88 GMC K2500 Stalling Problem

Question:

Tim,  You say it dies like you shut off the key. Does it also do it in reverse or just drive? Does it also do it if you put it in drive and hold the brake? How about if you hold the brake and give it some throttle?  From the description I’d almost think it was a problem with the wiring going to the ignition system from the firewall. Like a loose connection or a wire that is grounding out when you put it in gear. Does this vehicle have an security system? — Steve Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Thanks, I figured ignition on meant what it said but, I’m new to this kind > of troubleshooting and had to ask. > 1) Will it do this forever (start, stall) or does it eventually resolve > and > let you get moving? > yes, forever when I put it in drive and apply the gas it dies after moving a > short distance (5-10 ft). > 2) When you tweak the skinny pedal, in neutral, do the revs come up > smoothly > or is it sluggish/rough > You’ll have to let me know what the skinny pedal is. It is smooth in neutral > when I rev it though.  It forever has idled rough until it warmed up. I > kinda excepted it ( the rough idle )with what I’ve read in here over the > years. > 3) Manifold vacuum (in/hg) at idle in neutral?  Manifold vacuum at > 2,500-3,000 rpm in neutral? > I’ll have to get a gauge to test that. What should I see there for a range? > Thanks for everybody’s help so far. > Tim > > Hi, > > Thanks for the info, it worked well but, all it flashes is the number > 12. > Am > > I suppose to start the truck?  All I did was turn the ignition on. > > Tim > No, do NOT start the truck with the ALDL port grounded!  A few more > 1) Will it do this forever (start, stall) or does it eventually resolve > and > let you get moving? > 2) When you tweak the skinny pedal, in neutral, do the revs come up > smoothly > or is it sluggish/rough > 3) Manifold vacuum (in/hg) at idle in neutral?  Manifold vacuum at > 2,500-3,000 rpm in neutral? > Doc > > > Tim, > > > Sorry I wasn’t paying attention to the year (pre 96 you can > > > read without a special reader).  The OBD1 diagnostic > > > connector is by your knees in the driver seat.  Pin A is ground > > > and pin 5 is the Diagnostic terminal.  I think these are usually > > > the top right of the connector, unless it’s mounted upsidedown > > > (look for the tabs and key I depicted with the | and the _ > > > characters): > > >        | > > >   F E D C B A > > >  _G H       M_ > > > And FYI the pins are: > > > A = Ground > > > B = Diagnostic Terminal > > > C = AIR (if used) > > > D = Check Engine light (if used) > > > E = Serial data (requires a reader) > > > F = TCC (if used) > > > G = Fuel Pump (if used) > > > H = Brake Sense speed input > > > M = Serial Data (4 cyl only, requires a reader) > > > So to read your DTCs, put a paper-clip or some sort of jumper > > > between pins A and B.  Turn on the ignition and count the flashes. > > > For example, a 42 would blink 4 fast, pause a moment and then blink > > > 2 times.  The sequence will begin and end with a 12.  Each code > > > repeats itself 3 times – so be patient. > > > You can report your codes back to the NG and posters here will tell > > > you what they mean.  You can also search on "OBD" and "Chevy" and > > > you will find lots of info.  For example: > > > http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/ > > > . > > > Elliott > > > > Thanks,  will the procedure be in manuals like Chilton and so forth? > or > > is > > > > there a tester that  I could get? In the mean time would you even > hazard > > a > > > > guess? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > > > >:|Bret, > > > > > >:| > > > > > >:|Can you tell me what’s DTC…..? > > > > > >:|Sorry to be ignorant. > > > > > >:| > > > > >  diagnostic trouble codes… on an 88 they’ll be 2 digit codes > that > > > > > you get by connecting two pins (can’t remember which off hand) on > the > > > > > ALDL connector and counting the flashing check engine light. > > > > > they’re very helpful. > > > > > Bret > > > > > >:|Tim > > > > > >:|> > > > > > >:|> >:|Hi, > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> >:|First, a little history- Last summer I had to replace the > fuel > > > > pump in > > > > > >:|the > > > > > >:|> >:|tank…. not fun, but not too bad. I also replaced the > fuel > > > > filter.  It > > > > > >:|has > > > > > >:|> >:|been running good until this week. It starts ok and idles > fine > > for > > > > a > > > > > >:|TBI 350 > > > > > >:|> >:|engine. I can rev it and it’s fine but, when I put it in > gear > > it > > > > goes > > > > > >:|> >:|forward and then stalls. It starts right up again and > stalls > > the > > > > same > > > > > >:|way. > > > > > >:|> >:|My question is this related to last years pump replacement > or > > > > something > > > > > >:|new? > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> >:|Thanks, > > > > > >:|> >:|Tim > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> > > > > > >:|>  do you have any DTC? > > > > > >:|> -Bret > > > > > >:|

Response:

>2: Starting the truck like that is generally considered a BAD thing. I have >heard that it should NEVER be done, and I have also been told that it can.

You can ground the terminal after its running to put it into field service mode, I dont know when that was discontinued though.

Response:

>2: Starting the truck like that is generally considered a BAD thing. I have >heard that it should NEVER be done, and I have also been told that it can. > You can ground the terminal after its running to put it into field service > mode, I dont know when that was discontinued though.

Exactly, grounding it once it’s running is ok, cranking it and running it when grounded is bad news. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Doc, Why?  What symptoms would you expect me to have since I’ve done this. I’ve not seen any effects but as you’ve probably read I’m still not there with the 87 S-10.  Do you think I’ve caused it trouble?  Will it clear, or would you recommend another J-yard computer? Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >2: Starting the truck like that is generally considered a BAD thing. I > have > >heard that it should NEVER be done, and I have also been told that it > can. > You can ground the terminal after its running to put it into field service > mode, I dont know when that was discontinued though. > Exactly, grounding it once it’s running is ok, cranking it and running it > when grounded is bad news. > Doc

Response:

> Ok, I took the vacuum at idle and at 3000 rpm it stays steady at 18. I did > replace the egr valve. The other one was froze up. Still does the same > thing. The funny thing is that I can go farther in reverse than forward. Any > more suggestions would be helpful.

Ok, the purpose of the vacuum test was to look for vacuum leaks and also a plugged catalytic convertor.  From what you have posted, neither of those are the case. Have you tried upping the revs to maybe 1300-1400 RPM and then dropping it into gear to see if the same thing happens (not too good for tranny, don’t try this more than a few times). Have you tried jacking up the rear-end, supporting it on jackstands, and putting it into drive to see if you can duplicate the effect with no load on the engine? Another thought, try putting it into1st instead of "D" and see if the same thing happens. Sounds like a funky electrical connection in your steering column.  If it happens while she’s up on jackstands this would further that "guess." Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tim > > Hi, > > Thanks for the info, it worked well but, all it flashes is the number > 12. > Am > > I suppose to start the truck?  All I did was turn the ignition on. > > Tim > No, do NOT start the truck with the ALDL port grounded!  A few more > 1) Will it do this forever (start, stall) or does it eventually resolve > and > let you get moving? > 2) When you tweak the skinny pedal, in neutral, do the revs come up > smoothly > or is it sluggish/rough > 3) Manifold vacuum (in/hg) at idle in neutral?  Manifold vacuum at > 2,500-3,000 rpm in neutral? > Doc > > > Tim, > > > Sorry I wasn’t paying attention to the year (pre 96 you can > > > read without a special reader).  The OBD1 diagnostic > > > connector is by your knees in the driver seat.  Pin A is ground > > > and pin 5 is the Diagnostic terminal.  I think these are usually > > > the top right of the connector, unless it’s mounted upsidedown > > > (look for the tabs and key I depicted with the | and the _ > > > characters): > > >        | > > >   F E D C B A > > >  _G H       M_ > > > And FYI the pins are: > > > A = Ground > > > B = Diagnostic Terminal > > > C = AIR (if used) > > > D = Check Engine light (if used) > > > E = Serial data (requires a reader) > > > F = TCC (if used) > > > G = Fuel Pump (if used) > > > H = Brake Sense speed input > > > M = Serial Data (4 cyl only, requires a reader) > > > So to read your DTCs, put a paper-clip or some sort of jumper > > > between pins A and B.  Turn on the ignition and count the flashes. > > > For example, a 42 would blink 4 fast, pause a moment and then blink > > > 2 times.  The sequence will begin and end with a 12.  Each code > > > repeats itself 3 times – so be patient. > > > You can report your codes back to the NG and posters here will tell > > > you what they mean.  You can also search on "OBD" and "Chevy" and > > > you will find lots of info.  For example: > > > http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/ > > > . > > > Elliott > > > > Thanks,  will the procedure be in manuals like Chilton and so forth? > or > > is > > > > there a tester that  I could get? In the mean time would you even > hazard > > a > > > > guess? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Tim > > > > > >:|Bret, > > > > > >:| > > > > > >:|Can you tell me what’s DTC…..? > > > > > >:|Sorry to be ignorant. > > > > > >:| > > > > >  diagnostic trouble codes… on an 88 they’ll be 2 digit codes > that > > > > > you get by connecting two pins (can’t remember which off hand) on > the > > > > > ALDL connector and counting the flashing check engine light. > > > > > they’re very helpful. > > > > > Bret > > > > > >:|Tim > > > > > >:|> > > > > > >:|> >:|Hi, > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> >:|First, a little history- Last summer I had to replace the > fuel > > > > pump in > > > > > >:|the > > > > > >:|> >:|tank…. not fun, but not too bad. I also replaced the > fuel > > > > filter.  It > > > > > >:|has > > > > > >:|> >:|been running good until this week. It starts ok and idles > fine > > for > > > > a > > > > > >:|TBI 350 > > > > > >:|> >:|engine. I can rev it and it’s fine but, when I put it in > gear > > it > > > > goes > > > > > >:|> >:|forward and then stalls. It starts right up again and > stalls > > the > > > > same > > > > > >:|way. > > > > > >:|> >:|My question is this related to last years pump replacement > or > > > > something > > > > > >:|new? > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> >:|Thanks, > > > > > >:|> >:|Tim > > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > > >:|> > > > > > >:|>  do you have any DTC? > > > > > >:|> -Bret > > > > > >:|

Response:

> it will run with the aldl grounded. this puts the system in back-up > spark and fuel  mode. base timing and no fuel trim available.

Ummmm… grounding the ALDL with the engine running puts the system in "Field service mode," fixed timing above base and the CE light indicates open or closed loop and rich/lean status. Jumpering pins "A" and "B" with a 3900 ohm resistor will put the system in back-up spark and fuel mode.

Response:

Ok, I took the vacuum at idle and at 3000 rpm it stays steady at 18. I did replace the egr valve. The other one was froze up. Still does the same thing. The funny thing is that I can go farther in reverse than forward. Any more suggestions would be helpful. Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Thanks for the info, it worked well but, all it flashes is the number 12. > Am > I suppose to start the truck?  All I did was turn the ignition on. > Tim > No, do NOT start the truck with the ALDL port grounded!  A few more > 1) Will it do this forever (start, stall) or does it eventually resolve and > let you get moving? > 2) When you tweak the skinny pedal, in neutral, do the revs come up smoothly > or is it sluggish/rough > 3) Manifold vacuum (in/hg) at idle in neutral?  Manifold vacuum at > 2,500-3,000 rpm in neutral? > Doc > > Tim, > > Sorry I wasn’t paying attention to the year (pre 96 you can > > read without a special reader).  The OBD1 diagnostic > > connector is by your knees in the driver seat.  Pin A is ground > > and pin 5 is the Diagnostic terminal.  I think these are usually > > the top right of the connector, unless it’s mounted upsidedown > > (look for the tabs and key I depicted with the | and the _ > > characters): > >        | > >   F E D C B A > >  _G H       M_ > > And FYI the pins are: > > A = Ground > > B = Diagnostic Terminal > > C = AIR (if used) > > D = Check Engine light (if used) > > E = Serial data (requires a reader) > > F = TCC (if used) > > G = Fuel Pump (if used) > > H = Brake Sense speed input > > M = Serial Data (4 cyl only, requires a reader) > > So to read your DTCs, put a paper-clip or some sort of jumper > > between pins A and B.  Turn on the ignition and count the flashes. > > For example, a 42 would blink 4 fast, pause a moment and then blink > > 2 times.  The sequence will begin and end with a 12.  Each code > > repeats itself 3 times – so be patient. > > You can report your codes back to the NG and posters here will tell > > you what they mean.  You can also search on "OBD" and "Chevy" and > > you will find lots of info.  For example: > > http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/ > > . > > Elliott > > > Thanks,  will the procedure be in manuals like Chilton and so forth? > or > is > > > there a tester that  I could get? In the mean time would you even > hazard > a > > > guess? > > > Thanks, > > > Tim > > > > >:|Bret, > > > > >:| > > > > >:|Can you tell me what’s DTC…..? > > > > >:|Sorry to be ignorant. > > > > >:| > > > >  diagnostic trouble codes… on an 88 they’ll be 2 digit codes that > > > > you get by connecting two pins (can’t remember which off hand) on > the > > > > ALDL connector and counting the flashing check engine light. > > > > they’re very helpful. > > > > Bret > > > > >:|Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > > >:|> > > > > >:|> >:|Hi, > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > >:|> >:|First, a little history- Last summer I had to replace the > fuel > > > pump in > > > > >:|the > > > > >:|> >:|tank…. not fun, but not too bad. I also replaced the fuel > > > filter.  It > > > > >:|has > > > > >:|> >:|been running good until this week. It starts ok and idles > fine > for > > > a > > > > >:|TBI 350 > > > > >:|> >:|engine. I can rev it and it’s fine but, when I put it in > gear > it > > > goes > > > > >:|> >:|forward and then stalls. It starts right up again and stalls > the > > > same > > > > >:|way. > > > > >:|> >:|My question is this related to last years pump replacement > or > > > something > > > > >:|new? > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > >:|> >:|Thanks, > > > > >:|> >:|Tim > > > > >:|> >:| > > > > >:|> > > > > >:|>  do you have any DTC? > > > > >:|> -Bret > > > > >:|

Response:

it will run with the aldl grounded. this puts the system in back-up spark and fuel  mode. base timing and no fuel trim available. Re: 88 GMC K2500 Stalling Problem  

Hi, Thanks for the info, it worked well but, all it flashes is the number 12. Am I suppose to start the truck? All I did was turn the ignition on. Tim No, do NOT start the truck with the ALDL port grounded! A few more 1) Will it do this forever (start, stall) or does it eventually resolve and let you get moving? 2) When you tweak the skinny pedal, in neutral, do the revs come up smoothly or is it sluggish/rough 3) Manifold vacuum (in/hg) at idle in neutral? Manifold vacuum at 2,500-3,000 rpm in neutral? Doc

Tim, Sorry I wasn’t paying attention to the year (pre 96 you can read without a special reader). The OBD1 diagnostic connector is by your knees in the driver seat. Pin A is ground and pin 5 is the Diagnostic terminal. I think these are usually the top right of the connector, unless it’s mounted upsidedown (look for the tabs and key I depicted with the | and the _ characters):

Power consumption on 91 GMC 4×4

Question:

I am new to this forum. I hope I get alot of help here and I will input as much as I know. I have an intermitting problem with my starter. Sometimes my truck does not want to start. The starter is draining power from the battery. The HEI starting system needs all the power it can from the battery in order to start. Sometimes the starter is draining 4-7 volts from the battery. If I disconnect the ground wire from the ground block on the firewall it is alright. Is this wire a fuseable link from the starter? I installed a new pos wire from the battery to the starter. This wire was corroded bad. Thanks to all that respond. Darryl

Response:

Darryl are you actually a Newf? -DaNewf

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am new to this forum. > I hope I get alot of help here and I will input as much as I know. > I have an intermitting problem with my starter. Sometimes my truck does not > want to start. The starter is draining power from the battery. The HEI > starting system needs all the power it can from the battery in order to > start. Sometimes the starter is draining 4-7 volts from the battery. If I > disconnect the ground wire from the ground block on the firewall it is > alright. Is this wire a fuseable link from the starter? I installed a new > pos wire from the battery to the starter. This wire was corroded bad. > Thanks to all that respond. > Darryl

Response:

Yup. Living on the West Coast of our great province. You?

Response:

From the east coast, Eastport area. Living in New Brunswick. Been here for 5 years.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yup. Living on the West Coast of our great province. > You?

Response:

What were they thinking (92 S-10 blazer 4.3 spark plugs)

Question:

I know that this has been posted before but its got to be said again. WHAT THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING, Puting the steering shaft DIRECTLY in the way of the Number 3 spark plug. Hell you need hands the size of a 5year old to get the damn plug started. Jeez what a pain in the ass. Thank you for letting me bitch

Response:

Pull the tire, straight shot in.  I had a 94 with the same "problem", but this was the preferred method.  I actually did the rear 2 plugs on both sides that way, jack it an pull the front tires.  I got a 3 foot extension for just that purpose and it works great. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I know that this has been posted before but its got to be said again. WHAT >THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING, Puting the steering shaft DIRECTLY in the way >of the Number 3 spark plug. Hell you need hands the size of a 5year old to >get the damn plug started. Jeez what a pain in the ass. >Thank you for letting me bitch

Response:

Yes, my 92 is easy if you go through the wheel area.  I don’t even pull the tire. Just reach in with a log extension and take it out. Lannie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know that this has been posted before but its got to be said again. WHAT > THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING, Puting the steering shaft DIRECTLY in the way > of the Number 3 spark plug. Hell you need hands the size of a 5year old to > get the damn plug started. Jeez what a pain in the ass. > Thank you for letting me bitch

Response:

I had to unbolt my steering column to get to it, Ihave a 98 Sonoma 4×4 4.3 Vin W so obviously, thru the whole life of the Vortech 4300 V6, the decided to be asses and not fix that problem Jason

Response:

Is it really the fault of the engine that GM did this?  Yeah, the 2nd-gen trucks need the steering shaft pushed out of the way, I’m not looking forward to a plug change-out on my 2000 S-10, but it can’t be THAT hard to move the steering shaft.  They tried to cram the biggest V-6 in the industry (anyone know of a V-6 bigger than 4.3 liters?) into a "compact" truck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had to unbolt my steering column to get to it, Ihave a 98 Sonoma 4×4 4.3 >Vin W so obviously, thru the whole life of the Vortech 4300 V6, the decided >to be asses and not fix that problem >Jason

Response:

> (anyone know of a V-6 bigger than 4.3 liters?)

Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. ~KJ~

Response:

> Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s….

Not from the factory… Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, albiet none of them from GM (I think).

Response:

> Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > Not from the factory… > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > albiet none of them from GM (I think).

No not from the factory, it was just a joke. ~KJ~

Response:

Take both front wheels off, pull the flap back, get a seat, and remove all of them this way, almost fun! A Wobble extension makes it nice also. Andy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know that this has been posted before but its got to be said again. WHAT > THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING, Puting the steering shaft DIRECTLY in the way > of the Number 3 spark plug. Hell you need hands the size of a 5year old to > get the damn plug started. Jeez what a pain in the ass. > Thank you for letting me bitch

Response:

> Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > Not from the factory… > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > albiet none of them from GM (I think).

there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM trucks

Response:

> > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > Not from the factory… > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM > trucks

WTF are you talking about?  The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the 250 and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size).  None of them were V-motors, they were all inline.  Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > > Not from the factory… > > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM > trucks > WTF are you talking about?  The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the 250 > and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size).  None of them > were V-motors, they were all inline.  Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. > Doc

Hi, Doc. He’s talking about GMC only. Most of those sizes he mentions were for full-sized trucks like dump trucks. I used to drive some of them with the 305 and  401 V-6s in them. The 305 in a truck with a 15 ton load of sand was a real dog! Also, there were a few GMC pickups out here in farm country with the 305 in them, but were rare. This was in the very late 60s-early 70s. Dale K.

Response:

p.s. the smaller inline 6 was a 194 ci. my friend had one in a chevy II Re: What were they thinking (92 S-10 blazer 4.3 spark plugs)  

Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. Not from the factory… Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, albiet none of them from GM (I think). there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM trucks WTF are you talking about? The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the 250 and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size). None of them were V-motors, they were all inline. Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. Doc

Response:

FYI: in the 60’s in medium duty trucks gm DID offer a 500 ci V6 engine. it was somewhat of a pig, but it did exist. -Pete Re: What were they thinking (92 S-10 blazer 4.3 spark plugs)  

Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. Not from the factory… Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, albiet none of them from GM (I think). there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM trucks WTF are you talking about? The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the 250 and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size). None of them were V-motors, they were all inline. Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. Doc

Response:

> p.s. the smaller inline 6 was a 194 ci. my friend had one in a chevy II

That’s the one!  Spec was 90 HP, 110ft lbs or something like that wasn’t it? My buddy has a 64′ Fleetside with a 292 and it went pretty well, but the 250 was a bit of a pig.  Reliable, but doggy. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Re: What were they thinking (92 S-10 blazer 4.3 spark plugs) > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > Not from the factory… > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s > GM trucks > WTF are you talking about? The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the > 250 and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size). None > of them were V-motors, they were all inline. Nuthin’ bigger that’s a > gasser. > Doc

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > > Not from the factory… > > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM > trucks > WTF are you talking about?  The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the 250 > and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size).  None of them > were V-motors, they were all inline.  Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. > Doc

take a look http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/Jolly-478v6.htm http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/305V6.htm

Response:

> p.s. the smaller inline 6 was a 194 ci. my friend had one in a chevy II > That’s the one!  Spec was 90 HP, 110ft lbs or something like that wasn’t it? > My buddy has a 64′ Fleetside with a 292 and it went pretty well, but the 250 > was a bit of a pig.  Reliable, but doggy. > Doc

i had a 65 chevy II with the 194. i installed a 3 spd with electric overdrive on it and would cruise 70 @ 1200rpm. wasnt fast, but it was a nice cruiser. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Re: What were they thinking (92 S-10 blazer 4.3 spark plugs) > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > Not from the factory… > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s > GM trucks > WTF are you talking about? The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the > 250 and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size). None > of them were V-motors, they were all inline. Nuthin’ bigger that’s a > gasser. > Doc

Response:

Re:  "Hi, Doc. He’s talking about GMC only. Most of those sizes he mentions were for full-sized trucks like dump trucks. I used to drive some of them with the 305 and 401 V-6s in them. The 305 in a truck with a 15 ton load of sand was a real dog! Also, there were a few GMC pickups out here in farm country with the 305 in them, but were rare. This was in the very late 60s-early 70s. Dale K."   Last year at the sod farm I talked to a guy with a 1969 (I think) GMC custom camper with a 351 V-6.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > > > Not from the factory… > > > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > > > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s > GM > > trucks > WTF are you talking about?  The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the > 250 > and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size).  None of > them > were V-motors, they were all inline.  Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. > Doc > take a look > http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/Jolly-478v6.htm > http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/305V6.htm

Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >:| >:|> > > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. >:|> > >:|> > >:|> > Not from the factory… >:|> > >:|> > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, >:|> > albiet none of them from GM (I think). >:|> > >:|> > >:|> there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s GM >:|> trucks >:| >:|WTF are you talking about?  The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the 250 >:|and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size).  None of them >:|were V-motors, they were all inline.  Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. >:| >:|Doc >:| >:| >:|> >:|> >:|

there was a 307 V6 in the 60’s…. was in the same generation as the trailing arm/coil spring rear ends… I forget the years.  There’s a guy who lives down the road from my parents that has one… pretty neat truck. -Bret

Response:

> No not from the factory, it was just a joke.

Ahh… I had no idea.  ;o)

Response:

> Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > Not from the factory… > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there though, > albiet none of them from GM (I think).

What about the GMC 350 V6? Had a brother that was a 305. They were heavier that most big block V8’s. Al

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > > > Yes, a 350 V-8. I have seen multiples of those in S10’s…. > > > > Not from the factory… > > > > Offhand I do believe that there have been bigger V6s out there > though, > > > > albiet none of them from GM (I think). > > > there have been the 305, 351E, 351M, 401, 432 and 478 V6’s in old 60’s > GM > > > trucks > > WTF are you talking about?  The 6-cylinders offered in the 60’s were the > 250 > > and 292 (there was one smaller one, can’t remember the size).  None of > them > > were V-motors, they were all inline.  Nuthin’ bigger that’s a gasser. > > Doc > take a look > http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/Jolly-478v6.htm > http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/305V6.htm > Doc

I’ll further your education. Did you notice the sparkplugs? Look again. They were in the middle above the intake manifold. They were actually in the injector holes, the engine was a Diesel GM converted to run on gasoline. I had one apart in my shop some years back. Had a crankshaft that was giant. The rod bearings looked like mains. They were short on performance and fuel economy but they will run forever. I saw a fire truck once that had two of them coupled together with two carbs and two distributors. I looked in an old truck manual and found it was a common set up. Was called the "Twin Six" and was 702 cubic inches. How would you like to feed that thing? Al

Response:

day time running lights

Question:

i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any one elsa had this problem?

Response:

> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500as I haven’t had the

Response:

> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual system. I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. nospam

Response:

Well, Ron, I bought my 99 Z71 a year ago.  I changed my DTR’s from 3157’s to 4157 amber.  I’ve put 29k miles on it and haven’t burned out a bulb yet. I’m not sure what some people call a drain on the charging system – mine are a turnsignal bulb.  I’ve added 14 led’s and 4 clearance lights to my park light circuit.  On the rear, I have a 60 led light bar and 10 other led light bolts.  I also have 9 led’s added to my brake/turn signal on the rear. During the daytime, mt DTR’s are on and all the lights that come on with my parklights.  Lots of people have problems with the DTR’s burning out bulbs. Everybody has an opinion but nobody knows why.  I haven’t seen the bulb you listed, but my only suggestion would be to get one that is "heavy duty" – usually labeled as long life. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

Response:

twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has > any > one elsa had this problem? > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > system. > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > nospam

Response:

Mr DTR’s aren’t disconnected.  Like I said, they are a turnsignal bulb. However, I did have a 97 Suburban and the DTR’s were a reduced voltage through the high beam headlights.  I also go through guard gates at military installations and it sucks that you have no control over them.  On the 97, I pulled the fuse.  It killed the DTR’s but the little green light was still on in the dash.  My 99 has auto headlights and I hated them too.  I bought a headlight controller on the net.  My auto headlights are by choice now.  I have a switch that turns off my DTR’s and auto headlights.  When the switch is on (in the daytime) my DTR’s are on and I run parklights.  At night, my auto headlights come on.  Then I switch them off so my factory headlight switch works and I have control over the headlights. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has > any > > one elsa had this problem? > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > system. > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > nospam

Response:

How do they expect us to signal an oncomming motorist that they forgot to turn on their headlights?  My DRLs on my 99 yukon are the same as your 97 burb.  Has the standard changed from flipping your headlights on and off to flashing your high beams?  How about signaling a rig that he is passed you? When were they going to inform us of this?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mr DTR’s aren’t disconnected.  Like I said, they are a turnsignal bulb. > However, I did have a 97 Suburban and the DTR’s were a reduced voltage > through the high beam headlights.  I also go through guard gates at military > installations and it sucks that you have no control over them.  On the 97, I > pulled the fuse.  It killed the DTR’s but the little green light was still > on in the dash.  My 99 has auto headlights and I hated them too.  I bought a > headlight controller on the net.  My auto headlights are by choice now.  I > have a switch that turns off my DTR’s and auto headlights.  When the switch > is on (in the daytime) my DTR’s are on and I run parklights.  At night, my > auto headlights come on.  Then I switch them off so my factory headlight > switch works and I have control over the headlights. > . > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. > has > > any > > > one elsa had this problem? > > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > > system. > > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights > don’t > > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > > nospam

Response:

may i ask where you got your l e d’s? thanks. mail me info if ya prefer

Response:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=ACC… These guys are the cheapest I found for led bolts.  The 60 led light bar is carried by Whitney – its a little high at $94 but its what I wanted.  I also got some at autozone for $5 a pair, but they don’t come with nuts.  They are supposed to screw into the plastic license plate holder. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> may i ask where you got your l e d’s? > thanks. > mail me info if ya prefer

Response:

Thanks for the link

Response:

For my truck, a 1999 K1500 I found the DRL module under the dash, used a wiring schematic to locate the wire that senses the ignition on condition and turns the lights on. I snipped the wire and placed an SPST switch under the dash so that I can activate then if I want to. nospam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has > any > > one elsa had this problem? > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > system. > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > nospam

Response:

Found a fuse for DRL on my 96 Sonoma.  Pulled the fuse and  THANK GOD they’re off.  They were the type that used the low-beams for DRL.  Didn’t seem much different than having the headlights on (except the tail-lights). Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > For my truck, a 1999 K1500 I found the DRL module under the dash, used a > wiring schematic to locate the wire that senses the ignition on condition > and turns the lights on. I snipped the wire and placed an SPST switch under > the dash so that I can activate then if I want to. > nospam > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. > has > > any > > > one elsa had this problem? > > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > > system. > > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights > don’t > > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > > nospam

Response:

I have a 2001 Suburban and had to replace both of my DRL’s already.  Now that I’m aware of it I’m amazed at how many GMC/Chevy trucks I see that have one burned out. -Brown

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

Response:

with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride button and over ride the drl and it kills them. i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

The 1999 old body doesn’t either. That’s why I dissected mine. nospam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine. > with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

It works on my fathers 2002 Astro

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The 1999 old body doesn’t either. That’s why I dissected mine. > nospam > This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine. > > with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride > > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

As I recall, they did not add the ability to do this until 2000.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It works on my fathers 2002 Astro > The 1999 old body doesn’t either. That’s why I dissected mine. > nospam > > This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine. > > > with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over > ride > > > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > > > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

   On my 97` I just step on the emergence brake 1 click.The DTRL shut off. Never replaced bulbs yet. Still factory. 1/4 Mile Junkies

Response:

Can you tell if the brake is engaging at all.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->    On my 97` I just step on the emergence brake 1 click.The DTRL shut > off. Never replaced bulbs yet. Still factory. > 1/4 Mile Junkies

Response:

Guys, just go to www.lightsout.org and click on the "disable" button.  I found a modification tip there that I did in about 2 minutes, and killed the DRL’s. Everything else works.  Mission accomplished.

Response:

In my 96 suburban all you have todo is remove the fuse this will eliminate the drl feature

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

Response:

Gonna try this …. "GM 98 full size truck (probably same for 96-99 C/K). There is a cigarette pack sized finned black heat sink (this is a double diode, 2 volt drop) located near the steering column. Unplug the 2 wire connector, this will remove DRL on any GM car using low beam DRL. (Will not defeat the auto ON)" Thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light > and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. > Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick > This is from the following website > http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html > Some recent Chev/GMtrucks, and maybe some others, have a temporary disable. > Engine running, push DOME OVERRIDE button 4 time within 6 seconds; and if > you did it right, it will beep, and the DRLs will be disabled, until you > turn the truck off. Half-assed, but better than nothing. > 99Up Chev/GM full size trucks with dedicated DRLs. Some people have put in > amber bulbs, I suggest dead bulbs or remove them altogether. These DRLs burn > out frequently. Also, if one amber bulb burns out, the remaining functioning > bulb may be interpreted as a turn signal! > GM 98 full size truck (probably same for 96-99 C/K). There is a cigarette > pack sized finned black heat sink (this is a double diode, 2 volt drop) > located near the steering column. Unplug the 2 wire connector, this will > remove DRL on any GM car using low beam DRL. (Will not defeat the auto ON) > Chev Blazer: 98 S-10 underhood fuse box, remove black DIODE, 99’s may be > same, 2000’s are not. AUTO LIGHTS ON:: 98-2000 S-10; remove pass side > speaker grill and unplug sensor, replace with a 1000 ohm resistor.

Response:

Ok, good info but let me elaborate on what I would like. with the headlights off, the (headlights on) signal is on, signaling the DRLs are on. When I turn the headlights on the (headlights on) signal turns off, signaling the DRLs are off. I want that all to work like a normal set up. No DRLs. turn the lights on and the (headlight on) signal comes on, turn the lights off and the signal goes off. it seems to me that there might be a control box I can swap out of a 98 or older model to accomplish this. I know the fuse would work but I want a permanent fix, not a temporary one. Ill consult my dealer and post there answer in a few days. Thanks for all the help, Patrick

Response:

> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

This is from the following website http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html Some recent Chev/GMtrucks, and maybe some others, have a temporary disable. Engine running, push DOME OVERRIDE button 4 time within 6 seconds; and if you did it right, it will beep, and the DRLs will be disabled, until you turn the truck off. Half-assed, but better than nothing. 99Up Chev/GM full size trucks with dedicated DRLs. Some people have put in amber bulbs, I suggest dead bulbs or remove them altogether. These DRLs burn out frequently. Also, if one amber bulb burns out, the remaining functioning bulb may be interpreted as a turn signal! GM 98 full size truck (probably same for 96-99 C/K). There is a cigarette pack sized finned black heat sink (this is a double diode, 2 volt drop) located near the steering column. Unplug the 2 wire connector, this will remove DRL on any GM car using low beam DRL. (Will not defeat the auto ON) Chev Blazer: 98 S-10 underhood fuse box, remove black DIODE, 99’s may be same, 2000’s are not. AUTO LIGHTS ON:: 98-2000 S-10; remove pass side speaker grill and unplug sensor, replace with a 1000 ohm resistor.

Response:

i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks in advance. -Patrick

Response:

There is a fuse for them in the fuse panel left side of driver in the dash. just remove it and no problems. i do this to go driving at dusk with no lights to scare animals. john

i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks in advance. -Patrick

Response:

> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

There is supposed to be a code in the owner’s manual to disengage the drl…something about turning lights on while in reverse with the door open…or something like that.  If it’s not in the owner’s manual, I bet the service manager at the dealers knows the trick. HH

Response:

Pull the fuse. Jon Larsson

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

Response:

2002 Blazer Trailer electrics, also manual vailability

Question:

I don’t find a specific trailer light kit for my 2002 Blazer, only for older Blazers and newer S-10s. I looked under the bumper and there is a capped pigtail connector secured there with about eight wires. I am wondering if this is for a trailer connection, can anyone tell me? If So, does anyone know of a source other than Chevy for a kit? Also, searching my local shops as well as the web I can’t find any repair manuals specific to a 2002 Blazer other than the $52.00 Chilton SUV manual. Does anyone know of a manual that will be applicable to a 2002 Blazer other than the factory manual? Thanks in advance

Response:

> I don’t find a specific trailer light kit for my 2002 Blazer, only for older > Blazers and newer S-10s. I looked under the bumper and there is a capped pigtail > connector secured there with about eight wires. I am wondering if this is for a > trailer connection, can anyone tell me? If So, does anyone know of a source > other than Chevy for a kit? > Also, searching my local shops as well as the web I can’t find any repair > manuals specific to a 2002 Blazer other than the $52.00 Chilton SUV manual. Does > anyone know of a manual that will be applicable to a 2002 Blazer other than the > factory manual? > Thanks in advance

What kind of kit do you want?  That pigtail is the trailer harness.  I expect it has most all connections already made. Several sites have instructions on how to attach connectors: http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.asp http://marksrv.com/ A 7 pin connector costs about $5 at WalMart, Auto supply or any RV supply house. If you want to add a brake controller: http://www.tekonsha.com/product1.html Each type of controller has wire instructions. I am not certain if the Blazer came prewired for brake control.  GMC and Chev. trucks do if you order the trailer harness. If it did all you have to do is buy an adapter cable to plug into a socket under the dash and connect the wires to the controller (Or buy a prewired harness that also plugs into the controller).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t find a specific trailer light kit for my 2002 Blazer, only for older > Blazers and newer S-10s. I looked under the bumper and there is a capped pigtail > connector secured there with about eight wires. I am wondering if this is for a > trailer connection, can anyone tell me? If So, does anyone know of a source > other than Chevy for a kit? > Also, searching my local shops as well as the web I can’t find any repair > manuals specific to a 2002 Blazer other than the $52.00 Chilton SUV manual. Does > anyone know of a manual that will be applicable to a 2002 Blazer other than the > factory manual? > Thanks in advance >What kind of kit do you want?  That pigtail is the trailer harness.  I >expect it has most all connections already made.

I wanted a kit that would plug into that connector on on end and the 4 pin flat connector on the tailer. I did some more looking under the bumber today. The pigtail I was referring to before has about 12 female blade connectors with a cap that has matching blades. I am now real curious waht it could be fore because I found another bumdle of wires that dead ends and it clipped to the inside of the bumper and as a tag with a color code for all the lights. I should be able to hard wire any generic trailer connector. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Several sites have instructions on how to attach connectors: >http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.asp >http://marksrv.com/ >A 7 pin connector costs about $5 at WalMart, Auto supply or any RV >supply house. >If you want to add a brake controller: >http://www.tekonsha.com/product1.html >Each type of controller has wire instructions. >I am not certain if the Blazer came prewired for brake control.  GMC and >Chev. trucks do if you order the trailer harness. If it did all you have >to do is buy an adapter cable to plug into a socket under the dash and >connect the wires to the controller (Or buy a prewired harness that also >plugs into the controller).

Thanks for the reply, the the first web site was helpful as I found out they specify a "universal" kit for the 02 Blazer ($14.95 IIIRC). Still curious what the fancy connector is for, I speculate it is for the towing backage with brakes you mentioned.

Response:

87 Blazer diesel questions

Question:

> That diesel was based on the SBC block, so all the above: > plus the 265 and 262 bell housings will work. For the most part, the pumps > are what sucked big time on those, then following were the chain and gears. > The few I rebuilt and did the updates on, ran hundreds of thousands of > miles. > Refinish King

The 6.2 is NOT based on a SBC block. Where did you come up with that nonsense? The old 350 Diesel was based on a 350 Olds gas engine. Even that has a different bell housing pattern. The 6.2 started out as a Detroit Diesel. They built it for two years. In 84 Chevrolet took over the factory, made a number of changes in the design, most notable the rocker arm set up and the fuel filters, and built it. Later the pump "cushion" was redesigned to resemble a Lucas unit, and the pump problems greatly decreased. For what it’s worth, I had a 82 6.2 in a GMC 4X4 with a 4 speed overdrive manual trans and 3.31 rear gears. I towed a car trailer many times with it. Yes, it was gutless, but it got incredible mileage. I learned not to tow in overdrive unless the ground was flat and there was no headwind. It was decent in third gear. (Direct.) I had the truck over ten years. It lost the injector pump around 47K miles and I repaired it myself. At about 60K miles it broke a lifter. Hydraulic roller type. I replaced that myself. When I sold the truck I got $200 more than I paid for it:) Helped that the prices of new trucks skyrocketed in that time period. Another thing, the Ford 6.9 Diesel of that time period were also gutless. Then came the Turbos…. Al

Response:

That diesel was based on the SBC block, so all the above: plus the 265 and 262 bell housings will work. For the most part, the pumps are what sucked big time on those, then following were the chain and gears. The few I rebuilt and did the updates on, ran hundreds of thousands of miles. Refinish King – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Sounds like a good buy if you’re prepaired to replace/rebuild the eninge > (if needed).  If you determined a need to replace the engine you’d > probably be goin carborated so that you could avoid the expensive > computer setup goin that way.  U-pullit junk-yard eninges are ~150, and > a yard man will usually pull one for another $100 (though you may need a > day-trip to go there w/ a pickup).  So the main thing is to find out is > what the bell-housing is compatible with (6.2L deisel? – that sounds > like a 266(4.3L V6)/ 267 (4.4L V8) / 305 (5L V8) / or 350 5.5L / or 6L > (400) gas swappable).  Anyone know for sure for him? > Elliott > Hello, > Aren’t there army surplus crated engines that can be had for $50 to $300? > Great cost-saving idea for parts or even rebuild/drop-in (e.g., the diesel > fuel injector pumps on the surplus engines are supposed to have hardened > internal components so that the engines can run a whole slew of fuels). > Check out the "Parts" section on www.62-65-dieslpage.com (you don’t have to > be a member to see the advertisements).  Good luck. > Frank0 > > For that price, I think I would take a chance with it.  Heck, the core on > > the engine is worth more than that, I think.  When you get this, you may > > take a look at www.gm-diesel.com to see if anyone there can help you out > > with getting it to run.  Lots of good folks there are very willing to help > > out. > > Snowman > > > $600 is the price of the truck. I can’t exactly run from it for sure, > > > especially with everything is such good shape. > > > Marc > > > > Unless you’re getting a REALLY good price, I’d sure be careful if > you’re > > > > looking at a non-running truck.  Can you buy it for scrap price? > > > > If you get the 6.2 running, though, it’s not a bad engine from what > I’ve > > > > seen.  It will be pretty gutless unless you put a Banks turbo kit on > it. > > > > Then you will have a strong runner.  You’re talking about some money, > > > > though, for this kit.  However, if you’re looking to tow and keep fuel > > > > economy, then you’re on the right track with a few upgrades. > > > > only my opinion > > > > Snowman > > > > > I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out > and > > > > with > > > > > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t > > know > > > > > anymore than that. > > > > > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel > due > > > to > > > > > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > > > > > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the > > 700R4 > > > on > > > > > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > > > > > Marc

Response:

Sounds like a good buy if you’re prepaired to replace/rebuild the eninge (if needed).  If you determined a need to replace the engine you’d probably be goin carborated so that you could avoid the expensive computer setup goin that way.  U-pullit junk-yard eninges are ~150, and a yard man will usually pull one for another $100 (though you may need a day-trip to go there w/ a pickup).  So the main thing is to find out is what the bell-housing is compatible with (6.2L deisel? – that sounds like a 266(4.3L V6)/ 267 (4.4L V8) / 305 (5L V8) / or 350 5.5L / or 6L (400) gas swappable).  Anyone know for sure for him? Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, > Aren’t there army surplus crated engines that can be had for $50 to $300? > Great cost-saving idea for parts or even rebuild/drop-in (e.g., the diesel > fuel injector pumps on the surplus engines are supposed to have hardened > internal components so that the engines can run a whole slew of fuels). > Check out the "Parts" section on www.62-65-dieslpage.com (you don’t have to > be a member to see the advertisements).  Good luck. > Frank0 > For that price, I think I would take a chance with it.  Heck, the core on > the engine is worth more than that, I think.  When you get this, you may > take a look at www.gm-diesel.com to see if anyone there can help you out > with getting it to run.  Lots of good folks there are very willing to help > out. > Snowman > > $600 is the price of the truck. I can’t exactly run from it for sure, > > especially with everything is such good shape. > > Marc > > > Unless you’re getting a REALLY good price, I’d sure be careful if > you’re > > > looking at a non-running truck.  Can you buy it for scrap price? > > > If you get the 6.2 running, though, it’s not a bad engine from what > I’ve > > > seen.  It will be pretty gutless unless you put a Banks turbo kit on > it. > > > Then you will have a strong runner.  You’re talking about some money, > > > though, for this kit.  However, if you’re looking to tow and keep fuel > > > economy, then you’re on the right track with a few upgrades. > > > only my opinion > > > Snowman > > > > I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out > and > > > with > > > > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t > know > > > > anymore than that. > > > > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel > due > > to > > > > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > > > > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the > 700R4 > > on > > > > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > > > > Marc

Response:

I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and with a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t know anymore than that. Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due to the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the 700R4 on the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? Marc

Response:

One more question. What are the tq numbers on this engine? Will it pull a decent load (i.e. jeep on a trailer) 65-70 mph? Marc

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and with > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t know > anymore than that. > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due to > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the 700R4 on > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > Marc

Response:

my first thought is   "run away" If I recall, I think the common opinion for those year model diesels is that they are considered "boat anchors." not worth the time to mess with. I think if you look around you’ll see that most folks who had one of these went with a 350 gas burner engine once the diesel got to expensive to maintain and what little performance went away. Personally I would only buy a vehicle like that with the intent to convert over to a gas engine setup. ** My view ** Elbert >I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and with >a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t know >anymore than that. >Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due to >the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors >typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the 700R4 on >the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? >Marc

—- Elbert Clarke remove ** to email

Response:

Unless you’re getting a REALLY good price, I’d sure be careful if you’re looking at a non-running truck.  Can you buy it for scrap price? If you get the 6.2 running, though, it’s not a bad engine from what I’ve seen.  It will be pretty gutless unless you put a Banks turbo kit on it. Then you will have a strong runner.  You’re talking about some money, though, for this kit.  However, if you’re looking to tow and keep fuel economy, then you’re on the right track with a few upgrades. only my opinion Snowman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and with > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t know > anymore than that. > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due to > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the 700R4 on > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > Marc

Response:

$600 is the price of the truck. I can’t exactly run from it for sure, especially with everything is such good shape. Marc

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Unless you’re getting a REALLY good price, I’d sure be careful if you’re > looking at a non-running truck.  Can you buy it for scrap price? > If you get the 6.2 running, though, it’s not a bad engine from what I’ve > seen.  It will be pretty gutless unless you put a Banks turbo kit on it. > Then you will have a strong runner.  You’re talking about some money, > though, for this kit.  However, if you’re looking to tow and keep fuel > economy, then you’re on the right track with a few upgrades. > only my opinion > Snowman > I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and > with > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t know > anymore than that. > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due to > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the 700R4 on > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > Marc

Response:

For that price, I think I would take a chance with it.  Heck, the core on the engine is worth more than that, I think.  When you get this, you may take a look at www.gm-diesel.com to see if anyone there can help you out with getting it to run.  Lots of good folks there are very willing to help out. Snowman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> $600 is the price of the truck. I can’t exactly run from it for sure, > especially with everything is such good shape. > Marc > Unless you’re getting a REALLY good price, I’d sure be careful if you’re > looking at a non-running truck.  Can you buy it for scrap price? > If you get the 6.2 running, though, it’s not a bad engine from what I’ve > seen.  It will be pretty gutless unless you put a Banks turbo kit on it. > Then you will have a strong runner.  You’re talking about some money, > though, for this kit.  However, if you’re looking to tow and keep fuel > economy, then you’re on the right track with a few upgrades. > only my opinion > Snowman > > I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and > with > > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t know > > anymore than that. > > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due > to > > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the 700R4 > on > > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > > Marc

Response:

Hello, Aren’t there army surplus crated engines that can be had for $50 to $300? Great cost-saving idea for parts or even rebuild/drop-in (e.g., the diesel fuel injector pumps on the surplus engines are supposed to have hardened internal components so that the engines can run a whole slew of fuels). Check out the "Parts" section on www.62-65-dieslpage.com (you don’t have to be a member to see the advertisements).  Good luck. Frank0

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> For that price, I think I would take a chance with it.  Heck, the core on > the engine is worth more than that, I think.  When you get this, you may > take a look at www.gm-diesel.com to see if anyone there can help you out > with getting it to run.  Lots of good folks there are very willing to help > out. > Snowman > $600 is the price of the truck. I can’t exactly run from it for sure, > especially with everything is such good shape. > Marc > > Unless you’re getting a REALLY good price, I’d sure be careful if you’re > > looking at a non-running truck.  Can you buy it for scrap price? > > If you get the 6.2 running, though, it’s not a bad engine from what I’ve > > seen.  It will be pretty gutless unless you put a Banks turbo kit on it. > > Then you will have a strong runner.  You’re talking about some money, > > though, for this kit.  However, if you’re looking to tow and keep fuel > > economy, then you’re on the right track with a few upgrades. > > only my opinion > > Snowman > > > I have an oprotunity to buy an 87 Blazer decked out inside and out and > > with > > > a diesel. The engine has issues. Won’t start and the owner doesn’t > know > > > anymore than that. > > > Several people suggested that I go with a SBC. I prefer the diesel due > to > > > the probably 20 mpg. I have a few questions. How much are JY motors > > > typically going for? How much are rebuilt engines running? Is the > 700R4 > on > > > the diesel the same as a gas engine 700R4? > > > Marc

Response:

1991 GMC 2500 4X4 Issues

Question:

Thanks for hte info.  I’ll check on the sticky caliper/wheel.  In regards to your question under Item 2, this truck is the "newer style" from 1988 – 2000.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have several issues that have me stumped. > 1.  Took the truck back to the dealer because it was pulling to the right. > The dealer and I both assumed an alignment was in order.  This did not take > care of the problem.  Pitman arm was going bad so we replaced it.  Did not > fix the issue either.  Rotated the tires to rule out a bad tire.  Truck > still pulls to the right.  Any ideas? > 2.  Have a "clanking" or "clicking" sound in the steering column that is > heard when you first move forward or when going over rough road. > 3.  I’m trying to find the maximum "towing capacity" of this vehicle. Its > not in the owner’s manual.  The truck is a 2500, 5.7L/350, with a 4.10 gear > ratio.  I’m looking at getting an enclosed car trailer with a gross volume > weight of 7,000 pounds. > Thanks! > 1. Could be a sticky caliper or wheel cylinder. Check your brakes, is > there more brake dust on one wheel than the other? Does the truck pull > differently when the brakes are applied? > 2. A little more information is needed. So you hear a sound, from the > column, or feel something in the column, when you first move forward? Is >   this the older RV style truck (73-87 with some models (like some 3500, > some 2500, blazer & suburbanrunning til ‘91) or newer style ‘88-00 > 3. You should have a GVWR sticker either in the glove box or on the > drivers door jamb. > Ken

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have several issues that have me stumped. > 1.  Took the truck back to the dealer because it was pulling to the right. > The dealer and I both assumed an alignment was in order.  This did not take > care of the problem.  Pitman arm was going bad so we replaced it.  Did not > fix the issue either.  Rotated the tires to rule out a bad tire.  Truck > still pulls to the right.  Any ideas? > 2.  Have a "clanking" or "clicking" sound in the steering column that is > heard when you first move forward or when going over rough road. > 3.  I’m trying to find the maximum "towing capacity" of this vehicle.  Its > not in the owner’s manual.  The truck is a 2500, 5.7L/350, with a 4.10 gear > ratio.  I’m looking at getting an enclosed car trailer with a gross volume > weight of 7,000 pounds. > Thanks!

1. Could be a sticky caliper or wheel cylinder. Check your brakes, is there more brake dust on one wheel than the other? Does the truck pull differently when the brakes are applied? 2. A little more information is needed. So you hear a sound, from the column, or feel something in the column, when you first move forward? Is   this the older RV style truck (73-87 with some models (like some 3500, some 2500, blazer & suburbanrunning til ‘91) or newer style ‘88-00 3. You should have a GVWR sticker either in the glove box or on the drivers door jamb. Ken

Response:

I have several issues that have me stumped. 1.  Took the truck back to the dealer because it was pulling to the right. The dealer and I both assumed an alignment was in order.  This did not take care of the problem.  Pitman arm was going bad so we replaced it.  Did not fix the issue either.  Rotated the tires to rule out a bad tire.  Truck still pulls to the right.  Any ideas? 2.  Have a "clanking" or "clicking" sound in the steering column that is heard when you first move forward or when going over rough road. 3.  I’m trying to find the maximum "towing capacity" of this vehicle.  Its not in the owner’s manual.  The truck is a 2500, 5.7L/350, with a 4.10 gear ratio.  I’m looking at getting an enclosed car trailer with a gross volume weight of 7,000 pounds. Thanks!

Response:

91 GMC z71 – weak brakes?

Question:

> Ugh, hit "send" too soon.  You could also look into the front flex > no > pull but reduced stopping power. > the front flex hoses were brand new when I bought the truck 3 years > ago….could > it be that they’ve deteriorated already? > b

Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> Ugh, hit "send" too soon.  You could also look into the front flex no > pull but reduced stopping power.

the front flex hoses were brand new when I bought the truck 3 years ago….could it be that they’ve deteriorated already? b

Response:

Proportioning valve controls the amount of pressure applied to front and rears based on vehicle load; -AKA height sensing valve usually attached to rear axle limiting apply pressure to rear brakes when truck empty and maximizing apply press. when truck loaded. Not all are so equipped! The other part of the "combo valve" triggers the brake warning light when fluid is lost from either front or rear circuit. agreement on delay front apply function Rolf

Response:

Re-Bleed the system. The GM manual says the two man method is recomended, with ~2 quarts for a good bleed. IMHO, I believe there can be air trapped in the ABS system.  I had blead mine to the point that air was sucked in to the system. It wasnt right until I blead the system 3 times. And do check the rear adjustments. Cheers – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m curious > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that.  I’ve > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), Raybestos > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear.  have > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, clean > stuff and re-bled. > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I come > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to the > floor…. > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > b

Response:

> And a metering valve does what?  I too was only familiar with the > proportioning valve (enquiring minds want to know…;>)

Proportioning valve controls the amount of pressure applied to front and rears based on vehicle load; the metering valve holds off application of the front brakes until the rears have a chance to kick in.  Rears have more "travel" before they apply, so the metering valve holds off the fronts until the rears are applied to reduce the nose dive effect. Doc

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> And a metering valve does what?  I too was only familiar with the > proportioning valve (enquiring minds want to know…;>) > Proportioning valve controls the amount of pressure applied to front and > rears based on vehicle load; the metering valve holds off application of the > front brakes until the rears have a chance to kick in.  Rears have more > "travel" before they apply, so the metering valve holds off the fronts until > the rears are applied to reduce the nose dive effect. > Doc

Gotcha.  I guess I always thought the proprtioning valve did both, plus on my Blazers I’ve never had much luck with the rears in general…thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey doc, > sorry to sound stupid, but what is a combination valve? is it like a > proportioning valve?  I saw you refer to it a few days ago, but i’ve never > heard of that part? > thanks > TB > The combo valve on the GM trucks combines a proportioning valve and metering > valve in one package.  It’s located just to the right of the master cylinder > and is aluminum.  The lines travel from the master to the combo valve, then > to their final destination (or ABS module if so equipped).

And a metering valve does what?  I too was only familiar with the proportioning valve (enquiring minds want to know…;>) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Doc > > > > I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m > curious > > > > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > > > > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy > that. > > > I’ve > > > > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), > > Raybestos > > > > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear. > > have > > > > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with > fresh, > > > clean > > > > stuff and re-bled. > > > > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster > is > > > > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when > I > > > come > > > > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its > to > > the > > > > floor…. > > > > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > > > > b > > > Doc > > Ugh, hit "send" too soon.  You could also look into the front flex hence > no > > pull but reduced stopping power. > > Doc

Response:

> Hey doc, > sorry to sound stupid, but what is a combination valve? is it like a > proportioning valve?  I saw you refer to it a few days ago, but i’ve never > heard of that part? > thanks > TB

The combo valve on the GM trucks combines a proportioning valve and metering valve in one package.  It’s located just to the right of the master cylinder and is aluminum.  The lines travel from the master to the combo valve, then to their final destination (or ABS module if so equipped). Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m > curious > > > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > > > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that. > > I’ve > > > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), > Raybestos > > > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear. > have > > > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, > > clean > > > stuff and re-bled. > > > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is > > > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I > > come > > > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to > the > > > floor…. > > > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > > > b > > Doc > Ugh, hit "send" too soon.  You could also look into the front flex > no > pull but reduced stopping power. > Doc

Response:

"Hamilton Audio"  wrote > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that.

And "many" are right. Ian

Response:

Hey doc, sorry to sound stupid, but what is a combination valve? is it like a proportioning valve?  I saw you refer to it a few days ago, but i’ve never heard of that part? thanks TB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m curious > > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that. > I’ve > > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), > Raybestos > > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear. > have > > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, > clean > > stuff and re-bled. > > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is > > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I > come > > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to > the > > floor…. > > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > > b > Doc > Ugh, hit "send" too soon.  You could also look into the front flex no > pull but reduced stopping power. > Doc

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m curious > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that. I’ve > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), Raybestos > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear.  have > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, clean > stuff and re-bled. > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I come > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to the > floor…. > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > b

When you replaced the rear shoes, did you adjust them properly? To eliminate them as the cause of your problems, adjust them tight against the drums(can’t turn wheels) and check the pedal feel. If the pedal comes up substantially, they may have been too loose. H

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m curious > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that. > I’ve > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), Raybestos > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear. have > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, > clean > stuff and re-bled. > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I > come > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to the > floor…. > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > b > Doc

Ugh, hit "send" too soon.  You could also look into the front flex pull but reduced stopping power. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m curious > again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? > Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that. I’ve > upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), Raybestos > Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear.  have > completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, clean > stuff and re-bled. > Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is > getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I come > to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to the > floor…. > any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! > b

Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I’ve asked this before, and got a few differnt answers…now I’m curious again.  why do the brakes in my truck feel so darned weak???? Many have said this is "just a chevy brake system".  I don’t buy that.  I’ve upgraded with fresh rotors and calipers (factory replacements), Raybestos Brutestop pads up front, and regular replacement shoes in the rear.  have completely bled the brake system of old fluid and replaced with fresh, clean stuff and re-bled. Is it possible that after 300,000 km, the old girl’s brake booster is getting weak?  it seems the pedal has a little bit of feel, but when I come to a stop light, there is VERY LITTLE left on the pedal before its to the floor…. any ideas?  please don’t tell me this is just the way it is!! b

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Selling 4×4 Trucks

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Actually http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is there a Chevy Truck ( or GMC ) newsgroup just for selling a vehicle? > I am not getting what you’d call a stellar response from my Podunk > Hollow newspaper. > Try www.ebay.com > Doc

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> Is there a Chevy Truck ( or GMC ) newsgroup just for selling a vehicle? > I am not getting what you’d call a stellar response from my Podunk > Hollow newspaper. > Try www.ebay.com > Doc

Damn… You beat me to it otherwise www.google.com and query car + sale + Chevy + Whateverelseyouthinkmightwork you should get a few hits of sales sites. rhys

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Is there a Chevy Truck ( or GMC ) newsgroup just for selling a vehicle? I am not getting what you’d call a stellar response from my Podunk Hollow newspaper.

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> Is there a Chevy Truck ( or GMC ) newsgroup just for selling a vehicle? > I am not getting what you’d call a stellar response from my Podunk > Hollow newspaper.

Try www.ebay.com Doc

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Cassette Player Lights staying on

Question:

sounds like it is wired to a hot lead and not to the original circuit that is only hot when the key is on. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 93 GMC ( same as a Chevy, basically, right? ) that has had, I > just found out, a working tape player all along. Seems the old owner > unplugged the thing cause the lights stay on even when the truck is > shut off. Anyone have any exerience with this? It has the separate > player right in the dash  right front of the middle passenger, > complete with equalizer. Thanks in advance. > ( I hate to take it to a Stereo store, because we don’t have one way > out here in the boonies )

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Its time to trash all that old 3 piece of garbage and buy a new stereo from www.Bought4Less.com Right colored Dash peice, Wiring harnes, Pocket, Antenna adapter etc. : I have a 93 GMC ( same as a Chevy, basically, right? ) that has had, I : just found out, a working tape player all along. Seems the old owner : unplugged the thing cause the lights stay on even when the truck is : shut off. Anyone have any exerience with this? It has the separate : player right in the dash  right front of the middle passenger, : complete with equalizer. Thanks in advance. : ( I hate to take it to a Stereo store, because we don’t have one way : out here in the boonies )

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I have a 93 GMC ( same as a Chevy, basically, right? ) that has had, I just found out, a working tape player all along. Seems the old owner unplugged the thing cause the lights stay on even when the truck is shut off. Anyone have any exerience with this? It has the separate player right in the dash  right front of the middle passenger, complete with equalizer. Thanks in advance. ( I hate to take it to a Stereo store, because we don’t have one way out here in the boonies )

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