Electrical Problems
Question:
I have a 95 GMC 4×4 that has the tail lights completely out. No turn signals or brake lights or even backing lights. Occasionally I get a flicker going down the road. The blinkers on the front of the truck blink in a rapid succesion. Any suggestions. I am tired of spending time under this truck. Any help would be appreciated. John
Response:
Check the wiring harness connector located near the rear bumper inside the frame rail – probably driver’s side rail. This connector serves all the lights you mentioned. Separate the connector and spray with WD-40. Sometimes these come loose – especially if one of those t-type trailer light hookups has been added between the connectors. Good Luck, Preston > I have a 95 GMC 4×4 that has the tail lights completely out. No turn > signals or brake lights or even backing lights. Occasionally I get a > flicker going down the road. The blinkers on the front of the truck > blink in a rapid succesion. Any suggestions. I am tired of spending > time under this truck. Any help would be appreciated. > John
Before you buy.
Response:
I think you have have a short in your harness which may have interfered with the trunk/door light, dome light, which are connected to the cortesey control unit. These shorts are probably caused by using incorrect fuse amp ratings. First thing to do is check fuse amps. Underhood and underdash. How to check for dome light shortage? Connect a multimeter to one of the stero wire wires, one at a time and open or close the door. When you find the one, it should show some changes. Do this first, so you can reduce then risk of damaging your stereo unit, in case the short involves your speaker wires or remote wires. -Ricky Tip: Those door lights dome light are probably control by a transistor, PNP type. I had mine blew out once and replaced them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If this was the case, then I would have had this problem since I first > installed the unit about a year ago. This problem just started occurring > this past week. I guess I should’ve mentioned that I’ve had the stereo > installed for some time now. And when I installed the stereo, I followed > the wiring diagram explicitly. > I’ll probably take the first respondent’s advice and check the wiring > harness first, to see if any of my splices came loose. You two are both > right, though… this probably is something that is next to impossible to > diagnose over the wire. I just thought somebody might recommend a few > starting points where I could check first so that I might narrow down the > search more quickly. For example, is there a way that I can check to see if > the wiring for the courtesy lights have a short in them somewhere (using a > voltmeter, or something), or should I concentrate my search intently on the > stereo wiring? > And yes, it is kinda funny that my stereo randomly goes on and off with the > opening and closing of different doors on my car, but then again… it’s not > so funny when I contemplate the consequences (electrical fire) that could > result. > -Marcus. > Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. > He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the > Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive > when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy > turby effect. > Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from > scratch. > -Ricky > > You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > > situation. > > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the > ground > > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. > Also, > > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > > Good luck. > > > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an > expert on > > > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > > > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > > > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > > > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > > > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to > come back > > > on. > > > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not > connected > > > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any > alternator > > > whine. > > > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire > was > > > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc > between the > > > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the > cable from > > > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still > connected). > > > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the > doors/trunk, I > > > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring > somehwere. But I > > > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could > reside > > > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow > down the > > > problem? > > > Thanks, > > > Marcus.
Response:
If this was the case, then I would have had this problem since I first installed the unit about a year ago. This problem just started occurring this past week. I guess I should’ve mentioned that I’ve had the stereo installed for some time now. And when I installed the stereo, I followed the wiring diagram explicitly. I’ll probably take the first respondent’s advice and check the wiring harness first, to see if any of my splices came loose. You two are both right, though… this probably is something that is next to impossible to diagnose over the wire. I just thought somebody might recommend a few starting points where I could check first so that I might narrow down the search more quickly. For example, is there a way that I can check to see if the wiring for the courtesy lights have a short in them somewhere (using a voltmeter, or something), or should I concentrate my search intently on the stereo wiring? And yes, it is kinda funny that my stereo randomly goes on and off with the opening and closing of different doors on my car, but then again… it’s not so funny when I contemplate the consequences (electrical fire) that could result. -Marcus.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. > He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the > Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive > when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy > turby effect. > Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from > scratch. > -Ricky > You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > situation. > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the > ground > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. > Also, > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > Good luck. > > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an > expert on > > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to > come back > > on. > > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not > connected > > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any > alternator > > whine. > > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire > was > > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc > between the > > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the > cable from > > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still > connected). > > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the > doors/trunk, I > > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring > somehwere. But I > > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could > reside > > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow > down the > > problem? > > Thanks, > > Marcus.
Response:
Although not necessarily the same situation as you I’ll tell you what happened to a friend’s car. He had a very powerful amplifier in the back of his car 500W+ I think it was. The ground for the amplifier became detached. Now the stereo kept going because there was a ground path down the input audio lines shield and into the head unit, through the negative lead of the CD player, through the vehicle’s dashboard main ground and, however indirectly, to the negative of the car battery. When he goosed the volume one time, the current draw went way up (of course) and smoked the head unit & wiring harness in the dashboard. I’m guessing (and it is a guess in a big way) that something similar has happened to your ride. MC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If this was the case, then I would have had this problem since I first > installed the unit about a year ago. This problem just started occurring > this past week. I guess I should’ve mentioned that I’ve had the stereo > installed for some time now. And when I installed the stereo, I followed > the wiring diagram explicitly. > I’ll probably take the first respondent’s advice and check the wiring > harness first, to see if any of my splices came loose. You two are both > right, though… this probably is something that is next to impossible to > diagnose over the wire. I just thought somebody might recommend a few > starting points where I could check first so that I might narrow down the > search more quickly. For example, is there a way that I can check to see if > the wiring for the courtesy lights have a short in them somewhere (using a > voltmeter, or something), or should I concentrate my search intently on the > stereo wiring? > And yes, it is kinda funny that my stereo randomly goes on and off with the > opening and closing of different doors on my car, but then again… it’s not > so funny when I contemplate the consequences (electrical fire) that could > result. > -Marcus. > Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. > He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the > Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive > when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy > turby effect. > Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from > scratch. > -Ricky > > You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > > situation. > > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the > ground > > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. > Also, > > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > > Good luck. > > > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an > expert on > > > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > > > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > > > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > > > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > > > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to > come back > > > on. > > > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not > connected > > > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any > alternator > > > whine. > > > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire > was > > > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc > between the > > > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the > cable from > > > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still > connected). > > > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the > doors/trunk, I > > > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring > somehwere. But I > > > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could > reside > > > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow > down the > > > problem? > > > Thanks, > > > Marcus.
Response:
OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back on. – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator whine. – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the problem? Thanks, Marcus.
Response:
1) Remove the negative wire from the battery. 2) Disconnect every aftermarket equipment (car stereo and amp) 3) Reconnect the battery and look for failures. If the problem persists, you will have to look for posible short circuit in the door’s trigger switch, if not check the following: 1) Is your amp monted directly on any metal part of the car ? Remember that you must mount your amp insulated from the metal of the car, you can use a pieze of wood to do that. 2) Verify the harness of your stereo and look for any unshield positive wire there. And most important, do something fast because you can burn any of the electronics of the car you have a short circuit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back > on. > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator > whine. > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the > problem? > Thanks, > Marcus.
Response:
You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this situation. That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the ground that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. Also, it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back > on. > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator > whine. > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the > problem? > Thanks, > Marcus.
Response:
Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy turby effect. Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from scratch. -Ricky – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > situation. > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the ground > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. Also, > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > Good luck. > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back > on. > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator > whine. > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the > problem? > Thanks, > Marcus.
Response:
I think you have have a short in your harness which may have interfered with the trunk/door light, dome light, which are connected to the cortesey control unit. These shorts are probably caused by using incorrect fuse amp ratings. First thing to do is check fuse amps. Underhood and underdash. How to check for dome light shortage? Connect a multimeter to one of the stero wire wires, one at a time and open or close the door. When you find the one, it should show some changes. Do this first, so you can reduce then risk of damaging your stereo unit, in case the short involves your speaker wires or remote wires. -Ricky Tip: Those door lights dome light are probably control by a transistor, PNP type. I had mine blew out once and replaced them. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If this was the case, then I would have had this problem since I first > installed the unit about a year ago. This problem just started occurring > this past week. I guess I should’ve mentioned that I’ve had the stereo > installed for some time now. And when I installed the stereo, I followed > the wiring diagram explicitly. > I’ll probably take the first respondent’s advice and check the wiring > harness first, to see if any of my splices came loose. You two are both > right, though… this probably is something that is next to impossible to > diagnose over the wire. I just thought somebody might recommend a few > starting points where I could check first so that I might narrow down the > search more quickly. For example, is there a way that I can check to see if > the wiring for the courtesy lights have a short in them somewhere (using a > voltmeter, or something), or should I concentrate my search intently on the > stereo wiring? > And yes, it is kinda funny that my stereo randomly goes on and off with the > opening and closing of different doors on my car, but then again… it’s not > so funny when I contemplate the consequences (electrical fire) that could > result. > -Marcus. > Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. > He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the > Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive > when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy > turby effect. > Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from > scratch. > -Ricky > > You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > > situation. > > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the > ground > > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. > Also, > > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > > Good luck. > > > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an > expert on > > > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > > > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > > > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > > > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > > > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to > come back > > > on. > > > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not > connected > > > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any > alternator > > > whine. > > > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire > was > > > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc > between the > > > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the > cable from > > > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still > connected). > > > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the > doors/trunk, I > > > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring > somehwere. But I > > > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could > reside > > > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow > down the > > > problem? > > > Thanks, > > > Marcus.
Response:
If this was the case, then I would have had this problem since I first installed the unit about a year ago. This problem just started occurring this past week. I guess I should’ve mentioned that I’ve had the stereo installed for some time now. And when I installed the stereo, I followed the wiring diagram explicitly. I’ll probably take the first respondent’s advice and check the wiring harness first, to see if any of my splices came loose. You two are both right, though… this probably is something that is next to impossible to diagnose over the wire. I just thought somebody might recommend a few starting points where I could check first so that I might narrow down the search more quickly. For example, is there a way that I can check to see if the wiring for the courtesy lights have a short in them somewhere (using a voltmeter, or something), or should I concentrate my search intently on the stereo wiring? And yes, it is kinda funny that my stereo randomly goes on and off with the opening and closing of different doors on my car, but then again… it’s not so funny when I contemplate the consequences (electrical fire) that could result. -Marcus.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. > He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the > Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive > when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy > turby effect. > Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from > scratch. > -Ricky > You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > situation. > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the > ground > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. > Also, > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > Good luck. > > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an > expert on > > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to > come back > > on. > > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not > connected > > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any > alternator > > whine. > > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire > was > > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc > between the > > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the > cable from > > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still > connected). > > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the > doors/trunk, I > > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring > somehwere. But I > > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could > reside > > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow > down the > > problem? > > Thanks, > > Marcus.
Response:
Although not necessarily the same situation as you I’ll tell you what happened to a friend’s car. He had a very powerful amplifier in the back of his car 500W+ I think it was. The ground for the amplifier became detached. Now the stereo kept going because there was a ground path down the input audio lines shield and into the head unit, through the negative lead of the CD player, through the vehicle’s dashboard main ground and, however indirectly, to the negative of the car battery. When he goosed the volume one time, the current draw went way up (of course) and smoked the head unit & wiring harness in the dashboard. I’m guessing (and it is a guess in a big way) that something similar has happened to your ride. MC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If this was the case, then I would have had this problem since I first > installed the unit about a year ago. This problem just started occurring > this past week. I guess I should’ve mentioned that I’ve had the stereo > installed for some time now. And when I installed the stereo, I followed > the wiring diagram explicitly. > I’ll probably take the first respondent’s advice and check the wiring > harness first, to see if any of my splices came loose. You two are both > right, though… this probably is something that is next to impossible to > diagnose over the wire. I just thought somebody might recommend a few > starting points where I could check first so that I might narrow down the > search more quickly. For example, is there a way that I can check to see if > the wiring for the courtesy lights have a short in them somewhere (using a > voltmeter, or something), or should I concentrate my search intently on the > stereo wiring? > And yes, it is kinda funny that my stereo randomly goes on and off with the > opening and closing of different doors on my car, but then again… it’s not > so funny when I contemplate the consequences (electrical fire) that could > result. > -Marcus. > Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. > He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the > Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive > when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy > turby effect. > Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from > scratch. > -Ricky > > You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > > situation. > > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the > ground > > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. > Also, > > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > > Good luck. > > > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an > expert on > > > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > > > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > > > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > > > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > > > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to > come back > > > on. > > > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not > connected > > > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any > alternator > > > whine. > > > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire > was > > > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc > between the > > > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the > cable from > > > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still > connected). > > > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the > doors/trunk, I > > > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring > somehwere. But I > > > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could > reside > > > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow > down the > > > problem? > > > Thanks, > > > Marcus.
Response:
OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back on. – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator whine. – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the problem? Thanks, Marcus.
Response:
1) Remove the negative wire from the battery. 2) Disconnect every aftermarket equipment (car stereo and amp) 3) Reconnect the battery and look for failures. If the problem persists, you will have to look for posible short circuit in the door’s trigger switch, if not check the following: 1) Is your amp monted directly on any metal part of the car ? Remember that you must mount your amp insulated from the metal of the car, you can use a pieze of wood to do that. 2) Verify the harness of your stereo and look for any unshield positive wire there. And most important, do something fast because you can burn any of the electronics of the car you have a short circuit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back > on. > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator > whine. > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the > problem? > Thanks, > Marcus.
Response:
You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this situation. That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the ground that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. Also, it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back > on. > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator > whine. > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the > problem? > Thanks, > Marcus.
Response:
Absolutely what I think, diagnosing this thru the net is a fool’s bet. He must’ve hooked at least one of the stereo positive only wire to the Cortesy Control unit. The Cortesy Control unit’s wires become positive when door closed, doors open it becomes ground, AFAIK, thus his topsy turby effect. Solution: Get the service manual wiring diagram and restart from scratch. -Ricky – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You must admit that there is a certain amount of comedy about this > situation. > That said, and with my own experiences, it sounds to me like the ground > that the head unit is attached to is in fact not a ground at all. Also, > it is possible that you’ve smoked some of the factory wiring in the > dash. Troubleshooting this over the ‘net is usually a fool’s bet. > Good luck. > OK. I have an electrical problem and could use the advice of an expert on > how to find the cause. Here are the symptoms: > – Interior (dome/map/trunk) lights don’t work. > – If I have the radio on and open a door, it goes off. > – Pretty much the same goes for the trunk. > – Certain combinations of trunk/door openings cause the radio to come back > on. > – Oh, yeah… I also have a small ‘pop’ in the front speakers (not connected > to the amp) when the radio comes on, but I haven’t noticed any alternator > whine. > – When I was unhooking my amp once, even thought the positive wire was > already disconnect from the battery, there was an electrical arc between the > chassis of the amp and the screwdriver when I was unscrewing the cable from > the amp. (The ground wire and ‘remote source’ wire were still connected). > Here’s my problem. Since the problem occurs when I open the doors/trunk, I > would think that the problem exists in the factory wiring somehwere. But I > do have an aftermarket radio/amp/CD changer, so the problem could reside > there, also. Where should I start looking, and how can I narrow down the > problem? > Thanks, > Marcus.
