6 months. We > estimated that I would go through brakes once/year.  Thats $400CAN/year on > brakes alone. (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) >     Then again, it IS only a V6. >     Engine is a little cramp…but I suppose that is true of most newer > vehicles. >     The vehicle needs to be an inch or two wider. >     Both O2 sensor replacements through the dealer could set you back $300CAN > (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) >     A/C went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it. ($600 worth) >     Fuel pump went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it ($500 worth) >     Recently lost power door locks and seats (electrical short – tracking it > down) > The truck itself has been rather trust worthy.  The only thing that was a ‘break > down’ was the fuel pump…and the brakes were kinda critical.  It made the trip > of 3000km (2000miles) from Canada to the US though without problems. > We are looking at a 95 blazer. It has high miles but a low price. Are they a > reliable vehicle? Anyone have concerns or good experience with them?

Response:

$400.00 for brakes?????? that’s insane. you can save yourself a lot of money by doing them yourself. they are not that hard. it’ll only cost you like $60.00 for the pads. and $10.00 per rotor if you need to have them machined. i bet the brakes went cause the sliders seized up on you. that happened on my safari van. i just did the brakes on it last week and it was only $300.00 for brand new rotors and bearings, calipers and slider pins and pads and enough fluid to flush the whole front brake system clean.. if you do decide to do your own brakes, please don’t use candian tire pads. i put a set on my 97 tahoe and they were crap. it wouldn’t stop at all anymore. i burned them in and they were a little better, but i didn’t put more than 5000 km on them when i changed them. they were like new but they were way too hard. i put some napa ones on and they were much better. the rear brakes on both my 95 safari and my 97 tahoe are still original. they still have 75,000 km and 100,000 km respectively left on them – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > About 1 1/3 years back I bought a used 1995 Chevy Blazer LT, loaded, with > 88,000km (55,000 miles) on it.  I fell in love with it.  My vehicle before was > my beautiful 1968 Pontiac Parisenne, so it was a change. > Likes >     Power everything >     4×4 on the fly >     It is a V6 so I get some power without loosing a LOT >     Some nice body and engine mods can be applied (I sugguest moving up to a K&N > filter or a K&N FIPK like I’m doing) >     Pretty good for -30C in the middle of winter…but not invincible as I bent > my rib on a curb as I slid into it.  So long for 4×4 and ABS… > Dislikes >     ABS (just dont like them, and I have to take it in for the second factory > recall during this 1.3 years I’ve had it) >     The brake pedal is too close.  It should be inline with the gas pedal so I > don’t have to do any EXTRA work when applying the brakes) >     Bought it from the dealer and I wore down the brakes within 6 months.  We > estimated that I would go through brakes once/year.  Thats $400CAN/year on > brakes alone. (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) >     Then again, it IS only a V6. >     Engine is a little cramp…but I suppose that is true of most newer > vehicles. >     The vehicle needs to be an inch or two wider. >     Both O2 sensor replacements through the dealer could set you back $300CAN > (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee) >     A/C went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it. ($600 worth) >     Fuel pump went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it ($500 worth) >     Recently lost power door locks and seats (electrical short – tracking it > down) > The truck itself has been rather trust worthy.  The only thing that was a ‘break > down’ was the fuel pump…and the brakes were kinda critical.  It made the trip > of 3000km (2000miles) from Canada to the US though without problems. > We are looking at a 95 blazer. It has high miles but a low price. Are they a > reliable vehicle? Anyone have concerns or good experience with them?

Response:

About 1 1/3 years back I bought a used 1995 Chevy Blazer LT, loaded, with 88,000km (55,000 miles) on it.  I fell in love with it.  My vehicle before was my beautiful 1968 Pontiac Parisenne, so it was a change. Likes     Power everything     4×4 on the fly     It is a V6 so I get some power without loosing a LOT     Some nice body and engine mods can be applied (I sugguest moving up to a K&N filter or a K&N FIPK like I’m doing)     Pretty good for -30C in the middle of winter…but not invincible as I bent my rib on a curb as I slid into it.  So long for 4×4 and ABS… Dislikes     ABS (just dont like them, and I have to take it in for the second factory recall during this 1.3 years I’ve had it)     The brake pedal is too close.  It should be inline with the gas pedal so I don’t have to do any EXTRA work when applying the brakes)     Bought it from the dealer and I wore down the brakes within 6 months.  We estimated that I would go through brakes once/year.  Thats $400CAN/year on brakes alone. (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee)     Then again, it IS only a V6.     Engine is a little cramp…but I suppose that is true of most newer vehicles.     The vehicle needs to be an inch or two wider.     Both O2 sensor replacements through the dealer could set you back $300CAN (not covered under my ‘premium’ warantee)     A/C went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it. ($600 worth)     Fuel pump went during this first 6 months…warantee covered it ($500 worth)     Recently lost power door locks and seats (electrical short – tracking it down) The truck itself has been rather trust worthy.  The only thing that was a ‘break down’ was the fuel pump…and the brakes were kinda critical.  It made the trip of 3000km (2000miles) from Canada to the US though without problems. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We are looking at a 95 blazer. It has high miles but a low price. Are they a > reliable vehicle? Anyone have concerns or good experience with them?

Response:

We are looking at a 95 blazer. It has high miles but a low price. Are they a reliable vehicle? Anyone have concerns or good experience with them?

Response:

Incentives

Question:

Anyone know if GM extended the current rebates, or is offering something else??  Last rebate expired 2/28

Response:

FOR RELEASE: March 1, 2002 GM Announces New Program; Keeps it in Overdrive Detroit – General Motors Corp. today announced that it will remain in Overdrive with a new retail marketing program. GM will offer $2,002 customer cash or APR financing rates of 0.0/2.9/3.9% (36/48/60 months) for qualified buyers on the purchase of most new 2002 model Chevrolet, Pontiac, GMC, Buick, and Oldsmobile cars and trucks through March. Several models will offer $1,500 customer cash or the 0.0/2.9/3.9 APR rates. They include: Chevrolet TrailBlazer; Silverado Ext. Cab and Crew Cab; Suburban and Tahoe; GMC Envoy; Sierra Ext. Cab and Crew Cab; Yukon and Yukon XL models; Oldsmobile Bravada and Pontiac Aztek. Cadillac, Saturn, SAAB, HUMMER, Chevrolet Corvette, GMC Envoy XL and all 2003 models are excluded. Brian  2001 XC600SP & 2001 XC120 for the kid http://www.SnowEtc.com  *updated 11-03-01 http://www.SnowmobileGarageSale.com  (free buy-sell-swap board) 1965 Evinrude Skeeter  for sale 1969 Sno-Prince  for sale http://www.LearnEtc.com

Response:

Does anyone use synthetics?

Question:

On the same note, my Father has an 89 GMC 1500 350/700R4 that has over 325 thousand miles on it, he has used castrol 20/50 since the day it was new, It still starts every cold morning, and every hot afternoon, and all in between.  It uses about a half a quart of oil in 5000 miles, (which is when he changes the oil, between 5000 and 6000 miles) and runs as good now as the day it was bought.  It has never had a bolt turned on the motor with the exception of plugs, wires, cap, rotor, 1 water pump, and 2 alternators.  the transmission has been changed 3 times, (every 100,000)  but that is because he tows 24 foot trailers loaded with equipment and hay all over the place, the truck has had a trailer hooked to it 3/4 of it’s life.  the rest of the truck is getting pretty worn, but the motor still runs good.  so I dont see any reason to go to synthetics

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I used mobile 1 in 87 vette since new – now 175K with no engine problems. > Pick up 5 qt container at Walmart for $18 > >RE/ > >>AMSOIL Synthetic motor oils dramatically…. > >Anybody know how the stuff is marketed?   Smells of some sort of > >pyramid/’Tupperware’/'Amway’ scheme to me. > >Pete Cresswell > I see the stuff in a couple of auto parts houses I go to. >                                  …Ron > — > 1988 Formula – 305 Tpi and 5 speed > Just acquired. more info as I tear into her. > 1968 Camaro RS – > Running much nicer now.  Thank you Barry Grant > Soon to be terrorizing imports everywhere. > http://www.frontiernet.net/~rscamero/camaro1.html

Response:

>On the same note, my Father has an 89 GMC 1500 350/700R4 that has over 325 >thousand miles on it, he has used castrol 20/50 since the day it was new, It >still starts every cold morning, and every hot afternoon, and all in >between.  It uses about a half a quart of oil in 5000 miles, (which is when >he changes the oil, between 5000 and 6000 miles) and runs as good now as the >day it was bought.  It has never had a bolt turned on the motor with the >exception of plugs, wires, cap, rotor, 1 water pump, and 2 alternators.  the >transmission has been changed 3 times, (every 100,000)  but that is because >he tows 24 foot trailers loaded with equipment and hay all over the place, >the truck has had a trailer hooked to it 3/4 of it’s life.  the rest of the >truck is getting pretty worn, but the motor still runs good.  so I dont see >any reason to go to synthetics

No shit… people make it sound like regular oil is crap compared to synthetics.  Hell, I have used regular petroleum based oil in my Dodge since I bought it and it now has 240,000 miles on it.  My last diesel Dodge had 378,000 miles on it before it started to lose power.  It still ran great, just didn’t have enough power to pull.  (blow-by) I’m not understanding the point of all this useless technology that they are using of late… We can get over 350,000 miles out of a vehicle… why do we need more?? Tony Kimmell Normal, IL "Injection is nice, but I’d rather be BLOWN" 90 Dodge 4×4 diesel 90 Buick Skylark 70 Chevy C-20

Response:

I used mobile 1 in 87 vette since new – now 175K with no engine problems. Pick up 5 qt container at Walmart for $18

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->RE/ >>AMSOIL Synthetic motor oils dramatically…. >Anybody know how the stuff is marketed?   Smells of some sort of >pyramid/’Tupperware’/'Amway’ scheme to me. >Pete Cresswell > I see the stuff in a couple of auto parts houses I go to. >                                  …Ron > — > 1988 Formula – 305 Tpi and 5 speed > Just acquired. more info as I tear into her. > 1968 Camaro RS – > Running much nicer now.  Thank you Barry Grant > Soon to be terrorizing imports everywhere. > http://www.frontiernet.net/~rscamero/camaro1.html

Response:

gawd, 250K miles! have you turned it off yet? you know, self starters have been on trucks for about 50 years now. the old anarchist

I use Mobil 1 15w50 Synthetic in my 98 Ram 1500. I have 250,000 miles of extremely heavy use on the engine. To this date, there has been no engine component failures.

Response:

>RE/ >AMSOIL Synthetic motor oils dramatically…. >Anybody know how the stuff is marketed?   Smells of some sort of >pyramid/’Tupperware’/'Amway’ scheme to me. >Pete Cresswell

I see the stuff in a couple of auto parts houses I go to.                                  …Ron — 1988 Formula – 305 Tpi and 5 speed Just acquired. more info as I tear into her. 1968 Camaro RS – Running much nicer now.  Thank you Barry Grant Soon to be terrorizing imports everywhere. http://www.frontiernet.net/~rscamero/camaro1.html

Response:

Why yes, yes I do!

Response:

RE/ >AMSOIL Synthetic motor oils dramatically….

Anybody know how the stuff is marketed?   Smells of some sort of pyramid/’Tupperware’/'Amway’ scheme to me. Pete Cresswell

Response:

They need the tough protection synthetic motor oil? LMAO! Yeah, okay. Just normal 10w30 Synthetic for my Dakota. Not a problem yet with it running in the 360 with constant abuse I give it. — Sean in Canada 95 Dodge Highline Acr 4 Dr. – Too many mods to list. 12.669 at 109.772 mph 1/4 mile. 95 Dodge Highline 4 Dr. Stock – 15.71 at 97 mph 1/4. 2000 Dodge Dakota 4×4 360 – slightly voided all warrenties and runs low 13’s in 1/4 Mile. 18 HP Kubota  LMAO!   Four-wheel drive ingines need the tough proteckshun synthetic moto’ oil an’ high-tech filters provide. Unbeatable lubricashun Extensive periods of heavy throttle applicashun, towin’, even stop an’ go drivin’ make ingines helter-skelter hot. Clean all-temp proteckshun – AMSOIL synthetic moto’ oils not only run clean in high temperatures, they acshully he’p hold down ingine heat durin’ high stress   operashuns. In cold temperatures, AMSOIL syn-thetic moto’ oils flow readily, providin’ dependable startin’ an’ quick post-startup proteckshun. Load proteckshun – Towin’ an’ travel on over rough terrain put extry load on th’ engine. AMSOIL synthetic moto’ oils provide an extremely durable lubri-catin’ film, one thet’s tough t’bust no matter how heavy th’ load, cuss it all t’ tarnation. A robest package   of anti-wears additives insures proteckshun aginst accelerated war durin’ high load operashun. Power an’ fuel economah – Super-smooth AMSOIL synthetic moto’ oils he’p ingines put through mo’e power than they does wif other oils. Thet saves fuel an’ boosts power an’ perfo’mance. Unbeatable filtrashun Air – Superio’ dirt corntainment air flow make AMSOIL foam air filters th’ bess choice fo’ wears   control perfo’mance, especially off-road, cuss it all t’ tarnation. Con-venient an’ cost-effeckive, AMSOIL air filters is reusable. Oil – Featurin’ a unique, rugged lof’ed-fiber element, AMSOIL Full-Flow Oil Filters provide 35 percent mo’e filterin’ capacity an’ 30 per-cent longer life than cornvenshunal filters does. By-Pass Oil – Th’ AMSOIL By-Pass Oil Filter inhances oil an’ ingine by keepin’ oil analytically   clean, as enny fool kin plainly see. Even th’ water an’ ultra-fine particles excape cornvenshunal oil filters is match fo’ th’ AMSOIL By-Pass Filter. Jool Remote – An AMSOIL Full-Flow an’ an AMSOIL By-Pass on sin’le mount which may be placed ennywhar in th’ engine fo’ maximum filter-changin’ cornvenience.   Bubba

Response:

Aw shoot! Fry mah hide! Yo’ haf mah profuse apologies fo’ mah mistakes. Af’er all ah was ejoocayted in th’ United States of South Car’lina jest like enny other smart varmint. Bubba – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Four-wheel drive ingines need the tough proteckshun synthetic moto’ oil an’ > high-tech filters provide. Unbeatable lubricashun > How is it that you caint spel korekly – don’ you no it is speld "tuff", not > tough?  (And in my part of the country, if you had to use the word "gulf" it > would be "guff", as in "guff coast".  Plus the mental imagery of those who > Praise the Lard! is pretty special too)

Response:

I use Mobil 1 15w50 Synthetic in my 98 Ram 1500. I have 250,000 miles of extremely heavy use on the engine. To this date, there has been no engine component failures.   AMSOIL Synthetic motor oils dramatically outperform conventional petroleum motor oils. Reduces friction, heat and wear for maximum power, performance and fuel efficiency. Resist high temperature burn-off, chemical breakdown and sludging – keeps engines cleaner. Outstanding low temperature fluidity for fast, dependable winter starts and immediate start-up protection. Exceeds the most demanding world-wide performance standards and meets warranty requirements for all domestic and imported passenger care and truck engines, both turbo-charges and non-turbo-charged. Up to 25,000-mile or 1-year drain intervals.You won’t have to change your oil every 3,000 miles with AMSOIL which is more cost effective and better for the environment. AMSOIL will save you money and give you the peace of mind that comes from using the best.   AMSOIL Saves You Money!   AMSOIL extended drain intervals mean fewer oil changes, long term savings and convenience.   Example:   Conventional motor oil companies recommend 3,000-mile drain intervals   Conventional 10W-30 Motor Oil   *(40 quarts needed for 25,000 miles)   8 Standard Oil Filters                   TOTAL                   $100.00   AMSOIL recommends 25,000-mile/1-year drain intervals   AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil   *(6 quarts needed for 25,000 miles)   2 AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter               TOTAL                        $54.20   *Comparison based on 25,000 miles driven per year and 5-quart oil capacity, with one quart top-off for filter change.   You save $45.80 per year using AMSOIL premium quality synthetic motor oil and oil filters.   Even if you drive only 12,000 miles per year, the cost of AMSOIL is the same as you pay for petroleum oil now! But you still get better protection, lower engine temperatures, easier cold-weather starts and less engine wear. All of these benefits add up to an engine that will last longer and need fewer repairs. Change your oil and filter today and in six months change the filter again. That’s it!   For more information or to order contact:   Ike Urbanik   http://www.socalmotox.com/products.htm

Response:

Four-wheel drive ingines need the tough proteckshun synthetic moto’ oil an’ high-tech filters provide. Unbeatable lubricashun How is it that you caint spel korekly – don’ you no it is speld "tuff", not tough?  (And in my part of the country, if you had to use the word "gulf" it would be "guff", as in "guff coast".  Plus the mental imagery of those who Praise the Lard! is pretty special too)

Response:

Four-wheel drive ingines need the tough proteckshun synthetic moto’ oil an’ high-tech filters provide. Unbeatable lubricashun Extensive periods of heavy throttle applicashun, towin’, even stop an’ go drivin’ make ingines helter-skelter hot. Clean all-temp proteckshun

2000 Silverado – Cheap Body

Question:

On my ‘00 I was washing it and put my knee on the bed rail and put a nice dent in it. Then when surveying the damage in the garage under flourescents I pushed down next to the dent with 1 thumb and put a second equal size dent in it. Also i noticed a dent on the fender from leaning over it to retreive a gas can from the bed!!! I complained to GM and they admit the problem and say to buy bed rail covers. ORVRider

Response:

Yep with price up in the $30,000 seem like you would get some decent STEEL materials. I hit a deer with my old 70 Chevy work truck at about 35mph and not a single dent except the plastic in the grille Thinking of putting together one of the 70 -72 model body on a late model frame with all the new Electronics

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

Yup, got a 200 GMC Sierra and a stone hit my hood, small enough that I did not notice the hit, it put a dent about 3/4" deep, looks real ugly. I took to body shop and they say they can fix but should repaint the whole hood to look like new or blow it in and put a bug deflector on, nice choice.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yep with price up in the $30,000 seem like you would get some decent STEEL > materials. > I hit a deer with my old 70 Chevy work truck at about 35mph and not a single > dent except the plastic in the grille > Thinking of putting together one of the 70 -72 model body on a late model > frame with all the new Electronics > I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding > on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, > I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

One other bit of advice,  DO NOT I repeat DO NOT stand or kneel on the bed rails….you WILL dent it. I am 6′ 4” and weigh about 230 lbs and I did dent mine when I gently rested my knee on the rails for a second. The metal on all the manufacturers are getting thinner each year, pretty soon they will be translucent. LOL

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> All these comments fascinate me.  My 2000 K2500 ext. cab sat out uncovered > in a hellacious hail storm last year and did not receive any dents.  The > hail was larger than golf ball sized.  We kept one in our freezer until > recently because we were so amazed that the truck was dentless. > I stood in my garage and watched the hail pummel the truck for over 5 > minutes thinking, Oh, sh*t!  It’ll have to be repaired all over.  When the > hail stopped, the truck was as new. > I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding > on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, > I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

All these comments fascinate me.  My 2000 K2500 ext. cab sat out uncovered in a hellacious hail storm last year and did not receive any dents.  The hail was larger than golf ball sized.  We kept one in our freezer until recently because we were so amazed that the truck was dentless. I stood in my garage and watched the hail pummel the truck for over 5 minutes thinking, Oh, sh*t!  It’ll have to be repaired all over.  When the hail stopped, the truck was as new.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

I think all manufacturers are lightening up the weight of the metals now a days, but I do know what you mean for example my neighbor was out cutting her lawn and a small pebble flew out and hit my truck. This pebble would have probably just chipped the paint on my old 94 Chevy p/u, but it did put a small dent in my new Silverado…go figure.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> sounds like you got a future all star quarterback there! > I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

jeah. i was working on my mom’s 71 chevelle malibu ss a while ago (it’s been in the garage since she bought it about ten years ago) and i got to noticing the sheetmetal.  talking about monster thickness, it looked like 14 gauge. i’ve been noticing that sheetmetal thickness varies over the years, it’s been getting exceptionally thin again like it did in the mid-eighties.  the 88-98 style chevy truck had thin sheetmetal too, but it was in such a shape that it didn’t dent easy (the whole panel took the hit). i’ve noticed that the new sheetmetal is about the same grade as white appliances (washers, dryers, ranges).  i wonder what gives?  probably some damn cheap-assed mechanical engineer was told to cut costs and instead cut corners. anyway, i’ve seen a lot of trucks in the dealerships with little dents in them.  they look like a golfball hit them.  then you also see the little spots that look like creases, like when someone leans up against a vehicle and the fender caves in. if i were anxious, i’d get myself a wooden hammer, a chamois, and a block of wood to see if i could get the dent out. -Brian

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding on it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, I’m glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

sounds like you got a future all star quarterback there! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I own a 2000 Silverado 4 door z71.  Today my 4 yr old son threw a little > plastic beach pail at the truck and actually put a pretty good size ding on > it!!  Talk about flimsy sheet metal.  getting dented by plastic!!!  boy, I’m > glad my other car is a Saturn.

Response:

Japanese Girl Needs Guidance.

Question:

Hello, I am in the market for a new RUV and I am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove one last night and was quite impressed by it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and was impressed with it as well. Naturally, each – respective – car salesman gave me the long list of negatives about the "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary here. I like both vehicles and my main concern is that I get the best value for my money. Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please do so to my private email address as well as to the group. I plan to make a decision this week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. Thank you, Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

Kaori, Ford SUV’s include the Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer and Lincoln Navigator. THese are essentially the same vehicle with different nameplates and price tags. Standard equipment levels and options will also vary. Many For dealers are also Lincoln/Mercury dealers and the same salesman can give you a test drive in all 3 vehicles. Dan Driscoll 1992 Sport 4.0L 4×4 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, > I am in the market for a new RUV and I > am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove > one last night and was quite impressed by > it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. > I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and > was impressed with it as well. > Naturally, each – respective – car salesman > gave me the long list of negatives about the > "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary > here. I like both vehicles and my main > concern is that I get the best value for my > money. > Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please > do so to my private email address as well > as to the group. I plan to make a decision this > week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. > Thank you, > Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

BTW, nice hook, but it is still spam.

<snip>

Response:

> Kaori, > Ford SUV’s include the Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer and Lincoln > Navigator. THese are essentially the same vehicle with different > nameplates and price tags. Standard equipment levels and options will > also vary. Many For dealers are also Lincoln/Mercury dealers and the > same salesman can give you a test drive in all 3 vehicles.

The navigator is an Expedition, not an explorer.

Response:

Well, you obviously now know that the Lincoln Navigator and the Ford Explorer are really from two different worlds.  The Explorer can’t truly be compared to the Navigator – its sort of like comparing "apples and oranges".  A better comparison would be the Ford Expedition versus the Lincoln Navigator or the Chevrolet, GMC, or Cadillac counterparts.  The Explorer’s main competition is the Mercury Mountaineer, Chevy Blazer, Oldsmobile Bravada, Isuzu Rodeo, Honda Passport, Nissan Pathfinder, etc. By far and away, the Explorer is the best seller of the bunch – that doesn’t mean its necessarily the best for your needs, but it speaks to the popularity of the vehicle.  I believe that all of the vehicles in this class offer V-6 power as standard and some offer an optional V-8. The Ford and the Mercury are essentially identical except that the Mercury offers nicer interior appointments as standard whereas you’ll pay extra to get the same thing in the Ford.  The Mercury does have a slightly higher sticker price so you’ll have to decide if interior treatments are worth the extra bucks.  The foreign imports that I’ve driven tend to ride more like "trucks" and less like "cars".  I own a ‘93 Explorer XLT and find the ride quite pleasant.  The harshest ride of the bunch had to be the Isuzu Rodeo in my opinion. Will you want to tow anything with it?  If so, you may want to consider getting the optional V-8 power which may limit your choices since I don’t believe any of the imports offer this option.  Like any vehicle, the Ford Explorer has had its share of documented troubles but my experience with it has been a good one even so.  I think that the Ford and Mercury models have the nicest interiors but I also thought that the leather seats in the Nissan were quite comfortable as well. As with anything, you’ll want to buy whatever will give you the "biggest bang for the buck".  In my book, that would be the Ford Explorer. Hope this helps. Mark

Response:

The Navigator is larger than the Explorer, costs more for the vehicle and will cost more in insurance, maintenance and gas. Since you like both the Explorer and the Navigator I would recommend going with the Explorer LIMITED as the best bang for the buck. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I am in the market for a new RUV and I > am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove > one last night and was quite impressed by > it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. > I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and > was impressed with it as well. > Naturally, each – respective – car salesman > gave me the long list of negatives about the > "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary > here. I like both vehicles and my main > concern is that I get the best value for my > money. > Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please > do so to my private email address as well > as to the group. I plan to make a decision this > week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. > Thank you, > Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

Kaori: If all else is the same,  and your bank account will stand it, the Navigator seems to be holding value quite well these days.  There are plenty of Explorers on the road, and what appears to be a limited supply of Navigators. The Navigator is a big step up from the Explorer in terms of both size and price point.  Not really a fair comparison. Parking space and fuel economy may sway you back to the Explorer or Mountaineer, Mercury’s version of the Explorer. In the same price range as the Navigator, consider the Range Rover, and also the new BMW X5.  Drove the BMW recently, and consider it the best of any so far.  Definitely worth a look. dr bob ps– interesting website! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hello, >I am in the market for a new RUV and I >am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove >one last night and was quite impressed by >it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. >I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and >was impressed with it as well. >Naturally, each – respective – car salesman >gave me the long list of negatives about the >"other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary >here. I like both vehicles and my main >concern is that I get the best value for my >money. >Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please >do so to my private email address as well >as to the group. I plan to make a decision this >week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. >Thank you, >Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

Ford’s current SUVs (Ford/Lincoln) are the Explorer/Mountaineer, and the Expedition/Navigator. These are two different families of vehicles; the Expedition/Navigator is larger than the Explorer/Mountaineer. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Kaori, >Ford SUV’s include the Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer and Lincoln >Navigator. THese are essentially the same vehicle with different >nameplates and price tags. Standard equipment levels and options will >also vary. Many For dealers are also Lincoln/Mercury dealers and the >same salesman can give you a test drive in all 3 vehicles. >Dan Driscoll >1992 Sport >4.0L 4×4 > Hello, > I am in the market for a new RUV and I > am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove > one last night and was quite impressed by > it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. > I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and > was impressed with it as well. > Naturally, each – respective – car salesman > gave me the long list of negatives about the > "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary > here. I like both vehicles and my main > concern is that I get the best value for my > money. > Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please > do so to my private email address as well > as to the group. I plan to make a decision this > week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. > Thank you, > Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

Oops, my mistake, the Navigator is an Expedition, not an Explorer. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Kaori, > Ford SUV’s include the Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer and Lincoln > Navigator. THese are essentially the same vehicle with different > nameplates and price tags. Standard equipment levels and options will > also vary. Many For dealers are also Lincoln/Mercury dealers and the > same salesman can give you a test drive in all 3 vehicles. > Dan Driscoll > 1992 Sport > 4.0L 4×4

Response:

Hey.. Even naked girls have go to the store for groceries.. NCOddBob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > BTW, nice hook, but it is still spam. > <snip>

Response:

My family has one of each – best bet is Navigator…Definately a better all round package. However, we are talking at cross purposes – as the other respondents noted, the Navigator is further up the range than the Explorer, and has, consequently, a better fit out spec. Good Luck! P.S. We are in Scotland & there are not too many of these things about over here!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I am in the market for a new RUV and I > am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove > one last night and was quite impressed by > it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. > I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and > was impressed with it as well. > Naturally, each – respective – car salesman > gave me the long list of negatives about the > "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary > here. I like both vehicles and my main > concern is that I get the best value for my > money. > Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please > do so to my private email address as well > as to the group. I plan to make a decision this > week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. > Thank you, > Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

Form and Function are the two criteria you need to consider. Function: The Explorer seems to be the best compromise in size for most people, that may be why this size vehicle (mid-sized SUV) still outsells minis like the RAV and CRV, or full-sized such as the Expedition, Chevy Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon. The question is what you need the SUV for. If you plan to haul a lot of people and gear around frequently (week-long camping/kayaking/biking trips with four other friends), the Expedition makes more sense than the Explorer. But remember that, unless this is a second or extra vehicle, you will be driving this thing everyday for the next several years, and to have a car that’s too big or too small is a real pain. If all you need is something that holds people and material better than a sedan or station wagon, the Explorer is the better choice. I assume you are not interested in the off-road capability of the 4 wheel drive versions of the Explorer/Expedition as you made mention of it, but genuine 4X4 aficionados often don’t seem like the Explorer from what I gather in other newsgroups. Form: Once you decide on whether to purchase mid-size (Explorer/Mountaineer) or full-size (Expedition/Navigator), you need to determine the trim level based on your tolerance or desire for luxury versus the rapid depreciation of features for which you will not receive even 30% compensation (you can compare options in a blue book to the options on the window sticker). Each make has between 2 to 4 trim levels. If you go high end, you’d want the Mountaineer or Navigator. It makes not sense to get a stripped-down version the Mountaineer or Navigator, because for the same price you can get a higher trimmed Explorer or Expedition. Also, you often get a better value to purchase a higher trim level than a lower variation with the same features added on as options. Often times, the features you may want will not be available on a lower trim model. The day after you buy the car is not the time to wish you had a V8 instead of a V6, or 4 wheel drive, or a moonroof (my aftermarket costs double the factory option price), or rear A/C. I hope you will take the time to carefully study the brochures (though they be flimsy fold-outs instead of the real booklets of the past) and highlight the features that are important to you before going back to finalize your purchase. The Competition: I have my reasons for owning an Explorer,  but it makes sense to educate yourself about what the competition if offering. I would also check out the similar models offered by Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Jeep, and Chevy Blazer (for small to mid-sized) and Chevy Tahoe for full-size before you decide. Yes, it will take time and effort. But then again, how much money are you committing? Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I am in the market for a new RUV and I > am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove > one last night and was quite impressed by > it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. > I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and > was impressed with it as well. > Naturally, each – respective – car salesman > gave me the long list of negatives about the > "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary > here. I like both vehicles and my main > concern is that I get the best value for my > money. > Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please > do so to my private email address as well > as to the group. I plan to make a decision this > week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. > Thank you, > Kaori Ayn Honeywell

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I am in the market for a new RUV and I > am looking at the Ford Explorer. I test drove > one last night and was quite impressed by > it’s comfort, power and the way it handled. > I also test drove the Lincoln Navigator and > was impressed with it as well. > Naturally, each – respective – car salesman > gave me the long list of negatives about the > "other" vehicle. So, I’m really at a quandary > here. I like both vehicles and my main > concern is that I get the best value for my > money. > Anyone who feels qualified to respond, please > do so to my private email address as well > as to the group. I plan to make a decision this > week and purchase the vehicle this weekend. > Thank you, > Kaori Ayn Honeywell

Response:

Jimmy or Explorer???

Question:

Hi: I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? Thanks so very much in advance. Patrick.

Response:

I’m assuming you need a 4WD. Personally I’d pick the Explorer. kenny Why? GM has not impressed me in while with their trucks. — If you would like information on how to properly maintain your vehicle(s) without spending a fortune, feel free to contact me at http://members.tripod.com/~Nightwing66/Auto.html http://wwp.mirabilis.com/12628023

Response:

> I’m assuming you need a 4WD. Personally I’d pick the Explorer. > kenny

Depends on if he wants a 4×4 truck or a 4×4 station wagon.   —

Response:

know how many damned explorers there already are on the street?  You can’t drive for one minute without seeing one!  Besides that, Ford has poor quality control and customer care.  My dad bought an ‘87 Taurus brand new, which ruined his image of ford.  Here’s a list of all the things that went wrong with the car in just 3 years. 1.  Main engine bearings failed (no replacement parts available).  Car sat at dealer unassembled before they could figure this out 2.  Power door lock mecahnism failed 3.  Thrust bearing on cam shaft failed 4.  Alignment knocked out of place 3 times in 3 months, which was the mechanic’s fault for knocking it out 5.  Worn spindle rods in front end, after the front tires that came with the car wore down to the steel belt at 9,000 miles 6.  Right front speaker went in and out 7.  Power steering pump seal leak 8.  Entire electronic dashboard went out 9.  Radiator hose swelled, almost to the point of bursting 10.  Battery 11.  Battery again (a week later) 12.  Entire electronic dash went out (again) 13.  Entire electrical system out (a/c, turn signals, dash, of course, and everything else) In short, this car was a piece of junk.  I now have a 1985 Pontiac Parisienne, which has never had any problems other than those I have created myself.  It now has 130,000 miles.  Buy GM. Michael Semon

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > know how many damned explorers there already are on the street?  You can’t > drive for one minute without seeing one!  Besides that, Ford has poor > quality control and customer care.  My dad bought an ‘87 Taurus brand new, > which ruined his image of ford.  Here’s a list of all the things that went > wrong with the car in just 3 years. > 1.  Main engine bearings failed (no replacement parts available).  Car sat > at dealer unassembled before they could figure this out > 2.  Power door lock mecahnism failed > 3.  Thrust bearing on cam shaft failed > 4.  Alignment knocked out of place 3 times in 3 months, which was the > mechanic’s fault for knocking it out > 5.  Worn spindle rods in front end, after the front tires that came with the > car wore down to the steel belt at 9,000 miles > 6.  Right front speaker went in and out > 7.  Power steering pump seal leak > 8.  Entire electronic dashboard went out > 9.  Radiator hose swelled, almost to the point of bursting > 10.  Battery > 11.  Battery again (a week later) > 12.  Entire electronic dash went out (again) > 13.  Entire electrical system out (a/c, turn signals, dash, of course, and

I own 2 Chevy Blazers and both have provided excellent service. The old work horse is a 1987 model with a 2.8 engine. It has 172,000 miles on it, and have not had any problems with it yet. The newer Blazer is a 1992 with a 4.3 Vortec engine with 90,000 miles. Never no problems. I bought both vehicles used. My son bought a Ford Bronco II, the same time I bought the 87 Blazer S-10 in 1990, and he had to replace the transmission at 90,000 miles. Soon after the engine blew up. He finally junked it, as he was sick of that Bronco. Now he owns a Corvette and a Geo Metro. One for pleasure, the other for driving to work. The last Ford I owned was a 1954 Fairlane. It was OK, but since then I only have owned GM vehicles or foreign, like Mercedes, Peugeot and VW. The person asking which SUV to buy, I would suggest a Jimmy, Blazer, or a Bravada.

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In 1992 I bought a new F150 4×4.  Had several problems with fuel pumps and it beat the hell out of you on a rough road. In 1996 I bought a Z71. Probably the best vehicle I ever owned. Smooth riding, no mechanical problems, pulls like hell in mud or sand, but wears out tires real fast. I am picking up a new 4×4 Jimmy tomorrow.  I ordered the G80 (locking differential) option.  Be sure to get this or you will have a 2 wheel drive ….. one pulling in front and one in the back. My wife has an Explorer that is not a 4×4, it has 75,000 miles on it and has been a very good vehicle.  No complaints here either. Buy which ever one grabs you.  Just get the good warranty. Good luck.   Dr. F.T. Allen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi: >I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is >that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on >Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience >with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? >Thanks so very much in advance. >Patrick.

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I have never owned either vehicle, but would just like to point out one thing. If you buy a GMC Jimmy or Chevrolet Blazer-with the V6 engine, that engine shares many components with the Chevrolet small-block V8 engine, the same one that has been manufactured since 1955, so part replacement and/or performance upgrade will be relatively cheap and convenient, now, and in the future. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi: >I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is >that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on >Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience >with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? >Thanks so very much in advance. >Patrick.

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:>>I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is :>>that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on :>>Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience :>>with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? Based on GM’s track record for engine failures within 40K miles, I would pick the Explorer.

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> :>>that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on > :>>Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience > :>>with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? > Based on GM’s track record for engine failures within 40K miles, I would pick > the Explorer.

As long as you don’t have any deep puddles around your home or you won’t be getting 40k out of the engine :-)

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>Hi: >I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is >that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on >Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience >with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? >Thanks so very much in advance. >Patrick.

Well actually neither,  I find the Jimmy to be both under powered & braked.  The Explorer is a Ford (nuff said). I’d go with a Durango.  It’s has a V-8 option, better styling, price, third seat option, all sorts of little neat storage bins/compartments. So lets rag on Dodges now :) . 1995 Yellow LT1

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi: >I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is >that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on >Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience >with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? >Thanks so very much in advance. >Patrick. > Well actually neither,  I find the Jimmy to be both under powered & > braked.  The Explorer is a Ford (nuff said). > I’d go with a Durango.  It’s has a V-8 option, better styling, price, > third seat option, all sorts of little neat storage bins/compartments. > So lets rag on Dodges now :) . > 1995 Yellow LT1

I’d skip all of those and get a full size.  Manual transmission can be had with the 2-door Tahoe if you like shifting for yourself.  Better yet, save $10K and get a SWB pickup and put a shell on it.  A nicely optioned Silverado 4WD can be had for $22K invoice. — Cheers, Steve 82 Z28 96 K1500 The opinions expressed here are mine alone and do not represent those of my employer or any one else. "It riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave…"                                                       Moody Blues

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A Jimmy underpowered?  I have a 94 with the 4.3 vortec engine and find it has plenty of power.  As for replacement parts for it, I have not had to major work yet (thankfully), but the block is the 5.7 V-8 minus 2 cylinders. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >Hi: > >I am very new to this group.  The reason that I am coming to this group is > >that I am buying a 4WD soon (in fact, in a few days), but can’t decide on > >Explorer or Jimmy.  Just wondering if anyone has some good/bad experience > >with Explorer or Jimmy?  What do you suggest? > >Thanks so very much in advance. > >Patrick. > Well actually neither,  I find the Jimmy to be both under powered & > braked.  The Explorer is a Ford (nuff said). > I’d go with a Durango.  It’s has a V-8 option, better styling, price, > third seat option, all sorts of little neat storage bins/compartments. > So lets rag on Dodges now :) . > 1995 Yellow LT1 > I’d skip all of those and get a full size.  Manual transmission can be > had with the 2-door Tahoe if you like shifting for yourself.  Better > yet, save $10K and get a SWB pickup and put a shell on it.  A > nicely optioned Silverado 4WD can be had for $22K invoice. > — > Cheers, > Steve > 82 Z28 > 96 K1500 > The opinions expressed here are mine alone and do not represent those of > my employer or any one else. > "It riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave…" >                                                       Moody Blues

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