Suburban gas to diesel conversion???
Question:
> I was told that it was rebuilt within the last few months and I just want to > keep it as healthy as possible. I don’t have a cooler on it yet, but I saved > your article on how to route it (I don’t think I’ll go as far as brand > specific wire ties and hose clamps) and plan to do so soon. (Maybe even > tonight, seeing as I have some new-found cash available that I had saved for > taxe$…)
e-mail if you need any info
Response:
I wish I could take it back, but their out of business now … I wonder why? Thanks, Andrew
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wow! > Mark, I had no idea! I think I might just sell the one I have and buy a > diesel. It’s just that I have gone through this Suburban (mechanically) > through out. She is very sound. The reason I am changing the engine is > that > she burns way too much oil … two quarts a 40 gallon tank! The engine > only > has approximately 30K since a rebuild. Plus she gets horrible gas mileage > … 5-6 a gallon. > I’m sorry it is not a complicated conversion but is more then a drop and go > situation. You have to look more into your set-up like: is your speedo a > quartz set-up, is your trans electronic and so on… I think my 91 was the > first year to use the 4L80E, you may have the good old fashion 700R4 with > the shift cable and a mechanical speedo. If so then it would be a minor > trans modification and the brake power boost modification and you could just > disconnect the computer. Take the engine back to the shop that rebuilt it 2 > qts per 300 miles is an issue. It sounds like they did not hone the > cylinder bores before they rebuilt the engine (been there done that, once) > or the rings did not set. > good luck, > mark
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 700R4 was used into model year 93 > 4L60E was first used in 93 > so there was some overlap in 1993 same > the valve body on the 60E is aluminum, cast iron on 700R4 > 700 uses a governor to control shift points and a throttle cable to control > line pressure, upshift scheduling, and downshift at throttle opening; the > 60E uses electronic controls throughout > torque converter remained the same thru 97, in 98 converter clutch lining > went to a woven-fiber material, and the ECM caused a regulated amount of > slip upon > TCC application > durability of the gear train is similar, as gear train has remained the same > since 1982; 60E’s suffer from a weak area where the sun shell splines onto > the rear sun gear, also the valve body is subject to wear in the torque > converter regulator valve bore, and the actuator feed limit valve bore > additionally, 97 full-size trucks have a wiring concern at the ECM, a bad > ground inside the ECM will cause no or slow pressure rise upon throttle > opening, which will cause a failure: a wiring harness modification is > available to correct this problem > some 700’s suffer from inadequate pressure rise vs throttle opening, can be > corrected by increasing size of pressure regulator boost valve, also the > size of the servo piston that applies the band in 2nd gear can usually be > increased one step with no bad effects
I was told that it was rebuilt within the last few months and I just want to keep it as healthy as possible. I don’t have a cooler on it yet, but I saved your article on how to route it (I don’t think I’ll go as far as brand specific wire ties and hose clamps) and plan to do so soon. (Maybe even tonight, seeing as I have some new-found cash available that I had saved for taxe$…) ~KJ~ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What are the reliability/toughness differences between a 700R4 and a 60LE? > And which does my 1990 GMC Jimmy have? I’m guessing the 60LE….. > ~KJ~ > > change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel > > > > I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to > replace > > > the > > > > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or > 6.5 > > > liter > > > > diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > > > imho…. > > > 1. new engine mounts > > > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > > > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > > > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > > > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > > > 5. new diesel computer > > > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > > > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas > to > > > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > > > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the > HVAC > > > system > > > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > > > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power > > steering > > > pump, ac compressor ect > > > 11. add and wire a second battery > > > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > > > 13. change the exhaust system > > > 14. etc…. > > > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about > $4400 > to > > > your door. So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the > work > > > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the > wiring > > > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > > > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas > > computer. > > > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would > be > > > the emissions issue. I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and > go > > on > > > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing. Keep us > > posted > > > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk > yard. > > > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > > > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with > a > > 6.5 > > > dsl. > > > Good luck, > > > mark > > > 6.5 dsl —> http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm
Response:
700R4 was used into model year 93 4L60E was first used in 93 so there was some overlap in 1993 the valve body on the 60E is aluminum, cast iron on 700R4 700 uses a governor to control shift points and a throttle cable to control line pressure, upshift scheduling, and downshift at throttle opening; the 60E uses electronic controls throughout torque converter remained the same thru 97, in 98 converter clutch lining went to a woven-fiber material, and the ECM caused a regulated amount of slip upon TCC application durability of the gear train is similar, as gear train has remained the same since 1982; 60E’s suffer from a weak area where the sun shell splines onto the rear sun gear, also the valve body is subject to wear in the torque converter regulator valve bore, and the actuator feed limit valve bore additionally, 97 full-size trucks have a wiring concern at the ECM, a bad ground inside the ECM will cause no or slow pressure rise upon throttle opening, which will cause a failure: a wiring harness modification is available to correct this problem some 700’s suffer from inadequate pressure rise vs throttle opening, can be corrected by increasing size of pressure regulator boost valve, also the size of the servo piston that applies the band in 2nd gear can usually be increased one step with no bad effects
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What are the reliability/toughness differences between a 700R4 and a 60LE? > And which does my 1990 GMC Jimmy have? I’m guessing the 60LE….. > ~KJ~ > change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel > > > I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to > replace > > the > > > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > > liter > > > diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > > imho…. > > 1. new engine mounts > > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > > 5. new diesel computer > > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > > system > > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power > steering > > pump, ac compressor ect > > 11. add and wire a second battery > > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > > 13. change the exhaust system > > 14. etc…. > > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 > to > > your door. So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the > work > > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas > computer. > > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would > be > > the emissions issue. I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go > on > > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing. Keep us > posted > > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a > 6.5 > > dsl. > > Good luck, > > mark > > 6.5 dsl —> http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm
Response:
What are the reliability/toughness differences between a 700R4 and a 60LE? And which does my 1990 GMC Jimmy have? I’m guessing the 60LE….. ~KJ~
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel > > I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to replace > the > > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > liter > > diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > imho…. > 1. new engine mounts > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > 5. new diesel computer > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > system > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power > steering > pump, ac compressor ect > 11. add and wire a second battery > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > 13. change the exhaust system > 14. etc…. > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to > your door. So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas > computer. > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be > the emissions issue. I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go > on > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing. Keep us > posted > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a > 6.5 > dsl. > Good luck, > mark > 6.5 dsl —> http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm
Response:
> Wow! > Mark, I had no idea! I think I might just sell the one I have and buy a > diesel. It’s just that I have gone through this Suburban (mechanically) > through out. She is very sound. The reason I am changing the engine is that > she burns way too much oil … two quarts a 40 gallon tank! The engine only > has approximately 30K since a rebuild. Plus she gets horrible gas mileage > … 5-6 a gallon.
I’m sorry it is not a complicated conversion but is more then a drop and go situation. You have to look more into your set-up like: is your speedo a quartz set-up, is your trans electronic and so on… I think my 91 was the first year to use the 4L80E, you may have the good old fashion 700R4 with the shift cable and a mechanical speedo. If so then it would be a minor trans modification and the brake power boost modification and you could just disconnect the computer. Take the engine back to the shop that rebuilt it 2 qts per 300 miles is an issue. It sounds like they did not hone the cylinder bores before they rebuilt the engine (been there done that, once) or the rings did not set. good luck, mark
Response:
change valve body on transmission (if 700R4) to one made for a diesel
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to replace > the > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > liter > diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > imho…. > 1. new engine mounts > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > 5. new diesel computer > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > system > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power steering > pump, ac compressor ect > 11. add and wire a second battery > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > 13. change the exhaust system > 14. etc…. > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to > your door. So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas computer. > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be > the emissions issue. I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go on > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing. Keep us posted > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a 6.5 > dsl. > Good luck, > mark > 6.5 dsl —> http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm
Response:
Wow! Mark, I had no idea! I think I might just sell the one I have and buy a diesel. It’s just that I have gone through this Suburban (mechanically) through out. She is very sound. The reason I am changing the engine is that she burns way too much oil … two quarts a 40 gallon tank! The engine only has approximately 30K since a rebuild. Plus she gets horrible gas mileage … 5-6 a gallon. Thanks for the input! Andrew
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to replace > the > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 > liter > diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? > imho…. > 1. new engine mounts > 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) > 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and > temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) > 4. re-wire engine wiring harness > 5. new diesel computer > 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump > 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to > heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) > 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC > system > 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo > 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power steering > pump, ac compressor ect > 11. add and wire a second battery > 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump > 13. change the exhaust system > 14. etc…. > It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to > your door. So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work > yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring > going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin > out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas computer. > I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be > the emissions issue. I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go on > your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing. Keep us posted > if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. > Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting > brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a 6.5 > dsl. > Good luck, > mark > 6.5 dsl —> http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm
Response:
> I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to replace the > engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 liter > diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome?
imho…. 1. new engine mounts 2. new torque converter (providing trans is sound) 3. new instrument cluster (diesel has different- gas, oil pressure and temperature gauges as well as different idiot lights) 4. re-wire engine wiring harness 5. new diesel computer 6. re-plumb break assist from vacuum to power steering pump 7. figure out how to get the emissions converted from heavy duty gas to heavy duty diesel (will require a new underhood sticker) 8. electric vacuum pump (if engine is not equipt with one) for the HVAC system 9. engine must be mechanical injection, NA or turbo 10. need to locate the correct mounting brackets for the alt, power steering pump, ac compressor ect 11. add and wire a second battery 12. change the fuel tank and fuel pump 13. change the exhaust system 14. etc…. It is very do-able a complete drop-in 6.5 dsl will cost you about $4400 to your door. So I figure it will cost about $7k if you can do all the work yourself including rewiring the engine harness and converting the wiring going to the trans, electrics, and instrument cluster to match the pin out-in of the new diesel computer as it is different then the gas computer. I also want to do the same conversion but I think the real issue would be the emissions issue. I don’t think you can just drop in a diesel and go on your marry way and still pass the annual emissions testing. Keep us posted if you go ahead most of the needed parts are available from a junk yard. Get some of the parts from a normal autoparts store and the mounting brackets for the belt drive items should be available from a junk with a 6.5 dsl. Good luck, mark 6.5 dsl —> http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm
Response:
I have a 1990 Suburban R-2500 with a 454. I am getting ready to replace the engine and was wondering if it is possible to convert to a 6.2 or 6.5 liter diesel? If so, what obstacles do I have to overcome? Thanks, Andrew
