Parking Break on 1999 GMC Jimmy
Question:
On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
My first GM was a 1951 Chevy 4 door. It worked exactly like this. Emergency brake was good forward, but was fairly ineffective in reverse. Since then I’ve owned probably 25 more GMs and one Ford. They all work like that. Has to do with the emergency brake actuating only one shoe in the rear drum. Rolling forward the shoe is pushed against the drum; backward it’s pushed away. And if your Jimmy has rear disks, I have egg on my face. Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in > preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not > prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics > of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make > sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and > that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must > pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
The parking brake on a drum brake vehicle will work much better going forward than reverse. This is inherent in the design of most drum brakes. The parking brake SHOULD still work in reverse, although not as well as forward. The parking brake cable may have stretched, which is a simple cable adjustment, or the self-adjusters may need cleaning, and the rear brake shoes may need adjusting. Should not be a major problem to get the parking brake working again as long as the cable is not rusted and operating freely. With only 23,000 miles on the vehicle, I would think the dealer would do this for free under warranty. Tom
> On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in > preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not > prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics > of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make > sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and > that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must > pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
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Response:
Check your shoes for uneven wear, good chance that you have a shot wheel cylinder, it may be pushing harder on one shoe than the other. This wouldn’t affect your parking brake but the uneven wear would. When you pull on your parking brake ( if all things are working properly) It does pull harder on only one side, however, there should be a bar bridging the two shoes that forces both shoes to work together, one will never work independant of the other. I.R.Dingus 1994 Lada Niva (Vlad-a the Lada) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My first GM was a 1951 Chevy 4 door. It worked exactly like this. > Emergency brake was good forward, but was fairly ineffective in reverse. > Since then I’ve owned probably 25 more GMs and one Ford. They all work > like that. Has to do with the emergency brake actuating only one shoe in > the rear drum. Rolling forward the shoe is pushed against the drum; > backward it’s pushed away. > And if your Jimmy has rear disks, I have egg on my face. > Myron E. Williams > On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in > preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not > prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics > of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make > sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and > that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must > pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
Start cleaning your face, the newer Jimmy/Blazer models have rear discs. I think this started in 98 or 99. What may save your face is if they use a drum like brake inside the disc hub as the parking brake. I’ve seen it done… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My first GM was a 1951 Chevy 4 door. It worked exactly like this. > Emergency brake was good forward, but was fairly ineffective in reverse. > Since then I’ve owned probably 25 more GMs and one Ford. They all work > like that. Has to do with the emergency brake actuating only one shoe in > the rear drum. Rolling forward the shoe is pushed against the drum; > backward it’s pushed away. > And if your Jimmy has rear disks, I have egg on my face. > Myron E. Williams >On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in >preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not >prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics >of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make >sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and >that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must >pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
"Myron E. Williams" wrote > And if your Jimmy has rear disks, I have egg on my face.
No, not so Myron…the newer Jimmy’s use a drum brake style e-brake inside the hub of the rotor. So you would be correct. These e-brake’s are fairly ineffective anyway at the best of times. The full size trucks seem to be particularly weak. Ian
Response:
The parking break should not be worn out in this short of period, considering the mileage is not high. The only thing that could prematurely wear them out would be driving around with the park break partially on. I just did 2 brake jobs last weekend and I adjusted both systems to the point that you cannot pull or step on the E-brake for more than 2 clicks. Here in this part of the country the E-brake is not an option. It will not pass inspection, for insurance purposes if it does not operate correctly. Whether or not it is a warranty item, it should be repaired as it is a fairly useful item, particularly depending on what part of the country you live in (i.e.: mountains). If it is just an adjustment then it will not be all that expensive to repair. And if reaching into the wallet to pay for it is an issue, have it repaired at an independent garage and save a few dollars, and if stop and see one he should be able to give you a good idea of what it may cost depending on the condition of aforementioned parts. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in > preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not > prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics > of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make > sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and > that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must > pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
Thanks for the reply. They tightened it up but when I took it hope and tested it in my driveway (the dealers lot was flat), it did the same thing. When in neutral, it holds fine forward, but not at all backwards. What would cause it to work in one direction only? I would think that if it’s a worn break pad or loose cable, it wouldn’t work in either direction. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The parking break should not be worn out in this short of period, > considering the mileage is not high. The only thing that could > prematurely wear them out would be driving around with the park break > partially on. I just did 2 brake jobs last weekend and I adjusted both > systems to the point that you cannot pull or step on the E-brake for more > than 2 clicks. Here in this part of the country the E-brake is not an > option. It will not pass inspection, for insurance purposes if it does > not operate correctly. Whether or not it is a warranty item, it should be > repaired as it is a fairly useful item, particularly depending on what > part of the country you live in (i.e.: mountains). If it is just an > adjustment then it will not be all that expensive to repair. And if > reaching into the wallet to pay for it is an issue, have it repaired at an > independent garage and save a few dollars, and if stop and see one he > should be able to give you a good idea of what it may cost depending on > the condition of aforementioned parts. > On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in > preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not > prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics > of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make > sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and > that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must > pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
I think that’s weird.. I’ve got two GM cars… and both of the parking breaks keeps the car from rolling backward.
> Thanks for the reply. They tightened it up but when I took it hope > and tested it in my driveway (the dealers lot was flat), it did the > same thing. When in neutral, it holds fine forward, but not at all > backwards. What would cause it to work in one direction only? I > would think that if it’s a worn break pad or loose cable, it wouldn’t > work in either direction.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The parking break should not be worn out in this short of period, > considering the mileage is not high. The only thing that could > prematurely wear them out would be driving around with the park break > partially on. I just did 2 brake jobs last weekend and I adjusted both > systems to the point that you cannot pull or step on the E-brake for more > than 2 clicks. Here in this part of the country the E-brake is not an > option. It will not pass inspection, for insurance purposes if it does > not operate correctly. Whether or not it is a warranty item, it should be > repaired as it is a fairly useful item, particularly depending on what > part of the country you live in (i.e.: mountains). If it is just an > adjustment then it will not be all that expensive to repair. And if > reaching into the wallet to pay for it is an issue, have it repaired at an > independent garage and save a few dollars, and if stop and see one he > should be able to give you a good idea of what it may cost depending on > the condition of aforementioned parts. > > On my 1999 GMC Jimmy, my parking break seems to work fine in > > preventing the truck in neutral from rolling forward, but does not > > prevent it from rolling backwords. Does anyone know how the mechanics > > of the parking break works, and why this would be. I want to make > > sure this is a problem that will be covered under the warranty, and > > that the dealer won’t tell me it’s a "wear and tear" issue that I must > > pay for.. The truck only has 23,000 miles on it.
Response:
:I think that’s weird.. I’ve got two GM cars… and both of the parking :breaks keeps the car from rolling backward. It is a feature of drum brakes that the emergency brake doesn’t work as well in reverese. If you have 4 wheel disks it should work equally well in either direction.
Response:
I have rear drums on one car. Discs on the other. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> :I think that’s weird.. I’ve got two GM cars… and both of the parking > :breaks keeps the car from rolling backward. > It is a feature of drum brakes that the emergency brake doesn’t > work as well in reverese. If you have 4 wheel disks it should > work equally well in either direction.
Response:
I don’t ever have a problem setting up rear drum brakes. I just finished preparing a car for inspection in the neighboring province of British Columbia. The entire province is mountains. When transferring vehicles from province to province the vehicle has to meet extremely high standards. Brake pads and shoes must be a minimum of 80% and the Emergency Brake "MUST WORK". Not sort of, kind of work, it must function on a steep grade, or it will not pass the inter provincial. I would imagine it is just as strict from state to state in the U.S. We had to go over the entire vehicle from top to bottom to ensure everything is in working order. Most people never have to prep a vehicle to this level. Even the vehicles from within their own province don’t have to meet these rigorous standards, only one’s being transferred in from out of province. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have rear drums on one car. Discs on the other. > :I think that’s weird.. I’ve got two GM cars… and both of the parking > :breaks keeps the car from rolling backward. > It is a feature of drum brakes that the emergency brake doesn’t > work as well in reverese. If you have 4 wheel disks it should > work equally well in either direction.
Response:
:Not sort of, kind of work, it must function on a steep grade, or it will not :pass the inter provincial. I would imagine it is just as strict from state :to state in the U.S. in the US ’sort of kind of work’ passes, and that assumes the high school kid doing the inspection thinks to check it at all. Do you check them in reverse by the way? I think you’ll find no matter how good they are they are always less effective in reverse (drums that is).
Response:
Wow, yup, I always set em’ up tight though. I almost have to use a hammer to put the drum on and the mechanic that is doing the inspection has a hell of a time getting the drum off to do the inspection. I always set them up so the are actually dragging a bit. Drive em’ around for a few miles first then it’s inspection time. Here in Alberta, and in neighboring B.C., the mechanics have to do a test and meet approved criteria in order to do inter provincial inspections. Some of the shops here and in B.C. take advantage of this, knowing that you have to pass in order to register. So they will casually announce to you that you now need 3 to 4 thousand dollars of work in order to pass. In the end it really comes down to who you know, and not what you know. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > :Not sort of, kind of work, it must function on a steep grade, or it will not > :pass the inter provincial. I would imagine it is just as strict from state > :to state in the U.S. > in the US ’sort of kind of work’ passes, and that assumes the high school kid > doing the inspection thinks to check it at all. > Do you check them in reverse by the way? I think you’ll find no matter how > good they are they are always less effective in reverse (drums that is).
Response:
"mcgilly" wrote > Here in Alberta, and in neighboring B.C., the mechanics have to > do a test and meet approved criteria in order to do inter provincial > inspections. Some of the shops here and in B.C. take advantage of this, knowing > that you have to pass in order to register. So they will casually announce to > you that you now need 3 to 4 thousand dollars of work in order to pass. In the > end it really comes down to who you know, and not what you know.
Where did you get this information from? I’m licensed to do Alberta out-of-province inspections and there was no test and no approved criteria other then you must be a licensed mechanic. All I had to do was go down to the local motor vehicle registration place and pay 30 odd dollars for the inspection forms. It’s possible that they are tightening up the regs, I saw a brief blurb about the fact that the inspections will be tightened up soon. By the way, in another post, you mention that brake linings must be at 80% or better…..as it stands right now with the out-of-province inspections I’m using…this is not true. The brake pads and shoes have to have at least 2/32" lining depth left. That’s all. Frankly the whole provincial inspection thing is an attempt to stop the *dumping* of rust bucket eastern vehicles out here into the west. Before the inspections were in force, you would see all sorts of rust buckets from Ontario being shipped out here by the truck load. Unscrupulous people would just cosmetically hide as much as the rust as possible and sell them off. They looked great until you started working on them. Since the inspections have come into play, the amount of these types of vehicles in the market place has gone down *dramatically*. Ian
Response:
I read the later posts but had to comment ……
When transferring vehicles from > province to province the vehicle has to meet extremely high standards. I > would imagine it is just as strict from state > to state in the U.S.
In the U.S. we are free to move from state to state. Except Hawaii. No "out of state" plates allowed for more than a few days. It gives the police probable cause to pull over new drug dealers from California.
Response:
:In the U.S. we are free to move from state to state. there is usually some sort of inspection required when you move and transfer registration, which is what i think he meant.
Response:
I’m just going on what I was told by a mechanic at Mayfield Auto when he failed our car and told us it would cost $3500 dollars to bring it up to spec. I laughed, and told him that was never going to happen. Took it to another mechanic and he passed it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > "mcgilly" wrote > Here in Alberta, and in neighboring B.C., the mechanics have to > do a test and meet approved criteria in order to do inter provincial > inspections. Some of the shops here and in B.C. take advantage of this, > knowing > that you have to pass in order to register. So they will casually > announce to > you that you now need 3 to 4 thousand dollars of work in order to pass. > In the > end it really comes down to who you know, and not what you know. > Where did you get this information from? I’m licensed to do > Alberta out-of-province inspections and there was no test and > no approved criteria other then you must be a licensed mechanic. > All I had to do was go down to the local motor vehicle > registration place and pay 30 odd dollars for the inspection > forms. > It’s possible that they are tightening up the regs, I saw a brief > blurb about the fact that the inspections will be tightened up > soon. By the way, in another post, you mention that brake linings > must be at 80% or better…..as it stands right now with the > out-of-province inspections I’m using…this is not true. The > brake pads and shoes have to have at least 2/32" lining > depth left. That’s all. > Frankly the whole provincial inspection thing is an attempt > to stop the *dumping* of rust bucket eastern vehicles out > here into the west. Before the inspections were in force, > you would see all sorts of rust buckets from Ontario being > shipped out here by the truck load. Unscrupulous people > would just cosmetically hide as much as the rust as possible > and sell them off. They looked great until you started > working on them. Since the inspections have come into > play, the amount of these types of vehicles in the > market place has gone down *dramatically*. > Ian
Response:
"mcgilly" wrote > I’m just going on what I was told by a mechanic at Mayfield Auto when he > failed our car and told us it would cost $3500 dollars to bring it up to > spec. I laughed, and told him that was never going to happen. Took it to > another mechanic and he passed it.
Which is why the whole out of province inspection thing can be a bit of a scam. Ian
Response:
:Which is why the whole out of province inspection thing can be a :bit of a scam. be happy, in some us states you have to run through that inspection scam every year.
Response:
" George Jefferson " wrote > be happy, in some us states you have to run through that inspection > scam every year.
Yep, I keep wondering when we will get that sort of legislation out here in Alberta. Ian
Response:
Yeah, annual inspection of vehicles here in NYS. They call it more of a safety inspection than an emissions inspection in my part of the state. I don’t mind knowing that any vehicle that has been properly inspected will be safe on the roads… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > :Which is why the whole out of province inspection thing can be a > :bit of a scam. > be happy, in some us states you have to run through that inspection > scam every year.
