99 Suburban Dirty Injectors
Question:
I’ve heard people say this before. When I was running the Toyota on a regular basis, I used mid range (89 Octane) and sometimes premium and never really noticed a difference. What I did find though was that when I ran the "better" brand fuels (shell/Union), I would get ping’ing with 87 Octane. When I started using the off brands (Rotten Robbie, USA Gasoline etc.) I found the car would run just fine with 87 Octane. Kind of bizarre. So, I just figured I’d stick with 87 Octane on all the vehicles using the off brands. I’ve been told outfits like USA actually buy surplus fuel from the refineries so you may actually be buying Shell or Unocal fuels at these places. I’ll have to do something a bit more scientific in terms of measuring mileage with different Octane fuels. The Suburban has such a large tank that I keep forgetting to check the mileage after fillups 
Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi. > Not sure if you’re using regular or premium grade gas, but my > personal experience is that premium, although it costs more per > fillup, give me enough better gas mileage to about offset the > difference. Plus, engine runs cleaner, lasts longer (IMO) > I have 110,000 miles, no injector troubles (Just about everything else > that can break, has though!!) > If you have been using regular, it may take a couple of tanks of > premium to really show an improvement. > My truck (‘97 GMC) does run fine on regular,but instead of > ~450 miles per tank, I get about 400 miles.
Response:
> Hey Doc, > I did the treatment with a single bottle but I only added it to a partially > filled tank. I bought the bottle at Kragen and the one I bought claimed to > be able to treat 16 gallons of fuel (which is less than half a tank on > a 47 gallon suburban). At Kragen, I paid less than $4 for the bottle. > We’ll see how it goes. I should throw some in the RV (Ford 460 ci > EFI) as that vehicle tends to run rough sometimes as well but I’ve never > gotten a service light on the dash with it. > Pete
Pete, Read the instructions next time! LOL. It says add to partially filled gas tank, then fill to full! You gotta top her up after you dump it in to get it nice and mixed in! Also, (1) bottle won’t do it if the injectors are in fact clogged. The idea is to blast the fuel system with cleaner over a period of time to break loose and dissolve the deposits. If you notice no improvement, run her down to near empty <I know I know, bad for fuel pump but once won’t hurt>, dump 3 bottles of the 16 gallon formula in there, fill it up to FULL, and drive till near empty again. Regards, Doc
Response:
> 3) Gas is gas. Buy it from a place that turns it over quickly, you are > less likely to end up with a lot of water in it.
For the most part, this is true. The only difference in the various brands of gas are the additives — and some brands put in additives to clean injectors.
Response:
Yeah, depends a lot on where you live in California. I’m over here in San Jose and we don’t get what anyone would call real weather. I grew up in the Central Valley and aside from more extreme temp swings, you get some serious fog. We head over to the valley to visit relatives and I can watch the thermometer reliably dip 10 degrees from the Bay Area in the winter. In the summer, it climbs 10 degrees from here. My Dad had problems with water in diesel in the Modesto area. With diesel, the water would sit on the bottom of the fuel tank and eventually cause small pin holes in the tank. I suppose this also depends alot on where your fuel comes from. I may be feeling pretty safe over here only to find out they store the fuel I buy in Sacramento Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We do get condensation however. I have to drain water out of the tank on an old > IH Scout that sits most of the year in Sacramento. Fixed a problem with in-laws > Camry in LA by running pint of rubbing alcohol through it (it allows the water > and gas to mix). > Hey Dean, > As for the water remover, the climate here in California is very > mild so I doubt water is the problem. We consider it a big deal if > we get rain here so weather and humidity is kind of a non issue (I think). > I see you are a fan of Chevron (I think Techroline is ’special sauce’ > they advertise). I think the dealer manager mentioned that one as > well but he had his heart set on Union 76 as the best choice. Sounds > like you feel this might help keep things clean. Seems to me that > items 1 and 3 contradict a bit….if gas is gas why go with Techroline? > I did just get the vehicle back and it looks like this time it was the > injector > in Cyl 7 that was stuck this time. They cleaned it and sent me on my way. > Last > time (at about 30k miles) it was Cyl 5 so at least its not the same cylinder. > Looks like this vehicle is going to have an injector problem every 30k miles > unless I do something with the gas or an additive. Sigh…. > On item 4 (the battery), this was an OEM original battery and I never > did anything with the cables. If they were overtightened, they were > done so at the factory and it took 4 years for the crack to happen. I > should check the new one they put in I guess since it too is a Delco > battery. > I’m with you on number 5. These trucks can definately haul. However, > that’s what they were designed to do. I just think we (U.S.) could do > a better job in terms of reliability. If the Japanese start making full size > trucks (some argue they already are with the Tundra/T100 lines), the U.S. > manufacturers are going to really start getting whacked in apples to apples > reliability comparisons. My Suburban already has seen the back end of > a tow truck at ~40k miles (due to the battery failure) which isn’t good. > Don’t even get me started about my ‘89 E-350 Ford RV oil leaks though > Thanks for the feedback. > Pete > > Pete, > > 1) Run Chevron Techron (NO substitutes) with every oil change (3k miles). > > 2) STP Water remover (contains no alcohol) with every other tank if you > > live in a cold damp climate; otherwise every month or two. > > 3) Gas is gas. Buy it from a place that turns it over quickly, you are > > less likely to end up with a lot of water in it. > > 4) The battery problem is due to a positive cable bolt that is 1/8" too > > long. Tightening it too much cracks the battery case, the electrolyte > > eats the cables. Grind 3/16" off it. > > 5) OK, so Chevy has lots of reliability problems. But I’ve hauled 5,200 > > lb of patio stone in mine. Could you have done that with your toy truck? > > Dean > > > Hi There, > > > I now have my 350 CID Vortec Suburban (1500 4×4, SLT) in the shop > > > (again) as I got a > > > ‘Service Engine Soon’ light on the dash coupled with rough idle when > > > cold. Usually once the > > > engine warms up, the rough running clears up. > > > I’ve had this happen before and the dealer that did the work says the > > > ECM called out a > > > dirty injector. They cleaned things and all was good for awhile. > > > Seems like this is getting to be a recurring problem. I’ve talked to > > > Customers in the GMC > > > waiting room that indicate they have had the same problems with their > > > late model Suburbans. > > > I guess I have two questions: > > > a) Would occasional use of an injector cleaner/fuel additive help with > > > this? The dealer > > > this morning said I should only use high end gas (Union > > > 76/Shell). Sheesh, given > > > the mileage of this beast, going to yuppie gas stations seems > > > extreme but maybe he > > > is right. Not sure I believe this story though since I have two > > > other vehicles with EFI > > > that have never had this problem with the same gas. I frequent USA > > > or Rotten Robbie > > > stations that easily beat the other stations by at least .10/gal > > > (usually even by more). > > > b) How hard is it for a shade tree mechanic to perform the same > > > injector service. So > > > far my extended warranty has covered this but I’m just wondering > > > what I’m going > > > to do when that runs out. > > > I’ve had a number of Japanese vehicles and so far the Suburban’s quality > > > hasn’t compared well. > > > This vehicle (w/ 57k miles) has had the following done under warranty: > > > Air Conditioning condesor/dryer replacement > > > Rebuild of P/S pump (leaky seals) > > > Replace water pump (leaks) > > > Remove and re-seal intake manifold (due to leaking coolant) > > > 2 incidents of clogged/dirty injectors resulting in ECM codes > > > Failed Battery with associated acid leaks requiring battery cable > > > replacements (not covered by warranty) > > > Broken rear door latch > > > Geez, my ‘87 Toyota pickup has 230k miles and I’ve changed the oil and > > > spark plugs. Oh yeah, had > > > to replace the brakes once. That’s it! Too bad I love the Suburban so > > > much > > > Anybody else having similar issues with their Suburbans? > > > Pete
Response:
Hey Doc, I did the treatment with a single bottle but I only added it to a partially filled tank. I bought the bottle at Kragen and the one I bought claimed to be able to treat 16 gallons of fuel (which is less than half a tank on a 47 gallon suburban). At Kragen, I paid less than $4 for the bottle. We’ll see how it goes. I should throw some in the RV (Ford 460 ci EFI) as that vehicle tends to run rough sometimes as well but I’ve never gotten a service light on the dash with it. Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for clearing this up Doc. I wasn’t aware Chevron made a fuel > additive > called Techron. I’ll get some and give this a shot. Has got to be better > than > cleaning injectors > It is. Read the instruction on the bottle when you go to the store as they > have several different sizes. The most common size bottle treats up to 12 > gallons so you might need anywhere from 2-3 bottles to effectively treat > your tank. Repeat every 3k and you’ll never have to have your injectors > cleaned again. > Regards, > Doc
Response:
We do get condensation however. I have to drain water out of the tank on an old IH Scout that sits most of the year in Sacramento. Fixed a problem with in-laws Camry in LA by running pint of rubbing alcohol through it (it allows the water and gas to mix). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey Dean, > As for the water remover, the climate here in California is very > mild so I doubt water is the problem. We consider it a big deal if > we get rain here so weather and humidity is kind of a non issue (I think). > I see you are a fan of Chevron (I think Techroline is ’special sauce’ > they advertise). I think the dealer manager mentioned that one as > well but he had his heart set on Union 76 as the best choice. Sounds > like you feel this might help keep things clean. Seems to me that > items 1 and 3 contradict a bit….if gas is gas why go with Techroline? > I did just get the vehicle back and it looks like this time it was the > injector > in Cyl 7 that was stuck this time. They cleaned it and sent me on my way. > Last > time (at about 30k miles) it was Cyl 5 so at least its not the same cylinder. > Looks like this vehicle is going to have an injector problem every 30k miles > unless I do something with the gas or an additive. Sigh…. > On item 4 (the battery), this was an OEM original battery and I never > did anything with the cables. If they were overtightened, they were > done so at the factory and it took 4 years for the crack to happen. I > should check the new one they put in I guess since it too is a Delco > battery. > I’m with you on number 5. These trucks can definately haul. However, > that’s what they were designed to do. I just think we (U.S.) could do > a better job in terms of reliability. If the Japanese start making full size > trucks (some argue they already are with the Tundra/T100 lines), the U.S. > manufacturers are going to really start getting whacked in apples to apples > reliability comparisons. My Suburban already has seen the back end of > a tow truck at ~40k miles (due to the battery failure) which isn’t good. > Don’t even get me started about my ‘89 E-350 Ford RV oil leaks though > Thanks for the feedback. > Pete > Pete, > 1) Run Chevron Techron (NO substitutes) with every oil change (3k miles). > 2) STP Water remover (contains no alcohol) with every other tank if you > live in a cold damp climate; otherwise every month or two. > 3) Gas is gas. Buy it from a place that turns it over quickly, you are > less likely to end up with a lot of water in it. > 4) The battery problem is due to a positive cable bolt that is 1/8" too > long. Tightening it too much cracks the battery case, the electrolyte > eats the cables. Grind 3/16" off it. > 5) OK, so Chevy has lots of reliability problems. But I’ve hauled 5,200 > lb of patio stone in mine. Could you have done that with your toy truck? > Dean > > Hi There, > > I now have my 350 CID Vortec Suburban (1500 4×4, SLT) in the shop > > (again) as I got a > > ‘Service Engine Soon’ light on the dash coupled with rough idle when > > cold. Usually once the > > engine warms up, the rough running clears up. > > I’ve had this happen before and the dealer that did the work says the > > ECM called out a > > dirty injector. They cleaned things and all was good for awhile. > > Seems like this is getting to be a recurring problem. I’ve talked to > > Customers in the GMC > > waiting room that indicate they have had the same problems with their > > late model Suburbans. > > I guess I have two questions: > > a) Would occasional use of an injector cleaner/fuel additive help with > > this? The dealer > > this morning said I should only use high end gas (Union > > 76/Shell). Sheesh, given > > the mileage of this beast, going to yuppie gas stations seems > > extreme but maybe he > > is right. Not sure I believe this story though since I have two > > other vehicles with EFI > > that have never had this problem with the same gas. I frequent USA > > or Rotten Robbie > > stations that easily beat the other stations by at least .10/gal > > (usually even by more). > > b) How hard is it for a shade tree mechanic to perform the same > > injector service. So > > far my extended warranty has covered this but I’m just wondering > > what I’m going > > to do when that runs out. > > I’ve had a number of Japanese vehicles and so far the Suburban’s quality > > hasn’t compared well. > > This vehicle (w/ 57k miles) has had the following done under warranty: > > Air Conditioning condesor/dryer replacement > > Rebuild of P/S pump (leaky seals) > > Replace water pump (leaks) > > Remove and re-seal intake manifold (due to leaking coolant) > > 2 incidents of clogged/dirty injectors resulting in ECM codes > > Failed Battery with associated acid leaks requiring battery cable > > replacements (not covered by warranty) > > Broken rear door latch > > Geez, my ‘87 Toyota pickup has 230k miles and I’ve changed the oil and > > spark plugs. Oh yeah, had > > to replace the brakes once. That’s it! Too bad I love the Suburban so > > much > > Anybody else having similar issues with their Suburbans? > > Pete
Response:
Thanks for clearing this up Doc. I wasn’t aware Chevron made a fuel additive called Techron. I’ll get some and give this a shot. Has got to be better than cleaning injectors Thanks again. Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey Dean, > As for the water remover, the climate here in California is very > mild so I doubt water is the problem. We consider it a big deal if > we get rain here so weather and humidity is kind of a non issue (I think). > I see you are a fan of Chevron (I think Techroline is ’special sauce’ > they advertise). I think the dealer manager mentioned that one as > well but he had his heart set on Union 76 as the best choice. Sounds > like you feel this might help keep things clean. Seems to me that > items 1 and 3 contradict a bit….if gas is gas why go with Techroline? > Pete, > He said Chevrom Techron, not Chervron Techroline. Chevron Techron is a fuel > injector cleaner additive <not a line of gasoline> that you add directly to > your gas tank. You should run 1-2 bottles (depending on the size of your > gas tank) every 3000 miles. This will keep your injectors clean and keep > them from sticking. Can be bought at Wal-Mart, Autozone, NAPA, etc. > Regards, > Doc
Response:
I’m with the Doc on this one, Techron has cleared up or maintained the fix on a whole slew of fuel related driveability problems. Wasn’t aware Wally carried it, I’ll have to look. Have a great one! Bush – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi There, >I now have my 350 CID Vortec Suburban (1500 4×4, SLT) in the shop >(again) as I got a >’Service Engine Soon’ light on the dash coupled with rough idle when >cold. Usually once the >engine warms up, the rough running clears up. >I’ve had this happen before and the dealer that did the work says the >ECM called out a >dirty injector. They cleaned things and all was good for awhile. >Seems like this is getting to be a recurring problem. I’ve talked to >Customers in the GMC >waiting room that indicate they have had the same problems with their >late model Suburbans. >I guess I have two questions: > a) Would occasional use of an injector cleaner/fuel additive help with >this? The dealer > this morning said I should only use high end gas (Union >76/Shell). Sheesh, given > the mileage of this beast, going to yuppie gas stations seems >extreme but maybe he > is right. Not sure I believe this story though since I have two >other vehicles with EFI > that have never had this problem with the same gas. I frequent USA >or Rotten Robbie > stations that easily beat the other stations by at least .10/gal >(usually even by more). > b) How hard is it for a shade tree mechanic to perform the same >injector service. So > far my extended warranty has covered this but I’m just wondering >what I’m going > to do when that runs out. >I’ve had a number of Japanese vehicles and so far the Suburban’s quality >hasn’t compared well. >This vehicle (w/ 57k miles) has had the following done under warranty: > Air Conditioning condesor/dryer replacement > Rebuild of P/S pump (leaky seals) > Replace water pump (leaks) > Remove and re-seal intake manifold (due to leaking coolant) > 2 incidents of clogged/dirty injectors resulting in ECM codes > Failed Battery with associated acid leaks requiring battery cable >replacements (not covered by warranty) > Broken rear door latch >Geez, my ‘87 Toyota pickup has 230k miles and I’ve changed the oil and >spark plugs. Oh yeah, had >to replace the brakes once. That’s it! Too bad I love the Suburban so >much >Anybody else having similar issues with their Suburbans? >Pete
Response:
Hi. Not sure if you’re using regular or premium grade gas, but my personal experience is that premium, although it costs more per fillup, give me enough better gas mileage to about offset the difference. Plus, engine runs cleaner, lasts longer (IMO) I have 110,000 miles, no injector troubles (Just about everything else that can break, has though!!) If you have been using regular, it may take a couple of tanks of premium to really show an improvement. My truck (‘97 GMC) does run fine on regular,but instead of ~450 miles per tank, I get about 400 miles.
Response:
> Thanks for clearing this up Doc. I wasn’t aware Chevron made a fuel additive > called Techron. I’ll get some and give this a shot. Has got to be better than > cleaning injectors
It is. Read the instruction on the bottle when you go to the store as they have several different sizes. The most common size bottle treats up to 12 gallons so you might need anywhere from 2-3 bottles to effectively treat your tank. Repeat every 3k and you’ll never have to have your injectors cleaned again. Regards, Doc
Response:
> Hey Dean, > As for the water remover, the climate here in California is very > mild so I doubt water is the problem. We consider it a big deal if > we get rain here so weather and humidity is kind of a non issue (I think). > I see you are a fan of Chevron (I think Techroline is ’special sauce’ > they advertise). I think the dealer manager mentioned that one as > well but he had his heart set on Union 76 as the best choice. Sounds > like you feel this might help keep things clean. Seems to me that > items 1 and 3 contradict a bit….if gas is gas why go with Techroline?
Pete, He said Chevrom Techron, not Chervron Techroline. Chevron Techron is a fuel injector cleaner additive <not a line of gasoline> that you add directly to your gas tank. You should run 1-2 bottles (depending on the size of your gas tank) every 3000 miles. This will keep your injectors clean and keep them from sticking. Can be bought at Wal-Mart, Autozone, NAPA, etc. Regards, Doc
Response:
The subject of reliability. Auto makers have to find a happy medium with performance and retention. If they make a vehicle that is reliability to a number of years then they will have a repeat buyer, If the customer was happy with the performance of the vehicle. If they made a vehicle that stayed on the road for ten years. Then what would they do after the first five years? Go out of business. Joe This is why alot of people are buying older cars and trucks. So that they can work on them without all the computer equipment.(that will be out of date in two years)
Response:
Pete, 1) Run Chevron Techron (NO substitutes) with every oil change (3k miles). 2) STP Water remover (contains no alcohol) with every other tank if you live in a cold damp climate; otherwise every month or two. 3) Gas is gas. Buy it from a place that turns it over quickly, you are less likely to end up with a lot of water in it. 4) The battery problem is due to a positive cable bolt that is 1/8" too long. Tightening it too much cracks the battery case, the electrolyte eats the cables. Grind 3/16" off it. 5) OK, so Chevy has lots of reliability problems. But I’ve hauled 5,200 lb of patio stone in mine. Could you have done that with your toy truck? Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi There, > I now have my 350 CID Vortec Suburban (1500 4×4, SLT) in the shop > (again) as I got a > ‘Service Engine Soon’ light on the dash coupled with rough idle when > cold. Usually once the > engine warms up, the rough running clears up. > I’ve had this happen before and the dealer that did the work says the > ECM called out a > dirty injector. They cleaned things and all was good for awhile. > Seems like this is getting to be a recurring problem. I’ve talked to > Customers in the GMC > waiting room that indicate they have had the same problems with their > late model Suburbans. > I guess I have two questions: > a) Would occasional use of an injector cleaner/fuel additive help with > this? The dealer > this morning said I should only use high end gas (Union > 76/Shell). Sheesh, given > the mileage of this beast, going to yuppie gas stations seems > extreme but maybe he > is right. Not sure I believe this story though since I have two > other vehicles with EFI > that have never had this problem with the same gas. I frequent USA > or Rotten Robbie > stations that easily beat the other stations by at least .10/gal > (usually even by more). > b) How hard is it for a shade tree mechanic to perform the same > injector service. So > far my extended warranty has covered this but I’m just wondering > what I’m going > to do when that runs out. > I’ve had a number of Japanese vehicles and so far the Suburban’s quality > hasn’t compared well. > This vehicle (w/ 57k miles) has had the following done under warranty: > Air Conditioning condesor/dryer replacement > Rebuild of P/S pump (leaky seals) > Replace water pump (leaks) > Remove and re-seal intake manifold (due to leaking coolant) > 2 incidents of clogged/dirty injectors resulting in ECM codes > Failed Battery with associated acid leaks requiring battery cable > replacements (not covered by warranty) > Broken rear door latch > Geez, my ‘87 Toyota pickup has 230k miles and I’ve changed the oil and > spark plugs. Oh yeah, had > to replace the brakes once. That’s it! Too bad I love the Suburban so > much > Anybody else having similar issues with their Suburbans? > Pete
Response:
Hey Dean, As for the water remover, the climate here in California is very mild so I doubt water is the problem. We consider it a big deal if we get rain here so weather and humidity is kind of a non issue (I think). I see you are a fan of Chevron (I think Techroline is ’special sauce’ they advertise). I think the dealer manager mentioned that one as well but he had his heart set on Union 76 as the best choice. Sounds like you feel this might help keep things clean. Seems to me that items 1 and 3 contradict a bit….if gas is gas why go with Techroline? I did just get the vehicle back and it looks like this time it was the injector in Cyl 7 that was stuck this time. They cleaned it and sent me on my way. Last time (at about 30k miles) it was Cyl 5 so at least its not the same cylinder. Looks like this vehicle is going to have an injector problem every 30k miles unless I do something with the gas or an additive. Sigh…. On item 4 (the battery), this was an OEM original battery and I never did anything with the cables. If they were overtightened, they were done so at the factory and it took 4 years for the crack to happen. I should check the new one they put in I guess since it too is a Delco battery. I’m with you on number 5. These trucks can definately haul. However, that’s what they were designed to do. I just think we (U.S.) could do a better job in terms of reliability. If the Japanese start making full size trucks (some argue they already are with the Tundra/T100 lines), the U.S. manufacturers are going to really start getting whacked in apples to apples reliability comparisons. My Suburban already has seen the back end of a tow truck at ~40k miles (due to the battery failure) which isn’t good. Don’t even get me started about my ‘89 E-350 Ford RV oil leaks though Thanks for the feedback. Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Pete, > 1) Run Chevron Techron (NO substitutes) with every oil change (3k miles). > 2) STP Water remover (contains no alcohol) with every other tank if you > live in a cold damp climate; otherwise every month or two. > 3) Gas is gas. Buy it from a place that turns it over quickly, you are > less likely to end up with a lot of water in it. > 4) The battery problem is due to a positive cable bolt that is 1/8" too > long. Tightening it too much cracks the battery case, the electrolyte > eats the cables. Grind 3/16" off it. > 5) OK, so Chevy has lots of reliability problems. But I’ve hauled 5,200 > lb of patio stone in mine. Could you have done that with your toy truck? > Dean > Hi There, > I now have my 350 CID Vortec Suburban (1500 4×4, SLT) in the shop > (again) as I got a > ‘Service Engine Soon’ light on the dash coupled with rough idle when > cold. Usually once the > engine warms up, the rough running clears up. > I’ve had this happen before and the dealer that did the work says the > ECM called out a > dirty injector. They cleaned things and all was good for awhile. > Seems like this is getting to be a recurring problem. I’ve talked to > Customers in the GMC > waiting room that indicate they have had the same problems with their > late model Suburbans. > I guess I have two questions: > a) Would occasional use of an injector cleaner/fuel additive help with > this? The dealer > this morning said I should only use high end gas (Union > 76/Shell). Sheesh, given > the mileage of this beast, going to yuppie gas stations seems > extreme but maybe he > is right. Not sure I believe this story though since I have two > other vehicles with EFI > that have never had this problem with the same gas. I frequent USA > or Rotten Robbie > stations that easily beat the other stations by at least .10/gal > (usually even by more). > b) How hard is it for a shade tree mechanic to perform the same > injector service. So > far my extended warranty has covered this but I’m just wondering > what I’m going > to do when that runs out. > I’ve had a number of Japanese vehicles and so far the Suburban’s quality > hasn’t compared well. > This vehicle (w/ 57k miles) has had the following done under warranty: > Air Conditioning condesor/dryer replacement > Rebuild of P/S pump (leaky seals) > Replace water pump (leaks) > Remove and re-seal intake manifold (due to leaking coolant) > 2 incidents of clogged/dirty injectors resulting in ECM codes > Failed Battery with associated acid leaks requiring battery cable > replacements (not covered by warranty) > Broken rear door latch > Geez, my ‘87 Toyota pickup has 230k miles and I’ve changed the oil and > spark plugs. Oh yeah, had > to replace the brakes once. That’s it! Too bad I love the Suburban so > much > Anybody else having similar issues with their Suburbans? > Pete
Response:
Hi There, I now have my 350 CID Vortec Suburban (1500 4×4, SLT) in the shop (again) as I got a ‘Service Engine Soon’ light on the dash coupled with rough idle when cold. Usually once the engine warms up, the rough running clears up. I’ve had this happen before and the dealer that did the work says the ECM called out a dirty injector. They cleaned things and all was good for awhile. Seems like this is getting to be a recurring problem. I’ve talked to Customers in the GMC waiting room that indicate they have had the same problems with their late model Suburbans. I guess I have two questions: a) Would occasional use of an injector cleaner/fuel additive help with this? The dealer this morning said I should only use high end gas (Union 76/Shell). Sheesh, given the mileage of this beast, going to yuppie gas stations seems extreme but maybe he is right. Not sure I believe this story though since I have two other vehicles with EFI that have never had this problem with the same gas. I frequent USA or Rotten Robbie stations that easily beat the other stations by at least .10/gal (usually even by more). b) How hard is it for a shade tree mechanic to perform the same injector service. So far my extended warranty has covered this but I’m just wondering what I’m going to do when that runs out. I’ve had a number of Japanese vehicles and so far the Suburban’s quality hasn’t compared well. This vehicle (w/ 57k miles) has had the following done under warranty: Air Conditioning condesor/dryer replacement Rebuild of P/S pump (leaky seals) Replace water pump (leaks) Remove and re-seal intake manifold (due to leaking coolant) 2 incidents of clogged/dirty injectors resulting in ECM codes Failed Battery with associated acid leaks requiring battery cable replacements (not covered by warranty) Broken rear door latch Geez, my ‘87 Toyota pickup has 230k miles and I’ve changed the oil and spark plugs. Oh yeah, had to replace the brakes once. That’s it! Too bad I love the Suburban so much Anybody else having similar issues with their Suburbans? Pete
