ABS Brakes
Question:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know how to change the wheel sensor for ABS brakes, on a > 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT? > Both the front and rear speed sensors are integral with the wheel bearing > and hub assembly. So the basic procedure would be to: remove the brake > caliper and rotor, (for the front) remove the large axle shaft nut, remove > the > three bolts that secure the wheel bearing and hub to knuckle, unplug the > sensor wiring, remove the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle and axle. > Same procedure for the rear, other then the fact that there is no axle > going > thru the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. > Ian
Ian, thats exactly what they replaced on my Montana 2002. The front l/s hub !!! man oh man, thank God that was on warranty. what they were thinking…. is there a way for a mechanic a home to open the housing ( pressing off the brg) and fixing the probe gear or probe wire ? I will not likely spend money on ABS if I really can avoid it. Can you damage something if you just decide to ignore the stupid light ? Thank God I am still on warranty, the lower intake 2 weeks ago, and the Hub this week !!!
Response:
> Ian, thats exactly what they replaced on my Montana 2002. The front > l/s hub !!! man oh man, thank God that was on warranty. what they > were thinking…. is there a way for a mechanic a home to open the > housing ( pressing off the brg) and fixing the probe gear or probe > wire ?
I suppose a person could try, but we simply don’t get into that at all. (It’s not our money, and all that). Front wheel bearing and hub replacements on the U-vans are very common. Either ABS problems, or noise problems. I just did one on a Trailblazer last week, the bearing and hub cost over $1000 dollars canadian. Fortunately, it was under warranty. > I will not likely spend money on ABS if I really can avoid it. Can > you damage something if you just decide to ignore the stupid light ?
No, not really. Most of the newer systems really do simply default to the base hydraulic brakes. There is very little chance that anything in the modulator valve will screw up and affect the base brakes. There were some older model ABS systems that were quite integrated, in other words, the brake assist was also supplied by the abs system, and then there were some models that use electric motors and gear systems to move the valves, these could get stuck in bad positions and cause problems. But the newer systems seem to be fairly foolproof when there is a "detected" ABS problem. Ian
Response:
They replaced the LH hub on my ‘04 Montana last week…cause the ABS light was coming on….something about a connector breaking, but the ABS light is coming on again….maybe they’ll do the other side this time.. 
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Does anyone know how to change the wheel sensor for ABS brakes, on a >>1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT? >Both the front and rear speed sensors are integral with the wheel bearing >and hub assembly. So the basic procedure would be to: remove the brake >caliper and rotor, (for the front) remove the large axle shaft nut, remove >the >three bolts that secure the wheel bearing and hub to knuckle, unplug the >sensor wiring, remove the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle and axle. >Same procedure for the rear, other then the fact that there is no axle >going >thru the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. >Ian > Ian, thats exactly what they replaced on my Montana 2002. The front l/s hub > !!! man oh man, thank God that was on warranty. what they were thinking…. > is there a way for a mechanic a home to open the housing ( pressing off the > brg) and fixing the probe gear or probe wire ? > I will not likely spend money on ABS if I really can avoid it. Can you > damage something if you just decide to ignore the stupid light ? > Thank God I am still on warranty, the lower intake 2 weeks ago, and the Hub > this week !!!
Response:
Thanks Ian, I think the fuse will be pulled or the ABS bulb will come out. That’s to much trouble to fix. Thanks again. Jeff
> Does anyone know how to change the wheel sensor for ABS brakes, on a > 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT?
Both the front and rear speed sensors are integral with the wheel bearing and hub assembly. So the basic procedure would be to: remove the brake caliper and rotor, (for the front) remove the large axle shaft nut, remove the three bolts that secure the wheel bearing and hub to knuckle, unplug the sensor wiring, remove the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle and axle. Same procedure for the rear, other then the fact that there is no axle going thru the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. Ian
Response:
Have you properly had or performed the correct diagnosis to ensure the problem is definitely with the wheel speed sensor? For safety reasons, I would highly recommend not ignoring the problem by pulling fuses or removing warning lights. Under the right circumstances, you might just find yourself without brakes at all when you need them most. Roger
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks Ian, > I think the fuse will be pulled or the ABS bulb will come out. That’s to > much trouble to fix. > Thanks again. > Jeff > Does anyone know how to change the wheel sensor for ABS brakes, on a > 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT? > Both the front and rear speed sensors are integral with the wheel bearing > and hub assembly. So the basic procedure would be to: remove the brake > caliper and rotor, (for the front) remove the large axle shaft nut, remove > the > three bolts that secure the wheel bearing and hub to knuckle, unplug the > sensor wiring, remove the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle and axle. > Same procedure for the rear, other then the fact that there is no axle > going > thru the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. > Ian
Response:
Does anyone know how to change the wheel sensor for ABS brakes, on a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT? Thanks. Jeff
Response:
> Does anyone know how to change the wheel sensor for ABS brakes, on a > 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT?
Both the front and rear speed sensors are integral with the wheel bearing and hub assembly. So the basic procedure would be to: remove the brake caliper and rotor, (for the front) remove the large axle shaft nut, remove the three bolts that secure the wheel bearing and hub to knuckle, unplug the sensor wiring, remove the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle and axle. Same procedure for the rear, other then the fact that there is no axle going thru the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. Ian
Response:
I have a 93 Cavalier with ABS break system. The AbS light comes on perodically. The break pedal has went to the floor 2x. There is no fluid loss, all weel cylinders are not leaking , and pads are good condition. After the brakes go to the floor it has a hard pedal, then goes back to normal. Possibly the master cylinder. I took the master and the ABS system off the car but all the manuals recommend unloading the ABS system (motors) . Any suggestions.
Response:
First of all you gotta figure out why the light comes on, or else you’re basically shooting in the dark. You’re going to need a code scanner for that, I believe, so unless you have one it’s off to the mechanic you go.. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 93 Cavalier with ABS break system. The AbS light comes on > perodically. The break pedal has went to the floor 2x. There is no > fluid loss, all weel cylinders are not leaking , and pads are good > condition. After the brakes go to the floor it has a hard pedal, then > goes back to normal. Possibly the master cylinder. I took the master > and the ABS system off the car but all the manuals recommend unloading > the ABS system (motors) . Any suggestions.
Response:
AutoZone sells a scanner made by Actron that will read your ABS codes along with your engine codes. It is very reasonably priced (around $30.00 if I remember correctly). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >First of all you gotta figure out why the light comes on, or else you’re >basically shooting in the dark. You’re going to need a code scanner for >that, I believe, so unless you have one it’s off to the mechanic you go..
Response:
Look at the diagnostic connector under the dash (normally right under the steering wheel). Jumper the upper right pin to the upper left one and turn the ignition on (don’t start the engine,just turn on the power). Then count the flashes of the ABS dash light. This is the numerical code. Fun part is finding a manual that interprets them for you. I have one for engine codes, but not for ABS. Anyone here have an ABS code reference? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >First of all you gotta figure out why the light comes on, or else you’re >basically shooting in the dark. You’re going to need a code scanner for >that, I believe, so unless you have one it’s off to the mechanic you go.. >– >Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada >Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr > I have a 93 Cavalier with ABS break system. The AbS light comes on > perodically. The break pedal has went to the floor 2x. There is no > fluid loss, all weel cylinders are not leaking , and pads are good > condition. After the brakes go to the floor it has a hard pedal, then > goes back to normal. Possibly the master cylinder. I took the master > and the ABS system off the car but all the manuals recommend unloading > the ABS system (motors) . Any suggestions.
Response:
>Look at the diagnostic connector under the dash (normally right under the >steering wheel). Jumper the upper right pin to the upper left one and turn >the ignition on (don’t start the engine,just turn on the power). Then count >the flashes of the ABS dash light. This is the numerical code. Fun part is >finding a manual that interprets them for you. I have one for engine codes, >but not for ABS. Anyone here have an ABS code reference?
With the Scanner I mentioned that is basically what you are paying for. The "Scan tool" is simply a jumper (enclosed in plastic so you really can’t tell what it is), but it comes with a manual which lists the ABS codes.
Response:
The Haynes for my 94 Blazer has the ABS codes in it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Look at the diagnostic connector under the dash (normally right under the > steering wheel). Jumper the upper right pin to the upper left one and turn > the ignition on (don’t start the engine,just turn on the power). Then count > the flashes of the ABS dash light. This is the numerical code. Fun part is > finding a manual that interprets them for you. I have one for engine codes, > but not for ABS. Anyone here have an ABS code reference? >First of all you gotta figure out why the light comes on, or else you’re >basically shooting in the dark. You’re going to need a code scanner for >that, I believe, so unless you have one it’s off to the mechanic you go.. >– >Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada >Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr >> I have a 93 Cavalier with ABS break system. The AbS light comes on >> perodically. The break pedal has went to the floor 2x. There is no >> fluid loss, all weel cylinders are not leaking , and pads are good >> condition. After the brakes go to the floor it has a hard pedal, then >> goes back to normal. Possibly the master cylinder. I took the master >> and the ABS system off the car but all the manuals recommend unloading >> the ABS system (motors) . Any suggestions.
Response:
Ok, group I hope you have a solution. It has to be a common occurance. My 2000 GMC Z71 is a beautiful truck. The only problem I have encountered is with the brakes. If I have to stop hard (for example on a light change) and after hitting the brake I hit a bump or pot hole in the road my brakes get "harder". I can hear my ABS motor working but my stopping distance increases and that worries me. I have been to the dealer but they say it is "normal". I bought the truck new and the problem has always existed. I think it is anything but "normal". Thanks for your input. Gary
Response:
What’s happening is that as you hit the bump the tire will skip and possibly stop turning briefly making the ABS computer think the tire stopped moving and causing it to pump. Not much you CAN do. I’ve experienced this in other GM vehicles… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Ok, group I hope you have a solution. It has to be a common occurance. >My 2000 GMC Z71 is a beautiful truck. The only problem I have encountered is >with the brakes. If I have to stop hard (for example on a light change) and >after hitting the brake I hit a bump or pot hole in the road my brakes get >"harder". I can hear my ABS motor working but my stopping distance increases >and that worries me. >I have been to the dealer but they say it is "normal". >I bought the truck new and the problem has always existed. >I think it is anything but "normal". >Thanks for your input. >Gary
Response:
> What’s happening is that as you hit the bump the tire will skip and > possibly stop turning briefly making the ABS computer think the tire > stopped moving and causing it to pump. Not much you CAN do. I’ve > experienced this in other GM vehicles…
As have I, both GM and other brand vehicles. Solution is to look try to find a vehicle without ABS. Thats getting hard though since people think they improve safety.
Response:
> Ok, group I hope you have a solution. It has to be a common occurance. > My 2000 GMC Z71 is a beautiful truck. The only problem I have encountered is > with the brakes. If I have to stop hard (for example on a light change) and > after hitting the brake I hit a bump or pot hole in the road my brakes get > "harder". I can hear my ABS motor working but my stopping distance increases > and that worries me. > I have been to the dealer but they say it is "normal". > I bought the truck new and the problem has always existed. > I think it is anything but "normal". > Thanks for your input. > Gary
Do you have stock sized tires? Larger tires definitely amplify the problem. I have 287/75s on mine and it was pretty bad. Once the abs kicked in, the truck would not stop. I took it to the dealer and they uploaded some new firmware that was just released (about 2 years ago) and the problem seems to be much better. If you still have the original code, might be worth looking into. Derek
Response:
The problem with ‘just doing nothing’ is that the ABS pump will continue to run as the ABS computer will tell it there is insufficient pressure. This will do two things – 1. – Wear out the pump for no reason. 2. – Make an annoying noise that will become more and more frequent. I suggest pulling the ABS fuse(s) if you wish to ignore it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If you dont want to fix it then do what the other poster said. Except > for the disabling the abs part. You actually dont have to do anything > except stare at the light I guess. When the abs light comes on the ABS > system is disabled automatically. You are driving your car right now and > using just the normal braking system. The abs is automatically bypassed. >Hi, >I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this > to >the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. >Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". >Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I >heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? >Thanks. >Please email a copy of the response. >– >- >Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
Thanks for the Reponses so far. The car has approximately 190,000 KM on it. Is this normal behavior with or is it too soon? Thanks.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to > the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. > Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". > Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I > heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? > Thanks. > Please email a copy of the response. > — > – > Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
I had the same problem with my 90 legend. there was that terrible noise all the time. the dealer said abs modulator was the problem and asked $1600 to fix it. I wrote to this news group and somebody gave me really good advice (told me to make some hard stops on dirt roads to activate abs which opened up stuck solenoid) and the problem was gone. no more abs light on the dashboard and that stupid noise. If I were you, I would wana know for sure if the modulator is the real problem before doing anything. it may very well me that some other thing like sensors, solenoids and… may be the problem
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The problem with ‘just doing nothing’ is that the ABS pump will continue to > run as the ABS computer will tell it there is insufficient pressure. This > will do two things – > 1. – Wear out the pump for no reason. 2. – Make an annoying noise that will > become more and more frequent. > I suggest pulling the ABS fuse(s) if you wish to ignore it.
Response:
I to had this problem with my 96 TL and was recomended to work the ABS on some gravel a couple times becuase there was likely dirt or something cloging it and it would not prime when you started the car…..it worked like a charm for me also….I also had the system bleed after that! No more light!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I had the same problem with my 90 legend. there was that terrible noise all > the time. the dealer said abs modulator was the problem and asked $1600 to > fix it. I wrote to this news group and somebody gave me really good advice > (told me to make some hard stops on dirt roads to activate abs which opened > up stuck solenoid) and the problem was gone. no more abs light on the > dashboard and that stupid noise. > If I were you, I would wana know for sure if the modulator is the real > problem before doing anything. it may very well me that some other thing > like sensors, solenoids and… may be the problem > The problem with ‘just doing nothing’ is that the ABS pump will continue > to > run as the ABS computer will tell it there is insufficient pressure. This > will do two things – > 1. – Wear out the pump for no reason. 2. – Make an annoying noise that > will > become more and more frequent. > I suggest pulling the ABS fuse(s) if you wish to ignore it.
Response:
Hi, I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? Thanks. Please email a copy of the response. — – Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
Second hand modulator is one option. Another option is to disable ABS altogether. Some insurance companies will have a problem though if you disable it (they then consider the car ‘dangerous’) You will still have your normal braking system but your ABS system will not function…. Final option – start saving your pennies!! (sorry) Good Luck!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to > the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. > Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". > Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I > heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? > Thanks. > Please email a copy of the response. > — > – > Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
If you dont want to fix it then do what the other poster said. Except for the disabling the abs part. You actually dont have to do anything except stare at the light I guess. When the abs light comes on the ABS system is disabled automatically. You are driving your car right now and using just the normal braking system. The abs is automatically bypassed. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to >the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. >Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". >Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I >heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? >Thanks. >Please email a copy of the response. >– >- >Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
The problem with ‘just doing nothing’ is that the ABS pump will continue to run as the ABS computer will tell it there is insufficient pressure. This will do two things – 1. – Wear out the pump for no reason. 2. – Make an annoying noise that will become more and more frequent. I suggest pulling the ABS fuse(s) if you wish to ignore it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If you dont want to fix it then do what the other poster said. Except > for the disabling the abs part. You actually dont have to do anything > except stare at the light I guess. When the abs light comes on the ABS > system is disabled automatically. You are driving your car right now and > using just the normal braking system. The abs is automatically bypassed. >Hi, >I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this > to >the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. >Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". >Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I >heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? >Thanks. >Please email a copy of the response. >– >- >Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
Thanks for the Reponses so far. The car has approximately 190,000 KM on it. Is this normal behavior with or is it too soon? Thanks.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to > the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. > Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". > Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I > heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? > Thanks. > Please email a copy of the response. > — > – > Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
I had the same problem with my 90 legend. there was that terrible noise all the time. the dealer said abs modulator was the problem and asked $1600 to fix it. I wrote to this news group and somebody gave me really good advice (told me to make some hard stops on dirt roads to activate abs which opened up stuck solenoid) and the problem was gone. no more abs light on the dashboard and that stupid noise. If I were you, I would wana know for sure if the modulator is the real problem before doing anything. it may very well me that some other thing like sensors, solenoids and… may be the problem
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The problem with ‘just doing nothing’ is that the ABS pump will continue to > run as the ABS computer will tell it there is insufficient pressure. This > will do two things – > 1. – Wear out the pump for no reason. 2. – Make an annoying noise that will > become more and more frequent. > I suggest pulling the ABS fuse(s) if you wish to ignore it.
Response:
I to had this problem with my 96 TL and was recomended to work the ABS on some gravel a couple times becuase there was likely dirt or something cloging it and it would not prime when you started the car…..it worked like a charm for me also….I also had the system bleed after that! No more light!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I had the same problem with my 90 legend. there was that terrible noise all > the time. the dealer said abs modulator was the problem and asked $1600 to > fix it. I wrote to this news group and somebody gave me really good advice > (told me to make some hard stops on dirt roads to activate abs which opened > up stuck solenoid) and the problem was gone. no more abs light on the > dashboard and that stupid noise. > If I were you, I would wana know for sure if the modulator is the real > problem before doing anything. it may very well me that some other thing > like sensors, solenoids and… may be the problem > The problem with ‘just doing nothing’ is that the ABS pump will continue > to > run as the ABS computer will tell it there is insufficient pressure. This > will do two things – > 1. – Wear out the pump for no reason. 2. – Make an annoying noise that > will > become more and more frequent. > I suggest pulling the ABS fuse(s) if you wish to ignore it.
Response:
Hi, I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? Thanks. Please email a copy of the response. — – Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
Second hand modulator is one option. Another option is to disable ABS altogether. Some insurance companies will have a problem though if you disable it (they then consider the car ‘dangerous’) You will still have your normal braking system but your ABS system will not function…. Final option – start saving your pennies!! (sorry) Good Luck!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to > the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. > Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". > Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I > heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? > Thanks. > Please email a copy of the response. > — > – > Christopher Ching’anda
Response:
If you dont want to fix it then do what the other poster said. Except for the disabling the abs part. You actually dont have to do anything except stare at the light I guess. When the abs light comes on the ABS system is disabled automatically. You are driving your car right now and using just the normal braking system. The abs is automatically bypassed. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >I own a 92 Acura Integra GS. I absolutely love the car. I would post this to >the Acura news group but my provider does not provide it so here I am. >Anyway, the ABS light came on and the dealer says its the "ABS modulator". >Apparently its $2000.00 CAN to replace. Yeah, my tongue fell out too when I >heard the price. So, I ask you fellow Honda lovers, what are my options? >Thanks. >Please email a copy of the response. >– >- >Christopher Ching’anda
