wheels
Question:
something like: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >This coming from the same guy that > >asked if he needed oil in his engine… > >– > >92′ EB Explorer, JBL, 4×4 > >Please Visit My Explorer Page… > >http://home1.gte.net/1ateam/explorer/index.html > >> How many wheels have a Ford Capri? > >The answer is 4…. > …Plus a spare in the trunk, and the one just inside the front door > with the big nut behind it. >I thought those models had 10…..2 front, 2 rear, 2 on the left, 2 on >the right, 1 spare and 1 inside with the nut behind it <g>.
I knew I could count on you guys…
Response:
>This coming from the same guy that >asked if he needed oil in his engine… >– >92′ EB Explorer, JBL, 4×4 >Please Visit My Explorer Page… >http://home1.gte.net/1ateam/explorer/index.html > How many wheels have a Ford Capri? >The answer is 4….
…Plus a spare in the trunk, and the one just inside the front door with the big nut behind it.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->This coming from the same guy that >asked if he needed oil in his engine… >– >92′ EB Explorer, JBL, 4×4 >Please Visit My Explorer Page… >http://home1.gte.net/1ateam/explorer/index.html >> How many wheels have a Ford Capri? >The answer is 4…. > …Plus a spare in the trunk, and the one just inside the front door > with the big nut behind it.
I thought those models had 10…..2 front, 2 rear, 2 on the left, 2 on the right, 1 spare and 1 inside with the nut behind it <g>.
Response:
This coming from the same guy that asked if he needed oil in his engine… — 92′ EB Explorer, JBL, 4×4 Please Visit My Explorer Page… http://home1.gte.net/1ateam/explorer/index.html > How many wheels have a Ford Capri?
The answer is 4….
Response:
I am running a K2500 Suburban with 305/70r16’s on 16×8 Mickey Thompson Classic II’s with no rubbing. I did a little bit of trimming which can be seen in one ofthe photo’s here : photos.yahoo.com/daniel_r_finn which was in the rear of the front wheel well. I was only getting the rubbing on the passenger side, but I trimmed the driver saide as well, for continuity. Youwon’t see the trimming, unless you know to look for it. Look at the offset of thye wheels as well, the MT Classic II’1 have an offset of 0 so they are not changingthe geomerty ofthe stearing components from the stock configuration. Also note that I do not have a stock front bumper, so I don’t have to worry about any rubbing up there. Many talk of just needing to trim the front bumper a little as well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I just bought a 1995 GMC K2500 and love it. I would like to put some >nicer looking rims and bigger tires on it, without a lift. Although >this would be mostly for looks; I do plan on towing a small runabout >boat and taking it on 4 wheel drive trails in the Rocky mountains to >get to remote camp sites. > I have heard about some backspacing ‘gotchas’ when buying wheels for >older gmc trucks. I was wondering if anybody has already done this? Or >had any suggestions? >I dont want to spend a TON of money. I want the wheels to look good, >but tough enough for some ruff riding. And I am not sure what size >tires will actually fit without a lift. I am going to have this talk >with a buddy who owns a tire store, but would like to get as much info >as possible. Rim/Tire Brands? Sizes? Bargains? What to watch for? What >NOT to get? >Any suggestiong or opinions would be helpful. >–Mike Dugan
Dan Finn 1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 454 ff14-bolt 4.10 TJM T13 Bumper, Mickey Thompson Classic II 16×8 GoodYear AT/S 305/70r16, Kendall, SIG P226
Response:
Thanks for your input everybody, I am taking notes 
Mike Dugan
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What kind of tires do you run, Dean? I paid 1800 dollars to get mine to stop rubbing…but it was tearing up my tread lugs on the outside and my wife was cringing everything I backed out of the drive way…LOL Gotta love her. HH
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mike, > I have a ‘95 K2500 Suburban. I run LT265X75R16s LREs on 16X7 Alcoa > Classic forged aluminum wheels. They are stronger than the steel wheels > they replace and 15 lb. lighter. So I get a better ride on the highway > and have mighty tough wheels. The reason I use 16X7 is so that I don’t > rip a valve stem off on rocks, logs, etc. I let the tire sidewall absorb > the punishment. > Happy is right. They barely run in front but only when turning sharply > while compressing the suspension, like leaving a driveway. Not an issue > for me. > Dean >I just bought a 1995 GMC K2500 and love it. I would like to put some >nicer looking rims and bigger tires on it, without a lift. Although >this would be mostly for looks; I do plan on towing a small runabout >boat and taking it on 4 wheel drive trails in the Rocky mountains to >get to remote camp sites. > I have heard about some backspacing ‘gotchas’ when buying wheels for >older gmc trucks. I was wondering if anybody has already done this? Or >had any suggestions? >I dont want to spend a TON of money. I want the wheels to look good, >but tough enough for some ruff riding. And I am not sure what size >tires will actually fit without a lift. I am going to have this talk >with a buddy who owns a tire store, but would like to get as much info >as possible. Rim/Tire Brands? Sizes? Bargains? What to watch for? What >NOT to get? >Any suggestiong or opinions would be helpful. >–Mike Dugan
Response:
Happy, Firestone Steeltex Radial ATs. They are the toughest tire I have ever run. Can’t hurt them and they wear like iron. I get about 70k miles out of a set, and that’s on a 7000 lb curb weight Suburban! On mine the tires rubbed on the heads of the screws that hold the outer and inner fenderwell together, at the outside lip of the fender. The tires have worn the heads away enough I really have to work at it to get them to rub now. Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >What kind of tires do you run, Dean? >I paid 1800 dollars to get mine to stop rubbing…but it was tearing up my >tread lugs on the outside and my wife was cringing everything I backed out >of the drive way…LOL Gotta love her. >HH >Mike, >I have a ‘95 K2500 Suburban. I run LT265X75R16s LREs on 16X7 Alcoa >Classic forged aluminum wheels. They are stronger than the steel wheels >they replace and 15 lb. lighter. So I get a better ride on the highway >and have mighty tough wheels. The reason I use 16X7 is so that I don’t >rip a valve stem off on rocks, logs, etc. I let the tire sidewall absorb >the punishment. >Happy is right. They barely run in front but only when turning sharply >while compressing the suspension, like leaving a driveway. Not an issue >for me. >Dean >>I just bought a 1995 GMC K2500 and love it. I would like to put some >>nicer looking rims and bigger tires on it, without a lift. Although >>this would be mostly for looks; I do plan on towing a small runabout >>boat and taking it on 4 wheel drive trails in the Rocky mountains to >>get to remote camp sites. >> I have heard about some backspacing ‘gotchas’ when buying wheels for >>older gmc trucks. I was wondering if anybody has already done this? Or >>had any suggestions? >>I dont want to spend a TON of money. I want the wheels to look good, >>but tough enough for some ruff riding. And I am not sure what size >>tires will actually fit without a lift. I am going to have this talk >>with a buddy who owns a tire store, but would like to get as much info >>as possible. Rim/Tire Brands? Sizes? Bargains? What to watch for? What >>NOT to get? >>Any suggestiong or opinions would be helpful. >>–Mike Dugan
Response:
I just bought a 1995 GMC K2500 and love it. I would like to put some nicer looking rims and bigger tires on it, without a lift. Although this would be mostly for looks; I do plan on towing a small runabout boat and taking it on 4 wheel drive trails in the Rocky mountains to get to remote camp sites. I have heard about some backspacing ‘gotchas’ when buying wheels for older gmc trucks. I was wondering if anybody has already done this? Or had any suggestions? I dont want to spend a TON of money. I want the wheels to look good, but tough enough for some ruff riding. And I am not sure what size tires will actually fit without a lift. I am going to have this talk with a buddy who owns a tire store, but would like to get as much info as possible. Rim/Tire Brands? Sizes? Bargains? What to watch for? What NOT to get? Any suggestiong or opinions would be helpful. –Mike Dugan
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Back spacing and forward spacing rims look neat. However, they change the stress points on your axle and ball joints. I would not recommend them for anything other than street application on a rig you plan to sell in 2 or 3 years to someone you’ll never meet again and you don’t care about karma. 
) Seriously…if you want to run bigger tires, I can tell you that 265/75-16’s in BFG Mud Terrains rub slightly on the front bumper during turns. You can trim a notch off the corner of the bumper and get by. Otherwise, chose a smaller tire…but you won’t be much bigger than OEM if you do. If you do the back space wheels, upgrade your ball joints at the same time. I assume you have a full floating 14 bolt rear end…if not, you may want to consider upgrading to a full floater. HH
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just bought a 1995 GMC K2500 and love it. I would like to put some > nicer looking rims and bigger tires on it, without a lift. Although > this would be mostly for looks; I do plan on towing a small runabout > boat and taking it on 4 wheel drive trails in the Rocky mountains to > get to remote camp sites. > I have heard about some backspacing ‘gotchas’ when buying wheels for > older gmc trucks. I was wondering if anybody has already done this? Or > had any suggestions? > I dont want to spend a TON of money. I want the wheels to look good, > but tough enough for some ruff riding. And I am not sure what size > tires will actually fit without a lift. I am going to have this talk > with a buddy who owns a tire store, but would like to get as much info > as possible. Rim/Tire Brands? Sizes? Bargains? What to watch for? What > NOT to get? > Any suggestiong or opinions would be helpful. > –Mike Dugan
Response:
Mike, I have a ‘95 K2500 Suburban. I run LT265X75R16s LREs on 16X7 Alcoa Classic forged aluminum wheels. They are stronger than the steel wheels they replace and 15 lb. lighter. So I get a better ride on the highway and have mighty tough wheels. The reason I use 16X7 is so that I don’t rip a valve stem off on rocks, logs, etc. I let the tire sidewall absorb the punishment. Happy is right. They barely run in front but only when turning sharply while compressing the suspension, like leaving a driveway. Not an issue for me. Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I just bought a 1995 GMC K2500 and love it. I would like to put some >nicer looking rims and bigger tires on it, without a lift. Although >this would be mostly for looks; I do plan on towing a small runabout >boat and taking it on 4 wheel drive trails in the Rocky mountains to >get to remote camp sites. > I have heard about some backspacing ‘gotchas’ when buying wheels for >older gmc trucks. I was wondering if anybody has already done this? Or >had any suggestions? >I dont want to spend a TON of money. I want the wheels to look good, >but tough enough for some ruff riding. And I am not sure what size >tires will actually fit without a lift. I am going to have this talk >with a buddy who owns a tire store, but would like to get as much info >as possible. Rim/Tire Brands? Sizes? Bargains? What to watch for? What >NOT to get? >Any suggestiong or opinions would be helpful. >–Mike Dugan
Response:
did chevy make a 16 inch wheel with a 6 5.5 bolt pattern on the newer 4×4’s
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all chevy K1500 4×4’s have the 6×5.5 bolt pattern, and from 88-current, they are 16" x6.5" or 16"x7" with 5" backspacing. the new style silverado/sierra 1500 trucks have the 6×5.5" pattern for both 2 and 4 wheel drive – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > did chevy make a 16 inch wheel with a 6 5.5 bolt pattern on the newer 4×4’s
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Are spinergy or the new rolf 20/24 wheels worth it? They don’t seems like they are that much lighter than decent 32 spoke wheels, so is it just because they look cool or what?
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Those certainly are trick wheels but IMHO, I think Mavic makes the best. They are more reliable and depending on the hubs, spokes and tires used with the rim, can even be lighter than Spinergy’s or Rolfs. – CA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Are spinergy or the new rolf 20/24 wheels worth it? They don’t seems like >they are that much lighter than decent 32 spoke wheels, so is it just >because they look cool or what?
Response:
>Then, learn to build wheels and you’ll be able to ride stairs with >impunity. Rebuilding the wheel AND the book that tells you how to do >it will cost a LOT less than a new wheel, and will be infinitely more >zen-like a thing to do.
And you’ll have no one else to blame but yourself when your wheel collapses on a long set of stairs ) – CA
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you probably have more than enough to buy the rim ( MAVIC 517 ), xt hub and cassett , and DT stainless spokes . MOUNTAIN GOHER
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>I recently had to put my rear rim out of it’s misery after a couple too many >flights of stairs on my Trek. I don’t want to drop too much money (under >$130) into this repair but I still want a rim that is gonna last me a while. >The rim I have is Treks old stock Matrix Swami. I’m looking at either >keeping my Deore LX hub and getting a new hoop and spokes, or I could just >get the new wheel. I was looking at either a mavic X 517 or a D 521. >Should I go for rebuilding the wheel or get everything new. Also are there >any real good rims/wheels I could look at in this price range?
There are lots of great rims that you should be happy with. If you make a habit of riding down stairs, I’d seriously suggest buying heavy and cheap rims. Something in the 450g+ range (Ritchey SCX Comp) should do nicely unless you’re a beast – in which case you might consider something like the Sun Rhyno (which is ~540g) or Bontrager Clydesdale (at about 510g). Then, learn to build wheels and you’ll be able to ride stairs with impunity. Rebuilding the wheel AND the book that tells you how to do it will cost a LOT less than a new wheel, and will be infinitely more zen-like a thing to do. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.cynetfl.com/habanero/ Home of the $695 ti frame
Response:
I recently had to put my rear rim out of it’s misery after a couple too many flights of stairs on my Trek. I don’t want to drop too much money (under $130) into this repair but I still want a rim that is gonna last me a while. The rim I have is Treks old stock Matrix Swami. I’m looking at either keeping my Deore LX hub and getting a new hoop and spokes, or I could just get the new wheel. I was looking at either a mavic X 517 or a D 521. Should I go for rebuilding the wheel or get everything new. Also are there any real good rims/wheels I could look at in this price range? — Robert Armiger
Response:
Are spinergy or the new rolf 20/24 wheels worth it? They don’t seems like they are that much lighter than decent 32 spoke wheels, so is it just because they look cool or what?
Response:
Those certainly are trick wheels but IMHO, I think Mavic makes the best. They are more reliable and depending on the hubs, spokes and tires used with the rim, can even be lighter than Spinergy’s or Rolfs. – CA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Are spinergy or the new rolf 20/24 wheels worth it? They don’t seems like >they are that much lighter than decent 32 spoke wheels, so is it just >because they look cool or what?
Response:
>Then, learn to build wheels and you’ll be able to ride stairs with >impunity. Rebuilding the wheel AND the book that tells you how to do >it will cost a LOT less than a new wheel, and will be infinitely more >zen-like a thing to do.
And you’ll have no one else to blame but yourself when your wheel collapses on a long set of stairs ) – CA
Response:
you probably have more than enough to buy the rim ( MAVIC 517 ), xt hub and cassett , and DT stainless spokes . MOUNTAIN GOHER
Response:
>I recently had to put my rear rim out of it’s misery after a couple too many >flights of stairs on my Trek. I don’t want to drop too much money (under >$130) into this repair but I still want a rim that is gonna last me a while. >The rim I have is Treks old stock Matrix Swami. I’m looking at either >keeping my Deore LX hub and getting a new hoop and spokes, or I could just >get the new wheel. I was looking at either a mavic X 517 or a D 521. >Should I go for rebuilding the wheel or get everything new. Also are there >any real good rims/wheels I could look at in this price range?
There are lots of great rims that you should be happy with. If you make a habit of riding down stairs, I’d seriously suggest buying heavy and cheap rims. Something in the 450g+ range (Ritchey SCX Comp) should do nicely unless you’re a beast – in which case you might consider something like the Sun Rhyno (which is ~540g) or Bontrager Clydesdale (at about 510g). Then, learn to build wheels and you’ll be able to ride stairs with impunity. Rebuilding the wheel AND the book that tells you how to do it will cost a LOT less than a new wheel, and will be infinitely more zen-like a thing to do. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.cynetfl.com/habanero/ Home of the $695 ti frame
Response:
I recently had to put my rear rim out of it’s misery after a couple too many flights of stairs on my Trek. I don’t want to drop too much money (under $130) into this repair but I still want a rim that is gonna last me a while. The rim I have is Treks old stock Matrix Swami. I’m looking at either keeping my Deore LX hub and getting a new hoop and spokes, or I could just get the new wheel. I was looking at either a mavic X 517 or a D 521. Should I go for rebuilding the wheel or get everything new. Also are there any real good rims/wheels I could look at in this price range? — Robert Armiger
Response:
Are spinergy or the new rolf 20/24 wheels worth it? They don’t seems like they are that much lighter than decent 32 spoke wheels, so is it just because they look cool or what?
Response:
Those certainly are trick wheels but IMHO, I think Mavic makes the best. They are more reliable and depending on the hubs, spokes and tires used with the rim, can even be lighter than Spinergy’s or Rolfs. – CA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Are spinergy or the new rolf 20/24 wheels worth it? They don’t seems like >they are that much lighter than decent 32 spoke wheels, so is it just >because they look cool or what?
Response:
>Then, learn to build wheels and you’ll be able to ride stairs with >impunity. Rebuilding the wheel AND the book that tells you how to do >it will cost a LOT less than a new wheel, and will be infinitely more >zen-like a thing to do.
And you’ll have no one else to blame but yourself when your wheel collapses on a long set of stairs ) – CA
Response:
you probably have more than enough to buy the rim ( MAVIC 517 ), xt hub and cassett , and DT stainless spokes . MOUNTAIN GOHER
Response:
>I recently had to put my rear rim out of it’s misery after a couple too many >flights of stairs on my Trek. I don’t want to drop too much money (under >$130) into this repair but I still want a rim that is gonna last me a while. >The rim I have is Treks old stock Matrix Swami. I’m looking at either >keeping my Deore LX hub and getting a new hoop and spokes, or I could just >get the new wheel. I was looking at either a mavic X 517 or a D 521. >Should I go for rebuilding the wheel or get everything new. Also are there >any real good rims/wheels I could look at in this price range?
There are lots of great rims that you should be happy with. If you make a habit of riding down stairs, I’d seriously suggest buying heavy and cheap rims. Something in the 450g+ range (Ritchey SCX Comp) should do nicely unless you’re a beast – in which case you might consider something like the Sun Rhyno (which is ~540g) or Bontrager Clydesdale (at about 510g). Then, learn to build wheels and you’ll be able to ride stairs with impunity. Rebuilding the wheel AND the book that tells you how to do it will cost a LOT less than a new wheel, and will be infinitely more zen-like a thing to do. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.cynetfl.com/habanero/ Home of the $695 ti frame
Response:
I recently had to put my rear rim out of it’s misery after a couple too many flights of stairs on my Trek. I don’t want to drop too much money (under $130) into this repair but I still want a rim that is gonna last me a while. The rim I have is Treks old stock Matrix Swami. I’m looking at either keeping my Deore LX hub and getting a new hoop and spokes, or I could just get the new wheel. I was looking at either a mavic X 517 or a D 521. Should I go for rebuilding the wheel or get everything new. Also are there any real good rims/wheels I could look at in this price range? — Robert Armiger
Response:
i am not saying that 17in = 15in i am saying that 17in with low profile tires will be the same as my 15in wheels with a little bigger tires. I dont know what you were talking bout.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. > dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would > weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. >– >Mech. Engineering >Texas A&M University
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If your rims are heavy than you will have more unsprung mass which essentially will make your car slower. Basically, it will make your engine work harder to turn the wheels. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i am not saying that 17in = 15in > i am saying that 17in with low profile tires will be the same as my 15in > wheels with a little bigger tires. I dont know what you were talking bout. >What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. >> dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they > would >> weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. >– >Mech. Engineering >Texas A&M University
Response:
Right, you can’t just say "well they weigh the same so they should accelerate the same" You also have to take into account how far away that mass is from the center of rotation. This is the concept of rotational inertia and for you well, it goes like mass multiplied by the square of the radius to that mass from the center of rotation. In article <Pine.GSO.3.95.981008165650.16872E- > If your rims are heavy than you will have more unsprung mass which > essentially will make your car slower. Basically, it will make your > engine work harder to turn the wheels.
– Mech. Engineering Texas A&M University
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dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. Even if they are 17in and i have 15in on now. The 17in with the wheels will be the same total diameter as the ones on my car are now. So it wont slow it down but just be the same. Well at least you are happy with your Del Sol, the slow thing that it is. Its good that you wont go through life all pissed off at people. so anyway, does anyone have any opinions about a turbocharger for a prelude. i am in the market for one. Any info will be helpful. I was thinking bout FMAX but not sure. THanks in advance.
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What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. > dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would > weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter.
– Mech. Engineering Texas A&M University
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Na , It’s the drugs. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. > dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would > weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. >– >Mech. Engineering >Texas A&M University
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For every day driving I woulden’t go any bigger than a set of 15" wheels. They will look nice, and you won’t bend them as easy as a set of 17" wheels. One more thing if it is proformance you want, dont be fooled that bigger is better. As you get bigger wheels the weight of the wheel is further out from the center of the hub. It requires more HP to spin the mass the further out it is, If you look at the cars in the Speedvision touring cup, they are all running 15" wheels and they are going plenty fast. OZ
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every > day driving ?
Response:
Thanks to all
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For every day driving I woulden’t go any bigger than a set of 15" wheels. > They will look nice, and you won’t bend them as easy as a set of 17" wheels. > One more thing if it is proformance you want, dont be fooled that bigger is > better. As you get bigger wheels the weight of the wheel is further out > from the center of the hub. It requires more HP to spin the mass the > further out it is, If you look at the cars in the Speedvision touring cup, > they are all running 15" wheels and they are going plenty fast. > OZ > I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every > day driving ?
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I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every day driving ?
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Depends on how you like to drive and how you like to feel the bumps. Stock size wheels and tires are optimized for those drivers who drive as if they want to save gas and don’t want to feel the bumps. For those who would like some more control and better feel in the twisties, and who doesn’t mind feeling a few more bumps, a 16" or 17" rim with a performance tire of less sidewall would do better for them. Of course you can base wheel/tire selection on the purely subjective area of looks. However, please realize that it is a tradeoff between comfort and performance, generally speaking. Geoffe Elias ‘98 Integra GSR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every > day driving ?
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A 16" rim with a 205/45-16 tire is a nice size. If you’re going more for looks, I’d do a 17" with a 205/40-17.
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For what it’s worth, and I make the assumption that your car has stock 14" wheels and 185/60 tires, I recommend going to a Plus 1 configuration (a 15" rim with 195/50 tires). This gives you the advantage of a stiffer sidewall without getting into the harshness of a 40 series tire. This combination makes for an acceptable everyday ride. I’ve done a bunch of shopping and I’m going to buy a set of Bridgestone RE730 tires from Tire Rack when my current tires die. They’re a very decent tire at a very attractive price. I scored a set of alloy wheels for my car from www.discountiredirect.com for $50.00 a piece new. They have closeouts from time-to-time and they’re worth checking out. Hope this helps– Mark 94 Civic Si – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every >day driving ?
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Size of wheel? Finish? Kind of Car? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am thinking about purchasing a set of alba r510’s. I was wondering if >anyone knows the price of these and also some good tire combo’s to go >with them. > david
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I am thinking about purchasing a set of alba r510’s. I was wondering if anyone knows the price of these and also some good tire combo’s to go with them. david
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i am not saying that 17in = 15in i am saying that 17in with low profile tires will be the same as my 15in wheels with a little bigger tires. I dont know what you were talking bout.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. > dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would > weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. >– >Mech. Engineering >Texas A&M University
Response:
If your rims are heavy than you will have more unsprung mass which essentially will make your car slower. Basically, it will make your engine work harder to turn the wheels. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i am not saying that 17in = 15in > i am saying that 17in with low profile tires will be the same as my 15in > wheels with a little bigger tires. I dont know what you were talking bout. >What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. >> dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they > would >> weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. >– >Mech. Engineering >Texas A&M University
Response:
Right, you can’t just say "well they weigh the same so they should accelerate the same" You also have to take into account how far away that mass is from the center of rotation. This is the concept of rotational inertia and for you well, it goes like mass multiplied by the square of the radius to that mass from the center of rotation. In article <Pine.GSO.3.95.981008165650.16872E- > If your rims are heavy than you will have more unsprung mass which > essentially will make your car slower. Basically, it will make your > engine work harder to turn the wheels.
– Mech. Engineering Texas A&M University
Response:
dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. Even if they are 17in and i have 15in on now. The 17in with the wheels will be the same total diameter as the ones on my car are now. So it wont slow it down but just be the same. Well at least you are happy with your Del Sol, the slow thing that it is. Its good that you wont go through life all pissed off at people. so anyway, does anyone have any opinions about a turbocharger for a prelude. i am in the market for one. Any info will be helpful. I was thinking bout FMAX but not sure. THanks in advance.
Response:
What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. > dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would > weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter.
– Mech. Engineering Texas A&M University
Response:
Na , It’s the drugs. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >What????? We’ve really got to put more money into education. > dudes, if i was to get Momo wheels that are like super light then they would > weigh done the car but they would probably be even lighter. >– >Mech. Engineering >Texas A&M University
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For every day driving I woulden’t go any bigger than a set of 15" wheels. They will look nice, and you won’t bend them as easy as a set of 17" wheels. One more thing if it is proformance you want, dont be fooled that bigger is better. As you get bigger wheels the weight of the wheel is further out from the center of the hub. It requires more HP to spin the mass the further out it is, If you look at the cars in the Speedvision touring cup, they are all running 15" wheels and they are going plenty fast. OZ
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every > day driving ?
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Thanks to all
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For every day driving I woulden’t go any bigger than a set of 15" wheels. > They will look nice, and you won’t bend them as easy as a set of 17" wheels. > One more thing if it is proformance you want, dont be fooled that bigger is > better. As you get bigger wheels the weight of the wheel is further out > from the center of the hub. It requires more HP to spin the mass the > further out it is, If you look at the cars in the Speedvision touring cup, > they are all running 15" wheels and they are going plenty fast. > OZ > I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every > day driving ?
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I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every day driving ?
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Depends on how you like to drive and how you like to feel the bumps. Stock size wheels and tires are optimized for those drivers who drive as if they want to save gas and don’t want to feel the bumps. For those who would like some more control and better feel in the twisties, and who doesn’t mind feeling a few more bumps, a 16" or 17" rim with a performance tire of less sidewall would do better for them. Of course you can base wheel/tire selection on the purely subjective area of looks. However, please realize that it is a tradeoff between comfort and performance, generally speaking. Geoffe Elias ‘98 Integra GSR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every > day driving ?
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A 16" rim with a 205/45-16 tire is a nice size. If you’re going more for looks, I’d do a 17" with a 205/40-17.
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For what it’s worth, and I make the assumption that your car has stock 14" wheels and 185/60 tires, I recommend going to a Plus 1 configuration (a 15" rim with 195/50 tires). This gives you the advantage of a stiffer sidewall without getting into the harshness of a 40 series tire. This combination makes for an acceptable everyday ride. I’ve done a bunch of shopping and I’m going to buy a set of Bridgestone RE730 tires from Tire Rack when my current tires die. They’re a very decent tire at a very attractive price. I scored a set of alloy wheels for my car from www.discountiredirect.com for $50.00 a piece new. They have closeouts from time-to-time and they’re worth checking out. Hope this helps– Mark 94 Civic Si – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 97′ civic si , what is the best wheel/tire size combo for every >day driving ?
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Size of wheel? Finish? Kind of Car? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am thinking about purchasing a set of alba r510’s. I was wondering if >anyone knows the price of these and also some good tire combo’s to go >with them. > david
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I am thinking about purchasing a set of alba r510’s. I was wondering if anyone knows the price of these and also some good tire combo’s to go with them. david
