A/C question
Question:
Well, on my POS explorer the A/C died a few months ago, and I was wondering if perhaps this problem had a simple fix… I was driving one day with my A/C running, and suddenly, my A/C stopped blowing out cold air… it was just blowing out air. It was taking a while for the air to get cool before, but I figured that was normal…. any suggestions would be appreciated.
Response:
What year is it, the early ones are bad for O ring leaks at the pipe joints. ( been there done that!) StuK – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Well, on my POS explorer the A/C died a few months ago, and I was wondering if >perhaps this problem had a simple fix… I was driving one day with my A/C >running, and suddenly, my A/C stopped blowing out cold air… it was just >blowing out air. It was taking a while for the air to get cool before, but I >figured that was normal…. any suggestions would be appreciated.
Response:
> >All 1994 Chrysler products came with R-134a. >All 1993 (first year) Chrysler LH chassis vehicles came with >R-134a. > You’re the one who said to pick a ‘whatever’.
I am not Steve Barker. Get a clue. > Feel free to provide > your own examples in the future.
I did provide examples. The 93 LH chassis was the first where ALL versions built recieved R-134a as the refrigerant. In 1994, Chrysler was the first manufacturer to use R-134a on ALL vehicles produced for sale in North America. > Oh, and just for shits and giggles, > I repeted the search using a 1994 GMC Jimmy…still no mention of > refrigerant.
You’re making the assumption that there would be a difference in the condensor in a 94 Jimmy depending on whether it used R-12 or R-134a. That isn’t necessarily so. Try a component that is a little more specific to which refrigerant might be used, like the accumulator for instance. (I thought you claimed to have AC experience?) Bonus points if you can tell us -why- the accumulator would need to be specific to the refrigerant. >You picked a unique example for your check with Auto Zoo. >GM and Ford were a little slow in switching over. ^^^ > Cadillac was an early adopter.
Re-read the above.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>The evidence is under the hood of all 1994 automobiles. Start popping >>>hoods. No one’s guessing. >>I’ve got 18 years in the mobile A/C buisness. I’ve worked on cars, >>trucks, motorhomes, and farm equippment A/C. At no time have I ever >>run into anything newer than 1993 that used R-12. If you have >>evidence to the contrary, feel free to provide it. Otherwise, stfu. >Come take a look at my truck. I INVITE you to. >Modern photography technology apparently eludes you. And, you faild >to post your address. >You’ll see a nice >yellow sticker on the compressor (a Harrison if it matters, OEM I >believe) that states it’s an R-12 compressor. No labels anywhere else >stating otherwise… >Irrelevant. Any number of compressors were used in both R-12 and >R-134a applications.
and you are afraid to use your name when you post an article, You remind me of the fellah who showed up at a cock fight with a duck. Besides the others don’t have to prove squat to you, If you think they are wrong then it is up to you to prove it. Until then they are right. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
You can R&R the switch yourself. There is a schrader valve in the fitting on the accumulator. Go buy the switch , unscrew and screw the new one on. hand tight! and only HAND TIGHT. The o-ring seals it, not the torque of tightening it.
: 94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 : shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has : the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last : week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the : compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to : go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was : happy. : : 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the : pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! : Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that : pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice : and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this : mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with : the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? : : BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble : my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
Response:
>>The evidence is under the hood of all 1994 automobiles. Start popping >hoods. No one’s guessing. >I’ve got 18 years in the mobile A/C buisness. I’ve worked on cars, >trucks, motorhomes, and farm equippment A/C. At no time have I ever >run into anything newer than 1993 that used R-12. If you have >evidence to the contrary, feel free to provide it. Otherwise, stfu.
Come take a look at my truck. I INVITE you to. You’ll see a nice yellow sticker on the compressor (a Harrison if it matters, OEM I believe) that states it’s an R-12 compressor. No labels anywhere else stating otherwise…
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Then your a MORON. >That would be ‘you’re’, not ‘your’, genius. >1994 was the change over year. I have a 94 S-Series >Blazer sitting in the front yard IT HAS R-12 from the factory. The 94 S >Pickups were either one depending on what part of the year they were built. >Also have a 94 GEO that is R-12 as well. Maybe you better go back to school. >And I know of two other 94 vehicles one is a Ford and the other is a >Chrysler They are R12 also >Your saying so does not prove anything. Post proof or stfu. >http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/alternative/current/7782.html Read the >second reply. >You believe that statements by people who can’t spell constitutes >proof?
Fine, I’ll take a pic of my compressor when I get the chance and post a link to it. How can I prove what year my truck is, even though I know it’s a 94. I don’t wanna give away more info than I have to…
Response:
Just out of curiosity, Is this truck a 94 model built in 93? It will show the date built on the door sticker. Anything made in August or later is the next years model if I remember right. It could say 9/93 and be a 94 model, right?.
Response:
Hi! > Fine, I’ll take a pic of my compressor when I get the chance and post > a link to it. How can I prove what year my truck is, even though I > know it’s a 94. I don’t wanna give away more info than I have to…
Well, here are some thoughts…maybe they’ll help… Take a picture of the truck in some generic environment and cover the plates up with an image editor? Take a picture of the sticker on the door and black out the VIN? Or finally–just take a picture of the manual? Hope that helps…although I (for one) do believe what you say. I’ve seen the same exact thing. William "The Guesser" Walsh 1984 GMC Sierra 6.2L Diesel 1994 Chevrolet C1500 W/T (dad’s truck) 4.3L V6 2003 S-10 4.3L V6 Participating in A.T.C for the fun of it!
Response:
No door sticker. I don’t recall it even being there when I got the truck, but I’ve also had the door repaired, and I don’t think the shop saved the sticker if it was there… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Just out of curiosity, Is this truck a 94 model built in 93? It will show >the date built on the door sticker. Anything made in August or later is the >next years model if I remember right. It could say 9/93 and be a 94 model, >right?.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, >>>>Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either >>>>your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant. >>>Should I take a pic of the label on the compressor that says it’s >>>R-12? >>Whatever floats your boat. While you’re at it, take a picture of the >>label on the evaporator housing that gives the refrigerant type and >>charge. >What label? >The label that states the refrigerant type and charge.
I said what I did because there’s no label on the evaporator box. Never was. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>neither of the 2 >>>>>shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has >>>>>the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. >>>>A shop that does not possess recovery equippment is not qualified to >>>>do A/C repairs. Also, it cannot legally attempt refrigeration system >>>>repairs. It can do electrical A/C work. >>>OK, let me re-state myself. I know for a fact that one of the 2 shops >>>has the equipment, not sure on the other. >>>>>The A/C worked last >>>>>week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the >>>>>compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to >>>>>go farther. >>>>This means that they are smart enough to stay away from work that they >>>>are not qualified to do. >>>They ARE qualified to do the work, they just didn’t want to charge me >>You didn’t want to pay…correct? >Not the $250 for the conversion, which they said they’d have to do so >they could re-charge the system to test it. >But you stated that you get cold air when you jumper the low-pressure >switch. That would indicate that there is at least enough refrigerant >in the system to allow testing. Which tends to support my contention >that the shop in question is not qualified to do A/C work.
I’m not going to complain about what they did or didn’t do, considering there’s no record ANYTHING was done when I asked them to look at it since they didn’t charge me. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->This shop is good to me, all my really major repairs go to them and >they haven’t done me wrong yet. >That you know of. >>>to check it out, so they only went so far, but it worked after they >>>looked at it, so I was happy. Also, this is the same shop that >>>repaired the truck after an accident, including repairing the A/C. >>>>> The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was >>>>>happy. >>>>>2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the >>>>>pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! >>>>>Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that >>>>>pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice >>>>>and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this >>>>>mean the pressure switch is bad >>>>That is one possibility. There are others. >>>>>and I can take this to the shop with >>>>>the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? >>>>You can do whatever you wish. I’d suggest that you find a shop that >>>>knows how to do A/C work. For what it’s worth, the low-pressure >>>>switch should be mounted on a Schrader valve, and would not require >>>>discharging the system for replacement. A competent A/C shop would >>>>know this. >>>>>BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble >>>>>my A/C system and do a proper conversion… >>>>Cold air costs money. How comfortable can you afford to be?
Response:
> >94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, > Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either > your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant. > snip
Then it looks like I’ve got the second 1994 with factory R-12 AC. 1994 GMC S-15 Jimmy SLE 4.3 W 4dr. Vehicle built Oct 1, 1994 BTW my 1994 Olds Ciera is R-134. –reed
Response:
Then your a MORON. 1994 was the change over year. I have a 94 S-Series Blazer sitting in the front yard IT HAS R-12 from the factory. The 94 S Pickups were either one depending on what part of the year they were built. Also have a 94 GEO that is R-12 as well. Maybe you better go back to school. And I know of two other 94 vehicles one is a Ford and the other is a Chrysler They are R12 also http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/alternative/current/7782.html Read the second reply. — Pacifism – The theory that if they’d fed Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh, he’d have become a vegan.
>The evidence is under the hood of all 1994 automobiles. Start popping >hoods. No one’s guessing. > I’ve got 18 years in the mobile A/C buisness. I’ve worked on cars, > trucks, motorhomes, and farm equippment A/C. At no time have I ever > run into anything newer than 1993 that used R-12. If you have > evidence to the contrary, feel free to provide it. Otherwise, stfu.
—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Response:
the switch on the accumulator can be changed while the sytem is charged… (if I recall corectly) ask someone who still does that type of work but I belive the accumulator has a sharcder valve there…… Be carefull…. don’t mess with the A/C system unless you know what you are doing…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 >shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has >the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last >week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the >compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to >go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was >happy. >2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the >pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! >Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that >pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice >and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this >mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with >the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? >BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble >my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
—- Elbert Clarke
Response:
> >Call your local parts store and make up a vehicle. Say you want a price on >a condenser for a 1994 whatever machine. The next question out of their >mouth is going to be "is it r12 or r134a?" > Hardly. As it is sunday evening, no local parts stores are open. So, > I went to the Auto Zone web site and looked up a condenser for a 1994 > Jeep Wrangler. At no point did they ask about R-12.
All 1994 Chrysler products came with R-134a. All 1993 (first year) Chrysler LH chassis vehicles came with R-134a. You picked a unique example for your check with Auto Zoo. GM and Ford were a little slow in switching over.
Response:
Autozone!! I said a parts store. Not a fokkin joke house. What a needledick. — Steve Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Call your local parts store and make up a vehicle. Say you want a price on >a condenser for a 1994 whatever machine. The next question out of their >mouth is going to be "is it r12 or r134a?" > Hardly. As it is sunday evening, no local parts stores are open. So, > I went to the Auto Zone web site and looked up a condenser for a 1994 > Jeep Wrangler. At no point did they ask about R-12. > Go ahead and make something else up. I’ve got time.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, >>Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either >>your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant. >Should I take a pic of the label on the compressor that says it’s >R-12? >Whatever floats your boat. While you’re at it, take a picture of the >label on the evaporator housing that gives the refrigerant type and >charge.
What label? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>neither of the 2 >>>shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has >>>the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. >>A shop that does not possess recovery equippment is not qualified to >>do A/C repairs. Also, it cannot legally attempt refrigeration system >>repairs. It can do electrical A/C work. >OK, let me re-state myself. I know for a fact that one of the 2 shops >has the equipment, not sure on the other. >>>The A/C worked last >>>week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the >>>compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to >>>go farther. >>This means that they are smart enough to stay away from work that they >>are not qualified to do. >They ARE qualified to do the work, they just didn’t want to charge me >You didn’t want to pay…correct?
Not the $250 for the conversion, which they said they’d have to do so they could re-charge the system to test it. This shop is good to me, all my really major repairs go to them and they haven’t done me wrong yet. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->to check it out, so they only went so far, but it worked after they >looked at it, so I was happy. Also, this is the same shop that >repaired the truck after an accident, including repairing the A/C. >>> The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was >>>happy. >>>2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the >>>pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! >>>Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that >>>pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice >>>and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this >>>mean the pressure switch is bad >>That is one possibility. There are others. >>>and I can take this to the shop with >>>the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? >>You can do whatever you wish. I’d suggest that you find a shop that >>knows how to do A/C work. For what it’s worth, the low-pressure >>switch should be mounted on a Schrader valve, and would not require >>discharging the system for replacement. A competent A/C shop would >>know this. >>>BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble >>>my A/C system and do a proper conversion… >>Cold air costs money. How comfortable can you afford to be?
Response:
The evidence is under the hood of all 1994 automobiles. Start popping hoods. No one’s guessing. — Steve Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->’94 was the changeover year. Most models of cars came both ways that year. >So I guess not "impossible" eh? > Evidence? Guesses don’t count.
Response:
Call your local parts store and make up a vehicle. Say you want a price on a condenser for a 1994 whatever machine. The next question out of their mouth is going to be "is it r12 or r134a?" — Steve Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->not true the switch was made in 93 and 94 some vehicles are old some are new > If you have actual evidence of this, feel free to post it.
Response:
You dont have to open the system to replace the switch! It just unscrews and there is a shrader valve that holds in the pressure, just like on your tires. It is probably just a bad connection at the switch anyway. If you move the connector and it kicks in it is most likely just the female spade terminals inside the connector that are loose. get some needle nose plyers and squeese the spades a little and try it again. If you have to you can get some spade connectors and replace the connector altogether. just cut it off and put on two female spades on the two wires and hook it back up to the low pressure switch. It doesnt matter which wire goes where. No big deal.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 > shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has > the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last > week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the > compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to > go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was > happy. > 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the > pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! > Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that > pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice > and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this > mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with > the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? > BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble > my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
Response:
‘94 was the changeover year. Most models of cars came both ways that year. So I guess not "impossible" eh? — Steve Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, > Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either > your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant.
Response:
>>94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, >Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either >your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant.
Should I take a pic of the label on the compressor that says it’s R-12? >neither of the 2 >shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has >the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. >A shop that does not possess recovery equippment is not qualified to >do A/C repairs. Also, it cannot legally attempt refrigeration system >repairs. It can do electrical A/C work.
OK, let me re-state myself. I know for a fact that one of the 2 shops has the equipment, not sure on the other. >The A/C worked last >week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the >compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to >go farther. >This means that they are smart enough to stay away from work that they >are not qualified to do.
They ARE qualified to do the work, they just didn’t want to charge me to check it out, so they only went so far, but it worked after they looked at it, so I was happy. Also, this is the same shop that repaired the truck after an accident, including repairing the A/C. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was >happy. >2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the >pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! >Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that >pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice >and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this >mean the pressure switch is bad >That is one possibility. There are others. >and I can take this to the shop with >the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? >You can do whatever you wish. I’d suggest that you find a shop that >knows how to do A/C work. For what it’s worth, the low-pressure >switch should be mounted on a Schrader valve, and would not require >discharging the system for replacement. A competent A/C shop would >know this. >BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble >my A/C system and do a proper conversion… >Cold air costs money. How comfortable can you afford to be?
Response:
Before you replace the pressure switch, check the metripak connector pins. These pins/connectors have a tendency to lose there spring as they age in an elevated temperature environment. You can re bend the spring clip to repair it or replace it all-together. Cheers Martin
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 > shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has > the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last > week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the > compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to > go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was > happy. > 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the > pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! > Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that > pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice > and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this > mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with > the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? > BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble > my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
Response:
not true the switch was made in 93 and 94 some vehicles are old some are new
Response:
You can change the pressure switch yourself because there is a Schrader valve under the switch that prevents loss of R12 when it is unscrewed. A GM switch will outlast the aftermarket junk. Make sure you lube the o-ring on the new switch with a little oil before you screw it in. If you have a friend that knows electronics, have him install a "flyback diode" in parallel with the compressor clutch coil. A 3A, 600V (or a similar rating) rectifier diode from Radio Shack, etc. will do the job. Then your new switch will last forever since it will no longer have an arc drawn at the contacts everytime they open. The arc eventually burns up the contacts, causing the switch to fail prematurely. When you jiggle the connection, you are actually causing enough vibration to make the burned contacts connect temporarily. Sometime in the late ’90’s GM started putting in flyback diodes, as my ‘99 Silverado has one. Randy
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 > shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has > the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last > week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the > compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to > go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was > happy. > 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the > pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! > Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that > pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice > and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this > mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with > the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? > BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble > my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
Response:
The switch has a schrader valve behind it. You can replace it yourself without refrigerant loss. Just unscrew it and screw the new one on. — Steve (here to have fun) Barker Stilwell, Kansas UP (MoPac) Coffeyville Sub MP 308 Coolpix 995 / PSP 7.04 PS 7 in the background waiting to be learnt. Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 > shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has > the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last > week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the > compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to > go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was > happy. > 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the > pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! > Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that > pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice > and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this > mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with > the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? > BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble > my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
Response:
94 Jimmy 4×4, 4.3L W engine. My A/C is still R-12, neither of the 2 shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12. The A/C worked last week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn’t want to go farther. The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was happy. 2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this mean the pressure switch is bad and I can take this to the shop with the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? BTW, I’m not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble my A/C system and do a proper conversion…
Response:
I checked my belt, and found it somewhat oily. I know I have an oil leak around there, but I wanted to see what all I could get working before making the costly investment to fix the oil leak. I think that as the engine warms up, the belts warm up, and the warmer oil & belts cause them to start slipping, making the red light come on. If you don’t have an oil problem like mine, I’d suggest replacing those belts over there. Rob
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On my 92 Prelude, I have a similar problem… it started occuring on > high-rev take-offs, now it happens whenever the temperature outside is > over 70 degrees, and the car’s been running for, say, 10 minutes. > Are there any temperature-related A/C cutoffs like this? Or is it only > the RPM-matching difference that causes the computer to shut off the > A/C? > -Buzz > —— >I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. >After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little >red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that >indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, >and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other >times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which >case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and >they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the >compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had >this A/C problem. >Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to >fix it?? >Thanks, >Rob
Response:
Robert, I just posted this exact issue about my ‘88 Prelude! The charge in mine is good, but I have started getting the same red light you describe after driving a while ( I never even knew the red light was there before, and I’ve had the car since new). Cycling the motor off then back on makes mine cool for a while too. I added a can of R-12 just in case, and that took away the activity in the sight glass, but the problem is still there. It just started recently. Air flow is good, aux. fan works, vent thermostat is clicking… If you find out what that red light is, please let me know what fixes it, and I will keep your e-mail address if i fix mine.
Response:
On my 92 Prelude, I have a similar problem… it started occuring on high-rev take-offs, now it happens whenever the temperature outside is over 70 degrees, and the car’s been running for, say, 10 minutes. Are there any temperature-related A/C cutoffs like this? Or is it only the RPM-matching difference that causes the computer to shut off the A/C? -Buzz —— – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. >After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little >red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that >indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, >and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other >times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which >case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and >they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the >compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had >this A/C problem. >Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to >fix it?? >Thanks, >Rob
Response:
So it could be as simple as the belt getting warm & slipping? That’s encouraging! Thanks for the help!!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The reason why the red light comes on is because the belt that drives > the A/C compressor also drives the alternator. Honda doesn’t want you to > loose the charging system if the A/C compressor fails so it will shut > off the compressor if there is a problem. The system counts compressor > RPM and matches it against engine RPM. If the two aren’t the same it > shuts the A/C off. That’s when the red light comes on. Find the reason > why there is a difference in RPM, and you will find your problem. > Robert. > I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. > After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little > red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that > indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, > and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other > times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which > case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and > they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the > compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had > this A/C problem. > Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to > fix it?? > Thanks, > Rob
Response:
It’s probably coming on from a low A/C charge.
Response:
The reason why the red light comes on is because the belt that drives the A/C compressor also drives the alternator. Honda doesn’t want you to loose the charging system if the A/C compressor fails so it will shut off the compressor if there is a problem. The system counts compressor RPM and matches it against engine RPM. If the two aren’t the same it shuts the A/C off. That’s when the red light comes on. Find the reason why there is a difference in RPM, and you will find your problem. Robert. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. > After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little > red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that > indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, > and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other > times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which > case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and > they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the > compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had > this A/C problem. > Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to > fix it?? > Thanks, > Rob
Response:
I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had this A/C problem. Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to fix it?? Thanks, Rob
Response:
> The amount of power consumed depends on the difference in the temperature, > and the difference in pressure of the freon gas between when it enters the > heat exchanger inside your vehicule, and when it leaves the same, heated up > after accepting (exchanging) heat from the ambiant hot air.
thanks for everyone’s great answers. I’ll stick to using low fan with recirc.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed > or >difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power >regardless. >Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because > common >sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C > draws a >fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use > the >lowest fan speed. > The faster the cabin fan speed the more electrical power that is > required and the greater the load on the generator. So ultimately you do > save fuel by running the fan at the lowest setting that maintains > comfort.
This ignores the <greater?> load placed on the engine by running the compressor/evaporator. > There is another thing to consider: On some systems there is a > thermostat that senses evaporator air temperature. When the discharge > gets too cold the compressor is turned off. Now if you run the cabin > fan at the lowest setting, the cooling air will tend to be the coldest > so the compressor will stay off for longer intervals. When the fan is at > the highest setting, the discharge air from the evaporator will be a > warmer and the thermostat will keep the compressor running longer trying > to compensate, using more engine power and fuel. So if you want to save > fuel, run the A/C at the slowest fan setting that provides comfort.
I believe the fan draws less power than running the compressor, so given the choice of turning the thermostat up a notch or running the fan a level higher, I opt for running the fan faster.
Response:
The amount of power consumed depends on the difference in the temperature, and the difference in pressure of the freon gas between when it enters the heat exchanger inside your vehicule, and when it leaves the same, heated up after accepting (exchanging) heat from the ambiant hot air. If the inside blower fan is set low, there will be less hot air circulating through the heat exchanger, thus the freon will be less hot, less pressurized, and the AC compressor will draw less horsepower, but in turn you might not get a comfortable inside temperature. If the inside blower is set to a high speed, you will draw morse horsepower, but the car will cool faster. You can set it at a lower speed after the car has cooled down to a comfortable temperature. AC increaseds gas consumption by app 5 – 8% depending on outside temperature, and type/size of vehicule. This amounts to only app 0.50 to 0.75 per hour of operation. Really not much to save. Best savings can be achieved by closing the outside air vent ( or recirculation), else it is like running AC in a house with a window open. WHen I drive off and if my car is very hot inside, I start AC with the oustide vent open because the outside air is not as hot as the inside air, then after a few minutes, I close the vent, so the AC will cool down ambiant air already cooler than the outside air, which reduces AC power, and continues cooling the inside much faster. I never worry about not having outside fresh air to breathe. If you do, open the outside vent for a few minutes every half hour or so. Hope this helps.. Daniel
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or > difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power > regardless. > Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common > sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a > fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the > lowest fan speed.
Response:
> Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or > difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power > regardless. > Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common > sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a > fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the > lowest fan speed.
The faster the cabin fan speed the more electrical power that is required and the greater the load on the generator. So ultimately you do save fuel by running the fan at the lowest setting that maintains comfort. There is another thing to consider: On some systems there is a thermostat that senses evaporator air temperature. When the discharge gets too cold the compressor is turned off. Now if you run the cabin fan at the lowest setting, the cooling air will tend to be the coldest so the compressor will stay off for longer intervals. When the fan is at the highest setting, the discharge air from the evaporator will be a warmer and the thermostat will keep the compressor running longer trying to compensate, using more engine power and fuel. So if you want to save fuel, run the A/C at the slowest fan setting that provides comfort.
Response:
>Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or >difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power >regardless.
With outside air, if you have the fan on a higher speed, you’re moving more warm air to be cooled so the A/C will have to work significantly harder, i.e. the evaporator unit will cycle between the on and off themostat temps more quickly and stay on for longer. On recirc. a higher fan speed should control the temp variation better, especially in extremities of the vehicle space – IOW less oscillation of temperature so the system will work a bit harder. >Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common >sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a >fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the >lowest fan speed.
IMO the highest speeds are only useful for initial cool-down (or warm-up in Winter) and with a window open a bit, for purging out the superhot air from being parked in the sun. I tend to use the lowest speed which is effective, partly because the noise of the fan is annoying. I find that, with the newer cars with the pollen/dust filters, the lowest speed is often just too low to be useful. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??
Response:
Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power regardless. Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the lowest fan speed.
Response:
On most cars the low fan speeds are achieved by burning a bunch of heat off by switching big power resistors into the fan circuit. I don’t know if new cars use a switched electronic speed control but either way you’re not really conserving much power… As for the difference in temperature situation, I believe that the cycle time of the compressor is related to temperature difference through the refrigerant pressure. (<– A Guess) The clutch in the compressor uses power to hold itself on and the rad fans are on as well. Craig.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or > difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power > regardless. > Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common > sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a > fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the > lowest fan speed.
Response:
Yes, it’s a normal thing when the weather is humid… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >’96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold >steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also >happened during rain shower. >Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
Response:
Sounds like it is operating like normal, that is a result of humidity. JP
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ‘96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold > steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also > happened during rain shower. > Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
Response:
‘96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also happened during rain shower. Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
Response:
I’m having the same problem with a ‘99 EX V6, 1000 miles in-service so far. The vapor isn’t a problem per se, but in addition to this, I have serious condensation on the floor vent on the passenger side and the vent sounds louder than normal, almost like it’s blocked. Problem sound familiar to anyone? > ‘96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold > steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also > happened during rain shower. > Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
– Chris Williams, Dept 3E10, ESN 351-7656, RTP, NC People who live in glass houses might as well answer the door.
Response:
I checked my belt, and found it somewhat oily. I know I have an oil leak around there, but I wanted to see what all I could get working before making the costly investment to fix the oil leak. I think that as the engine warms up, the belts warm up, and the warmer oil & belts cause them to start slipping, making the red light come on. If you don’t have an oil problem like mine, I’d suggest replacing those belts over there. Rob
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On my 92 Prelude, I have a similar problem… it started occuring on > high-rev take-offs, now it happens whenever the temperature outside is > over 70 degrees, and the car’s been running for, say, 10 minutes. > Are there any temperature-related A/C cutoffs like this? Or is it only > the RPM-matching difference that causes the computer to shut off the > A/C? > -Buzz > —— >I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. >After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little >red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that >indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, >and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other >times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which >case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and >they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the >compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had >this A/C problem. >Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to >fix it?? >Thanks, >Rob
Response:
Robert, I just posted this exact issue about my ‘88 Prelude! The charge in mine is good, but I have started getting the same red light you describe after driving a while ( I never even knew the red light was there before, and I’ve had the car since new). Cycling the motor off then back on makes mine cool for a while too. I added a can of R-12 just in case, and that took away the activity in the sight glass, but the problem is still there. It just started recently. Air flow is good, aux. fan works, vent thermostat is clicking… If you find out what that red light is, please let me know what fixes it, and I will keep your e-mail address if i fix mine.
Response:
On my 92 Prelude, I have a similar problem… it started occuring on high-rev take-offs, now it happens whenever the temperature outside is over 70 degrees, and the car’s been running for, say, 10 minutes. Are there any temperature-related A/C cutoffs like this? Or is it only the RPM-matching difference that causes the computer to shut off the A/C? -Buzz —— – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. >After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little >red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that >indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, >and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other >times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which >case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and >they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the >compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had >this A/C problem. >Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to >fix it?? >Thanks, >Rob
Response:
So it could be as simple as the belt getting warm & slipping? That’s encouraging! Thanks for the help!!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The reason why the red light comes on is because the belt that drives > the A/C compressor also drives the alternator. Honda doesn’t want you to > loose the charging system if the A/C compressor fails so it will shut > off the compressor if there is a problem. The system counts compressor > RPM and matches it against engine RPM. If the two aren’t the same it > shuts the A/C off. That’s when the red light comes on. Find the reason > why there is a difference in RPM, and you will find your problem. > Robert. > I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. > After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little > red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that > indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, > and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other > times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which > case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and > they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the > compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had > this A/C problem. > Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to > fix it?? > Thanks, > Rob
Response:
It’s probably coming on from a low A/C charge.
Response:
The reason why the red light comes on is because the belt that drives the A/C compressor also drives the alternator. Honda doesn’t want you to loose the charging system if the A/C compressor fails so it will shut off the compressor if there is a problem. The system counts compressor RPM and matches it against engine RPM. If the two aren’t the same it shuts the A/C off. That’s when the red light comes on. Find the reason why there is a difference in RPM, and you will find your problem. Robert. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. > After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little > red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that > indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, > and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other > times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which > case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and > they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the > compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had > this A/C problem. > Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to > fix it?? > Thanks, > Rob
Response:
I have a ‘91 Prelude. The A/C runs great when it runs- cools just fine. After the car gets warmed up, though, it just stops working, and a little red light becomes lit on the A/C dash button, below the green light that indicates that it’s on. Sometimes I can turn the A/C off & then on again, and it’ll work for a little while before the red light comes back. Other times I have to cut the ignition (restart) to get it working again, in which case it still only works for a little while. I took it to a small shop, and they charged the freon & added a UV dye- when checked, it shows that the compressor is leaking some, but I’ve had it for a year, and it’s always had this A/C problem. Anybody know what causes the red light to come on? Or better yet, how to fix it?? Thanks, Rob
Response:
> The amount of power consumed depends on the difference in the temperature, > and the difference in pressure of the freon gas between when it enters the > heat exchanger inside your vehicule, and when it leaves the same, heated up > after accepting (exchanging) heat from the ambiant hot air.
thanks for everyone’s great answers. I’ll stick to using low fan with recirc.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed > or >difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power >regardless. >Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because > common >sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C > draws a >fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use > the >lowest fan speed. > The faster the cabin fan speed the more electrical power that is > required and the greater the load on the generator. So ultimately you do > save fuel by running the fan at the lowest setting that maintains > comfort.
This ignores the <greater?> load placed on the engine by running the compressor/evaporator. > There is another thing to consider: On some systems there is a > thermostat that senses evaporator air temperature. When the discharge > gets too cold the compressor is turned off. Now if you run the cabin > fan at the lowest setting, the cooling air will tend to be the coldest > so the compressor will stay off for longer intervals. When the fan is at > the highest setting, the discharge air from the evaporator will be a > warmer and the thermostat will keep the compressor running longer trying > to compensate, using more engine power and fuel. So if you want to save > fuel, run the A/C at the slowest fan setting that provides comfort.
I believe the fan draws less power than running the compressor, so given the choice of turning the thermostat up a notch or running the fan a level higher, I opt for running the fan faster.
Response:
The amount of power consumed depends on the difference in the temperature, and the difference in pressure of the freon gas between when it enters the heat exchanger inside your vehicule, and when it leaves the same, heated up after accepting (exchanging) heat from the ambiant hot air. If the inside blower fan is set low, there will be less hot air circulating through the heat exchanger, thus the freon will be less hot, less pressurized, and the AC compressor will draw less horsepower, but in turn you might not get a comfortable inside temperature. If the inside blower is set to a high speed, you will draw morse horsepower, but the car will cool faster. You can set it at a lower speed after the car has cooled down to a comfortable temperature. AC increaseds gas consumption by app 5 – 8% depending on outside temperature, and type/size of vehicule. This amounts to only app 0.50 to 0.75 per hour of operation. Really not much to save. Best savings can be achieved by closing the outside air vent ( or recirculation), else it is like running AC in a house with a window open. WHen I drive off and if my car is very hot inside, I start AC with the oustide vent open because the outside air is not as hot as the inside air, then after a few minutes, I close the vent, so the AC will cool down ambiant air already cooler than the outside air, which reduces AC power, and continues cooling the inside much faster. I never worry about not having outside fresh air to breathe. If you do, open the outside vent for a few minutes every half hour or so. Hope this helps.. Daniel
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or > difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power > regardless. > Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common > sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a > fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the > lowest fan speed.
Response:
> Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or > difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power > regardless. > Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common > sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a > fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the > lowest fan speed.
The faster the cabin fan speed the more electrical power that is required and the greater the load on the generator. So ultimately you do save fuel by running the fan at the lowest setting that maintains comfort. There is another thing to consider: On some systems there is a thermostat that senses evaporator air temperature. When the discharge gets too cold the compressor is turned off. Now if you run the cabin fan at the lowest setting, the cooling air will tend to be the coldest so the compressor will stay off for longer intervals. When the fan is at the highest setting, the discharge air from the evaporator will be a warmer and the thermostat will keep the compressor running longer trying to compensate, using more engine power and fuel. So if you want to save fuel, run the A/C at the slowest fan setting that provides comfort.
Response:
>Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or >difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power >regardless.
With outside air, if you have the fan on a higher speed, you’re moving more warm air to be cooled so the A/C will have to work significantly harder, i.e. the evaporator unit will cycle between the on and off themostat temps more quickly and stay on for longer. On recirc. a higher fan speed should control the temp variation better, especially in extremities of the vehicle space – IOW less oscillation of temperature so the system will work a bit harder. >Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common >sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a >fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the >lowest fan speed.
IMO the highest speeds are only useful for initial cool-down (or warm-up in Winter) and with a window open a bit, for purging out the superhot air from being parked in the sun. I tend to use the lowest speed which is effective, partly because the noise of the fan is annoying. I find that, with the newer cars with the pollen/dust filters, the lowest speed is often just too low to be useful. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??
Response:
Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power regardless. Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the lowest fan speed.
Response:
On most cars the low fan speeds are achieved by burning a bunch of heat off by switching big power resistors into the fan circuit. I don’t know if new cars use a switched electronic speed control but either way you’re not really conserving much power… As for the difference in temperature situation, I believe that the cycle time of the compressor is related to temperature difference through the refrigerant pressure. (<– A Guess) The clutch in the compressor uses power to hold itself on and the rad fans are on as well. Craig.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the amount of power that the A/C unit draws depend on fan speed or > difference in temperature? Or does it draw the same amount of power > regardless. > Currently I try to only use the lowest fan speed with A/C because common > sense would indicate that it would be more frugal. But if the A/C draws a > fixed amount of power, then it would actually be more wasteful to use the > lowest fan speed.
Response:
Yes, it’s a normal thing when the weather is humid… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >’96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold >steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also >happened during rain shower. >Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
Response:
Sounds like it is operating like normal, that is a result of humidity. JP
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ‘96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold > steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also > happened during rain shower. > Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
Response:
‘96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also happened during rain shower. Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
Response:
I’m having the same problem with a ‘99 EX V6, 1000 miles in-service so far. The vapor isn’t a problem per se, but in addition to this, I have serious condensation on the floor vent on the passenger side and the vent sounds louder than normal, almost like it’s blocked. Problem sound familiar to anyone? > ‘96 DX 5 speed ; After about 1 hour with A/C on I get vapour (like cold > steam) coming out of dash vent (middle). Outside temp. about 80 – 90 F. Also > happened during rain shower. > Anyone else have this happening? Is it a problem??
– Chris Williams, Dept 3E10, ESN 351-7656, RTP, NC People who live in glass houses might as well answer the door.
