Whats wrong with my Suburban?????
Question:
Check all the things on your front end, sounds stupid but. Jack one tire up, shake it from side to side while looking at the tie rod ends, they should not move. Then grab it on top and bottom, try to move it, there again should be no movement (larger tires you might notice very little) this would indicate your wheel bearings, or ball joints. The very basic problem for cupping is the shocks. Also check all the bushings for being dry and cracked, this will also allow movement. Do this on both sides, and I am confident you will find some slop somewhere. This should have all been checked when you took you truck in for a alignment and pointed out. If you do find something worn, take it to a different alignment shop when you fix it. After 8 years I would be looking at the shocks pretty hard. Also look at the sway bar bushings. Just the basics Grease
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone have a clue? > . I have had the R/F idler arm replaced twice in the last year due to it > wearing out. Tires > are > BF Goodrich All-terrain Radial T/A, with approx. 20K miles. Tire/wheels > have > been balanced/rotated approx. every 3 to 5 K miles. Front brake job > done > about two years ago with new rotors installed. Front end may feel good > for > awhile, and then bounce comes back. Front end alignment done about a > year > ago. Also get a knocking sound when making sharp R/H or L/H turn, > especially up an incline, such as my driveway. Last place I took it > in to > said I need new tires due to cupping, and that this is probably > causing the > bounce. I think it’s the other way around. Bounce is really noticeable > on > hiway between 60 and 70 MPH. Vehicle is a 1992 GMC Suburban and it > does NOT > get driven hard! My wife is the primary drive of the vehicle. > Thanks!!
Response:
> You are correct, cupping is not the cause of the problem; it is a symptom of > the problem, most likely the same problem that is damaging the idler arm. > Cupping can be caused by poor tire balance, worn wheel bearings, > loose/damaged suspension parts, bad ball joints, worn tie rod ends, fatigued > springs, frame damage, weak shock absorbers, or excessive wheel offset (too > much negative backspacing).
How could negative offset wheels cause tire cupping? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Some tires, especially wide tires with a lot of > tread void, like some all-terrain and mud tires are prone to cupping. > You might want to put the stock wheels/tires back on it and see if the > problem goes away. If not, I would take it to a truck alignment specialist, > someone who works on large OTR trucks. Most of them also work on light > trucks. They will be more likely to run through all the possible causes than > most automotive alignment shops. > Good luck! > Dean > Anyone have a clue? > . I have had the R/F idler arm replaced twice in the last year due to it > wearing out. Tires > are > BF Goodrich All-terrain Radial T/A, with approx. 20K miles. Tire/wheels > have > been balanced/rotated approx. every 3 to 5 K miles. Front brake job > done > about two years ago with new rotors installed. Front end may feel good > for > awhile, and then bounce comes back. Front end alignment done about a > year > ago. Also get a knocking sound when making sharp R/H or L/H turn, > especially up an incline, such as my driveway. Last place I took it > in to > said I need new tires due to cupping, and that this is probably > causing the > bounce. I think it’s the other way around. Bounce is really noticeable > on > hiway between 60 and 70 MPH. Vehicle is a 1992 GMC Suburban and it > does NOT > get driven hard! My wife is the primary drive of the vehicle. > Thanks!!
Response:
Anyone have a clue? . I have had the R/F idler arm replaced twice in the last year due to it wearing out. Tires are BF Goodrich All-terrain Radial T/A, with approx. 20K miles. Tire/wheels have been balanced/rotated approx. every 3 to 5 K miles. Front brake job done about two years ago with new rotors installed. Front end may feel good for awhile, and then bounce comes back. Front end alignment done about a year ago. Also get a knocking sound when making sharp R/H or L/H turn, especially up an incline, such as my driveway. Last place I took it in to said I need new tires due to cupping, and that this is probably causing the bounce. I think it’s the other way around. Bounce is really noticeable on hiway between 60 and 70 MPH. Vehicle is a 1992 GMC Suburban and it does NOT get driven hard! My wife is the primary drive of the vehicle. Thanks!!
Response:
With the facts you’ve supplied, someone who knows that suspension system will surely know…I just wish everyone would post info like that…plenty of facts…
Response:
You are correct, cupping is not the cause of the problem; it is a symptom of the problem, most likely the same problem that is damaging the idler arm. Cupping can be caused by poor tire balance, worn wheel bearings, loose/damaged suspension parts, bad ball joints, worn tie rod ends, fatigued springs, frame damage, weak shock absorbers, or excessive wheel offset (too much negative backspacing). Some tires, especially wide tires with a lot of tread void, like some all-terrain and mud tires are prone to cupping. You might want to put the stock wheels/tires back on it and see if the problem goes away. If not, I would take it to a truck alignment specialist, someone who works on large OTR trucks. Most of them also work on light trucks. They will be more likely to run through all the possible causes than most automotive alignment shops. Good luck! Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Anyone have a clue? > . I have had the R/F idler arm replaced twice in the last year due to it > wearing out. Tires > are > BF Goodrich All-terrain Radial T/A, with approx. 20K miles. Tire/wheels > have > been balanced/rotated approx. every 3 to 5 K miles. Front brake job > done > about two years ago with new rotors installed. Front end may feel good > for > awhile, and then bounce comes back. Front end alignment done about a > year > ago. Also get a knocking sound when making sharp R/H or L/H turn, > especially up an incline, such as my driveway. Last place I took it > in to > said I need new tires due to cupping, and that this is probably > causing the > bounce. I think it’s the other way around. Bounce is really noticeable > on > hiway between 60 and 70 MPH. Vehicle is a 1992 GMC Suburban and it > does NOT > get driven hard! My wife is the primary drive of the vehicle. > Thanks!!
