Just in the interest of helping anybody who has this same problem, here’s the GM fix so far.  I took it to big GM dealer early yesterday a.m..  Sat and waited for emissions guy to get in.  He took one look at previous test results and said, "Oh, you’re running 89 octane, aren’t you? (yes, I was)  "Run it out, run a full tank of Chevron 93 through it, bring it back to me when its almost empty. I will test it while you wait and I guarantee it will pass." He never even looked at the truck or tested it.  He told me, "I don’t have to look at it.  There’s nothing wrong with your truck."  He explained that — since ‘99 and later 2.2 do NOT have an EGR system — many are doomed to fail new, stricter CA NOx standards at slow speed IF you take the test on regular (89 octane) gas. Well, so at least the EGR controversy is settled.  It’ll take a while to run a full tank of 93 octane through it.  Then I’ll take the test again.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Just in the interest of helping anybody who has this same problem, >here’s the GM fix so far.  I took it to big GM dealer early yesterday >a.m..  Sat and waited for emissions guy to get in.  He took one look at >previous test results and said, "Oh, you’re running 89 octane, aren’t >you? (yes, I was)  "Run it out, run a full tank of Chevron 93 through >it, bring it back to me when its almost empty. I will test it while you >wait and I guarantee it will pass." >He never even looked at the truck or tested it.  He told me, "I don’t >have to look at it.  There’s nothing wrong with your truck."  He >explained that — since ‘99 and later 2.2 do NOT have an EGR system — >many are doomed to fail new, stricter CA NOx standards at slow speed IF >you take the test on regular (89 octane) gas. >Well, so at least the EGR controversy is settled.  It’ll take a while >to run a full tank of 93 octane through it.  Then I’ll take the test >again.

Most interesting. Please post back with the results when retested. "When a legislature undertakes to proscribe the exercise of a citizen’s constitutional rights it acts lawlessly and the citizen can take matters into his own hands and proceed on the basis that such a law is no law at all." – Justice William O. Douglas

Response:

My 99 Sonoma – 2.2L, 5-speed – just tanked on CA smog test.  Failed  the NOx measurement at 25 mph.  Max is 527, I measured 876.  Passed NOx at idle.  HC measure 0.0  (pass), CO measured 0.01 (pass).  Anybody got an idea of what I am looking at with this high NO  measurement?  Truck feels like its running fine.  No "Check Engine"  light ever.  New AC platinum plugs a few months ago.  This vehicle doesn’t even HAVE an EGR valve, which would be my first  suspect. Any advice appreciated.  Thanks….

Response:

when the NO is high it’s because the engine is running to lean and hot  and is breaking down the oxygen molicule which combines with nitrogin to make N2O. I’d have the garage do a diagnostic on the engine management system to see if any of the censors are out of range.they could be out, but not enough to trip the computer warning light.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 99 Sonoma – 2.2L, 5-speed – just tanked on CA smog test.  Failed >  the NOx measurement at 25 mph.  Max is 527, I measured 876.  Passed > NOx at idle.  HC measure 0.0 >  (pass), CO measured 0.01 (pass). >  Anybody got an idea of what I am looking at with this high NO >  measurement?  Truck feels like its running fine.  No "Check Engine" >  light ever.  New AC platinum plugs a few months ago. >  This vehicle doesn’t even HAVE an EGR valve, which would be my first >  suspect. > Any advice appreciated.  Thanks….

Response:

thank you

Response:

Yea it’s pretty weird when it only does it like once a month and it happens only in the early morning, since i live in vegas that’s about the only time it’s cold. I just ordered the part, if it doesn’t happen again it’ll be worth it, it’s only about $20

Response:

Could you have an alarm that you don’t know about. Motion sensor alarm ? The morning paper boy could be playing tricks. Just a thought – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working >properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of >my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this >once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the >morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING >about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few >custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do >with it

Response:

Could be the door light switch. If it is sticking, it can fool the computer into thinking that there is a breech in the security system. Something basic to check out. My 2000 Cavalier was doing the exact same thing. Haven"t figured out how to post to the newsgroup yet, sorry about the email. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working >properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of >my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this >once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the >morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING >about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few >custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do >with it

Response:

I don’t have a remote start, but i’m getting one this saturday.

Response:

No i’m pretty sure I don’t have an alarm, there’s no paperboy anyway. I have NO clue why it’s doing this.

Response:

I don’t have a security system on my truck yet, get one friday. But i’ll check if the switch because my inside lights don’t even turn on when i open my doors.

Response:

I would suspect that you have the GM Passlock II system. Do you have a key fob to lock and unlock your doors? If not,  than I doubt it could be the door switch.  I’m not sure that year had the keyless entry or not. But, if you are already having problems with it than  check it out anyway.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I don’t have a security system on my truck yet, get one friday. But i’ll > check if the switch because my inside lights don’t even turn on when i > open my doors.

Response:

Another thought, might as well unplug the horn. Until you get it fixed. I know the neighbours would appreciate it also. LOL. Mike .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I don’t have a security system on my truck yet, get one friday. But i’ll > check if the switch because my inside lights don’t even turn on when i > open my doors.

Response:

Might be a warped steering wheel horn pad causing contact with the horn contact inside the steering column – thus blowing the horn. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~298,704 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

I do have the remote entry but it doesn’t work for whatever reason, my car was broken into recently and hasn’t been the same since. When the horn goes off it’s a steady sound there’s no chirps or anything only constant horn, and why does it only go off in cold weather? I pulled the horn relay and of course it stopped I just hope I can still drive it without that in there.

Response:

when my truck was broken into they ripped up the colom and the horn panel and the steering panels had to all be replaced, plus previous to being broken into I had the same problem, same time in the morning, but i just hit the horn and it stopped this time when i hit it it didn’t stop so i had to pull the horn relay. I’m still not certain what the problem is? all idea are appreciated and being looked into

Response:

haha yea i did it. I’m just not sure how long the horn is going before I get out there and tunr it off. It was too early and too cold to sit out there and mess with it so ijust pulled the relay think that’ll cause any damage?

Response:

No, you should be ok

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> haha yea i did it. I’m just not sure how long the horn is going before I > get out there and tunr it off. It was too early and too cold to sit out > there and mess with it so ijust pulled the relay think that’ll cause any > damage?

Response:

Unplugging the horn relay will not effect anything except the horn. Everything you know as normal should be just that without the horn. There is a way to program te fob,  and I have it here some place, when I find it I’ll send it via email. I’ve also read it on here someplace also. Mike

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It was warped, well the column wasn’t warped, but the metal plate behind > the Horn column was warped to one side and was very close together and > when the weather got cold enough it would cause the plastic to condense > causing the wire to touch the metal plate thus making the horn go off. > awesome guys! thanks for the input really helped out. now only if someone > knows why my remote entry pad doesn’t work or if anyone knows how to > program them

Response:

You most likely on the right track.  I once owned a Caddy with a "rim blow" steering wheel.  One could blow the horn by squeezing the wheel   When it got cold the cover would contract blowing the horn.  Try removing the cover and placing a thin piece of foam under it, then replace, WBMA mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Might be a warped steering wheel horn pad causing contact with the horn > contact inside the steering column – thus blowing the horn. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey > _~_~_~298,704 miles_~_~_ > ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ > 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible > 78 Holiday 88 coupe > 68 LeSabre convertible > 73 Impala sedan

Response:

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic8206.htm Try this link for the fob programming. Might even help you out with the horn issue

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You most likely on the right track.  I once owned a Caddy with a > "rim blow" steering wheel.  One could blow the horn by squeezing > the wheel   When it got cold the cover would contract blowing the > horn.  Try removing the cover and placing a thin piece of foam > under it, then replace, WBMA > mike hunt > Might be a warped steering wheel horn pad causing contact with the horn > contact inside the steering column – thus blowing the horn. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE >  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey > _~_~_~298,704 miles_~_~_ > ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ > 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible > 78 Holiday 88 coupe > 68 LeSabre convertible > 73 Impala sedan

Response:

I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do with it

Response:

Maybe your remote car starter is set to start the truck when it gets below a certain temperature and it was hooked up wrong so rather than starting the truck it blows the horn. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I recently bought a used 2000 gmc sierra, everything is running and working > properly…well almost everything. This morning I woke up to the sound of > my horn blaring, it was going off for no apparent reason. It has does this > once before and I have no idea why. It always happens very early in the > morning and when it is pretty cold outside, if anybody knows ANYTHING > about why it’s doing this please fill me in asap. also the car has a few > custom things done to it i’m just wondering if that has anything to do > with it

Response:

I have just leased a 2005 GMC Canyon Crew Cab. My problem relates to the Accessory Power Outlets (cigarette lighter slots) located under the heater.  There are two and they both have a protective cap. I have a Nokia Cell Phone and use the in car charger.  The problem is that the charger does not work in the new Canyon. I have tested the charger in three other vehicles and it works fine.  I have taken the truck to the dealer and they said that there is power going to both outlets.  When I insert the charger, it does not seem to seat correctly.  When I push it in as far as it can go, the charger still moves around a lot more than it does in other vehicles.  Has anyone else seen or heard of this problem?  Any ideas on what to do about it?  Thanks. Darren

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have just leased a 2005 GMC Canyon Crew Cab. > My problem relates to the Accessory Power Outlets (cigarette lighter slots) > located under the heater.  There are two and they both have a protective > cap. > I have a Nokia Cell Phone and use the in car charger.  The problem is that > the charger does not work in the new Canyon. > I have tested the charger in three other vehicles and it works fine.  I have > taken the truck to the dealer and they said that there is power going to > both outlets.  When I insert the charger, it does not seem to seat > correctly.  When I push it in as far as it can go, the charger still moves > around a lot more than it does in other vehicles.  Has anyone else seen or > heard of this problem?  Any ideas on what to do about it?  Thanks. > Darren

Keep pushing? Sometimes cell chargers have a small contact area for the ground, and so do the accessory power outlets in some cars, like my cell charger plug has to be aligned just right to work in my 300zx

Response:

Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it. — Doug and Rox Ann Adams M268 Rd.5A McClure, Ohio 43534 —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

It may fall on deaf ears. The vehicle is out of warranty and GM no longer produces 1997 Blazers. It would more or less give the lady on the other end of the phone something to talk to her co-workers about at break time. However, I do feel your pain. A friend of mine used to own one, for all of 6 months, got rid of it ASAP as soon as the repair bills started to pile up. Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a > ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it > is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

Response:

Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and get something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I did…and should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for dumping the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known better).

Response:

My 97 Blazer, 4.3 Vortec.. 118,000 on it now. 2 door, cloth interior, a/c/, auto, 2wd, am/fm/cassette. Manual windows, cruise. Gauges but no tach. 40,000 – Alternator 50,000 – Water pump 80,000 – Transmission (set slip code). The did this under warranty. "New" gm reman, at dealer 80,000 – A/C compresor 80,000 – Wiper control module 102,000 – just out of warranty – fuel pump, 800, ouch! 104,000 – 2nd alternator The first set of brakes lasted 25,000, 2nd set about 50k, on the 3rd set now. OEM tires (Wranglers as I recall) wen to 65k, have Michelins on there now. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a >’97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it >is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

Response:

My 1998 GMC Jimmy I don’t know the mileage when the repairs were done but I have. It now has 106,000 miles Ignition switch Both front wheel bearings Two Alternators Drivers side power window motor Water pump Wiper motor

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 Blazer, 4.3 Vortec.. 118,000 on it now. 2 door, cloth interior, > a/c/, auto, 2wd, am/fm/cassette. Manual windows, cruise. Gauges but no > tach. > 40,000 – Alternator > 50,000 – Water pump > 80,000 – Transmission (set slip code). The did this under warranty. > "New" gm reman, at dealer > 80,000 – A/C compresor > 80,000 – Wiper control module > 102,000 – just out of warranty – fuel pump, 800, ouch! > 104,000 – 2nd alternator > The first set of brakes lasted 25,000, 2nd set about 50k, on the 3rd > set now. OEM tires (Wranglers as I recall) wen to 65k, have Michelins > on there now. >Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a >’97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it >is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

Response:

Sounds like GM’s Customer Service is just like a bull "services" a cow. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a > ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it > is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it. > — > Doug and Rox Ann Adams > M268 Rd.5A > McClure, Ohio 43534 > —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet > News==—- > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ > Newsgroups > —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption > =—-

Response:

> Sounds like GM’s Customer Service is just like a bull "services" a cow.

One way to look at it.  Except the cow may actually enjoy the experience!

Response:

Trust me, GM isn’t the only one with crappy Customer Service. Mercury/Ford is the same way. Some dude in India who reads scripts, and refuses to give you corporate contact information… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is > that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer > Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and get > something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I did…and > should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for dumping > the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they > didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known > better).

Response:

That may very well be true.  But the subject is not Ford’s customer service, it’s GM’s customer service.  So, I’m not sure what the point was.  If it’s to say that they all are bad…that is a poor excuse for GM to do it just because it’s competitors do (if that was the point).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Trust me, GM isn’t the only one with crappy Customer Service. Mercury/Ford > is the same way. Some dude in India who reads scripts, and refuses to give > you corporate contact information… > Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is > that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer > Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and > get something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I > did…and should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for > dumping the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they > didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known > better).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > That may very well be true.  But the subject is not Ford’s customer service, > it’s GM’s customer service.  So, I’m not sure what the point was.  If it’s > to say that they all are bad…that is a poor excuse for GM to do it just > because it’s competitors do (if that was the point). > Trust me, GM isn’t the only one with crappy Customer Service. Mercury/Ford > is the same way. Some dude in India who reads scripts, and refuses to give > you corporate contact information… >> Yes they have a customer service department.  My experience with them is >> that they’re useless, arrogant and hardly worthy of their name "Customer >> Service".  Personally I wouldn’t waste the time.  Dump the vehicle and >> get something else and save yourself the headaches.  That’s what I >> did…and should have done it sooner…would have gotten an extra $2K for >> dumping the vehicle earlier (but I thought GM would work with me…they >> didn’t…the delay cost me a total of $6K instead of $4K had I known >> better).

I worked for both Ford and GM and it’s pretty similar. We always called it "liar’s school." They take young kids out of school who usually don’t know much about vehicles. They put them in a pool with others to teach them how to blow customers off. When they graduate from there they head for a sales dept. assignment. Sounds like they transferred the work overseas.

Response:

underwear and scratched on the wall: > Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a GM complaint dept. I own a > ‘97 Blazer and  I think they really need to know what a piece of  S**t it > is. With only 75,000 miles there is way too many things wrong with it.

I feel for ya. I had a ‘95 Jimmy which drove great and I loved the 4.3L engine but what a pain – almost 150K miles in seven years and I had – three EFI units, power steering pump, water pump, EGR unit twice, rebuilt headers, power window motor (driver), 4×4 actuator… …and to top it off, I had bought the truck with the (now infamous) Bridgestone ATX tires. Took it in to have the brakes done one day, and the guy called me talling me there’s deep cracks around the inner tread of all four tires. Fortunately, thanks to the Ford issue, I got them reimbursed a few months later. — kai www.perfectreign.com a palm tree nodded at me last night, he said, you look so pale…

Response:

this is my first GMC (2004 Sierra p/u 4800 vortec) and I thought it abnormal when it couldn’t warm up at idle.  The dealer replaced the thermostat but it still doesn’t warm up at idle.  I’ve driven 5 miles to work and left it idling for over twenty minutes and the gauge reads 175.  When driving it will warm up to almost 210 but it takes a lot longer than my other car.  If it’s cold enough outside, say below zero, it will actually start to cool down if I leave it idling.  I’ve let it idle for 20 minutes in the morning before so I could have a warm car and didn’t.  Is this normal?  Did I get another bad thermostat?

Response:

>If it’s cold enough outside, say below > zero, it will actually start to cool down if > I leave it idling. I’ve let it idle for 20 > minutes in the morning before so I could > have a warm car and didn’t. Is this > normal? Did I get another bad > thermostat?

I’m reading your post to mean you aren’t getting any heat from your heater….right? Or is the question about what your gauge is reading? Spitballing:  radiator cap, wrong/faulty stat, valve in the heater-hose line faulty, faulty gauge/sending unit…. Factory guages are nortorious for being less than accurate. The rad cap is the means the system uses to pressurize.  Without pressure the cooling system will not function properly.  Caps are inexpensive.  Possibly the stat is the wrong range.  A 195

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i

It seems the Greater Sound Reduction (GSR) would occur at the boundary between air and solid (plywood or lead), rather than within a substance (my wag). GSR may be better if the lead squares are mounted on standoffs. A quick google did not answer whether my wag is true or false.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i > It seems the Greater Sound Reduction (GSR) would occur at the > boundary between air and solid (plywood or lead), rather than > within a substance (my wag). GSR may be better if the lead squares > are mounted on standoffs. A quick google did not answer whether my > wag is true or false.

In sound studio construction, the dead air in double wall construction is considered key. However, lead is in a special category, because it is extraordinarily efficient at absorbing vibration. I speculate that if the lead is mounted on standoffs, fatigue cracking will appear near the points of attachment. I have not seen freestanding lead used. In movie cameras, lead is applied directly to the inside of the film magazine, right up against the aluminum casting.

Response:

[ plenty snipped ] > > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which >However, lead is in a special category, because it is extraordinarily >efficient at absorbing vibration. >I have not seen freestanding lead used. >In movie cameras, lead is applied directly to the inside of the film >magazine, right up against the aluminum casting.

In the good Old Days before environmental concerns took hold, thick lead foil was commonly used as a sound baffle around pipes and other tricky and space constricted items. A favorite in NYC was wrapping it around incinerator chutes. — Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i

I believe this is a diesel generator and as such there are 2 things that need to be addressed before you start and that is the intake and exhaust.   Did you know that most of the noise from a diesel somes from the intake and exhaust?  As a matter of fact some diesel pickup trucks have a muffler on the air intake?  At the Cummins school years ago they had a cummins diesel engine running at full power but the exhaust and intake were routed to outside the building.  It was so quiet that one could carry on a normal conversation standing 2 feet away from the engine.  Outside the building the noise level was quite impressive.  Once you have the exhaust and intake directed to the outside, then you can attack if necessary the remaining noise levels of the motor.  Don’t forget that the exhaust gases will get quite hot under load. Good Luck BTW Cummins and Onan are parts of the same company.  Onan makes a great engine as does Cummins. r

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i

  I had a insulation installation company bring in for repair a trailer mounted insulation blower once. It was inside a 10×10x30 foot long trailer,   and the engine, a B+S vanguard v-twin was about 6 feet inside the trailer rear door. The engine installer did a good job unstalling a duct in the floor to the cooling air inlet at the flywheel screen, and all was well until one day one of the workers knocked off the duct while moving supplies or something, we never found out. This missing duct allowed the engine cooling air to "recycle", i.e. the hot cooling air exhaust went back in to the cooling air intake. This was with a 10′x10′ door open only six feet away, mind you. After almost a full day with inadequate cooling the engine oil looked like tar and was about as thick. Total engine destruction due to inadequate cooling was the result.          I hope you have provided a way for the engine to cool itself, the box you are describing sounds a lot like that trailer. Air cooled engines make about the same watts in heat as the generator makes electrical power, i.e. 5 kw generator makes 5 kw heated air            Scott

Response:

[snip] > that I plan on addressing with some baffling. > I am also thinking of spraying or gluing some vibration absorber to > the sheet metal pieces on the engine. Would it make sense to you? > i

I have a feeling that the intense vibration would cause the stuff to degrade at an accelerated rate. Perhaps it would be manageable.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am soundproofing this generator: > http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ > This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. > I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per > square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which > works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" > plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can > accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 > sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges > better. > If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if > I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset > at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel > noise. > If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly > thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early > tomorrow. > Thanks, as always, > i

Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise.  Local supplier of soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl).  Lead side would face out (free of skin of machine.) This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db reduction at freq.  At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., deliver, and collect. John

Response:

You don’t want to staple it.  The staples will transfer the vibrations and therefore noise to the plywood.  The best answer is some sort of glue like liquid nails. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise.  Local supplier of > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl).  Lead side would > face out (free of skin of machine.) > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db > reduction at freq.  At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., > deliver, and collect. > Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm > thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". > i

Response:

3M spray on adhesive is great for that. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You don’t want to staple it.  The staples will transfer the vibrations and > therefore noise to the plywood.  The best answer is some sort of glue like > liquid nails. > . > > Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial > > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise.  Local supplier of > > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of > > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl).  Lead side would > > face out (free of skin of machine.) > > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db > > reduction at freq.  At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., > > deliver, and collect. > Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm > thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". > i

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise.  Local supplier of > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl).  Lead side would > face out (free of skin of machine.) > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db > reduction at freq.  At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., > deliver, and collect. > Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm > thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". > i

A soft inside is important.  You need to actually absorb the sound energy and turn it into heat.  A hard enclosure will just bounce the sound around more until it comes out anyways.  Some DIY audio shops sell a mat made to line the insides of speakers.  It works very well on top of dense wood to absorb sound energy.

Response:

I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. Shaking head in amazement.

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > The lead will be inside the plywood compartment, not exposed to > elements.

Riiiiight.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where >> runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. >> My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of >> less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going >> out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope >> you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. >> Shaking head in amazement. > The lead will be inside the plywood compartment, not exposed to > elements. > Riiiiight.

Lead is still used AFAIK as a roofing material.  Very much in evidence on historic buildings.  Also concider the number of houses STILL served by lead waterpipes.  Does it degrade at all?  Is this not one of the big problems with the stuff?

Response:

3M is the leader in adhesives. <http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/manufacturing_industry/engin… MWH6QPge/gvel_VJ9R6TT0WDgl/theme_us_adhesivetape_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler /output_html> or Marine products http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/manufacturing_industry/engin… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You don’t want to staple it.  The staples will transfer the vibrations and > therefore noise to the plywood.  The best answer is some sort of glue like > liquid nails. > Thanks. I would like to know what is the source of your knowledge. > Specifically, how do you know that liquid nails would in fact hold > lead and would not separate. > i > . >> > Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial >> > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise.  Local supplier of >> > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of >> > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl).  Lead side would >> > face out (free of skin of machine.) >> > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db >> > reduction at freq.  At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., >> > deliver, and collect. >> Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm >> thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". >> i > —

Response:

The glue type was a shot in the dark.  The no holes came from an acoustical engineer on a bus conversion my father and grandfather did and the lead was on the floor so holding it in position was easy.  The engineer did say if you must have nails, glue a small piece of lead over the heads.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You don’t want to staple it.  The staples will transfer the vibrations and > therefore noise to the plywood.  The best answer is some sort of glue like > liquid nails. > Thanks. I would like to know what is the source of your knowledge. > Specifically, how do you know that liquid nails would in fact hold > lead and would not separate. > i > .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> > Some years back, our company had to soundproof some industrial >> > machinery that emitted wide spectrum of noise.  Local supplier of >> > soundproofing material provided sheets of material with layers of >> > ~.060" lead, ~.100" foam, ~.030" plastic (like vinyl).  Lead side would >> > face out (free of skin of machine.) >> > This was surprisingly effective, but don’t ask for specific db >> > reduction at freq.  At least it enabled us to meet customer rqmts., >> > deliver, and collect. >> Thanks. My own insulation will be 1/2" of plywood, coupled with 1 mm >> thick lead sheet. 1mm is approximately 0.04". >> i > —

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement.

The reason they are getting rid of it in solder has to do with the inability to insure correct disposal of electronic devices, not the presence of lead in operating ones. I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount of it.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > The reason they are getting rid of it in solder has to do with the > inability > to insure correct disposal of electronic devices, not the presence of > lead > in operating ones. > I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount > of it.

And yet seeping water in landfills is exactly why the EU is making it illegal. Go figure.

Response:

> I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount of it.

Me

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of > less than an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going > out and exposing several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > The reason they are getting rid of it in solder has to do with the > inability to insure correct disposal of electronic devices, not the > presence of lead in operating ones. > I’m skeptical that dripping water could carry off a dangerous amount > of it.

Could give these guys a try instead of lead: http://www.dynamat.com/ -Bruce

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of less than an > ounce of lead in our products, and you are going out and exposing several > pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement.

Lead occurs in nature. What was God thinking???

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I am soundproofing this generator: >> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ >> This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. >> I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per >> square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which >> works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" >> plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can >> accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on 5 >> sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges >> better. >> If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, if >> I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded genset >> at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 decibel >> noise. >> If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be greatly >> thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo there early >> tomorrow. >> Thanks, as always, >> i > I believe this is a diesel generator and as such there are 2 things > that need to be addressed before you start and that is the intake and > exhaust.  Did you know that most of the noise from a diesel somes from > the intake and exhaust? > The exhaust issue has been addressed. I have a tractor muffler that is > surprisingly quiet. I ran my genset in the garage and routed exhaust > outside. It was almost completely quiet. > The intake of air is a good question, but, given relatively low HP and > volume (70 ci, 1800 RPM), it is not much.

Whatever goes out must come in, so I would route the air intake from the outside as well.  That should reduce noise a significant amount. > What is much more serious is the fact that this engine is > aircooled. It sucks cold air in from the side that says ONAN in big > letters, and exhausts warm air  from the back. I route that air > outside with the help of some HVAC stuff.

Not only is the engine air cooled, so is the alternator.  The fan noise would be rather loud.  If it were me, I would build a "dog house" for it outside.  When I needed it I would take the doors off and fire it up. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As a matter of fact some diesel pickup trucks have a muffler on > the air intake?  At the Cummins school years ago they had a cummins > diesel engine running at full power but the exhaust and intake were > routed to outside the building.  It was so quiet that one could carry > on a normal conversation standing 2 feet away from the engine.  Outside > the building the noise level was quite impressive.  Once you have the > exhaust and intake directed to the outside, then you can attack if > necessary the remaining noise levels of the motor.  Don’t forget that > the exhaust gases will get quite hot under load. > Thanks. Exhaust has been taken care of. Cooling is an open question > that I plan on addressing with some baffling. > I am also thinking of spraying or gluing some vibration absorber to > the sheet metal pieces on the engine. Would it make sense to you? > i

What seems obvious sometimes isn’t the solution.  It will take some careful analysis to properly quite down the critter.  There is a reason why all the data centers I have seen have their generators outside and isolated from the main buiilding.  I assume you are determined to keep it indoors. When you get it to the point where the fan noise is most of what you hear, you are getting close.  A cheap RS SPL meter might help locate the noise sources.  When you get it to the point where the fan noise is the primary culprit, you will likely have to build a sound isolation booth for it with proper air intake and exhaust for cooling the alternator and engine.  Don’t forget to calculate back pressure on the exhaust system. One elbow is the equivalent of adding something like 10 to 20 feet of pipe.  Too little backpressure is as bad as not enough. Applying sound absorbant material to the engine covers might be helpful in reducing valve train noise but that could be detrimental to the proper cooling of an engine.  When we would dyno test 871 GMC diesels it would be before the engine was painted.  After painting the engine, we would test it once more and the coolant temp would go up about 15 degrees when under full load. I keep imagining an old printer sound booth only on a bigger scale for your application. You might try wrapping the exhaust pipe with some asbestos like wrap to keep the noise down as well.  Tap it with a screwdriver and see if it rings.  Sound travels through steel much faster than through air. Did you call you local Onan dealer to see if Onan makes a low noise kit for that genpack?  You could call the factory and see what they have to say about it.  They like talking to customers.  My son talked to the founders son or grandson and he is a nice guy. He was also the current head honcho at the time. r

Response:

> I’m surprised they still sell it, much less for exterior use where > runoff goes into the ground and polutes the groundwater. > My employer is spending millions of dollars to get rid of less than > an ounce of lead in our products, and you are going out and exposing > several pounds of it to the elements? Hope > you don’t have any small children or animals in the vicinity. > Shaking head in amazement. > Lead occurs in nature. What was God thinking???

And Arsenic and Ebola and the radioactive isotopes all occur in nature as well. But God didn’t refine them or displace them to the point of being dangerous. We did that to ourselves.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>> I am soundproofing this generator: >>>> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/ >>>> This is a followup to my question on soundproofing it. >>>> I found some lead sheet at our local roofing supplier. 2.5 lbs per >>>> square foot (approximately 1 mm thick), $28 per 3×3′ square, which >>>> works out to $3.11 per square foot. I hope that combined with a 1/2" >>>> plywood shell, (which already gives me 5dB reduction), I can >>>> accomplish 5-10 more decibel sound reduction if I use lead sheet on >>>> 5 sides of the enclosure (4 sides and the top), and seal the edges >>>> better. >>>> If I get 10 decibels total sound reduction, it will be acceptable, >>>> if I get 15, I will be in heavens. The noise from the unshielded >>>> genset at 10 feet is 85 dB. So, 15 dB reduction would give me 70 >>>> decibel noise. >>>> If anyone has a good idea why this is a stupid plan, I will be >>>> greatly thankful if you can post your thoughts tonight, before Igo >>>> there early tomorrow. >>>> Thanks, as always, >>>> i >>> I believe this is a diesel generator and as such there are 2 things >>> that need to be addressed before you start and that is the intake and >>> exhaust.  Did you know that most of the noise from a diesel somes >>> from the intake and exhaust? >> The exhaust issue has been addressed. I have a tractor muffler that is >> surprisingly quiet. I ran my genset in the garage and routed exhaust >> outside. It was almost completely quiet. >> The intake of air is a good question, but, given relatively low HP and >> volume (70 ci, 1800 RPM), it is not much. > Whatever goes out must come in, so I would route the air intake from > the outside as well.  That should reduce noise a significant amount. > Agreed. >> What is much more serious is the fact that this engine is >> aircooled. It sucks cold air in from the side that says ONAN in big >> letters, and exhausts warm air  from the back. I route that air >> outside with the help of some HVAC stuff. > Not only is the engine air cooled, so is the alternator.  The fan noise > would be rather loud.  If it were me, I would build a "dog house" for > it outside.  When I needed it I would take the doors off and fire it > up. > Yes, it will be outside, and I did build the dog house > see >         http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/Enclosure

Great pics.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> As a matter of fact some diesel pickup trucks have a muffler on >>> the air intake?  At the Cummins school years ago they had a cummins >>> diesel engine running at full power but the exhaust and intake were >>> routed to outside the building.  It was so quiet that one could carry >>> on a normal conversation standing 2 feet away from the engine. >>> Outside the building the noise level was quite impressive.  Once you >>> have the exhaust and intake directed to the outside, then you can >>> attack if necessary the remaining noise levels of the motor.  Don’t >>> forget that the exhaust gases will get quite hot under load. >> Thanks. Exhaust has been taken care of. Cooling is an open question >> that I plan on addressing with some baffling. >> I am also thinking of spraying or gluing some vibration absorber to >> the sheet metal pieces on the engine. Would it make sense to you? >> i > What seems obvious sometimes isn’t the solution.  It will take some > careful analysis to properly quite down the critter.  There is a reason > why all the data centers I have seen have their generators outside and > isolated from the main buiilding.  I assume you are determined to keep > it indoors. > No, I am determined to keep it outdoors.

my apologies…i misunderstood. > When you get it to the point where the fan noise is most of what > you hear, you are getting close.  A cheap RS SPL meter might help > locate the noise sources. > I have a digital SPL meter.

that will work fine.  Point it at different areas and see what needs work.  Some thick foam rubber will quiet down your plywood enclosure.  Maybe some syrofoam insulboard will work.   > All I know is that Onan parts for my 26 year old genset are very > expensive. > i

Onan parts are expensive no matter what.  Thankfully they don’t break often.  There were 3rd party parts suppliers but I don’t know if they still exist.  I have an 18 Hp Onan gas engine on my lawn tractor.  Runs great and will likely outlast me.  I had to buy 2 exhaust pipes and two mufflers for it this year.  Cost me in excess of $120.00.  I almost made the pipes myself but I needed it in a hurry.   r

Response:

207.115.63.158: > Air cooled engines make about the same watts in heat as the generator makes > electrical power, i.e. 5 kw generator makes 5 kw heated air   >          Scott

Yes, that is true. We would figure the electric bill for computers and add that same dollar amount for AC to keep it cool.  It was within pennies of each other. r

Response:

> 207.115.63.158: > Air cooled engines make about the same watts in heat as the generator > makes > electrical power, i.e. 5 kw generator makes 5 kw heated air >          Scott > Yes, that is true. > We would figure the electric bill for computers and add that same > dollar > amount for AC to keep it cool.  It was within pennies of each other.

Well, ALL of the power that goes into computer equipment ultimately leaves the other end of the equation as heat.

Response:

>!

Damn!  I’m still working through the last DLR thread….. Sigh….

Response:

>>>Should be just what the doctor ordered. >I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up.

Was able to get it now, through Comcast.  Try again? — E-mail fudged to thwart spammers. Transpose the c’s and a’s in my e-mail address to reply.

Response:

Comes up for me now too.  I think the hosted site was offline for some reason. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>Should be just what the doctor ordered. >>I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up. >Was able to get it now, through Comcast.  Try again?

Response:

>! > Damn!  I’m still working through the last DLR thread….. > Sigh….

Did it ever end?  ;-)

Response:

Should be a fuse marked "DRL" that you can remove – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the >automatic running day lights?

Response:

!

Response:

> !

Possible (responding to your annotation in the subject heading).  But there isn’t much more to say about them, is there?  ;-)

Response:

Myself I like the lights on – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Not sure if it will work but on my 1998 GMC Jimmy if you set the parking > break one click the lights stay off. I cant do it my brake peddle is broke > and wont stay latched. I looked at repairing it but it seems to be a > replace > item and not worth the trouble of fixing it. > A couple of potential problems with this approach. > 1.  It causes the "Brake" warning light (on the dash) to remain illuminated. > This light serves two purposes.  One, to remind the operator that the > emergency brake is not released  AND, two, as a main brake system failure > light. > 2.  On some models, this causes the ABS system to not function (since the > BCM "thinks" that the e-brake is still engaged) > 3.  Can cause excessive rear brake pad wear or overheating of the rear > brakes > So, probably not a good idea.

Response:

Still doesn’t.  Can get part of it by searching for it in Google and choosing the "cached" option, but for all the pix it is still trying to get from the real host site. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try this URL.  I have been to it before (maybe a month ago or so?) but > I just tried it before posting and the site won’t load.  Anyway, in > case it’s just a glitch tonight, here is the URL: > http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html > Should be just what the doctor ordered. >I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up.

Response:

> Try this URL.  I have been to it before (maybe a month ago or so?) but > I just tried it before posting and the site won’t load.  Anyway, in > case it’s just a glitch tonight, here is the URL: > http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html > Should be just what the doctor ordered.

I tried too.  Wouldn’t come up.

Response:

> Not sure if it will work but on my 1998 GMC Jimmy if you set the parking > break one click the lights stay off. I cant do it my brake peddle is broke > and wont stay latched. I looked at repairing it but it seems to be a > replace > item and not worth the trouble of fixing it.

A couple of potential problems with this approach. 1.  It causes the "Brake" warning light (on the dash) to remain illuminated. This light serves two purposes.  One, to remind the operator that the emergency brake is not released  AND, two, as a main brake system failure light. 2.  On some models, this causes the ABS system to not function (since the BCM "thinks" that the e-brake is still engaged) 3.  Can cause excessive rear brake pad wear or overheating of the rear brakes So, probably not a good idea.

Response:

Try this URL.  I have been to it before (maybe a month ago or so?) but I just tried it before posting and the site won’t load.  Anyway, in case it’s just a glitch tonight, here is the URL: http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html Should be just what the doctor ordered. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the > automatic running day lights? >Probably not.  Everything I tried would cause the "Service Vehicle Soon" >light to come on and set a code in the BCM.  It appears that there is a >monitoring circuit that sets a code if it senses any malfunction of the >daytime running lights (DRLs).  GM won’t help either…they don’t care what >you want…even if it’s legal.  The DRL was one reason I ditched my GM >vehicle…couldn’t stand them (or the auto headlights either).  Hope you >have better luck.  Good luck!  If you don’t have better luck, buy a new 2005 >Mustang OR a 2006 Dodge Charger, neither of those have DRLs.

Response:

I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the automatic running day lights?

Response:

>I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the > automatic running day lights?

Probably not.  Everything I tried would cause the "Service Vehicle Soon" light to come on and set a code in the BCM.  It appears that there is a monitoring circuit that sets a code if it senses any malfunction of the daytime running lights (DRLs).  GM won’t help either…they don’t care what you want…even if it’s legal.  The DRL was one reason I ditched my GM vehicle…couldn’t stand them (or the auto headlights either).  Hope you have better luck.  Good luck!  If you don’t have better luck, buy a new 2005 Mustang OR a 2006 Dodge Charger, neither of those have DRLs.

Response:

Not sure if it will work but on my 1998 GMC Jimmy if you set the parking break one click the lights stay off. I cant do it my brake peddle is broke and wont stay latched. I looked at repairing it but it seems to be a replace item and not worth the trouble of fixing it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I own a 2002 camaro ss, does anyone know how to some how turn off the > automatic running day lights? > Probably not.  Everything I tried would cause the "Service Vehicle Soon" > light to come on and set a code in the BCM.  It appears that there is a > monitoring circuit that sets a code if it senses any malfunction of the > daytime running lights (DRLs).  GM won’t help either…they don’t care what > you want…even if it’s legal.  The DRL was one reason I ditched my GM > vehicle…couldn’t stand them (or the auto headlights either).  Hope you > have better luck.  Good luck!  If you don’t have better luck, buy a new 2005 > Mustang OR a 2006 Dodge Charger, neither of those have DRLs.

Response:

My 94 EB, woulkd spin the engine very fast, it had a new battery. Would not fire though,  turned out to be a relay. Just unplugging and replugging worked, but a new one solved the problem. Ride safe Barry <

hello, I have a 97 blazer with 196kmile (on engine). here in illinois, we have some teen temperatures lately and I notice, the car puts white smoke all the time, hot or cold. Most of the cars puts out white before they heat up but mine does all the time. 91 GMC safari with 4.3 Z engine does not smoke that much even it has 160 F thermostat. Do you have any idea whta might be the reason, or first what i should check.

Response:

White mist coming out of your tail pipe might be antifreeze. Check the level in the radiator. Have the cooling system pressure tested, you may have a blown head gasket. Harryface       1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE  3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey _~_~_~297,491 miles_~_~_           ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible 78 Holiday 88 coupe 68 LeSabre convertible 73 Impala sedan

Response:

Those blazers are known for cooling system problems, so Harryface is probably correct.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> White mist coming out of your tail pipe might be antifreeze. Check the > level in the radiator. Have the cooling system pressure tested, you may > have a blown head gasket. > Harryface > 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE > 3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey > _~_~_~297,491 miles_~_~_ > ~~~The Former Fleet ~~~ > 89 Cavalier Z 24 convertible > 78 Holiday 88 coupe > 68 LeSabre convertible > 73 Impala sedan

Response:

>hello, I have a 97 blazer with 196kmile (on engine). here in illinois, >we have some teen temperatures lately and I notice, the car puts white >smoke all the time, hot or cold. Most of the cars puts out white before >they heat up but mine does all the time. 91 GMC safari with 4.3 Z >engine does not smoke that much even it has 160 F thermostat. Do you >have any idea whta might be the reason, or first what i should check.

If your coolant level is high enough and you haven’t added any it could just be that it’s too cold outside.  In some parts of Canada in the winter virtually every car is puffing white smoke. See if it smokes when it’s warm outside.  If not, might just be typical cold weather "smoke."

Response:

> Those blazers are known for cooling system problems, so Harryface is > probably correct.

But they aren’t particularly known for head gasket problems. It’s cold, probably just water vapor.  A lot of cars will put out what appears to be white smoke (water vapor) even once they are warmed up. Ian

Response:

It got 50s and the white smoke dissappeared. what botters me is, It smokes white even when the engine is hot. independent of how long i drive, it just smokes white when it is cold. My other cars smoke white for a short time – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Those blazers are known for cooling system problems, so Harryface is > probably correct. > But they aren’t particularly known for head gasket problems. > It’s cold, probably just water vapor.  A lot of cars will put out > what appears to be white smoke (water vapor) even once they > are warmed up. > Ian

Response:

> It got 50s and the white smoke dissappeared. what botters me is, It > smokes white even when the engine is hot. independent of how long i > drive, it just smokes white when it is cold. My other cars smoke white > for a short time

Different cars do different things.  I would not worry about it.  Have you taken a whiff of the exhaust itself?  If it was burning antifreeze, you should be able to smell it.  And if it was burning antifreeze, it would smoke hot or cold, no matter what the temp was. Ian

Response:

No funny smell. everything looks ok. thanks for the input – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It got 50s and the white smoke dissappeared. what botters me is, It > smokes white even when the engine is hot. independent of how long i > drive, it just smokes white when it is cold. My other cars smoke white > for a short time > Different cars do different things.  I would not worry about it. Have > you taken a whiff of the exhaust itself?  If it was burning antifreeze, > you should be able to smell it.  And if it was burning antifreeze, it > would smoke hot or cold, no matter what the temp was. > Ian

Response:

Is your vehicle is equipped with traction control? mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 97 Astro that original came with 215-75R15. >I have experience using a set of 225-75R15 tires on it with some problems: > Thanks to everyone who responded to my question.  It would seem like going from > 205-75R15 to 215-75R15 shouln’t be a problem, as the diameter would only be > about a half inch difference.  I will consider this the maximum size then. > Have a nice Holiday. > Dale > TeleDale Key Service, > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

>I have a 97 Astro that original came with 215-75R15. >I have experience using a set of 225-75R15 tires on it with some problems:

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question.  It would seem like going from 205-75R15 to 215-75R15 shouln’t be a problem, as the diameter would only be about a half inch difference.  I will consider this the maximum size then.   Have a nice Holiday. Dale TeleDale Key Service,   http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

I have a 97 Astro that original came with 215-75R15. I have experience using a set of 225-75R15 tires on it with some problems: 1. With full passenger seating (8 people in car) and some luggage in the truck, the rear tires rub the wheel wells when it rides over relatively minor road bumps. 2. front tires rub on maximum turns if there is any looseness or folding   of the wheel well plastic covers. For these reasons, I would be going back to original size tires when I have to change tires again. David – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter).   > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first.   > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale > TeleDale Key Service,   > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

I hear you on the tire size. Best thing to do is go to the site www.astrosafari.com and do a search cuz I know they have asked the question. Otherwise, they can answer it for you. I have 225/70R15 which is same size as your stock size. Another option is to search www.overlandvans.com and decide if you want to do a little bit of lift to accomodate bigger tires. Not sure if they mention maximum tires sizes on that size. Regardless, a change in tire size will affect your speedo. One size won’t change it much but a few sizes bigger you may want to change your final drive and/or speedo gear. richard – 95 astro AWD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first. > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale > TeleDale Key Service, > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

I used to have an a 93 AWD Safari van and ran P225/70R15 Michelin X-One tires in the summer. They were great tires, much better than the stock Uniroyals one of which blew up on me. Those Michelins were on the van until just before I sold it. Tim or Linda – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> try www.tirerack.com >I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC >Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list > any >such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such >information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know >whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the > P235, and >so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. > When >I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches > (or >going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). >Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 >inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches > diameter).  I >hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they > can >check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a >message here first. >I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I > can >use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. >Thanks,  Dale >TeleDale Key Service, >http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale >1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

try www.tirerack.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first. > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale > TeleDale Key Service, > http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale > 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.

Response:

>Here’s a site that may help you. >http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html >Ed

Hi This is Dale again. I looked at that web page and made a couple of comparisons.  This information is very interesting, however, I don’t know yet whether the Safari vans can accomidate the P235.  I think that if I wanted to go one size up (from P205 to P215), that a half an inch shouldn’t cause any problem, but perhaps someone else’s reference material will have specific info on these vans. Thanks again for posting this stuff. TeleDale Key Service,   http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC > Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list > any > such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such > information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know > whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the > P235, and > so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. > When > I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches > (or > going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter). > Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 > inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches > diameter).  I > hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they > can > check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a > message here first. > I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I > can > use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. > Thanks,  Dale

Here’s a site that may help you. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Ed

Response:

I’m trying to find information on the allowable tire sizes for my ‘93 GMC Safari Van. I just came from GMC’s web page, but they don’t seem to list any such information on there.  My owners manual and shop manual offer no such information. My van originally came with P205-75R15,  and I’d like to know whether I can install P235-75R15 on it.  I have an S10 which uses the P235, and so I tried to compare the two tires by holding a tape measure up to them. When I measure from the ground to the top of the P205, I get about 26 inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 27 inches diameter).   Now when I measure from the ground to the top of the P235, I get about 27 inches (or going sideways accross the tire, I get about 29 inches diameter).  I hope that someone out there will have some reference material that they can check for me.  I will attempt to find this online, but I wanted to drop a message here first.   I know that the safest thing is to stay with the original size, but if I can use the P235, then this might be an advantage, I believe. Thanks,  Dale TeleDale Key Service,   http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/teledale 1811 Saratoga Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 44109  U.S.A.  

Response: