83 Suburban k2500 Driveshaft INFO
Question:
fiddy bucks or so
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> its the overdrive 700 r4. How much does it cost to balance a driveshaft? Just > curious
Response:
Maybe mine with its "couple of nickle/quarter sized dents" will be balanceable? Any ideas? I guess I will need to find a place that works on them in my town.
Response:
I dunno… I don’t think so. It changes where the center of gravity is on the shaft (bringing it out of the center of the shaft). I’d just find a buddy who owes you something and take his shaft (bout a 10 minute job with an 7/16 (I believe) box-end wrench and forget about having it balanced. Put your shaft in for ‘em too… 
If cash is really tight, you could get a GOOD looking shaft out the yard and try it in your truck. Slowly bring it up to speed, and see what happens… ~KJ~
> Maybe mine with its "couple of nickle/quarter sized dents" will be balanceable? > Any ideas? I guess I will need to find a place that works on them in my
town.
Response:
1/2T Suburbans had 12blt rear-ends till, I think, ‘82. 10blt after that. The U-joint for a 12blt is smaller across(dont ask me why). For the 10blt 1/2T and the 14blt 3/4T the u-joint should swap with no problem. Length is the major point that needs attention. The slip yoke can be swapped from yours, and u-joints should be replaced on a junk yard ’shaft anyway! As mentioned by KJ, have the ’shaft balanced.
| What do you mean "the only issue" as in the u-joint wont fit, needs to be | replaced, or ?
Response:
WOW, awesome information, I DO appreciate you filling me in.
Response:
I do my best, with as few inaccuracies as possible…
| WOW, awesome information, I DO appreciate you filling me in.
Response:
from 88 on the Xfer case is the NP 241
> ’73-’80’s have an NP203 T-case and I am pretty sure that they are a
different length than the ‘81-’91 > NP208’s!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | > | > Pretty sure you just need the drive shaft off of a chevy/GMC 74-91 > | Suburban/ > | > K15/2500/sierra (Just not a blazer/jimmy) with the same transmission > | (300, > | > 400, or 700) as you. The easiest way to tell which transmission to pull > | the > | > shaft out of is just remember the shape of the > | > | PAN on the > | shape of the pan… > | > | > one you have. You don’t even > | > need to know what the type is, just remember the shape when your pullin > | > yourself a new drive shaft. I also think that you could bring the ‘new’ > | > shaft into a drive line shop to have it checked for balance for > | > not-that-much (a ‘worth it’) price. Have fun! > | > > | > ~KJ~ > | > Disclaimer: Well know for ass-talking-out-of-ness > | > > | > > I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears > | > to > | > > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a > | > lot, so > | > > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not > | sure > | > if > | > > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a > | > better > | > > option? Thanks > | > > | > > | > |
Response:
As long as you locate an ‘81-’91 Suburban with you same trans. and 2 or 4 wheel drive setup, the rear u-joint should be the only issue!
| I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears to | have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a lot, so | I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not sure if | this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a better | option? Thanks
Response:
’73-’80’s have an NP203 T-case and I am pretty sure that they are a different length than the ‘81-’91 NP208’s!
|
| > Pretty sure you just need the drive shaft off of a chevy/GMC 74-91 | Suburban/ | > K15/2500/sierra (Just not a blazer/jimmy) with the same transmission | (300, | > 400, or 700) as you. The easiest way to tell which transmission to pull | the | > shaft out of is just remember the shape of the | | PAN on the | shape of the pan… | | > one you have. You don’t even | > need to know what the type is, just remember the shape when your pullin | > yourself a new drive shaft. I also think that you could bring the ‘new’ | > shaft into a drive line shop to have it checked for balance for | > not-that-much (a ‘worth it’) price. Have fun! | > | > ~KJ~ | > Disclaimer: Well know for ass-talking-out-of-ness | > | > > I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears | > to | > > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a | > lot, so | > > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not | sure | > if | > > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a | > better | > > option? Thanks | > | > | |
Response:
Thanks for all the info. I DO appreciate it
Response:
Automatic ‘73-’79’s had NP203’s. Standards had NP205’s. ALL 1980s had NP205’s. ‘81 up is a little fuzzy for me….. with the 208’s
> ’73-’80’s have an NP203 T-case and I am pretty sure that they are a
different length than the ‘81-’91 > NP208’s!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | > | > Pretty sure you just need the drive shaft off of a chevy/GMC 74-91 > | Suburban/ > | > K15/2500/sierra (Just not a blazer/jimmy) with the same transmission > | (300, > | > 400, or 700) as you. The easiest way to tell which transmission to pull > | the > | > shaft out of is just remember the shape of the > | > | PAN on the > | shape of the pan… > | > | > one you have. You don’t even > | > need to know what the type is, just remember the shape when your pullin > | > yourself a new drive shaft. I also think that you could bring the ‘new’ > | > shaft into a drive line shop to have it checked for balance for > | > not-that-much (a ‘worth it’) price. Have fun! > | > > | > ~KJ~ > | > Disclaimer: Well know for ass-talking-out-of-ness > | > > | > > I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears > | > to > | > > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a > | > lot, so > | > > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not > | sure > | > if > | > > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a > | > better > | > > option? Thanks > | > > | > > | > |
Response:
Never had it done. I bet the drive line company will tell you before they do the work though ~KJ~
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> its the overdrive 700 r4. How much does it cost to balance a driveshaft? Just > curious
Response:
I lost a driveline on the freeway once too. Broke one of the ends off. From memory it was $50 to have fixed, and they checked the balance as well.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears to > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a lot, so > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not sure if > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a better > option? Thanks
Response:
its the overdrive 700 r4. How much does it cost to balance a driveshaft? Just curious
Response:
What do you mean "the only issue" as in the u-joint wont fit, needs to be replaced, or ?
Response:
Good point, didn’t even think about that. So 81-91 for the year range to the OP. ~KJ~
> ’73-’80’s have an NP203 T-case and I am pretty sure that they are a
different length than the ‘81-’91 > NP208’s!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | > | > Pretty sure you just need the drive shaft off of a chevy/GMC 74-91 > | Suburban/ > | > K15/2500/sierra (Just not a blazer/jimmy) with the same transmission > | (300, > | > 400, or 700) as you. The easiest way to tell which transmission to pull > | the > | > shaft out of is just remember the shape of the > | > | PAN on the > | shape of the pan… > | > | > one you have. You don’t even > | > need to know what the type is, just remember the shape when your pullin > | > yourself a new drive shaft. I also think that you could bring the ‘new’ > | > shaft into a drive line shop to have it checked for balance for > | > not-that-much (a ‘worth it’) price. Have fun! > | > > | > ~KJ~ > | > Disclaimer: Well know for ass-talking-out-of-ness > | > > | > > I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears > | > to > | > > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a > | > lot, so > | > > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not > | sure > | > if > | > > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a > | > better > | > > option? Thanks > | > > | > > | > |
Response:
> Pretty sure you just need the drive shaft off of a chevy/GMC 74-91 Suburban/ > K15/2500/sierra (Just not a blazer/jimmy) with the same transmission (300, > 400, or 700) as you. The easiest way to tell which transmission to pull the > shaft out of is just remember the shape of the
PAN on the shape of the pan… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> one you have. You don’t even > need to know what the type is, just remember the shape when your pullin > yourself a new drive shaft. I also think that you could bring the ‘new’ > shaft into a drive line shop to have it checked for balance for > not-that-much (a ‘worth it’) price. Have fun! > ~KJ~ > Disclaimer: Well know for ass-talking-out-of-ness > I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears > to > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a > lot, so > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not sure > if > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a > better > option? Thanks
Response:
I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears to have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a lot, so I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not sure if this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a better option? Thanks
Response:
Pretty sure you just need the drive shaft off of a chevy/GMC 74-91 Suburban/ K15/2500/sierra (Just not a blazer/jimmy) with the same transmission (300, 400, or 700) as you. The easiest way to tell which transmission to pull the shaft out of is just remember the shape of the one you have. You don’t even need to know what the type is, just remember the shape when your pullin yourself a new drive shaft. I also think that you could bring the ‘new’ shaft into a drive line shop to have it checked for balance for not-that-much (a ‘worth it’) price. Have fun! ~KJ~ Disclaimer: Well know for ass-talking-out-of-ness
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I threw the u-joint while doing down the freeway. My Driveshaft appears to > have suffered a few dents from the incident. Its not a truck I drive a lot, so > I was thinking of going to get a nicer one from a junk yard, but not sure if > this drive shaft is Suburban 3/4 ton 4×4 specific or not. Is there a better > option? Thanks
