Wiper Board: Walk-in warranty exchange?
Question:
I have a 96, not sure the years affected. The 2 notes I’ve copied below are: 1. my thanks letter to the author of the how-to-fix instructions. 2. the how-to-fix instructions (I chose to re-solder it myself – good result). Elliott Newsgroups: alt.trucks.chevy, alt.autos.4×4.chevy-trucks Thanks Jonathan, It took 1/2 hour since I lost time looking for a dropped screw, and the board was a little hard to get to (in an 96 Sonoma) cause another harness goes right in fron of it. The circuit board is sooooo much easier to remove/repair than it would have been to replace the whole wiper motor assembly. 3 screws in the cover, and some messing around with the other harness to gain access. The board took lots of light wiggling to come free but did. There was an obviously cold-solder-joint on the board closest to the connector. I also cleaned a pair of contacts on the back side that had some gunk on them. It went back in easy and is working fine. Hoping this is a total fix – previously I had to lift the hood and press on the connector of the wiper-assembly to get the wipers started (it happened about 1 time in 3 rains, and sometimes while driving). Being an electrical engineer I would say that this is a manufacturing problem, not a design problem. Cold solder joints are commen when the wave-solder machines aren’t warm enough or the pre-bake isn’t warm enough. Bing it happened to the 1 contact on the end seems indicitive of the manufacturing. The connector does groove-fit so torque isn’t direct onto the board (though some does get there as obviously I was pressing on it to get them going). Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Mid-90’s Chevy and GMC Wiper Module Circuit Board > Replacement and/or Repair Procedures > The fault in this circuit board is quite common and is attributed to bad > solder joints from either design error or manufacturing flaw. Symptoms > which indicate a bad circuit board include (but are not limited to): wipers > will not work or work intermittently; wipers stop working for no apparent > reason, maybe even in mid-stroke; wiper function is erratic, with no delay > feature, delay is the same regardless of setting, or no low- or high-speed > setting; wipers may start to work if you tap on the wiper module or move the > electrical connector. > You have a choice of either Repairing your existing circuit board yourself, > or Replacing it. > Replacement – You have at least three options available to you, depending on > your relationship with your dealer and how much of a stink you want to put > up. > 1. Pay for the replacement part plus the labor to have the dealer install it > (~$50 for the part plus ? for labor. Most expensive, least work). > 2. Pay for the replacement part and install it yourself (~$50 for the part, > your labor is free. Takes about 15 minutes.). > 3. Have the part replaced under recall if applicable (Free, minus the time > your truck will be in the shop. Least expensive, most work.). > 4. (Repair it yourself – Instructions below after Replacement) > Option #1 is very straightforward, just go down to your local dealer and > have him do the work and pay the bill when he is finished. You don’t even > have to read any further. > Option #2 is also very straightforward. Have the parts department research > the correct part number for your model year circuit board, purchase the part > from them and install it. The wiper module is a small 2"x 4" black box > attatched somewhere near the top of the firewall on the driver’s side. It > has the wiper motor mounted to it, and an electrical connector plugged into > the end. Remove the electrical connector first, and using a Torx (6-pointed > star) driver, remove the cover from the module. The circuit board sits > directly underneath the cover and will be coated with grease. Gently pry > the circuit board out of the module, do a little spring cleaning inside the > case and add a dab of grease to the drive gears if needed. Install the new > circuit board in the same manner as the old one was. Clean the inside of > the cover and reinstall with the same Torx head screws. > Option #3 gets a little involved. First you must find a recall notice for > your truck. Start by checking on the internet at www.nhtsa.gov and drill > down thru the links for recalls to determine if your truck is actually > listed (there are other sites to check as well). Just because your truck > may not be listed doesn’t mean it’s not under recall. It could easily > depend on how your truck is described. For example, a 1995 Chevrolet C1500 > Pick-up could easily be listed as a C1500, 1500, 1500-3500, C-Series, C/K > Series, Chevrolet Truck, GM Truck, C10 (the old designation), etc. It would > pay to look under as many designations as you can think of before giving up. > If you find your truck as listed, so much the better. Print out a copy of > the recall and wave it at your dealer’s service manager and they should fix > it No Questions Asked. If they still refuse, contact Chevrolet/GMC Customer > Assistance and/or the NHTSA’s hotline (both are toll-free and listed on > their respective web sites). > If you do not find your truck specifically listed, all hope is not yet lost. > Search for the same truck under a different model year, or a substantially > similar vehicle which does have a recall (For example, the Chevy Blazer > shares the same wiper components as the Chevy S-10 and Astro, the GMC Jimmy, > Safari and Sonoma, the Olds Bravada, etc.). Print out a copy of the recall > for the other vehicle and go to your dealer’s parts department. Have them > search for the part number of the circuit board for the recalled vehicle, > then for the part number for your truck. Odds are in your favor that they > will both be exactly the same. Hence, your wiper module is one of the > faulty ones being recalled and should be covered but your truck may have > been left off the recall list. Take this info to the service manager and > depending on how much he wants to keep you as a customer, he will find a way > to have the board replaced under the recall. If not, then you still have > options #1 and #2 above, or you could fix your existing board yourself. > Repair – You can easily repair your existing board if you know how to turn a > screwdriver and know which end of a soldering gun to hold. If you haven’t > mastered either of these skills, then have someone else do the job for you. > Step 1 – Locate the wiper module and remove the circuit board as described > in Option #2 above. Be VERY careful removing the circuit board. Do not > crack, bend or break it or you’re outta luck and will have to buy a new one. > The circuit board is approx. 2"x 4" and has two distinct sides. The top is > the side where all the components live, especially the large black socket > for the electrical connector (more on that later). The bottom is where all > the lead wires from the electrical components poke thru the board and are > soldered to the printed circuit. Carefully wipe the excess grease off the > board. > Step 2 – The fault in the board is caused by bad solder joints holding the > large socket onto the printed circuit. If the board itself is cracked or > broken, then you will have to get a new one. Carefully inspect the tiny > mounds of solder underneath the large socket on the bottom of the board. > Each drop of solder connects a lead wire from the socket to the printed > circuit. A bad solder joint may look like it has a tiny circle in the drop > of solder around the wire end, a chip or crack in the little mound of > solder, or it may be too small to see. At this point you will need a > soldering gun and solder, and a steady hand. > Step 3 – Set your circuit board bottom side up so you can see the solder > joints for the socket onto the printed circuit. Heat up your soldering gun > and apply just a tiny drop of solder to the tip. Place the hot tip with the > melted solder directly onto the existing solder joint in question just long > enough until the gun melts the existing solder and the new solder mixes in > with it. Remove the gun from the work and allow to cool. Remelting the > original solder and adding some extra should repair the joint and make > continuity again and reinforce it. Repeat for all the solder joints in > question, and/or all the solder joints for the socket. Don’t overheat your > work, or solder may run down and create a short to another circuit, or you > may unknowingly fry a component on the other side of the board. > Step 4 – Allow everything to cool, then reinstall the board as listed in > Option #2 above. > Good luck – Jonathan > — > Acta Non Verba – Deeds Not Words > Lieutenant Jonathan Race, EMS Supervisor > Orange County (FL) Fire-Rescue Department > I’d like to hear these instructions!!! I figured theres an FAQ for this > cause its so famous a problem…Haven’t been able to find it! can you > repost? > b > I don’t know who’s telling you that the recall is over, but I recently > received a recall letter for my ‘95 about 2 months ago and just had it > done > last week, no questions asked. FYI, the new boards are different – > they’re > thicker, which is why they also replace the cover (it has a slighltly > deeper > groove to accomodate the thicker circuit board). However, just in case > you > don’t get any satisfaction from your dealer, I will also repost my > nearly-famous instructions for repairing your existing circuit board. > Please remember, however, that repairing the damage doesn’t eliminate the > original cause but it is quite simple and has
… read more »
Response:
If you’ve been following the many discussions about the chronic Chevy/GMC wiper problems, then I hate to disappoint you. Although you may be experiencing similar difficulties, the wiper circuitry and mechanism is quite different in your ‘03 than in the previous 88-99 body style. In fact, yours is the first complaint I’ve heard from anyone who has the current style, although the trucks from the mid to late 90’s were notorious. If you’ve had two Fords prior to your current truck, then I’m surprised that you didn’t have problems with the fuel tank filler and vent, the ignition switch or the headlight switch – Chronic issues with Fords in the 90’s. Cheers – Jonathan — Acta Non Verba – Deeds Not Words Lieutenant Jonathan Race, EMS Supervisor Orange County (FL) Fire-Rescue Department
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hummmmmm, > I have a `03 Silverado, 23k and just 12 months old. > Last month the wiper when on delay would go to slow speed and not turn off, but > I could change it to high speed and low speed, but not delay and not off. > Turn the igntion off, start the truck and they would be fine again, delay would > work, etc until about 5 minutes then the same scenario would start over. > Dealer said I`d have to leave it for a day, they`d look into it. Well last > night it finally stuck, got off work, hit the mist wipe and they wouldnt turn > off. Got home, got up next morning, started truck, wipers on and wouldnt turn > off. No delay but would work high or low speed. > Went to the dealer, after 20 minutes they pulled the fuse inside the dash, > wipers stopped. > I`m glad I researched this, didnt take long either. Now armed with the goodies, > I`ll go back to them and demand a new replacement along with new wiper blades. > I owned 2 Fords before this Chevy, no problems with either one and the last one > had 118 k on it. This Chevys u-joints clunk often, I`m told thats usual, > replaced the latch mechanism on Pass-door, it fell of and couldnt open the hold. > I like the style, the 5 liter, xtend cab, wheels and torque. > Just hoping these little piss but problems are the only ones that i`ll have to > deal with.
Response:
I’d like to hear these instructions!!! I figured theres an FAQ for this cause its so famous a problem…Haven’t been able to find it! can you repost? b
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t know who’s telling you that the recall is over, but I recently > received a recall letter for my ‘95 about 2 months ago and just had it done > last week, no questions asked. FYI, the new boards are different – they’re > thicker, which is why they also replace the cover (it has a slighltly deeper > groove to accomodate the thicker circuit board). However, just in case you > don’t get any satisfaction from your dealer, I will also repost my > nearly-famous instructions for repairing your existing circuit board. > Please remember, however, that repairing the damage doesn’t eliminate the > original cause but it is quite simple and has worked very well for a lot of > folks in this and other newsgroups. > Cheers – Jonathan > — > Acta Non Verba – Deeds Not Words > Lieutenant Jonathan Race, EMS Supervisor > Orange County (FL) Fire-Rescue Department > Mid-90’s Chevy and GMC Wiper Module Circuit Board > Replacement and/or Repair Procedures > The fault in this circuit board is quite common and is attributed to bad > solder joints from either design error or manufacturing flaw. Symptoms > which indicate a bad circuit board include (but are not limited to): wipers > will not work or work intermittently; wipers stop working for no apparent > reason, maybe even in mid-stroke; wiper function is erratic, with no delay > feature, delay is the same regardless of setting, or no low- or high-speed > setting; wipers may start to work if you tap on the wiper module or move the > electrical connector. > You have a choice of either Repairing your existing circuit board yourself, > or Replacing it. > Replacement – You have at least three options available to you, depending on > your relationship with your dealer and how much of a stink you want to put > up. > 1. Pay for the replacement part plus the labor to have the dealer install it > (~$50 for the part plus ? for labor. Most expensive, least work). > 2. Pay for the replacement part and install it yourself (~$50 for the part, > your labor is free. Takes about 15 minutes.). > 3. Have the part replaced under recall if applicable (Free, minus the time > your truck will be in the shop. Least expensive, most work.). > 4. (Repair it yourself – Instructions below after Replacement) > Option #1 is very straightforward, just go down to your local dealer and > have him do the work and pay the bill when he is finished. You don’t even > have to read any further. > Option #2 is also very straightforward. Have the parts department research > the correct part number for your model year circuit board, purchase the part > from them and install it. The wiper module is a small 2"x 4" black box > attatched somewhere near the top of the firewall on the driver’s side. It > has the wiper motor mounted to it, and an electrical connector plugged into > the end. Remove the electrical connector first, and using a Torx (6-pointed > star) driver, remove the cover from the module. The circuit board sits > directly underneath the cover and will be coated with grease. Gently pry > the circuit board out of the module, do a little spring cleaning inside the > case and add a dab of grease to the drive gears if needed. Install the new > circuit board in the same manner as the old one was. Clean the inside of > the cover and reinstall with the same Torx head screws. > Option #3 gets a little involved. First you must find a recall notice for > your truck. Start by checking on the internet at www.nhtsa.gov and drill > down thru the links for recalls to determine if your truck is actually > listed (there are other sites to check as well). Just because your truck > may not be listed doesn’t mean it’s not under recall. It could easily > depend on how your truck is described. For example, a 1995 Chevrolet C1500 > Pick-up could easily be listed as a C1500, 1500, 1500-3500, C-Series, C/K > Series, Chevrolet Truck, GM Truck, C10 (the old designation), etc. It would > pay to look under as many designations as you can think of before giving up. > If you find your truck as listed, so much the better. Print out a copy of > the recall and wave it at your dealer’s service manager and they should fix > it No Questions Asked. If they still refuse, contact Chevrolet/GMC Customer > Assistance and/or the NHTSA’s hotline (both are toll-free and listed on > their respective web sites). > If you do not find your truck specifically listed, all hope is not yet lost. > Search for the same truck under a different model year, or a substantially > similar vehicle which does have a recall (For example, the Chevy Blazer > shares the same wiper components as the Chevy S-10 and Astro, the GMC Jimmy, > Safari and Sonoma, the Olds Bravada, etc.). Print out a copy of the recall > for the other vehicle and go to your dealer’s parts department. Have them > search for the part number of the circuit board for the recalled vehicle, > then for the part number for your truck. Odds are in your favor that they > will both be exactly the same. Hence, your wiper module is one of the > faulty ones being recalled and should be covered but your truck may have > been left off the recall list. Take this info to the service manager and > depending on how much he wants to keep you as a customer, he will find a way > to have the board replaced under the recall. If not, then you still have > options #1 and #2 above, or you could fix your existing board yourself. > Repair – You can easily repair your existing board if you know how to turn a > screwdriver and know which end of a soldering gun to hold. If you haven’t > mastered either of these skills, then have someone else do the job for you. > Step 1 – Locate the wiper module and remove the circuit board as described > in Option #2 above. Be VERY careful removing the circuit board. Do not > crack, bend or break it or you’re outta luck and will have to buy a new one. > The circuit board is approx. 2"x 4" and has two distinct sides. The top is > the side where all the components live, especially the large black socket > for the electrical connector (more on that later). The bottom is where all > the lead wires from the electrical components poke thru the board and are > soldered to the printed circuit. Carefully wipe the excess grease off the > board. > Step 2 – The fault in the board is caused by bad solder joints holding the > large socket onto the printed circuit. If the board itself is cracked or > broken, then you will have to get a new one. Carefully inspect the tiny > mounds of solder underneath the large socket on the bottom of the board. > Each drop of solder connects a lead wire from the socket to the printed > circuit. A bad solder joint may look like it has a tiny circle in the drop > of solder around the wire end, a chip or crack in the little mound of > solder, or it may be too small to see. At this point you will need a > soldering gun and solder, and a steady hand. > Step 3 – Set your circuit board bottom side up so you can see the solder > joints for the socket onto the printed circuit. Heat up your soldering gun > and apply just a tiny drop of solder to the tip. Place the hot tip with the > melted solder directly onto the existing solder joint in question just long > enough until the gun melts the existing solder and the new solder mixes in > with it. Remove the gun from the work and allow to cool. Remelting the > original solder and adding some extra should repair the joint and make > continuity again and reinforce it. Repeat for all the solder joints in > question, and/or all the solder joints for the socket. Don’t overheat your > work, or solder may run down and create a short to another circuit, or you > may unknowingly fry a component on the other side of the board. > Step 4 – Allow everything to cool, then reinstall the board as listed in > Option #2 above. > Good luck – Jonathan > Pete, > I was just going to post a new topic on this one and I saw yours. My ‘95 > was not giving me trouble, but I thought that since there was a recall and > I > was eligible, I’d go in and get mine fixed before the recall was over. > After 4 months, mine is acting all funny. No more interval wipers and I > get > a double run every time I use the "mist" function. > Will they stand behind these things a second time? I agree about being > out > a truck for a day for a 5 minute job. I stood and waited the first time > and > it took him longer to get his tools than to put the new part in. > Snowman > > Mine has gone for the second time – this time I think it’s for good. > > If I get lucky and there’s a recall on the things (‘98 burb…) should I > be able > > to just yank the bad one myself and exchange it at the parts window? > > Seems like a PITA to lose the vehicle for a day if they have to do the > work… > > PeteCresswell
Response:
Hummmmmm, I have a `03 Silverado, 23k and just 12 months old. Last month the wiper when on delay would go to slow speed and not turn off, but I could change it to high speed and low speed, but not delay and not off. Turn the igntion off, start the truck and they would be fine again, delay would work, etc until about 5 minutes then the same scenario would start over. Dealer said I`d have to leave it for a day, they`d look into it. Well last night it finally stuck, got off work, hit the mist wipe and they wouldnt turn off. Got home, got up next morning, started truck, wipers on and wouldnt turn off. No delay but would work high or low speed. Went to the dealer, after 20 minutes they pulled the fuse inside the dash, wipers stopped. I`m glad I researched this, didnt take long either. Now armed with the goodies, I`ll go back to them and demand a new replacement along with new wiper blades. I owned 2 Fords before this Chevy, no problems with either one and the last one had 118 k on it. This Chevys u-joints clunk often, I`m told thats usual, replaced the latch mechanism on Pass-door, it fell of and couldnt open the I like the style, the 5 liter, xtend cab, wheels and torque. Just hoping these little piss but problems are the only ones that i`ll have to deal with.
Response:
Mine has gone for the second time – this time I think it’s for good. If I get lucky and there’s a recall on the things (‘98 burb…) should I be able to just yank the bad one myself and exchange it at the parts window? Seems like a PITA to lose the vehicle for a day if they have to do the work… PeteCresswell
Response:
Pete, I was just going to post a new topic on this one and I saw yours. My ‘95 was not giving me trouble, but I thought that since there was a recall and I was eligible, I’d go in and get mine fixed before the recall was over. After 4 months, mine is acting all funny. No more interval wipers and I get a double run every time I use the "mist" function. Will they stand behind these things a second time? I agree about being out a truck for a day for a 5 minute job. I stood and waited the first time and it took him longer to get his tools than to put the new part in. Snowman
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mine has gone for the second time – this time I think it’s for good. > If I get lucky and there’s a recall on the things (‘98 burb…) should I be able > to just yank the bad one myself and exchange it at the parts window? > Seems like a PITA to lose the vehicle for a day if they have to do the work… > PeteCresswell
Response:
Just checked with the dealer’s parts desk: 1) No recall/exchange for 98’s 2) When somebody buys the new board, they’re getting exactly the same board as the one that failed. Parts guy says GM hasn’t fixed it yet…. Which sounds funny to me given the number of people who’ve opined that it’s just faulty solder joints plus my own experience with the problem going away for awhile after I re-soldered three of the joints….
Response:
I don’t know who’s telling you that the recall is over, but I recently received a recall letter for my ‘95 about 2 months ago and just had it done last week, no questions asked. FYI, the new boards are different – they’re thicker, which is why they also replace the cover (it has a slighltly deeper groove to accomodate the thicker circuit board). However, just in case you don’t get any satisfaction from your dealer, I will also repost my nearly-famous instructions for repairing your existing circuit board. Please remember, however, that repairing the damage doesn’t eliminate the original cause but it is quite simple and has worked very well for a lot of folks in this and other newsgroups. Cheers – Jonathan — Acta Non Verba – Deeds Not Words Lieutenant Jonathan Race, EMS Supervisor Orange County (FL) Fire-Rescue Department Mid-90’s Chevy and GMC Wiper Module Circuit Board Replacement and/or Repair Procedures The fault in this circuit board is quite common and is attributed to bad solder joints from either design error or manufacturing flaw. Symptoms which indicate a bad circuit board include (but are not limited to): wipers will not work or work intermittently; wipers stop working for no apparent reason, maybe even in mid-stroke; wiper function is erratic, with no delay feature, delay is the same regardless of setting, or no low- or high-speed setting; wipers may start to work if you tap on the wiper module or move the electrical connector. You have a choice of either Repairing your existing circuit board yourself, or Replacing it. Replacement – You have at least three options available to you, depending on your relationship with your dealer and how much of a stink you want to put up. 1. Pay for the replacement part plus the labor to have the dealer install it (~$50 for the part plus ? for labor. Most expensive, least work). 2. Pay for the replacement part and install it yourself (~$50 for the part, your labor is free. Takes about 15 minutes.). 3. Have the part replaced under recall if applicable (Free, minus the time your truck will be in the shop. Least expensive, most work.). 4. (Repair it yourself – Instructions below after Replacement) Option #1 is very straightforward, just go down to your local dealer and have him do the work and pay the bill when he is finished. You don’t even have to read any further. Option #2 is also very straightforward. Have the parts department research the correct part number for your model year circuit board, purchase the part from them and install it. The wiper module is a small 2"x 4" black box attatched somewhere near the top of the firewall on the driver’s side. It has the wiper motor mounted to it, and an electrical connector plugged into the end. Remove the electrical connector first, and using a Torx (6-pointed star) driver, remove the cover from the module. The circuit board sits directly underneath the cover and will be coated with grease. Gently pry the circuit board out of the module, do a little spring cleaning inside the case and add a dab of grease to the drive gears if needed. Install the new circuit board in the same manner as the old one was. Clean the inside of the cover and reinstall with the same Torx head screws. Option #3 gets a little involved. First you must find a recall notice for your truck. Start by checking on the internet at www.nhtsa.gov and drill down thru the links for recalls to determine if your truck is actually listed (there are other sites to check as well). Just because your truck may not be listed doesn’t mean it’s not under recall. It could easily depend on how your truck is described. For example, a 1995 Chevrolet C1500 Pick-up could easily be listed as a C1500, 1500, 1500-3500, C-Series, C/K Series, Chevrolet Truck, GM Truck, C10 (the old designation), etc. It would pay to look under as many designations as you can think of before giving up. If you find your truck as listed, so much the better. Print out a copy of the recall and wave it at your dealer’s service manager and they should fix it No Questions Asked. If they still refuse, contact Chevrolet/GMC Customer Assistance and/or the NHTSA’s hotline (both are toll-free and listed on their respective web sites). If you do not find your truck specifically listed, all hope is not yet lost. Search for the same truck under a different model year, or a substantially similar vehicle which does have a recall (For example, the Chevy Blazer shares the same wiper components as the Chevy S-10 and Astro, the GMC Jimmy, Safari and Sonoma, the Olds Bravada, etc.). Print out a copy of the recall for the other vehicle and go to your dealer’s parts department. Have them search for the part number of the circuit board for the recalled vehicle, then for the part number for your truck. Odds are in your favor that they will both be exactly the same. Hence, your wiper module is one of the faulty ones being recalled and should be covered but your truck may have been left off the recall list. Take this info to the service manager and depending on how much he wants to keep you as a customer, he will find a way to have the board replaced under the recall. If not, then you still have options #1 and #2 above, or you could fix your existing board yourself. Repair – You can easily repair your existing board if you know how to turn a screwdriver and know which end of a soldering gun to hold. If you haven’t mastered either of these skills, then have someone else do the job for you. Step 1 – Locate the wiper module and remove the circuit board as described in Option #2 above. Be VERY careful removing the circuit board. Do not crack, bend or break it or you’re outta luck and will have to buy a new one. The circuit board is approx. 2"x 4" and has two distinct sides. The top is the side where all the components live, especially the large black socket for the electrical connector (more on that later). The bottom is where all the lead wires from the electrical components poke thru the board and are soldered to the printed circuit. Carefully wipe the excess grease off the board. Step 2 – The fault in the board is caused by bad solder joints holding the large socket onto the printed circuit. If the board itself is cracked or broken, then you will have to get a new one. Carefully inspect the tiny mounds of solder underneath the large socket on the bottom of the board. Each drop of solder connects a lead wire from the socket to the printed circuit. A bad solder joint may look like it has a tiny circle in the drop of solder around the wire end, a chip or crack in the little mound of solder, or it may be too small to see. At this point you will need a soldering gun and solder, and a steady hand. Step 3 – Set your circuit board bottom side up so you can see the solder joints for the socket onto the printed circuit. Heat up your soldering gun and apply just a tiny drop of solder to the tip. Place the hot tip with the melted solder directly onto the existing solder joint in question just long enough until the gun melts the existing solder and the new solder mixes in with it. Remove the gun from the work and allow to cool. Remelting the original solder and adding some extra should repair the joint and make continuity again and reinforce it. Repeat for all the solder joints in question, and/or all the solder joints for the socket. Don’t overheat your work, or solder may run down and create a short to another circuit, or you may unknowingly fry a component on the other side of the board. Step 4 – Allow everything to cool, then reinstall the board as listed in Option #2 above. Good luck – Jonathan
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pete, > I was just going to post a new topic on this one and I saw yours. My ‘95 > was not giving me trouble, but I thought that since there was a recall and I > was eligible, I’d go in and get mine fixed before the recall was over. > After 4 months, mine is acting all funny. No more interval wipers and I get > a double run every time I use the "mist" function. > Will they stand behind these things a second time? I agree about being out > a truck for a day for a 5 minute job. I stood and waited the first time and > it took him longer to get his tools than to put the new part in. > Snowman > Mine has gone for the second time – this time I think it’s for good. > If I get lucky and there’s a recall on the things (‘98 burb…) should I > be able > to just yank the bad one myself and exchange it at the parts window? > Seems like a PITA to lose the vehicle for a day if they have to do the > work… > PeteCresswell
