2002 Blazer Trailer electrics, also manual vailability

Question:

I don’t find a specific trailer light kit for my 2002 Blazer, only for older Blazers and newer S-10s. I looked under the bumper and there is a capped pigtail connector secured there with about eight wires. I am wondering if this is for a trailer connection, can anyone tell me? If So, does anyone know of a source other than Chevy for a kit? Also, searching my local shops as well as the web I can’t find any repair manuals specific to a 2002 Blazer other than the $52.00 Chilton SUV manual. Does anyone know of a manual that will be applicable to a 2002 Blazer other than the factory manual? Thanks in advance

Response:

> I don’t find a specific trailer light kit for my 2002 Blazer, only for older > Blazers and newer S-10s. I looked under the bumper and there is a capped pigtail > connector secured there with about eight wires. I am wondering if this is for a > trailer connection, can anyone tell me? If So, does anyone know of a source > other than Chevy for a kit? > Also, searching my local shops as well as the web I can’t find any repair > manuals specific to a 2002 Blazer other than the $52.00 Chilton SUV manual. Does > anyone know of a manual that will be applicable to a 2002 Blazer other than the > factory manual? > Thanks in advance

What kind of kit do you want?  That pigtail is the trailer harness.  I expect it has most all connections already made. Several sites have instructions on how to attach connectors: http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.asp http://marksrv.com/ A 7 pin connector costs about $5 at WalMart, Auto supply or any RV supply house. If you want to add a brake controller: http://www.tekonsha.com/product1.html Each type of controller has wire instructions. I am not certain if the Blazer came prewired for brake control.  GMC and Chev. trucks do if you order the trailer harness. If it did all you have to do is buy an adapter cable to plug into a socket under the dash and connect the wires to the controller (Or buy a prewired harness that also plugs into the controller).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t find a specific trailer light kit for my 2002 Blazer, only for older > Blazers and newer S-10s. I looked under the bumper and there is a capped pigtail > connector secured there with about eight wires. I am wondering if this is for a > trailer connection, can anyone tell me? If So, does anyone know of a source > other than Chevy for a kit? > Also, searching my local shops as well as the web I can’t find any repair > manuals specific to a 2002 Blazer other than the $52.00 Chilton SUV manual. Does > anyone know of a manual that will be applicable to a 2002 Blazer other than the > factory manual? > Thanks in advance >What kind of kit do you want?  That pigtail is the trailer harness.  I >expect it has most all connections already made.

I wanted a kit that would plug into that connector on on end and the 4 pin flat connector on the tailer. I did some more looking under the bumber today. The pigtail I was referring to before has about 12 female blade connectors with a cap that has matching blades. I am now real curious waht it could be fore because I found another bumdle of wires that dead ends and it clipped to the inside of the bumper and as a tag with a color code for all the lights. I should be able to hard wire any generic trailer connector. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Several sites have instructions on how to attach connectors: >http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.asp >http://marksrv.com/ >A 7 pin connector costs about $5 at WalMart, Auto supply or any RV >supply house. >If you want to add a brake controller: >http://www.tekonsha.com/product1.html >Each type of controller has wire instructions. >I am not certain if the Blazer came prewired for brake control.  GMC and >Chev. trucks do if you order the trailer harness. If it did all you have >to do is buy an adapter cable to plug into a socket under the dash and >connect the wires to the controller (Or buy a prewired harness that also >plugs into the controller).

Thanks for the reply, the the first web site was helpful as I found out they specify a "universal" kit for the 02 Blazer ($14.95 IIIRC). Still curious what the fancy connector is for, I speculate it is for the towing backage with brakes you mentioned.

Response:

More on the Vortec 4.3: Noise, Vibration, and Harshness

Question:

I agree with you completely, Mike, but I’ve seen a lot of Toyota’s on construction sites…. Granted, they’re typically owned by folks who buy a new one every year…..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> But are Toyota trucks even really a truck?  In my eyes, they aren’t.  Just a > glorified minivan with a bed!  Trucks by nature are supposed to be noisy, > ill-handling brutes!  Call me old-fashioned, but I prefer mine loud and > bumpy!  It feels like Armageddon when my 454 hits 5000 RPM…..probably > registers on the richter scale, and I wouldn’t have it any other way! > Albeit, the Japanese make a HELLUVA good automibile, but really, they’re not > made to be a work truck like the American trucks are.  For towing and > off-roading they’re great, but I would feel very leary about dropping 1500+ > lbs of slag rock in the back of one!  By their very nature trucks were > created for work, and that is what they do.  When’s the last time you saw a > Toyota on a construction site?  I’d do without creature comforts like a > smooth ride past the redline simply for the brute power and hauling capacity > of any yank-made truck! > > Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER. Get > > over it! > Unless it is a V8 Tundra….. > > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in > the > > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I > hope > > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > > truck. > > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > — > Rob Munach, PE > Excel Engineering > Carrboro, NC

Response:

>But how do you REALLY feel, Naz?

I dunno, but I agree with him… the 4.3 is a great engine, and I think all these "feckers" who complain about it are blowing smoke.  none of the ones I’ve seen run rough.  They all run just as smooth as V8’s. If I had to have a V-6, I’d rathe have one based off an engine that’s been around for 40 years and proven itself. Tony Kimmell Normal, IL

Response:

>>But how do you REALLY feel, Naz? >none of the ones I’ve seen run rough.  They all run just as smooth as >V8’s.

This proves my point that many truck buyers aren’t discriminating enough to justify the expense of a new engine design.  The ones that aren’t truly happy with the engine (like me) bought it anyway for some other reason (price of the truck, reliability, features, etc).

Response:

>>>But how do you REALLY feel, Naz? >none of the ones I’ve seen run rough.  They all run just as smooth as >V8’s. >This proves my point that many truck buyers aren’t discriminating enough >to justify the expense of a new engine design.  The ones that aren’t truly >happy with the engine (like me) bought it anyway for some other reason >(price of the truck, reliability, features, etc).

Either that or it proves that some people just care to complain about trivial things.  They had smooth running I-6’s in the 50’s and 60’s that were as smooth as any new engine today. I don’t buy new vehicles… waste of money.  You lose money the minute you drive off the lot. Tony Kimmell Normal, IL

Response:

Replies inline…

> Uh oh, you need to take a deep breath and calm down.  Get over MYself??

I’m completely calm, actually… > I’m the former owner, and I was very happy with it,of an 88 4.3 powered

You’d never know it, from how you keep going on and on about how shitty the engine was. Going on and on… and on.. > S10 Blazer. A friend bought it, and I still see it every day, and even

Nice for you. You must be very proud. > drive it a couple of times a year. It shook at idle from day one, and > buzzes if revved, that’s the way it is, and that’s ok.  But, it’s time to

Whatever you say. I drive one every day- 89 model, and it’s smoother than the 93 Eclipse I used to drive.  Let me translate that for you- "It’s much more smoother’n them thar day-um Jap-traps"….  <please take this as it’s meant: "tongue in cheek"> > say goodbye to hacked V6’s, and move on.  At least GM didn’t hack the 5.3 > V8 into an inferior, NVH wise V6, they did it <editor’s note: more of the

same going on and on ensued……> I will agree a V8 is superior, if we’re talking similar aspiration of the intakes, and so on. However, some of us LIKE V6 motors. Hell- by the time I’m done with my project, it’ll be turbocharged. Now you’re probably going to say something along the lines of how I wouldn’t HAVE to do al that work to the truck if I’d bought a bigger engine, better truck, etc. Well- some of us don’t buy into the fallacy of the latest and greatest thing MUST be sitting in ourr driveway, and besides– the true 4X4′er’s Credo is something along the lines of  "real trucks aren’t bought- they’re built". I’ve taken a lot of inspiration from Roger Brown’s site, and hope to have something equivalent, yet roomier, when I’m done. But I digress… > If they would have offered a V8 in an S10 blazer, I would have gone for > it, mostly for power, not smoothness, but a smoother engine isn’t a bad > thing..

Why, that almost sounds like you’d buy a truck for a truck! Nah.. that couldn’t possibly be…….

Response:

228,000 ABUSIVE miles from the previous owner on the original engine in my truck- 89 S-10 blazer. Replacing it next month, just for piece of mind- I intend to do a lot of traveling up and down the SouthEastern seaboard to conferences and so on, in the coming years.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when > revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, and > Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s > should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a > real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! > I just bought a new S10 with the V6 Vortec.   As far as I am concerned, I am > elated.   I have heard these engines are very reliable and will last for a > long, long time.    I did not need the power or the bad gas mileage of the > V8 so the V6 was enough for me right now.   I have no regrets.

Response:

You know about as much of the 4.3 as Mary Walton does about manufacturing. Hey.  Pack your shit up and move to Japan.  Get a job at Toyota and then write a "fecking" book about THEIR managment and employee relations.  Oh yeah.  I hope your not a woman. Clueless "feck"….. Naz"T"

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when >revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, >and Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s >should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a >real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! > Now THAT’S the troll spirit.  I wondered when someone was going to join > the fun-n-games. > GM didn’t want their balance sheet to take the temporary hit resulting > from the R&D costs for a new 60-degree V6.  So they lop two cylinders off > the 350, make a wonky split-journal crank, and send it out the door. > Aren’t the shareholders proud? > GM saved money for a year or two and then spent the next 15 or so getting > their lunch eaten and filling up press kits with stuff like "new balance > shaft for reductions in NVH" or "roller lifters and roller rockers for > reductions in NVH".  Clue for GM: The fecking engine should’ve had a > roller valvetrain and a balance-shaft since day one.  I wonder how many > people test-drove a 4.3-equipped pickup right after driving a Tacoma or a > Tundra and decided that saving a few grand wouldn’t be worth it after all. > Yeah, sales have been strong but at what price?  It doesn’t do much to > outsell the competition when the quality of your product won’t allow you > to raise the prices high enough to make any real money. > The "Japanese" mfr’s are charging thousands more for similarly-equipped > products, their owners are enjoying thousands more in resale (along with a > lower frequency of repair), and the domestic mfr’s are now backed into a > corner.  Raise prices, add quality, and watch sales plummet (at least > initially).  Shareholders get all pissy over this stuff.  Then they get > equally pissy over the failed water-pump in their S-10 Blazer, but I > digress.  People *expect* similarly-equipped domestics to be cheaper, so > they ARE cheaper.  More cheaply made, too. > You wanna see just what a fucked up position Ford is in, read this: > http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393318613 > You’ll never look at a previous-gen Taurus the same way again. > RM > PS. Stay tuned for Round Two: The Koreans vs the domestics.  History is > about to repeat itself provided the quality of the Korean products > continues to rise.

Response:

But how do you REALLY feel, Naz?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You know about as much of the 4.3 as Mary Walton does about manufacturing. > Hey.  Pack your shit up and move to Japan.  Get a job at Toyota and then > write a "fecking" book about THEIR managment and employee relations.  Oh > yeah.  I hope your not a woman. > Clueless "feck"….. > Naz"T"

Response:

>You know about as much of the 4.3 as Mary Walton does about >manufacturing. Hey.  Pack your shit up and move to Japan.  Get a job at >Toyota and then write a "fecking" book about THEIR managment and >employee relations.

So what little gem of wisdom do YOU have to contribute about the 4.3?  Or are you just here to troll as well?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when >revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, >and Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s >should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a >real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! > Now THAT’S the troll spirit.  I wondered when someone was going to join > the fun-n-games. > GM didn’t want their balance sheet to take the temporary hit resulting > from the R&D costs for a new 60-degree V6.  So they lop two cylinders off > the 350, make a wonky split-journal crank, and send it out the door. > Aren’t the shareholders proud? > GM saved money for a year or two and then spent the next 15 or so getting > their lunch eaten and filling up press kits with stuff like "new balance > shaft for reductions in NVH" or "roller lifters and roller rockers for > reductions in NVH".  Clue for GM: The fecking engine should’ve had a > roller valvetrain and a balance-shaft since day one.  I wonder how many > people test-drove a 4.3-equipped pickup right after driving a Tacoma or a > Tundra and decided that saving a few grand wouldn’t be worth it after all. > Yeah, sales have been strong but at what price?  It doesn’t do much to > outsell the competition when the quality of your product won’t allow you > to raise the prices high enough to make any real money. > The "Japanese" mfr’s are charging thousands more for similarly-equipped > products, their owners are enjoying thousands more in resale (along with a > lower frequency of repair), and the domestic mfr’s are now backed into a > corner.  Raise prices, add quality, and watch sales plummet (at least > initially).  Shareholders get all pissy over this stuff.  Then they get > equally pissy over the failed water-pump in their S-10 Blazer, but I > digress.  People *expect* similarly-equipped domestics to be cheaper, so > they ARE cheaper.  More cheaply made, too. > You wanna see just what a fucked up position Ford is in, read this: > http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393318613 > You’ll never look at a previous-gen Taurus the same way again. > RM > PS. Stay tuned for Round Two: The Koreans vs the domestics.  History is > about to repeat itself provided the quality of the Korean products > continues to rise.

A couple of women at work have Korean cars, and they seem to be ok.   Nothing I would buy, but not the crude POS things they were not that long ago… Nice post!! BDK

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you keep your head up your ass for the view? > OK– you don’t like trucks that you say are buzzy. Get OVER yourself, don’t > buy the truck you don’t like, and take a hike! > > Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > > over it! > > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in > the > > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I > hope > > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > > truck. > > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when > revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, and > Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s > should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a > real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! > BDK, smooth 5.3 driver..

Uh oh, you need to take a deep breath and calm down.  Get over MYself?? I’m the former owner, and I was very happy with it,of an 88 4.3 powered S10 Blazer. A friend bought it, and I still see it every day, and even drive it a couple of times a year. It shook at idle from day one, and buzzes if revved, that’s the way it is, and that’s ok.  But, it’s time to say goodbye to hacked V6’s, and move on.  At least GM didn’t hack the 5.3 V8 into an inferior, NVH wise V6, they did it right, spent the money, and made what, so far seems to be a good engine. If they would have offered a V8 in an S10 blazer, I would have gone for it, mostly for power, not smoothness, but a smoother engine isn’t a bad thing.. BDK

Response:

>So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when >revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, >and Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s >should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a >real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!!

Now THAT’S the troll spirit.  I wondered when someone was going to join the fun-n-games. GM didn’t want their balance sheet to take the temporary hit resulting from the R&D costs for a new 60-degree V6.  So they lop two cylinders off the 350, make a wonky split-journal crank, and send it out the door. Aren’t the shareholders proud? GM saved money for a year or two and then spent the next 15 or so getting their lunch eaten and filling up press kits with stuff like "new balance shaft for reductions in NVH" or "roller lifters and roller rockers for reductions in NVH".  Clue for GM: The fecking engine should’ve had a roller valvetrain and a balance-shaft since day one.  I wonder how many people test-drove a 4.3-equipped pickup right after driving a Tacoma or a Tundra and decided that saving a few grand wouldn’t be worth it after all. Yeah, sales have been strong but at what price?  It doesn’t do much to outsell the competition when the quality of your product won’t allow you to raise the prices high enough to make any real money. The "Japanese" mfr’s are charging thousands more for similarly-equipped products, their owners are enjoying thousands more in resale (along with a lower frequency of repair), and the domestic mfr’s are now backed into a corner.  Raise prices, add quality, and watch sales plummet (at least initially).  Shareholders get all pissy over this stuff.  Then they get equally pissy over the failed water-pump in their S-10 Blazer, but I digress.  People *expect* similarly-equipped domestics to be cheaper, so they ARE cheaper.  More cheaply made, too. You wanna see just what a fucked up position Ford is in, read this: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393318613 You’ll never look at a previous-gen Taurus the same way again. RM PS. Stay tuned for Round Two: The Koreans vs the domestics.  History is about to repeat itself provided the quality of the Korean products continues to rise.

Response:

the operative word there was TRUCK, not oversized car. Snowman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > over it! > Unless it is a V8 Tundra….. > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > truck. > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > — > Rob Munach, PE > Excel Engineering > Carrboro, NC

Response:

>Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER. >Get over it!

BMW?  Hell, I’d settle for the smoothness of a rented Malibu or something.

Response:

My point was that it’s not a car.  Be happy it’s as smooth as it is.  My 94 is butter-smooth at times and has a slight lope to the idle at others.  It shifts smoothly and accelrates nicely.  Has a rumble but isn’t obtrusive… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER. >Get over it! > BMW?  Hell, I’d settle for the smoothness of a rented Malibu or something.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > over it! > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > truck. > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys

So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, and Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! BDK, smooth 5.3 driver..

Response:

Do you keep your head up your ass for the view? OK– you don’t like trucks that you say are buzzy. Get OVER yourself, don’t buy the truck you don’t like, and take a hike!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > over it! > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > truck. > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when > revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, and > Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s > should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a > real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! > BDK, smooth 5.3 driver..

Response:

I’ll put my 2002 Envoy up against a Tundra any day of the week 4.2 L6 Gotta luv it -Max

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > over it! > Unless it is a V8 Tundra….. > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > truck. > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > — > Rob Munach, PE > Excel Engineering > Carrboro, NC

Response:

Right on the money nooneyouknow!  Maybe he likes the view? Again, the point was, a truck is a truck.  If you’re buying a truck because it has a smooth idle, leather interior, and is more comfortable than your Honda, chances are you don’t even need a truck.  It seems the yuppie trend in SUV purchases is overflowing into the truck market, something that Toyota, Dodge, and Ford are certainly catering too.  The GM Avalanche could be considered a yuppie mobile by some, but it’s just too damn huge to be dubbed as such in my books!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you keep your head up your ass for the view? > OK– you don’t like trucks that you say are buzzy. Get OVER yourself, don’t > buy the truck you don’t like, and take a hike! > > Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER. Get > > over it! > > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in > the > > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I > hope > > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > > truck. > > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > So all trucks are supposed to have a crude hacked V6 that buzzes when > revved, and shakes at idle??  Boy, I guess all of us GM, Ford, Dodge, and > Toyota V8 owners and all the other trucks with smooth I6’s and V6’s > should be pissed.  I guess we don’t have a rough enough engine to have a > real truck, eh??  Good riddance 4.3, and ALL the hack job V6’s!! > BDK, smooth 5.3 driver..

Response:

Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my truck. RM <– no, you can’t have the keys

Response:

Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get over it! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > truck. > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys

Response:

> Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > over it!

Unless it is a V8 Tundra….. > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > truck. > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys

– Rob Munach, PE Excel Engineering Carrboro, NC

Response:

But are Toyota trucks even really a truck?  In my eyes, they aren’t.  Just a glorified minivan with a bed!  Trucks by nature are supposed to be noisy, ill-handling brutes!  Call me old-fashioned, but I prefer mine loud and bumpy!  It feels like Armageddon when my 454 hits 5000 RPM…..probably registers on the richter scale, and I wouldn’t have it any other way! Albeit, the Japanese make a HELLUVA good automibile, but really, they’re not made to be a work truck like the American trucks are.  For towing and off-roading they’re great, but I would feel very leary about dropping 1500+ lbs of slag rock in the back of one!  By their very nature trucks were created for work, and that is what they do.  When’s the last time you saw a Toyota on a construction site?  I’d do without creature comforts like a smooth ride past the redline simply for the brute power and hauling capacity of any yank-made truck!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what, it’s a TRUCK.  It will NOT be as smooth as a BMW, EVER.  Get > over it! > Unless it is a V8 Tundra….. > > Bounced ‘er off the rev-limiter for the first time today.  The buzz in the > > gear-shift lever was quite overwhelming.  Left my arm all tingly.  I hope > > my girlfriend doesn’t discover this.  Otherwise she’ll leave me for my > > truck. > > RM <– no, you can’t have the keys > — > Rob Munach, PE > Excel Engineering > Carrboro, NC

Response:

88 GMC Safari – not turning over

Question:

260,000 some odd km.  It’s been standing since middle of october and probably only started once.  So I go out today and tried to start it and for a sec it started to turn over but then just a clicking sounds which kept getting faster as you would hold the key.  Anybody know what’s wrong??  The battery is good that’s for sure.  I’m guessing it’s either the starter motor or the engine might of seized up on us.  Any helpful replies would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Response:

Your problem is indicative of a low battery, but you say it’s ok.  That leaves a bad cannection between the battery and starter or a loose connection on the starter to solenoid ground bar or a bad solenoid.  All of which can be fixed without new parts, just labor. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 260,000 some odd km.  It’s been standing since middle of october and > probably only started once.  So I go out today and tried to start it and for > a sec it started to turn over but then just a clicking sounds which kept > getting faster as you would hold the key.  Anybody know what’s wrong??  The > battery is good that’s for sure.  I’m guessing it’s either the starter motor > or the engine might of seized up on us.  Any helpful replies would be > greatly appreciated. > Thanks

Response:

Try taking your battery cables off and cleaning the inside of the connectors and the posts with a wire brush tool which is available at most auto parts stores. If this doesn’t work then do the same at the starter/solenoid end of the cable. Then the ground cable from battery to the engine. — Jarhead

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 260,000 some odd km.  It’s been standing since middle of october and > probably only started once.  So I go out today and tried to start it and for > a sec it started to turn over but then just a clicking sounds which kept > getting faster as you would hold the key.  Anybody know what’s wrong?? The > battery is good that’s for sure.  I’m guessing it’s either the starter motor > or the engine might of seized up on us.  Any helpful replies would be > greatly appreciated. > Thanks

Response:

fuel gauge problems

Question:

With these new computer controlled cars, God only knows why they need so many wires.  It used to be just one but now it’s probably on the computer bus and that means a power, ground and 4 signalling wires. The worst part is that you can’t figure out which end is the problem because the connection between them is digital and you will need the good sniffer box in order to see if the transmitter is sending the right message. — Bob May Access1 has gone Chapter 7 so I don’t know how long my website is going to last. Bob May

Response:

Follow up: I now know what all the wires are coming from the fuel tank.  When GM redesigned the Astro/Safari they moved the fuel pump into the tank. From the cluster of wires that leave the tank, does anyone know which ones are for the fuel positioning sensor?  What is the resistance of the sensor?  I need to know before dropping the tank and the $87.00 for the positioner.  I’d hate to put in a positioner to find that the gauge is shot. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The fuel gauge on my 97 GMC Safari is erratic.  When the engine is first > started the gauge can go anywhere from full to empty.  It usually > settles down after a few minutes but has been known to jump for no > reason.  Any ideas on the problem or how I can eliminate if the problem > is in the gauge or tank?  The sending unit has several wires running to > it (about 6).  What area ll these wires?  My 94 Safari had only 3 wires > running to the tank. > Mark

Response:

The fuel gauge on my 97 GMC Safari is erratic.  When the engine is first started the gauge can go anywhere from full to empty.  It usually settles down after a few minutes but has been known to jump for no reason.  Any ideas on the problem or how I can eliminate if the problem is in the gauge or tank?  The sending unit has several wires running to it (about 6).  What area ll these wires?  My 94 Safari had only 3 wires running to the tank. Mark

Response:

Drivability problem

Question:

Thanks Guys — Tips, Tweaks, Help Forum Computers & Kits http://www.acon-pchelp.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My ‘87 K5 has suddenly developed an extreme over rich condition when it > reaches proper running temp. It showed a code 24 which indicates the vehicle > speed sensor. This doesn’t seem likely to > be causing the problem. This started shortly after having to jump start the > truck. The truck starts fine, but after warming up is starts running very > rough and often stalls, much like a sunken float would do in a carbureted > engine. >  I have just disconnected the battery to reset the codes, and while I wait I > thought I would throw this out to the group for any ideas. >  TIA. >     JR > — > Tips, Tweaks, Help Forum > Computers & Kits > http://www.acon-pchelp.com

Response:

I had a similar problem with a GMC 5L truck and the problem was rapidly identify when I promptly disconnect the temperature sensor while the motor began to run roughly.  The engine then runs with preset level instead of with the actual motor temperature and stop running roughly.  This point out the sensor which has been replace to fix the problem . Good luck, Mario – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My ‘87 K5 has suddenly developed an extreme over rich condition when it > reaches proper running temp. It showed a code 24 which indicates the vehicle > speed sensor. This doesn’t seem likely to > be causing the problem. This started shortly after having to jump start the > truck. The truck starts fine, but after warming up is starts running very > rough and often stalls, much like a sunken float would do in a carbureted > engine. >  I have just disconnected the battery to reset the codes, and while I wait I > thought I would throw this out to the group for any ideas. >  TIA. >     JR > — > Tips, Tweaks, Help Forum > Computers & Kits > http://www.acon-pchelp.com

Response:

My ‘87 K5 has suddenly developed an extreme over rich condition when it reaches proper running temp. It showed a code 24 which indicates the vehicle speed sensor. This doesn’t seem likely to be causing the problem. This started shortly after having to jump start the truck. The truck starts fine, but after warming up is starts running very rough and often stalls, much like a sunken float would do in a carbureted engine.  I have just disconnected the battery to reset the codes, and while I wait I thought I would throw this out to the group for any ideas.  TIA.     JR — Tips, Tweaks, Help Forum Computers & Kits http://www.acon-pchelp.com

Response:

Two things. 1) Check the CTS. If it’s bad the ECM will think the engine is cold after it’s warmed up… hence the over rich condition. 2) The other possibility is that the ECM was damaged during the jump start. This is more common than you might think. Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My ‘87 K5 has suddenly developed an extreme over rich condition when it >reaches proper running temp. It showed a code 24 which indicates the vehicle >speed sensor. This doesn’t seem likely to >be causing the problem. This started shortly after having to jump start the >truck. The truck starts fine, but after warming up is starts running very >rough and often stalls, much like a sunken float would do in a carbureted >engine. > I have just disconnected the battery to reset the codes, and while I wait I >thought I would throw this out to the group for any ideas. > TIA. >    JR >– >Tips, Tweaks, Help Forum >Computers & Kits >http://www.acon-pchelp.com

Response:

day time running lights

Question:

i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any one elsa had this problem?

Response:

> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500as I haven’t had the

Response:

> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual system. I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. nospam

Response:

Well, Ron, I bought my 99 Z71 a year ago.  I changed my DTR’s from 3157’s to 4157 amber.  I’ve put 29k miles on it and haven’t burned out a bulb yet. I’m not sure what some people call a drain on the charging system – mine are a turnsignal bulb.  I’ve added 14 led’s and 4 clearance lights to my park light circuit.  On the rear, I have a 60 led light bar and 10 other led light bolts.  I also have 9 led’s added to my brake/turn signal on the rear. During the daytime, mt DTR’s are on and all the lights that come on with my parklights.  Lots of people have problems with the DTR’s burning out bulbs. Everybody has an opinion but nobody knows why.  I haven’t seen the bulb you listed, but my only suggestion would be to get one that is "heavy duty" – usually labeled as long life. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

Response:

twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has > any > one elsa had this problem? > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > system. > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > nospam

Response:

Mr DTR’s aren’t disconnected.  Like I said, they are a turnsignal bulb. However, I did have a 97 Suburban and the DTR’s were a reduced voltage through the high beam headlights.  I also go through guard gates at military installations and it sucks that you have no control over them.  On the 97, I pulled the fuse.  It killed the DTR’s but the little green light was still on in the dash.  My 99 has auto headlights and I hated them too.  I bought a headlight controller on the net.  My auto headlights are by choice now.  I have a switch that turns off my DTR’s and auto headlights.  When the switch is on (in the daytime) my DTR’s are on and I run parklights.  At night, my auto headlights come on.  Then I switch them off so my factory headlight switch works and I have control over the headlights. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has > any > > one elsa had this problem? > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > system. > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > nospam

Response:

How do they expect us to signal an oncomming motorist that they forgot to turn on their headlights?  My DRLs on my 99 yukon are the same as your 97 burb.  Has the standard changed from flipping your headlights on and off to flashing your high beams?  How about signaling a rig that he is passed you? When were they going to inform us of this?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Mr DTR’s aren’t disconnected.  Like I said, they are a turnsignal bulb. > However, I did have a 97 Suburban and the DTR’s were a reduced voltage > through the high beam headlights.  I also go through guard gates at military > installations and it sucks that you have no control over them.  On the 97, I > pulled the fuse.  It killed the DTR’s but the little green light was still > on in the dash.  My 99 has auto headlights and I hated them too.  I bought a > headlight controller on the net.  My auto headlights are by choice now.  I > have a switch that turns off my DTR’s and auto headlights.  When the switch > is on (in the daytime) my DTR’s are on and I run parklights.  At night, my > auto headlights come on.  Then I switch them off so my factory headlight > switch works and I have control over the headlights. > . > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. > has > > any > > > one elsa had this problem? > > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > > system. > > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights > don’t > > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > > nospam

Response:

may i ask where you got your l e d’s? thanks. mail me info if ya prefer

Response:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=ACC… These guys are the cheapest I found for led bolts.  The 60 led light bar is carried by Whitney – its a little high at $94 but its what I wanted.  I also got some at autozone for $5 a pair, but they don’t come with nuts.  They are supposed to screw into the plastic license plate holder. .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> may i ask where you got your l e d’s? > thanks. > mail me info if ya prefer

Response:

Thanks for the link

Response:

For my truck, a 1999 K1500 I found the DRL module under the dash, used a wiring schematic to locate the wire that senses the ignition on condition and turns the lights on. I snipped the wire and placed an SPST switch under the dash so that I can activate then if I want to. nospam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has > any > > one elsa had this problem? > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > system. > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights don’t > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > nospam

Response:

Found a fuse for DRL on my 96 Sonoma.  Pulled the fuse and  THANK GOD they’re off.  They were the type that used the low-beams for DRL.  Didn’t seem much different than having the headlights on (except the tail-lights). Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > For my truck, a 1999 K1500 I found the DRL module under the dash, used a > wiring schematic to locate the wire that senses the ignition on condition > and turns the lights on. I snipped the wire and placed an SPST switch under > the dash so that I can activate then if I want to. > nospam > twightlight guard stops me so he can see stick clearly, 97 sub c1500? > > > i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > > > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > > > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. > has > > any > > > one elsa had this problem? > > Sorry about the incomplete post, hit the damn enter key… > > I haven’t had problems with my ‘99 K1500 as I haven’t had the truck very > > long. But I don’t like them because they just put undue stress on the > > charging system. I disconnected mine and now have a completely manual > > system. > > I have an early 1999 and my be different than yours, my head lights > don’t > > come on at dusk. So they are really worthless on mine. > > nospam

Response:

I have a 2001 Suburban and had to replace both of my DRL’s already.  Now that I’m aware of it I’m amazed at how many GMC/Chevy trucks I see that have one burned out. -Brown

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i, have an 1999 chev pick up w/25xxx miles. > have had to to replace both left, and right 3 time . > talked with dealer about problem,he said to switch to lamp # 4114k. has any > one elsa had this problem?

Response:

with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride button and over ride the drl and it kills them. i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

The 1999 old body doesn’t either. That’s why I dissected mine. nospam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine. > with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

It works on my fathers 2002 Astro

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The 1999 old body doesn’t either. That’s why I dissected mine. > nospam > This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine. > > with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over ride > > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

As I recall, they did not add the ability to do this until 2000.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It works on my fathers 2002 Astro > The 1999 old body doesn’t either. That’s why I dissected mine. > nospam > > This does not work on the 99 (new body) I tried it on mine. > > > with my 2000 z71 if i want to kill the drl i just use the dome over > ride > > > button and over ride the drl and it kills them. > > > i think its 3 times you pushing the button

Response:

   On my 97` I just step on the emergence brake 1 click.The DTRL shut off. Never replaced bulbs yet. Still factory. 1/4 Mile Junkies

Response:

Can you tell if the brake is engaging at all.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->    On my 97` I just step on the emergence brake 1 click.The DTRL shut > off. Never replaced bulbs yet. Still factory. > 1/4 Mile Junkies

Response:

Guys, just go to www.lightsout.org and click on the "disable" button.  I found a modification tip there that I did in about 2 minutes, and killed the DRL’s. Everything else works.  Mission accomplished.

Response:

In my 96 suburban all you have todo is remove the fuse this will eliminate the drl feature

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

Response:

Gonna try this …. "GM 98 full size truck (probably same for 96-99 C/K). There is a cigarette pack sized finned black heat sink (this is a double diode, 2 volt drop) located near the steering column. Unplug the 2 wire connector, this will remove DRL on any GM car using low beam DRL. (Will not defeat the auto ON)" Thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light > and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. > Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick > This is from the following website > http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html > Some recent Chev/GMtrucks, and maybe some others, have a temporary disable. > Engine running, push DOME OVERRIDE button 4 time within 6 seconds; and if > you did it right, it will beep, and the DRLs will be disabled, until you > turn the truck off. Half-assed, but better than nothing. > 99Up Chev/GM full size trucks with dedicated DRLs. Some people have put in > amber bulbs, I suggest dead bulbs or remove them altogether. These DRLs burn > out frequently. Also, if one amber bulb burns out, the remaining functioning > bulb may be interpreted as a turn signal! > GM 98 full size truck (probably same for 96-99 C/K). There is a cigarette > pack sized finned black heat sink (this is a double diode, 2 volt drop) > located near the steering column. Unplug the 2 wire connector, this will > remove DRL on any GM car using low beam DRL. (Will not defeat the auto ON) > Chev Blazer: 98 S-10 underhood fuse box, remove black DIODE, 99’s may be > same, 2000’s are not. AUTO LIGHTS ON:: 98-2000 S-10; remove pass side > speaker grill and unplug sensor, replace with a 1000 ohm resistor.

Response:

Ok, good info but let me elaborate on what I would like. with the headlights off, the (headlights on) signal is on, signaling the DRLs are on. When I turn the headlights on the (headlights on) signal turns off, signaling the DRLs are off. I want that all to work like a normal set up. No DRLs. turn the lights on and the (headlight on) signal comes on, turn the lights off and the signal goes off. it seems to me that there might be a control box I can swap out of a 98 or older model to accomplish this. I know the fuse would work but I want a permanent fix, not a temporary one. Ill consult my dealer and post there answer in a few days. Thanks for all the help, Patrick

Response:

> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

This is from the following website http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html Some recent Chev/GMtrucks, and maybe some others, have a temporary disable. Engine running, push DOME OVERRIDE button 4 time within 6 seconds; and if you did it right, it will beep, and the DRLs will be disabled, until you turn the truck off. Half-assed, but better than nothing. 99Up Chev/GM full size trucks with dedicated DRLs. Some people have put in amber bulbs, I suggest dead bulbs or remove them altogether. These DRLs burn out frequently. Also, if one amber bulb burns out, the remaining functioning bulb may be interpreted as a turn signal! GM 98 full size truck (probably same for 96-99 C/K). There is a cigarette pack sized finned black heat sink (this is a double diode, 2 volt drop) located near the steering column. Unplug the 2 wire connector, this will remove DRL on any GM car using low beam DRL. (Will not defeat the auto ON) Chev Blazer: 98 S-10 underhood fuse box, remove black DIODE, 99’s may be same, 2000’s are not. AUTO LIGHTS ON:: 98-2000 S-10; remove pass side speaker grill and unplug sensor, replace with a 1000 ohm resistor.

Response:

i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks in advance. -Patrick

Response:

There is a fuse for them in the fuse panel left side of driver in the dash. just remove it and no problems. i do this to go driving at dusk with no lights to scare animals. john

i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks in advance. -Patrick

Response:

> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

There is supposed to be a code in the owner’s manual to disengage the drl…something about turning lights on while in reverse with the door open…or something like that.  If it’s not in the owner’s manual, I bet the service manager at the dealers knows the trick. HH

Response:

Pull the fuse. Jon Larsson

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 99 K1500, not the new silverado. its has daytime running light and > i want the get rid of them. how can i do this? it seem i can take a part > from an older model without day time running lights but am not sure. Thanks > in advance. > -Patrick

Response:

poor braking performance???

Question:

 Make sure the back brakes are adjusted up, you can nock out the small metal peice’s at the bottom of the backing plate and adjust them with a brake spade just like older chevy’s. This improved my brakes immensly. Dave J

Response:

their are two things i would do.     1 check for any t.s.b.s from gm on  this -i don’t remember seeing any other problems on this but there could be.     2 there are a few different things that can affect brake pedal travel and performance. brake fluid condition (fluild conditon and air in the fluid) .  front brake rotor thickness and caliper condition ,rear brake shoe condition and adjustment ,and some models also have some adjustment on the mastercylinder plunger rod.   the best thing for you to do is to completely inspect your brake system front to rear!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve also noticed that my 1991 GMC Z71 doesn’t have the greatest brakes in > the world.  I’ve only had it about 2 months.  Pedal feel is good for normal > street driving, but there isn’t much travel/braking power left over for > emergency stops.  I’ve got 265/75/16 tires on it and CANNOT lock them up on > dry pavement.  Not even close. > I’m going to change the brake fluid and do a solid bleed job, but my > mechanic tells me that the brakes in these models just suck, period.  The > upper flex hoses in the front brakes have been changed, and the brake system > itself is fresh (rotors, pads and shoes…drums were ok) > Any ideas on how to get more braking power?  It almost seems to me that the > pedal doesn’t go down far enough before it bottoms out.  In a couple of > occaisions, I’ve had to really yank on the whoa-pedal, maxed out the travel, > and pushed it down even further (flexing very tightly) to get more > stoppage….. > something seem odd? > brian.

Response:

it is the design of the brake system. if you had a 2500 or then a 1500 with the diesel and 4×4, the brakes are better. i have the same problem on my 97 tahoe. the brakes are real bad. you can get better brakes, but they are mucho money to do the upgrade. gm was also dumb staying with the small brakes (the truck comes with 16" wheels, but 15" fits also..) where the new style trucks use bigger brakes (some aftermarket 16" don’t fit without spacers) that are much better – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve also noticed that my 1991 GMC Z71 doesn’t have the greatest brakes in > the world.  I’ve only had it about 2 months.  Pedal feel is good for normal > street driving, but there isn’t much travel/braking power left over for > emergency stops.  I’ve got 265/75/16 tires on it and CANNOT lock them up on > dry pavement.  Not even close. > I’m going to change the brake fluid and do a solid bleed job, but my > mechanic tells me that the brakes in these models just suck, period.  The > upper flex hoses in the front brakes have been changed, and the brake system > itself is fresh (rotors, pads and shoes…drums were ok) > Any ideas on how to get more braking power?  It almost seems to me that the > pedal doesn’t go down far enough before it bottoms out.  In a couple of > occaisions, I’ve had to really yank on the whoa-pedal, maxed out the travel, > and pushed it down even further (flexing very tightly) to get more > stoppage….. > something seem odd? > brian.

Response:

I’ve also noticed that my 1991 GMC Z71 doesn’t have the greatest brakes in the world.  I’ve only had it about 2 months.  Pedal feel is good for normal street driving, but there isn’t much travel/braking power left over for emergency stops.  I’ve got 265/75/16 tires on it and CANNOT lock them up on dry pavement.  Not even close. I’m going to change the brake fluid and do a solid bleed job, but my mechanic tells me that the brakes in these models just suck, period.  The upper flex hoses in the front brakes have been changed, and the brake system itself is fresh (rotors, pads and shoes…drums were ok) Any ideas on how to get more braking power?  It almost seems to me that the pedal doesn’t go down far enough before it bottoms out.  In a couple of occaisions, I’ve had to really yank on the whoa-pedal, maxed out the travel, and pushed it down even further (flexing very tightly) to get more stoppage….. something seem odd? brian.

Response:

GMC Lemon

Question:

Our 97 Sierra PU has had the differiental replace 5 times and the transmission overhauled once in the past year.  We have 34K on the truck.  How do I get my money back and get out of the lease I have? — Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email — always at Talkway. http://www.talkway.com

Response:

This all depends on where you live or more so where you purchased that vehicle.  If you are in Canada I can give you information about how to get help. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Our 97 Sierra PU has had the differiental replace 5 times and the >transmission overhauled once in the past year.  We have 34K on the >truck.  How do I get my money back and get out of the lease I have? >– >Surf Usenet at home, on the road, and by email — always at Talkway. >http://www.talkway.com

Response:

Look in your owners manual. There should be some information as to how to start the procedure. If you live in California, you might wish to go to my website www.tennerlaw.com

Response:

>Our 97 Sierra PU has had the differiental replace 5 times and the >transmission overhauled once in the past year.  We have 34K on the >truck.  How do I get my money back and get out of the lease I have?

Good luck.  Lemon laws vary by state/country.  For Texas check out:    http://www.dot.state.tx.us/insdtdot/orgchart/mvd/lemon/lemonlaw.htm In Texas you have only up to 12 months or 12,000 miles to try for the lemon law. Bill P.

Response:

2003 GMC

Question:

Go back to the dealer and tell him to fix it! It is his responsibility to research GMC files and updates! I am sure you payed big bucks for that truck, and that dealership was very glad to take your money!  If you would have a failure and were in a serious accident, he could be in trouble.  Email GMC and tell them your problem…I am sure they would like to know about it…talk to management at the dealership first! Andy

  This is the first time to post to any board so please bear with me!   Sorry to post here, but unable to find GMC message board.   Since GMC & Chevy are relatively the same, maybe someone can help.   I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 that periodically has a message saying ‘Service 4WD’.   The truck will then lose engine power, A/C blows hot air, all lights on panel light up, and no gauges   work.   I have had it back to dealer (Pitre, Albuquerque), who witnessed this, but by the time they got it into shop to repair   everything was back to normal. They ran diagnostics and said that nothing was wrong. But it occurred again today.   Has anyone experienced this and/or do you have any ideas?   Thanks.

Response:

Read here http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cgi/forum/YaBB.pl?board=problem;…   This is the first time to post to any board so please bear with me!   Sorry to post here, but unable to find GMC message board.   Since GMC & Chevy are relatively the same, maybe someone can help.   I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 that periodically has a message saying ‘Service 4WD’.   The truck will then lose engine power, A/C blows hot air, all lights on panel light up, and no gauges   work.   I have had it back to dealer (Pitre, Albuquerque), who witnessed this, but by the time they got it into shop to repair   everything was back to normal. They ran diagnostics and said that nothing was wrong. But it occurred again today.   Has anyone experienced this and/or do you have any ideas?   Thanks.

Response:

How do you like your  Duramax/Allison powered truck so far? Would you recommend it as a combo daily driver/tow vehicle? Thanks JR — A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always count on Paul’s support. — Computer Tips & Tweaks www.acon-pchelp.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is a recent service bulletin on 4wd service message and all > lights on electronic 4WD going crazy.  I never heard about a tie in > with gauges and a/c being affected. > The 4wd service message and lights going crazy has been suffered by > numerous 2003 2500/3500 gm/chevy vehicles. > If you poke around the forums at www.thedieselpage.com you will find > more info, including the service bulletin number I am sure.  I think > it came out around April. > Look only for messages about the 2003.  Older vehicles had a 4WD > service light, and the cause of that problem is different. > Ray 2003 GMC Duramax/Allison 4wd 2500HD Crew Cab >This is the first time to post to any board so please bear with me! >Sorry to post here, but unable to find GMC message board. >Since GMC & Chevy are relatively the same, maybe someone can help. >I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 that periodically has a message saying ‘Service 4WD’. >The truck will then lose engine power, A/C blows hot air, all lights on

panel light up, and no gauges >work. >I have had it back to dealer (Pitre, Albuquerque), who witnessed this,

but by the time they got it into shop to repair >everything was back to normal. They ran diagnostics and said that nothing

was wrong. But it occurred again today. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Has anyone experienced this and/or do you have any ideas? >Thanks.

Response:

>How do you like your  Duramax/Allison powered truck so far? >Would you recommend it as a combo daily driver/tow vehicle? >Thanks >JR

I have no experience with it as a tow vehicle, but use it extensively as a weekend cruiser and some daily driving.   The fuel economy and torque  are better than I expected.  I get no worse than 17.5 mpg in short drives, and up to 21.5 mpg over the road.   It is a little large for city driving at almost 20 feet, but the turning radius is fine for a vehicle of this size.  In winter, it takes the engine 10 miles to get up to full operating temperature. You may want to look at www.dieselpage.com forums for questions about towing.  The guys there think it does a great job.       The oil stays remarkably clean.  At 5000 miles it is cleaner than most cars at the same mileage.  The Allison is great too, downshifting on its own to provide braking force  on downhill grades. I have the top of the line SLT model.  A friend of mine who is a Mercedes fanatic and who has no use for SUV vehicles likes this truck and says the seats are better and more supportive than those in the Benz. Other than the aforementioned 4×4 problem, the truck has been defect free.  Would buy again in a minute. Ray      

Response:

Great!!, Thanks for the quick reply and the link.         JR — Computer Tips & Tweaks www.acon-pchelp.com — A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always count on Paul’s support. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->How do you like your  Duramax/Allison powered truck so far? >Would you recommend it as a combo daily driver/tow vehicle? >Thanks >JR > I have no experience with it as a tow vehicle, but use it extensively > as a weekend cruiser and some daily driving.   The fuel economy and > torque  are better than I expected.  I get no worse than 17.5 mpg in > short drives, and up to 21.5 mpg over the road.   It is a little large > for city driving at almost 20 feet, but the turning radius is fine for > a vehicle of this size.  In winter, it takes the engine 10 miles to > get up to full operating temperature. > You may want to look at www.dieselpage.com forums for questions about > towing.  The guys there think it does a great job. > The oil stays remarkably clean.  At 5000 miles it is cleaner than most > cars at the same mileage.  The Allison is great too, downshifting on > its own to provide braking force  on downhill grades. > I have the top of the line SLT model.  A friend of mine who is a > Mercedes fanatic and who has no use for SUV vehicles likes this truck > and says the seats are better and more supportive than those in the > Benz. > Other than the aforementioned 4×4 problem, the truck has been defect > free.  Would buy again in a minute. > Ray

Response:

Whoops, it is www.thedieselpage.com Ray

Response:

> >This is the first time to post to any board so please bear with me! >Sorry to post here, but unable to find GMC message board. >Since GMC & Chevy are relatively the same, maybe someone can help. >I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 that periodically has a message saying ‘Service 4WD’. >The truck will then lose engine power, A/C blows hot air, all lights on

panel light up, and no gauges >work. >I have had it back to dealer (Pitre, Albuquerque), who witnessed this,

but by the time they got it into shop to repair >everything was back to normal. They ran diagnostics and said that nothing

was wrong. But it occurred again today. >Has anyone experienced this and/or do you have any ideas? >Thanks.

Ask your dealer to check out TSB 02-04-21-006A and see if it applies (from AllData). Also, looking at NHTSA:       Make : GMC Model : SIERRA Year : 2003       Service Bulletin Num : 030421001 Date of Bulletin: FEB 01, 2003       Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSFER CASE (4-WHEEL DRIVE)       Summary:        4-WHEEL DRIVE LIGHT, 4-WHEEL DRIVE INOPERATIVE, DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES C0327, P0836, P0500. *TT       HMc begin 666 spacer.gif $3 $`.P“ ` end

Response:

This is the first time to post to any board so please bear with me! Sorry to post here, but unable to find GMC message board. Since GMC & Chevy are relatively the same, maybe someone can help. I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 that periodically has a message saying ‘Service 4WD’. The truck will then lose engine power, A/C blows hot air, all lights on panel light up, and no gauges work. I have had it back to dealer (Pitre, Albuquerque), who witnessed this, but by the time they got it into shop to repair everything was back to normal. They ran diagnostics and said that nothing was wrong. But it occurred again today. Has anyone experienced this and/or do you have any ideas? Thanks.

Response:

There is a recent service bulletin on 4wd service message and all lights on electronic 4WD going crazy.  I never heard about a tie in with gauges and a/c being affected. The 4wd service message and lights going crazy has been suffered by numerous 2003 2500/3500 gm/chevy vehicles.   If you poke around the forums at www.thedieselpage.com you will find more info, including the service bulletin number I am sure.  I think it came out around April. Look only for messages about the 2003.  Older vehicles had a 4WD service light, and the cause of that problem is different. Ray 2003 GMC Duramax/Allison 4wd 2500HD Crew Cab – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >This is the first time to post to any board so please bear with me! >Sorry to post here, but unable to find GMC message board. >Since GMC & Chevy are relatively the same, maybe someone can help. >I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 that periodically has a message saying ‘Service 4WD’. >The truck will then lose engine power, A/C blows hot air, all lights on panel light up, and no gauges >work. >I have had it back to dealer (Pitre, Albuquerque), who witnessed this, but by the time they got it into shop to repair >everything was back to normal. They ran diagnostics and said that nothing was wrong. But it occurred again today. >Has anyone experienced this and/or do you have any ideas? >Thanks.

Response:

Tail lamps won't go out

Question:

I’ve been meaning to get into the local yard just to scope out the 73-91 blazer/burbs for any toys, etc…. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck….. >:| >:|~KJ~ > go look at the 88-98 C/K tail lights and you’ll see the infamous bulb > mount board. > -Bret >:| >:|> >:|> >:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. >:|Relocate it >:|> >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I >:|mean, >:|> >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own >:|that >:|> >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. >:|Mayhaps >:|> >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~KJ~ >:|> >:|> you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights >:|> in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to >:|> use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These >:|fail >:|> >:|due to >:|> >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. >:|Only >:|> >:|problem >:|> >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to >:|remotely >:|> >:|mount >:|> >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|> >:|powered when >:|> >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|> >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem >:|further >:|> >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom >:|of >:|> >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d >:|try >:|> >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve >:|never >:|> >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the >:|board >:|> >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything. what >:|> >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:| >:|> >:|

Response:

FYI, These are always on EBAY. Need to get some myself soon. Chris http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=337…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? > > Snowman > Maybe the headlight switch itself? > Doc > > > Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > > > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > > > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > > > Fronts are o.k. > > > Right turn signal stopped working. > > > Left still works. > > > Hazards stopped working. > > > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > > > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > > > Thank for any suggestions, > > > Mike > What I don’t understand is, because it’s the running lights that are > on, where are they getting power with the headlamp switch off? > I know it’s not the switch because the front parking lamps turn off > with the switch and when you pull the fuse, but the rears stay on! > It’s like a power wire to the rear lights is shorted to another power > wire that’s always hot? > The only one I can think of is the orange wire in the trailer plug > that’s always hot to charge the auxiliary battery in the trailer to > power the electric brakes in the event of a disconnect. > As someone mentioned, it must be in the trailer plug. > I’ll let you all know what I find out. > Thanks for all the replies, > Mike

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? > Snowman > Maybe the headlight switch itself? > Doc > > Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > > Fronts are o.k. > > Right turn signal stopped working. > > Left still works. > > Hazards stopped working. > > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > > Thank for any suggestions, > > Mike

What I don’t understand is, because it’s the running lights that are on, where are they getting power with the headlamp switch off? I know it’s not the switch because the front parking lamps turn off with the switch and when you pull the fuse, but the rears stay on! It’s like a power wire to the rear lights is shorted to another power wire that’s always hot? The only one I can think of is the orange wire in the trailer plug that’s always hot to charge the auxiliary battery in the trailer to power the electric brakes in the event of a disconnect. As someone mentioned, it must be in the trailer plug. I’ll let you all know what I find out. Thanks for all the replies, Mike

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >:|>  is >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> > >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> > >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. >:|> >:|> Doc >:| >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|would be more than enough. >:| >:|~TLGM

the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. -Bret

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to > > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >  is > > there about $50.00 > > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount > > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. > > ~KJ~ > Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when > the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit. If > they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. > Doc > I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of > these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try > to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never > seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board > would be more than enough. > ~TLGM

Heat isn’t what kills them; it’s corrosion.  Seperating the bulbs from the boards won’t solve anything. Doc

Response:

> brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? > Snowman

Maybe the headlight switch itself? Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

Response:

I don’t think many car manufacturers used twist in bulbs since 87! Chrysler, Ford nor GM! That plastic push in type is here to stay!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >:|>  is >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> > >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> > >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. >:|> >:|> Doc >:| >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|would be more than enough. >:| >:|~TLGM > the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring > connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what > GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb > holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. > -Bret

Response:

So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I mean, if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >:|>  is >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> > >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> > >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. >:|> >:|> Doc >:| >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|would be more than enough. >:| >:|~TLGM > the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring > connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what > GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb > holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. > -Bret

Response:

> Heat isn’t what kills them; it’s corrosion.  Seperating the bulbs from the > boards won’t solve anything. > Doc

Ah, I was always under the impression that it was a heat thing. Thanks for the info! ~KJ~

Response:

>:|I don’t think many car manufacturers used twist in bulbs since 87! >:| >:|Chrysler, Ford nor GM! >:| >:|That plastic push in type is here to stay! >:|

I’m not talking about twist in bulbs, I’m talking about the bulb *HOLDERS* that twist into the light housing.  somewhere along the line GM changed the bulb type in the 88-98 trucks to the push in type, unfortunately it didn’t help with the corrosion problem. -Bret

Response:

>:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I mean, >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:| >:|~KJ~

you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. -Bret – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:| >:|> >:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail >:|due to >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only >:|problem >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely >:|mount >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|powered when >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:| >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem >  is > there about $50.00 > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. > ~KJ~ > Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when > the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If > they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. > Doc

I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board would be more than enough. ~TLGM

Response:

>:|I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck….. >:| >:|~KJ~

go look at the 88-98 C/K tail lights and you’ll see the infamous bulb mount board. -Bret – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:| >:|> >:|> >:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. >:|Relocate it >:|> >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I >:|mean, >:|> >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own >:|that >:|> >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. >:|Mayhaps >:|> >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~KJ~ >:|> >:|> you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights >:|> in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to >:|> use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These >:|fail >:|> >:|due to >:|> >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. >:|Only >:|> >:|problem >:|> >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to >:|remotely >:|> >:|mount >:|> >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|> >:|powered when >:|> >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|> >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem >:|further >:|> >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom >:|of >:|> >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d >:|try >:|> >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve >:|never >:|> >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the >:|board >:|> >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:|> >:| >:|> >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what >:|> >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|> >:| >:|> >:|

Response:

I have an 88 S10 that uses lamps just like any other truck….. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|So desolder their connector, or their bulb, and solder on wires. Relocate it >:|somewhere else in the fender. Few things that you can’t make happen. I mean, >:|if the board has NOTHING but traces, fuck the board and make your own that >:|is just a socket. Use a piece of sheet metal to mount the socket in. Mayhaps >:|LED lights? Cool running, very bright, and much faster to light. >:| >:|~KJ~ > you really need to go to a junkyard and take a look at the taillights > in a 88-98 truck.  it’s just not a good design, unless you’re going to > use gold plated wiring, the corrosion problem will continue. > -Bret >:| >:|> >:|> >:|>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:|> >:|> > There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail >:|due to >:|> >:|> > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only >:|problem >:|> >:|>  is >:|> >:|> > there about $50.00 >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely >:|mount >:|> >:|> > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. >:|> >:|> > >:|> >:|> > ~KJ~ >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only >:|powered when >:|> >:|> the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the >:|circuit.  If >:|> >:|> they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further >:|upstream. >:|> >:|> >:|> >:|> Doc >:|> >:| >:|> >:|I could have sworn that lights that didn’t go out were the symptom of >:|> >:|these boards? Again for my $0.02 if I knew I had these boards I’d try >:|> >:|to relocate the board and just have the bulb back there. I’ve never >:|> >:|seen them but I’d guess even 3 inches between the bulb and the board >:|> >:|would be more than enough. >:|> >:| >:|> >:|~TLGM >:|> >:|> the board is nothing more than a bunch of traces from a wiring >:|> connector to the bulb sockets.  moving it won’t help anything.  what >:|> GM should have done in the first place was to use twist in bulb >:|> holders like everyone else on the frigging planet. >:|> >:|> -Bret >:|

Response:

Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. Fronts are o.k. Right turn signal stopped working. Left still works. Hazards stopped working. When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. Thank for any suggestions, Mike

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There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem is there about $50.00 Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. ~KJ~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

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> There are boards in the back that the lights plug into. These fail due to > the heat of the bulb. Change ‘em out and you should be fine. Only problem is > there about $50.00 > Personally if it was me, I think I’d try to find a way to remotely mount > those boards so the heat from the lamp couldn’t hurt ‘em. > ~KJ~

Only problem is, the boards aren’t "always hot."  They are only powered when the brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc. completes the circuit.  If they are remaining on all the time, it’s likely a problem further upstream. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

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brake light switch sounds most reasonable to me? Snowman

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

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Check your trailer wiring. Les – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Weirdest thing, my tail lights are stuck on! > 95′ GMC Sierra XLT. > Removed parking lamp fuse and lights are still on. > Fronts are o.k. > Right turn signal stopped working. > Left still works. > Hazards stopped working. > When you turn on right turn signal, left parking lamp goes out!?!??? > Haven’t done a thing, just started out of the blue. > Thank for any suggestions, > Mike

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