Please Help… 99 GMC Sierra 1500 4×4 Ext Cab Suspension

Question:

> Standard suspension

A few things to look into. 1)  Do you have P or LT rated tires?  LT’s will ride much firmer than P-rated tires. 2)  What is your tire pressure?  35 psi should give you the best ride. 3)  I’ve had great results with Gabriel Sport-Ryder shocks on my truck. Ride nice, cheap as dirt, lifetime warranty, and 40k later they’re still going strong. Doc

Response:

Since I bought the truck a few years back (used) I have always found it rough on bumps… especially the front, not smooth at all. Similar trucks I have rode in I find the suspension is much more forgiving. Mine seems to ride like a heavy duty 2500. I was going to buy new shocks… but I am not certain if that is the problem. Can anyone help me out? Thanks

Response:

> Since I bought the truck a few years back (used) I have always found it > rough on bumps… especially the front, not smooth at all. Similar > trucks I have rode in I find the suspension is much more forgiving. > Mine seems to ride like a heavy duty 2500. > I was going to buy new shocks… but I am not certain if that is the > problem. > Can anyone help me out? > Thanks

Is yours the Z71 or standard suspension? Doc

Response:

Standard suspension

Response:

GM Janesville, WI. Plant

Question:

"Old Crow"  wrote > Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI > a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can > get those boards on in about 45 minutes.

I haven’t done a Suburban in a while, but I thought the time had been cut.  I do know that the Astro’s running boards are nasty. I just don’t think it will make much difference to the tech’s.  I hardly do PDI’s anymore.  Used to be that we would have so many we would have to stay late one night a week to get them done.  Even then, I’d take 5 Cavaliers over a Suburban…heh heh. > What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with > the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the > roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it.

I’ve never done one of those.  That would be nasty.  I’ve heard some horror stories of tech’s not putting a stop on the drill bit and cranking right on through the interior liner.  What do you say?  OOOppppps!!! Ian

Response:

IAN, If you drill the holes for the Avalanche roof rack from the outside, what holds the rack down ? just sheet metal screws? I thought it be bolted down from the inside. Hope you put some paint on the bolt holes so the owners don’t have 12 rusty holes on top in a few years…lol. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

WHen we tried to sell my dads 99 Navigator after he died in 2001 we advertise for two weeks, no callers, we advertised it as not having 4 wheel drive. Asked the Lincoln dealer if they would like to buy it back and they said you couldn’t sell that vehicle here ( in Chicago ) without 4 wheel drive, possibly in Florida or California. I told the salesman " Well my dad bought it here, and he didn’t need 4 wheel drive and probably the rest of the people that bought one here didn’t need it either or don’t even understand the purpose of it". He offered us $23,000 for it – a 99 with 10,854 miles in mint condition – We said no thanks. We advertised again, plus told people we knew if they knew anyone looking for one to pass the word around. One of the Bank Officers at mom’s bank bought it for $29,000. Dad paid a shade under $41,000 for it new. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

"Harry Face" wrote > If you drill the holes for the Avalanche roof rack from the outside, > what holds the rack down ? just sheet metal screws?

They use special blind nuts that operate like a rivet. > Hope you put some paint on the bolt holes so the owners don’t have 12 > rusty holes on top in a few years…lol.

Sorry, doesn’t say anything in the instructions about painting the holes, nor does it pay to do that. Pretty cynical, huh?  Actually, I believe that the design of the blind nuts are supposed to "weatherproof" the hole. Ian

Response:

I stand corrected, its the same as my Denali then. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The Navigator has automatic AWD, it is not a 4X4 > mike hunt > Who would even think of driving a 50k Lincoln Navigator in the snow!!! > I’ll bet the 4×4 has never been activated in 90% of those trucks. > Jerry H. > > Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? > > The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. > > They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! > > lol > > GW > > > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > > > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > > > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > > > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > > > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > > > place. > > > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > > > Harryface > > > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > > > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

I would imagine they likely use those kind of screws that have a sort of goo coating on the threads that’s supposed to coat the metal where the hole was drilled through.. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> IAN, > If you drill the holes for the Avalanche roof rack from the outside, > what holds the rack down ? just sheet metal screws? > I thought it be bolted down from the inside. > Hope you put some paint on the bolt holes so the owners don’t have 12 > rusty holes on top in a few years…lol. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

That one of the reasons why Ford trucks have outsold Chevy for over twenty-five years.  Ford listens to it customers and had been offering factory running boards for about eight years.  They even have automatic retracting boards, that extend and retract when the doors open, on some of their trucks and SUV’s. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 > GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant > that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM > truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a > move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV > built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL > are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in place. Sounds like a dumb option to me. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! lol GW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > place. > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory installing the running boards when the trucks came in. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 > GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant > that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM > truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a > move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV > built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL > are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

Who would even think of driving a 50k Lincoln Navigator in the snow!!! I’ll bet the 4×4 has never been activated in 90% of those trucks. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? > The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. > They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! > lol > GW > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > place. > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in.

Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say. Ian

Response:

Jerry My dad ordered a 99 Navigator to get it without the 4 wheel drive, boy did he go round and round with the salesman over that. Nobody stocked a 2 wheel drive Navigator. Finally they caved in and order the damn thing. Daddy also owned  5 pick uo trucks , none of them 4 x 4’s. Navigator rode great in the snow. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_          

Response:

>"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in. >Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install >those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say.

Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can get those boards on in about 45 minutes. What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it. — Old Crow ‘82 FLTC 92" ‘Pearl’ TOMKAT, SENS, BS#133, DOF#51 ASE Certified Master Auto Tech Chevy Certified Master Tech

Response:

That’s what they said about windshield washer when they came out.  ;) mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > place. > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

Dealers in the snow belt stock the AWD.  In the sun belt they stock both.  The problem is if he lives in the snow belt, and tries to sell a RWD SUV in the snow belt, nobody will take it in trade.  Gotta sell it in the south or loose your shirt on the trade price. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Jerry > My dad ordered a 99 Navigator to get it without the 4 wheel drive, boy > did he go round and round with the salesman over that. Nobody stocked a > 2 wheel drive Navigator. Finally they caved in and order the damn thing. > Daddy also owned  5 pick uo trucks , none of them 4 x 4’s. > Navigator rode great in the snow. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

The Navigator has automatic AWD, it is not a 4X4 mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Who would even think of driving a 50k Lincoln Navigator in the snow!!! > I’ll bet the 4×4 has never been activated in 90% of those trucks. > Jerry H. > Haven’t you seeen the commercials HF? > The power running boards are so women don’t have to step in puddles. > They would never think to drive in snow, sheesh, the thought!! > lol > GW > > Is there a way to shut off the power running boards? > > I can just imagine driving a few hours on a snowy highway, and have all > > the snow clinging underneath frozen soild. Then the poor owner opes the > > door to get out and his running board motors kick on ,,,,, > > wrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRR.. but the boards don’t move because there frozen in > > place. > > Sounds like a dumb option to me. > > Harryface > > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > > ~_~_~254,000 miles_~_~~_

Response:

can i ask what may be a dumb question? what is PDI’s

Response:

 Preparation of Dealer Inventory if I recall. You know the dealer prep charge everyone complains about….. The one everyone thinks is just a wash and wax… Steve W. — Pacifism – The theory that if they’d fed  Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,  he’d have become a vegan.

> can i ask what may be a dumb question? > what is PDI’s

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> Preparation of Dealer Inventory if I recall. You know the dealer prep >charge everyone complains about….. >The one everyone thinks is just a wash and wax… >Steve W.

I figured it as Pre-Delivery Inspection…

Response:

"Mike Levy A+, N+, MCP"  wrote > I figured it as Pre-Delivery Inspection…

That’s the one. Ian

Response:

thanks guys for the lesson. thats what i like about this group, i am always learning something new. thanks again.

Response:

Steve, This is NOT the ‘dealers prep’ as you call it.  Dealers do not charge for it, they are PAID to do it by GM.  So much time is alloted for each individual model.  This is to check all fluids, pull off all protective coverings, put in some gas, install items like running boards, roof racks, hubcabs, etc. The ‘wax’ jobs, interior coatings, pinstripes, etc are usually included in what you are referring to.  $25-$75 worth of work that they want to charge $399-$599 for.  Thank God the dealership I worked for never got into all that. Jerry H. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Preparation of Dealer Inventory if I recall. You know the dealer prep > charge everyone complains about….. > The one everyone thinks is just a wash and wax… > Steve W. > — > Pacifism – The theory that if they’d fed >  Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh, >  he’d have become a vegan. > can i ask what may be a dumb question? > what is PDI’s > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

"Old Crow"  wrote > Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI > a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can > get those boards on in about 45 minutes.

I haven’t done a Suburban in a while, but I thought the time had been cut.  I do know that the Astro’s running boards are nasty. I just don’t think it will make much difference to the tech’s.  I hardly do PDI’s anymore.  Used to be that we would have so many we would have to stay late one night a week to get them done.  Even then, I’d take 5 Cavaliers over a Suburban…heh heh. > What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with > the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the > roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it.

I’ve never done one of those.  That would be nasty.  I’ve heard some horror stories of tech’s not putting a stop on the drill bit and cranking right on through the interior liner.  What do you say?  OOOppppps!!! Ian

Response:

>"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in. >Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install >those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say.

Now Ian, I don’t know how it is in Canada, but here it pays 2.9 to PDI a Suburban with running boards and only 1.2 without.  I for one can get those boards on in about 45 minutes. What I was glad to see was the when the Avalanche started coming with the roof rack installed.  I absolutely hated drilling 12 holes in the roof of a $40k vehicle with 0 miles on it. — Old Crow ‘82 FLTC 92" ‘Pearl’ TOMKAT, SENS, BS#133, DOF#51 ASE Certified Master Auto Tech Chevy Certified Master Tech

Response:

Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory installing the running boards when the trucks came in. Jerry H.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Chicago Tribune Cars -Section 6 page 7 > GM is investing $4 million dollars in its Janesville, Wisconsin plant > that builds the company’s full size SUV’s. It will become the only GM > truck plant in North America capable of installing running boards, a > move expected to save more than $7 million a year. About 98 % of the SUV > built in Janesville – The Chevy Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon and Yukon XL > are ordered with running boards that are installed by the dealers.

Response:

"Jerry Hamilton"  wrote > The dealers will hate that.  They were making big bucks off the factory > installing the running boards when the trucks came in.

Tech’s won’t care.  Half the time they paid shit to install those running boards.  Good riddance to bad rubbish, I say. Ian

Response:

S-10/15 4.3 Remote Oil Filter Line Leak

Question:

Looks like the oil lines between the filter housing and the radiator cooler have begun to leak on my ‘94 GMC Jimmy S-15. (4.3 with 82000 miles). I have heard this is a common problem with the remote filter. Is there any type of fix that does not involve replacing the lines ?? Some sort of clamp to tighten the fittings ?? If lines must be replaced, what is usual cost for the part, and is it available on-line or mail order ?? Any special tools or procedures to change ?? The fittings on the radiator end look like they might require special attention. Any info, comments, experiences appreciated. TIA, Reed

Response:

Reed, Mine is leaking, I was told to replace right away…if they  blow, you can ruin the whole engine real fast!  What next!   Andy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Looks like the oil lines between the filter housing and the > radiator cooler have begun to leak on my ‘94 GMC Jimmy S-15. (4.3 > with 82000 miles). I have heard this is a common problem with the > remote filter. Is there any type of fix that does not involve > replacing the lines ?? Some sort of clamp to tighten the fittings > ?? If lines must be replaced, what is usual cost for the part, and > is it available on-line or mail order ?? Any special tools or > procedures to change ?? The fittings on the radiator end look like > they might require special attention. > Any info, comments, experiences appreciated. > TIA, > Reed

Response:

Your lucky, I’ve got a 98 Blazer with 53,000 and not only are the block to oil filter lines leaking but the ones to the cooler are also…… It’s about $66.00 for the block to filter and $35.00 filter to cooler oil lines from the dealer, Mine are back ordered with Chevy…….Seems like they should recall the entire lot of vehicles  with this set up!!!!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Reed, > Mine is leaking, I was told to replace right away…if they  blow, you > can ruin the whole engine > real fast!  What next!   Andy > Looks like the oil lines between the filter housing and the > radiator cooler have begun to leak on my ‘94 GMC Jimmy S-15. (4.3 > with 82000 miles). I have heard this is a common problem with the > remote filter. Is there any type of fix that does not involve > replacing the lines ?? Some sort of clamp to tighten the fittings > ?? If lines must be replaced, what is usual cost for the part, and > is it available on-line or mail order ?? Any special tools or > procedures to change ?? The fittings on the radiator end look like > they might require special attention. > Any info, comments, experiences appreciated. > TIA, > Reed

Response:

I have a 96 Blazer 4X4 and had to replace the lines from the radiator to the remote. That was a few months ago. I to have noticed the line from the block to the remote is going bad. The part looks more expensive and time consuming to do. Took me 45 min to replace the front one. GM told me 1hr and 15min for back one. Jason – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Looks like the oil lines between the filter housing and the > radiator cooler have begun to leak on my ‘94 GMC Jimmy S-15. (4.3 > with 82000 miles). I have heard this is a common problem with the > remote filter. Is there any type of fix that does not involve > replacing the lines ?? Some sort of clamp to tighten the fittings > ?? If lines must be replaced, what is usual cost for the part, and > is it available on-line or mail order ?? Any special tools or > procedures to change ?? The fittings on the radiator end look like > they might require special attention. > Any info, comments, experiences appreciated. > TIA, > Reed

Response:

You could replace the setup with manufactured hydraulic hoses.  The aluminum just doesn’t seem to cut it on the OEM. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Looks like the oil lines between the filter housing and the > radiator cooler have begun to leak on my ‘94 GMC Jimmy S-15. (4.3 > with 82000 miles). I have heard this is a common problem with the > remote filter. Is there any type of fix that does not involve > replacing the lines ?? Some sort of clamp to tighten the fittings > ?? If lines must be replaced, what is usual cost for the part, and > is it available on-line or mail order ?? Any special tools or > procedures to change ?? The fittings on the radiator end look like > they might require special attention. > Any info, comments, experiences appreciated. > TIA, > Reed

Response:

Whats wrong, Astro?

Question:

my site is up now

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> your website doesnt work, cannot find server > Don’t think that I am a moron. > "should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it > should fit in an Astro van" > I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into > cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them. I > may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing. > As for the code scan thing, I have never worked on  anything this new > before > and didn’t know of this method of diagnosis. Thanks for your help > > my mom has a 93 Astro with 135k and the service engine soon light comes > on > > sometimes (when I floor it) and it smokes a little when you start it but > > that is because of worn valve seals it has had problems with the > serpentine > > belt going bad and it also has a problem when it is warm and you turn it > off > > and when you come back to drive it again it wont come out of park unless > you > > let it cool off for 10 to 30 minutes and one time it took more than an > hour > > before it would work. > > is it time for a rebuild? or should I put a small block in it, if I can > get > > one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van > KRAMER > > Kramer’s 350 S-10 > > www.orangekitty.com/350s-10 > > The V-8 S-series WebRing > > http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=V8S10&list > > AIM: KRAMER4583

Response:

>Don’t think that I am a moron. >"should I put a small block in it, if I can get one >in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van" >I was joking.

Did you read the older posts? I did just that. Twice. One was originally a V6, and the other was originally a 4 cyl. "It’s a crazy world, have fun with it." -Jerry Springer "Remember, when someone annoys you that it takes 42 muscles to frown, but it only takes 4 muscles to extend your arm and whack them in the head." – unknown What is a Team Goon? http://www.teamgoon.com My Personal page: http://teamgoon.i85.net FORMAL NOTICE: unsolicited commercial email will be read at a charge of $500 per item. Harvesting of my email address, and receipt of such email shall be considered to constitute acceptance of contract, and will be billed immediately.

Response:

i only recently joined this newsgroup so i dont have many older posts

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Don’t think that I am a moron. >"should I put a small block in it, if I can get one >in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van" >I was joking. > Did you read the older posts? I did just that. Twice. > One was originally a V6, and the other was originally a 4 cyl. > "It’s a crazy world, have fun with it." > -Jerry Springer > "Remember, when someone annoys you that it takes 42 muscles to frown, > but it only takes 4 muscles to extend your arm and whack them in the > head." – unknown > What is a Team Goon? > http://www.teamgoon.com > My Personal page: > http://teamgoon.i85.net > FORMAL NOTICE: unsolicited commercial email will be read at a charge of > $500 per item. Harvesting of my email address, and receipt of such email > shall be considered to constitute acceptance of contract, and will be > billed immediately.

Response:

my mom has a 93 Astro with 135k and the service engine soon light comes on sometimes (when I floor it) and it smokes a little when you start it but that is because of worn valve seals it has had problems with the serpentine belt going bad and it also has a problem when it is warm and you turn it off and when you come back to drive it again it wont come out of park unless you let it cool off for 10 to 30 minutes and one time it took more than an hour before it would work. is it time for a rebuild? or should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van                                                                     KRAMER Kramer’s 350 S-10 www.orangekitty.com/350s-10 The V-8 S-series WebRing http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=V8S10&list AIM: KRAMER4583

Response:

>did you pull the codes?  what does the engine say it is?

Funny how people are running out to replace the engine before using a paperclip to listen to what the computer has to say to begin with, huh? — Mark – Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Chevy Astro / GMC Safari Message Board! Click Below! http://pub37.ezboard.com/bchevyastroandgmcsafari

Response:

Isn’t it fresh that if anyone goes out to get a Tach/dwell/Voltmeter from Sears how complicated the GM HEI/Diagnostic adapters or even that Ford coil clip look. I know, not as complicated as a paperclip, but that’s something to try on an unsuspecting parts boy next time…..

Response:

Don’t think that I am a moron. "should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van" I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them.  I may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing. As for the code scan thing, I have never worked on  anything this new before and didn’t know of this method of diagnosis. Thanks for your help

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my mom has a 93 Astro with 135k and the service engine soon light comes on > sometimes (when I floor it) and it smokes a little when you start it but > that is because of worn valve seals it has had problems with the serpentine > belt going bad and it also has a problem when it is warm and you turn it off > and when you come back to drive it again it wont come out of park unless you > let it cool off for 10 to 30 minutes and one time it took more than an hour > before it would work. > is it time for a rebuild? or should I put a small block in it, if I can get > one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van >                                                                     KRAMER > Kramer’s 350 S-10 > www.orangekitty.com/350s-10 > The V-8 S-series WebRing > http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=V8S10&list > AIM: KRAMER4583

Response:

It was too late to try the codes but I will do it on Thursday

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don’t think that I am a moron. > "should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it > should fit in an Astro van" > I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into > cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them.  I > may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing. > As for the code scan thing, I have never worked on  anything this new before > and didn’t know of this method of diagnosis. Thanks for your help > my mom has a 93 Astro with 135k and the service engine soon light comes on > sometimes (when I floor it) and it smokes a little when you start it but > that is because of worn valve seals it has had problems with the > serpentine > belt going bad and it also has a problem when it is warm and you turn it > off > and when you come back to drive it again it wont come out of park unless > you > let it cool off for 10 to 30 minutes and one time it took more than an > hour > before it would work. > is it time for a rebuild? or should I put a small block in it, if I can > get > one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van KRAMER > Kramer’s 350 S-10 > www.orangekitty.com/350s-10 > The V-8 S-series WebRing > http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=V8S10&list > AIM: KRAMER4583

Response:

>Don’t think that I am a moron. >"should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it >should fit in an Astro van" >I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into >cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them.  I >may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing.

Actually, a 350 will drop into any V6 (Non AWD) Astro/Safari quite easilly…. But anyways… — Mark – Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Chevy Astro / GMC Safari Message Board! Click Below! http://pub37.ezboard.com/bchevyastroandgmcsafari

Response:

i am going to get the codes but where do they show when you do it i dont have digital gauges and i have no idea where the number would show

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Don’t think that I am a moron. >"should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it >should fit in an Astro van" >I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into >cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them. I >may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing. > Actually, a 350 will drop into any V6 (Non AWD) Astro/Safari quite > easilly…. > But anyways… > — > Mark – Oshawa, Ontario, Canada > Chevy Astro / GMC Safari Message Board! Click Below! > http://pub37.ezboard.com/bchevyastroandgmcsafari

Response:

your website doesnt work, cannot find server

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don’t think that I am a moron. > "should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it > should fit in an Astro van" > I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into > cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them.  I > may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing. > As for the code scan thing, I have never worked on  anything this new before > and didn’t know of this method of diagnosis. Thanks for your help > my mom has a 93 Astro with 135k and the service engine soon light comes on > sometimes (when I floor it) and it smokes a little when you start it but > that is because of worn valve seals it has had problems with the > serpentine > belt going bad and it also has a problem when it is warm and you turn it > off > and when you come back to drive it again it wont come out of park unless > you > let it cool off for 10 to 30 minutes and one time it took more than an > hour > before it would work. > is it time for a rebuild? or should I put a small block in it, if I can > get > one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van KRAMER > Kramer’s 350 S-10 > www.orangekitty.com/350s-10 > The V-8 S-series WebRing > http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=V8S10&list > AIM: KRAMER4583

Response:

The server is down, so check back on monday or tuesday

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> your website doesnt work, cannot find server > Don’t think that I am a moron. > "should I put a small block in it, if I can get one in an S-10 then it > should fit in an Astro van" > I was joking.  As you can see by my web page at the bottom, I am into > cramming larger engines into vehicles that weren’t made to accept them. I > may do that if my parents buy a replacement for this thing. > As for the code scan thing, I have never worked on  anything this new > before > and didn’t know of this method of diagnosis. Thanks for your help > > my mom has a 93 Astro with 135k and the service engine soon light comes > on > > sometimes (when I floor it) and it smokes a little when you start it but > > that is because of worn valve seals it has had problems with the > serpentine > > belt going bad and it also has a problem when it is warm and you turn it > off > > and when you come back to drive it again it wont come out of park unless > you > > let it cool off for 10 to 30 minutes and one time it took more than an > hour > > before it would work. > > is it time for a rebuild? or should I put a small block in it, if I can > get > > one in an S-10 then it should fit in an Astro van > KRAMER > > Kramer’s 350 S-10 > > www.orangekitty.com/350s-10 > > The V-8 S-series WebRing > > http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=V8S10&list > > AIM: KRAMER4583

Response:

1988 GMC 4×4 350 cold running problems

Question:

My computer was acting up and driving me nuts.  I in a fit of desperate rage started smacking it with a stick one day while driving down the road. (I had the glove box out to mess with it)   A GM tech told me afterwards it was probably dirty and I dislodged the dust.  I really felt like the master of my truck that day : )

Response:

not yet, but then it’s only got 220,000 miles on it . Jack – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Jack…do you have the same grief????? > Rene… >Please let all us 88 owners know. >Jack >> Hi Dave…I have ordered an after market chip.  I have like I say run >> out of options..and am willing to see if this cures my troubles. >> Thanks >> Rene >> >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >> >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >> >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

i have an 88 tbi 350 with same symptoms.  my ads chip didn’t fix.  i will be replacing o2sensor next.  speed shop tells me fuel pressure regulator could be another contributing factor.  also, oxygenated fuel seems to be part of the problem in cold weather.  if you are not already try using shell or amoco for couple of tanks, see if that helps.  good luck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >         Actually now that you mention that, it makes me wonder about > the prom…I have the GM factory manual, I followed the trouble > shooting tree to try to figure out this condition.I double checked > everything and was sure it was the computer…as was described in the > manual. Upon replacing the comp…the problem was there the next day. > I did not replace the prom tho…had to pry it out of the old one and > install it in the new one.  I have noticed that upon disconnecting the > battery for any reaon…that the truck does seem to run quite > nicely..even from cold…but the symptoms soon return the next time I > start it after letting it sit overnight. > Like I said…now I am wondering if the prom might be the problem…. > My next question is.. would I be better off to purchase an after > market chip…or would good ol’GM be the place to buy one????? > Thanks > Rene >Just  a thought from an "old" GM guy, ther were a lot of  tsb’s in the >middle 80’s about this type of condition on  tbi engines, they used to use >up dated ecu proms to correct warm up transition lean conditions, look into >this. > . >> > Hi …. >> > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of >> > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. >> > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes >> > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and >> > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle >> > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight >> > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as >> > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into >> > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at >> > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power >> > too. >> > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much >> > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new >> > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make >> > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make >> > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy >> > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his >> > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems >> > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new >> > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. >> > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty >> > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can >> > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me >> > pulling my hair out. >> > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems >> > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. >> > Thanks >> > Rene >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

    Don’t feel bad.. My cousin is a heavy duty mechanic as well. I ask him any questions about a car engine or such and he looks at me and says "I dunno.."  Seems there are a lot of differences between the two.           Cheers,                   Evan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene

Response:

Please let all us 88 owners know. Jack – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Dave…I have ordered an after market chip.  I have like I say run > out of options..and am willing to see if this cures my troubles. > Thanks > Rene >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Jack…do you have the same grief????? Rene… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Please let all us 88 owners know. >Jack > Hi Dave…I have ordered an after market chip.  I have like I say run > out of options..and am willing to see if this cures my troubles. > Thanks > Rene > >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Hi Dave…I have ordered an after market chip.  I have like I say run out of options..and am willing to see if this cures my troubles. Thanks Rene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Those old prom updates corrected many driveability woes,you might have >trouble getting the right one at this time, without a part number, and >availability, this is a problem. I would think, if all else is right with >the engine, an perf. aftermarket prom would work. > Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

        Actually now that you mention that, it makes me wonder about the prom…I have the GM factory manual, I followed the trouble shooting tree to try to figure out this condition.I double checked everything and was sure it was the computer…as was described in the manual. Upon replacing the comp…the problem was there the next day. I did not replace the prom tho…had to pry it out of the old one and install it in the new one.  I have noticed that upon disconnecting the battery for any reaon…that the truck does seem to run quite nicely..even from cold…but the symptoms soon return the next time I start it after letting it sit overnight. Like I said…now I am wondering if the prom might be the problem…. My next question is.. would I be better off to purchase an after market chip…or would good ol’GM be the place to buy one????? Thanks Rene >Just  a thought from an "old" GM guy, ther were a lot of  tsb’s in the >middle 80’s about this type of condition on  tbi engines, they used to use >up dated ecu proms to correct warm up transition lean conditions, look into >this.

. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi …. > > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > > too. > > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > > pulling my hair out. > > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > > Thanks > > Rene >—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– >http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >—–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Those old prom updates corrected many driveability woes,you might have trouble getting the right one at this time, without a part number, and availability, this is a problem. I would think, if all else is right with the engine, an perf. aftermarket prom would work.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

What would cause this on a carburated motor?  Thats my 85 to a tee.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene

Response:

Just  a thought from an "old" GM guy, ther were a lot of  tsb’s in the middle 80’s about this type of condition on  tbi engines, they used to use up dated ecu proms to correct warm up transition lean conditions, look into this.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What would cause this on a carburated motor?  Thats my 85 to a tee. > Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Hi Dean…thanks for your reply…..I have already done just what you have said….the engine produces lots of vacuum and I have looked for vacuum leaks in the past……the engine does not have the characteristic idle associated with a vacuum leak….does run quite hunt when started cold…..thats like my trouble but just when it goes from the rich open loop mode to the closed loop mode when the computer takes over. Ahhhh,,,,yes..diesel injector pumps are a bit pricey alrighty…..I know very few people who have had problems with them….whether they be on pickups or a 550 hp Cat engine…and the ones that I do know who have had troubles are their own worst enemies when it comes to keeping their fuel clean and filters changed on a regular basis….:))) Rene…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Rene’, >Next time it happens, squirt some carb cleaner right down the TBI throat. >If the idle improves, I’d be looking for a vacuum leak. The TBI gasket at >the manifold and any vacuum line is suspect. Again squirt carb cleaner at >them while the engine is running rough; you should find the leak. Also >check the vacuum at idle. It should be something like 17-21 and very >smooth. The service manual has the spec. An irregular or very low vacuum >usually means a vacuum leak. >Yeah, I know, diesels don’t have to worry about this silliness. But then >gas engines don’t have thousand dollar plus injector pumps either! >Good luck! >Dean > Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene

Response:

Rene’, You most likely did this but O2 sensor and throttle position sensor were also changed? Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Dean…thanks for your reply…..I have already done just what you > have said….the engine produces lots of vacuum and I have looked for > vacuum leaks in the past……the engine does not have the > characteristic idle associated with a vacuum leak….does run quite > hunt when started cold…..thats like my trouble but just when it goes > from the rich open loop mode to the closed loop mode when the computer > takes over. > Ahhhh,,,,yes..diesel injector pumps are a bit pricey alrighty…..I > know very few people who have had problems with them….whether they > be on pickups or a 550 hp Cat engine…and the ones that I do know who > have had troubles are their own worst enemies when it comes to keeping > their fuel clean and filters changed on a regular basis….:))) > Rene…. >Rene’, >Next time it happens, squirt some carb cleaner right down the TBI throat. >If the idle improves, I’d be looking for a vacuum leak. The TBI gasket at >the manifold and any vacuum line is suspect. Again squirt carb cleaner at >them while the engine is running rough; you should find the leak. Also >check the vacuum at idle. It should be something like 17-21 and very >smooth. The service manual has the spec. An irregular or very low vacuum >usually means a vacuum leak. >Yeah, I know, diesels don’t have to worry about this silliness. But then >gas engines don’t have thousand dollar plus injector pumps either! >Good luck! >Dean >> Hi …. >> My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of >> shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. >> Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes >> has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and >> goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle >> goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight >> bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as >> you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into >> it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at >> proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power >> too. >> I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much >> play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new >> module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make >> sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make >> sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy >> at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his >> Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems >> I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new >> Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. >> The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty >> mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can >> make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me >> pulling my hair out. >> I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems >> like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. >> Thanks >> Rene

Response:

Rene’, Next time it happens, squirt some carb cleaner right down the TBI throat. If the idle improves, I’d be looking for a vacuum leak. The TBI gasket at the manifold and any vacuum line is suspect. Again squirt carb cleaner at them while the engine is running rough; you should find the leak. Also check the vacuum at idle. It should be something like 17-21 and very smooth. The service manual has the spec. An irregular or very low vacuum usually means a vacuum leak. Yeah, I know, diesels don’t have to worry about this silliness. But then gas engines don’t have thousand dollar plus injector pumps either! Good luck! Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi …. > My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of > shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. > Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes > has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and > goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle > goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight > bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as > you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into > it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at > proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power > too. > I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much > play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new > module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make > sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make > sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy > at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his > Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems > I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new > Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed. > The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty > mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can > make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me > pulling my hair out. > I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems > like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. > Thanks > Rene

Response:

Hi …. My pickup is getting close to being torched….runs like a piece of shit when its cold. Has been like this since I bought it 4 years ago. Symptoms….starts fine…seems to fast idle as it should…sometimes has a bit of a miss sometimes not….once it starts to warm up and goes into closed loop mode and drops off fast idle…the engine idle goes stupid…and sometime will actually quit.  Seems to have a slight bit of hesitation or bogg when driving it when its cold…pauses as you apply throttle from a stop sign..but once you put your foot into it off it goes….all this shit goes on till its warmed up and once at proper operating temp seems to run just fine. Has all kinds of power too. I have replace the tbi with a new one…throttle shaft had too much play on the old one. I have replaced every sensor on the engine…new module….and pick up coil…..I have even checked the iac to make sure its working fine on the new tbi.  I have checked the egr to make sure it is sealing properly.   Engine has never set a code and a buddy at a local auto repair shop has checked out everything with his Snap-on scanner and it does not show any problems I replaced the original engine 2 years ago with a spanking brand new Goodwrench engine and the troubles still followed.   The embarassing part of the whole deal is that I am a heavy duty mechanic and just can’t seem to figure this flippin thing out….I can make a diesel engine purr like a kitten…but this gas engine has me pulling my hair out. I am hoping that someone on here has had or heard of similar problems like this…..any help would be greatly appreciated…. Thanks Rene

Response:

Can anyone help with Ecm Prom ID

Question:

I just changed the engine in my 87 Chev 4×4, Now Its sluggish and I get a code 43. The scanner says to check for upgraded Prom ( amoung other things that test good) . A service book I checked showed by P/N that the ecm was the same for a 305 cid and a 350 cid but the proms were different , and it listed lots of prom numbers. The parts stores including GM say I need the numbers off the original prom I require . Can anyone tell me what prom number I would need for a 87 350 cid with TBI and a  turbo 400  W/O lockup. Thanks Al

Response:

You’re sure the knock sensor, and the ESC module (if it has one) are connected properly? What is probably happening is that it is getting a continuous knock signal making it constantly retard the spark timing, which sets the trouble code, and also causes it to be sluggish because of the retarded timing. — Robert Hancock      Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just changed the engine in my 87 Chev 4×4, Now Its sluggish and I > get a code 43. The scanner says to check for upgraded Prom ( amoung > other things that test good) . A service book I checked showed by P/N > that the ecm was the same for a 305 cid and a 350 cid but the proms > were different , and it listed lots of prom numbers. The parts stores > including GM say I need the numbers off the original prom I require . > Can anyone tell me what prom number I would need for a 87 350 cid with > TBI and a  turbo 400  W/O lockup. > Thanks > Al

Response:

What year model was your new motor?  I ran into a problem similar to that. It seems the cams were different enough to confuse the ECM.  After a little trial and error adjusting the timing, we got it almost right.  Would still set off code 43 if you used premium fuel. RJ 1986 GMC Jimmy with a 1988 engine. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I just changed the engine in my 87 Chev 4×4, Now Its sluggish and I >get a code 43. The scanner says to check for upgraded Prom ( amoung >other things that test good) . A service book I checked showed by P/N >that the ecm was the same for a 305 cid and a 350 cid but the proms >were different , and it listed lots of prom numbers. The parts stores >including GM say I need the numbers off the original prom I require . >Can anyone tell me what prom number I would need for a 87 350 cid with >TBI and a  turbo 400  W/O lockup. >Thanks >Al

Response:

Hi and thanks for replying. I had the truck on one of those snap-on scanners, If I tapped on the block beside the knock sennsor the scanner showed the timing was retarding , so the knock sensor works, I swapped out the esc module because I had a spare , it didn’t help. The new motor was out of a 91 cube van , The original 305 was I believe type H , and the new 350 is type K . I thought ok. the scanner says prom try it and carry on from there. I just don’t no exactly what prom I need. Al.

Response:

> Hi and thanks for replying. > I had the truck on one of those snap-on scanners, If I tapped on the > block beside the knock sennsor the scanner showed the timing was > retarding , so the knock sensor works, I swapped out the esc module > because I had a spare , it didn’t help. > The new motor was out of a 91 cube van , The original 305 was I > believe type H , and the new 350 is type K . > I thought ok. the scanner says prom try it and carry on from there. > I just don’t no exactly what prom I need. > Al.

It appears that you were using a Snap-On scanner with the trouble shooter cartridge, along with the trouble shooter cartridge there should have been a Prom Cross-reference book.  Use the scanner to extract the prom code (data line prom ID), look it up under the model year and prom ID, it should give the replacement prom number. — Neil Nelson Send Lawyers Guns and Money, The shit has hit the fan.  WZ It’s good to be back!

Response:

Transmission Blows Fluid

Question:

I remember another post in this NG about the same problem, fluid coming from the dipstick. That poster found the problem to be his/her thermostat if I remember correctly. Seems the engine temp was going a little over 210 degrees and caused the transmission to run hot. Hope this helps. AL

Response:

Is the fluid on the stick at all foamy, burned smelling, or milky? Is it coming from the dipstick tube? Is the fluid level correct? Power washed the tranny cooler and radiator fins lately? With 6 inches, it should be pretty easy to wash the underbelly and crawl underneath after you drive it awhile.  Look for the drip and follow it up to the wet spot? I have seen engine overheating on Firebirds etc. due to missing air dams broken off by parking over curbs.  The missing air dam shouldn’t be a problem on the truck as long as the radiator cowl/fan shroud is in place. Good Luck, Preston > I just bought a 1997 GMC Yukon 4X4 with a 6′ Pro-Comp Suspension Lift…… > My problem is that when the transmission gets hot, it blows fluid from > somewhere near the right front fender well….. The transmission shop keeps > telling me that everything is fine…… the plastic air dam on the front > bumper is missing (will that make it overheat) has anyone had this > problem????? > Dennis Gann

Before you buy.

Response:

I just bought a 1997 GMC Yukon 4X4 with a 6′ Pro-Comp Suspension Lift…… My problem is that when the transmission gets hot, it blows fluid from somewhere near the right front fender well….. The transmission shop keeps telling me that everything is fine…… the plastic air dam on the front bumper is missing (will that make it overheat) has anyone had this problem????? Dennis Gann

Response:

front dual shocks??????

Question:

does anyone know if they make a dual shock system for an 88 jimmy full-size with leaf springs.  ive looked all over and all i can seem to find is IFS systems.  all help is greatly appreciated. thanks, jaybad 1988 Jimmy full-size/350ci/4in lift/33×12.5/4.56 gears

Response:

my 88 suburban had dual shocks  same frame configuration try the dealer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >does anyone know if they make a dual shock system for an 88 jimmy full-size >with leaf springs.  ive looked all over and all i can seem to find is IFS >systems.  all help is greatly appreciated. >thanks, >jaybad >1988 Jimmy full-size/350ci/4in lift/33×12.5/4.56 gears

Response:

>does anyone know if they make a dual shock system for an 88 jimmy full-size >with leaf springs.  ive looked all over and all i can seem to find is IFS >systems.  all help is greatly appreciated. >thanks, >jaybad >1988 Jimmy full-size/350ci/4in lift/33×12.5/4.56 gears

Rancho makes a kit, Rugged Trail makes a kit, Superlift makes a kit…..Explorer Pro Comp makes a kit…… and yes, even GM offered them stock. The kits for Suburbans, Pick ups, and Blazers are all the same for 73 -87 (up to 91 for Blazers/Jimmy & Burbans). ~Chuck www.chuckschevytruckpages.com Check out my 73-87 Chevy Truck pages, all C/K models, lots of tech.Links. www.chuckschevytruckpages.com <A HREF="http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com">Chuck’s Chevy Truck Pages</A>

Response:

Advice wanted on shocks…

Question:

Rancho 9000 shocks w/ the optional compressor and switch kit is what you want… in cab adjustable settings for load/ ride.  Go to Gresham off-road for  a good deal in Portland. Dave Fly-N-Hi  83 Chevy 550hp BB 16" National spring lift 44" TSL’s "if it isn’t chrome take it home" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I have a ‘97 GMC Suburban 1500 4×4, and I tow a 5,200 lb trailer with it. I > need to get new shocks for it, and am looking to you guys for advice and > recommendations. (Brand, type, etc.) Obviously I want a decent ride (the > truck is completely stock), but "stiff" enough for towing.  I have heard > that Gabriels and Edelbrocks are good, but have never bought any.  Any > suggestions? > Thanks in advance, > Tony in Portland, OR > 97 GMC Suburban 4×4 > 99 Terry 824Z

Response:

Hi all, I have a ‘97 GMC Suburban 1500 4×4, and I tow a 5,200 lb trailer with it.  I need to get new shocks for it, and am looking to you guys for advice and recommendations. (Brand, type, etc.) Obviously I want a decent ride (the truck is completely stock), but "stiff" enough for towing.  I have heard that Gabriels and Edelbrocks are good, but have never bought any.  Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Tony in Portland, OR 97 GMC Suburban 4×4 99 Terry 824Z

Response:

While mine is not the exact same application, I have had wonderful luck with the Gabriel Shocks.  I put them on my truck (broke the damn shock post getting it off…another story) and have been extremely pleased with their performance, especially for the price.  They replaced some worn out Ranchos put on by the previous owner.  I went with the offroad orientated ones as they are stiffer for when I put a bunch of stuff in the back of the truck.  It usually has 300-500lbs of stuff rattling around back there, and the shocks aren’t compressed at all from it. Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I have a ‘97 GMC Suburban 1500 4×4, and I tow a 5,200 lb trailer with it.  I > need to get new shocks for it, and am looking to you guys for advice and > recommendations. (Brand, type, etc.) Obviously I want a decent ride (the > truck is completely stock), but "stiff" enough for towing.  I have heard > that Gabriels and Edelbrocks are good, but have never bought any. Any > suggestions? > Thanks in advance, > Tony in Portland, OR > 97 GMC Suburban 4×4 > 99 Terry 824Z

Response: